TRAVELERS'   HANDBOOK 

TO 
SOUTHERN    CALIFORNIA 


Travelers'  Handbook 

TO 

Southern   California 


BY 


George  Wharton  James. 


Author  of    In    and  Around  the    Grand    Canyon   of  the   Colorado  River  in 

Arizona  ;  Old  Missions  and  Mission  Indians  of  California  ;  Indian 

Basketry  :  How  to  Make  Indian  and  Other  Baskets  ; 

Scenic  Mount  Lowe  ;    The  Indians  of  the 

Painted  Desert  Region,  etc.,  etc. 


PUBLISHED   ANNUALLY. 


1904. 

George   Wharton   James, 

Pasadena,  California, 

who  will  gladly  receive  suggestions  for  future  editions. 


By  George  Wharton  James. 


IN     AND     AROUND    THE     GRAND    CANYON    OF    THE 
COLORADO    RIVER     IN     ARIZONA. 

Third  Edition.     346  paRCs.     Cloth,   8vo. 
One  Hundred  Illustrations. 

$2.50  net.     Postage  30c.  extra. 


THE     INDIANS    OF    THE    PAINTED    DESERT    REGION. 
Second  Edition.     268  pages.     Cloth,  Svo. 
Seventy  Illustrations. 

$2.00  Net.     Postage  25c.  ejrtra. 


INDIAN    BASKETRY. 

Third  Edition.     Over  400  pages.     Upwards  of    600 
Illustrations.     Cloth,  Svo. 

$2.50  net.     Postage  25c.  extra. 


HOW    TO   MAKE   INDIAN   AND   OTHER    BASKETS. 
Second  Edition.     t40  pages.     Cloth,  Svo. 
220  Illustrations. 

$1.00  net.    Postage   J  2c.  extra. 


THE    OLD    MISSIONS    AND    MISSION    INDIANS    OF 
CALIFORNIA. 

First  Edition  exhausted. 

Second  Edition  now  in  preparation. 


TRAVELERS'  HANDBOOK  TO  SOUTHERN  CALIFORNIA 
Second  Edition.     Cloth,   l6mo.     For  the  pocket. 
400  pages.     Many  Illustrations. 

75c.     Postage   JOc.  extra. 


THESE  PAGES  ARE  CORDIALLY  DEDICATED  TO 

JAMES  HORSBURGH,  Jr., 

AsstsTANT  General  Passenger  Agent  of  the 
Southern  Pacific  Company, 

THE  CREATOR  OF  THE   SUNSET"  MAGAZINE, 

THAT  INTELLIGENT  ADVERTISER  OF  CALIFORNIA, 
WHO  HAS  DONE  MORE  THAN  ANY  OTHER  MAN  TO 
MAKE  THE  RESOURCES  OF  THE  GOLDEN  STATE 
KNOWN,  AND  WITHOUT  WHOSE  KINDLY  ASSIST- 
ANCE—DIRECT AND  INDIRECT-THIS  BOOK  WOULD 
NEVER    HAVE    BEEN   COMPILED   BY  THIS  AUTHOR. 


4933^6 

LIERARi 


(  : 


/    o 


INTRODUCTION. 


It  is  natural  that  one  should  love  the  land  of  his  birth, 
and  reasons  could  be  found  which  would  satisfactorily 
account  for  the  wild  Arab's  love  of  the  trackless  desert,  or 
the  Laplander's  affection  for  the  land  of  eternal  snow. 
But  it  is  not  "vain  boasting"  that  leads  the  Southern 
Californian  to  express  in  glowing  terms  his  love  for  his 
chosen  home.  Elsewhere  it  might  be  the  "exaggeration  of 
vanity."  Here  it  is  the  most  charming  statement  of 
existent  facts.  Take  all  the  charming  features  enlarged 
upon  by  the  most  enthusiastic  lover  of  his  own  land  and 
see  how  few  of  them  are  lacking  here. 

There  are  sapphire  skies  over-arching  orange  and  lemon 
groves,  with  a  climate  all-the-year-round  not  dreamed  of 
elsewhere, — equable,  winter  and  summer,  where  July  is  as 
agreeable  as  December,  March  as  September.  Twenty 
miles  and  more  off-shore  are  isles  verdant,  rich,  beautiful 
and  historic,  and  in  scores  of  valleys  and  on  hundreds  of 
hill  slopes  are  emerald  green  fields,  where,  occasionally, 
nestle  lakes,  pure,  clear,  quiet,  in  marked  contrast  to  the 
hurling,  whirling,  dashing  cataracts  and  torrents  of  the 
Colorado  River,  which  marks  our  Eastern  boundary. 
Thousands  of  rocky  recesses  in  gigantic  mountains,  over- 
looked by  towering  peaks,  invite  the  stalwart  wanderer, 
and,  in  solitary  sublimity  and  awc-insiring  majesty,  a 
score  of  snow-clad  peaks  thrills  the  heart  of  the  adven- 
turous climber. 

Hence  we  love  our  "Land  of  the  Sun-Down  Sea"  with  a 
passionate  devotion  few  other  countries  call  forth  from 
their  children.  She  appeals  to  our  affection  on  all  sides, 
and  touches  our  lives  at  every  possible  angle. 

To  the  enjoyment  of  a  visit  to  this  highly  favored 
region,  the  Travelers'  Handbook  is  indispensable.  Thous- 
ands of  visitors  regret,  when  it  is  too  late,  that  they  had 
not  known  of  the  existence  of  this,  that  and  the  other 
place,  for  they  would  assuredly  have  visited  them.     With 


8 

lliis  honk  in  liaiul  the  intelligent  tourist  will  never  he  at  a 
loss  to  choose  his  ohjectivc  point,  and  tiic  information 
therein  given  will  make  all  the  difference  between  a  mean- 
ingless visit  to  a  meaningless  place,  and  an  intelligent 
survey  of  a  place  full  of  historic  and  interesting  memories. 
The  traveler,  driven  for  time,  will  here  gather  in  graphic, 
compact  and  accurate  form,  glimpses  of  what  he  might 
have  seen,  while  the  careful  and  leisurely  traveler  will 
possess  in  this  work  a  vivid  memorandum  of  the  scenic 
impressions  he  has  enjoyed.  Many  hitherto  obscure  nooks 
will  he  brought  to  light;  fact  will  be  disentangled  from 
fiction,  and  the  virtues  of  tlic  country  set  forth  without 
exaggeration. 

To  achieve  this  comprehensive  work  with  fidelity,  accur- 
acy and  due  proportion,  the  author  has  spent  many  years 
in  a  careful  study  of  the  land  and  its  peculiar  charms. 
Most  of  the  descriptions  have  been  written  on  the  spot, 
and  arc  records  of  actual  impressions  received  at  the  time. 
He  has  earnestly  and  sincereh'  sought  to  make  his  small 
and  unpretentious  volume  an  encj'clopedia  of  information 
on  the  beautiful,  the  productive,  the  Southern  half  of  the 
State  of  California,  which,  awakened  from  its  century  of 
primitive  and  poetic  development,  has  entered  into  new  life 
and  broader  activities  than  the  founders  ever  saw,  even 
in  their  dreams. 

I  liavc  invariably  given  the  old  Spanish  names  to  the 
mountains,  valleys,  etc.,  to  the  exclusion  of  the  latter,  and, 
often,  ugly  names.  All  those  who  enjoy  the  suggestions 
of  romance  these  poetic  and  rich  old  Spanish  names  afford, 
will  surely  aid  in  the  effort  to  banish  forever  such  names 
as  "Baldy,"  "Grayback,"  "Smith's  Mountain,"  and  the  like. 
1  have  also  anglicized,  as  many  thoughtful  scholars  are 
now  doing,  the  spelling  of  the  word  "canon"  and  made  it 
"canyon."  Why  burden  our  already  over-burdened  lan- 
guage with  a  foreign  accent  which  we  can  do  without? 

George  Whartot  J.\mes. 


St>t>  fTfnfcoJe 

San  Fernando  Mission, 

CHAPTER   I. 

SOUTHERN   CALIFORNIA. 

Boundaries. — If  it  were  possible  for  an  adventurous  and 
curious  traveler  to  anchor  a  balloon  at  such  a  height  and 
in  such  a  position  as  to  afford  him  a  complete  view  of  that 
section  of  California  comprised  between  latitudes  36°  and 
32°,  and  extending,  somewhat  irregularly,  from  longitudes 
122^  W.  to  114°  W.,  he  would  therein  find  what  not  inap- 
propriately has  been  termed  "the  Switzerland-Italy  of 
America."  It  is  the  region  that  is  generally  known  as 
Southern  California.  It  embraces  the  seven  counties  of 
Ventura,  Santa  Barbara,  Los  Angeles,  Orange,  River- 
side, San  Bernardino  and  San  Diego. 

From  our 'elevated  point  of  vantage  let  us  together  take 
a  cursory  survey  of  this  wonderful  land.  Its  boundaries 
first  an-est  our  attention.  On  the  land  side  there  is  an 
immense  desert  region,  including  almost  the  entirety  of  the 
Colorado  and  Mohave  deserts,  lined  on  the  cast  by  the 
Colorado  River,  and  on  the  other  side  by  the  pearly  faced, 
peaceful  Pacific  Ocean,  dotted  with  several  beautiful  is- 
lands. North  of  this  section  are  the  counties  of  San  Luis 
Obispo,  Kern,  Monterey,  Tulare  and  Inyo,  and  below, 
Baja  California,  a  territory  of  the  Republic  of  Mexico. 
I'he  shore  line  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  trends  from  the  north- 
west to  the  southeast,  and  on  the  desert  side  the  boundary 
line    between    Southern    California    and    Nevada    follows 


soiiicwliat  the  same  direction,  and  then  joins  the  Colorad') 
River,  wliicli  becomes  the  line  between  Soiitliern  California 
and  Arizona  in  a  deflected  direction  of  southwest. 

This  irregular  region,  so  singularly  bounded,  has  within 
its  confines  lofty  snow-capped  mountains,  beautiful,  ver- 
dant valleys,  placid,  silvery  lakes,  interesting,  curious  rivers, 
and  all  the  other  necessary  topographical  features  to  stamp 
at  once,  upon  our  minds,  the  thought  that  it  is  a  land  of 
perpetual  charm  and  irresistible  attraction. 

The  area  covered  by  these  seven  counties  is  about  50,000 
square  miles.  Many  important  Eastern  States  are  much 
smaller  than  this  territory,  and  England  and  Wales  com- 
bined or  Ireland  and  Scotland  could  be  comfortably  housed 
within  its  borders  with  considerable  room  to  spare. 

The  Use  of  the  Term  Southern  California. — There  is  no 
Southern  California.  True  Californians  are  too  proud  of 
their  great,  grand,  glorious  State  to  seek  for  or  desire  its 
partition.  It  is  one,  united  and  indivisible,  or,  at  least,  let 
us  hope  so.  But  common  parlance  has  coined  the  expres- 
sion and  geographical  and  climatic  conditions  demand  its 
perpetuation  as  a  cognomen  of  distinction.  It  is  found  that 
below  the  Tehachipi  range  of  mountains  peculiar  climatic 
conditions  exist;  the  coast  current  from  the  North  being 
deflected  at  Point  Concepcion  and  the  warm  current  from 
the  South  being  drawn  up  into  the  sea  area  thus  untouched 
by  the  colder  waters ;  there  being  no  coast  range  of  moun- 
tains to  prevent  the  easy  flow  of  gentle,  sea-warmed  breezes 
coming  over  the  land ;  the  existence  of  vast  mountain 
ranges  on  whose  towering  summits  snow  is  generally  to  be 
found  throughout  the  year,  and  yet  on  whose  eastern  bases 
are  the  wide  expanses  of  the  Mohave  and  Colorado 
Deserts;  these  and  several  other  topographical  features 
combine  to  produce  unique  conditions  of  climate  which 
differentiate  Southern   California  not  only  from  all  other 


parts  of  the  State,  but  from  almost  every  other  region  of 
the  known  world.     Hence  the  name  Southern  California. 

The  Pacific  Ocean  forms  its  western  and  southwestern 
boundary. 

Beginning  at  the  extreme  north,  the  coast  line  trends 
almost  due  south  until  it  reaches  the  boundary  line  of 
Southern  California  at  Point  Concepcion,  which  is  also  its 
western  limit.  Here  it  makes  a  sudden  and  deep  curve 
eastward  and  southward  for  214  miles,  to  the  Mexican 
boundary  on  the  seashore  below  San  Diego.  This  eastern 
indentation  leaves  a  favored  region,  with  a  southern  ex- 
posure to  the  sunny  Pacific  and  frees  it  from  the  fierce 
northern  winds.  All  along  this  southern  coast  line  the 
waters  of  the  Pacific  are  warmer  both  winter  and  summer, 
by  nearly  ten  degrees  than  those  which  touch  the  coast 
further  north.  This  is  owing  to  the  deflection  off  Point 
Concepcion  by  a  submarine  mountain  chain  (of  which  the 
Channel  Islands  are  the  crest),  of  the  Kuro  Siwo,  the 
Japan  Current,  which,  bringing  its  warm  waters  into  the 
Northern  Pacific,  is  cooled  by  contact  with  the  great  cir- 
cular drift-current  of  that  portion  of  the  ocean.  Flowing 
then  southward  on  its  return  to  the  Japanese  Coast,  it  is 
deflected  at  the  point  named,  and  thus  causes  a  suction. 
This  draws  the  warm  waters  of  the  South  Pacific  Ocean 
up  the  shores  of  Southern  California  and  within  the  chan- 
nel formed  by  the  belt  of  islands  beginning  with  Los 
Coronados  off  the  coast  of  Mexico  on  the  south,  termi- 
nating in  the  Santa  Barbara  group  on  the  north.  Thus 
thrust  out,  by  the  submarine  hills,  the  cold  California 
current  flows  one  hundred  miles  westward  from  the  main- 
land of  Southern  California; — too  far  away  to  materially 
affect,  in  winter,  the  warmth  of  the  near  shore  current; 
and  yet  near  enough  in  summer  to  temper  the  hot  air, 
which,  rising  from  the  deserts  forming  the   eastern  boun- 


fl.ny,  fl<iat  over  to  this  cold  current,  fall,  and  again  return 
in  a  cool  brcc/c  to  the  land. 

J  he  ranges  of  mountains  wliicii  extend  from  Point  Con- 
cepcion  eastward  to  the  Colorado  Desert,  form  tlic  northern 
boundary.  These  mountains  belong  to  the  Coast  and  the 
Sierra  Nevada  groups,  which  here  seem  to  curve,  unite 
and  break  away  again  in  small  detached  ranges.  The 
Spaniards  gave  them  separate  names;  near  Santa  Barbara 
is  the  Sierra  Santa  Ynez ;  at  Santa  Monica  the  Sierra 
Santa  Monica;  over  the  San  Fernando  Valley  the  Sierra 
San  Fernando  and  the  Verdugo;  above  Pasadena,  the 
Sierra  Madre  and  the  San  Gabriel ;  to  the  southeast  of 
San  Bernardino,  the  Sierra  San  Bernardmo.  On  the  maps 
they  are  marked  together  as  the  San  Bernardino  Range, 
dominated  by  the  highest  and  noblest  summit  this  side  of 
Shasta,  the  Mount  San  Gorgonio. 

The  other  mountain  ranges  in  Southern  California  are 
the  Sierra  Santa  Ana,  the  chief  peak  of  which  is  Santiago, 
to  the  cast  of  Los  Angeles  and  overlooking  the  Santa  Ana 
\'alley,  which  by  many  is  regarded  as  an  offshoot  of  the 
San  Gabriel  Valley;  further  to  the  south  and  north,  run- 
ning down  into  San  Diego  County,  the  Sierra  San  Jacinto 
range,  whilst  overlooking  San  Diego  are  the  mountains  of 
Santa  Ysabel. 

These  encircling  mountains  shelter  the  land  from  tlie 
cold  breezes,  which,  at  times,  come  sweeping  down  from  the 
North.  On  the  North  and  East  they  also  act  as  a  shield 
from  the  heated  air  which  arises  from  the  Mohave  and 
Colorado  deserts.  These  are  in  reality  one  desert,  naturally 
cut  in  two,  near  the  center  by  a  "long  low  range  of  wavy 
hills,  bare,  dry  and  inexpressibly  barren."  The  northern 
portion — larger  than  Massachusetts — is  the  Mohave  Desert; 
the  southern  portion,  nearly  as  large,  is  the  Colorado  Des- 
ert.    Nowhere  else   in  the  United  States  can  one  so  well 


13 

understand  to  the  full  the  meaning  of  the  word  "desert," 
as  when  he  gazes  upon  these  vast  stretches  of  bare,  barren, 
fiery  sand. 

Now,  strange  though  it  may  seem  to  the  uninitiated,  it  is 
to  these  diverse,  and  apparently  adverse,  features  in  our 
environment  that  our  delighful  summer  and  winter  climate 
are  due,  as  I  shall  show  more  fully  in  the  chapter  on  cli- 
mate. 

The  Nezv  Promised  Land. — Within  these  boundaries,  as 
has  been  well  stated  by  Mr.  Harry  Ellington  Brook,  "va- 
riety is  one  of  the  noteworthy  features.  Outside  of  the 
Colorado  and  Mohave  deserts  there  is  not  one  dull,  mon- 
otonous plain.  It  is  a  succession  of  mesas  and  valleys,  each 
possessing  distinctive  features  of  soil  and  climate,  shut  oflE 
from  each  other  by  rolling  hills,  dotted  with  oak  and  wal- 
nut, and  backed  by  the  majestic  Sierra,  pine-clad  toward 
the  summits,  and  occasionally  snow-capped  in  winter,  when 
the  oranges  are  ripening  and  the  heliotrope  is  blossoming 
in  the  valleys  below,  while  from  the  foot  of  the  snow-clad 
mountains  to  the  sea-shore  is  but  a  couple  of  hours'  jour- 
ney. 

"Thus  is  Southern  California  distinguished  as  a  land 
peculiarly  favored  by  nature,  a  fitting  counterpart  of  the 
Promised  Land  as  it  was  ere  the  deserts  were  allowed  to 
encroach  upon  its  fertile  plains.  In  fact,  Southern  Cali- 
fornia is  very  like  Palestine  in  natural  features,  resembling 
that  country  far  more  than  it  does  Italy,  to  which  it  is  so 
often  compared.  Like  Palestine,  it  is  a  comparatively  nar- 
row strip  of  land  facing  a  western  sea ;  it  is  shut  off  from 
interior  deserts  by  high  mountains,  snow-capped  in  winter; 
it  has  its  dry  and  wet  seasons ;  it  is  a  land  'flowing  with 
milk  and  honey,'  and  in  both  countries  flourish  the  olive, 
the  fig,  and  the  vine,  the  grapes  of  Eschcol,  which  excited 


T4 

llic  wonder  of  the  Israelites,  finding  tlicir  counterpart  at 
any  of  our  horticultural  shows. 

"Along  the  coast  from  Point  Sal  to  the  Mexican  line, 
and  extending  on  an  average  about  forty  miles  from  the 
ocean,  lie  some  10,000  square  miles  of  land  which,  on  the 
ttnbiased  testimony  of  a  multitude  of  experienced  travelers, 
is  superior  in  climate,  soil,  and  attractiveness  of  surround- 
ings to  any  other  section  of  similar  expanse  on  the  face  of 
the  globe." 


— --^ .^.J^A— »>:.■>_•  V"      ■    -^^^^ 


A  Mexican  House  of  Adobe. 


CHAPTER  II. 

GENERAL   HISTORY   OF   SOUTHERN   CALIFORNIA. 

Four  words  alone  suggest  its  histor}- — Indian,  Spaniard, 
Franciscan,  American. 

A  brief  survey  of  each  of  tliese  periods  will,  necessarily, 
be  of  interest  to  the  intelligent  traveler. 

Aboriginal  Period. — Of  the  Aboriginal  history  but  little 
is  known.  There  are  many  conflicting  reports  about  the 
primitive  people.  Vizcaino  says  he  found  the  land  "thickly 
settled  with  people  who  were  of  gentle  disposition,  peace- 
able and  docile,  and  who  can  be  brought  readily  within  the 
fold  of  the  holy  gospel  and  into  subjection  to  the  Crown 
of  Your  Majesty.  Their  food  consists  of  seeds  which  they 
have  in  abundance  and  variety,  and  of  the  flesh  of  game, 
such  as  deer  which  are  larger  than  cows,  and  bear,  and  of 
neat  cattle  and  bisons  and  many  other  animals.  The  In- 
dians are  of  good  stature  and  fair  complexion,  the  women 
being  somewhat  less  in  size  than  the  men  and  of  pleasing 
countenance.  The  clothing  of  the  people  of  the  coast- 
lands  consists  of  the  skins  of  the  sea-wolves  abounding 
there,  which  they  tan  and  dress  better  than  is  done  in 
Castile.  *  *  *  They  have  vessels  of  pine  wood  very 
well  made,  in  which  they  go  to  sea  with  fourteen  paddle- 
men  on  a  side,  with  great  dexterity — even  in  very  stormy 
weather.  I  was  informed  by  them,  and  by  many  others  I 
met  with  in  great  numbers  along  more  than  eight  hundred 
leagues  of  a  thickly  settled  coast,  that  inland  there  are 
great  communities,  which  they  invited  me  to  visit  with 
them.  They  manifested  great  friendship  for  us  and  a 
desire  for  intercourse;  were  well  affected  toward  the  image 


i6 

of  Our  T.ady  wliicli  T  sliowcd  to  them,  and  very  attcnli' 
to  liic  sacrifice  of  the  mass.  They  worship  difTrrcnt  idols, 
and  they  are  well  acquainted  with  silver  and  gold,  and  said 
that  these  were  found  in  the  interior." 

But  George  Butler  Griffin,  the  translator  of  this  and 
other  letters  of  Vizcaino,  says  in  a  foot-note  that  "Vizcai- 
no's letters,  generally,  are  full  of  exaggerated  statements 
and  falsehoods,  and  in  this  letter  he  gives  his  fancy  a  slack 
rein.  :!=  *  *  y\t  t|,g  (j^g  Qf  j^jg  yjgij;  many  of  the  beasts 
and  plants  he  mentions  did  not  exist,  nor  had  they  ever 
existed,  in  California;  nor  did  he  meet  with  any  natives 
such  as  he  describes." 

A  brief  chapter  on  the  Indians  will  be  found  in  later 
pages. 

Disco7'cry  by  the  Spaniards. — The  period  of  discovery  is 
interesting  to  the  student,  but  can  be  presented  only  briefly 
here.  Juan  Rodriguez  Cabrillo,  a  Portuguese  navigator, 
whose  services  had  been  secured  by  the  Spaniards,  brave 
and  skilful,  yet  of  whom  little  but  his  California  expedi- 
tion is  known,  came  exploring  the  Pacific  Coast  northward, 
with  two  vessels,  in  1542-3,  and,  entering  "a  Irnd-locked 
and  very  good  harbor,"  named  it  San  Miguel.  There  is  no 
doubt  from  his  descriptions,  but  that  this  was  the 
bay  now  known  as  San  Diego,  and  that  the  date  of  his 
entry  was  in  September,  1542.    Here  he  remained  six  days. 

"The  natives  were  timid  in  their  intercourse  with  the 
strangers  whom  they  called  Guaccunal.  but  they  wounded 
with  their  arn^ws  those  of  a  party  that  landed  at  night  to 
fish.  Interviews,  voluntary  and  enforced,  were  held  with 
a  few  individuals  both  on  shore  and  on  the  ships;  and  the 
Spaniards  understood  by  their  signs  that  the  natives  had 
seen  or  heard  of  men  like  themselves,  bearded,  mounted 
and  armed,  somewhere  in  the  interior.  It  is  not  impos- 
sible, though  not  improbable,  that  the  natives  had  heard  of 


17 

Diaz,  Alarcon,  and  Ulloa  at  the  head  of  the  gulf.  The 
Indians  of  San  Diego  are  described  'as  well  formed,  of 
large  size  and  clothed  in  skins.'  " 

On  October  3,  Cabrillo  sailed  out  of  San  Diego  Bay  and 
continued  his  voyage  north,  but,  being  badly  equipped 
against  the  storms  he  doubtless  met  there,  and  too  anxious 
about  the  welfare  of  his  expedition,  he  sickened,  died  and 
was  buried  on  one  of  the  Santa  Barbara  group  of  islands, 
generally  supposed  to  be  San  Miguel. 

Southern  California  was  next  visited  by  Sir  Francis 
Drake,  the  brave  and  bold  British  explorer,  buccaneer  or 
pirate  (whichever  the  reader  may  like,  according  to  wheth- 
er he  is  English,  Spanish  or  American),  whose  chief  glory 
seemed  to  be  in  harassing  the  commerce  of  Spain  and  cap- 
turing her  heavily  laden  galleons  whenever  possible.  He 
named  the  country  New  Albion. 

In  1595  Sebastian  Rodriguez  de  Cermenon  visited  the 
Coast. 

Vizcaino's  Expeditions. — Soon  afterwards  Phillip  III.  of 
Spain,  angered  at  the  report  of  Drake's  naming  of  the 
country  after  his  hated  foe,  England,  and  having  reports 
from  his  Mexican  officials  of  the  land  passed  by  his  fleets 
on  their  way  from  Mexico  to  the  Philippine  Islands,  gave 
orders  to  Don  Luis  de  Velasco,  the  viceroy  of  Mexico,  then 
under  Spanish  dominion,  to  have  the  Coast  line  thoroughly 
explored — "that  a  survey  and  demarcation  of  the  harbors 
to  be  found  on  the  voyage  to  and  from  these  islands  be 
made,  with  a  view  to  the  safety  of  the  ships  which  come 
and  go." 

After  a  good  deal  of  quibbling  and  tedious  waiting,  a 
Portuguese  named  Vizcaino,  with  whom  Velasco  had  long 
been  negotiating,  was  allowed  to  sail.  His  first  trip  was 
up  the  Gulf  of  California,  and  was  not  regarded  as  suc- 
cessful.    His  second  expedition  left   Acapulco  on   Sunda}', 


the  5tli  of  May,  1602,  at  5  o'clock,  lie  had  four  vessels, 
two  ships;  also  a  laitclia  and  abarcoluenno.  On  the  loih 
of  November  he  entered  San  Diego  Bay.  It  is  to  Vizcaino 
we  owe  so  many  of  the  beautiful  and  euphonious  names 
that  designate  various  places  along  the  coast  in  Southern 
California,  as  will  be  seen  from  the  chapter  on  "Place 
Names." 

The  Franciscan  Missionaries. — For  166  years  after  Viz- 
caino a  gap  occurs,  the  Spanish  being  kept  busy  with  their 
troubles  at  home;  until  about  1767,  King  Charles  III.  of 
Spain  ordered  an  expedition  to  sail,  to  take  possession  of 
the  Californias,  convert  the  Indians  found  there,  and  pro- 
tect the  country  from  the  encroachments  of  Russians  from 
the  north,  which  the  latter  then  owned.  Jose  de  Galvez, 
the  visitador  general  of  New  Spain, — a  man  of  great  fore- 
sight and  ability, — to  whom  the  Americans  of  the  Southern 
California  of  to-day  owe  much, — was  the  man  to  whom 
this  important  undertaking  was  intrusted.  The  only  knowl- 
edge of  where  he  was  to  go  was  obtained  from  the  very 
indefinite  "survey"  of  Vizcaino,  "yet  so  closely  was  this 
first  definite  scheme  of  colonization  and  conversion  planned 
that  there  were  orders  to  plant  a  mission  and  garrison 
first  at  San  Diego,  then  at  Monterey,  and  then  one,  half 
way  between,  to  be  called  Buena  Ventura."' 

Shortly  before  this  expedition  was  organized  the  Jesuits, 
who  had  founded  a  number  of  missions  in  Baja  California, 
were  expelled  from  Mexico,  and  their  work  w^as  placed 
under  the  control  of  the  Franciscans,  with  headquarters  at 
the  College  of  San  Fernando,  in  the  City  of  Mexico.  The 
College,  with  a  perspicacity  highly  commendable,  chose 
Padre  Junipcro  Serra  as  the  President  of  these  missions, 
and  when  Galvez  required  of  them  missionaries  to  ac- 
company him  on  his  expedition  north,  Serra's  jurisdiction 
was   extended,  and  he  was  appointed  president   of  all   the 


19 

California  missions,  those  already  in  existence  in  Lower 
California  and  those  to  be  founded  in  Upper  California. 
The  following  chapter  deals  entirely  with  the  work  of 
Serra  and  his  religious  coadjutors.  But  the  work  of 
Galvez  was  so  important  and  far-reaching  in  its  results 
as  to  demand  a  little  enlarging  upon.  He  was  the  prac- 
tical head  of  the  expedition,  ordering  the  taking  with  it  of 
200  head  of  cattle  from  the  northernmost  mission  of  Lower 
California,  and  also  of  a  full  supply  of  all  kinds  of  seeds 
of  vegetables,  grains  and  flowers ;  everything,  in  fact,  that 
grew  in  Old  Spain  he  wished  transplanted  to  New  Spain. 
"It  was  he,  also,  as  full  of  interest  for  chapel  as  for  farm, 
who  selected  and  packed  with  his  own  hands  sacred  orna- 
ments and  vessels  for  church  ceremonies.  A  curious  letter 
of  his  to  Father  Palou  is  extant  in  which  he  says,  laugh 
ingly,  that  he  is  a  better  sacristan  than  Father  Junipero, 
ha\'ing  packed  the  holy  vessels  and  ornaments  quicker  and 
better  than  he." 

This  expedition,  from  a  political  standpoint,  definitely 
placed  California  under  the  rule  of  Spain,  under  which  it 
remained  until  Mexico  declared  her  independence,  in  1822, 
and  made  California  a  portion  of  her  territory.  During 
this  period  of  the  Franciscans,  San  Diego,  Los  Angeles, 
San  Juan  Capistrano,  San  Luis  Rey,  San  Gabriel,  San 
Buenaventura,  San  Luis  Obispo,  San  Fernando,  San  Pedro 
and  Santa  Barbara  pueblos  or  towns  were  all  founded. 

To  the  practical  mind  the  chief  significance,  possibly,  of 
the  founding  of  the  missions  is  that  the  padres  first  began 
the  colonization  of  California.  The  way  they  gathered  the 
Indians  about  them  and  promoted  various  industries  is 
duly  related  in  the  chapter  on  the  Missions. 

Founding  of  Los  Angeles. — In  1781,  August  26,  Philipe 
de  Neve,  Governor  of  California,  authorized  the  founding 
of  the  second  pueblo,  or  town,  in  California, — that  of  Los 


20 

AiiRclcs,  the  first  having  been  founded  in  1777  at  San  Jose. 
On  the  4th  of  September  twelve  adult  males,  all  of  them 
heads  of  families,  met  together  and  formally  founded  fl^-^ 
town.  These  twelve  men  were  named  Lara,  Nevarro, 
Rosas,  Mesa,  Moreno,  Rosas,  Villavicencia,  Banepas,  Rod- 
riguez, Camero,  Quintcro  and  Rodriguez.  Two  were  na- 
tives of  Spain,  one  a  native  of  China,  and  the  other  nine  of 
some  one  of  the  following  places:  Sinaloa,  Sonora  and 
Lower  California.  They  had  all  been  Spanish  soldiers, 
and,  though  now  relieved  from  active  service,  were  still 
in  the  pay  of  the  Spanish  government.  The  town  com- 
prised forty-six  inhabitants  in  all,  twenty  of  them  being 
children  under  ten  j'ears  of  age. 

The  government  of  those  days  was  exceedingly  primitive, 
as  must  also  have  been  the  life  of  the  early  Angelenos. 

As  the  other  pueblos  grew  around  the  missions,  and  set- 
tlers slowly  began  to  come  in,  the  country  slightly  changed 
its  aspect.  The  cattle  and  horses  brought  by  the  padres 
increased  rapidly.  It  was  made  an  offense  to  be  severely 
punished  to  destroy  any  female  of  the  domestic  or  past0r.1l 
animals,  and  the  result  was  the  rapid  stocking  of  the  whole 
country. 

The  Convcrfed  Indians. — Tn  1780,  the  sixteen  padres  of 
California  had  3.000  converts  under  their  control.  In  1800, 
this  number  had  increased  to  13.500.  with  eighteen  missions 
and  forty  padres,  .^nd  when  it  is  remembered  that  of  this 
rude,  ignorant,  useless,  savage  population  the  padres  made 
"silleros  (saddlers),  herreros  (blacksmiths),  sastres  (tail- 
ors), molineros  (millers),  panderos  (bakers),  plateros 
(silversmiths),  toneleros  (coopers),  cargadores  (freight- 
ers), valeros  (candle  makers),  vendemiadores  (vintagers), 
caldereros  (coppersmiths),  zapateros  (shoemakers),  som- 
brereros  (hatters),  comfeleros  de  panocha  (makers  of  pan- 
ocha),   guitarreros    (guitar-makers),   arrieros    (muleteers). 


21 

alcaldes,  mayordomos,  rancheros  (ranchmen),  medicos 
(doctors),  pastores  (shepherds),  cordileros  (ropemakcrs), 
lenadores  (wood-cutters),  pentadores  (painters),  esculores 
(sculptors),  albaniles  (masons),  toreadores  (toreadors), 
acolitos  (acolytes),  canteros  (stonecutters),  sacristanes 
(sacristans),  campaneros  (bellringers),  cocineros  (cooks), 
cantores  (singers),  musicos  (musicians),  cazadores  (hunt- 
ers), jaboneros  (soapmakers),  curtidores  (tanners),  tegi- 
dores  (weavers),  tigeros  (tilemakers),  bordodores  (em- 
broiderers), pescatores  (fishermen),  marineros  (sailors), 
vineteros  (winemakers),  caporales  (corporals),  habra- 
dores  (farmers),  vaqueros  (herders),  llaveros  (turnkeys), 
domadores  (horse-tamers),  barberos  (barbers),  cesteros 
(basket-makers),  and  carpenteros  (carpenters),  with  Eu- 
ropean models,  standards  and  methods,  the  wonder  at  the 
marvellous  power  of  the  padres  grows  into  a  reverence. 

Wood  and  stone  carving,  engraving  of  horn,  inlaying  of 
wood  and  of  iron  with  silver,  leather  work,  the  embossing 
of  shields  and  saddles,  silver  work,  basket  making,  lace 
and  drawn  work,  hair  work,  frescoing,  rude  painting, 
embroidering  in  gold  and  silver  thread,  and  the  making 
of  musical  instruments — all  these  arts  were  gradually  prac- 
ticed under  favorable  conditions  for  developing  individual 
capacity.  Indians  made  in  mortar,  vats  for  the  wine,  foun- 
tains for  the  water,  zanjas  for  irrigation,  the  covering  of 
walls  for  defence.  In  wood  they  carved  statues,  stirrups, 
fonts,  pulpits,  chairs,  benches,  doorways  and  altar-rails. 
They  made  sun-dials  and  the  stocks;  the  varas  de  justica, 
or  sticks  of  justice,  carried  by  the  mayordomos;  the  eposas 
or  manacles  for  refractory  neophytes ;  brands  for  the  tithed 
mission  herds ;  book-covers  and  sandals  for  the  padres ; 
tuna  and  pomegranate  wine;  panocha  for  the  children; 
mail  for  the  soldiers;  biers  for  the  dead." 

I  say,  when  it  is  remembered  that  such  a  host  of  skilled 


wiirkers  and  i)ro(liiccrs  were  developed  Ijy  tlic  sagacious 
training  of  llie  savages  l)y  llic  padres,  California  owes 
nuicli,  in  llie  way  of  its  advancement,  to  these  missionary 
laborers.  Spread  the  glory  of  these  achievements !  Never 
was  there  in  any  land  such  a  record  of  accomplishment  in 
so  brief  a  period. 

Crops  of  from  30,000  lo  75,000  bushels  of  grain,  per  year, 
were  exacted  from  the  soil.  Early  in  the  century  a  con- 
servative estimate  states  there  were  70,000  horses  and  cattle, 
rapidly  increasing.  , 

Independence  of  Mexico. — Under  Spanish  rule  foreigners 
were  forbidden  the  land,  but  one  by  one,  outsiders  began  to 
filter  in,  to  become  assimilated,  and  prepare  the  way  for 
more. 

In  1822,  when  the  independence  of  Mexico  was  pro- 
claimed, a  Mexican  governor  displaced  the  Spanish  gov- 
ernor. Sola,  and  the  first  provincial  legislature  or  disputa- 
cion  was  organized.  The  padres  regarded  this  change  with 
foreboding;  and  by  their  refusal  to  take  the  required  oath 
of  allegiance  to  the  new  government,  laid  the  foundation 
for  the  secularization  and  thus  the  utter  overthrow  of  the 
missions. 

In  1826  Governor  Echeandia  issued  a  decree  for  the 
partial  emancipation  of  the  neophytes  of  San  Diego,  Santa 
Barbara,  and  Monterey,  but  it  was  scarcely  felt  by  any 
except  the  padres,  who  saw  in  it  the  first  stroke  of  their 
doom. 

In  1829  a  revolt  of  some  unpaid  soldiers  at  Monterey, 
assisted  by  some  native  Californians  led  to  a  conflict  at 
Santa  Barbara,  but  this  trouble  was  easily  and  quickly 
quelled. 

Secularisation. — In  1830  Echeandia,  still  pushing  his  sec- 
ularization ideas,  succeeded  in  getting  the  California  legis- 
lature to  pass  an  act,  providing  for  the  gradual  transforma- 


23 

tion  of  the  missions  into  pueblos,  and  for  making  each 
Indian  a  shareholder  in  the  lands  and  cattle.  But  before 
this  plan  could  be  put  in  operation  it  was  necessary  that 
it  be  confirmed  by  the  home  government  in  Mexico,  and 
before  this  could  be  done  Echeandia  was  succeeded  in  the 
Gubernatorial  office  by  Manuel  Victoria,  who  had  for  some 
time  been  governor  of  Lower  California. 

The  padres  welcomed  Victoria  as  an  opponent  of  vSecu- 
larization,  but  his  rule  was  unpopular,  and,  in  1831,  the 
arbitrary  action  of  a  Los  Angeles  alcalde,  who  had  im- 
prisoned some  of  the  influential  citizens  of  that  city,  was 
made  the  cause  for  a  popular  uprising.  The  claim  was 
made  that  Victoria  was  the  inspiration  of  the  illegal  acts 
of  his  alcalde.  Li  the  latter  part  of  November,  the  Gov- 
ernor, with  but  a  small  escort,  left  Monterey  for  the  South. 
"On  the  5th  of  December,  1831,  the  people  of  Los  Angeles, 
having  liberated  those  who  had  been  imprisoned  by  the 
alcalde,  and  made  a  prisoner  of  the  latter,  armed  them- 
selves and  sallied  forth  to  meet  and  oppose  General  Vic- 
toria. He  was  met  a  few  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  when  a 
conflict  ensued,  in  which  one  of  his  officers.  Captain  R. 
Pacheco — the  father  of  Ex-Governor  Pachcco — and  one  of 
the  attacking  party,  Don  Jose  Maria  Abila,  of  Los  Angeles, 
were  killed.  The  General,  leaving  Los  Angeles  to  his 
right,  repaired  to  the  San  Gabriel  Mission,  where  on  the 
following  day  he  surrendered  up  his  authority  to  the  in- 
surgents, who  sent  him  to  San  Diego,  from  which  place  he 
shortly  after  embarked  for  the  coast  of  Mexico. 

"For  some  time  after  the  expulsion  of  General  Victoria, 
Los  Angeles  was  the  seat  of  government  of  those  who 
expelled  him.  The  head  of  the  government  was  General 
Jose  Maria  Echandia,  who  had  been  the  predecessor  of 
Victoria.  His  jurisdiction,  however,  only  extended  over 
the    southern    part    of   the    territory.      The    people    of    the 


24 

iKPilliciii  i)()rli()ii  adlicrcd  to  tlic  government  of  General 
Victoria,  and  sustained,  as  tlie  riKhlfuI  head  of  tlic  civil 
and  military  government  of  California,  Captain  Agustin  V. 
Zamorano,  the  military  officer  next  in  rank  to  the  General. 
This  division  was  not  healed  until  General  Jose  Figueroa 
reached  California  in  1833." 

Governor  Pigucroa. — Figueroa  was  an  able  man  and  a 
good  governor,  and  Los  Angeles  has  honored  him  and 
itself  also,  by  naming  one  of  its  most  beautiful  streets 
after  him. 

Though  himself  a  conservative  man,  and  opposed  to  any- 
thing more  than  the  gradual  emancipation  of  the  neophytes 
of  the  missions,  the  dread  order  of  secularization,  so  long 
feared  by  the  padres,  was  passed  by  the  Mexican  Congress 
August  17,  1833. 

A  brief  statement  here  of  the  material  condition  of  the 
missions  will  not  be  out  of  place,  together  with  vivid  pic- 
tures by  eye  witnesses  of  methods  of  conducting  business 
at  the  missions,  both  before  and  after  the  secularization.  I 
quote  now  from  James  Steele's  "Old  California  Days." 
"Seven  hundred  thousand  cattle  grazed  on  the  mission 
pastures,  with  sixty  thousand  horses  and  an  immense  num- 
ber of  other  domestic  animals. 

"A  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  bushels  of  wheat  were 
raised  annually,  besides  other  crops. 

"The  usual  products  came  under  the  following  heads : 
wheat,  wine,  brandj',  soap,  leather,  hides,  wool,  oil,  cotton, 
hemp,  linen,  tobacco,  salt,  soda. 

"Two  hundred  thousand  head  of  cattle  were  slaughtered 
annually,  at  a  net  profit  of  ten  dollars  each. 

"Gardens,  vineyards  and  orchards  surrounded  or  were 
contiguous  to  all  the  missions  except  the  two  most  northern 
ones.    *    *    * 

"The   total   average  annual  gains  of  the  missions   from 


25 

sales  and  trade  generally  were  more  than  two  million 
dollars.  This,  on  an  uninhabited  and  distant  coast  where 
commerce,  in  our  sense,  was  unknown. 

"The  value  of  the  live  stock  alone,  was,  in  1834,  two 
millions  of  dollars." 

William  Heath  Davis  says :  "The  missions  exacted  from 
the  cattle  owners  as  contribution,  known  as  dieznio,  for  the 
support  and  benefit  of  the  clergy,  and  for  the  expense  of 
the  missions,  one-tenth  of  the  increase  of  the  cattle.  Tlie 
tax  was  not  imposed  by  the  general  government,  but  was 
solely  an  ecclesiastical  matter,  diligently  collected  by  the 
clergy  of  the  different  missions,  and  religiously  contrib- 
uted by  the  rancheros." 

Dana's  Pictures. — Dana,  in  his  "Two  Years  Before  the 
Mast,"  draws  a  number  of  fascinating  pictures  of  the  state 
of  the  country  in  the  years  1835-6.  Of  Santa  Barbara  he 
says : 

"The  town  lies  a  little  nearer  to  the  beach,  about  half  a 
mile  from  it,  and  is  composed  of  one-story  houses,  built 
of  sun-dried  clay,  or  adobe,  some  of  them  whitewashed, 
with  red  tiles  on  the  roofs.  I  should  judge  that  there  were 
about  a  hundred  of  them;  and  in  the  midst  of  them  stands 
the  Presidio,  or  fort,  built  of  the  same  materials,  and  ap- 
parently but  little  stronger.  The  town  is  finely  situated, 
with  a  bay  in  front  and  an  amphitheater  of  hills  behind. 
The  only  thing  which  diminishes  its  beauty  is  that  the  hills 
have  no  large  trees  upon  them,  they  having  been  all  burnt 
by  a  great  fire  which  swept  them  off  about  a  dozen  years 
ago,  and  they  had  not  yet  grown  again.  The  fire  was 
descriGcd  to  me  by  an  inhabitant,  as  having  been  a  very 
terrible  and  magnificent  sight.  The  air  of  the  whole  valley 
was  so  heated  that  the  people  were  obliged  to  leave  the 
town  and  take  up  their  quarters  for  several  days  upon  the 
beach." 


2G 

In  Ill's  oli.iptcr  on  San  Diipo  In-  thus  f|cscrilx:s  a  portion 
of  one  of  liis  Suiul.iys  : 

Indian  Gauics. — "Tlic  Indians,  wlio  always  Iiavc  a  lioli 
day  on  Sunday,  were  engaged  at  playing  a  kind  of  running 
game  of  ball,  on  a  level  piece  of  ground,  near  the  houses. 
The  old  ones  sat  down  in  a  ring,  looking  on,  while  the 
young  ones — men,  boys  and  girls — were  chasing  the  ball, 
and  throwing  it  with  ail  their  might.  Some  of  the  girls 
ran  like  greyhounds.  At  every  accident,  or  remarkable 
feat,  the  old  people  set  up  a  deafening  screaming  and  clap- 
ping of  hands.  Several  bluejackets  were  reeling  about 
among  the  houses,  which  showed  that  the  pulperias  had 
been  well  patronized.  One  or  two  of  the  sailors  had  got 
on  horseback,  but  being  rather  indifferent  horsemen,  and 
the  Mexicans  having  given  them  vicious  beasts,  they  were 
soon  thrown,  much  to  the  amusement  of  the  people.  A 
half-dozen  Sandwich  Islanders,  from  the  hide-houses  and 
the  two  brigs,  bold  riders,  were  dashing  about  on  a  full 
gallop,  hallooing  and  laughing  like  so  many  wild  men." 

Loading  Hides. — As  an  offset  to  the  foregoing  picture, 
read  what  he  says  of  the  difficult  task  at  San  Pedro,  load- 
ing hides  in  exchange  for  the  goods  his  vessel  had  brouglu 
for  trading  purpose :  "We  loaded  our  longboat  with  goods 
of  all  kinds,  light  and  heavy,  and  pulled  ashore.  After 
landing  and  rolling  them  over  the  stones  upon  the  beach, 
we  stopped,  waiting  for  carts  to  come  down  the  hill  and 
take  them ;  but  the  captain  soon  settled  the  matter  by  order- 
ing us  to  carry  them  all  up  to  the  top,  saying  that  that  was 
California  fashion.  So,  what  the  oxen  would  not  do,  we 
were  obliged  to  do.  The  hill  was  low,  but  steep,  and  the 
earth,  being  clayey  and  wet  with  the  recent  rains,  was  but 
bad  holding  ground  for  our  feet.  The  heavy  barrels  and 
casks  we  rolled  up  with  some  difficulty,  getting  behind  and 
putting  our  shoulders   to  them;   now  and  then,   our   feet 


27 

slipping,  added  to  the  danger  of  the  casks  rolling  back 
upon  us.  But  the  greatest  trouble  was  with  the  large 
boxes  of  sugar.  I'hese  we  had  to  place  upon  oars,  and 
lifting  ihem  up,  rest  the  oars  upon  our  shoulders,  and 
creep  slowly  up  the  hill  with  the  gait  of  a  funeral  proces- 
sion. After  an  hour  or  two  of  hard  work,  we  got  them  ail 
up,  and  found  the  carts  standing  full  of  hides,  which  we 
had  to  unload  and  to  load  the  carts  again  with  our  own 
goods ;  the  lazy  Indians,  who  came  down  with  them,  squat- 
ting on  their  hams,  looking  on,  doing  nothing,  and  when 
we  asked  them  to  help  us,  only  shaking  their  heads  and 
drawling  out  'no  quiero.' 

"Having  loaded  the  carts,  we  started  up  the  Indians, 
who  went  ofif,  one  on  each  side  of  the  oxen,  with  long 
sticks,  sharpened  at  the  end,  to  punch  them  with.  This  is 
one  of  the  means  of  saving  labor  in  California — two  In- 
dians to  two  oxen.  Now,  the  hides  were  to  be  got  down; 
and  for  this  purpose  we  brought  the  boat  round  to  a  place 
where  the  hill  was  steeper,  and  threw  them  off,  letting 
them  slide  over  the  slope.  Many  of  them  lodged,  and  we 
had  to  let  ourselves  down  and  set  them  going  again,  and 
in  this  way  became  covered  with  dust,  and  our  clothes  torn. 
After  we  had  the  hides  all  down,  we  were  obliged  to  take 
them  on  our  heads,  and  walk  over  the  stones,  and  through 
the  water,  to  the  boat.  The  water  and  the  stones  together 
would  wear  out  a  pair  of  shoes  a  day,  and  as  shoes  were 
very  scarce  and  very  dear,  we  were  obliged  to  go  bare- 
footed. At  night  we  went  on  board,  having  had  the  hardest 
and  most  disagreeable  day's  work  that  we  had  yet  ex- 
perienced. For  several  days  we  were  employed  in  this 
manner,  until  we  had  handled  forty  or  fifty  tons  of  goods, 
and  brought  on  board  about  two  thousand  hides." 

Native  Carts. — The  carts  used  are  well  described  as  fol- 
lows : 


28 

"At  lliis  lime  there  was  not  in  California  any  vcliiclc 
except  a  rude  California  cart;  tiic  wheels  were  wilhoi't 
tires,  and  were  made  by  felling  an  oak  tree  and  hewing  ii 
down  until  it  made  a  solid  wheel  nearly  a  foot  thick  on 
the  rim  and  a  little  thicker  where  the  axle  went  through. 
The. hole  for  the  axle  would  be  eight  or  nine  inches  in  di- 
ameter, but  a  few  years'  use  would  increase  it  to  a  foot. 
To  make  the  hole,  an  auger,  gouge  or  chisel  was  some- 
times used,  but  the  principal  tool  was  an  ax.  A  small 
tree  required  but  little  hewing  or  shaping  to  answer  for 
an  axle.  These  carts  were  always  drawn  by  oxen,  the  yokes 
being  lashed  with  rawhide  to  the  horns.  To  lubricate  the 
axles  they  used  soap  (that  is  one  thing  the  Mexicans  could 
make),  carrying  along  for  the  purpose  a  big  pail  of  thick 
soapsuds  which  was  constantly  put  in  the  box  or  hole,  but 
you  could  generally  tell  when  a  California  cart  was  com- 
ing a  half  mile  away  by  the  squeaking.  I  have  seen  the  fam- 
ilies of  the  wealthiest  people  go  long  distances  at  the  rate  of 
thirty  miles  or  more  a  day,  visiting,  in  one  of  these  clumsy 
two-wheeled  vehicles.  They  had  a  little  framework  around 
it  made  of  round  sticks,  and  a  bullock  hide  was  put  in  for 
a  floor  or  bottom.  Sometimes  the  better  class  would  have 
a  little  calico  for  curtains  or  cover." 

Harvesting. — John  Bidwell,  the  veteran  prohibitionist  of 
California,  and  a  pioneer  of  1841,  in  the  Century  Magazine 
of  December,  1890,  from  which  I  have  already  quoted, 
gives  an  interesting  account  of  the  w-ay  harvesting  was 
carried  on  in  early  days:  "Harvesting,  with  the  rude  im- 
plements, was  a  scene.  Imagine  three  or  four  hundred 
wild  Indians  in  a  grain  field,  armed,  some  with  sickles, 
some  with  butcher  knives,  some  with  pieces  of  hoop  iron 
roughly  fashioned  into  shapes  like  sickles,  but  many  hav- 
ing only  their  hands  with  which  to  gather  by  small  hand- 
fuls  the  dry  brittle  grain,  and  as  their  hands  would  soon 


29 

become  sore,  they  resorted  to  dry  willow  sticks,  which 
were  split  to  afiford  a  sharper  edge  with  which  to  sever 
the  straw.  But  the  wildest  part  was  the  threshing.  The 
harvest  of  weeks,  sometimes  of  a  month,  was  piled  up  in 
the  form  of  a  mound  in  the  middle  of  a  high,  strong, 
round  corral ;  then  three  or  four  hundred  wild  horses  were 
turned  in  to  thresh  it,  the  Indians  whooping  to  make  them 
run  faster.  Suddenly  they  would  dash  in  before  the  band 
at  full  speed,  when  the  motion  became  reversed,  with  the 
effect  of  plowing  up  the  trampled  straw  to  the  very  bot- 
tom. In  an  hour  the  grain  would  be  thoroughly  threshed 
and  the  dry  straw  broken  almost  into  chaff.  In  this  man- 
ner I  have  seen  two  thousand  bushels  of  wheat  threshed 
in  a  single  hour.  Next  came  the  winnowing,  which  wouM 
often  take  another  month.  It  could  only  be  done  when 
the  wind  was  blowing,  by  throwing  high  into  the  air  shovel- 
fuls of  the  grain,  straw  and  chaff,  the  lighter  materials 
being  wafted  to  one  side,  while  the  grain,  comparatively 
clean,  would  descend  and  form  a  heap  by  itself.  In  this 
manner  all  the  grain  in  California  was  cleaned.  At  that 
day  no  such  thing  as  a  fanning  mill  had  ever  been  brought 
to  this  coast." 

Hospitality  of  Early  Californians. — Mr.  Bidwell  also 
speaks  of  the  hospitality  of  the  native  Californians  of  this 
period  in  the  following  eulogistic,  but  undoubtedly  true, 
terms : 

"The  kindness  and  hospitality  of  the  native  Californians 
have  not  been  over-stated.  Up  to  the  time  the  Mexican  re- 
gime ceased  in  California  they  had  a  custom  of  never 
charging  for  anything;  that  is  to  say,  for  entertainment — 
food,  use  of  horses,  etc.  You  were  supposed,  even  if  in- 
vited to  visit  a  friend,  to  bring  your  blankets  with  j'ou,  and 
one  would  be  very  thoughtless  if  he  traveled  and  did  not 


30 

take  a  knife  witli  liiiii  to  cut  his  meat.  When  yon  had 
eaten,  the  invarialilc  custom  was  to  rise,  deliver  to  the 
woman  or  hostess  the  plate  on  which  you  had  eaten  thr 
meat  and  heans — for  that  was  about  all  they  had — and  say, 
'Muchas  iiiacias.  Scnora,'  (Many  thanks,  Madam)  ;  and 
the  hostess  as  invariably  replied,  'Biicn  provccUo'  (May  it 
do  you  much  good).  Tlie  missions  in  California  invariably 
had  gardens  with  grapes,  olives,  figs,  pomegranates,  pears 
and  apples,  but  the  ranches  scarcely  ever  had  any  frtiit. 
With  the  exception  of  the  tuna  or  prickly  pear,  these  were 
the  only  cultivated  fruits  I  can  recall  to  mind  in  Califor- 
nia, except  oranges,  lemons  and  limes  in  a  few  places. 
When  you  wanted  a  horse  to  ride,  you  would  take  it  to 
the  next  ranch — it  might  be  twenty,  thirty,  or  fifty  miles — 
and  turn  it  out  there,  and  sometime  or  other,  in  reclaiming 
his  stock,  the  owner  would  get  it  back.  In  this  way  j'ou 
might  travel  from  one  end  of  California  to  the  other." 

Secularization. — When  the  padres  saw  that  the  political 
tornado  of  spoliation  was  coming  upon  the  missions,  they 
began,  at  once,  to  convert  all  their  cattle  and  stock,  as  far 
as  posible,  into  monej'.  General  ^t.  G.  Vallejo  is  authority 
for  the  statement  that  "in  the  missions  of  San  Gabriel, 
San  Fernando,  San  Juan  Capistrano  and  San  Luis  Rey, 
they  killed  by  contract  with  private  individuals,  during  the 
years  1830,  1831  and  1832,  more  than  sixty  thousand  head 
of  cattle,  from  which  they  only  saved  the  hides.  The  pe- 
cuniary wealth  of  the  missions  in  their  primitive  days, 
which  were  more  productive,  was  sent  out  of  the  country 
to  Spain,  Mexico  or  Italy.  This  I  know :  and  presume, 
and  even' believe,  that  all  of  it  arrived  safely  at  its  place 
of  destination." 

Thus  the  mission  property  wasted  away.  Many  of  the 
padres  returned  to  Mexico,  and  the  neophytes,  for  whose 


31 

good  they  had  labored  with  so  much  care,  were  scattered 
in  the  towns  and  villages  of  the  gentiles,  to  whom  the 
mission  lands  were  granted  by  the  authorities. 

For  a  long  time  the  country  suffered  by  the  absence  of 
the  guiding  hands  of  the  padres,  but  by  and  bj'e,  the  re- 
cuperative energy  of  the  region  manifested  itself.  The 
new  comers  were  incited  to  labor  intelligently  by  the 
stories  of  the  successes  of  the  priests,  and  it  is  asserted, 
upon  good  authority,  that  even  after  the  secularization  of 
the  missions  and  consequent  dispersion  of  their  property, 
that  California  "in  proportion  to  the  population,  was  the 
richest  of  any  country  under  Spanish  dominion  and  in- 
habited by  citizens  of  Castilian  extraction." 

From  this  period  dates  the  want  of  care  of  the  mission 
buildings.  They  were  unsalable,  the  padres  had  no  one  to 
care  for  them  ;  some  of  them  were  deserted,  and  so  they 
began  to  crumble,  until  to-day  so  many  of  them  are  found 
in  a  state  of  utter  dilapidation  and  ruin. 

Various  Mexican  Governors. — I  have  rapidly  sketched 
the  effect  of  the  Secularization  of  the  Missions,  and  given 
several  quotations  to  show,  somewhat,  the  state  of  the 
country  at  that  period ;  but,  in  the  meantime  other  political 
events  had  been  transpiring. 

Figueroa  died  at  Monterey  in  1835,  leaving  the  governor- 
ship to  Jose  Castro,  and  the  military  command  to  the  rank- 
ing officer  of  the  territory,  Guteirrez.  In  January,  1836, 
Castro  retired  from  the  governorship  in  favor  of  Guteir- 
rez, and  the  latter  ruled  for  four  quiet  months,  until  Mari- 
ano Chico,  who  had  been  appointed  by  the  Mexican  Gov- 
ernment to  succeed  Figueroa,  arrived.  Chico  fell  upon 
evil  times.  Royce  says:  "Chico  was  the  best  hated,  and, 
as  to  personal  reputation,  the  most  unfortunate  of  all  the 
Mexican  Governors  in  California,  although  his  rule  was 
very    brief.      He    had    to    encounter    the    growing   jealousy 


32 

between  the  northern  and  southern  parts  of  California, 
and  his  personal  bearing  was  sncli  as  to  inname  rather 
tlian  tn  conciliate  it,  insomuch  that  the  Californians  joined 
thenceforth  in  circulating  exaggerated  stories  against  him, 
denouncing  him  as  a  'tyrant,  rascal,  and  fool !'  Furio'is 
personal  quarrels,  threatened  rebellion,  and  lack  of  sup- 
port from  the  central  government  forced  him  to  retire  in 
July  of  the  same  year;  and  Guteirrez  was  once  more  left 
at  the  head  of  affairs.  But  the  jealousy  of  everything 
Mexican  was  still  growing.  The  mass  of  the  Californians, 
although  of  the  republican  party,  had  found  that  Mexican 
republicanism  brought  no  good  to  the  land ;  while  the 
padres,  looking  back  regretfully  to  the  old  Spanish  days, 
used  their  influence  also  to  bring  Mexican  authority  into 
discredit.  The  better  Californian  families  felt  themselves 
superior  in  blood  to  most  of  the  Mexicans;  and  the  foreign- 
ers present  in  the  land,  numerous  enough  at  this  time  to 
be  influential,  were  equally  opposed  to  Mexico.  The  re- 
sult of  all  this  was  the  Alvarado  revolution,  in  November, 
1836.  With  a  force  that  included  American  hunters  and 
some  foreign  sailors,  the  revolutionists  got  possession  of 
Monterey,  and  sent  Guteirrez  to  Mexico;  all  of  which  was 
accomplished,  after  the  Californian  fashion  of  civil  war- 
fare, without  the  shedding  of  blood,  and  by  the  mere  show 
of  force.  The  country  was  declared  a  sovereign  State, 
which  was  thenceforth  to  have,  if  possible,  only  a  federal 
union  with  Mexico ;  the  legislature  elected  Alvarado  gover- 
nor ad  iiitcriiii,  and  the  new  administration  began  with 
seemingly  good  prospects.  But  the  South,  the  Los  Angeles 
and  San  Diego  country,  was  still  to  be  conciliated,  before 
California  could  be  united  in  the  new  movement.  Though 
the  Mexican  flag  still  waved  at  Monterey,  the  reports  car- 
ried to  the  South  attributed  to  the  revolutionists  extrava- 
gant designs,  such  as  the  defiance  of  Mexico,  the  delivery 


33 

of  the  province  into  American  hands,  and  the  subversion 
of  the  Catholic  faith.  A  patriotic  reaction  was  therefore 
threatened  from  Los  Angeles,  and  Alvarado  had  to  go 
South  with  a  force,  to  meet  in  person  the  influences  ar- 
rayed against  him.  He  was  successful  in  winning  general 
support  at  Santa  Barbara,  and  he  entered  Los  Angeles 
itself,  without  serious  resistance,  in  January,  1837.  Further 
complications  ensued;  but  in  May  the  political  success  of 
Alvarado's  cause  in  the  South  seemed  already  complete, 
and,  in  a  proclamation,  the  new  governor  declared  the 
country  free  and  united,  although  he  never  gave  up  the 
union  with  Mexico.  But  such  complete  practical  freedom 
as  he  had  thus  far  planned  was  indeed  to  be  given  up ;  for 
in  June,  1837,  Andres  Castillero  arrived  as  Mexican  Com- 
missioner to  California.  He  at  first  joined  the  opponents 
of  Alvarado,  at  San  Diego,  and,  with  an  armed  force  of 
Southerners,  under  the  leadership  of  partisan  opponents 
of  Alvarado,  once  more  threatened  to  restore  Mexican 
supremac}^,  and  to  overthrow  the  Northern  leader.  Cas- 
tillero had  been  commissioned  in  Mexico  to  bring  to  Cali- 
fornia the  constitutional  laws  of  December,  1836,  which 
represented  the  new  order  of  Mexico,  and  to  receive  the 
oaths  of  allegiance  to  this  new  order  from  Californian  offi- 
cials. Alvarado,  before  any  collision  of  forces  could  take 
place,  now  resolved  to  dispose  of  the  Southern  opposition 
by  removing  its  chief  ostensible  cause;  that  is,  by  coming 
to  terms  with  Castillero,  by  giving  up  his  idea  of  mere 
federation,  and  by  thus  consenting  to  submit  himself  to 
constitutional  Mexican  authority.  He  hoped,  not  wrongly 
as  the  sequel  proved,  that  he  could  in  this  way  get  con- 
firmation of  himself  as  Mexican  governor,  and  at  the  same 
time,  so  to  speak,  'dish'  his  Southern  enemies.  This  'tri- 
umph in  defeat'  Alvarado  gained  by  coming  into  friendly 
relations   with    Castillero,    and   by   persuading   him    to    go 


Ij.ick  ti)  Mcxici)  in  Alvar.ido's  own  interest,  so  .'is  to  get 
what  CastilkT(j  liad  not  yet,  authority  to  receive  Alvarado' 
submission,  and  furtlicr  authority  to  make  the  latter,  wh" 
still  stood  in  the  position  of  rebel,  the  constitutional  gov- 
ernor of  California.  The  Southern  opposition  was  thus  for 
the  time  overcome. 

Alvarado  Revolution. — 'In  October,  1837,  the  news  of 
the  appointment  of  a  new  governor,  Carlos  Carrillo,  reacbf^d 
the  land.  The  appointment  had  been  made  before  Alvar- 
ado's  submission  was  heard  of.  The  opponents  of  Alvar- 
ado were  now  once  more  delighted;  Carrillo  was  himself  a 
well-known  Californian,  and  commanded  sympathy  in  the 
South.  But,  as  turned  out,  he  was  politically  incapable, 
and  Alvarado  forthwith  determined  to  resist  him,  and  did 
so  successfully." 

A  battle  took  place  between  the  warring  factions  at  San 
Buenaventura,  which  resulted  in  the  death  of  one  man  and 
the  flight  of  Carrillo's  forces. 

"In  April,  1838,  Carrillo  himself  capitulated  at  Las 
Flores,  some  fifty  or  sixty  miles  north  of  San  Diego;  and 
Alvarado  was  again  left,  after  this  once  more  nearly 
bloodless  conflict,  in  actual  command  of  the  country." 

"In  this  month,  however,  a  small  body  of  men,  under 
the  command  of  Clemente  Espinosa,  an  ensign,  was  sent 
from  Santa  Barbara  by  Colonel  Jose  Maria  Villa,  a  par- 
tisan of  Governor  Alvarado  and  General  Castro,  to  cap- 
ture certain  persons  in  Los  Angeles  suspected  of  being 
engaged  in  a  plan  to  overthrow  the  Government  of  Alvar- 
ado, and  replace  Governor  Carrillo  in  authority.  The 
party  of  Espinosa  entered  Los  Angeles  in  the  night,  and 
camped  on  the  open  space  in  front  of  the  old  Catholic 
church.  The  inhabitants  discovered,  on  opening  the  door- 
of  their  dwellings  on  the  following  morning  that  the  town 
had  been  captured,  or   rather  that  it  was  held  by  armod 


35 

men  from  abroad,  who  soon  commenced  a  general  search 
in  the  houses  of  the  citizens  for  the  suspected  persons. 
Quite  a  number  were  arrested,  among  whom  were  Jose 
Antonio  Carrillo,  a  brother  of  the  deposed  Governor,  Pio 
Pico,  Andres  Pico,  and  Gil  Ybarra,  the  then  Alcalde  of 
Los  Angeles,  together  with  about  half  a  dozen  more  of  the 
prominent  native  citizens  of  the  place.  They  were  all 
taken  north  as  prisoners  of  war,"  eventually  to  be  released 
by  A 1  vara  do. 

Governor  Alvarado  was,  from  the  first,  able  to  see  the 
tendency  of  the  new  comers  into  the  State  to  work  to- 
wards annexing  California  to  the  United  States,  but  he 
made  the  grave  political  error  of  furthering  the  plan  by  an 
effort  to  suppress  it.  In  1840  he  issued  orders  for  the  arrest 
of  all  Americans  in  the  country,  and  about  seventy  per- 
sons, nearly  all  Americans,  were  imprisoned,  forty  of  whom 
were  expelled  to  Mexico. 

Governor  Micheltorena. — The  American  and  English 
governments  made  considerable  stir  over  the  affair,  and 
there  is  but  little  doubt  but  that  this  event  was  the  prime 
cause  in  the  substituting  of  Micheltorena  for  Alvarado  in 
the  Governorship  in  the  year  1842. 

During  Micheltorena's  term  of  office,  on  the  20th  of 
October,  1842,  the  premature  capture  of  Monterey  by  Com- 
modore Thomas  ap  Catesby  Jones  took  place.  Pie  believed 
war  had  been  declared  between  the  United  States  and 
Mexico,  and  desirous  of  forestalling  England,  or  any  other 
country,  he  had  borne  down  upon  Monterey,  called  upon 
the  officers  of  the  town  to  surrender  and  had  raised  the 
American  flag.  Twenty-four  hours  afterward  he  lowered 
it,  discovering  he  had  made  a  mistake,  and  the  following 
month,  with  his  suite  of  officers,  in  full  uniform,  he  called 
upon  Micheltorena  in  Los  Angeles,  to  apologize  for  his 
action.      The    conference    lasted    several    days,    terminated 


30 

pleasantly,  and  a  grand  hanquct  and  hall  were  tendered 
the  Comniodurc  by  Governor  Micheltorena.  It  was  a  most 
gorgeous  afi'air,  llic  wealth  and  beauty  of  the  whole  country 
being  present. 

Micheltorena  unfortunately  brought  some  disreputable 
characters  with  him  from  Mexico  and  they  soon  succeeded 
in  getting  his  rule  generally  disliked,  and  in  the  end  of 
1844  Alvarado  and  Castro  had  accomplished  their  purpose 
in  raising  a  popular  movement  against  him.  Hostilities 
began  in  the  North,  but  in  January,  1845,  Alvarado  and 
Castro  moved  southward,  persuading  the  rancheros  to  join 
them,  taking  some  of  the  younger  men  as  recruits  against 
their  will,  cajoling  or  pressing  horses,  etc.,  until  they  reached 
Los  Angeles,  which  they  found  loyal  to  the  Governor. 
They  entered  the  city  quietly  before  daylight  and  sur- 
prised the  soldiers  in  their  quarters.  Some  resistance  was 
made,  and  two  of  the  defenders  were  killed.  The  officers 
who  resisted  were  made  prisoners. 

Battle  of  San  Fernando. — Alvarado  then  used  every  in- 
ducement to  prevail  upon  the  leading  citizens  and  officials 
to  join  him,  and  having  gained  the  goodwill  and  assistance 
of  Pio  Pico  and  his  brother  Andres,  he  soon  had  a  well 
mounted  but  poorly  armed  force  of  between  seven  and  eight 
hundred  men. 

In  Januarj-,  1845,  Alvarado  rode  forth  with  his  army  to 
meet  Micheltorena,  who  had  followed  him  south.  They 
met  in  the  San  Fernando  Valley.  Here  a  three  days'  battle 
took  place.  The  Americans  on  both  sides  met  before  the 
battle  and  decided  to  remain  neutral.  The  conflict  was 
"bloodless"  except  for  the  slaying  of  a  few  mules  and 
horses.  An  eye  witness  to  the  following  scene  in  Los 
Angeles  thus  describes  the  effect  of  the  conflict  there : 
"About  nine  o'clock  one  clear  morning,  a  day  or  two  after 
the  departure  of  the  troops,  the  first  cannonading  was 
heard  in  Los  Angeles,  and  we  knew  that  the  battle  had 


37 

commenced.  Directly  to  the  north  was  a  high  hill.  As 
soon  as  the  firing  was  heard,  all  the  people  remaining  in 
the  town — men,  women,  and  children — ran  to  the  top  of  the 
hill.  As  the  wind  was  blowing  from  the  north,  the  firing 
was  distinctly  heard,  five  leagues  away  on  the  battlefield, 
throughout  the  day.  All  the  business  places  in  town  were 
closed. 

"The  scene  upon  the  hill  was  a  remarkable  one.  Women 
and  children  with  crosses  in  their  hands,  kneeling  and 
praying  to  the'  saints  for  the  safety  of  their  fathers, 
brothers,  sons,  husbands,  lovers,  cousins, — that  they  might 
not  be  killed  in  the  battle ;  indififerent  to  their  personal  ap- 
pearance, tears  streaming  from  their  eyes,  and  their  hair 
blown  about  by  the  wind,  which  had  increased  to  quite  a 
breeze.  Don  Abel  Stearn,  myself  and  others  tried  to  calm 
and  pacify  them,  assuring  them  that  there  was  probably 
no  danger ;  somewhat  against  our  own  convictions,  it  is 
true,  judging  from  what  we  heard  of  the  firing  and  from 
our  knowledge  of  Micheltorena's  disciplined  force,  his 
battery,  and  the  riflemen  he  had  with  him.  During  the 
day  the  scene  on  the  hill  continued.  The  night  that  fol- 
lowed was  a  gloomy  one,  caused  by  the  lamentations  of 
the  women  an  I  children. 

"It  afterward  proved  that  our  assurances  to  the  women 
were  correct,  for  not  a  single  person  was  killed  in  this  re- 
markable battle,  only  a  few  horses  being  shot.  The  next 
day  the  strife  ended;  Micheltorena  capitulated,  and  agreed 
to  leave   with  his  troops,  arms  and   followers." 

It  is  affirmed  that  the  capitulation  of  Micheltorena  was 
not  compulsory,  for  his  soldiers,  arms  and  equipments 
were  superior  to  those  of  Alvarado,  but  it  was  dictated  by 
a  broad  and  comprehensive  humanity,  which  forebore  to 
injure  the  many  for  the  sake  of  gaining  mere  political 
power.  Captain  Sutter  also  l)ears  testimony  to  the  deposed 
governor's  forbearance  and  generosity. 


38 

A  few  clays  afttr  tlic  battle,  Miclicltorcna  moved  to 
Pales  Verde,  about  four  miles  from  San  Pedro,  from  which 
port  he  eventually  sailed  to  Monterey  and  thence  back  to 
Mexico. 

Don  Pio  Pico  now  became  provisional  governor  of 
the  department,  and  remained  in  office  until  the  political 
conquest  of  Californa  by  the  United  States. 

/linerican  Conquest. — The  last  period  is  the  one  of  Amer- 
ican conquest  and  occupation,  and,  could  it  be  enlarged 
upon,  its  first  days  would  be  found  to  be  as  romantic  as 
any  of  the  others,  affording  as  much  and  as  rich  material 
for  such  writers  as  Bret  Harte  and  Joaquin  Miller  as  they 
have  ever  yet  manipulated. 

On  the  7th  of  July,  1846,  John  D.  Sloat,  commander-in- 
chief  of  the  U.  S.  naval  forces,  raised  the  U.  S.  flag  at 
Monterey,  and  formal  possession  of  the  country  for  the 
United  States  was  duly  taken. 

Fremont. — Pio  Pico,  who  recently  died  (September, 
1894)  in  Los  Angeles,  was  then  governor  of  California, 
with  governmental  headquarters  at  Los  Angeles,  and  the 
military  forces  were  under  the  direction  of  General  Jose 
Castro,  "an  officer  of  high  pretensions,  but  utterly  deficient 
in  strength  and  steadiness  of  purpose,  and  that  capacity 
which  can  work  out  important  results  with  slender  and 
inapposite  means."  For  some  time  Castro  had  been  stirring 
up  strife  against  the  "foreigners,"  as  the  Americans  and 
other  colonists  were  regarded,  and  when  Lieutenant  John 
C.  Fremont  came  on  his  second  expedition  to  California, 
Castro  insolently  bade  him  retreat,  and  threatened  to  drive 
him  out  unless  he  did  so.  This  threat  aroused  Fremont 
to  open  hostilities,  and,  when  Commodore  Sloat  raised  the 
flag  at  Monterey,  Fremont  was  already  engaged  in  harass- 
ing Castro's  forces,  seizing  his  hor?es,  capturing  of  prison- 
ers, etc.  Fremont  acknowledges  that  he  was  acting  upon 
his  own  responsibility.     He  says :    "Having  carefully  ex- 


35 

amined  my  position,  and  foreseeing,  I  tliink,  clearly,  all 
the  consequences  which  may  eventuate  to  m.e  from  such  a 
step,  I  determined  to  take  such  active  and  anticipatory 
measures  as  should  seem  to  me  most  expedient  to  protect 
my  party  and  justify  my  own  character.  I  was  well  aware 
of  the  grave  responsibility  which  I  assumed,  but  I  also  de- 
termined that,  having  once  decided  to  do  so,  I  would  assume 
it  and  the  consequences  fully  and  entirely  and  go  through 
with  the  business  completely  to  the  end." 

That  he  did  so  effectively  is  evidenced  by  two  important 
facts.  One  is  that  California  now  belongs  to  the  United 
States,  taken  possession  of  by  Commodore  Sloat  as  the 
result  of  Fremont's  "action  in  the  north,"  and  the  other  is 
the  following  proclamation  issued  by  Pio  Pico  from  Los 
Angeles,  on  the  news  reaching  him  of  the  capture  of  the 
town  of  Sonoma. 

Flight  of  Governor  Pico. — "The  Constitutional  Governor 
of  the  Department  of  California  addresses  to  its  inhabitants 
the  following  proclamation : 

"  'The  national  honor  being  gravely  wounded  and  com- 
promised in  the  highest  degree  at  the  present  time,  I  have 
the  glory  of  raising  my  voice  to  you  in  the  firm  persuasion 
that  you  are  Mexicans  ;  that  there  burns  in  your  veins  the 
blood  of  those  venerable  martyrs  of  the  country,  and  that 
you  will  not  fail  to  shed  it  in  defense  of  her  liberty  and 
independence.  At  this  moment  your  Department  Governor 
has  received  the  unfortunate  news,  officially  communicated 
by  the  political  authorities  of  Monterey,  and  dated  four 
days  ago,  that  a  gang  of  North  American  adventurers,  with 
the  blackest  treason  that  the  spirit  of  evil  could  invent, 
have  invaded  the  town  of  Sonoma,  raising  their  f^ag  and 
carrying  off  as  prisoners  four  Mexican  citizens. 

"  'Yes,  fellow  citizens ;  and  who  of  you  on  hearing  of  such 
fatal  perfidy  will  not  quit  the  domestic  hearth  and  fly,  gun 
in  hand,  to  the  field  of  honor  to  avenge  the  country's  honor? 


40 

Will  you  be  insciisiljlc  lo  tlic  oppression  in  wliich  masters 
so  vile  wish  to  put  us?  Will  the  grievous  groans  of  the 
country  not  move  you?  Will  you,  with  serene  brow,  see 
destroyed  the  fundamental  pact  of  our  sacred  and  our 
dear  institutions? 

"  'No  I  No !  Far  from  you  he  every  such  suspicion  !  It 
is  not  believed,  from  your  patriotism,  your  blind  love  of 
country,  that  you  will  permit  the  beneficent  and  fruitful 
tree  of  sacred  liberty  to  be  profaned.  The  North  American 
nation  can  never  be  our  friend.  She  has  laws,  religion, 
language  and  customs  totally  opposed  to  ours.  False  to  the 
most  loyal  friendship  which  Mexico  has  lavished  upon 
her,  to  international  law  and  to  the  soundest  policy,  put- 
ting in  execution  her  piratical  schemes,  she  has  stolen  the 
department  of  Texas  and  wishes  to  do  the  same  with  that 
of  California,  thus  iniquitously  to  dismember  the  Mexican 
territory,  to  tarnish  the  flag  of  the  tres  ga  antias,  and  raise 
her  own,  increasing  the  number  of  its  fatal  stars. 

"  'Fly,  Mexicans,  in  all  haste  in  pursuit  of  the  treacherous 
foe!  Follow  him  to  the  farthest  wilderness!  Punish  his 
audacity!  And  in  case  we  fail  let  us  form  a  cemetery 
where  posterity  may  remember  to  the  glory  of  Mexican 
history  the  heroism  of  her  sons,  as  is  remembered  the 
glory  won  by  the  death  of  the  little  band  of  citizens  posted 
at  the  pass  of  Thermopylae  under  General  Leonidas.  Hear 
their  motto:  "Stranger,  say  to  Lacedemonia  that  we  have 
died  here  obeying  her  laws." 

"'Shall  we  not  imitate  this  noble  example?  Shall  we 
consent  that  the  northern  republic  bring  to  our  soil  of 
liberty  the  horrible  slavery  permitted  in  its  States?  Shall 
we  suffer  human  blood  sold  at  a  price  for  vile  gain?  And. 
finally,  must  we  see  profaned  the  august  image  of  the 
Crucified  and  the  dogmas  of  our  sacred  religion? 

"  'Foreign  citizens  who  tread  this  soil,  the  department 
governor  considers  you   under  the  protection  of  the  laws 


41 

and  treaties.  Your  property  will  be  respected.  Nobodj' 
will  molest  yon,  and  as  you  also  are  interested  in  pre- 
.serving  peace  and  security,  the  government  invites  you  to 
the  punishment  of  the  bandits  who  have  invaded  the  north 
of  this  department. 

"  'Compatriots,  run  swiftly  with  me  to  crown  your  brows 
with  the  fresh  laurels  of  unfading  glory.  In  the  fields  of 
the  north  they  are  scattered  ready  to  spring  to  your  noble 
foreheads.  Respond  gladly,  Mexicans,  to  the  desire  of 
your  fellow-citizen  and  friend.  Pio  Pico.' 

"A  few  days  after  the  raising  of  the  flag  Commodore 
Sloat  gave  way  to  his  successor  Commodore  Stockton,  and 
returned  to  Washington.  Stockton  and  Fremont  now  in- 
dustriously set  to  work  to  arrest  further  hostilities  by 
Castro,  who  had  marched  south  with  several  hundred 
horsemen  to   reinforce   Governor  Pico   at  Los   Angeles. 

"On  the  25th  of  July,  the  Cyane — Captain  Mervine — 
sailed  from  Monterey,  with  Lieutenant  Colonel  Fremont 
and  a  small  volunteer  force  on  board,  for  San  Diego,  to 
intercept  Castro.  A  few  days  later.  Commodore  Stockton 
sailed  in  the  Congress,  frigate,  for  San  Pedro,  and,  with  a 
detachment  from  his  squadron  of  three  hundred  and  sixty 
men,  and  some  artillery,  marched  to  the  enemy's  camp, 
which  he  found  deserted.  Pico  and  Castro  had  also  re- 
treated from  Los  Angeles,  and  Fremont,  Who  was  march- 
ing up  from  San  Diego,  was  disappointed  in  his  expecta- 
tions of  meeting  them.  Pico  made  his  way,  without  dis- 
covery by  the  American  forces,  through  San  Diego  into 
Lower  California,  and  thence  crossed  the  Gulf  and  landed 
in  Sonora.  General  Castro,  after  disbanding  the  force 
under  his  command,  took  the  road,  with  a  small  number  of 
adherents,  for  Sonora,  over  the  Colorado  River  route. 
Some  little  effort  was  made  to  capture  both  him  and  Gov- 
ernor Pico,  but  they  made  good  ihcir  escape. 

"On   the   13th   of  July   Fremont   and    Stockton   met,   and 


4i 

logctlicr  inarclicd  to  Los  Angeles,  and  on  tlic  15th  entered 
the  city.  On  the  22d  of  Angiist,  so  says  the  Secretary  of 
the  Navy,  'the  flag  of  the  United  States  was  flying  at  every 
commanding  position,  and  California  was  the  undisputed 
military  possession  of  the  United  States.' " 

Revolt  in  Los  Angeles. — On  the  5th  of  September  Stock- 
ton left  for  San  Francisco,  calling  on  his  way  at  Santa 
Barbara  for  the  soldiers  he  had  left  as  a  garrison,  with 
the  purpose  of  soon  sailing  south  on  an  expedition  to 
Mazatlan  or  Acapulco,  "where,  if  possible,  he  intended  to 
land  and  fight  his  way  as  far  on  to  the  City  of  Mexico  as 
he  could."  Fremont  was  to  be  left  as  Military  Governor 
of  California  in  his  absence,  and  he  was  also  to  go  north 
and  see  how  many  men  he  could  induce  to  join  Stockton 
in  his  endeavor.  A  few  days  after  Stockton  sailed,  Fre- 
mont started  for  the  Sacramento  River  region,  leaving 
Lieutenant  of  Marines  A.  H.  Gillespie  in  command  at  Los 
Angeles.  On  the  23rd  of  September,  Cevol  Varelas,  a  na- 
tive of  Los  Angeles,  attacked  the  Americans — only  seven- 
teen men — who  were  soon  in  a  state  of  siege  on  Fort  Hill. 
There  they  remained  until  the  30th,  when,  seeing  no  way 
of  raising  the  siege,  and  expecting  no  relief,  Gillespie  signed 
articles  of  capitualation,  and  retreated  with  his  men  to 
San  Pedro,  where  they  were  taken  on  board  the  American 
merchant  ship  Vandalia.  The  Mexican  flag  was  once  more 
raised  in  Los  Angeles. 

News  of  this  revolt  reached  Stockton,  and  Captain  Mer- 
vine,  commanding  the  L^.  S.  frigate  Savannah,  was  ordered 
to  proceed  at  once  to  San  Pedro  to  protect  American  in- 
terests at  Los  Angeles.  On  the  6th  of  October  he  reached 
San  Pedro,  and  on  the  7th  he  and  Gillespie  landed,  with  a 
force  of  about  five  hundred  men.  They  were  met  at 
the  rancho  of  flannel  Dominguez,  about  midway  between 
San  Pedro  and  Los  Angeles,  by  the  insurgents  under 
the   command   of   Jose   Antonio    Carrillo   and   Jose    Maria 


43 

Flores,  who  attacked  witli  so  much  spirit  and  energy,  that, 
after  a  battle  of  several  hours'  duration,  in  which  the 
Americans  lost  four  of  their  men  and  several  wounded, 
Mervine  retreated  to  his  vessel  at  San  Pedro. 

Effect  of  American  Defeat. — -The  news  of  this  defeat 
of  the  Americans,  caused  many  of  the  Californians  through- 
out the  whole  of  the  State  to  revolt,  break  their  parole, 
and  join  with  the  refractory  spirits  who  refused  to  ac- 
knowledge American  supremacy.  At  San  Diego,  Santa 
Barbara  and  elsewhere  the  U.  S.  flag  was  pulled  down. 
These  proceedings  aroused  Stockton  to  the  importance 
of  devoting  his  attention  to  the  Mexicans  in  California, 
rather  than  organizing  an  expedition  to  harass  them  in 
Mexico,  so  he  vigorously  forwarded  matters  for  securing 
absolute  domination.  As  an  interesting  account  of  the 
difficulty  he  had  to  procure  arms,  the  following  from 
Davis'  "Sixty  Years  in  California"  is  worthy  a  place : 
"Small  arms  of  all  kinds  were  very  scarce  in  the  country, 
and  Stockton  was  desirous  of  collecting  all  he  could  for 
his  proposed  expedition.  One  morning  a  mid-shipman 
from  the  Congress  presented  the  commodore's  complim.ents, 
and  said  the  commodore  desired  me  to  purchase  for  him 
a  quantity  of  small  arms,  pistols,  rifles,  etc.  I  sent  out 
several  of  my  clerks  to  the  little  shops,  bar-rooms,  and  all 
the  places  in  Yerba  Buena  (now  San  Francisco)  where 
it  seemed  probable  any  arms  could  be  found,  and  collected 
a  considerable  number,  many  of  which  were  obtained 
from  the  Mormons,  who  had  recently  arrived.  The  arms 
were  turned  over  to  Commodore  Stockton,  who  paid  for 
them,  and  also  thanked  me  for  the  service." 

General  Edward  Beale,  tiicn  a  mid-shipman,  was  sent 
up  the  Sacramento  River,  with  a  fleet  of  boats,  to  bring 
seventy  good  men,  well  armed,  and  with  their  linrsc  equip- 
ments ready  for  scr\-ice  when  hnrsc-^  i-mild  be  foimd  to 
mount  them." 


44 

Stockton  sailed  in  tlic  Congress,  intending  to  go  direct 
to  San  Pedro.  Fremont,  in  the  Sterling,  was  to  land  at 
Santa  Barbara  and  suppress  the  uprising  there.  On  his 
way  South,  Stockton  fell  in  with  the  merchant  ship  Barn- 
stable, which  had  dispatches  for  him  informing  him  thnt 
Monterey  was  in  danger,  and  asking  his  immediate  aid. 
He,  therefore,  landed  fifty  men,  two  officers,  and  some  ar- 
tillery as  a  reinforcement,  and  then  continued  to  Santa 
Barbara,  where,  not  finding  Fremont,  he  went  on  to  San 
Pedro.  At  this  place  the  successful  Californians  "col- 
lected in  large  bodies  on  all  the  adjacent  hills,  and  would 
not  permit  a  hoof  except  their  own  horses  to  be  within 
fifty  miles  of  San  Pedro."  Stockton,  however,  landed,  took 
possession  of  San  Pedro,  and  once  more  hoisted  the  U.  S. 
flag.  For  several  days  he  waited  here  for  the  arrival  of 
Fremont,  but  the  same  difficulty  of  procuring  horses  hav- 
ing arrested  that  official's  progress  southward,  he  had  gone 
back  to  Monterey,  sent  for  horses  and  soon  started  on  a 
mounted  march  through  the  interior.  Stockton,  knowing 
nothing  of  this  delay,  which,  however,  he  might  easily  have 
anticipated  from  his  own  difficulties,  re-embarked  his  men 
and  sailed  for  San  Diego.  Here  again  he  was  hampered 
by  the  same  obstacles  in  the  way  of  procuring  horses.  The 
Californians  drove  away  all  except  their  own,  and  with 
their  own,  and  with  their  skilled  horsemanship,  kept  up  a 
a  guerilla  warfare  upon  the  forces  of  Stockton  that  was 
galling  in  the  extreme.  Accordingly  he  sent  a  vessel  down 
the  coast  of  Lower  California  to  procure  horses  and  mules, 
which  service  was  accomplished  by  the  good  offices  of 
Senor  Bandini.  one  of  the  native  Californians  of  San 
Diego,  who,  however,  had  shown  himself  friendly  to  the 
Americans. 

Arrival  of  General  Kcaniy. — About  this  time  it  was  re- 
ported to  the  Commodore  that  the  enemy  was  encamped 
a  few  miles  away  from  San  Diego,  and  consisted  of  only 


45 

fifty  men.  Giilespie  was  ordered  to  "surprise"  them.  Dur- 
ing his  preparations,  an  English  resident  of  California,  a 
Mr.  Stokes,  brought  a  letter  to  Stockton  from  Brigadier- 
General  S.  W.  Kearny,  who  had  just  reached  by  over- 
land journey,  the  frontier  of  inhabited  California,  asking 
for  "a  party  to  open  a  communication"  with  him  as  speed- 
ily as  possible. 

Gillespie  was  accordingly  sent  to  Kearny  and  "on  the 
day  but  one  following  his  departure  from  San  Diego,  he 
met  General  Kearny  about  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  in 
the  mountains  between  Santa  Maria  and  Santa  Ysabel,  and 
put  himself  at  his  orders."  Kearny  learning  from  Gillespie 
of  the  near  proximity  of  the  Californians  decided  to  at- 
tack, and,  if  possible,  surprise  them. 

Battle  of  Sa)i  Pascital. — The  attack  was  made  Dec.  6, 
1846,  and  seriously  repulsed.  Captain  Turner  reporting  Gen- 
eral Kearny  wounded.  Captains  Monroe  and  Johnson 
killed.  Lieutenant  Hammond  dangerously  wounded,  in  all 
"about  eighteen  killed  and  fourteen  or  fifteen  wounded." 
This  was  not  all  of  the  disheartening  report.  It  was  after- 
wards found  that  "General  Kearny  and  his  whole  force 
were  besieged  on  a  small  hill  of  rocks,  and  so  surrounded 
by  the  enemy  that  it  was  impossible  for  them  to  escape 
unless  immediate  assistance  was  sent  to  them ;  that  all 
their  cattle  had  been  taken  away  from  them  and  that  they 
were  obliged  to  eat  their  mules."  Don  Andres  Pico, 
brother  of  Governor  Pio  Pico,  was  in  command  of  the 
Californians. 

Relief  was  sent  to  the  besieged  party,  and  on  the  12th 
of  December,  General  Kearny  arrived  at  San  Diego. 

Dr.  Griffin's  Diary. — Dr.  John  S.  Griffin,  Assistant  Sur- 
geon, U.  S.  A.,  attached  to  the  command  of  General 
Kearny,  kept  a  diary  of  the  march  into  California,  the 
battle  with  Pico's  forces  and  subsequent  events,  and  from 
published  extracts  of  this  record  we  reprint  the  following: 


46 

"icS46 — Novcnihcr  22.~\Vc  discovered  llic  trail  of  a  lar^L 
body  of  horse.  Kit  Carson  saw  tlic  tracks  of  women  on 
the  sand.  Licntenant  Emory  went  out  with  a  party  of 
twenty  men,  and  about  12J/2  i'.  M.,  brought  in  three  or 
four  Mexicans,  from  whom  we  learned  that  they  were  a 
party  of  traders,  or  rather  refugees  from  California  to 
Sonora.  They  had  five  hundred  horses  and  mules.  They 
told  us  of  Flores ;  that  Roudbidoux  was  a  prisoner;  ad- 
vised us  not  to  lose  time,  as  our  presence  would  be  of  great 
benefit  to  our  countrymen.  (I  think,  not  many  minutes 
will  be  lost.)  *  *  *  Our  men  are  nearly  naked  and 
barefooted,  their  feet  sore,  and  leg-weary.  Only  the 
sick  have  been  allowed  to  ride  lately.  We  are  a  mile  and 
a  half  above  the  mouth  of  the  Gila. 

"23d. — A  child  born  to-night,  in  the  Mexican  camp.  We 
all  contributed  tea,  sugar,  and  cofifee  to  the  mother. 

"24th. — Lieutenants  Emory  and  Warner    (Topographical 

Engineers),  while  out  making  observations,  came  across  a 

Mexican  in  the  bottom;  searched  him,  and  found  several 

letters  addressed  to  Castro.     Crossed  the  Colorado  River, 

so  as  to  take  the  desert  to-morrow. 

******* 

"December  2d. — About  4  p.  ai.  arrived  at  Warner's — the 
extreme  frontier  settlement  of  California.  He  is  living  very 
comfortably;  seems  to  have  plenty  of  cattle,  horses  and 
sheep,  and  certainly  has  a  fine  range  for  them.  An  Irish- 
man there  informed  us  *  *  *  that  there  were  detached 
parties  of  the  enemy  between  us  and  San  Diego,  and  that 
a  Mexican  force,  escorting  prisoners  out  of  the  country  to 
Mexico,  would  probably  arrive  in  our  neighborhood  to- 
night. 

"3rd. — This  is  called  Agua  Caliente — a  boiling  spring — a 
vineyard.  We  obtained  some  of  the  grapes  dried ;  they 
were  nearly  as  sweet  as  raisins,  and  of  finer  flavor;  also, 
watermelons    from    the    Indians.      Last    night   had    a    visit 


47 

from  an  Englishman,  by  name  Stokes;  he  has  remained 
neutral  during  the  difficulties.  He  consented  to  carry  a 
letter  to  Commodore  Stockton,  at  San  Diego.  About  one 
p.  M.,  Lieutenant  Davidson  returned  with  some  hundred 
young  mules  and  horses,  the  major  portion  utterly  worthless 
to  us.  '■''■  *  *  Rain  all  day.  Camped  at  Stokes'  Ranch 
in  the  evening — Santa   Ysabel. 

"4th. — This  was  a  Mission;  the  buildings  much  better 
than  at  ^^'arner's ;  everything  of  neater  appearance.  An 
Indian  village  v;as  near  the  house.  The  Chief  made  a 
speech  to  the  General  last  evening,  in  which  he  declared 
his  wish  not  to  engage  in  war  in  any  manner,  but  that  he 
was  perfectly  willing  to  go  to  work.  The  General  advised 
him  to  keep  at  peace  and  work  hard,  and  he  would  be 
well  treated.  Stokes  seems  to  have  a  large  stock.  His 
Major-domo  gave  the  officers  a  supper.  He  gave  the 
General  information  of  a  party  of  Mexicans  at  some  mis- 
sion on  our  road,  with  500  animals. 

"Stli. — Marched  from  Stokes'  Ranch  with  Senor  Bill — 
William  Williams — the  Major-domo,  for  guide.  He  drank 
pretty  freely  the  night  before;  chasing  wild  horses,  pres- 
ently he  was  thrown,  and  said  he  would  go  no  further. 
The  General  had  him  mounted  on  a  mule,  with  two  of  the 
guard  by  his  side.  Bill  took  us  once  on  the  wrong  road, 
but  soon  corrected  the  mistake.  After  a  few  miles  we  met 
Captain  Gillespie's  party,  from  San  Diego — 35  men  and  one 
four-pounder.  They  soon  encamped.  We  marched  about 
10  miles,  to  a  grove  of  live  oak,  with  no  water,  except  that 
which  was  falling  from  the  heavens.  It  rained  heavily.  A 
party  of  the  enemy  being  reported  in  our  vicinity,  it  was 
first  determined  that  Captain  Moore  should  take  sixty  men 
and  make  a  night  attack.  For  some  reason  the  General 
altered  his  mind,  and  sent  Lieutenant  Hammond,  with 
three  men,  to  reconnoitre.     Hammond  found  the  enemy  at 


48 

sonic  ten  miles  distant,  Ijiit  was  discovered.  As  lie  gal- 
loped off  with  his  parly,  the  Mexicans  gave  three  cheers. 

"December  6th. — At  two  i*.  M.  we  were  all  afoot,  and 
expected  to  surprise  the  Mexicans.  Although  we  had 
rain  all  night  our  arms  were  not  reloaded;  but  'boots  and 
saddles'  was  the  word,  and  off  we  went — in  search  of  ad- 
venture. Two  miles  from  camp  we  overtook  Gillespie's 
company,  which  fell  in  in  the  rear.  Major  Swords  was 
left  back  with  the  baggage  and  thirty  men.  Another  party 
remained  behind  with  Gillespie's  four-pounder.  This  re- 
duced our  fighting  men  to  eighty-five,  all  told.  With  these 
and  two  howitzers  we  marched  forward.  The  morning 
was  excessively  cold.  We  felt  it  the  more,  as  most  of  us 
were  wet  to  the  skin.  Passing  over  a  mountain,  and  travel- 
ing as  near  as  I  can  judge  ten  or  eleven  miles,  we  came  in 
sight  of  the  enemy's  fires. 

"We  marched  down  the  mountain.  So  soon  as  we  arrived 
on  the  flat  below,  the  shout  and  charge  commenced  from 
the  advance.  After  running  our  jaded  and  broken-down 
mules  and  horses  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  the  enemy 
opened  fire  on  us.  The  balls  whistled  by  awhile,  but  the 
light  was  not  sufficient  for  me  to  distinguish  anything  like 
a  line  of  the  enemy;  on  my  left,  however,  there  was  a  con- 
siderable flashing  of  guns.  In  a  few  minutes  the  enemy 
broke,  and  we  found  that  they  had  made  a  stand  in  front  of 
an  Indian  Rancheria,  called  San  Pascual.  Day  was  just 
breaking.  At  this  moment  a  Mexican  dashed  by;  Lieuten- 
ant Beale,  of  the  navy,  fired  several  shots,  and  he  fell. 
Another  man  galloped  by — he  had  a  Mexican  look ;  a  dra- 
goon pistol  was  fired  at  him  without  effect,  and  the  dragoon 
was  about  to  cut  him  down  with  a  sabre,  when  I  recognized 
him  as  one  of  Gillespie's  party.  By  this  time  we  were 
much  disordered.  Some  of  our  men  had  fast  horses,  others 
poor,    broken    down    horses    and   mules.      Captain    Moore, 


49 

liowcver,  ordered  the  charge  further ;  it  was  made  hurly- 
hurly — not  more  than  ten  or  fifteen  men  in  line,  and  not 
forty  altogether.  On  they  went.  The  enemy  continued 
the  retreat  for  about  half  a  mile,  when  they  rallied,  and 
came  at  us  like  devils,  with  their  lances.  Mounted  on 
swift  horses,  and  most  of  our  firearms  having  been  dis- 
charged or  missed  fire,  from  the  rain  of  the  night  before, 
our  advance  was  at  their  mercy.  Our  men  wheeled,  and  a 
howitzer  having  been  brought  up  near,  rallied  on  the  gun, 
and  drove  off  the  enemy. 

"Hammond  was  the  first  wounded  man  I  saw.  He  had 
been  in  the  advance  with  Moore,  and  had  a  lance  wound  on 
the  left  side,  between  the  eighth  and  ninth  ribs.  I  told 
him  to  go  a  little  further  to  the  rear  and  I  would  attend  to 
him.  Separated  at  this  moment  from  him  the  General  saw 
me,  told  he  was  wounded,  and  wished  my  services.  In  a 
few  moments  Captains  Gillespie  and  Gibson,  and  others, 
were  found  to  be  wounded.  Captain  Johnston,  who  led  the 
first  charge,  was  killed  by  a  gun-shot.  I  was  told  he  was 
the  only  one  who  received  any  injury  from  gun-shot.  Moore 
was  killed  leading  the  second  charge ;  and  Hammond,  it 
was  said  (and  so  he  told  me),  in  attempting  to  rescue 
Moore.  One  of  Emory's  party  was  killed,  by  the  name  of 
Menard ;  also,  one  of  Gillespie's  men ;  two  Sergeants,  "one 
Corporal,  and  eleven  privates,  of  dragoons,  and  one  missing, 
supposed  to  be  killed.  We  lost  one  of  our  howitzers — the 
mules  were  wild  and  ran  off  with  the  piece.  Of  the  three 
men  with  it,  one  was  killed,  the  other  two  desperately 
wounded.  Upon  the  whole,  we  had  wounded :  four  officers, 
one  Sergeant,  one  Corporal,  ten  privates,  and  Mr.  Roubi- 
doux,  interpreter.  Total  killed  and  wounded,  thirty-eight. 
And  I  should  not  think  there  were  to  exceed  fifty  men  who 
saw  the  enemy.     We  took  two  prisoners. 

"This   was   an    action   wherein    decidedly   more   courage 


50 

lli.'iii  cnndiut  was  sliown.  Tlic  first  charge  was  a  mistake 
on  the  part  of  Captain  Johnston;  the  second,  on  the  part  of 
Captain  Moore. 

"We  drove  tlic  enemy   from  tiie  field  and  encamped. 

"December  7lh.— Marched  and  took  possession  of  a  hill 
in  front  of  the  house  of  San  Bernardo  Rancho,  after  a 
brief  contest  for  it.  The  wounded  were  carried  in  six 
ambulances.  I  sent  word  to  General  Pico  that  I  would  be 
most  happy  to  attend  to  his  wounded.  He  replied  that  he 
had  none. 

"Made  exchange  of  one  prisoner  for  another.  On  ac- 
count of  the  wounded  the  General  consented  to  remain. 
Lieutenant  Beale  and  Kit  Carson  were  sent  with  dispatches 
to  Commodore  Stockton.  We  burnt  all  the  baggage,  in 
order  to  have  as  little  encumbrance  as  possible;  dismounted 
the  men,  and  determined  to  perform  the  rest  of  the  march 
on  foot.  The  enemy  hovering  around,  but  careful  not  to 
come  within  gun-shot. 

"9th. — In  camp ;  nothing  going  on :  the  enemy  parading 
about  on  the  hills  on  the  other  side  of  the  valley.  We  are 
reduced  to  mule  meat. 

"loth. — Sergeant  Cox  died  this  morning.  If  reinforce- 
ments are  not  sent  we  march  in  the  morning,  at  all  hazards. 
Our  animals  were  grazing  quietly  at  the  foot  of  the  hill 
near  camp.  At  a  distance  we  could  see  a  party  of  Mexicans 
driving  a  band  of  wild  horses  toward  us.  Within  half  an 
hour  they  came  on  at  full  speed,  intending  thus  a  stampede. 
Certainly  a  beautiful  sight  as  they  approached  nearer. 
W'aiting  awhile,  and  not  coming  within  gun-shot,  our  ani- 
mals were  driven  out  of  the  way,  and  by  a  shout  the  wild 
horses  were  turned — only  one  mule  getting  within  gun-shot 
(with  a  great  hide  tied  to  the  tail),  which  was  struck,  I 
was  told,  by  forty  balls,  and  finally  butchered.  A  Godsend 
to  us,  this  being  very  fat.     The  General  ordered  all  things 


51 

to  be  in  readiness  for  marching  in  the  morning.  We  all 
went  to  bed  firmly  convinced  that  we  should  have  to  fight 
our  way  into  San  Diego. 

"ith. — About  tv>'0  o'clock  a.  m.,  the  sentinel  heard  a  body 
of  armed  men  approaching.  They  were  hailed,  and,  to  our 
great  joy,  found  to  be  friends  sent  to  our  relief  from  San 
Diego.  They  mustered  200  strong — 80  marines  and  100 
sailors.  Captain  Zielan  in  charge  of  the  marines,  Lieutenant 
Gray  of  the  whole  detachment.  Immediately  our  beds  were 
vacated,  and  surrendered  to  our  tired  comrades.  Awaking 
at  daylight  they  found  mule  soup  ready.  In  turn,  they 
emptied  the  contents  of  their  haversacks,  consisting  of 
jerked  beef  and  bread,  and  all  made  a  first  rate  breakfast. 
The  Jack  Tars  seemed  highly  delighted  with  the  new  role 
of  'soldiers,'  discontented  only  with  the  enemy  for  not  hav- 
ing given  them  a  fight  before  reaching  camp.  Early  in 
the  morning  we  started  for  the  Rancho  Penasquitos  (little 
stones).  The  hill  sides  were  well  set  with  wild  oats,  two 
or  three  inches  above  the  surface,  green  as  a  wheat  field. 
Collected  a  hundred  head  of  cattle  to-day,  in  fine  condition ; 
and  at  the  ranch  picked  up  a  hundred  sheep  and  a  barrel 
of  wine  (for  the  sick  and  wounded).  A  plentiful  supper, 
and  a  good  night's  rest. 

"I2th.— All  arose,  freshened  with  the  idea  of  to-day  finish- 
ing this  long  and  weary  march.  Reached  San  Diego  about 
four  p.  M.  We  received  the  warmest  welcome  and  kindest 
attention  from  our  naval  friends.  Everything,  so  far  as  it 
had  been  in  power  of  the  Surgeon  of  the  post,  had  been 
prepared  for  our  wounded.  The  Congress  and  Portsmouth 
were  at  anchor  in  the  bay,  and  the  town  was  garrisoned  by 
their  crews  and  marines." 

The  Force  That  Met  Kearny. — It  was  from  Los  Angeles 
that  the  force  originated  which  so  effectively  repulsed 
General  Kearny's  attack.  The  Los  Angeles  County  Cen- 
tennial   History    says: — "Late   in   October,    Don   Leonardo 


52 

Cota,  at  (lie  head  of  one  luiiulred  nifii,  raised  in  and  around 
Los  Angeles,  marched  for  San  Diego,  of  which  port  Com- 
modore Stockton,  in  the  frigate  Congress,  a  short  time  be- 
fore had  taken  possession.  After  an  unimportant  demon- 
stration on  tlie  Old  Presidio  hill,  and  a  trifling  skirmish 
at  the  Mission  San  Diego,  he  withdrew  to  the  little  valley 
of  Soledad,  twelve  miles  north  of  the  town,  near  enough  to 
avail  himself  of  any  opportunity  that  might  offer  to  renew 
the  attack.  His  officers  were  Enrique  Abila,  Ramon  Car- 
rillo,  Jose  Maria  Cota,  Carlos  Dominguez,  Nicholas  Her- 
mosillo  (  a  Sonoranian),  all  of  this  city;  Jose  Alipaz  of 
San  Juan  Capistrano,  and  Ramon  O.  Suna  of  San  Diego. 
Meanwhile  a  Commission  that  had  been  sent  by  Flores  to 
Castro,  in  Sonora,  had  dispatched  information  to  Los  An- 
geles, that  a  large  body  of  armed  men  had  been  seen  on  the 
river  Gila.  In  consequence  of  this  report,  about  November 
twenty-second,  General  Andres  Pico  was  sent,  with  one 
hundred  men,  to  protect  Cota  and  oppose  the  entry  of  any 
hostile  force.  General  Pico  first  took  post  at  San  Luis  Rey 
Mission;  finally  moved  to  the  pretty  valley  of  San  Pascual. 
He  then  had  eighty  men ;  having  lost  some  stragglers, 
but  gained  reinforcements  of  ten  from  San  Diego  county, 
among  them  Don  Leandro  Osuna.  His  officers  were  Cap- 
tain Juan  Bautista  Moreno,  Tomas  A.  Sanchez,  Pablo 
Vejar,  Manuel  Vejar,  and  others.  The  reader  will  not 
confound  this  point  with  the  Rancho  of  San  Pascual,  about 
twelve  miles  from  the  City  of  Los  Angeles,  where  sub- 
sequently, about  the  date  of  the  Cahuenga  negotiation, 
General  Pico  had  a  camp.  San  Pascual  of  battle  memory 
is  thirty-four  miles  northeast  from  the  City  of  San  Diego, 
close  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains.  This  was  one  of  the 
three  Indian  pueblos  established  after  the  secularization  of 
the  Missions.  It  had  then  a  small  population,  originally  of 
emancipated  Neophytes  of  the  Mission  of  San  Diego,  who 
have  been  reduced  in  numbers  during  the  last  thirty  years. 


53 

Tt  exists  still,  but  misses  the  governing  hand  of  "Old 
Panto,"  who  died  many  years  ago. 

Battle  of  San  Gabriel. — On  the  27th  of  December  Stock- 
ton and  Kearny  left  San  Diego  for  San  Luis  Rey  on  their 
way  to  quell  the  disturbances  at  Los  Angeles.  Says  one 
of  the  ofificers  of  the  party :  "Our  line  of  march  lay 
through  a  rough  and  mountainous  country  of  nearly  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles,  with  impediments  on  every  side, 
and  constant  apprehensions  of  an  attack  from  the  enemy; 
our  progress  was  nevertheless  rapid ;  and  though  per- 
formed mostly  by  sailor  troops,  would  have  done  credit  to 
the  best  disciplined  arm}-. 

"In  the  morning  of  the  8th  of  January,  1847,  we  found 
ourselves,  after  several  days'  hard  marching  and  fatigue, 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  river  San  Gabriel ;  on  the  north  side 
of  which  the  enemy  had  fortified  themselves  to  the  num- 
ber of  five  hundred  mounted  men,  with  four  pieces  of 
artillery,  under  the  command  of  General  Flores." 

Jose  Maria  Flores  was  a  paroled  military  officer,  who  had 
fied  from  Los  Angeles  after  helping  foment  the  distur- 
bances which  eventuated  in  Gillespie's  capitulation  and  re- 
treat, and  he  was  now  the  principal  officer  of  the  Califor- 
nians, — the  insurgents  as  they  were  termed.  Quite  a  num- 
ber of  those  who  joined  with  him  were  also  paroled,  al- 
though a  large  number  joined  the  ranks  in  good  faith.  All 
writers  agree  that  they  had  just  cause  to  feel  aggrieved. 
Commodore  Stockton  and  Captain  Gillespie,  without  due 
regard  to  the  character,  disposition  and  former  habits  of 
life  of  the  native  Californians,  imposed  galling  and  un- 
necessary restraints  upon  them.  "Among  the  police  regu- 
lations laid  down  by  Commodore  Stockton  were  two  which 
jarred  against  all  the  instincts  of  this  people.  These  two 
were,  first,  that  any  one  who  wished  to  be  out  of  his  house 
before  sunrise  must  have  a  pass  from  Captain  Gillespie, 
the  commandant  of  the  district.    And,  second,  that  any  per- 


54 

sons  who  wished  lo  carry  arms  for  protection  to  them- 
selves and  servants,  must  have  a  written  pass  from  the  same 
aiitliority."  These  and  other  ill-advised  measures  provoked 
a  genera!  resistance  to  the  Americans,  and  gave  to  the  acts 
of  Florcs  all  the  color  of  a  popular  uprising  against  the 
foreign  oppressors. 

To  return  now  to  San  Gabriel,  where  the  opposing 
forces  met.  Florcs  was  on  the  northwest  side  of  the  river. 
Stockton  approached  from  the  southwest.  Flores'  posi- 
tion was  "so  commanding,  that  it  seemed  impossible  to 
gain  any  point  by  which  our  troops  could  be  protected  from 
their  galling  fire.  On  reaching  the  south  side  of  the  river 
the  Commodore  dismounted,  forded  the  stream,  and  com- 
manded the  troops  to  pass  over,  which  they  did  promptly 
under  the  brisk  fire  of  the  enemy's  artiller>'.  He  ordered 
the  artillery  not  to  unlimber  till  the  opposite  bank  should 
be  gained;  as  soon  as  this  was  effected,  he  ordered  a 
charge  direct  in  the  teeth  of  the  enemy's  guns,  which  soon 
resulted  in  the  possession  of  the  commanding  position 
they  had  just  occupied."  Another  writer  says:  "During 
the  engagement,  one  of  the  artillerymen  was  killed  by  a 
shot  from  the  enemy,  while  firing  his  gun.  Stockton,  who 
was  near  by,  immediately  took  charge  of  the  gun,  and  so 
accurate  was  his  aim  that  he  did  marked  execution  in  the 
enemy's  ranks."  Indeed,  as  the  former  writer  declares, 
this  shot  "overthrew  the  enemy's  gun,  which  had  just 
poured  forth  its  thunder  in  our  midst."  To  again  quote 
William  Heath  Davis :  "Twenty-five  or  thirty  of  the  Cali- 
fornians  were  killed,  and  a  great  many  wounded ;  while 
Stockton's  loss  did  not  exceed  ten  killed,  with  a  few 
wounded. 

Califoniiaiis'  Mode  of  Warfare. — "Doubtless  the  actual 
number  of  the  Californians  killed  will  never  be  known, 
tlicy  having  concealed  their  loss,  not  being  willing  to  make 
a  statement  in  regard  thereto.     Manv  more  of  the  Califor- 


55 

nians  would  have  been  killed  and  wounded  during  their 
charges  upon  Stockton's  force,  but  for  skillful  maneuvers 
in  horsemanship  which  they  employed  in  making  their 
attacks.  Forcing  their  horses  forward,  in  approaching 
Stockton's  line,  every  horseman  in  their  ranks  threw  him- 
self over  to  one  side,  bending  far  down,  so  that  no  part  of 
his  body,  except  one  leg,  appeared  above  the  saddle.  When 
the  columns  met  and  the  horseman  was  required  to  use 
the  lance  or  do  other  cfifective  service,  he  remained  but  a 
few  seconds  in  the  saddle,  and  in  the  retreat  he  threw  him- 
self over  along  the  side  of  the  horse,  and  rode  rapidly  in 
that  position,  guiding  the  steed  skillfully  at  the  same  time. 
By  these  tactics  the  cavalry  of  the  enemy  avoided  present- 
ing themselves  as  conspicuous  marks   for  the  riflemen. 

"Stockton  had  three  or  four  hundred  head  of  beef  cattle 
which  he  had  brought  from  San  Diego,  or  had  gathered 
along  the  route,  for  the  use  of  the  army.  In  forming  the 
square  to  receive  the  attacks  of  the  Californians,  the  cattle 
were  placed  within  the  lines,  and  also  his  baggage,  wagons 
and  supplies. 

"The  enemy  made  desperate  attempts  to  break  through 
at  the  point  where  the  cattle  were  stationed,  but  without 
success. 

"It  might  seem  difficult  to  keep  a  large  body  of  rodeo 
cattle  within  the  military  square  during  the  progress  of  a 
battle.  But  the  animals  were  placed  in  charge  of  the 
mounted  Californians  of  Stockton's  force.  They  were 
rancheros  and  were  thoroughly  familiar  with  the  handling 
of  stock ;  they  made  it  their  duty  to  see  that  the  cattle  were 
kept  intact  on  this  occasion.  The  creatures  gradually  be- 
came accustomed  to  movements  of  the  army,  and  were  held 
in  place  even  during  the  discharge  of  cannon  and  small 
arms.  Stockton's  infantry  and  artillery  repulsed  the  at- 
tacks, and  he  managed  the  animals  so  well  that  no  part  of 
his   square    was    broken   on   any    side.      The    Californians, 


56 

Ihiding  that  our  army  was  too  powerful  for  them,  finally 
withdrew   from  the  field." 

To  take  up  the  story  from  another  narrator,  previously 
quoted :  "We  encamped  on  the  spot  for  the  night.  The 
next  day  we  met  the  enemy  again  on  the  plains  of  the  Mesa, 
near  the  city.  They  made  a  bold  and  resolute  stand;  tried 
our  lines  on  every  side;  and  maneuvered  their  artillery  with 
much  skill.  But  the  firm  and  steady  courage  with  which 
our  troops  continued  to  defend  themselves,  repelled  their 
attempts  at  a  general  charge,  and  we  found  ourselves  again 
victorious.  We  encamped  again  near  the  battle  ground 
and  on  the  morning  of  the  loth  marched  into  the  city  (of 
Los  Angeles),  while  the  adjacent  hills  were  glistening 
with  the  lances  of  the  enemj'." 

Entrance  Into  Los  Angeles. — "The  army  passed  from 
the  river  into  Main  street,  near  the  old  'Celis  House,' 
thence  up  Main  street  to  the  Plaza.  Two  guns,  with  a 
couple  of  hundred  men,  were  stationed  on  the  hill  over- 
looking Main  street ;  the  rest  quartered  as  comfortably  as 
possible." 

Thus  occurred  the  Battle  of  the  San  Gabriel,  called  by 
the  Californians  Curunga,  and  the  Battle  of  the  Laguna, 
or  the  Mesa,  as  it  is  sometimes  called. 

Uprising  at  Santa  Barbara. — Let  us  now  for  a  brief  time 
leave  Flores  outside  and  the  Americans  in  possession  once 
more  of  Los  Angeles  and  return  to  Colonel  Fremont.  We 
left  him  starting  from  the  North,  with  his  mounted  bat- 
talion, aiming  to  join  forces  with  Stockton  in  the  South. 

But  before  this  history  is  given,  let  me  briefly  recount 
the  events  which  took  place,  in  consequence  of  the  revolt, 
in  Santa  Barbara.  When  Fremont  \vent  up  the  coast  in 
September  he  left  at  Santa  Barbara  ten  men,  at  the  request 
of  the  citizens,  who  felt  they  would  be  safer  with  even  a 
small  guard,  in  the  event  of  any  disorder.  Theodore  Talbot 
was  left  in  charge.     .\  few  days  afterwards  the  news  of  the 


57 

rising  in  Los  Angeles  reached  Santa  Barbara,  and  Talbot 
was  advised  to  leave  or  be  and  his  men  would  be  attacked. 
The  Californians  soon  assembled,  and  a  mounted  force 
of  one  hundred  and  fifty  men,  with  a  written  summons 
from  Flores.  called  upon  them  to  surrender.  They  refused, 
and  determined  to  escape  to  the  mountains  under  cover 
of  night.  They  started, — the  moon  shining — and  soon  ap- 
proached a  small  picket-guard.  This  gave  way  and  let  them 
pass.  "They  then  gained  the  mountains  and  relied  on 
their  rifles  to  keep  off  both  men  and  cavalry.  On  the 
mountain  they  stayed  eight  days,  in  sight  of  Santa  Barbara, 
watching  for  some  American  vessel  to  approach  the  coast. 
They  suffered  greatly  for  want  of  food,  and  attempted  to 
take  cattle  or  sheep  in  the  night,  but  for  want  of  a  lasso, 
could  only  get  a  lean  old  white  mare,  which  was  led  up 
on  the  mountain  and  killed,  and  all  eaten  up.  Despairing 
of  relief  by  sea,  and  certain  that  they  could  not  reach  me 
in  the  North  by  going  through  the  settled  country,  they 
undertook  to  cross  the  mountains  nearly  east,  into  the 
San  Joaquin  Valley,  and  through  the  Tulare  Indians.  Be- 
fore they  left  their  camp  in  the  mountains  the  Californians 
attempted  to  burn  them  out  by  starting  fires  on  the  moun- 
tain around  them,  and  once  sent  a  foreigner  to  urge  them 
to  surrender.  The  enemy  did  not  often  venture  near 
enough  to  be  fired  upon,  but  would  circle  round  on  the 
heights  and  abuse  them.  When  they  had  any  chance  of 
hitting  they  fired,  and  once  saw  a  horse  fall.  It  took  them 
three  days  to  cross  the  first  ridge  of  the  mountains,  during 
which  time  they  had  nothing  but  rosebuds  to  eat.  The 
ascent  was  so  steep,  rocky  and  bush}-,  that  at  one  time  it 
took  them  half  the  night  to  gain  some  three  hundred  yards. 
After  crossing  the  first  mountain  they  fell  in  with  an  old 
Spanish  soldier  at  a  rancho,  who  gave  them  two  horses 
and  some  dried  beef  and  became  their  guide  over  the  inter- 
vening mountains,  about  eighty  miles  wide,  to  the  San  Joa- 


58 

quill  Valley.  Tlicy  followed  that  valley  down  towards  the 
Monterey  settlements,  where  they  joined  me";  says  Fre- 
mont, "being  about  thirty-four  days  from  Santa  Barbara 
and  having  traveled  about  five  hundred  miles." 

l-rciiiont's  March. — At  the  end  of  November,  with  four 
hundred  and  thirty  mounted  and  well  armed  men,  Fremont 
moved  from  the  region  of  San  Juan  Bautista  Mission,  near 
Monterey,  and  took  up  the  line  of  march  for  Los  Angeles. 
Tlie  march  was  made  under  difficult  circumstances.  This 
was  one  of  the  severe  winters.  Snow  fell  deep  on  the 
mountains,  and  in  the  low  country  traveling  in  large  bodies 
of  men  was  made  hard  and  difficult  by  prolonged  easterly 
storms,  during  which  cold  rains  flooded  the  country.  This 
was  the  Avinter  of  the  dreadful  disaster  at  Donner  Lake. 
Consequently  the  poor  fellows  had  a  terrible  journey, 
"Winter  weather  and  cold  rain-storms  for  days  together ; 
the  roads  and  trails  muddy ;  the  animals  weak  for  want  of 
food ;  the  strength  of  the  old  grass  washed  out  by  the 
rains,  and  the  watery  new  grass  without  sustenance.  Many 
of  the  horses,  too  weak  for  use,  fell  out  by  the  way  and 
were  left  behind,  and  part  of  the  battalion  were  soon  on 
foot."  "Their  only  provision  was  the  beef  which  were 
driven  along,  but  this  was  good,  and  the  men  were  in  fine 
healtli.  Only  men  inured  to  such  a  life  could  have  en- 
dured it.  Fremont's  own  men  had  that  long  training,  and 
so,  also,  had  the  emigrants  who  had  joined  them." 

Don  Icsus  Pico. — On  the  14th  of  December,  they  en- 
camped on  the  momitain  near  San  Luis  Obispo.  It  was  a 
rainy  night,  but  at  nine  o'clock  they  stole  upon  the  mission 
buildings,  surrounded  them,  and  captured  the  few  people 
found  there.  The  battalion  was  quartered  in  the  old  mis- 
sion, a  regular  guard  being  placed  over  the  altar  and  church 
property.  Thirty  other  captures  were  made  in  the  cit}', 
among  them  Don  Jesus  Pico,  a  cousin  of  Don  .\ndres 
Pico,  who  had  defeated  Kearny  at  San  Pascual.       Jesus 


59 

Pico  had  broken  his  parole  and  was  at  the  head  of  the 
Californians  at  San  Luis  Obispo.  He  was  brought  before 
a  court-martial  and  sentenced  to  be  shot.  At  the  hour  for 
liis  execution  the  soldiers  were  drawn  up  in  the  plaza.  At 
that  moment  a  lady  in  black,  followed  by  a  group  of  chil- 
dren, entered  the  room  of  Colonel  Fremont,  the  windows  of 
which  overlooked  the  operations  outside.  It  was  the  wife 
of  Pico  who  came  to  plead  for  the  life  of  her  husband. 
Fremont  listened  to  her,  and  then  sent  for  Pico.  "He  came 
in,"  says  the  Colonel,  "with  the  gray  face  of  a  man  expect- 
nig  death,  but  calm  and  brave,  while  feeling  it  so  near. 
He  was  a  handsome  man,  within  a  few  years  of  forty, 
with  black  eyes  and  black  hair.  I  pointed  through  the 
window  to  the  troops  paraded  in  the  square.  He  knew  why 
they  were  there.  'You  were  about  to  die,'  I  said,  'but  your 
wife  has  saved  you.     Go  and  thank  her !' 

"He  fell  on  his  knees,  made  on  his  fingers  the  sign  of 
the  cross,  and  said:  'I  was  to  die — I  had  lost  the  life  God 
gave  me — you  have  given  me  another  life.  I  devote  the 
new  life  to  you!'     And  he  did  it  faithfully." 

Pico  accompanied  Fremont  on  his  march  south,  and  re- 
mained with  him  until  he  left  California. 

Fremont  at  Santa  Barbara. — On  Christmas  Eve  the  bat- 
talion encamped  on  the  ridge  of  Santa  Ynez  behind  Santa 
Barbara.  "The  morning  of  Christmas  broke  in  a  darkness 
of  southeasterly  storm  with  torrents  of  cold  rain  which 
swept  the  rocky  face  of  the  precipitous  mountain  down 
which  v.-e  descended  to  the  plain.  All  traces  of  trails  were 
washed  away  by  the  deluge  of  water  and  pack  animals 
<lici  over  the  rocks  and  fell  down  the  precipices  blinded  by 
the  driving  rain.  In  the  descent  over  a  hundred  horses 
were  lost.  At  night  we  halted  in  the  timber  at  the  foot 
of  the  mountain,  the  artillery  and  baggage  strewed  along  our 
track  as  on  the  trail  of  a  defeated  army.  The  stormy  day 
was   followed   by   a  bright  morning,   with   a  welcome   sun, 


and  galhcring  oiirsclvcb  into  an  appearanLc  uf  order  we 
made  our  way  into  the  town.  There  was  nothing  to  oppose 
us,  and  notliing  to  indicate  liostility,  the  Californian  troops 
having  been  drawn  together  in  a  main  body  near  Los  An- 
geles." 

They  remained  for  a  few  days  at  Santa  Barbara,  and 
iicre  an  aged  Spanish  lady,  Bernarda  Ruiz,  begged  audience 
and  urged  Fremont,  in  dealing  with  the  recalcitrant  Cali- 
fornians,  to  make  such  terms  with  them  as  should  lead  to 
him  that  "here,"'  says  the  Colonel,  "began  the  capitulation 
enduring  peace.  This  conversation  had  such  an  effect  upon 
of  Cahuenga." 

The  march  was  resumed,  the  battalion  being  flanked  as  it 
passed  through  the  Rincoii,  a  defile  about  fifteen  miles 
south  of  Santa  Barbara,  by  a  gunboat,  under  command  of 
Lieutenant  Selden,  which  had  been  sent  by  Commodore 
Stockton  to  render  aid  if  necessary.  The  Commodore  also 
sent  from  camp  at  San  Luis  Rey,  by  way  of  San  Diego,  a 
letter  to  Fremont  urging  him  not  to  fight  the  Califomians, 
if  possible,  until  both  forces  were  united.  This  letter, 
dated  January  3,  1874,  was  brought  by  Captain  Hamlyn, 
master  of  the  vessel  Stonington,  who  had  landed  at  San 
Buenaventura,  which  is  at  the  southern  end  of  the  Rincon 
pass,  and  had  finally  reached  Fremont  on  the  morning  of 
January  9,  1847,  at  his  camp,  "The  Willows,"  below  the 
Rincon. 

On  the  morning  of  the  12th  of  Januarj-,  Fremont  entered 
the  pass  of  San  Bernardo,  where  the  enemy  was  expected, 
and  in  the  afternoon  encamped  at  the  mission  of  San  Fer- 
nando, the  residence  of  Andres  Pico,  who  was  now  com- 
mander of  the  Californians.  General  Flores,  after  the 
defeat  of  the  battle  of  ^lesa,  fled,  with  fort}'  or  fifty  men, 
towards  Sonora,  going  by  w^ay  of  the  San  Gorgonio  Pass 
and  the  Colorado  River.  He  was  doubtless  urged  to  this 
step  by  Stockton's  response  to  his  commissioners,  sent  on 


6t 

the  8th  of  January,  with  a  flag  of  Irucc,  to  make  a  "treaty 
of  peace."  He  replied  that  he  could  not  recognize  Jose  M. 
Flores,  "who  had  broken  his  parole,  as  an  honorable  man, 
or  as  one  having  any  rightful  authority,  or  worthy  to  be 
treated  with  ;  that  he  was  a  rebel  in  arms,  and  if  I  caught 
him,   1   would  have  him  shot/' 

Capitulation  at  Cahuoiga. — Not  aware  of  this  attempt 
at  negotiations,  Fremont  met  representatives  of  the  Cali- 
fornians  sent  to  him  by  Andres  Pico  on  the  morning  df 
January  12,  1847,  and  granted  a  stay  of  hostilities,  and 
permission  for  the  Californians  to  move  their  wounded  to 
the  mission  of  San  Fernando,  and,  also,  if  they  chose, 
their  whole  camp,  pending  negotiations  for  a  peaceful  set- 
tlement of  the  disturbances.  Fremont  felt  it  was  perfectly 
in  his  province  to  make  such  a  settlement,  as  he  was,  by 
order  of  Commodore  Stockton,  Military  Governor  of  Cali- 
fornia. A  preliminary  meeting  was  held  at  which  Fremont 
and  Pico  and  Francisco  de  la  Guerra  discussed  matters. 
The  "cessation  of  hostilities"  proclamation  was  the  result. 
Commissioners  were  then  appointed  on  both  sides,  they 
met  and  a  capitulation  was  agreed  upon.  P.  B.  Reading, 
major;  Louis  McLane,  Jr.,  commanding  artillery;  William 
H.  Russell,  ordnance  officer,  were  the  three  commissioners 
appointed  by  Fremont,  and  Jose  Antonio  Carillo,  coman- 
dante  de  esquadron  ;  Augustin  Olivera,  disputado,  were  the 
commissioners  of  Pico.  By  the  articles  the  Californians 
were  "guaranteed  protection  of  life  and  property,  whether 
on  parole  or  otherwise,"  provided  they  "deliver  up  their 
artillery  and  public  arms,  return  peaceably  to  their  homes, 
conform  to  the  laws  and  regulations  of  the  United  States, 
and  not  again  take  up  arms  during  the  war  between  the 
United  States  and  Mexico,  but  will  assist  and  aid  in  placing 
the  country  in  a  state  of  peace  and  tranquillity." 

The  capitulation  was  mutually  signed  by  the  commis- 
sioners  and   approved   by   both    Fremont    and    Pico.      This 


Padre  Junipcro  Scrra. 


6i 

ended  hostilities  and  left  California  peaceably  in  posses- 
sion of  the  United  Stales  to  be  finally  secured  by  the 
treaty  of  Gnadaloupe  Hidalgo   in   1848. 

There  are  those  who  have  sought  to  cast  reflections  upon 
Fremont  for  opening  up  negotiations  with  the  Californians. 
I  am  assured  these  reflections  are  unjust,  antl  am  of  the 
opinion  that  Fremont  was  already  convinced  by  his  con- 
versations with  Jesus  Pico  and  others  of  the  Californians 
with  whom  he  had  come  in  contact,  that,  if  reasonable  ap- 
portunity  were  afforded  them,  they  would  cease  all  hos- 
tilities. With  that  keen  foresight,  even  his  bitterest  ene- 
mies credit  him  with  possessing,  he  determined  to  embrace 
the  opportunity  offered.  Even  Josiah  Royce  in  his  "Cali- 
fornia" thus  commends  his  action.  He  says :  ''The  gallant 
leader  of  the  battalion  was  bold  enough  to  pardon,  alto- 
gether, the  Californian  chiefs,  saying  nothing  of  the  broken 
paroles.  His  act  was  as  generous  as  it  was  politic,  and  it 
had  for  him  the  advantage  also  of  redounding  to  his  per- 
sonal glory,  since  in  performing  it  he  somewhat  exceeded 
the  authority  that  even  Stockton  might  be  supposed  to 
have  given  (so  long  as  the  latter  was  actually  carrying  on 
the  war),  and  yet  did  so  in  the  obvious  interests  of  hu- 
manity and  good  order." 

On  the  15th  of  January  Stockton  wrote  to  the  Hon. 
George  Bancroft,  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  particulars  of 
the  capitulation  and  in  his  letter  said :  "Although  I  re- 
fused to  do  it  myself,  still  I  have  thought  it  best  to  approve 
of  it." 

Frciiiont  in  Los  Angeles. — The  next  day,  January  16, 
1847,  Fremont  was  duly  appointed  by  Stockton,  Governor 
of  California,  establishing  his  headquarters  in  a  two- 
story  adobe  building  that  stood  at  the  corner  of  Aliso 
and  Los  Angeles  streets.  "This  building,  at  the  time  was 
the  best  known  in  town,  for,  as  one  old  settler  said,  'Fre- 
mont always  would  have  the  best  of  everything.'  " 


64 


f)]]  lliis  (lay,  too,  an  additional  article  was  added  to  the 
treaty  of  capitulation,  cancelling  all  paroles,  whether  of 
tlie  United  States  or  of  the  Mexicans. 

From  this  time  forward  civilization  had  advanced  rap- 
idly. Governor  Fremont,  Sn  June,  1847,  yielding  to  the 
pressure  brought  to  bear  upon  him,  set  out  for  the  East, 
where,  as  is  well  known,  he  was  ordered  under  arrest  for 
alleged  insubordination.  At  his  court-martial  he  was  con- 
demned on  the  technical  charge,  but  the  country  has  never 
believed  that  he  could  have  done  other  than  he  did  under 
the  circumstances.  Colonel  Mason  was  appointed  gov- 
ernor, and,  amid  the  succeeding  political  conflicts,  un- 
avoidable in  the  change  of  government,  the  settlement  of 
the  land  grants,  the  greed  for  the  newly  discovered  gold, 
etc..  displayed  a  firmness  and  good  judgment  that  have 
won  him  much  deserved  praise. 

In  May,  1849,  General  Riley  succeeded  Colonel  Mason  as 
Governor;  a  constitutional  convention  assembled  September 
3,  at  Monterey;  a  constitution  was  adopted;  ratified  by 
the  people,  unanimously,  November  13 ;  the  new  Governor, 
Burnett,  installed  in  office;  and  on  September  9,  1850,  Cali- 
fornia was  duly  received  by  Congress  into  the  growing 
number  of  States. 


Burros,  packed,  ready  for  the  Trail. 


CHAPTER  III. 

THE     MISSIONS     OF     SOUTHERN     CALIFORNIA. 

Pathos,  tragedy,  comedy,  courage,  heroism,  aspiration, 
conflict,  triumph,  defeat,  despair,  loss  are  all  written  in  un- 
fading letters  across  the  horizon  of  the  Spanish  mission- 
ary enterprises  of  Southern  California.  Ignatius  Loyola 
was  not  more  devoted  to  his  order  and  the  Jesus  he  believed 
in,  than  Junipero  Serra  and  his  coadjutors  were  in  their 
mission  work  and  the  Jesus  they  sought  to  present  to  the 
aborigines  of  this  sun-lit  but  ignorance-cursed  region. 
Elsewhere  I  have  spoken  of  the  emotions  the  sight  of  the 
ruined  adobe  structures  the  mission  fathers  left  should 
awaken  in  the  hearts  of  the  thoughtful  and  earnest.  The 
picture  of  Junipero  Serra  led  Helen  Hunt  Jackson  to  ex- 
claim :  "Ah !  faithful,  noble,  dear  old  face ;  what  an  unsel- 
fish, devoted  life  you  led !  All  I  ask  is  to  be  permitted  to 
meet  you  in  the  other  world." 

These  ruined  churches,  then,  are  beautiful  and  worthy 
reminders  of  beautiful  and  worthy  lives, — lives  consecrated 
for  the  uplifting  of  those  who  knew  not  the  joys  of  the 
true  Christian  believer. 

It  will  be  impossible,  of  course,  in  the  brief  space  of  a 
few  pages,  to  give  such  full  and  complete  accounts  of  the 
founding  and  history  of  the  missions  as  both  author  and 
reader  would  like.  To  the  interested  reader  the  author 
must  refer  him  to  his  large  and  beautifully  illustrated  work 
on  the  missions  now  in  course  of  preparation,  and  which 
will  very  shortly  be  published. 

Junipero  Serra. — Junipero  Serra  was  undoubtedly  the 
prime  spirit  and  mover  in  the  foundation  of  the  Alta  Cali- 


06         • 

foniia  missions.  To  the  early  Mexicans  California  was 
divided  into  two  parts, — Baja  and  Alia.  Maja,  or  lower, 
California,  was  that  portion  of  the  country  below  San 
l3icgo,  which  forms  the  Peninsula,  and  which  is  still  the 
])ropcrty  of  the  Rcpuljlic  of  Mexico.  Alta,  or  upper  Cali- 
fornia, is  the  section  now  belonging  to  the  United  States. 
Long  before  Serra's  time  the  Jesuits  had  founded  missions 
in  Arizona  and  Baja  California,  but,  when  they  were  ex- 
pelled from  the  country,  the  Franciscans  were  oflfered  their 
care,  and  also  the  privilege  of  founding  more  missions  in 
Alta  California,  which  the  secular  government  of  Spain 
wished  to  control  in  order  to  prevent  the  encroachments 
southward  of  the  Russians,  who  were  already  masters  of 
Alaska.  The  College  of  San  Fernando,  in  the  City  of 
Mexico,  was  given  charge  of  mission  affairs,  and  the  eccles- 
iastical board  there  speedily  fixed  upon  Padre  Junipero 
Serra  as  the  one  man  of  all  others  to  become  the  president 
of  the  existing  missions,  with  authority  to  go  to  Alta  Cal- 
ifornia and  found  others. 

Accordingly,  when  all  was  ready,  Serra  started  his  expe- 
dition to  Lower  California.  Here,  messengers  from  the 
King  of  Spain  met  him,  with  the  royal  command  to  the 
Visitor  General  Galvez,  to  "send  a  maritime  expedition  to 
colonize  the  harbor  of  ^ilonterey,  or  at  least  that  of  San 
Diego."  After  due  consultation  with  Galvez,  Serra  and  he 
decided  that  there  should  be  a  land,  and  a  sea  expedition, 
which  should  meet  and  aid  each  other  in  the  harbor  of 
San  Diego.  They  "agreed  that  three  missionaries  should 
go  with  the  two  packet  boats  and  two  missionaries  with 
the  first  portion  of  the  land  expedition,  and  afterward  the 
president  (Serra)  should  leave  with  the  second  division. 
They  resolved  to  found  three  missions  in  upper  California : 
one  at  San  Diego,  another  at  Monterey,  and  a  third  between 
the  two  places,  the  latter  to  be  called  San  Buenaventura." 
The  Mission  Expeditions. — On  the  Qth  of  January,  1769, 


67 

the  ship  San  Carlos  set  sail,  Padre  Farron,  one  of  Serra's 
missionaries,  being  of  the  party. 

On  the  15th  of  February  the  San  Antonio  sailed  from 
Cape  San  Lucas,  and  on  the  i6th  of  June  still  another  boat, 
the  San  Jose,  sailed. 

The  land  division  of  the  expedition  was  also  divided  into 
two  parts.  One  section,  commanded  by  Rivera,  a  captain 
of  the  Company  of  Uuera  (or  leather  jacket)  left  Santa 
Ana  Harbor  in  Lower  California  in  September,  1768.  Af- 
ter a  long  delay  at  Vellicata  in  Lower  California,  fifty  days' 
journeying  brought  them  to  San  Diego,  and  there  they 
found  the  San  Carlos  and  the  San  Antonio  at  anchor.  The 
San  Jose  never  did  appear  and  was  undoubtedly  lost  at  sea 
with  all  hands. 

Before  starting  himself  in  the  second  section  of  the  land 
expedition  Serra  founded  the  Mission  of  San  Fernando 
at  Vellicata  and  then,  accompanied  by  Portala,  the  royally 
appointed  Governor  of  California,  the  expedition  started. 
After  fort}^-six  days'  journey  from  the  newly  founded  San 
Fernando  chapel,  on  Jul}'  i,  1769,  Serra  reached  San  Diego. 

On  the  i6th  of  July,  1769,  with  appropriate  ceremonies, 
the  founding  of  the  San  Diego  Mission  took  place.  The 
others  followed  in  rapid  succession.  Serra,  after  a  life 
of  unexcelled  devotion  and  heroism,  passed  away  in  the 
San  Carlos  Mission,  Monterey,  which  he  founded,  on  the 
28th  day  of  August,  1784. 

San  Diego  Mission. — This  was  the  first  of  the  Upper 
California  missions.  It  was  founded  July  16,  1769,  by 
Padre  Junipero  Serra.  The  circumstances  surrounding 
the  foundation  were  of  an  especially  affecting  and  interest- 
ing character.  It  was  the  beginning  of  the  realization  of  the 
Padre's  fondest  hopes.  His  zealous  heart  was  full  of  en- 
thusiasm when  he  started,  but  on  his  arrival  at  San  Diego 
the  horrible  condition  of  the  crews  of  the  two  vessels  that 
avv'aited  his  arrival  was  such  as  to  dampen  the  most  fiery 


68 

ardor  and  quell  the  enthusiasm  of  the  most  dauntless. 
Insufficient  and  unwholesome  food,  bad  water,  poor  sani- 
tary conditions,  a  four  months'  journey  had  produced 
scurvy  on  board  both  ships,  and  fifteen  days  after  Junipero's 
arrival  twenty-nine  sailors  and  soldiers  were  dead.  "The 
Indians,  who  at  first  had  been  gentle  and  friendly,  grew 
each  day  more  insolent  and  thievish,  even  tearing  off  the 
clothes  of  the  sick  lying  helpless  in  the  tents  or  tulc  huts 
on  the  beach." 

Yet;  with  zeal  kept  ablaze  by  faith  and  trust  in  God, 
Serra  sent  off,  on  the  14th  of  July,  Portala,  the  Governor, 
and  Father  Crcspi,  to  find  Monterey,  and  two  days  later, 
with  a  cross  erected,  facing  the  port,  and  in  a  rude  booth 
of  branches  and  reeds,  in  the  presence  of  sailors  and  sol- 
diers, Serra  said  mass.  The  bell  was  rung  hanging  from 
the  boughs  of  a  tree ;  the  whole  congregation  sang  the 
"Veni  Creator" ;  the  royal  standard  was  flung  to  the  breeze ; 
the  water  was  blessed ;  the  awe-stricken  Indians  watching 
the  mysterious  proceedings  with  profound  attention  and 
astonished  curiosity;  firearms  were  discharged  to  supply 
the  want  of  an  organ,  and  "smoke  of  muskets  ascended  for 
incense" ;  and  thus  the  ceremony  was  performed  and  the 
country  taken  "for  God  and  the  King  of  Spain." 

Murder  at  San  Diego. — On  the  15th  of  August,  Padre 
Junipero  had  just  finished  the  celebration  of  the  mass, 
when  some  Indians,  armed  with  arrows,  wooden  sabres 
and  clubs,  fell  upon  the  missionaries.  The  corporal,  with 
the  four  soldiers  who  had  been  left  as  a  guard,  at  once  gave 
the  alarm  and  began  to  fire  on  their  attackers,  when 
Father  Vizcaino,  raising  the  mat  of  his  hut  to  see  if  anyone 
was  killed,  received  an  arrow  wound  in  the  hand.  At  tlie 
same  moment  his  servant,  named  Jose  Maria,  rushed  in, 
and,  falling  at  his  feet,  cried:  "Father,  absolve  me;  I 
have  been  mortally  wounded."  The  father  did  so,  and  in 
a  few  moments  the  soul  of  the  first  Southern  California 


69 

martyr  had  winged  its  flight  to  heaven.  How  many  of  the 
Indians  were  killed  is  not  known,  but  in  a  few  days  they 
brought  their  wounded  to  be  cared  for  at  the  mission.  For- 
tunately Padre  Serra  was  unhurt,  and  by  the  exercise  of 
that  loving  patience  and  forbearance  which  characterized 
his  life  he  soon  won  the  regard  of  the  Indians. 

On  January  24,  1770,  the  expedition  which  had  gone 
north  to  found  other  missions,  returned.  Governor  Por- 
tala,  seeing  the  supply  of  provisions  rapidly  diminishing, 
saddened  the  heart  of  Serra  by  informing  him  that  if  he 
did  not  receive  fresh  supplies  from  San  Bias  before  the 
19th  of  March  he  would  be  compelled  to  abandon  the  San 
Diego  mission  and  return.  As  the  fateful  day  approached, 
and  no  vessel  came,  despondency  fell  upon  the  priests, 
but  Serra  continued  to  pray,  and  we  are  told  that  "towards 
evening  the  fog,  which  had  enshrouded  the  bay  all  day, 
vanished,  and,  lo !  far  away,  a  ship  was  descried  approach- 
ing the  harbor,  but  was  soon  again  lost  to  view."  This  ap- 
parition, or  whatever  it  was,  induced  Portala  to  hold  out 
a  little  longer,  and  four  days  later  the  "San  Antonio"  en- 
tered the  bay  amid  rejoicings  and  pious  acclaim.  These 
events  transpired  at  the  spot  where  the  ruins  of  the  old 
presidio  are  now  found,  near  the  "Old  Town"  of  San  Diego. 
When  the  presidio  and  other  military  buildings  were  com- 
pleted Padre  Serra  moved,  in  1774,  the  mission  two  leagues 
away,  to  a  place  called  "Nipaguay." 

Murder  of  Padre  Jayme  at  San  Diego. — Five  years  later, 
the  new  site  was  watered  with  the  blood  of  a  murdered 
missionary.  On  the  3rd  of  October,  1775,  Fathers  Luis 
Jaymes  and  Vincent  Fuster  baptized  sixty  Indians.  This  so 
aroused  the  enmity  of  some  of  the  Indian  leaders  that, 
emboldened  by  the  six  miles  distance  of  the  presidio,  there 
assembled  a  large  number,  over  1,000,  Indians  of  different 
tribes,  and,  on  the  night  of  the  4th  of  November,  marched 
to  the  attack.     One  party  was  to  destroy  the  mission,  and 


70 

the  Dtlicr  tlic  presidio.  Their  plans  were  well  laid.  The 
mission  building  was  fired,  the  church  pillaged,  and,  armed 
with  arrows  and  macanas,  a  kind  of  wooden  sword  sliap<  ' 
like  a  scimitar,  they  proceeded  to  hunt  for  the  missionari( 
Father  Vincent  Fustcr  escaped,  but  Father  Jaymc,  who 
slept  in  another  building,  seeing  the  conflagration,  rushed 
out,  and  meeting  a  large  group  of  Indians  greeted  them 
with  the  usual  salutation:  "Let  us  love  God,  my  children." 
Immediately  they  rushed  upon  him  with  wolf-like  ferocity, 
dragged  him  to  the  creek,  and,  after  stripping  him  of  his 


gown,  they  beat  him,  shot  him  with  many  arrows,  an ': 
after  he  was  dead,  bruised  and  mutilated  him  until  nothing 
but  his  hands  were  recognizable. 

Until  daj-break  these  howling  and  ferocious  devils  sur- 
rounded the  remaining  priest,  soldiers  and  laborers,  every 
now  and  again,  the  corporal,  who  was  a  sharpshooter, 
killing  or  wounding  one  of  them. 

In  the  morning  they  fled,  when  the  Christian  Indian-, 
who  had  been  confined  during  the  attack,  came  out  and 
with  tears  and  lamentations  discovered  their  dead  priest. 
The  blacksmith  also  was  killed,  and  five  days  later  the 
carpenter,  Ursulino,  died. 

Instead  of  seeking  vengeance  upon  the  bloody  murderers 


7r 

of  his  co-worker,  Padre  Serra  pleaded  with  the  military 
governor,  while  strengthening  their  force  at  San  Diego,  to 
show  clemency  to  the  misguided  Indians.  The  Viceroy 
gave  instructions  to  that  effect,  so,  instead  of  provoking 
these  ignorant  savages  to  greater  cruelties  and  outbreaks, 
Padre  Serra  was  left  to  win  them,  in  his  own  way,  by  ten- 
derness and  love.  Orders  were  also  given  to  rebuild  the 
T^Iission  of  San  Diego,  which  was  accordingly  accomplished 
in  1776-7,  twelve  soldiers  being  detailed  by  Captain  Rivera 
as  a  guard  to  protect  the  workmen  engaged  upon  it.  The 
building  was  dedicated  November  12,  1777,  but  was  not 
entirely  completed   until   the  year   1784. 

In  1804  a  new  church  was  built,  and  in  1813  the  struc- 
ture was  erected,  the  ruins  of  which  arrest  the  attention 
of  the  traveler  to-day.  This  building  was  dedicated  No- 
vember 12,  1813,  with  great  solemnity.  It  stands  on  an 
eminence,  at  a  point  in  the  valley  of  the  San  Diego  River 
which  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  entire  valley  to  the 
sea  on  the  one  side,  and  of  the  mountains  on  the  other. 
The  main  building  is  about  ninety  feet  long,  and  extends 
from  north  to  south,  the  main  entrances  being  at  the  south 
end.  The  massive  walls,  about  four  feet  in  thickness,  are 
built  of  adobe,  the  doorways  and  windows  being  made  of 
burnt  tiles. 

"According  to  the  census  reported  to  the  Viceroy  in  the 
year  1800,  the  Presidio  of  San  Diego  had  a  population  of 
167,  consisting  of  officers  and  soldiers,  and  their  families. 
They  possessed  820  head  of  cattle  and  403  head  of  horses. 
The  mission  then  had  within  its  premises  an  Indian  popu- 
lation of  1,501,  and  the  Fathers  owned  6,000  head  of  cattle 
and  about  the  same  number  of  sheep,  and  877  head  of 
horses.  In  that  year  (1800)  the  Mission  raised  3,000  bushels 
of  wheat  and  2,000  bushels  of  barley.  In  1827  the  Mission 
possessed  17,284  head  of  sheep,  9,120  head  of  cattle  and 
1,123  head  of  horses." 


« 


Ruined  Corridors  at  San  Juan  Capistrano. 


72> 

By  the  decree  of  Secularization  all  this  was  scattered 
and  now  nothing"  but  the  dilapidated  ruins  remain  of  the 
once  proud  and  flourishing  mission  of  San  Diego. 

To  reach  the  mission  the  visitor  can  proceed  direct  to 
San  Diego,  on  the  Surf  Line  of  the  Santa  Fe  System,  and 
there  engage  a  carriage  to  drive  him  out.  The  distance  is 
some  five  or  six  miles  from  the  city.  A  good  pedestrian 
may  ride  on  either  the  Santa  Fe  or  the  "Old  Town"  rail- 
way from  San  Diego  to  the  Old  Town,  or  on  the  electric 
car  to  its  terminus,  then  from  either  of  these  places  walk 
to  the  Mission  and  back,  but  a  good  day  is  required  for 
such   a   iournev. 


San  Carlos  Borromeo. — The  next  Mission  to  be  founded 
was  that  of  San  Carlos  Borromeo,  at  Monterey,  on  June 
3,  1770. 

San  Antonio  Dc  Padua. — On  July  14,  1771,  San  Antonio 
de  Padua,  the  third  Mission,  was  established. 

San  Gabriel  Archangel. — Two  months  later,  viz.,  on  Sep- 
tember 8,  1871,  San  Gabriel  Archangel  was  founded.  Pa- 
dres Benito  Cambon  and  Angel  Somero  were  of  the  new 
band  of  missionaries  who  had  been  sent  on  from  Mexico 
to  aid  Padre  Serra,  and  they  left  San  Diego  August  6, 
1 771,  accompanied  by  ten  soldiers  and  muleteers,  to  found 
a  mission  which  they  intended  to  dedicate  to  their  patron 
Saint,   San   Gabriel  the  Archangel.     For  days   they  moved 


"I 

slowly    tlirdiigli    a    cfxmlry    dcnsfly    covi-rcd    with    cactu-. 
until  tlicy  reached  the  hanks  of  the  Santa  Ana  river,  when 
it  liad  I)een  determined  hy  tlic  Governor,  when  the  first  ex 
pedition   ])asscd   through   the    region,   a   mission    should   Ic 
established.     After  a  careful  search,  and  the  fathers  find- 
ing no  suitable  site,  they  moved  further  north  and  west  to 


f . 


--^i^^^    i..:s_ 


-y^AL^i^ 


the  San  IMiguel  River,  now  known  as  the  San  Gabriel,  and 
there  founded  the  Mission.  The  original  site  is  still  marked 
by  a  few  adobe  ruins,  and  can  be  reached  by  driving  from 
Los  Angeles,  or,  better  still,  Whittier  or  Rivera.  The  lo- 
cation at  that  time  was  known  as  the  Indian  village  of 
Sihanga.  About  the  year  1775,  the  erection  of  the  present 
building  was  begun  and  the  old  Mission  deserted.     It  wa- 


75 


fully  Iwenty-five  years  before  it  was  completed,  together 
with  the  commodious  residence  of  the  Padres,  and  then 
more  than  4,000  Indian  neophytes  had  been  baptized.  The 
first  baptism  of  an  Indian  child  was  on  November  27,  1771. 
In  two  years  the  number  of  converts  was  T>)^  and  in  1784 
there  were  1,019  enrolled  on  the  baptismal  register. 

Here    in    1806,    came    from    San    Fernando,    Padre    Jose 
Maria  Zalvidea,  under  whose  wise  and  skilful  management 


'^SJk^ 


Ruined  Corridors  at  San  Juan  Capistrano. 

the  mission  rapidly  grew  into  great  prosperity  and  wealth. 
This  was  the  Padre,  whose  name  "H.  H.,"  the  writer  of 
'"Ramona"  incorrectly  caught,  and,  spelling  it  Salvierderra, 
made  him  her  priestly  hero. 

The  building  is  a  quaint  old  structure,  without  nuich 
architectural  pretension,  with  a  peculiar  "bell  tower,"  in 
which  four  bells  are  now  hung,  one  of  them  not  being 
as  perfect  as  in  ''days  of  yore."     The   Padre's  house  is   a 


cozy  little  cottage  to  the  left  of  the  Mission,  as  one  stands 
facing  it,  and  is  beautifully  embowered  in  sweet  flowers. 

San  Gabriel  still  has  a  fairly  large  population  of  Mexi- 
cans, consequently,  and  for  the  religious  benefit  of  the  old 
California  families  who  are  of  that  ancient  faith,  the 
Church  is  kept  in  a  good  state  of  repair,  and  regular  service 
conducted  therein. 

San  Gabriel  is  reached  in  a  variety  of  ways.  One  may 
easily  drive  from  Los  Angeles  or  Pasadena  and  take  in  a 
number  of  other  interesting  historical  scenes  on  the  way. 
The  Southern  Pacific  R.  R., — the  main  line  from  Los  An- 
geles to   Yuma, — passes  the  old   Mission,  and  the  ancient 

., ^^f 


'■■■■ ^'-::riS^^y^^ 

structure  is  but  a  few  minutes'  walk  from  the  depot.  The 
distance  from  Los  Angeles  is  9  miles,  the  fare,  single  trip, 
30  cents;  round  trip,  55  cents,  and  a  little  over  half  a  day 
will  suffice  for  the  journey  and  return.  The  easiest  way 
is  to  take  the  cars  of  the  Pacific  Electric  Railway  from 
cor.  6th  and  Main  streets,  Los  Angeles.  Round  trip,  30 
cents. 

San  Luis  Obispo  dc  Tolosa. — Just  one  year  later  (less 
one  week),  after  the  founding  of  San  Gabriel  Archangel, 
viz.,  on  September  i,  1772,  Padre  Serra  established  the 
Mission  of  San  Luis  Obispo  de  Tolosa. 

San  Francisco  dc  Asis. — Four  years  and  sixteen  days 
elapsed  after  the  founding  of  San  Luis  Obispo,  and  then 


n 

the  Mission  of  San  Francisco  de  Asis,  on  Oct.  9,  1776,  was 
formally  dedicated. 

San  Juan  Capistrano. — A  month  later,  Nov.  i,  1776,  San 
Juan  Capistrano  was  founded  by  President  Serra,  aided 
by  Padres  Mugartegui  and  Amurrio.  In  the  preceding 
year  Padres  Lasuen  and  Amurrio  with  a  few  soldiers  were 
sent  out  from  Monterey  to  seek  a  location  for  the  estab- 
lishment of  a  new  Mission,  to  bear  the  name  of  San  Juan 
Capistrano.  Padre  Amurrio  remained  at  San  Gabriel,  his 
coadjutor  going  on  alone,  and  on  October  30th,  he  found 
a  desirable  spot,  where  a  cross  was  erected,  a  hut  built  of 
boughs  of  trees,  and  Mass  celebrated.  The  Indians  were 
friendly,  aiding  the  newcomers  in  the  cutting  down  of 
timber  for  the  building,  and  matters  progressed  happily. 
Eight  days  later  Padre  Amurrio  arrived  with  provisions, 
etc.,  from  San  Gabriel,  and  all  were  filled  with  joy  at 
the  happy  inauguration  of  the  new  endeavor.  That  evening, 
however,  terrible  news  was  received  by  messenger  from  San 
Diego.  The  Indians  had  revolted,  slain  Padre  Jayme,  and 
destroyed  the  Mission  buildings.  The  officer  in  charge  of 
the  soldiers  left  immediately  for  San  Diego.  The  Padres 
buried  the  bells,  and  taking  the  other  material  they  had 
with  them  along,  speedily  followed  the .  soldiers.  What 
they  found  at  San   Diego  has  already  been  recounted. 

This  terrible  affair  delayed  the  founding  of  San  Juan 
Capistrano  for  about  one  year.  The  Viceroy  wrote  from 
Mexico,  April  3,  1776,  that  he  had  given  orders  to  his 
officers  to  establish  the  Mission.  Captain  Rivera,  who,  for 
some  reason  seemed  opposed  to  the  establishment  of  the 
new  Mission,  was  ordered,  in  a  subsequent  letter,  to  give 
Padre  Serra  the  help  he  needed,  so  he  detailed  ten  of  the 
military,  and  with  these,  and  accompanied  by  Padres 
Mugartegui  and  Amurrio  "he  proceeded  to  the  place  where 
the  bells  had  been  buried,  and  with  the  usual  ceremonies 
founded  the  Mission  of  San  Juan  Capistrano." 


78 

Scir.i,  with  tin-  ;ii<l  of  ;iii  inicrprotfr,  explained  to  tlic 
Indians  llic  jiin]  n^-t'  uf  tlu-  priests  in  coniinn  aiiKnigst  tlicin, 
and  we  are  lold  tliat,  "wiiile  tlie  Indians  of  the  other  Mis- 
sions were,  in  the  hegiiming,  over-anxions  for  bodily  com- 
forts, tliosc  of  San  Juan  were  solicitous  only  for  baptism, 
asi<ing  it  most  earnestly  from  the  Missionaries,  and  finding 
the  time  required  for  preliminary  instruction  too  long." 

When  Padre  Serra  died  there  were  470  Indian  Christians 
al  tlu'  Mission;  and  the  number  afterwards  increased  so 
rapidly  that  in  three  months  the  Missionaries  baptized  more 
than  they  had  received  before  in  the  past  three  and  a  half 
years. 

The  eartliciuake  of  1812  that  practically  shattered  San 
Luis  Obispo  visited  dire  destruction  upon  the  buildings  of 
San  Juan  Capistrano,  as  well  as  left  its  ruins  full  of  tragic 
memories.  It  was  on  the  morning  of  Dec.  8th  that  the 
catastrophe  happened. 

An  adobe  apartment  close  by  the  Church  fortunately 
escaped  the  general  destruction,  and  in  this  building  the 
Indians  for  many  days  after  the  earthquake  assembled,  and 
the  Mexicans  and  Whites  of  to-day  assemble  and  worship 
on  the  Sabbath  and  special  feast  days. 

It  is  dil^cult  as  one  now  stands  amid  the  bewilderment 
of  ruined  buildings,  corridors  and  houses  to  repeople  the 
place  with  the  scores  of  Indians  who  once  made  this  their 
happy  home,  and  yet,  where  desolation  now  reigns  supreme, 
there  were  once,  a  few  generations  ago,  a  busy  and  active 
people  engaged  in  the-  varied  labors  outlined  in  a  preced- 
ing page. 

Much  work  of  a  preservative  and  restorative  character 
has  been  done  at  San  Juan  Mission  by  the  Landmarks  Club. 

San  Juan  Capistrano  is  59  miles  distant  from  Los  An- 
geles, and  is  reached  on  the  Surf  Line  of  the  Santa  Fe 
route.  The  single  fare  is  $1.90,  round  trip  $3.40.  On  Sun- 
days only,  returning  the  same  day,  a  special  rate  of  $1.50 


79 

1^  siven.  and  going  on  Saturday,  returning  Monday,  the 
round  trip  is  $2.  The  Alendelsohn  Hotel  provides  accom- 
modations for  those  who  desire  to  stay  over  night.  Those 
who  wish  to  make  a  hasty  visit  can  arrange  to  go  down 
from  Los  Angeles  on  their  way  to  San  Diego,  on  the  morn- 
ing train,  obtain  a  stop-over,  visit  the  Mission,  and  then 
proceed  on  the  evening  train. 

Santa  Clara. — Santa  Clara  was  the  next  Mission  founded, 
in  the  year  1777,  by  Padre  Tomas  de  la  Peha,  at  the  head 
of  the  broad  fertile  valley  of  San  Bernardino,  near  San 
Jose,  in  Santa  Clara  County. 

San  Buenaventura. — From  the  very  inception  of  the  Up- 
per California  Mission  project  Serra  had  always  determined 
that  a  Mission  should  be  dedicated  to  San  Buenaventura, 
and  that  it  should  be  located  somewhere  about  midway 
between  San  Diego  and  Monterey.  Again  and  again  had 
lie  urged  its  founding,  and  each  tune  some  obstacle  inter- 
vened to  prevent.  Political  changes  had  also  taken  place 
that  were  not  advantageous  to  the  plans  of  the  good  Padre. 
The  Viceroy  Bucareli,  Avho  had  been  his  good  friend,  died, 
and  henceforth,  Serra  was  to  have  to  deal  with  a  Captain- 
General  of  the  Californians,  instead  of  directly  with  the 
^^iceroy.  In  June,  1779,  he  received  the  information  that 
his  majesty — the  King  of  Spain — had  taken  away  California 
from  the  jurisdiction  of  the  new  Viceroy,  and  appointed 
Don  Teodore  de  Croix,  Captain-General,  and  that  he  would 
reside  in  Sonona.  Don  Felipe  de  Neve  was  the  new  Gov- 
ernor, who  had  taken  Portala's  place,  so  Serra  had  now 
three  officials  to  deal  with.  Many  annoyances  were  the 
result  of  this  new  arrangement,  but,  with  persistent  energy, 
Serra  kept  diligently  working  towards  the  high  and  holy 
end  he  had  in  view.  Letter  after  letter  was  sent  to  the 
new  Viceroy,  and  the  result  was  the  latter  sent  a  letter  to 
Captain-General  de  Croix,  which  had  such  an  effect  upon 
him   that   he   ordered    Rivera    "to   recruit    .seventy-five   sol- 


8o 

dicrs  for  the  establishment  of  a  presidio  and  three  Mis- 
sions in  the  Channel  of  Santa  Barbara.  One  towards  the 
north  of  the  Channel,  which  was  to  be  dedicated  to  the 
Immaculate  Conception ;  one  towards  the  south,  dedicated 
to  San  Buenaventura,  and  a  third  in  the  center  dedicated 
to  Santa  Barbara." 

It  was  Serra's  intense  desire  that  the  whole  of  the  In- 
dians along  the  two  hundred  leagues  of  Pacific  Coast  should 
be  converted,  and  he  argued  that  if  Missions  were  estab- 
lished at  convenient  intervals  of  distance,  they  would  be 
caught  in  one  or  the  other  of  them.  Portala,  after  he  made 
his  trip  from  San  Diego  to  Monterey,  reported  fully  to 
Serra  the  condition  of  the  Indians  he  found  on  the  shore 
of  the  Channel  Coast.  How  that  they,  by  means  of  pic- 
tures made  in  the  sand,  showed  that  vessels  had  been 
there,  and  white  men,  with  beards,  also  had  visited  them; 
thus,  undoubtedly,  recalling  the  traditions  of  the  Vizcaino 
visit  made  nearly  two  hundred  years  before.  Portala  de- 
scribed their  huts  and  the  arrangement  of  their  villages. 
The  one  he  named  "Assumpta"  was  the  site  of  the  future 
San  Buenaventura.  There,  he  found  the  Indians  more  in- 
dustrious and  athletic,  and  the  women  better  clad,  than 
elsewhere.  They  were  builders  of  well-shaped  pine  canoes, 
and  were  expert  fishermen.  They  were  also  stone-masons, 
using  only  tools  made  of  flint.  Exchanges  were  made  by 
Portala  with  them  of  curious  trinkets  for  highly  polished 
wooden  plates,  which  show'ed  that  they  were  accomplished 
wood  workers.  Each  family  lived  in  its  own  hut,  which 
was  conical  in  shape,  made  of  willow  poles  and  covered 
with  sage  and  other  brush.  A  hole  was  left  in  the  top  for 
the  smoke  to  escape  which  rose  from  the  fire,  always  built 
in  the  center  of  the  hut. 

Reports  such  as  these  had  kept  Serra  in  a  constant  fer- 
ment to  establish  the  long-promised  Mission  there,  so  we 
can  imagine  it  was   with  intense  delight  that  he  received 


a  call  from  Governor  Neve,  who  in  February,  1783,  in- 
formed him  that  he  was  prepared  to  proceed  at  once  to 
the  founding  of  the  Missions  of  San  Buenaventura  and 
Santa  Barbara.  Although  busy  training  his  neophytes,  he 
determined  to  go  in  person  and  perform  the  necessary 
ceremonies.  Looking  about  for  a  padre  to  accompany 
him,  and  all  his  own  coadjutors  being  engaged,  he  be- 
thought him  of  Father  Pedro  Benito  Cambon,  a  returned 
invalided  Missionar}^  from  the  Philippine  Islands  who  was 
recuperating  at  San  Diego.  He  accordingly  wrote  Padre 
Cambon  requesting  him,   if  possible,  to  meet  him  at  San 


j-->Jf'^^>..  , 


Gabriel.  On  his  way  to  San  Gabriel,  Serra  passed  through 
the  Indian  villages  of  the  Channel  region,  and  could  not 
refrain  from  joyfully  communicating  the  news  to  the  In- 
dians that,  very  speedily,  he  would  return  to  them,  and 
establish  Missions  in  their  midst.  I  have  often  wondered, 
and  still  wonder,  what  the  thoughts  of  the  Indians  were, 
as  this  man— benignant,  energetic,  devout — talked  with 
them  and  revealed  his  purposes  towards  them.  Who  can 
tell? 

In  the  evening  of  March  18,  Serra  reached  Los  Angeles, 
and  next  evening,  after  walking  to  San  Gabriel,  weighed 
down  with  his  many  cares,  and  weary  with  his  long  walk, 


82 

lie  still  prcaclicd  an  excellent  sermon,  it  Ijcing  the  feast 
of  the  patriarch  St.  Joseph.  Father  Cambon  had  arrived, 
and  after  due  consultation  with  him  and  the  Governor,  the 
date  for  the  setting  out  of  the  expedition  was  fixed  for 
Tuesday,  March  26th.  The  week  was  spent  in  confirma- 
tion services,  and  other  religious  v/ork,  and,  on  the  date 
named,  after  solemn  mass,  the  party  set  forth.  It  was  the 
most  imposing  procession  ever  witnessed  in  California 
up  to  that  time,  and  called  forth  many  gratified  remarks 
from  Serra.  There  were  seventy  soldiers,  with  their 
captain,  commander  for  the  new  presidio,  ensign,  sergeant, 
and  corporals.  In  full  gubernatorial  dignity,  followed 
Governor  Neve,  with  ten  soldiers  of  the  Monterey  com- 
pany, their  wives  and  families,  servants  and  neoph3^tes. 

At  midnight  they  halted,  and  a  special  messenger  over- 
took them  with  news  which  led  the  Governor  to  return 
at  once  t©  San  Gabriel  with  his  ten  soldiers.  He  ordered 
the  procession  to  proceed,  however,  found  the  San  Buena- 
ventura Mission,  and  there  await  his  return.  Serra  ac- 
cordingly went  forward,  and  on  the  29th  inst.,  arrived  at 
"Assumpta."  Here,  the  next  day,  on  the  feast  of  Easter, 
they  pitched  their  tents,  "erected  a  large  cross  and  prepared 
an  altar  under  a  shade  of  evergreens,"  where  the  venerable 
Serra,  now  soon  to  close  his  life  work,  blessed  the  cross 
and  the  place,  solemnized  mass,  preached  a  sermon  to  the 
soldiers  on  the  Resurrection  of  Christ,  and  formally  dedi- 
cated the  Mission  to  God,  and  placed  it  under  the  patronage 
of  St.  Joseph. 

In  the  earlier  part  of  this  century  the  Mission  began  to 
grow  rapidly.  Padres  Francisco  Dumetz  and  Vicente  de 
Santa  Maria,  who  had  been  placed  in  charge  of  the  Mis- 
sion from  the  first,  were  gladdened  by  many  accessions, 
and  the  Mission  flocks  and  herds  also  increased  rapidly. 
Indeed  we  are  told  that  "in  1802,  Ventura  possessed  finer 
herds  of  cattle  and  richer  fields  of  grain  than  anv  of  her 


83 

contemporaries,  and  her  gardens  and  orchards  were  visions 
of  wealth  and  beauty." 

As  one  looks  at  the  old  walls  he  recalls  when  a  fierce 
battle  raged  around  them.  In  March,  1838,  the  opposing 
forces  of  Carrillo  and  Alvarado  met  there,  and  Laura 
Bride  Powers  in  her  "Story  of  the  Old  Missions  of  Cali- 
fornia," graphically  states  that  "during  the  bombardment 
a  rifleman  stationed  in  the  church  tower  fired  a  deadly 
shot  into  the  ranks  of  the  enemy,  felling  a  leader ;  forth- 
with the  guns  of  the  opposing  forces  bore  down  upon  the 
church,  the  shot  and  shell  beating  against  the  walls  with 
dogged  determination.  The  din  of  battle  over  and  the 
smoke  uplifted,  the  chapel  was  found  to  have  stood  in- 
\incible.  The  heavy  guns,  however,  left  their  marks  upon 
the  whitewashed  walls  in  seams  and  scars,  though  time, 
ere  this,  has  almost  healed  the  wounds  of  battle." 

San  Buenaventura,  or  Ventura,  as  this  modern,  railroad 
age,  has  rechristened  it,  is  on  the  Coast  line  of  the  Southern 
Pacific.  The  distance  from  Los  Angeles  is  83  miles  and 
the  rate  of  fare,  single  trip,  $2.50;  round  trip,  $4.50. 
Special  round  trip  tickets  good  for  going  on  Saturday  and 
returning  Tuesday,  $3.00.  Ventura,  being  the  county  seat, 
has  several  good  hotels,  where  the  visitor  desiring  a  lengthy 
stay  can  be  accommodated. 

Santa  Barbara. — In  April  of  1782,  on  the  return  of  Gov- 
ernor Neve,  a  party  of  sixty  soldiers,  with  their  officers, 
set  forth  to  establish  the  Presidio  and  Mission  of  Santa 
Barbara.  When  about  thirty  miles  north  of  San  Buena- 
ventura, in  a  region  thickly  populated  with  Indians,  they 
found  a  suitable  place  for  a  presidio  near  the  beach,  and 
where  the  shore  "gracefully  curves  and  forms  a  sort  of 
small  bay,  in  which  they  judged  good  anchorage  would 
l)e  found." 

A  large  cross  was  made  and  erected,  a  booth  of  branches 
was  built  for  a  temporary  chapel,  containing  a   rude  table 


84 

for  an  altar,  and  then,  on  the  291  h  of  April,  1782,  the 
Governor  and  soldiers  assisting.  Padre  Serra  celebrated 
Mass,  preached  a  sermon,  after  which  Governor  Neve  took 
possession  of  the  place  in  the  name  of  God  and  the  King 
of  Spain. 

On  the  following  day  they  began  the  erection  of  a 
chapel,  barracks  for  the  soldiers  and  a  storehouse,  Serra 
directing  much  of  the  work  and  giving  spiritual  instruc- 
tions to  the  soldiers  at  the  same  time.  He  waited  a  few 
days,  expecting  the  Mission  would  be  immediately  founded, 
but  in  this  he  was  disappointed.  The  Governor  decided 
that,  for  the  safety  of  all  concerned,  in  a  place  where 
there  were  so  many  Indians,  it  was  essential  that  the 
presidio  be  finished  first,  so,  after  sending  for  a  priest 
from  San  Juan  Capistrano,  Serra  departed  for  Monterey, 
on  foot,  as  usual.  Only  once  again  did  he  see  Santa  Bar- 
bara, and  the  Mission  was  not  yet  founded,  and  full  of 
sadness  he  cried  out  in  bitter  tears :  "Pray  ye,  therefore, 
the  LxDfd  of  the  Harvest,  that  He  send  laborers  into  His 
vineyard."  The  good  padre  died  on  the  28th  of  August, 
1784,  a  little  before  2  o'clock,  p.  m.,  in  the  seventieth  year 
of  his  age. 

Father  Palou,  the  intimate  friend  and  biographer  of 
Serra,  was  now  appointed  President  of  the  Missions,  but 
it  was  not  until  the  15th  of  December,  1786,  when  Padre 
Fermin  Francisco  de  Lasuen  had  succeeded  him  that 
the  Santa  Barbara  Mission  was  founded.  Governor  Pedro 
Pages  had  taken  the  place  of  Governor  Neve,  and  he, 
together  with  a  few  soldiers,  on  the  date  named,  accom- 
panied Padre  Lasuen  to  a  spot  already  chosen,  about  a 
mile  from  the  presidio  and  named  by  the  natives  "Tay- 
nayam,"  and  the  Spaniards  "El  Pedragoso."  and  there, 
with  appropriate  ceremonies,  established  tlic  Mission. 
Padres  Antonio  Paterna  and  Cristobal  Ormas  were  left 
in  charge,  but,  owing  to  a  severe  rainy  season,  no  build- 


85 

ings  were  erected  until  spring  of  the  following  year,  the 
priests  being  sheltered  during  the  meantime  in  the  presidio. 

Several  buildings  were  then  put  up — a  house  for  the 
padres,  a  kitchen,  a  servants'  room,  a  granary,  and  a 
house  for  the  unmarried  women,  and  also  the  first  small 
chapel.  These  were  all  built  of  adobe,  nearly  three  feet 
thick,  with  roofs  of  heavy  rafters,  across  which  long 
poles  or  canes  were  tied,  covered  with  soft  adobe  and  then 
thatched  with  straw.  At  the  end  of  this  year  183  Indians 
were  converted  and  connected  themselves  with  the  Mission. 

The  following  year,  1788,  these  buildings  were  all  tiled, 
others  erected,  and  the  reports  show  the  Indians  increased 
to  307. 

In  1789,  the  second  church  of  the  Mission  was  erected, 
together  with  other  needed  buildings.  In  1793  was  be- 
gun the  erection,  finished  in  1794,  of  a  large  adobe  church, 
containing  six  chapels. 

In  1806,  a  reservoir  of  stone  and  mortar  was  built  for 
storing  water  for  the  gardens  and  orchards.  It  is  still  in 
good  condition  and  is  part  of  the  system  of  the  water 
company  which  now  supplies  the  city  with  water. 

The  following  year  the  padres  built  a  strong  dam  across 
the  "Pedragoso"  creek,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  above  the 
Mission,  from  whence  the  water  could  flow  in  an  open 
aqueduct  to  the  mill  reservoir.  This  mill  and  reservoir 
were  built  at  the  same  time,  behind  the  one  referred  to, 
which  is  still  in  use.  The  mill  is  in  ruins,  and  the  reservoir 
partially  demolished,  but  it  could  easily  be  repaired  and 
made  of  good  service. 

In  1813-14  the  old  church  was  taken  down,  and  a  new 
stone  church  commenced  in  1815.  Five  years  later,  viz., 
on  the  lOth  day  of  September,  1820,  it  was  completed,  and 
amid  the  greatest  rejoicing  and  festivities  ever  indulged  in, 
in  the  country,  it  was  formally  dedicated  and  opened. 

Owing    to    its    prosperity,    Santa    Barbara    was    always 


86 

heavily  taxed  by  the  Government,  even  when  under  the 
rule  of  Spain,  but  when  Mexico  declared  its  independence, 
it  was  pUindered  on  all  sides.  Money  being  scarce  in 
those  days,  as  now,  a  large  amount  of  cattle,  sheep  or  wool 
was  necessary  to  raise  a  small  amount  of  ready  money. 
Hence  when  these  excessive  and  arbitrary  demands  for 
money  were  made,  it  taxed  the  resources  of  the  mission 
to  the  last  degree,  and  often  caused  great  suflfering  to  the 
dependent  Indians. 

Here,  as  elsewhere,  secularization  accomplished,  some- 
what, its  ruinous  work,  although  the  buildings  have  always 
been  in  the  possession  of  the  Franciscans,  except  between 


San  Fernando  Mission. 

the  3'ears  1833  and  1835,  and  even  then  they  were  prac- 
tically under  their  control. 

The  Mission  passed  through  various  vicissitudes,  until 
1853  when,  a  petition  having  been  presented  to  Rome, 
it  was  erected  into  an  Hospice,  as  the  beginning  of  what 
was  to  be  an  Apostolic  College  for  the  education  of  novi- 
tiates. 

Being  ecclesiastically  isolated  from  the  rest  of  the  United 
States,  and  therefore  having  no  means  of  drawing  upon 
other  communities  for  its  novitiates,  the  Minister-General 
petitioned  that  it  be  changed  from  an  independent  college, 
and  annexed  to  the  order  throughout  the  United  States. 
The  petition  was  granted  in  1885,  and  it  now  forms  an 
integral  part  of  the  "Province  of  the  Sacred  Heart  of 
Jesus,"  whose  headquarters  are  in  the  city  of  St.  Louis,  Mo. 


87 


St 


'fS/j*-:-'  / 


"^■'^'^"i^i^UlP* 


Graveyard  and  Mortuary  Chapel  ai  San  Luis  Rey. 

Thus  from  educating  Indians,  the  Mission  of  Santa 
Barbara  has  changed  into  a  College  for  the  education  of 
its  priests,  who  may  be  sent  on  Missions  or  to  supply  any 
house  of  the  Order  as  necessity  may  require.  So  that, 
independent  of  its  history,  the  Alission  is  most  interesting. 
And  when  one  considers  that  history  he  cannot  fail  to  be 
deeply  moved.  As  he  walks  in  the  garden,  where  but 
two  women,  the  Princess  Louise  and  Mrs.  President  Harri- 
son, have  ever  been  permitted  to  enter,  he  thinks  of  the 
noble  workers  of  the  past,  whose  bodies  lie  buried  there. 
And  then  as  'down  through  the  perfume-laden  air,  upon 
the  sunbeam's  ray.  like  a  vision  of  the  Holy  Grail,  floats 
the  white-winged  dove.  Heaven's  emblem  of  purity  and 
peace,"  the  thought  will  come  that  "no  good  and  true  work 
can  ever  be  in  vain."  God  allows  no  good  thing  to  fall, 
and  though  the  Indians  are  scattered,  through  the  wicked 
order  of  Secularization,  He  will  not  suffer  His  own  pur- 
poses to  be  moved. 

The  visitor  will   find   Santa  Barbara  a  most   interesting 


1;^, 


Mission.  The  resident  padres  are  kind  and  obliging,  and 
willingly  afford  every  reasonable  facility  to  tourists  to  see 
all  objects  of  interest. 

Santa  Barbara  is  reached  on  the  Coast  line  of  the 
Southern  Pacific  and  is  five  hours'  journey  from  Los 
Angeles.  Fare,  single  trip,  $3.35 ;  round  trip,  $6.05.  Round 
trip  special,  going  Saturday  good  to  return  the  following 
Tuesday,  $3.50.    Distance,  no  miles. 

La  Purisima  Concepcion. — This  is  the  third  of  the  Chan- 
nel series  of  Missions  so  ardently  desired  by  Padre  Serra. 
Originally  founded,  December  8,  1787,  on  the  Santa  Ynez 
river,  it  was  removed  later  to  Los  Berros,  across  the  river. 
The  building  was  crude  and  unstable,  and,  in  1795,  it  was 
rapidly  falling  into  decay.  Accordingly  a  new  edifice  was 
erected  which  was  dedicated  in  1802. 

Santa  Cruz.  — Santa  Cruz  was  the  next  Mission,  founded 
by  Padre  Lasuen,  on  the  San  Lorenzo  River,  on  Sep- 
tember 25,  1791. 

La  Solcdad. — On  October  9th  of  the  same  year,  a  Mission 
dedicated  to  "Our  Lady  of  Solitude"  was  founded,  but  of 
its  history  little  is  known. 

San  Jose. — On  Trinity  Sunday,  June  11,  1796,  or,  ac- 
cording to  "H.  H."  June  11,  1797,  in  accordance  with 
commands  from  Mexico,  which  declared  there  must  be 
founded  in  California  a  Mission  dedicated  to  St.  Joseph, 
the  spiritual  spouse  of  the  Holy  Virgin,  Padre  Lasuen 
established  this  Mission  and  left  Padres  Isadoro  Bar- 
cenilla  and  Augustin  ^lerino  as  missionaries  in  charge. 

San  Juan  Baufista. — In  June,  1797,  San  Juan  Bautista 
was  founded,  the  present  ruined  church  being  erected 
in  1800. 

San  Miguel. — Two  leagues  west  of  Santa  Barbara,  in 
order  to  be  better  able  to  minster  to  the  Lidians,  President 
Lasuen  and  Padre  Sitjar  selected  a  station  on  a  large 
rancher ia  called  "Sagshpileel,"  and,  on  July  25,  1797,  with 


90 

the  troops  from  tlie  presidio  and  nuniijrrs  of  the  Indians 
as  witnesses,  established  the  Mission  of  San  Miguel,  "the 
most  glorious  prince  of  the  heavenly  militia." 

San  Fernando. — It  was  the  avowed  intention  of  Serra 
to  establish  a  complete  chain  of  Missions  from  San  Diego 
to  Monterey.  President  Lasuen  agreed  with  the  idea, 
and  accordingly  on  September  8,  1/97,  after  having  located 
friars  at  San  Fernando  in  the  dwellings  of  the  ranchero, 
he  dedicated  the  Mission  to  San  Fernando,  King  of  Spain, 
according  to  instructions  he  had  received  from  the  viceroy 
of  Mexico. 

The  present  ruined  adobe  structure  displaced  the  origi- 
nal building  of  rude  wood,  tules  and  brush,  and,  in  i8o6, 
was  dedicated,  with  imposing  ceremonies,  to  King  Fernando 
III.,  of  Spain,  who  was  canonized  in  1671  by  Pope  Clem- 
ent X. 

San  Fernando  Mission  is  located  in  a  most  fertile  valley 
— the  granary  of  Los  Angeles  county,  and  speedily  became 
of  considerable  wealth  and  consequent  importance. 

The  buildings  were  affected  by  the  earthquake  of  1812, 
and  thirty  new  beams  were  added  to  strengthen  the  wall?. 
A  beautiful  tiled  corridor,  and  a  large  fountain  and  basin 
in  the  courtyard  were  built,  the  ruins  of  which  still  remain 
in  picturesque  attractiveness.  Under  this  corridor  on  hot 
days,  and  by  the  side  of  this  fountain  on  cool  evenings, 
the  Padres  walked  and  sat  and  planned  and  studied  and 
prayed,  watching  the  waving  palms,  in  the  distance,  and 
enjoying  the  beautiful  oak  and  alders  close  by.  Even  in 
its  present  ruined  and  dilapidated  condition,  the  semi- 
tropical  trees  and  the  cacti  give  to  San  Fernando  the  ap- 
pearance of  "a  portion  of  Algeria." 

In  1820  the  Mission  was  in  a  flourishing  condition,  her 
vineyards  and  grain  fields  being  quite  extensive.  In  1826  an 
inventory  shows,  besides  large  flocks  and  herds,  that  the 
Padres  had  merchandise  in  their  warehouse  to  the  vahu 


91 


AJolie    toilJinqe. 


of  fifty  thousand  dollars,  besides  ninety  thousand  dollars 
in  specie. 

In  1846  the  Mission  was  sold  by  Pio  Pico  to  Eulogio 
Cells  for  fourteen  thousand  dollars,  for  the  purpose  of 
helping  towards  the  expenses  of  the  war  with  the  United 
States,  although,  at  the  time,  the  conquest  of  California 
was  practically  complete.  The  sale  was  confirmed  by  the 
United  States  Land  Commission,  and  its  Mission  days  were 
ended. 

Today  San  Fernando  Mission  is  in  a  restored  condition. 
It  has  been  preserved  from  utter  ruin  by  the  work  of  the 
Landmarks  Club. 

The  Mission  is  about  14  miles  from  Los  Angeles  and 
is  easily  reached  in  less  than  an  hour  from  that  city  on 
the  main  line  of  the  Southern  Pacific,  going  north.  The 
buildings  are  in  the  valley  about  a  mile  from  the  depot, 
and  the  visitor  can  either  walk  or  secure  a  conveyance  in 
the  town.  Many  people  find  it  more  pleasant  and  agreeable 
to  drive  from  Los  Angeles,  and  it  is  a  very  comfortable 
day's  drive. 

San  Luis  Rey  de  Francia. — In  1798,  on  the  13th  day  of 
June,  President  Lasuen,  assisted  by  Padres  Santiago  and 
Peyri  founded  the   Mission   of   San  Luis  Rey  de   Francia. 


'  'Hjv:^•^psf'^- 


Pi 


93 

In  beauty  of  site,  as  well  as  magniiicence  of  structure,  it  is 
regarded  by  most  people  as  the  "King"  of  the  Mission 
structures  of  California. 

Five  padres,  especially,  in  all  the  older  history  of  the 
Missions,  stand  out  as  the  well-beloved  of  the  Indians, 
and  these  are  Serra,  Palou,  Crespi,  Salvidea,  and  Peyri, 
and  to  the  wonderfully  persuasive  and  gentle  character  of 
the  latter,  is  undoubtedly  owing  the  great  success  of  San 
Luis  Rey  from  its  inception.  Not  only  was  he  possessed 
of  the  qualities  that  endeared  him  to  the  people,  but  he 
was  also  full  of  the  same  zeal  as  Serra,  and  possessed  of 
equal  administrative  ability.  The  structure  he  reared  was 
completed  in  1802. 

It  stands  upon  a  slight  hill,  gently  rolling  upwards  from 
the  river  and  the  valley,  which  is  exceedingly  fertile,  and 
gave  good  pasturage  to  the  flocks  and  herds  of  the  Mission. 
These  doubled  about  every  ten  years.  In  1826,  Peyri  had 
received  into  the  folds  of  the  church  two  thousand,  eight 
hundred  and  sixty-nine  Indians.  "The  Mission  owned 
over  twenty  thousand  head  of  cattle,  and  nearly  twenty 
thousand  sheep.  It  controlled  over  two  hundred  thousand 
acres  of  land,  and  there  were  raised  on  its  fields  in  one 
year  three  thousand  bushels  of  wheat,  six  thousand  of 
barley,  and  ten  thousand  of  corn." 

In  1834,  after  the  Secularization,  San  Luis  Rey  had  an 
Indian  population  of  35,000,  and  possessed  over  24,000  cattle, 
10,000  horses,  and  100,000  sheep.  It  harvested  14,000 
fanegas  (about  an  English  bushel)  of  grain,  and  200 
barrels  of  wine. 

"No  other  Mission  had  so  fine  a  church.  It  was  one 
hundred  and  sixty  feet  long,  fifty  wide,  and  sixty  high, 
with  walls  four  feet  thick.  A  tower  at  one  side  held  a 
belfry  for  eight  bells.  The  corridor  on  the  opposite  side 
had  two  hundred  and  fifty-six  arches.  Its  gold  and  silver 
ornaments  are  said  to  have  been  superb." 


94 

Even  in  its  scnii-niiiK-fl  crmditinn  it  is  majestic  .-iiid  im- 
posing. Over  tlic  chancel  is  a  perfectly-proportioned  dome, 
and  on  eacli  side,  and  over  the  altar,  arc  beautiful  groined 
arches.  Hanging  high  on  the  wall,  on  the  right  side  facing 
the  ai'.dilors,  instead  of  on  the  left,  is  a  Byzantine  wooden 
pulpit,  which  is  reached  by  a  quaint,  narrow  stairway  from 
the  chancel. 

In  189J,  it  was  determined  to  repair  the  Mission  and  have 
it  occupied  by  the  Franciscan  Order,  and  for  this  purpose 
Father  O'Keefc  of  the  Santa  Barbara  Mission,  was  sent 
to  San  Luis  Rey  to  superintend  its  restoration.  For  months 
the  work  had  been  going  forward,  and  on  May  12,  1893,  the 
formal  dedication  of  the  re-established  Mission  occurred 
with  all  due  ceremony.  The  bishop  of  the  diocese  was 
present,  together  with  the  Vicar-General  of  the  Franciscan 
Order  from  Mexico,  and  other  dignitaries.  The  ceremonies 
were  as  near  as  could  be  made  like  those  of  over  a  century 
ago,  and,  in  the  church,  were  three  old  Indian  women, 
who  had  heard  the  original  dedication  services,  where 
Padres  Santiago  and  Peyri  were  the  officiating  clergymen. 

Much  has  been  done,  under  Father  O'Keefe's  intelligent 
supervision,  towards  arresting  the  decay  of  the  old  build- 
ings, and  so  completely  restoring  them,  that  they  are 
again  suited  for  Divine  worship.  A  brick  kiln  occupies 
a  portion  of  the  interior  quadrangle,  and  close  by  is  a 
modern  windmill,  pump  and  water  tank — rather  incongru- 
ous they  seem,  in  such  a  place,  and  yet  useful  and  necessary. 
The  dome  over  the  chancel  has  been  effectively  restored, 
in  accordance  with  the  original  designs,  and  several  of  the 
walls  repaired  with  imported  brick.  But  the  freight  on 
them  was  so  high  that  Father  O'Keefe  began  the  burning 
of  his  own  brick,  and  he  is  now  quite  successful.  The 
church  has  been  re-roofed,  and  excavation  of  the  corridors 
is  now  taking  place. 

Opposite  the  church  several  wooden  buildings  have  been 


9S 

erected  for  the  occupation  of  those  who  came  to  be  trained 
in  the  work  of  the  Franciscans,  and  San  Luis  Rey,  like 
Santa  Barbara,  is  now  educating  priests  instead  of  Indian 
savages. 

Father  O'Keefe  is  still  working  upon  the  restoration 
plans  of  San  Luis  Rey.  His  desire  is  to  restore  the  corri- 
dors and  outbuildings  to  more  than  their  pristine  glory 
and  splendor.  He  is  soliciting  funds  for  this  work,  and  as 
fast  as  they  come  in  the  building  is  done. 

To  reach  San  Luis  Rey  the  visitor  goes  by  rail  on  the 
Surf  Line  of  the  Santa  Fe  System,  to  the  town  of  Ocean- 
side,  eighty-five  miles  from  Los  Angeles.  Single  fare, 
$3.15;  round  trip,  $5.65.  On  Sundays,  returning  the  same 
day,  a  special  round  trip  rate  of  $3.00,  from  Los  Angeles 
and  return,  is  given.  Going  Saturday  and  returning  Mon- 
day, a  round  trip  ticket  may  be  obtained  for  $4.00. 

From  here  it  is  four  miles  drive  to  the  Mission,  and  all 
information  regarding  conveyances  will  cheerfully  be  fur- 
nished by  Mr.  Peiper,  mine  host  of  the  Oceanside  Hotel. 

San  Antonio  de  Pala. — When  at  San  Luis  Rey,  the  in- 
terested visitor  should  endeavor  to  drive  the  eighteen  or 
twenty  miles  further,  necessary  to  bring  him  to  the  pic- 
turesque structure  of  San  Antonio  de  Pala.  This  is  a 
chapel,  or  branch  of  San  Luis  Rey,  founded  by  Padre 
Peyri  for  the  greater  convenience  of  his  beloved  Indians, 
especially  those  wHo  lived  in  the  mountains.  There  were 
no  buildings  for  neophytes  as  at  the  other  Missions ;  nothing 
but  a  chapel  and  -a  few  scattered  corrals.  All  readers  of 
Mission  literature  are  familiar  with  the  picturesque  belfry 
of  Pala,  crowned  with  a  huge  cactus,  grown  from  a  seed 
some  passing  breeze  doubtless  lodged  in  the  adobe  tower, 
where  nourishing  moisture  fed  it  into  active  life. 

The  two  bells,  suspended  in  the  little  tower,  now  call 
the  Indians  from  the  surrounding  valley  to  worship,  but 
these   are   not    the    original    Pala    Indians.      They   are   all 


96 

gone.  The  new  inliahilants  are  tlic  Warner  Ranch  Indians, 
removed  from  that  place  to  Pala  in  1903. 

SiDila  }'«cr. — In  order  to  have  a  mission  nearer  to  the 
ranchcros  of  twenty-seven  baptized  families  than  Santa 
Barbara,  Padres  Jose  Calzada  and  Jose  Gutierrez  solemnly 
dedicated  a  new  Mission  to  St.  Agnes,  the  beautiful  virgin 
;iiul  martyr,  on  September  17,  1804. 

,S(/;/  Rafael. — In  1817,  owing  to  a  frightful  mortality  in 
San  Francisco,  Lieutenant  Sola  suggested  that,  possibly,  a 
move  across  the  bay,  where  inland  breezes  would  take  the 
place  of  ocean  winds,  might  be  beneficial  to  those  who 
were  still  sick.  The  suggestion  was  adopted,  and  on  De- 
cember 14,  1817,  a  Mission  was  founded  by  Padre  Luis 
Taboada  at  San  Rafael. 

But  little  more  than  a  memory  remains  today  of  San 
Rafael  Mission.  It  is  reached  by  the  North  Coast  R.  R. 
from  San  Francisco. 

Sail  Francisco  Solano. — This,  tbe  last  of  the  Missions, 
was  founded  on  Passion  Sunday,  April  4,  1824,  and  form- 
ally dedicated  to  the  patron  Saint  of  the  Indies — San 
Francisco   Solano. 

Though  earnestly  cared  for  by  its  founder.  Padre  Alti- 
mira,  it  was  but  short  lived,  although  the  restored  building 
is  now  in  use. 

Los  Angeles. — In  181 1  authority  was  gained  for  the  erec- 
tion of  a  chapel  in  Los  .\ngeles  for  the  benefit  of  the  old 
soldiers  who  had  long  and  faithfully  served  the  King  of 
Spain,  and  in  August,  1814,  Padre  Gil,  of  San  Gabriel,  laid 
and  blessed  the  corner  stone.  Nothing  further,  except 
the  laying  of  the  foundation,  was  accomplished  until  1S18, 
when  the  site  was  changed  to  its  present  location.  In  1819 
seven  barrels  of  brandy  and  five  himdred  cattle  were  con- 
tributed towards  the  building  fund,  and  by  the  end  of  1820 
the  walls  were  raised  to  the  window  arches.  Los  Angeles, 
at  this  time,  had  a  population  of  650,  and  an  appeal  was 


97 

made  to  the  Governor  in  1818,  and  through  him  to  the 
viceroy,  that  the  veterans  who  had  spent  their  manhood's 
years  in  fighting  for  the  King,  and  were  now  living  in  Los 
Angeles,  ought  not  to  be  deprived  of  spiritual  consolation 
and  instruction  any  longer.  But  no  priest  or  chaplain  was 
sent  to  them.  In  1822  or  1823  the  chapel  was  finally  com- 
pleted, and  formally  dedicated  on  the  8th  of  December,  1822. 
TJie  Landmark's  Club. — For  the  preservation  of  the  Mis- 
sion buildings,  a  society  has  been  organized,  with  a  number 
of  earnest,  active  spirits  at  its  head.  The  object  of  the 
Association  is  "to  create  a  fund  to  be  used  for  the  preserva- 
tion of  the  Mission  buildings  of  California."  The  fee  of 
membership  is  one  dollar  per  year.  President,  Charles  F. 
Lummis ;  treasurer,  A.  F.  Benton,  Los  Angeles. 


^^-' 


CHAPTER  IV. 

ToroGKAPHICAL     NAMES     AN'IJ     THEIR     ORIGIN. 

Tlicre  is  far  more  of  romance  and  history  in  the  names 
of  a  country  than  superficial  thinkers  imagine.  Names 
are  of  vast  importance.  Some  names  mean  much,  either 
of  honor,  of  glory,  of  achievement,  of  shame,  of  despair, 
of  failure,  of  grief,  of  tragedy,  of  comedy,  of  poetic  or 
other  interest. 

There  is  a  remarkable  and  pleasing  difference  between 
the  topographical  names  of  California  and  almost  every 
other  State  of  the  Union.  There  is  a  marked  flavor,  as 
distinctly  Californian  in  the  names  as  there  is  in  the 
climate. 

There  are  three  different  sources  of  California  names, 
and  to  those  we  owe  the  pleasing  diversity.  These  sources 
are  Indian,  Spanish  and  American.  The  Indian  names,  as 
a  rule,  come  through  the  Spanish,  so  that  many  of  them 
are  disguised,  yet  careful  study  of  their  etymology  clearly 
reveals  their  Indian  origin.  The  following  list  makes 
no  pretense  to  completeness  and  is  not  exclusively  confined 
to  Southern  California,  but  it  will  undoubtedly  aid  the 
traveler  to  a  clearer  comprehension  of  the  general  subject. 

PriutoHiiciation. — A  little  care  will  soon  prevent  glaring 
error  in  the  pronounciation  of  Indian  and  Spanish  names. 
It  is  not  conducive  to  the  equanimity  of  a  Californian  to 
listen  to  a  new-comer  say :  "I  propose  stopping  off  at 
Mo-jay-ve  to  see  the  Indians,  then  I  am  going  to  climb 
Mount  San  Jack-iii-toc,  visit  the  Jain-a-shazi'  Springs,  see 
the   ocean   at   Hcn'-en-emy,  go   up  to   the   San  Joc-a-quin 


99 

Valley  and  see  San  Jo-scy,  Ben-ick-ky  and  Sue-e-soon. 
Then  I  want  to  climb  Mounts  Ta-mail-pizc,  Lonia  Pry-et-ta 
and  Tee-john.  I  forgot  I  want  to  see  the  Pa-jair-o  Valley 
and  also  the  Ka-hew-illa  Indians."  Do  not  go  into  a 
Mexican  or  Spanish  restaurant  and  ask  for  fry-joles  and 
to-mails.  Fix  well  in  mind  the  continental  method  of  pro- 
nouncing the  vowels,  thus  a  is  aJi,  as  in  father ;  e  is  eh,  or 
like  a  in  fate;  i  is  like  ee  in  feel;  o  like  o  in  go;  u  like  oo 
in  fool.  H  is  silent;  ;  and  g  before  e  and  i  have  a  sound 
similar  to  that  of  the  English  h ;  s  never  has  the  sound  of 
z,  but  is  always  like  .y.y  in  hiss.  Qu  before  e  and  i  is  like 
k.  II  is  Hi  in  William ;  fi  is  like  ni  in  union.  There  are 
no  diphthongs  in  Spanish.  Every  vowel  is  sounded  sepa- 
rately, thus  each  vowel  gives  a  new  syllable.  Words 
ending  in  a  vowel  in  the  singular  have  the  accent  on  the 
syllable  next  to  the  last;  those  ending  in  a  consonant,  on 
the  last.  Where  a  vowel  is  marked  with  an  accent  dis- 
regard any   rules  and  pronounce  accordingly. 

The  earliest  of  all  given  names  except  those  of  the 
Indians  were  those  given  by  Vizcaino  and  his  companions 
as  they  made  their  memorable  journey  up  the  coast  of 
California  in  1602.  Although  Cabrillo  had  sailed  hither 
sixty  years  before,  and  had  given  many  names  to  bays, 
■islands,  points,  etc.,  Vizcaino  utterly  disregarded  what 
Cabrillo  had  done  and  gave  new  names,  most  of  which 
remain  to  the  present  day. 

It  was  on  the  loth  of  November,  1602,  that  Vizcaino's 
three  vessels  anchored  in  the  bay  that  we  now  call  San 
Diego.  Cabrillo  had  discovered  it  and  called  it  San 
Miguel,  but,  as  Vizcaino's  flagship  was  named  San  Diego, 
and  the  12th  of  November  was  that  saint's  day,  it  is  pos- 
sible that  those  were  the  reasons  for  so  naming  it. 

The  islands  to  the  south  and  west  were  named  Los 
Coronados.      When    they    reached    an    anchorage    on    an 


island  after  eiglil  clays  of  figliting  against  a  northwest 
wind,  tlicy  called  it  Santa  Calalina  (whose  day  is  Novem- 
ber 25).  Before  landing  on  the  island  they  had  gone 
into  a  bight  or  open  bay  on  the  mainland,  which  they 
called  San  Pedro,  his  day  being  November  26. 

There  seems  to  be  confusion,  for,  say  some,  if  they 
landed  at  San  Pedro  first  and  that  day  was  November  26, 
how  conies  it  that  they  afterwards  landed  on  the  island 
which  they  named  Santa  Catalina,  though  her  day  is  on 
the  25th? 

There  is  no  doubt  but  that  they  named  the  island  from 
the  time  they  first  saw  it,  and  then,  crossing  over  to  the 
mainland,  named  the  place  where  they  landed  San  Pedro. 

As  they  went  through  the  channel  between  the  mainland 
and  the  coast  they  named  it  Santa  Barbara  Channel,  and, 
as  her  day  in  the  Saint's  Calendar  is  December  4,  we 
may  assume  that  this  was  the  day  they  entered  or  anchored 
in  the  channel.  How  it  is  that  St.  Nicholas  Island  was 
named,  I  do  not  know.  His  day  is  November  13,  which 
was  several  days  before  Vizcaino's  vessel  left  San  Diego 
harbor. 

December  8  is  the  day  of  the  Immaculate  Conception 
of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  and  accordingly  we  find  Point 
Concepcion  a  little  further  north.  Fogs  prevailed  now  fo^ 
a  few  days  but  on  the  14th  a  lofty  range  of  mountains 
was  seen,  which,  had  there  been  no  fog,  they  would  un- 
doubtedly have  seen  on  the  13th,  so,  as  that  was  her  day, . 
they  named  the  range  Sierra  de  Santa  Lucia.  Four  leagues 
beyond  wdiere  they  saw  the  Santa  Lucia  they  named  a 
stream  Rio  del  Carmelo,  in  honor  of  the  Carmelite  friars 
who  were  on  board.  Then,  the  pines  suggested  the  name 
of  Punta  (point)  de  Pinos,  and  where  they  found  the 
excellent  bay  beyond  they  named  it  the  Bay  of  Monterey, 
in  honor  of  the  viceroy  who  had  sent  out  the  expedition. 


When  Serra  and  his  coadjutors  came  and  established 
their  cliain  of  Missions  they  gave  many  names,  many,  but 
not  all,  of  which  now  remain.  San  Diego,  Santa  Barbara, 
Monterey  were  already  named,  but  San  Luis  Rey,  San  Juan 
Capistrano,  and  many  others  were  given  at  this  time. 
Padre  Crespi,  who  kept  a  diary,  recorded  the  names. 
Many  of  them  then  given  did  not  "stick,"  but  others  re- 
main to-day  and  doubtless  will  to  the  end  of  time.  A 
place  named  San  Juan  Capistrano  was  reached  July  i8, 
1769,  but  this  was  afterwards  changed  to  San  Luis  Rey. 
Then  came  Santa  Margarita,  now  owned  by  R.  O'Neill ; 
the  Santa  Ana  River  and  several  places  whose  names  are 
changed.  The  Santa  Clara  River  and  Canyada  next  re- 
ceived names,  and  the  site  of  the  present  Ventura  was 
called  Asuncion.  Above  what  is  now  Santa  Barbara  was 
another  Santa  Margarita,  San  Luis  Obispo  (which  was 
afterwards  changed  to  the  present  site)  La  Gaviota, 
Point  Concepcion,  San  Juan  Bautista,  and  eventually  Pajaro 
and  the  San  Lorenzo  River.  It  was  on  this  trip  that,  miss- 
ing Monterey  Bay,  Crespi  and  Portala  mistaking  the  old 
Port  of  San  Francisco  which  in  the  earlier  days  (for 
half  a  century)  had  been  located  under  Point  Reyes, 
named  the  small  bay  or  ensenada  between  the  mainland 
and  the  Farallones  after  Saint  Francisco.  As  yet  the 
Golden  Gate  and  what  is  now  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco 
had  not  been  discovered.  It  was  first  seen  by  Europeans, 
the  day  following,  when  Ortega,  the  sergeant  of  the  party, 
and  a  few  of  his  men  ascended  the  hills  to  the  north- 
east, expecting  that  way  to  be  able  to  reach  Point  Reyes. 

Soon  began  the  actual  founding  of  the  Missions  and 
many  places  date  from  this  period.  San  Carlos  Borromeo 
was  established  at  Monterey,  in  1770,  San  Antonio  de 
Padua  in  1771.  In  1771  or  1772  Serra  changed  tlie  site 
of  the  Monterey  Mission  to  the  Carmelo  Valley,  where  it 


now  is.  In  1771  San  Gabriel  Archangel  was  foundcfl  and 
from  this  time  dates  the  naminjar  of  the  Sierra  Madre 
ranpc.  the  peaks  of  San  Antonio,  San  Gorgonio,  San  Ber- 
nardino and  Santiago.  In  Sepleml)er,  1772,  San  Luis 
Obispo  was  founded. 

In  1773,  the  fiftli  year  of  Spanish  occupation,  in  one  of 
Serra's  reports  we  find  the  first  use  of  the  name  Los 
Angeles.  He  speaks  of  the  San  Gabriel  Mission  a  leaj?ue 
and  a  half  east  of  the  River  Nuestra  Senora  de  Los  An- 
geles de  Porcinuncula. 

In  1773  Rivera  was  appointed  governor  of  the  new 
country.  It  is  interesting  to  note  how  great  was  the  fore- 
sight, in  some  respects,  of  his  superiors  in  Mexico.  His 
instruction  cautioned  him  "to  exercise  great  care  in  the 
choice  of  locations  for  the  Missions  as  they  may  eventu- 
ally become  great  cities." 

In  1775  Lieutenant  Agala  was  ordered  to  explore  the 
new  San  Francisco  Bay,  and  on  August  2  he  reached 
Angel  Island,  so  named  from  the  Saint's  day,  Isla  de 
Nuestra  Senor  de  Los  Angeles,  thus  showing  a  close 
similarity  with  that  of  the  Southern  City  of  Los  Angeles. 

August  10.  177s,  an  attempt  was  made  to  found  the 
Mission  of  San  Juan  Capistrano.  but  it  was  not  until 
November  i  of  the  following  year  that  this  was  accom- 
plished. 

In  1776  San  Francisco  was  established  near  a  spring  and 
rivulet,  which  from  the  day  they  named  Arroyo  de  los 
Dolores.  Hence  we  have  the  name  Dolores  as  often  ap- 
plied to  the  San  Francisco  Mission. 

In  the  South  San  Buenaventura  ("the  modern  Ventura") 
was  founded  in  1783.  Santa  Barbara  in  1786,  San  Fernando 
in  T707,  San  Luis  Rey  in  179S. 

The  Spanish,  now  well  entrenched,  naturally  named 
many   places.     All    the   old    Spanish   and    Mexican    grants 


103 

had  saintly  or  other  interesting  names,  and  in  rnost  cases 
tliese  have  been  retained  in  the  naming  of  towns  located 
within  their  boundaries. 

Local  usage,  also,  at  this  time,  fixed  many  of  the  other 
Spanish  names  which  we  now  use. 

The  J\vdiigo  or  San  Rafael  Hills,  near  Pasadena,  were 
named  from  Mariano  de  la  Luz  Verdugo,  or  his  son, 
Jose  Maria  Verdugo,  the  former  being  one  of  Portala's 
soldiers  who  went  to  Monterey,  1760-70.  The  ranch  was 
called  the  San  Rafael  Rancho. 

Several  names  come  to  us  of  the  descriptive  type  from 
the  Spaniards,  such  as  Caliente  (hot),  Pascadero  (place 
of  fishermen),  Poso  Creek  (  a  creek  full  of  sediment), 
and  afterwards  the  name  given  to  a  town,  Potrero  (a  pas- 
ture ground),  Pajaro  (place  of  the  bird),  Soledad  (soli- 
tude or  solitary  place),  Los  Gatos  (the  cat,  doubtless  a 
place  where  wild  cats  abounded),  Gaviota  Pass,  now  a 
town  named  also  (the  place  of  the  seagull).  We  also 
have  the  following:  Pa  Calera — the  limekiln,  Calaveras 
■ — skulls,  the  scene  of  many  Indian  fights;  Arroyo  Seco, 
dry  creek;  Arroyo  Grande,  in  San  Luis  Obispo  Co.,  great 
creek  -yArroyo  Hondo,  deep  creek ;  Agua  Caliente,  "Hot 
Water."  There  is  a  town  of  this  name  in  Sonoma  Co., 
and  the  tribe  of  Indians  recently  evicted  from  Warner's 
Ranch,  San  Diego  Co.,  were  often  called  by  this  name. 
The  Indian  for  Agua  Caliente — hot  water — is  Palatingwa, 
and  these  people  often  refer  to  themselves  as  Palatingwas. 
Their  tribe  name  is  Copah,  sometimes  erroneously  spelled 
Cupa.  Then  we  have  Agua  Didce,  sweet  water ;  Agua  Fria, 
cold  water. 

Rincon  is  the  Spanish  name  for  an  angle  or  inside  cor- 
ner. It  was  given  to  the  place  between  Santa  Barbara  and 
W'litura,  where  the  passage  is  lictwcen  two  points  of 
land   which  fit  out  into  the  ocean. 


I04 

Cajon  pass,  pronounced  Ca-honc,  Si)anisli  for  box.  'I  his 
is  a  box  canyon,  a  closed  in  place. 

The  Amargosa  River  was  so  named  by  the  Spanish  be- 
cause of  its  bitter  waters. 

Chino.  According  to  Major  Truman,  Chino  means  in 
the  Mexican  vernacular  "curly,"  and  was  a  suffix  to  the 
saintly  title  of  the  Rancho  granted  to  the  Lugo  family. 
The  name  as  amended  was  Rancho  Santa  Ana  del  Chino, 
so  called  because  of  the  curly  locks  of  its  earliest  major 
domo.  Little  by  little  the  name  "Chino"  became  the 
accepted  one  for  the  ranch  and  when  the  town  was  started 
that  naturally  became  its  name. 

Mt.  Diablo.  It  has  always  been  said  that  when  the 
Spaniards  sought  a  name  for  this  grand  and  majestic 
mountain  they  found  all  the  saints,  angels  and  arch- 
angles'  names  used  elsewhere,  so  they  dedicated  it  to  the 
potentate  of  the  lower  regions. 

Farallones  are  a  group  of  small  islands  near  the  Golden 
Gate.  The  word  farallon  means,  in  Spanish,  "needle," 
or  "small,  pointed  island." 

Pnente,  "the  bridge."  The  name  was  originally  given 
to  a  range  of  hills  which  "bridged"  the  San  Gabriel  and 
Santa  Ana  Valleys'  together.  The  town  was  named  from 
the  range. 

Redondo  Beach,  "the  round  beach,"  from  its  beautiful 
contour. 

Rio.  This  is  a  Spanish  prefix  meaning  river,  and  is 
attached  to  many  names  in  California,  Arizona,  etc.,  as 
Rio  Arriba,  the  upper  or  high  river;  Rio  Blanco,  the  white 
river ;  Rio  de  las  Picdras,  the  river  of  stones :  Rio  de  los 
Americanos,  the  American  river,  or  literally  river  of  the 
.Americans;  Rio  de  los  Martires.  river  of  the  martyr? : 
Rio  de  Merccde,  river  of  mercy;  Rio  Frio,  cold  river; 
Rio  Grande,  great  river;  Rio   Salinas,  the  salt  river;  Rio 


105 

Seco,  the  dry  river;  Rio  Vista,  the  river  view,  etc.  The 
American  River  was  so  called  b}'  the  Mexicans  because 
after  the  gold  excitement  broke  out  many  Americans  came 
over  the  Sierras  into  California  down  that  river. 

Coronado  (Cor-o-nah'-do)  town,  peninsula  and  islands 
in  or  near  San  Diego  Co.  named  after  the  Spanish  con- 
quistador, Francisco  Vasquez  de  Coronado. 

La  Canyada  leads  from  North  Pasadena  into  the  San 
Fernando  Valley.  An  old  Mexican  at  Pasadena  was  once 
asked  what  Canyada  meant.  He  put  his  hands  together, 
then  opened  them  a  little  at  their  thumb  side,  making  a 
narrow  trough  shape,  and  said — "Canyon,  canyon  !"  Then 
opening  the  trough  much  wider,  he  said,  "Canyada !  can- 
yada !"     So  canyada  is  simply  a  large  wide  canyon. 

El  Monfc  is  not,  as  so  many  imagine,  Spanish  solely 
for  a  mountain,  but  is  also  used  to  denote  a  woody  place, 
and  this  is  its  significance  as  applied  to  the  small  town 
on  the  line  of  the  Southern  Pacific,  near  San  Gabriel. 

El  Toro,  the  bull,  so  named  because  it  was  in  the  center 
of  a  vast  cattle  ranch. 

Pinole  was  originally  the  name  of  a  rancho.  owned  by 
Ygnacio  Martinez,  from  whom  the  town  of  Martinez 
takes  its  name. 

Paso  Rabies  was  originally  El  Paso  de  Robles,  "the 
pass  of  the  oaks,"  it  being  located  near  where  the  pioneers' 
road  made  a  pass  in  which  many  live  oaks  thrived. 

Other  Spanish  names  come  to  us  from  some  fortuitous 
or  accidental  circumstances,  as,  for  instance,  Ballena,  in 
San  Diego  Co.,  "whale."  Doubtless  so  named  by  the 
Spanish  or  Mexicans  because  a  whale  was  caught  near 
here,  or  drifted  ashore.  Cone  jo  (Co-nay'-ho),  jackrabbit, 
a  small  settlement  in  the  San  Joaquin  Valley,  so  named 
because    of   the    \'ast    number    of    iackrabbils    found    there. 


io6 

Toncscal,  Swcat-IIoiisc,  so  named  because  here  was  lo- 
cated an  Indian  sudatory. 

'I'lie  despised  Indians  have  given  to  us  Klamath,  Shasta, 
(  aluiilla,  Pala,  Pauma,  Pachanga,  Temecula,  Chowchilla. 
Siiisun,  Mono,  Inyo,  Sonoma,  Napa,  Yolo,  Tehama, 
Wyeka  (which  the  later  comers  changed  to  Yreka,  adding 
the  r,  says  Bancroft,  wliicli  the  Indians  so  widely  lack), 
and  others. 

Cahnilla  (Ka-wee'-ah")  is  the  name  of  a  tribe  of  Indians 
residing  in  a  valley  of  the  same  name  in  Riverside  Co. 
The  name  is  said  to  mean  "master."  Chemchucvi  (Chem- 
c-way'-ve),  a  tribe  of  Indians  living  in  a  valley  of  the  same 
name  on  the  Colorado  River,  in  Arizona,  and  also  on  the 
California  side  of  the  river.  A  branch  of  the  Paiuti 
family  and  called  Chemehuevi  in  derision.  The  name  is 
most  probably  derived  from  Achee  Mohave,  "fish-eating 
Mohave." 

Cosumne   (Co-sum'-ney),  is  Indian  for  salmon. 

Bryant  says  that  Tnickcc  Ctown  and  river")  gained  its 
name  in  the  following  manner.  A  party  of  emigrants  in 
1844  was  caught  in  the  snow  in  trying  to  cross  the  Sierras. 
While  trying  to  force  their  way  up  the  river  an  eccentric 
looking  Indian  arrived  and  offered  to  guide  them.  He  was 
so  much  like  a  man  one  of  the  emigrants  used  to  know 
called  Truckee  that  he  gave  him  the  name,  from  which  his 
tribe,  the  river  and  the  town  have  since  been  named. 

Algooton  w^as  formerly  Lakevieiv.  It  was  named  after 
Algoot,  the  ancient  hero  of  the  Saboba  Indians,  who.  they 
allege,  brought  their  ancestors  to  Southern  California. 
One  of  their  legends  connects  Algoot  with  the  region  of 
Algooton.  It  is  said  that  here  he  fought  with  Tauquitch. 
the  cannibal  monster  of  the  San  Jacinto  Mountains,  and 
sl(.\v  Iiiiii.     Tn  the  fight  Tauquitch  turned  himself   (being  a 


107 

wizard)  into  a  sea  serpent  and  in  the  wild  lashings  of  his 
tail  cut  through  the  rocks,  allowing  the  water  of  the  San 
Jacinto  River  to  empty  into  Lake  Elsinorc. 

Pasadena  is  a  Chippewa  Indian  word,  and  was  suggested 
by  Dr.  T.  B.  Ellicott,  one  of  the  town's  original  found- 
ers. The  full  name  should  be  IVeoquan  Pasadena,  the 
Crown  of  the  Valley. 

Altadena  is  a  made  word  from  dena,  the  latter  part  of 
the  name  Pasadena,  and  Alta,  higher,  viz.,  the  higher 
Pasadena.     It  was  given  by  Byron  O.  Clark. 

The  Americans  appear  to  have  been  controlled  by  a 
variety  of  methods  or  motives  in  their  naming  of  towns. 
The  personality  of  individuals  seems  to  have  been  as 
powerful  as  any  other  motive,  as  will  be  seen  from  the 
following : 

Stockton  was  named  after  Commodore  Stockton,  the 
first  governor  of  the  territory  of  California.  It  was 
founded  by  Charles  Weber  in  1847. 

BcalesviUe  was  named  after  Lieut.  Truxton  Beale,  once 
a  midshipman  on  Stockton's  vessel.  He  was  sent  to  the 
relief  of  S.  W.  Kearney  by  Stockton  when  the  "Army 
of  the  West"  was  defeated  by  Andres  Pico  at  San  Pas- 
qual.     Beale  was  afterwards  U.   S.   Minister  to  Austria. 

J^alli-jo  was  named  after  Don  Mariano  Guadalupe  Val- 
Icjo.  once  in  the  Mexican  Army,  but  one  of  the  first  to 
recognize  the  great  benefit  LTnited  States  occupancy  of 
California  would  be.  He  was  a  member  of  the  Constitu- 
tional   Convention   and   afterwards   State  senator. 

Monrovia  was  laid  out  and  named  by  Mr.  W.  N.  Mon- 
roe in  1886. 

Eaton  Canyon,  in  the  Sierra  Madre,  northeast  of  Pasa- 
dena, was  named  after  Judge  F>.  S.  Eaton,  one  of  the 
first  settlers  in  Pasadena. 

Nordhoff   was   named   after   Charles    Nordhoff    once   on 


io8 

tlic  slaff  of  Tlarpcr's  magazine,  and  whose  articles  and 
books  on  California  did  much  to  attract  settlers. 

Elhi'ood  was  so  named  from  Ellwood  Cooper,  one  of  the 
best  known  olive  growers  of  the  State,  and  for  years  a 
member  of  the  Horticultural  Commission. 

Burhank  was  named  after  Luther  Burbank,  the  famous 
.-isriculluralist  and  horticulturalist,  whose  achievements 
with  vegetables,  flowers,  fruits,  etc..  have  made  his  name- 
as  much  that  of  a  wizard  as  that  of  Edison. 

KinucyJoa.  a  pretty  spot  above  Sierra  Madre,  was  named 
by  Abbott  Kinney,  botanist,  editor  and  the  fellow-com- 
missioner of  Mrs.  Helen  Hunt  Jackson  in  her  work  among 
the  Mission  Indians  of  Southern   California. 

Not  far  away  is  Carterhia,  so  named  by  Mr.  Kinney's 
neighbor.  Carter. 

HolUslcr  was  so  named  from  Col.  Hollister,  an  early 
day  pioneer  and  one  who  experimented  somewhat  in 
orange  growing. 

Walker's  Lake  and  Pass  were  both  named  from  Joseph 
Walker,  a  noted  trapper,  hunter,  guide  and  scout,  who 
joined  Fremont  on  his  return  from  his  second  expedition. 

Glendora  was  named  by  Mr.  George  Whitcomb.  of  Chi- 
cago, its  founder,  after  his  wife,  Lenora.  and  "glen,"  the 
beautiful  wealth  of  the  place  suggesting  several  glens. 

Ramona  was  named  from  the  daughter  of  Hon.  J.  De 
Earth  Shorb. 

Banning  was  laid  out  by  Dr.  Welwood  Murray,  of  Palm 
Springs,  who  named  it  after  his  old  friend  Gen.  Phineas 
Banning, 

Beaumont  was  first  named  Edgar  Station  from  Dr. 
Edgar,  who  came  as  a  physician  with  a  U.  S.  surveying 
party  sent  out  in  the  late  40's  or  early  50's  of  the  last 
ccnlury.  Tt  was  then  changed  to  San  Gorgonio.  in  honor 
of  the  majestic  mountain  which  overlooked  it,  and  finally 


109 

given  its  present  Frenchified  name  (Beautiful  Mountain) 
by  H.  C.  Sigler,  who  headed  a  company  for  the  devehap- 
ment  of  real  estate  interests  in  the  town. 

Gilroy. — So  named  from  a  Scotchman,  John  Gilroy,  who 
landed  in  Monterey  in  1814  from  a  Hudson  Bay  Co/s 
ship.  He  had  the  scurvy  badly  and  was  left  on  shore  to 
be  cured.  On  his  recovery  he  went  to  the  Santa  Clara 
Valley,  settled  on  a  ranch  about  thirty  miles  south  of 
San  Jose,  near  where  Gilroy  now  is.    He  died  July  26,  1869. 

Donner  Lake  was  so  named  from  the  illfated  Donner 
party  who  camped  on  the  snow  which  covered  it  from 
sight  in  1846-7. 

Sunol. — Named  from  Antonio  M.  Sunol,  a  Spaniard, 
born  at  Barcelona,  but  a  member  of  the  French  #Navy. 
He  was  present  when  Napoleon  the  Great  surrendered 
before  his  exile  to  St.  Helena.  He  died  in  San  Jose, 
March   18,  1865. 

Downey  received  its  name  from  Governor  John  J.  Dow- 
ney, as  also  did  Dozvnieville,  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
State. 

Diiarte  derives  its  name  from  Andres  Duarte,  a  Mexican 
military  officer,  who  settled  here  upon  a  grant  secured 
from  the  Mexican  government. 

Livermore. — Named  after  Robert  Livermore,  who  en- 
tered the  Santa  Clara  Valley  in  1816.  He  married  into  the 
Higuerra  family,  and  died  in  1857,  leaving  a  large  estate. 

Folsom. — I  am  not  certain,  but  am  under  the  impres- 
sion that  somewhere  I  have  read  or  heard  that  this  place 
was  named  after  Captain  Folsom,  first  acting  quarter- 
master general  in  California,  who  came  to  the  coast  in 
1846,  one  of  the  officers  of  a  regiment  of  a  thousand 
volunteer  soldiers  under  the  command  of  Col.  J.  D. 
Stevenson. 

Wilson's  Peak,  or   properly  Mount   Wilson,  was  named 


fidm  lion.  ]>.  I).  Wilson,  one  of  California's  earliest 
American  settlers. 

The  Kern  River,  Kern  County  and  Kcrnville  all  obtain 
their  names  from  Kern,  a  member  of  Fremont's  expedition. 

IVhitticr  was  settled  by  a  colony  of  Friends,  and  thu- 
named  in  honor  of  the  great  Quaker  poet. 

Delano  (De-lay'-no),  was  possibly  named  after  Colum- 
bus Delano,  Secretary  of  the  Interior  under  President 
Grant.  The  mountains  of  the  same  name  in  Montana 
and  Utah  were  so  named. 

Delgada  Point  (Del-gah'-dah)  was  named  after  an  old 
Spanish  explorer. 

niirenberg,  in  Yuma  County,  Arizona,  on  the  Colorado 
River,  though  in  another  State,  has  a  peculiarly  interesting 
connection  with  California.  It  received  its  name  in  1856 
from  Herman  Ehrenberg,  its  founder,  who  was  tragically 
murdered  at  Dos  Palmos,  on  the  Colorado  Desert. 

Murrieta,  a  town  in  Riverside  co.,  is  said  to  be  so  named 
from  a  former  proprietor  of  a  large  tract  of  land  there, 
J.  Murrieta. 

IVincIiester  was  named  from  the  pioneer  who  laid  it  out. 

Mount  Hoffman,  one  of  the  peaks  of  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vada, was  so  named  from  Charles  F.  Hoffman,  of  the 
State  Geological  Survey. 

Mount  Lyell  is  another  towering  peak  in  the  same  range, 
named  after  Sir  Charles  Lyell,  the  distinguished  English 
geologist. 

Mount  IVhitney,  the  highest  peak  of  the  United  States, 
one  of  the  peaks  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  was  named  from 
Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney,  State  Geologist  of  California,  and 
Mount  Brezvcr  was  named  after  Prof.  W.  H.  Brewer. 

The  following  names  were  given  in  memor>'-  of  places 
known  in  earlier  days,  or  through  some  agreeable  associa- 
tion. 


jrHiiiiiigtoii  was  laid  out  by  the  Hon.  Phineas  Banning 
and  in  1858  was  so  named  by  him  after  his  home  city  of 
Wihnington,  Del. 

Nezvport  Beach  was  laid  out  by  Mr.  McFadden,  of 
Santa  Ana,  and  named  by  him  as  a  western  claimant  for 
the  honors  accorded  to  the  Eastern  Newport. 

Ontario  was  laid  out  by  the  Chafifey  Bros.,  who  came 
from  the  Canadian  province  of  the  same  name. 

We  have  an  Acton  in  Southern  California  but  I  am  not 
sure  how  it  gained  its  name.  There  is  an  Acton  in  Mid- 
dlesex Co.,  England,  one  in  Massachusetts,  and  one  in 
Maine. 

Spadra  was  so  named  by  Mr.  W.  Rubottom,  whose  hap- 
piest years  were  spent  at  Spadra  Blufifs,  on  the  Arkansas 
River. 

Alhambra,  near  Pasadena,  Los  Angeles  Co.,  was  so 
named  for  the  palace  in  Spain. 

Westminster. — In  1870  Rev.  L.  P.  Webber,  a  Presby- 
terian clergyman,  formerly  of  Salem  Co.,  New  Jersey, 
secured  about  seven  thousand  acres,  sold  it  under  severe 
restrictions,  having  given  the  colony  a  name  that  would 
endear  it  to  all  good  members  of  his  faith. 

Some  names  were  given  because  of  a  circumstance  or 
event  which  transpired  when  some  one  was  present  to 
give  the  name  and  pass  it  on.  Thus  we  have  Rattlesnake 
Island  and  Dead  Man's  Island,  the  latter,  so  named  be- 
cause the  soldiers  slain  in  the  fight  between  Gillespie  and 
the  Spanish  at  Dominguez  were  buried  there. 

The  Calico  Mountains,  near  Daggett,  are  so  called  from 
the  marvelous  colorings  of  the  rocks  and  clays  of  which 
the  range  is  formed.  The  miners  saw  the  resemblance  to 
richly  colored  calicoes  and  so  gave  the  name. 

The  Colorado  River  is  the  Red  River  of  the  West,  Colo- 
rado being  Spanish  for  red.     There  has  been  solne  discus- 


sion,  however,  as  in  whether  tlic  name  was  given  owing 
to  the  recklisii  color  of  llie  water,  or  the  red  walls  of  the 
canyon  which  has  made  the  Colorado  River  so  famous 
Ihronghout  the  world. 

Death  yalley  derives  its  name  from  the  melancholy  fate 
of  a  party  of  emigrants  of  which  Rev.  J.  W.  Brier,  a 
Methodist  minister,  was  one.  There  were  five  hundred 
who  started,  but  a  mere  handful  reached  the  California 
land  for  which  they  aimed.  The  bones  of  those  who 
perished  were  found  by  Governor  Blaisdell  and  his  sur- 
veying party,  and  he  it  was  who  gave  the  valley  its  lugubri- 
ous name. 

Arron'head  is  so  named  from  the  wonderful  resemblance 
to  an  Indian  arrowhead  seen  on  the  mountain  close  by. 
It  is  the  work  of  erosion,  but  so  perfectly  shaped  and 
large  that  it  can  be  seen  for  many  miles. 

Redlands  was  so  called  because  the  soil  of  its  region  is 
notably  red. 

Needles  is  a  town  in  San  Bernardino  Co.,  on  the  main 
line  of  the  Santa  Fe.  and  so  named  because  of  the  sharp 
or  needle-like  peaks  seen  in  the  Mohave  Mountains,  which 
are  passed  nearest  when  crossing  the  bridge  from  the 
Arizona  side. 

Coast  Range  of  mountains  is  so  called  because  its 
general  trend  is  parallel  to  the  Pacific  coast. 

Tulare  Lake  and  County  receive  their  names  from  the 
vast  number  of  tules  that  once  covered  a  large  area  in  the 
lower  end  of  the  San  Joaquin  Valley. 

Location  had  much  to  do  with  some  of  the  names  given 
since  United  States  occupancy,  such  as  Oceanside,  on  the 
surf  line  between  Los  Angeles  and  San  Diego,  Riverside. 
Long  Beach,  Red  Bluff,  Contra  Costa,  Grass  Valley. 
Placerville,  Palomar  Mountain  (the  mountain  of  the 
Dove),  SaHnas  (salt)  River,  Inglezi'ood,  Dos  Palms,  Palm 


113 

Spiiii;4S,  Palm  rallcy,  Paso  Rubles  (the  Pass  of  the 
Oaks).  Riverside  was  so  called  because  it  was  a  colony 
located  on  the  side  of  the  Santa  Ana  River. 

Orange  was  so  named  from  the  large  oranges  that  grew 
there,  and  when  the  county  was  separated  from  Los 
Angeles  County  its  citizens  chose  that  as  its  country  name. 

Atialiein  was  a  German  settlement,  bought  at  $2.00  an 
acre  in  1857,  and  was  so  named  from  its  location  on  the 
Santa  Ana  River,  "heim"  being  German  for  "home." 


CHAPTER  V. 
THK   STuKV    or   kamona;    its    scenes    and    how   to   reach 

THEM. 

Few  American  novels  have  enjoyed  the  popularity  of 
Ramona.  Its  sale  is  constant,  thousands  of  copies  being 
sold  annually  in  Southern  California.  It,  better  than 
any  other  novel,  pictures  the  life  of  the  early  days  when 
Spaniard,  Mexican  and  Indian  were  beginning  to  awake 
to  the  rude  materialism  of  the  life  of  the  new  citizens — 
the  Americanos  who  were  taking  possession  of  the  land. 
I  licii,  too,  it  is  so  exquisitely  describes  the  beauty  of  the 
country  and  so  truthfully  shows  the  ideal  character  of  the 
Indian  that  it  has  never  ceased  to  appeal  to  a  large  and 
growing  circle  of  readers. 

The  Book  itself  is  a  novel,  a  work  of  fiction.  There  is 
no  real  Ramona.  A  certain  book  published  by  one  D.  A. 
Hufford,  in  Los  Angeles,  bearing  the  title  "The  Real 
Ramona,"  is  full  of  wilful  and  deliberate  mendacities  and 
bold  thefts  of  my  own  photographs  to  bolster  up  his 
untruthful  screed.  The  whole  story  is  not  worthy  this 
notice,  except  as  a  warning. 

The  scenes  of  the  early  parts  of  the  book  are  laid  at 
Camulos.  This  was  and  is  an  old  Spanish  ranch  house 
on  the  coast  line  of  the  Southern  Pacific  between  Los 
Angeles  and  Santa  Barbara.  Here  one  may  see  the  crosses 
on  the  hillside,  the  South  Veranda  where  Felipe  was 
sick,  the  inner  court,  the  fountain,  the  chapel,  the  old 
olive-oil  mill,  the  washing-place  under  the  willows,  the 
grape   arbor,   and   even   the  torn   altar-cloth   in   the  chapel. 


IIS 

Some  have  suggested  that  the  Rancho  Gaujome,  ten 
or  twelve  miles  from  Oceanside,  on  the  line  of  the  Santa 
Fe  to  San  Diego  is  the  "real  home  of  Ramonai,"  This 
is  utter  bosh  and  nonsense.  The  writer  of  a  novel  surely 
herself  knows  which  is  the  fictitious  home  of  her  fictitious 
heroine,  and  in  the  case  of  Ramona  H.  H.  describes  with 
fullness  and  reasonable  accuracy  Camulos  and  not  Guaj- 
ome. 

As  to  the  characters,  both  Ramona  and  Alessandro  were 
fictitious.  Yet  it  is  certain  that  many  isolated  true  stories 
are  woven  into  this  fictitious  story.  Hence  it  is  interesting 
to  visit  Saboba,  near  San  Jacinto,  where  Ramona  is  said 
to  have  lived;  the  Hartzell  store  is  found  near  Temecula; 
Aunt  Ri  is  Mrs.  Jordan  of  Old  San  Jacinto;  Jim  Farrar 
is  Sam  Temple,  who  was  living,  the  last  time  I  saw  him, 
at  Yuma,  Ariz.  Then,  asks  the  reader,  is  that  part  of  the 
story  which  describes  the  shooting  of  Alessandro  true? 
It  is !  But  it  was  true  only  of  an  Indian  named  Juan 
Diego,  who  lived  in  the  San  Jacinto  Mountain  Valley,  and 
who  was  often  affected  by  an  attack  of  "loco."  In  one  of 
these  attacks  he  took  Sam  Temple's  horse  from  the  Hewitt 
Corral  at  Old  San  Jacinto  (where  Aunt  Ri  was  then  liv- 
ing) and  left  his  own  broken  down  pony  in  its  stead.  The 
Indians  and  his  friends  claim  that  Juan  was  incapable  of 
stealing  the  horse;  Temple  assumed  the  other  attitude.  He 
personally  informed  me  that  he  trailed  the  horse  to  Juan 
Diego's  home,  called  out  the  Indian,  who,  when  he  came 
attempted  to  kill  him  with  a  long  knife  which  he  had 
secreted  up  his  sleeve.  In  self-defence  Temple  shot  and 
killed  the  Indian,  returned  to  San  Jacinto,  gave  himself 
up  and  was  ultimately  released  on.  the  plea  of  self-defence. 
Ramona  (Juan  Diego's  wife)  tells  the  story,  on  the  other 
hand,  exactly  as  it  is  related  by  H.  H.  in  the  novel. 

This  wife  of  Juan  Diego  is  still  living  at  Cahuilla.     A 


ii6 


ti'.iin  r;m  lie  uhtaiucrl  at  cither  San  Jacinto  rir  llcniet  aiul 
llu'  (lri\c  ti)  lur  hoinu  takoii.  It  is  a  "camping-out"  trip 
and  will  rc(|iiiiL-  three  days  or  more.  The  distance  is  about 
forty  miles. 

The  old  church  where  the  fictitious  Ramona  is  said  to 
have  hecii  married  is  at  old  San  Diego,  and  the  bells  which 
were  rung  at  the  fictitious  marriage  of  this  fictitious  hero 
and  heroine  are  there  shown. 


The  Santa  Fc  Bridge  across  Canyon  Diablo. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

THE    INDIANS    OF     SOUTHERN    CALIFORNIA. 

Interest  in  the  Indians  has  been  mucli  increased  during 
the  past  decade.  The  American  people  are  slowly  be- 
ginning to  appreciate  the  aborigines.  The  time  has  passed 
when  the  brute  is  secure  of  applause  who  affirms  that  "the 
only  dead  Indian  is  the  good  Indian."  A  study  of  primi- 
tive invention,  of  basketry,  of  blanketry,  of  potter}',  of  sil- 
ver-ware, of  bead  work  and  other  Indian  industries  have 
demonstrated  the  Indian  the  possessor  of  much  imagination, 
inventive  genius,  poetic,  aesthetic  and  religious  aspiration. 
My  larger  book  on  Indian  Basketry  has  been  a  revelation 
to  thousands,  and  the  increased  study  induced  by  its  reading 
has  led  to  a  wonderful  change  of  sentiment  in  regard  to 
the  worth  of  the  Indians  themselves. 

Time  was  when  nearly  al!  California  Indians  were 
rudely  called  "Diggers."  Now  we  know  and  reasonably 
well  differentiate  them.  On  the  Colorado  River,  twenty 
miles  above  the  Needles,  (or  the  main  line  of  the  Santa  Fe) 
is  Fort  Mohave  reservation.  Here  are  many  Mohave 
Indians.  A  little  further  down  are  the  Chemehuevis. 
Below  Needles  is  another  band  of  Chemehuevis,  and  still 
twenty  or  more  miles  further  is  the  Parker  reservation  of 
Mohave  Indians.  At  Yuma  (on  the  main  line  of  the 
Southern  Pacific,  Sunset  Route)  are  the  Yumas,  a  warlike 
auf!  independent  people. 

It  it  is  remembered  that  tlic  missions  were  established 
for  the  Indians  the  traveler  will  naturally  expect  to  find 
aborigines  near  all  these  historic  structures.    He  will  be  dis- 


Tl8 


rippointcd.  There  arc  very  few  near  San  Diego,  practically 
none  at  San  Luis  Rey,  San  Juan  Capistrano,  San  Gabriel, 
Los  AnRcles,  San  Fernando,  Ventura  or  Santa  Barbara. 
Nearly  all  have  gone — fled  back  into  the  mountains  to  l)e 
away   from   the  white   man   who  has  been   their  curse  and 


An  Indian  Ready  for  the  Dance. 


An  Indian  BeUe. 


almost    Utter   annihilation.      Only    scattered   bands    remain, 
and  these  are  rapidly  diminishing  in  almost  every  case. 

From  Indio  one  may  drive  out  to  Torres,  a  mountain  to 
the  West  of  the  S.  P.  railway,  and  find  a  village  of  about 
two   hundred.     There   are   bands   also    at    Martinez    (near 


119 

Walters)  and  Palm  Springs  (five  miles  from  the  S.  P. 
station).  At  Banning  is  a  reservation  and  the  Catholic 
school  conducted  under  the  direction  of  Rev.  F.  A.  Hahn. 

Driving  desertwards,  about  forty  miles  from  San  Diego, 
one  will  find  a  few  Indian  bands  at  Santa  Ysabel,  Los 
Coyotes,  and  a  small  village  at  Mesa  Grande  on  a  moun- 
tain overlooking  Warner's  ranch,  from  which  the  Copahs 
were  recently  evicted.  This  band  and  others  from  Puerte  la 
Cruz  and  San  Felipe  (both  on  Warner's  ranch)  were  re- 
moved to  Pala,  reached  by  carriage  or  the  ramshackle 
mail  "rigs"  from  Oceanside,  a  distance  of  some  twenty- 
two  miles.  Above  Pala,  a  few  miles,  are  Pauma  and 
Rincon.  At  Saboba  near  San  Jacinto  is  a  small  village, 
and  forty  miles  up  the  mountain  is  Cahuilla,  the  scene  of 
incidents  incorporated  in  H.  H.'s  Raniona. 

A  few  miles  from  Temecula,  on  the  Santa  Fe  branch 
line,  is  the  Pachanga  reservation. 

There  are  Indian  schools  at  Riverside  and  Perris.  The 
Sherman  Institute  at  Riverside  is  especially  worthy  a  visit. 

Full  particulars  of  the  reservations  and  Indian  schools 
may  be  obtained  from  the  recent  reports  of  the  United 
States  Commissioner  of  Indian  Afifairs. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

HISTORIC    LANDMARKS    AND    HOW    TO   REACH    THEM. 

Naturally  the  intelligent  traveler  will  wish  to  see  all  the 
missions.     They  are  fully  described  elsewhere. 

.'\t  San  Diego  do  not  fail  to  see  the  Boundary  Monu- 
nKiU  l)etween  Mexico  and  the  United  States.  This  is  a 
carriage  drive.  Full  particulars  at  any  livery  stable  in 
Coronado  or  San  Diego.  Other  landmarks  worth  visiting 
from  San  Diego  are  Point  Loma,  the  Government  Break- 
water, the  Sweetwater  Dam,  Old  San  Diego,  and  the 
former  home  of  Mrs.  U.  S.  Grant.  Drive  also  to  San 
Pasqual,  the  battleground  between  the  Spanish  Californians 
and  Kearney's  forces;  then  to  Warner's  Ranch,  where  the 
evicted  Indians  lived  until  1903,  when  they  were  removed 
to  Pala.  On  returning  see  the  graveyard  and  Brush  Mis- 
sion chapel  of  Santa  Ysabel.  At  the  Chamber  of  Com- 
merce see  the  old  Spanish  guns  brought  from  the  Philip- 
pines in  the  early  days  of  the  Spanish  occupancy  of  Cali- 
fornia. 

At  Oceanside  drive  out  to  San  Luis  Rey,  Guajome 
Rancho,  Santa  Margarita  Rancho,  Pala  (where  the  evicted 
Indians  from  Warner's  Ranch  are  now  living)  and  up  to 
Pauma  and  Rincon  (both  Indian  villages"). 

In  Lns  .Kngelcs  visit  the  site  of  old  Fort  Moore,  near  the 
Hitjh  School,  the  Fremont  Home.  Sonoratown.  where  the 
main  town  once  was,  the  plaza,  the  mission  chapel,  op- 
posite the  plaza,  and  the  Don  Antonio  Coronel  Collection  of 


curiosities  and  Spanish  and  Indian  antiquities  in  the 
Chamber  of  Commerce. 

Visit  also  the  Dona  Encarnacion  Abila  residence,  14,  16 
and  18  Olivera  street.  This  was  Commodore  Stockton's 
headquarters  when  he  was  in  Los  Angeles.  In  front  cf 
the  court  house  are  two  cannon.  These  were  Gillespie's, 
and  he  took  them  with  him  after  his  capitulation  in  Los 
Angeles,  elsewhere,  described.  The  Twin  Palms  are  on 
College  street  and  the  S.  P.  freight  yards.  These  were 
planted  very  early  in  the  history  of  Los  Angeles. 

Visit  also  El  Reclieo,  the  house  of  Don  Antonio  Coronel, 
where  Helen  Hunt  Jackson  visited  much  while  in  Los 
Angeles.     It  is  situated  near  Seventh  and  Alameda  streets. 

At  Santa  Catalina  see  the  old  quarry  of  prehistoric  mor- 
tars, in  the  soapstone ;  a  quarry  which  supplied  many 
mortars  to  the  Indians  of  the  mainland  of  California. 

While  in  Los  Angeles,  obtain  from  Mr.  Thomas  Pas- 
coe,  proprietor  of  the  Fremont  Hotel,  corner  of  Fourth 
and  Olive  streets,  a  small  pamphlet  written  by  the  author 
of  this  Guide  Book,  entitled  "Fremont  in  California."  It 
is  historic  and  useful,  though  a  hotel  advertising  pamphlet. 

Do  not  forget  also  to  visit,  in  Los  Angeles,  the  oil  pro- 
ducing region,  which  though  still  producing,  is  destined 
to  become  historic. 

At  San  Juan  Capistrano  do  not  fail  to  see  the  carved 
statues  and  the  dresses,  etc.,  in  charge  of  the  sacristan. 
Visit  the  beach  at  the  Point  made  memorable  by  Dana  in 
his  "Two  Years  Before  the  Mast."  Mr.  Mendelson  will 
arrange  to  drive  any  one  to  this  place  and  also  to  the 
Hot  Springs  used  by  the  padres. 

At  San  Gabriel  drive  out  to  the  old  mill.  Call  at  the 
Cannino  Real  station  (the  King's  Highway  station)  kept 
liy  Mrs.  S.  A.  P.  Wheeler,  a  most  kindly  and  genial  lady 
who  will  give  travelers  much  valuable  information. 


In  Pasadena  drive  to  Devil's  Gate  in  the  Arroyo  Scco 
and  see  the  Glacial  markings  there.  A  little  further  up 
to  the  foothills  is  the  grave  of  Owen  Brown,  the  son  of 
the  Hero  of  Harper's  Ferry.  Ride  up  Mount  Lowe  and 
the  guide  there  can  show  the  canyon  where  the  trees  were 
taken  that  Chapman,  the  pirate  mill  builder,  who  erected 
the  old  mill  at  San  Gabriel,  used  for  that  building.  Just 
above  Echo  Mountain  is  the  Lowe  Observatory,  established 
by  Professor  T.  S.  C.  Lowe  in  1894,  and  presided  over 
then  by  Dr.  Lewis  Swift,  now  by  Professor  E.  L.  Larkin. 
From  near  Alpine  Tavern  can  be  seen  the  station  of  the 
Forest  Rangers  of  the  United  States  Forest  Reserve,  and 
across  the  Grand  Basin,  in  which  John  Muir  rambled  when 
gathering  material  for  his  articles  on  The  Bee  Ranches  of 
Southern  California,  can  be  seen  Wilson's  Peak,  on  which 
Harvard  University  used  to  have  a  small  astronomical 
observatory. 

At  Whittier,  reached  by  electric  cars,  visit  the  old  honi' 
(one  of  them)  of  Don  Pio  Pico,  the  last  Mexican  gov- 
ernor of  California.  Over  the  hills  is  Puente,  the  location 
of  the  first  oil  wells  discovered  in  Southern  California. 

At  Ventura  are  two  historic  old  palms  planted  in  early 
days.  One  belongs  to  the  Native  Daughters'  Improvement 
Club,  presented  by  Archbishop  George  Montgomery.  The 
other  is  on  private  property.  Two  small  museums  of  early 
California  relics  may  be  seen  in  Ventura.  One  is  the 
collection  of  Stephen  Bowers,  the  other  belongs  to  the  estate 
of  the  late  Dr.  C.  L.  Bard.  At  Brewster's  photographic 
studio  photos  may  be  seen  of  interesting  historic  characters, 
and  a  set  made  by  him  to  illustrate  some  phases  of  the  story 
of  Ramona. 

On  the  way  to  Santa  Barbara  stop  off  at  Carpintcria  and 
see  the  largest  grape  vine  in  the  world,  over  si.Kty  years 
old,   and   then    ride   on   to    Summerland   and   visit   the   oil 


^23 

wells  built  on  piers  out  in  the  ocean.  This  1?  a  sight  to 
remember,  and  is  too  unique  to  be  ignored. 

At  Santa  Barbara  visit  the  old  comandante's  residence, 
the  Museum  of  Natural  Histor\%  the  mission,  the  acque- 
ducts  behind  the  mission,  the  painted  cave,  fourteen  miles 
east  of  the  city,  and,  if  possible,  ascend  to  the  pass  over 
which  Fremont  came  on  that  memorable  Christmas  when 
he  lost  so  many  horses.  The  ruined  De  Aguirre  residence, 
used  as  the  barracks  of  the  first  California  Volunteers,  and 
the  De  La  Guerra  residence,  both  types  of  old  Spanish 
residences  are  well  worthy  of  visit. 

From  Santa  Barbara  drive  to  Santa  Ynez,  the  location 
of  another  mission,  which  can  be  as  easily  reached  this  way 
as  any. 

At  Palm  Springs,  five  miles  from  the  station  of  that 
name  on  the  main  line  of  the  Southern  Pacific,  visit 
the  wonder  spring,  which,  though  bottomless  and  bubbling 
up  gently  and  noiselessly,  refuses  to  allow  any  bather  to 
.  sink  lower  than  his  shoulders ;  and  spend  a  few  days  in 
visiting  the  ancient  palms  in  Palm  Canyon,  Murray  Can- 
yon, Lukens  Canyon,  etc.  These  are  aged  beyond  the 
missions  and  as  fascinating  and  aweinspiring  as  the  big 
trees  (the  Sequoias)  of  the  groves  near  the  Yosemite.  Go 
in  winter,  however,  as  it  is  too  hot  in  summer.  In  winter 
it  is  as  delightful  a  trip  as  can  be  found  anywhere  away 
from  cities  and  made  roads. 

At  Santa  Monica,  reached  directly  from  Los  Angeles  by 
electric  car  and  Southern  Pacific,  visit  the  great  wharf, 
built  by  C.  P.  Huntington,  of  the  Southern  Pacific.  It  is 
4,620  feet  long. 

Near  San  Pedro  is  Deadman's  Island,  on  which  the 
soldiers  killed  in  the  fight  at  Dominguez  between  Ameri- 
cans and  Mexicans  w'cre  buried. 


\J4 

At  South  I'asadcna  visit  the  ostrich  farm,  historic  as 
being  the  first  ostrich  farm  in  America. 

Baldwin's  rancli  is  destined  to  be  historic.  Here  are 
the  stables  of  the  fine  horses,  and  near  the  house  is  one  of 
the  mission  bells,  now  used  for  calling  the  hands  to  dinner. 

At  Sierra  Madrc  is  the  Sierra  Madre  Villa,  one  of  the 
first  of  the  noted  hotels  of  California  and  well  worthy  a 
visit. 

At  .Arrowhead,  on  tlie  kite  shaped  track,  are  the  famed 
Arrow,  an  Indian  signal  on  the  mountain,  and  the  long- 
famed  hot  springs,  used  for  centuries  by  aborigines,  Span- 
iards and  Mexicans  prior  to  the  coming  of  the  present-day 
citizens. 

At  San  Bernardino  arc  the  ruins  of  the  so-called  mon- 
astery, where  priests  from  San  Gabriel  and  San  Juan  Cap- 
istrano  used  to  come  and  preach. 

Bloomington,  on  the  inside  track  of  the  Southern  Pa- 
cific, is  destined  to  be  historic  as  there  caitaigrc,  the  new 
tanning  material-furnisher,  was  first  cultivated.  It  grows 
wild  in  many  parts  of  Southern  California. 

Smiley  Heights  at  Redlands  is  already  historic,  and  on. 
who  wishes  to  see  what  has  made  Redlands  should  visit 
the  Bear  Valley  Dam  up  in  the  San  Bernardino  Moun- 
tains. It  is  a  drive  of  exquisite  beauty,  rugged  grandeur 
and  stirring  experiences.  Riverside,  reached  by  both  Santa 
Fe  and  Southern  Pacific,  is  historic  as  the  first  American 
home  of  the  navel  orange.  At  the  Glenwood  Hotel  is  the 
historic  tree,  transplanted  by  President  Roosevelt  in  1903. 
from  which  all  the  later  stock  has  sprung. 

All  the  Indian  villages  near  to  the  railway  as  Potrero 
(near  Banning),  Saboba.  (near  San  Jacinto).  Palm 
Springs,  Martinez,  etc..  should  be  visited  by  those  who 
wish  to  inform  themselves  of  the  descendants  of  the  former 


125 

"First  Families  of  Southern  Cnlifornia,"  the  true  "Native 
Sons  and  Daughters, "  and  the  bluest  of  all  tlie  "Blue- 
Bloods." 

Of  ceurse  the  Soldiers'  Home,  near  Santa  Monica,  is 
liistoric  in  the  proud  possession  of  its  old  warriors,  God 
hiess  them !  Every  patriot  should  visit  the  Home  and 
cheer  the  old  braves  with  a  hearty  handshake  and  smile 
and  expression  of  good  will.  When  you  go,  don't  stand 
aloof  from  them,  but  go  and  speak  to  them  and  voice  the 
gratitude  you  feel  at  the  share  these  rugged  old  warriors 
had  in  giving  you  a  free  country. 


CIIAPTRR  VIII. 

THE    SEVEN    COt'NTIES    OF    SOL'THERN    CAI.IFORMA. 

A  brief,  and  necessarily,  cursory  survey  of  the  seven 
Counties  that  make  up  Southern  California  will  reveal  to  the 
Eastern  tourist  that  he  is  not  only  coming  into  a  land  of 
climate  and  scenery,  but  also  of  marvellous  horticultural, 
agricultural,  floricultural,  apicultural,  mineral  and  other  re- 
sources. Indeed,  Southern  California  is  large,  self  depend- 
ent, and,  if  a  few  more  manufactories  were  introduced,  she 
would  include  all  the  essentials  of  a  healthy  and  vigorous 
existence  within  her  own  borders. 

Sauta  Barbara  County  is  bounded,  north  by  San  Luis 
Obispo  County,  east  by  Ventura,  south  by  Santa  Barbara 
Ciiannel,  and  west  by  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

Its  area  is  2,265  square  miles,  or  1,449,600  acres.  Unen- 
tered Government  land,  330,000  acres. 

Topography. — A  large  part  of  the  northeastern  portion 
of  the  country  is  rugged  mountains,  containing  some  few 
small  fertile  valleys.  The  county  is  divided  east  and  west 
by  the  Santa  Ynez  Mountains.  The  northern  portion,  the 
most  extensive,  comprises  four  important  valleys — Santa 
Maria,  Lompoc,  Los  Alamos,  and  Santa  Ynez.  The  south- 
ern part,  between  mountains  and  ocean,  is  called  Santa  Bar- 
bara Valley  in  general,  and  comprises  Carpinteria,  Monte- 
cito,  Goleta,  and  Ellwood.  The  following  represents  the 
acreage  of  all  the  foregoing  and  the  islands :  Santa  Maria 
and  adjuncts,  250,000;  Los  Alamos,  150,000;  Lompoc,  230,- 
000;  Santa  Ynez,  200,000;  Santa  Barbara,  108,000;  two 
islands,  150,000. 

Soils. — Santa  Barbara  Vallev  in  its  lower  levels  is  allu- 


127 

vial,  very  deep  and  fertile,  producing  famous  crops  of  lima 
beans,  fresh  berries,  and  vegetables  the  year  round ;  the 
upper  part,  somewhat  adobe,  black  and  fertile,  is  devoted  to 
cereals,  mustard,  flax  and  pasture.  The  soils  of  the  north- 
ern valleys  are  mostly  loam.  On  the  west,  near  the  sea, 
they  are  somewhat  heavier.  The  Santa  Maria  Valley  is  a 
sand  loam,  while  its  extension  the  Siquoc  Valley  is  deeper 
and  richer.  The  lower  and  northern  valley  grows  large 
crops  of  beans  and  potatoes,  and  higher  up  to  wheat  and 
barley.  The  future  of  the  entire  section  lies  in  its  adapta- 
bility to  fruits  of  all  kinds,  varied  according  to  soil  and 
location. 

Climate. — Few  places  in  the  world  can  show  so  remark- 
able a  record.  For  twenty  years  the  mercury  has  only 
once  reached  31  degrees,  and  once  as  high  as  102  degrees. 
The  average  for  thirteen  years  varied  from  55  degrees  to 
71  degrees.  There  are  over  310  pleasant  days  in  a  year, 
five  rainy,  twelve  showery,  twenty-nine  cloudy,  and  ten 
windy.  The  strip  of  land  along  the  south  coast  bears  a 
striking  resemblance  to  Riviera.  An  invalid  could  be  out  all 
day  for  346  days  in  the  year,  without  discomfort.  Surf 
bathing  in  midwinter  is  common ;  the  temperature  of  the 
water  only  varies  six  degrees,  summer  and  winter.  The 
average  annual  rainfall  is  about  eighteen  inches. 

In  agriculture  and  horticulture  Santa  Barbara  sustains 
a  high  position,  and  in  floriculture  it  equals  any  region 
in  the  world.  It  is  the  florist's  paradise,  all  varieties  of 
flowers  and  shrubs  growing  in  the  greatest  profusion. 

North  of  the  mountains,  and  in  the  coast  region,  stock 
raising  and  dairying  are  carried  on  to  a  considerable  ex- 
tent, and  the  fisheries  of  the  coast  are  exceedingly  valuable. 

Extensive  mineral  deposits  are  found  throughout  the 
mountain  ranges,  and  there  is  also  much  useful  timber. 

J'eiitura. — Ventura  County  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 


128 

Kiiii  ;iii(l  San   Luis  ()l)i.-i>o  Comities,  cast  hy  Los  Aii^ck-. 
west  l)y  Santa  Uarhara,  and  smitli  liy  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

It  lias  an  area  of  1,682  sqnarc  miles,  or  1.076.480  acres. 

Unentered  govcnmient  land,  500,000  acres. 

Topofinipliy. — About  onc-lialf  of  this  county  is  arable 
land  and  very  fertile,  needing  irrigation  in  many  places  to 
insure  productiveness.  The  mountains  are  mostly  low  and 
timbered,  except  in  the  north,  where  the  range  running  east 
and  west  rises  to  over  6,000  feet.  The  valleys  are  fertili  . 
tlie  principal  of  which  are  the  Santa  Clara ;  Camulos,  the 
alleged  home  of  the  "Ramona"  of  Helen  Hunt  Jackson; 
Ojai,  with  its  well-timbered  basin  of  productive  soil,  heavy 
in  wheat  and  favorable  for  orange  culture ;  Conejo,  on  the 
northern  slope,  of  Guadalasca  Mountains,  well  watered  and 
productive  of  grain;  Simi,  with  its  splendid  oak  forests 
and  grazing  lands ;  Santa  Ana.  with  cultivated  farms  and 
orchards;  Los  Posas,  with  immense  wheat  fields  and  semi- 
tropic  fruits;  Sespe,  and  San  Buenaventura.  The  Santa 
Clara  River  traverses  the  county  from  northeast  to  south- 
west, with  its  tributaries,  the  Santa  Paula,  Sespe,  and  Piru. 
The  Ventura  rises  in  the  San  Rafael  range  and  flows  due 
south  to  the  sea. 

\'entura  County  has  enough  water  flowing  naturally  to 
rupply  all  its  land.;,  and  wheat  and  barley  are  largely  pro- 
duced. More  beans  are  raised  in  this  county  than  in  all  the 
remainder  of  California,  one  bean-field  alone  covering  over 
2,000  acres. 

In  horticulture,  Ventura  is  reaching  a  high  standard,  and 
stock-raising  and  apiculture  are  both  carried  on  to  a  profit- 
able extent. 

The  mountains  contain  many  valuable  minerals,  and  there 
are  a  large  number  of  productive  oil-wells. 

NordhoflF.  the  famous  resort  for  invalids,  the  charming  Ojai 
Valley,  and  several  other  excellent  resorts  are  located  in 
Ventura  Count  v. 


129 

Los  Angeles. — Los  Angeles  County  is  bounded,  north  by 
Kern,  east  by  San  Bernardino,  south  by  Orange  County  and 
the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  west  by  Ventura  County.  It  has  an 
area  of  4,142  square  miles,  or  2,650,880  acres. 

Topography. — About  four-fifths  of  the  area  of  Los  Ange- 
les County  are  capable  of  cultivation,  with  water  supplied, 
the  remainder  being  mountainous.  The  shore  line  is  85 
miles  in  length,  the  county  extending  from  30  to  50  miles 
hack  from  the  ocean.  The  northern  portion  of  the  county 
is  a  part  of  what  is  now  called  the  Mohave  Desert,  the  west- 
ern section  of  which,  known  as  the  Antelope  Valley,  is  being 
rapidly  settled  and  cultivated.  South  of  this,  extending 
almost  to  Los  Angeles  City,  is  the  great  San  Fernando  Val- 
ley. East  of  Los  Angeles  is  the  beautiful  San  Gabriel 
Valley,  shut  in  from  the  north  by  pine-clad  mountains.  This, 
in  turn  opens  into  the  Pomona  Valley.  Both  are  celebrated 
for  their  horticultural  products  and  beautiful  homes.  West- 
ward from  the  county  seat  towards  the  ocean,  extends  the 
Santa  Monica  range  of  low  mountains.  South  of  this  range 
between  the  city  and  the  ocean,  is  a  wide  and  fertile  plain 
with  several  small  settlements.  Southeast  of  Los  Angeles 
is  the  Los  Nietos  Valley,  a  fertile  section,  with  plenty  of 
moisture,  where  there  are  many  dairies,  corn  and  alfalfa 
fields  as  well  as  orchards.  More  than  60  per  cent,  of  the 
development  so  far,  has  been  in  the  southern  portion  of  the 
county,  most  of  the  steep  mountains  and  waste  land  lying 
in  the  northern  section. 

Los  Angeles  county  is  well  supplied  with  water  for  irri- 
gation, the  flow  of  the  San  Gabriel  and  Los  Angeles  rivers 
being  supplemented  by  the  flowing  artesian  wells  of  Pomona, 
Antelope  and  San  Fernando  valleys. 

Its  agricultural  and  horticultural  resources  are  great,  and, 
as  there  are  several  narrow  belts  in  the  county  where  frost 
is  practically  unknown,  delicate  vegetables,  such  as  tomatoes, 


130 

cliilc  peppers,  string  beans  and  green  peas  arc  raised  and 
slii|)|)od  in  midwinter  to  San  Francisco  and  eastern  points, 
rfalizing  fniicy  prices,  as  well  as  supplying  the  home  mar- 
ket, which  is  large,  owing  to  the  great  influx  of  eastern 
visitors  every  winter.  Los  Angeles  county  also  has  con- 
siderable stock  raising,  and  the  mineral  resources  are  grow- 
ing in  value.  The  oil  developments  in  the  boundaries  of 
the  city  of  Los  Angeles  have  created  quite  a  little  excite- 
ment, and  with  the  former  steady  yields  at  Puente  and 
Newhali,  make  this  a  most  important  industry. 

Harbors. — The  shipping  ports  of  Los  Angeles  are  San 
Pedro,  Redondo,  and  Santa  Monica — where  the  Southern 
Pacific  company  has  built  a  wharf  4,600  feet  long — and 
I^ng  Beach. 

The  United  States  government  is  constructing  the  deep 
water  harbor  at  San  Pedro  and  it  is  fully  described  else- 
where. 

Orange  County  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Los  Angeles, 
cast  by  San  Bernardino,  south  by  San  Diego,  and  west  by 
the  Pacific  Ocean. 

Statistics. — Area,  675  square  miles,  or  429,502  acres 
Lands  assessed,  429,502  acres. 

Fruit  raising  is  the  most  important  industry,  oranges  in 
the  lead.  In  1900  the  assessor's  books  gave  the  following 
figures,  now  much  increased :  Apples,  264  acres ;  apricots, 
1,468  acres;  figs,  70  acres;  Olives,  1,200  acres;  peaches,  480 
acres;  pears,  78  acres;  prunes,  692  acres;  lemons,  1,020 
acres;  oranges,  4,950  acres;  walnuts,  6,100  acres;  peanuts, 
550  acres. 

While  the  walnut  acreage  is  large,  many  of  the  trees  are 
young  and  the  output  is  not  so  large  as  that  of  oranges. 
Yet  California  produces  all  the  English  walnuts  of  the 
United  States  and  Orange  County  grows  fully  half  of  all 
of  California's  product. 


131 

There  are  two  large  canneries  of  fruit,  one  at  Santa  Ana, 
and  one  at  Anaheim,  with  an  annual  output  of  over  a  mil- 
lion and  a  half  of  cans. 

In  wheat  and  barley  its  7S,ooo  acres  yielded  in  1900 
65,000  tons.  There  are  six  creameries  and  in  addition  to 
supplying  the  home  market  over  10,000  pounds  of  butter  are 
shipped  out  of  the  county  weekly.  At  Buena  Park  is  a  con- 
densed milk  factory  which  uses  50,000  pounds  of  milk  and 
has  about  fifty  employees. 

Seven  miles  southwest  of  Santa  Ana  are  the  wonderful 
celery  beds.  These  are  in  peat  lands,  ranging  in  depth  from 
one  to  twenty  feet.  Mr.  Smelzer,  of  Kansas  City,  Mo.,  saw 
the  land  and  his  opportunity,  bought  up  all  he  could  pur- 
chase and  began  the  planting  of  celery.  In  a  few  years  he 
had  amassed  a  vast  fortune  and  started  a  new  industry  in 
Southern  California.  The  celery  reaches  the  New  York, 
Boston  and  Chicago  markets  when  the  Eastern  fields  are 
frozen  and  nearly  2,000  carloads  per  year  are  shipped  across 
the  continent.  It  yields  so  as  to  pay  from  $100  to  $150  per 
acre. 

Sugar  beet  culture  is  also  largely  carried  on,  there  being 
already  one  large  sugar  factory  in  operation.  Oil  is  found 
largely,  certain  wells  yielding  from  300  to  700  barrels  a  day. 

Topography,  Soil,  and  Climate. — Orange  is  a  small  county, 
but  in  compensation  for  this,  a  large  proportion  of  its  area 
is  arable,  there  being  comparatively  little  steep  mountain 
land.  There  are  65  square  miles  of  mountains,  100  of  foot- 
hills, and  510  of  valley.  The  climate  is  mild  and  equable, 
no  point  being  more  than  twenty  miles  distant  from  the 
ocean.  It  does  not  materially  differ  from  that  of  Los 
Angeles  County.  Tlie  soil  is  exceedingly  fertile,  and  in 
the  northern  portion  of  the  county  irrigation  facilities  are 
ample,  there  being  100  miles  of  ditches  and  over  1,000  flow- 
ing artesian  wells.     In  the  south,  one-fourth  of  the  area  of 


132 

llic  county  is  taken  up  by  tiic  great  San  Joaqnin  Ranch  of 
107,000  acres,  whicli  is  at  present  devoted  almost  entirely  to 
tlic  raising  of  barley  and  cattle.  In  the  mountains  are  de- 
posits of  galena,  silver,  quicksilver,  coal,  and  other  minerals. 

San  Bernardino  County  is  bounded  north  by  State  of 
Nevada  and  Inyo  County,  east  by  the  State  of  Nevada  and 
Arizona  Territory,  south  by  Riverside  and  Orange  counties, 
and  west  by  Orange,  Los  Angeles  and  Kern  counties.  This 
is  the  largest  county  in  the  State. 

It  has  an  area  of  22,886  square  miles,  or  14,647.040  acres. 

Topography. — A  largo  part  of  the  area  of  the  county  is 
arid  land,  and  wild,  rugged  mountains,  abounding  in  min- 
eral wealth.  To  the  south  and  west  of  these  lie  nearly 
1,000  square  miles  of  vine-clad  and  orchard-covered  valleys, 
well  styled  the  Italy  of  America.  In  the  range  of  moun- 
tains which  separates  this  from  the  desert.  Mount  San  Ber- 
nardino, elevation  10,225,  and  Mount  San  Gorgonio,  eleva- 
tion 11,090  feet,  are  conspicuous  features.  The  Mohave 
Desert  is  largely  a  sandy  waste,  with  occasional  volcanic 
mountain  ridges  and  peaks  and  alkali  tracts,  without  other 
growth  than  the  yucca,  small  nut  pines,  and  occasional 
juniper.  Beds  of  dry  lakes  and  creeks  abound,  hot  springs, 
boiling  mud  lakes,  salt  beds,  borax  deposits,  and  sulphur. 

Soils. — The  soil  of  the  arable  portion  varies  from  a  sandy 
loam,  mixed  with  gravel,  on  the  high  mesas  or  tablelands, 
to  a  black,  heavy  damp  loam  on  the  river  bottoms.  The  red 
soil  of  Redlands  is  characteristic  of  the  foothills.  Old 
San  Bernardino  has  a  heavy  black  loam.  Rialto,  a  sandy 
and  gravelly  loam.  Cucamonga.  a  light  sandy  soil ;  Ontario, 
a  gravelly  loam,  warm  and  fertile.  On  the  terrace  at  Colton, 
a  rich,  deep  loam ;  on  the  river  bottoms,  a  cold,  damp  clay. 
All  these  soils,  except  the  alkali  and  river  bottom  damp 
clays,  are  first  class  fruit  lands. 


133 

The  irrigation  systems  of  San  Bernardino  GDunty  are 
world  renowned. 

This  county  has  quite  a  record  for  its  apiculture,  about 
400,000  pounds  of  honey  being  produced  yearly. 

In  its  agriculture,  horticulture  and  stock  interests  San 
Barnardino  has  great  wealth,  and  its  timber  and  minerals 
are  very  extensive. 

Sail  Diego. — San  Diego  County  is  bounded  north  by 
Orange  and  Riverside  Counties,  east  by  Arizona,  south  by 
Mexico,  or  Lower  California,  and  west  by  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
It  is  next  in  size  to  San  Bernai^ino  County. 

It  has  an  area  of  8,555  square  miles,  or  5,472,000  acres. 

Topography. — San  Diego  is  the  most  southern  county  in 
the  State,  being  bounded  by  Mexico  on  the  south.  A  large 
area  is  desert,  so  called,  but  which  only  needs  water  for 
irrigation  to  be  productive.  The  county  extends  back  from 
the  ocean  to  the  Colorado  River,  and  in  elevation  from  250 
feet  below  to  10,987  feet  above  sea  level.  Within  these 
limits  may  be  found  almost  every  variety  of  soil  and 
climate.  There  are  three  distinct  belts,  beginning  at  the 
coast  and  extending  back  into  the  desert  region.  From  the 
coast  line,  75  miles  in  length,  back  to  the  hill  country,  a 
distance  of  30  or  40  miles,  are  low  valleys,  with  intervening 
mesas  and  hills.  The  second  division  includes  the  mountain 
region  of  the  interior,  where  minerals  are  found  and  decidu- 
ous fruits  raised.  The  third  section  is  the  desert,  which 
covers  about  two-thirds  of  the  area  of  the  county.  This 
region  has  great  possibilities,  under  irrigation.  Recently, 
San  Diego  has  entered  upon  a  course  of  improvement  and 
enterprise,  proving  that  she  does  not  rely  altogether  upon 
the  advantages  of  her  fine  bay  and  peerless  climate. 

Soils. — The  mesa  lands,  for  the  most  part,  have  a  reddish 
and  very  fertile  soil.  Near  National  City  is  a  red  clayey 
soil.    El  Cajon  has  loams  resembling  Riverside  lands.    Otay 


134 

district  is  largely  black  adobe,  very  strong.  Jamul  and 
Janal  are  divided  between  black  and  gray  adobe  and  sandy 
loam. 

Climate. — San  Diegans  are  justly  proud  of  tbe  equable 
and  dcliglitful  climate  of  the  coast  region  of  the  county.  At 
San  Diego,  during  twenty  years,  of  the  7,304  days  5,768  were 
clear  or  fair,  and  there  were  only  874  days  in  which  rain 
fell.  During  seventeen  years,  out  of  the  6,205  days,  there 
were  only  199  when  the  temperature  rose  above  eighty  de- 
grees and  only  three  when  it  fell  to  32  degrees.  Farther 
inland  the  summer  climate  becomes  warmer.  On  the  desert 
it  is  very  hot  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  In  the 
higher  mountain  regions  the  climate  is  bracing,  with  some 
snow  in  winter,  and  a  heavy  rainfall.  The  average  annual 
rainfall  at  San  Diego  city  is  ten  inches. 

Irrigation — The  irrigation  systems  of  San  Diego  county 
arc  extensive,  and  the  agricultural  and  horticultural  re- 
sources have  given  some  sections  of  it  a  most  enviable  rec- 
ord through  the  country.  In  honey  exports  it  surpasses 
San  Bernardino,  having  shipped  about  500  tons  in  1892. 

Stock-raising  is  extensively  carried  on  in  the  upper  alti- 
tudes, and  in  the  mountain  regions  there  is  much  mineral 
wealth,  and,  also,  extensive  tracts  of  valuable  timber. 

Riverside. — This  country  is  formed  of  segregated  portions 
of  San  Bernardino  and  San  Diego  counties,  extending  across 
the  State  from  the  ocean  to  the  Colorado  River.  San  Bernard- 
ino surrenders  590  square  miles,  and  San  Diego  6,418  square 
miles  to  form  the  new  county.  San  Bernardino  parts  with 
tbe  rich  valleys  and  foothills  of  the  southwest  section,  in- 
cluding the  towns  of  Riverside,  South  Riverside,  Alessan- 
dro,  Beaumont  and  Banning.  San  Diego  loses  the  district 
embracing  Elsinore,  San  Jacinto,  Winchester,  ^lurietta  and 
Fallbrook.  The  new  county  appropriates  $8,700,000  of  San 
Bernardino  assessment,  and  $3,849,114  of  San  Diego,  mak- 


135 

ing  a  total  assessed  valuation  of  $12,540,114.  This  was  in 
1890. 

Riverside  comprises  a  large  area  of  fertile  land.  Much 
of  this  territory  is  desert,  but  the  majority  of  the  eastern 
end  of  the  county  is  susceptible  of  cultivation.  In  point 
of  size,  the  county  is  about  as  large  as  the  State  of  Massa- 
chusetts. The  population  numbers  13,745,  mainly  located  in 
the  northwestern  portion.  The  northeastern  portion  is  de- 
voted almost  entirely  to  citrus  culture,  while  the  vast  area 
of  the  San  Jacinto  plains  is  devoted  to  agriculture  pending 
the  development  of  water  for  irrigation.  Some  idea  of  the 
extent  of  this  industry  may  be  obtained  when  it  is  stated 
that  over  200,000  acres  are  now  sown  to  grain,  showing 
an  average  yield  for  the  entire  area  of  nearly  13  cwt.  per 
acre  or  nearly  20  bushels,  with  a  maximum  yield  in  favored 
localities  of  from  30  to  45  bushels  per  acre.  Nearly  all  this 
land  is  under  first-class  irrigation  systems.  The  Bear  Val- 
ley Water  Company  has  extended  its  pipe  lines  to  supply 
Perris,  Alessandro  and  Moreno.  The  Riverside  Construc- 
tion Company  is  also  developing  artesian-water-bearing 
land,  while  the  great  Lake  Hefnet  water  system  is  bringing 
under  irrigation  a  large  portion  of  the  magnificent  alluvial 
land  of  the  San  Jacinto  Valley.  The  county  has,  therefore, 
just  reached  that  stage  of  development  where  it  only  re- 
quires population  to  stimulate  progress.  The  conditions 
which  made  Riverside  the  wealthiest  city,  per  capita,  in  the 
United  States,  and  perhaps  in  the  world,  are  all  present 
in  this  outlying  territory,  and  its  acquisition  of  wealth  will 
be  in  ratio  as  its  population  increases. 

The  scenery  is  enchanting,  especially  in  the  famous  San 
Jacinto  Valley,  where  the  deep  amethyst  hue  of  the  beauti- 
ful hills  challenges  the  enthusiasm  of  all  who  behold  them. 
The  entire  country  is  divided  into  broad  valleys  between 
low,  irregular  foot-hills  crowned  by  the  lofty  San  Jacinto 


136 


niDiinlaiiis,  wlmsr  liij^licst  crests  ;irc  jK-rpctiially  snow 
capped. 

Jhesc  mountains  and  foot-hills  contain  large  mineral  de- 
posits, and  mining  is  one  of  the  most  important  industries 
of  the  region.  Many  large  gold  and  silver  bearing  mines 
arc  in  operation  near  Perris.  Coal  is  also  mined  near 
Elsinore  and  Corona. 

This  region  not  only  possesses  remarkable  climate  and 
soil,  but  also  has  an  abundance  of  water,  and  citrus  and  de- 
ciduous fruits,  the  fig  and  pomegranate,  vegetables  of  mam- 
moth proportions,  alfalfa  and  all  kinds  of  cereals  may  be 
grown  on  the  same  acre  of  ground  with  a  great  degree  of 
success. 


^     —  y        Mf      *  — Wr^ 


CHAPTER  IX. 

I.OS     ANGELES — THE     METROPOLIS     OF     SOUTHERN      CALIFORNIA. 

Ciudad  dc  la  Rcina  dc  Los  Angeles,  (City  of  the  Queen 
of  the  Angels)  picturesque  in  name  as  in  location,  the 
verdure  of  whose  shady  streets  and  flowery  lawns  is  for- 
ever green,  and  whose  invigorating  atmosphere,  beautiful 
homes  and  business  enterprise  charm  and  attract  alike  the 
visitor,  the  sojourner  and  the  resident,  is,  in  size,  the  second 
city  in  California. 

The  very  name,  Los  Angeles,  has,  in  the  last  few  years 
become  a  talisman  to  attract  from  all  quarters  of  our  com- 
mon country  and  from  foreign  lands,  tourists,  health  seekers 
and  investors  in  large  and  ever  increasing  numbers.  Its 
rapid  increase  in  population,  independent  of  any  fleeting 
influences  attests  the  strength  of  the  attractions  that  the 
city  and  surrounding  country  offer.  In  1880  its  inhabitants 
numbered  a  trifle  over  11,000;  in  1890,  somewhat  over  50,- 
000;  while  now,  January,  1904,  a  conservative  estimate, 
based  upon  the  school  and  directory  canvasses,  places  the 
number  within  the  corporate  limits  at   145,000. 

FOUNDATION    OF   THE   CITY. 

More  than  a  hundred  years  ago  the  town  was  founded ; 
but,  born  in  romance  and  cradled  in  dreamy  ease,  it  passed 
the  first  fifty  years  of  its  existence  in  a  quiet  indolence  that 
gave  little  promise  of  a  future  greatness,  or  of  its  present 
commercial  importance. 

Yet,  the  fathers  of  the  old  San  Gabriel  Mission  chose 
wisely  when  in  1781  they  located  the  pueblo.  Twelve  Mex- 
ican soldiers  of  the  Mission  guard,  whose  terms  of  service 
had  expired,  and  who,  with  their  families  were  too  much 


'ifr 


Wi'^. 


Hii^ 


139 

in  love  with  the  country  and  its  climate  to  return  to  their 
earlier  homes,  were  the  first  settlers  of  the  infant  town. 
It  was  on  the  7th  of  September,  1781,  that  Governor  Felipe 
de  Neve  issued  the  order  from  the  San  Gabriel  Mission, 
establishing  a  town  or  pueblo  at  the  present  site  of  Los 
Angeles,  to  be  under  the  protection  of  Nticstra  Senora  La 
Reina  de  Los  Angeles,  and  there  these  twelve  soldiers, 
turning  their  spears  into  pruning  hooks,  began  to  build  a 
town  and  plant  orchards  and  vineyards. 

GROWTH    OF   THE   CITY. 

Very  slow  indeed  was  the  growth  of  the  town  for  fifty, 
yea  for  eighty  years.  The  opening  of  the  Santa  Fe  trail, 
in  183T,  first  brought  commercial  activity  within  its  borders. 
It  brought  the  overland  teamster  and  the  store  and  ware- 
house to  furnish  the  supplies  for  the  interior  between  the 
Rockies  and  the  Pacific.  In  1835,  it  had  become  the  Capital 
of  California.  Nine  j'ears  later,  during  the  war  with 
Mexico,  it  formed  the  center  of  warlike  operations  between 
the  scant  Mexican  soldiery  and  citizens  and  the  handful  of 
United  States  troops  under  Commodore  R.  F.  Stockton 
and  General  J.  C.  Fremont,  as  before  recounted. 

At  that  time  the  inhabitants  of  this,  the  metropolis  of  the 
coast,  numbered  but  a  trifle  over  2,000  souls.  Gold  was 
fir.^t  discovered  in  California  in  Los  Angeles  county  some 
35  miles  from  the  city,  but  neither  this  not  yet  the  discovery 
of  gold  near  San  Francisco  and  the  overland  migration  of 
the  days  of  '49,  served  to  effect  to  any  considerable  extent 
the  growth  or  prosperity  of  the  "City  of  the  Queen  of  the 
Angels."  Adobe  houses  and  mud  streets  were  good  enough 
as  yet  for  its  drowsy  people. 

In  i860  the  population  had  increased  to  4,300,  of  whom 
some  500  only  were  Americans.  Seventeen  years  later  the 
Southern  Pacific  Railway  built  its  line  from  San  Francisco 


I40 

to  Los  Angeles,  overlaiul  rail  connection  followed  and  the 
city  began  to  throw  off  its  ancient  lethargy  and  to  rise  to 
the  natural  advantages  of  its  location.  In  1885  a  second 
transcontinental  line — the  Santa  Fe — arrived,  giving  direct 
rail  connection  with  Chicago  and  the  East,  and  thenceforth 
the  city  has  grown,  is  still  growing,  and  will  doubtlessly 
conlini-.e  to  grow,  svith  giant  strides.  The  impetus  given  by 
the  influx  of  so  much  fresh  blood  and  so  much  new  busi- 
ness as  followed  the  advent  of  the  Santa  Fe  Railway  brought 
on  a  speculative  fever  that  resulted  in  a  wild  mania  for 
inflating  values  to  unheard  of  heights.  This  phase  is  gen- 
erally known  and  referred  to  as  "The  Boom." 

Few  cities  of  her  size  and  youth,  for  remember — but  a 
few  years  since  Los  Angeles  was  a  small  town  of  scarce 
5.000  people, — a  collection  of  adobe  or  frame  one-story 
buildings,  with  only  occasionally  one  rising  to  the  dignity 
of  a  two-storied  mansion, — not  many  towns  of  her  age, 
liuis  considered,  can  boast  of  the  marvelous  growth  she 
has  made. 

But  then,  Los  Angeles  is  favored  by  nature  and  by  her 
location  as  is  no  other  city.  Situated  midway  between  the 
ocean  and  the  mountains  which  lie  in  plain  view  of  one 
another  and  both  in  plain  sight  of  the  Angelenos.  or  citizen 
of  Los  Angeles,  having  three  ports  of  entry  for  shipping, 
and  being  the  largest  railway  centre  in  the  State,  she  is  in 
a  position  to  control  a  vast  commerce,  to  secure  the  trade 
of  a  great  number  of  tributary  towns  that  are  springing 
up  as  tlic  surrounding  valleys  are  being  settled,  and  become 
the  entrepot  for  the  vast  oriental  trade  that  will  ultimately 
seek  the  shortest,  easiest  and  cheapest  route  to  the  great 
markets  of  the  Mississippi  and  Atlantic  States,  as  well  as 
for  the  coast-wise  traffic  that  is  likely  to  assume  enormous 
proportions  with  the  opening  of  the  Trans-Isthmian  canal. 

The  topography  of  the  city  differs   in  a  great  measure 


141 

from  that  of  any  other  CaHfornia  city  or  town  of  im- 
portance. San  Francisco  is  essentially  a  city  of  hills.  In 
the  great  inland  valleys  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin, 
cities  and  towns  arise  from  the  open  plain  with  only  a  hil- 
lock here  and  there.  Los  Angeles  spreads  over  an  extent 
of  both  heights  and  flat  country.  To  the  west  and  north- 
west of  the  business  portion  of  the  city  there  is  an  abrupt 
rise  of  several  hundred  feet  to  a  series  of  commanding 
heights,  well  bedecked  with  homes,  many  of  which  were 
built  by  the  more  wealthy  American  residents  of  the  Cali- 
fornian-Mexican  town  of  fifteen  and  twenty  years  ago.  On 
the  extreme  northwestern  border  line  of  Los  Angeles 
proper,  overlooking  the  river  bed,  which  carries  a  stream 
varying  in  volume  southerly  and  westerly  to  the  ocean, 
stretch  the  hills  of  Elysian  Park,  destined  to  be  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  and  extensive  city  domains  in  America. 
Directly  across  this  bed  of  the  Los  Angeles  River  is  what 
is  known  as  East  Los  Angeles.  This  district  contains  many 
pretty  homes,  and  on  its  eastern  border  the  beautiful  East 
Side  Park.  Four  electric  railway  lines  lead  from  Los  An- 
geles proper  into  this  community,  over  the  Buena  Vista 
bridge,  Downey  avenue  viaduct,  and  East  Main  street 
bridge;  and  over  the  Macy  street  bridge  run  the  through 
Los  Angeles  and  Pasadena  electric  lines.  To  the  southeast 
of  E^st  Los  Angeles,  still  on  the  east  side  of  the  river  bed, 
with  a  mile  extent  of  open  country  intervening,  is  the  dis- 
trict known  as  Boyle  Heights.  First  street  is  the  main 
thoroughfare  leading  from  the  city,  bridging  the  river  near 
the  Santa  Fe  Depot,  to  this  community.  Boyle  Heights  has 
a  few  business  blocks  and  many  comfortable  homes.  Ever- 
green Cemetary,  the  Sisters'  Orphan  Asylum  and  Hollen- 
beck  Park  are  in  this  suburl)  of  our  city.  This  park  is 
reached  by  the  green  cars  which  cross  Spring  and  Main 
streets  on  Third  street. 


142 

Main  slrcct,  rmininK  iiortli  and  southeast,  is  the  great 
(hviding  line  of  the  city.  Eastward,  between  Main  street 
and  the  river,  extending  about  to  Seventh  street  on  the 
south,  lies  the  wholesale  district,  although  in  this  territory 
from  Fifth  street  there  are  many  modern  homes.  From 
Seventh  street,  cast  of  Main,  stretching  fan-shaped  toward 
the  southeast,  is  a  populous  residence  portion  of  the  city. 
Here  are  hundreds  of  picturesque  cottage  homes  and  many 
handsome  residences  of  more  pretension.  For  uniformity 
of  pleasing  architecture,  a  characteristic  of  Los  Angeles 
homes,  this  section  of  the  city  is  no  exception. 

In  order  to  view  the  city  west  of  the  dividing  line.  Main 
street,  the  stranger  will  be  compensated  by  leaving,  say 
Spring  and  Second  streets,  on  the  Second  street  car  line, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  is  directly  above  the  two  great  retail 
trade  streets.  Spring  and  Broadway,  on  the  heights  to  the 
westward.  This  northwestern  corner  is  a  series  of  hills 
and  vales.  Residences  surrounded  by  spacious  grounds 
are  here  numerous ;  but  above  all  the  commanding  feature 
in  this  district  is  the  oil  industry.  Hundreds  of  derricks, 
averaging  65  feet  in  height,  dot  the  landscape.  Beautiful 
lawns  and  finely  cultivated  shrubbery,  bowers  and  gardens 
in  residence  grounds,  have  given  way  to  the  drill  of  the  oil 
prospector,  and  for  several  miles  to  the  southwest  the  line 
of  development  work  is  clearly  discernable.  The  boarder- 
line  of  the  hill  district  is  properly  Seventh  street,  a  splendid 
avenue,  which  leads  to  Westlake  Park.  The  Second  street 
car  line,  on  which  we  will  assume  the  traveler  is  riding, 
reaches  its  destination  at  Seventh  and  Alvarado  streets  at 
the  park  just  mentioned. 

In  the  great  area  of  the  angles  formed  by  the  boundaries 
of  Main  on  the  east  and  Seventh  on  the  north,  lies  what 
is  probably  the  most  attractive  residence  portion  of  the  city. 


143 

The  Westlake  district  is  included  in  this — where  surround- 
ing the  lake  itself  are  many  magnificent  homes. 

In  addition  to  the  dividing  line  made  by  Main  street  is 
the  one  made  by  First  street.  As  these  two  lines  cross  each 
other  they  divide  the  city  naturally  into  four  definite  and 
distinct  quarters.  First  street  runs  east  and  west.  All 
north  of  First,  therefore,  are  so  signified  as  North  ]\Iain, 
North  Los  Angeles,  North  Vignes,  etc.,  while  those  south 
are  called  South  Main^  South  Spring,  etc.  Spring  street, 
running  almost  due  north  and  south,  divides  the  streets 
into  east  and  west.  It  is  well,  therefore,  in  hunting  for 
any  house  on  a  street  that  crosses  one  of  these  dividing 
lines  to  know  definitely  whether  it  be  north,  south,  east  or 
west. 

Los  Angeles  Parks. — Los  Angeles  is  in  itself  one  great 
park ;  the  soil,  situation  and  climatic  conditions  make  it 
so.  Seemingly  endless  varieties  of  flowers,  plants,  shrubs 
and  trees,  with  fountains  and  statuary,  covering  wide 
stretches  of  lawn,  may  frequently  be  found  in  private 
grounds,  and  many  of  the  citizens  of  Los  Angeles  might 
truly  claim  their  own  home  gardens  as  parks.  Within  a 
marvelously  short  space  of  time,  everything  in  plant  life, 
with  the  least  assistance  from  the  hand  of  man,  grows 
luxuriously  and  attains  a  degree  of  excellence  which  closely 
approaches  perfection.  Exotics  and  rare  plants  of  other 
climes,  but  indifferently  cultivated  in  this  land  of  the  olive 
and  the  vine,  are  scattered  in  the  utmost  profusion  and 
become  objects  too  frequently  met  with  to  be  appreciated 
by  the  spoiled  denizen  of  this  fair  Southland. 

But  there  are  many  beautiful  public  parks  within  the 
corporate  limits  of  Los  Angeles,  and  one  especially  large 
one  which  is  situated  a  short  distance  outside  the  city. 

Central  Park,  consisting  of  a  block  of  beautiful  lawns, 
shrubs,  trees  and  flowers,  is  in  the  very  heart  of  the  city. 


144 

hctwccMi  Fifth,  Sixtli,  Hill  and  Olive  streets.  At  the  Fifth 
and  Mill  street  entrance  one  is  faced  by  a  cannon  which 
was  presented  to  the  city  by  General  Shaftcr  as  a  trophy  of 
the  war  with  Spain.  There  is  also  a  fine  monument  erected 
in  honor  of  the  brave  soldiers  of  the  Seventh  California 
Infantry,  U.  S.  V. 
This  park  is  within  walking  distance  of  the  centre  of  the 


city.  It  is  estimated  that  nearly  300,000  people  visited  this 
park  in  1903. 

'I  he  Old  Plaza  which  is  a  very  pretty  breathing  spot,  is 
situated  at  Marchessault,  Main  and  Los  Angeles  streets, 
and  together  with  the  ^^lission  Church,  erected  in  1818, 
before  which  it  lies,  is  chiefly  interesting  historically.  Just 
the  other  side  of  the  Plaza  is  situated  Chinatown.  Truly 
they  seem  strange  neighbors. 

East  Lake  Park  contains  about  fifty-six  acres.  The  lake 
is  not   large,   covering  an   area   of  eight  acres,  but  being 


145 

flanked  on  two  of  its  sides  by  trees,  whose  branches  trail 
in  the  water,  a  bank  of  water  lilies  covering  one  end  and 
the  other  affording  a  view  of  a  pretty  bridge  and  waterfall 
just  behind  it,  makes  the  whole  a  thing  of  beauty.  The 
drives,  and  the  walks,  through  wide  avenues  of  trees,  or 
dividing  large  areas  of  lawn,  and  the  conservatorj^  which 
supplies  the  flora  for  all  the  other  parks  of  the  city,  together 
with  a  magnificent  view  of  the  surrounding  country  and 
city  from  the  knoll  at  the  extreme  eastern  end  of  the  park, 


The  Old  Plaza  Mission  Chapel. 

make  it  one  of  the  most  popular  parks  of  Los  Angeles. 
The  children's  playground  and  the  rather  large  collection 
of  birds  and  animals  are  also  quite  prominent  features. 
Music  every  Sunday  afternoon  is  another  strong  attraction. 
The  landscape  gardening  here  employed  and  the  general 
appearance  of  the  park  give  one  more  of  an  impression  of 
nature  itself  than  that  presented  elsewhere  throughout  the 
city.  This  park  is  situated  in  East  Los  Angeles,  between 
Alhambra  Road  and  East  Main  street,  and  is  reached 
direct  by  either  the  Downey  avenue  or  East  Main  street 
cars,  to  which  transfers  are  given  from  nearly  all  other  car 
lines  of  the  city. 

Echo  Park,  thirty-three  acres  in  extent,  consists  of  a  lake 
covering   about    eighteen   acres,   nestled    in   among   rolling 


146 


hills  and  cliffs  and  held  by  a  short  dam  which  seems 
rooted  there  by  numerous  tall  and  stately  eucalyptus  trees. 
It  is  fringed  with  the  most  entrancing  willows  and  beauti- 
ful plants  and  shrubs,  with  everywhere  the  palms,  true  wit- 
ness to  a  climate  seldom  equalled  and  never  excelled.  It  is 
easily  reached  by  the  Temple  street  car  line  or  the  foothill 
route  of  the  Santa  Monica  Railway,  as  it  is  situated  just 
north  of  Temple  street  on  Lake  Shore  avenue. 

HoUenbcck  Park,  the  playground  of  Boyle  Heights,  lies 
at  the  intersection  of  East  Fourth  street  and  Boyle  avenue, 
covers  an  area  of  twenty-six  acres  and  is  reached  by  either 
the  Traction  or  Boyle  Heights  cars.  It  is  long  and  narrow, 
and  within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  beautiful  Hollenbeck 
Home  for  Aged  People.  A  crescent-shaped  lake  glitters 
and  shimmers  in  the  everlasting  sunshine  of  this  Mecca 
of  the  tourist  and  tempest-tossed  Eastern  visitor.  Boats 
are  here  obtainable,  as  they  are  in  most  of  the  city  parks, 
a  curious  bicycle  boat  adding  its  charms  to  this  particular 
spot.  A  pretty  aviary  lends  its  feathered  inmates  to  the 
attractiveness  of  the  scene. 

Prospect  Park,  having  an  area  of  three  acres,  is  situated 
in    Boyle   Heights   on   Echandia   street,   on   the   line  of  the 


^V'v 


147 

Brooklyn  avenue  cars,  and  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  Sierra 
Madre  Mountains.  It  adds  to  its  attraction  of  trees,  flowers 
and  shrubs,  many  of  which  are  very  rare,  a  stone  fountain 
containing  myriads  of  goldfish. 


H.II.«  U.k  H.O,*  ~"  _       _ 

Sunset  Park  consists  of  a  twelve-acre  tract  of  land  on 
West  Seventh  street,  a  short  distance  beyond  West  Lake 
Park,  and  is  entirely  unimproved,  being  at  present  leased  by 
the  city  to  private  individuals  for  oil  purposes.  It  lies  in  a 
swale,  but  may  at  some  future  time  be  beautifully  arranged; 
nothing  can  be  done,  however,  until  after  the  expiration  of 
the  leases  which  are  now  held  upon  it. 

South  Park,  twenty  acres  in  extent,  and  situated  on 
Stanley  avenue,  near  Vernon,  may  be  reached  by  the  Ver- 
no  avenue  car,  together  with  a  walk  of  perhaps  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  to  the  west.  This  tract  of  land  was  purchased 
by  the  city  in  1898,  and  set  out  in  small  trees  and  shrubs 
of  many  varieties.  The  plan  of  the  park  has  already  been 
agreed  upon,  but  there  are  as  yet  no  paths  or  roads,  or 
flowers.     It  is  a  park  on  paper — a  mere  sketch. 

St.  James's  Park,  an  acre  in  extent,  is  situated  in  the 
midst  of  the  finest  residences  in  Los  Angeles,  one  of  its 
entrances  being  on  Adams  street,  a  short  distance  west  of 
Figueroa.  It  has  the  appearance  of  being  a  continuance 
of  the  surrounding  gardens,  which  lend  it  the  air  of  a 
])rivate  park.  The  University  car  takes  one  to  the  immedi- 
ate vicinity. 


148 

ll'csl  Lake  J'ark  is  the  most  accessible,  and  is  perhaps 
for  that  reason  the  best  patronized,  it  being  reached  by 
three  lines  of  street  cars;  one  starting  from  the  corner  of 
Spring  and  Second  streets ;  one  traversing  First  street 
westwardly  to  Broadway,  southerly  on  Broadway  to 
Seventh,  and  westwardly  on  Seventh ;  the  other  running 
westwardly  on  Third  to  Hill,  southerly  on  Hill  to  Eighth, 
and  thence  westwardly  to  the  park.  West  Lake  Park  is 
situated  at  the  intersection  of  Seventh  and  Alvarado  streets 
and  is  in  the  form  of  an  oblong  basin,  containing  about 
thirty-five  acres,  ten  acres  of  which  are  covered  by  the 
lake. 

The  drives  and  walks  are  well  kept  and  wind  around 
the  lake  through  rare  trees  and  shrubs ;  the  boating  is  most 
excellent,  and  a  small  collection  of  birds  and  animals  also 
offers  amusement.  A  beautiful  band-stand  has  been  erected, 
and  every  Sunday  afternoon  open-air  band  concerts  are 
provided,  adding  greatly  to  the  attraction  and  pleasure  of 
the  day. 

Elysian  Park,  situated  in  the  northwestern  part  of  the 
city,  covering  an  area  of  532  acres,  which  may  be 
reached  by  the  Daly  street  cars,  is  sure  of  a  high  place  in 


149 

t!ie  estimation  of  all  who  have  an  eye  for  the  grand  and 
beautiful  in  scenery.  From  it,  stretch  on  stretch  and  row 
on  row  of  lowland  and  mountain  range  lie  before  one;  in 
winter,  the  more  distant  ranges  are  capped  with  snow, 
while  beneath,  the  valleys  and  hills  are  clothed  in  green. 
At  even,  gazing  from  the  summit  of  its  lofty,  though  ac- 
cessible hills  upon  the  diversified  panorama,  the  reflected 
glow  of  setting  sun  and  earth  and  sky,  one  feels  in  truth 
carried  to  those  fields  whereof  it  bears  the  name.  It  is  not 
under  cultivation  to  the  extent  of  West  Lake  or  East  Lake, 
but  through  it  passes  some  of  the  water  supply  to  the  city, 
forming  an  artificial  creek  and  small  lake,  while  it  possesses 
an  exceptionally  fine  boulevard.  Entering  by  way  of  Buena 
"\''ista  street,  at  Fremont  Gate,  named  for  General  John  C. 
Fremont,  one  has  a  drive  or  walk  which  can  hardly  be 
excelled.  The  latter  part  of  the  drive,  however,  as  one 
emerges  from  the  park  at  Chavez  Ravine,  just  after  passing 
tl'C  nursery,  changes  in  character  and  is  certainly  not  grand 
in  point  of  scenery,  nor  picturesque  in  that  sense,  but  has 
an  attraction  due  to  one's  curiosity  "in  seeing  the  wheels 
go  round;"  in  other  words,  some  of  the  foundations  of  the 
city's  prosperity  are  here  visible.  Brick  kilns  and  oil 
wells  are  on  every  hand.  Toward  night,  the  brick  kilns 
are  not  unpicturesque  and  have  an  attraction  aside  from 
the  economic  factor. 

Griffith  Park  is  a  tract  of  3,015  acres  presented  to  the  city 
of  Los  Angeles  by  Griffith  J.  Griffith  in  1896.  It  is  the 
largest  park  ever  donated  to  any  city.  The  Los  Angeles 
River  courses  along  its  eastern  border  for  a  distance  of 
three  miles,  and  a  mountain  near  its  western  border,  named 
Griffith  Peak,  rises  to  a  height  of  nearly  1,700  feet,  afford- 
ing an  extensive  view  which  includes  three  mountain  ranges, 
a  considerable  section  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  about 
twenty  cities  and  smaller  towns.     On  its  southern  slope  is 


ISO 

a  icKioii  known  as  ihc  Cahucnga  Frostlcss  Belt,  upon  which 
il  is  contcmphitcd  lo  establish  a  government  botanical 
arboretum.  Several  large  ferny  and  wooded  canyons  open 
towards  the  cast,  furnishing  delightful  picnic  grounds.  A 
herd  of  lOO  North  American  elks  are  to  be  located  on  the 
northern  slopes  where  forage  and  tree  shelter  are  abundant. 

An  electric  railway  under  construction  will  convey  pas- 
sengers from  Los  Angeles  to  the  heart  of  the  park  at  tht 
head  of  Vermont  Canyor  -■*  which  point  Eddy's  electric  in- 
cline, (the  Eagle's  Fligl-  ,  ,800  feet  in  length,  will  transfer 
them  to  the  grand  outlo'  the  summit  of  Griffith  Peak, 

where  pavilions  and  an  .atory  are  located.     A  condi- 

tion of  Mr.  Griffith's  dc,  ion  was  that  railway  transporta- 
tion to  the  park  should  .../er  exceed  five  cents. 

Chinatozvn  — Near  th-  Plaza  is  Chinatown,  where  some 
five  hundred  Chinese  are  huddled  together.  One  should 
hear  the  Chinese  band  play  on  the  veranda,  as  it  often  does 
about  noon-time,  and  also  visit  the  Chinese  theatre  at  night. 
When  seeing  Chinatown,  especially  at  night,  it  is  advisable 
to  go  in  the  company  of  some  friend  who  understands  the 
heathen's  ways,  or  with  a  policeman.  For,  to  a  stranger, 
John  is  non-committal.  You  may  come  and  you  may  go, 
but  John  will  not  show  you  the  way,  nor  understand  you 
nor  talk  to  you.  You  would  be  likely  to  come  away  without 
seeing  nearly  all  you  went  to  see. 

Its  joss  houses,  strange  stores,  restaurants,  where  one 
knows  not  what  one  eats,  and  various  tales  of  grasshoppers, 
snails,  reptiles  and  other  dainties  are  whispered  around, 
its  gambling  hells  and  opium  dens — all  the  wickedness  of 
its  old  civilization,  if  it  may  be  so  called,  combined  with 
the  new.  There  is  a  bright  side  to  the  picture,  for  the 
Chinaman  is  frugal  and  industrious,  and,  though  many  may 
smoke  opium,  a  drunken  Chinaman  is  almost  unknown — it 
being  against  his  religiou  to  indulge  in  strong  drink.     The 


151 

gaudy  colorings  of  their  surroundings,  quaint  costumes  and 
odd,  little  women  who  stump  around  in  the  stiffest  of  shoes, 
with  their  moon-faced,  sober-looking  babies  and  children, 
attract  the  curiosity,  at  least,  of  all  women.  When  entering 
the  joss  houses  all  are  expected  to  buy  little  tapers,  which 
are  burned  before  their  gods,  each  Chinaman,  as  he  enters, 
sticking  a  taper  in  a  receptacle  already  holding  those  still 
burning  from  previous  devotees.  Chinamen  apparently  re- 
quire less  air  than  other  mortals,  for  a  half  dozen  will 
sleep  crowded  together,  one  bunk  over  another,  like  shelves, 
in  a  small  room  hardly  fit  for  one,  and  frequently  several 
stories  underground.  The  small  windows  are  often  grated, 
for  they  seem  to  stand  in  dread  of  each  other.  One  can 
enter  and  see  them  smoking  the  famous  opium  pipe.  China- 
town has  a  theatre,  which  is  remarkable  for  its  primitive 


A  Chinese  Joss. 


A  Chinese  Actor. 


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wr-'A 


V-'^» 


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A  House   in  Chinatown. 


153 

character.  The  plays  are  continuous,  and  the  audience 
shifting.  There  are  no  actresses,  as  the  men  take  the  parts 
of  both  sexes.  Their  music,  which  seems  incessant,  is 
more  in  the  nature  of  our  cymbals,  drum,  fife  and  bagpipe 
than  other  of  our  instruments,  and  they  certainly  succeed 
in  half  deafening  unaccustomed  ears.  Their  voices  are 
generally  in  a  high  key,  seemingly  destitute  of  bassos  and 
contraltos.  Of  scenery,  there  may  be  said  to  be  none,  as 
surroundings  are  merely  indicated,  the  balance  being  left 
entirely  to  the  imagination.  Their  costumes,  however,  are 
often  gorgeous  in  the  extreme,  consisting  of  beautiful  silks 
and  much  gold  embroidery.  To  see  the  Chinese  costumes 
to  the  very  best  advantage,  one  should  witness  a  parade 
during  Fiesta  or  other  gala  occasion.  Then,  too,  they  dis- 
play their  immense  dragon,  which  is  about  a  block  in  length. 
It  is  carried  by  numerous  silk-gowned  Chinamen,  who  con- 
stantly move  from  side  to  side  in  rhythmic  involutions  of 
the  dragon.  It  is  itself  made  of  the  most  costly  silks  and 
gold  embroideries  and  is  a  feature  of  Chinese  life,  forming 
a  part  of  their  religion.  A  Chinaman  precedes  the  serpent, 
dancing  before  the  monster,  while  those  carrying  the  head 
dart  in  all  directions  with  it. 

The  markets  of  Chinatown  present  a  strange  appearance. 
There  appears  to  be  no  distinction  between  filth  and  clean- 
liness. Pork  in  all  varieties  and  styles  seems  to  be  the 
principal  meat  diet ;  fish  are  also  used  to  a  considerable 
extent,  although  rice  is  with  them  the  very  "stafif  of  life." 
Many  live  on  it  entirely,  with  the  addition  of  a  small  amount 
of  fat  pork.    Tea  is  their  great  drink. 

County  Court  House. — This  fine  modern  structure  was 
erected  in  1893  of  red  sandstone  from  Flagstaff,  Arizona. 
It  stands  on  the  corner  of  Temple  and  New  High  streets, 
and  cost  in  the  neighborhood  of  one  million  dollars. 

County  Officials. — William  H.  Savage,  State  Senator,  34th 


154 

District;  I'cnjaniin  W.  Ilalni,  State  Senator,  36tli  District; 
I''.  M.  Smitli,  State  Senator,  37tli  District;  Cornelius  VV. 
rcndlcton,  State  Senator,  38th  District;  John  A.  Goodrich, 
Assemblyman,  67th  District;  W.  A.  Johnstone,  Assembly- 
man, 68th  District;  Edgar  W.  Camp,  Assemblyman,  69th 
District;  VV.  II.  Kelso,  Assemblyman,  70th  District;  Philip 
A.  Stanton,  Assemblyman,  71st  District;  H.  S.  G.  McCartney, 
Assemblyman,  72d  District;  J.  P.  Transue,  Assemblyman, 
73d  District;  Frederick  W.  Houser,  Assemblyman,  74th 
District ;  Henry  E.  Carter,  Assemblyman,  75th  District ; 
Will  A.  White,  Sheriff;  Charles  G.  Keyes,  County  Clerk; 
H.  G.  Dow,  Auditor;  Calvin  Hartwell,  Recorder;  William 
O.  Welch,  Tax  Collector;  J.  D.  Fredericks,  District  At- 
torney ;  Ben  E.  Ward,  Assessor ;  Mark  G.  Jones,  Treasurer ; 
Mark  Keppei,  Superintendent  of  Schools ;  D.  C.  McGarvin, 
Public  Administrator;  J.  H.  Trout,  Coroner;  Leo  V.  Young- 
worth,  Surveyor. 

Supervisors. — O.  W.  Longden,  First  District;  George 
Alexander,  Second  District;  Al.  J.  Graham,  Third  District; 
P.  J.  Wilson,  Fourth  District;  C.  E.  Patterson,  Fifth  Dis- 
trict. 

Justices  of  tlie  Peace  and  Constables  of  Los  Angeles 
County. — Antelope  Township,  Olcott  S.  Bulkley,  Justice, 
Little  Rock ;  Oliver  Witchell,  Constable,  Lancaster. 

Azusa  Township,  G.  E.  Glover,  Justice,  Azusa;  Barney 
S.  Byron,  Azusa. 

Ballona  Township,  Rezin  W.  Davis,  Justice,  Gardena ; 
W.  F.  Pope,  Constable,  University  Station. 

Burbank  Township,  Gano  Henry,  Justice,  Burbank ; 
Charles  Catlin,  Constable,  Glendale. 

Cahuenga  Township,  F.  M.  Chaffee,  Justice,  Hollywood ; 
M.  L.  Reyes,  Constable,  Hollywood. 

Chatsworth  Township,  Frank  Hawley,  Justice,  Chats- 
worth  ;  Frederick  A.  Graves,  Constable,  Chatsworth. 


155 

Calabasas  Township,  E.  P.  Beckwith,  Justice,  Calabasas; 
M.  D.  Nash,  Constable,  Calabasas. 

Catalina  Township,  William  Allen,  Justice,  Avalon;  Vin- 
cent Moricich,  Constable,  Avalon. 

Compton  Township,  J.  L.  Morden,  Justice,  Compton ; 
Charles  G.  Davidson,  Constable,  Compton. 

Downey  Township,  Lewis  P.  Phillips,  Justice,  Downey; 
F.  B.  Glasgow,  Constable,  Downey. 

El  Monte  Township,  J.  B.  Holloway,  Justice;  Alonrovia; 
Robert  Hicks,  Constable,  Duarte. 

Fairmont  Township,  G.  O.  Hughes,  Justice,  Manzana ; 
Herbert  N.  Smith,  Constable,  Del  Sur. 

Long  Beach  Township,  W.  S.  Brayton,  Justice,  Long 
Beach;  R.  M.  Lynn,  Constable,  Long  Beach. 

Los  Angeles  Township,  William  Young,  Justice;  J.  H. 
De  La  Monte,  Constable. 

Los  Nietos  Township,  L.  M.  Baldwin,  Justice,  Whittier; 
J.  W.  Davis,  Constable,  Los  Nietos. 

Norwalk  Township,  E.  B.  Truitt,  Justice;  John  Dettle, 
Constable. 

Pasadena  Township,  Roscoe  P.  Congdon,  Justice,  Pasa- 
dena ;  H.  F.  Newell,  Constable,  Pasadena. 

Pasadena  Township,  H.  H.  Klamroth,  Justice,  Pasadena; 
S.  L.  Wallis,  Constable,  Pasadena. 

Redondo  Township,  Welcome  Smith,  Justice,  Redondo ; 
H.  Usrey,  Constable,  Redondo. 

Rowland  Township,  Charles  F.  Parker,  Justice,  Covina ; 
George  Van  Vliet,  Constable,  Covina. 

San  Gabriel  Township,  W.  M.  Northrup,  Justice,  San 
Gabriel ;  Edmund  W.  Stanton,  Constable,  Alhambra. 

San  Jose  Township,  E.  Barnes,  Justice,  Pomona ;  F.  O. 
Slanker,  Constable,  Pomona. 

Santa  Monica  Township,  A.  L.  Jenness,  Justice,  Santa 
Monica ;  H.  L  Pritchard,  Constable,  Santa  Monica. 


156 

San  Antonio  Townsliij),  J.  JIuward  Russell,  Justice, 
Florence ;  OIc  A.  Nelson,  Constable,  Green  Meadows. 

San  Fernando  Township,  J.  H.  Barclay,  Justice,  Fer- 
nando ;  F.  E.  Strader,  Constable,  San  Fernando. 

Solcdad  Township,  J.  F.  Powell,  Justice,  Lang;  \V.  E. 
Pardee,  Constable,  Lang. 

South  Pasadena  Township,  George  Gleason,  Justice,  South 
Pasadena ;  M.  B.  Reid,  Constable,  South  Pasadena. 

Wilmington  Township,  H.  C.  Downing,  Justice,  San 
Pedro;  Carl  T.  Carlson,  Constable,  San  Pedro. 

Los  Angeles  City,  Joseph  Chambers  and  H.  C.  Austin, 
Justices,  Los  Angeles. 

County  Board  of  Horticultural  Commissioners. — O.  R.  W. 
Robinson,  Chairman;  Stephen  Strong;  J.  W.  Jeffries,  Sec- 
retary. 

County-Board  of  Education. — Mrs.  Jennie  Coleman,  Fred 
W.  Shoemaker,  F.  A.  Bonelle,  George  E.  Larkey,  Mark 
Keppel,  Secretary. 

Public  Administrator. — D.  C.  McGarvin. 

BONDED  INDEBTEDNESS  OF  LOS  ANGELES  COUNTY,  JUNE  30,  I9O2. 
1884. 

July  I....  Bonds  of  1884.  .6  per  ct..  .Semi-Annually.  .1904 
1885.  $11,500.00 

July  I.  ..  .Bonds  of  1885.  .4; 2  per  ct..  .Semi-.\nnually.  .1905 
1887.  $100,000.00 

July  I.. ..Bonds  of  1887.  .4  J/'  per  ct..  .Semi-.\nnual.  .1907 
1890.  $69,000.00 

July   I.. ..Bonds  of  1890.  .5  per  ct..  .Semi-Annually. .  1910 

$153,000.00 


Total  Bonded  Indebtedness,  County  Bonds. ..  .$333,500.00 


157 

STATEMENT  OF  PROPERTY  BELONGING  TO   LOS   ANGELES   COUNTY, 
JUNE  30,    1902. 

New  Court  House $906,272.21 

New  Court  House  Furniture   132,247.45 

County  Jail    86,686.18 

County   Hospital    87,827.10 

County  Farm 95,389.44 

Lots  and  Land   (Temple  street  property)    16,346.07 

Bridges    162,492.72 

Lands,  Rights  of  Way,  Roads  20,084.83 

Road   Implements    17,443.96 

Common  School  Property,  including  Furniture.  1,714,030.16 

Common   School  Libraries    49,510.00 

Law  Library  Books,  etc 30,927.77 

Maps,   etc 39,ogi.i2 

Other   Personal   Property   9,921.81 

Sprinkling  System   6,260.33 

Temple   Street  Jail    2,100.00 

Total  Valuation    $3,376,640.15 


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TJic  Cily  Hall,  on  Broadway,  near  Second,  is  another 
public  building  of  which  the  Angelenos  are  proud.  It 
cost  about  $200,000.     In  this  building"  are  the 

Public  Library  and  Free  Reading  Room. — Miss  M.  L. 
Jones,  Librarian.  The  library  occupies  rooms -on  the  third 
Hoor  of  the  city  hall    (South  Broadwaj',  between   Second 


and  Third  streets),  reached  by  an  elevator  running  from 
9  a.  m.  to  9:30  p.  m.  The  library  contains  81,305  volumes. 
The  circulation  for  the  past  year  was  806,556.  The  library 
is  open  from  9  a.  m.  to  9  130  p.  m.  Reading  rooms,  Sundays 
from  I  p.  m.  to  9  p.  m.     Telephone  Main  iioo. 

Branch  Libraries.- — Macy  street.  Open  from  6  to  9  p.  m., 
except  Sundays. 

Central  avenue.  2507  Central  avenue,  open  from»  6:30 
p.  m.  to  9  p.  m.,  except  Sundays. 

Vernon  avenue.  Open  from  6:30  to  9:30  p.  m.,  except 
Sundays. 


:6o 

Garvaiiza.     Eagle  Rock  and  64tli  streets. 

Library  Delivery  Stations. — Collections  lo  a.  m.,  deliver- 
ies 4  p.  m.,  Monday,  Wednesday  and  Saturday. 

1952  E.  First  street,  Boyle  Heights  Drug  Store. 

Hoover  and  Twenty-fourth  streets,  C.  R.  Smead. 

Daly  street  and  Pasadena  avenue,  W.  A.  Harmon. 

2681  W.  Pico  street,  H.  E.  Howard. 

2100  W.  Seventh  street,  Westlake  Pharmacy. 

Collections  2  p.  m.,  deliveries  5  p.  m.,  daily. 

Y.  M.  C.  A.  Rooms,  Third  and  Hill  streets. 

City  Officials. — A  roster  of  the  city  officials  for  the  years 
1903-1904  follows:  Mayor,  Hon.  M.  P.  Snyder,  Tel.  Main 
771;  Mayor's  Clerk,  Foster  C.  Wright;  City  Clerk,  H.  J. 
Lelande,  Tel.  Main  373 ;  Auditor,  E.  E.  Unger,  Tel.  Main 
1 190;  Assessor,  F.  W.  Wismer,  Tel.  Main  1073;  Attorney, 
W.  B.  Matthews,  Tel.  Main  689;  Treasurer,  W.  H.  Work- 
man, Tel.  Main  1083 ;  Tax  and  License  Collector,  E.  E. 
Johnson,  Tel.  Main  1059;  Engineer,  H.  F.  Stafford,  Tel. 
Main  851;  Street  Superintendent,  E.  R.  Werdin ;  Water 
Overseer,  Geo.  D.  Pessell ;  Superintendent  of  Buildings, 
Julius  Krause;  Board  of  Engineers,  Frank  Rademacher, 
J.  J.  Malone,  Jack  Connell ;  City  Electrician,  Roland  H. 
Manalian,  Tel.  Main  80;  Chief  of  Police,  Chas.  Elton,  Tel. 
Main  30;  Chief  of  Fire  Department,  Thos.  Strohm,  Tel. 
Private  Exchange.  21  ;  Police  Surgeon,  Dr.  A.  M.  Smith, 
Tel.  Main  30;  Superintendent  of  Parks,  John  G.  Morley, 
Tel.  Main  771 ;  Health  Officer,  Dr.  L.  M.  Powers;  Inspector 
Weights  and  Measures,  J.  G.  Estudillo ;  Boiler  Inspector, 
J.  B.  Holloway;  Oil  Inspector,  Chas.  Blackmer;  Meat  In- 
spector, Fred  T.  Hughes ;  Milk  Inspector,  George  L.  Pierce ; 
Plumbing  Inspector,  A.  A.  Bennett. 

City  Council. — Meetings  Monday,  lo  a.  m..  City  Hall. 
William  M.  Bowen,  President;  H.  J.  Lelande,  City  Clerk, 
cx-officio  Clerk  of  Council ;  Owen  Mc.Meer,  First  Ward ; 


i6i 

C.  F.  Skilling,  Second  Ward;  O.  E.  Farrish,  Third  Ward; 
Theo.  Summerland,  Fourth  Ward ;  W.  M.  Bowen,  Fifth 
Ward ;  J.  P.  Davenport,  Sixth  Ward ;  Ed.  Kern,  Seventh 
Ward ;  R.  A.  Todd,  Eighth  Ward ;  F.  U.  Nofziger,  Ninth 
Ward.  _    ' 

Los  Angeles  Police  Department. — Board  of  Police  Com- 
missioners :  The  Mayor,  Hon.  M.  P.  Snyder,  J.  A.  Keeney, 
S.  R.  Thorpe,  George  W.  Walker,  Willard  H.  Stimson. 
Meets  every  Tuesday  at  lo  a.  m.  in  the  Mayor's  office. 
Chief  of  Police,  Charles  Elton,  appointed  by  Cimmissioners. 
Secretary  to  Chici,  C.  C.  Chapman;  Captain  of  Police,  S. 
P.  Hensley;  Police  Surgeaon,  Dr.  A.  M.  Smith;  Police 
Matron,  Mrs.  L.  V.  GraJ^  The  salaries  of  Police  Depart- 
ment are  as  follows,  except  the  Chief,  who  is  a  city  official : 
Captains,  $150  per  month;  lieutenants,  $125  per  month;  de- 
tectives, $125  per  month;  sergeants,  $115  per  month;  sec- 
retary of  Police  Department,  $115  per  month;  secretary  to 
the  chief  of  police,  $115  per  month ;  bailiffs,  $115  per  month ; 
police  matron,  $75  per  month ;  assistant  matron,  $65  per 
month ;  special  policemen,  $75  per  month  for  the  time  actu- 
ally employed ;  each  patrolman,  $75  per  month  for  first 
year;  $83,331-3  per  month  for  second  year;  $91,662-3  per 
month  during  third  year,  and  $100  per  month  thereafter. 
Captain  and  chain  gang,  $100  per  month ;  mounted  guard 
of  chain  gang,  $75  per  month ;  foot  guard  of  chain  gang, 
$60  per  month. 

Los  Angeles  Fire  Department. — This  is  located  at  217 
South  Hill  street.  The  paid  Fire  Department  of  the  city  of 
Los  Angeles  was  organized  February  i,  1886.  It  now  con- 
sists of  one  hundred  and  twenty  firemen,  eleven  steam  fire 
engines  in  service,  two  in  reserve,  one  Hayes  truck,  one 
Babcock  aerial  truck,  two  city  trucks,  one  four-wheel  hose 
carriage,  three  two-wheel  hose  carts,  two  chemical  engines. 
In  connection  with  the  department  is  a  fire  alarm  telegraph 


1 62 

with  ISO  miles  of  wire,  210  automatic  boxes.  There  are  676 
hydrants  in  use.  Board  of  Fire  Commissioners :  The 
Mayor,  Hon.  M.  P.  Snyder,  Major  J.  W.  F.  Diss,  Jacob 
Kurtz,  J.  P.  Yates,  A.  P.  Thompson.  Meetings  held  every 
Monday  at  10  a.  m.  in  Mayor's  office.  Chief  Engineer, 
Thos.  Strohm,  office  217  South  Hill,  8  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m. 
Clerk  of  Department,  Robert  W.  Burns;  Electrician,  R.  H. 
Manahan,  Room  5,  City  Hall.  Salaries  of  the  Fire  Depart- 
ment: The  Chief  is  a  city  official;  assistant  chief,  $175 
per  month;  secretary  to  the  department,  $115  per  month; 
engineer  of  first  class,  $120  per  month ;  engineers  of  second 
class,  $110  per  month;  relief  engineers,  $100  per  month: 
captains  of  first  class,  $125  per  month ;  captains  of  second 
class,  $115  per  month;  lieutenants,  $90  per  month;  drivers 
of  first  class,  $85  per  month ;  drivers  of  second  class.  $80 
per  month ;  drivers  of  third  class,  $75  per  month ;  tiller- 
men,  $80  per  month ;  hosemen  and  laddermen,  $60  per 
month  first  year;  $70  per  month  second  year;  $80  per  month 
during  third  and  subsequent  term  of  service.  Drivers  of 
supply  wagons,  $60  per  month  first  year,  $65  second,  $70  per 
month  during  third  and  subsequent  term  of  service. 

Park  Commissioners. — Meetings  second  and  fourth 
Thursdays,  10  a.  m..  Mayor's  office.  Chairman.  Mayor  !M. 
P.  Snyder;  Frank  B.  Harbert,  James  Russell,  B.  R.  Jones, 
Dr.  D.  W.  Stewart. 

Board  of  Health. — Meetings  first  Monday.  4  p.  m.  Chair- 
man, Mayor  T^T.  P.  Snyder;  Dr.  S.  S.  Salisbury.  Dr.  W.  W. 
Beckett.  Dr.  Geo.  W.  Campbell,  Dr.  W.  W.  Hitchcock. 

Trustees  of  Public  Library. — Meetings  Tuesdays,  3 :30 
p.  m..  at  Public  Library  rooms  in  City  Hall.  J.  Ross  Clark. 
President:  T.  B.  Dockweiler.  Dr.  D.  W.  Edelman.  \.  W. 
Fisher,  Dr.  J.  W.  Trueworthy. 

City  Board  of  Education. — President,  Dr.  H.  Bert  Ellis: 
N.  S.  Averill,  Secretary;  Prof.  J.  A.  Foshay,  Superintend- 


i63 

ent;  J.  B.  Millard,  Deputy  Superintendent;  W.  W.  Tritt, 
Assistant  Superintendent.  Regular  meetings  of  the  board 
are  held  at  the  general  office,  6io  Laughlin  Building,  315 
S.  Broadway,  on  the  second  and  fourth  Wednesdays  of  each 
calendar  month  at  7:30  p.  m. 

Teachers'  Committee  meets  i  :30  p.  m.  in  Superintendent's 
office  on  Saturday  preceding  regular  meetings  of  the  board. 

Finance  Committee  meets  in  Secretary's  office  at  3  p.  m., 
on  Saturdays  preceding  regular  meetings  of  the  board.  All 
claims  not  filed  on  Friday  preceding  said  Saturday  will  be 
laid  over  until  next  meeting. 

Office  hours  for  school  business :  J.  A.  Foshay,  Super- 
intendent, 612  Laughlin  Building— School  days,  8:00  to 
9 :30  and  4  to  5 ;  Saturdays,  9  to  12. 

J.  B.  Millard.  Deputy  Superintendent,  618  Laughlin 
Building — School  days,  3:30  to  5:00;  Saturdays,  1:30  to 
4:00. 

W.  W.  Tritt.  Assistant  Superintendent — -School  days, 
3:30  to  5:30;  Saturdays,  9  to  12. 

Members. — First  Ward,  Roger  S.  Page;  Second  Ward, 
Percy  V.  Hammon ;  Third  Ward,  S.  A.  Bulfinch ;  Fourth 
Ward,  H.  Bert  Ellis;  Fifth  Ward.  Chas.  Monroe;  Sixth 
Ward,  W.  T.  Goodhue ;  Seventh  Ward,  Catesby  C.  Thom ; 
Eighth  Ward,  W.  J.  Horgan;  Ninth  Ward.  E.  M.  Jessup. 

City  Pound. — Corner  Porter  and  Santa  Fe.  'Phone  939. 
Take  Mateo  Street  Line  from  First  and  Santa  Fe  avenue. 

CHy  Police  Court. — 326  West  First  street. 

Los  Angeles  Orphan  Asylums. — As  one  gazes  across  the 
river  from  the  depots,  or  hotels,  or  business  streets,  or  the 
heights  back  of  them,  the  most  conspicuous  object  that 
meets  his  eye  is  the  large  four-story  brick  building  of  the 
Los  Angeles  Orphan  Asylum.  It  is  a  fine  building,  and  of 
a  size  that  will  surprise  the  visitor  who  takes  the  trouble 
of  crossing  to  the  corner  of  Boyle  and  Stephenson  avenues 


1 64 

to  sec  it.  As  you  look  from  the  city  you  sec  the  rear  of  the 
building.  It  stands  in  a  field  of  some  nine  or  ten  acres,  not 
yet  improved  to  any  extent.  The  building  was  erected  in 
i8gi-2  at  a  cost  of  $150,000  by  Architects  Curlett  &  Eisen, 
and  for  light,  for  roomy  freedom,  for  thorough  ventilation 
and  all  that  makes  such  a  place  desirable,  it  is  unsurpassed. 
It  is  supported  in  part  by  the  State  and  by  the  general 
charities  of  the  Catholic  Church  and  the  income  from  day 
pupils  or  boarders. 
Other  asylums  are: 

Orphans  Asylums. — Los  Angeles  Orphan  Home,  corner 
of  Yale  and  Alpine  streets. 

Home  of  the  Guardian  Angel,  for  little  children — 2>2iZ  S. 
Figueroa,  Telephone  James  1176. 

California  Children's  Home  Society — 25th  and  Griffith 
avenue. 

Hospitals. — Many  good  public  and  private  hospitals  are 
to  be  found  in  Los  Angeles  and  vicinity,  and  their  general 
excellence  is  attested  by  many  grateful  patients,  including 
the  most  reliable  and  trustworthy  of  her  citizens. 

Bellevue  Sanitarium,  727  Bellevue  avenue. 

California  Hospital,  1414  South  Hope  street. 

Christian  Hospital,  1301  South  Hope  street. 

French  Benevolent  Society  Hospital,  913  Castelar  street. 

Good  Samaritan  Hospital,  924  West  Seventh  street. 

Los  Angeles  County  Hospital,  1106  Mission  road. 

Los  Angeles  Eye  and  Ear  Hospital,  347  Grand  avenue. 

Los  Angeles  Hospital,  2515  Hoover  street. 

Los  Angeles  Infirmary  (Sisters'  Hospital),  North  Beau- 
dry  avenue,  west  end  Alpine. 

Pacific  Hospital,  13 19  South  Grand  avenue. 

St.  Agnes  Hospital,  1022  South  Flower  street. 

Receiving  Hospital,  South  Side  of  First  street,  between 
Broadway  and  Hill  streets. 


i65 

County  Hospital. — The  county  hospital  is  situated  in  East 
Los  Angeles,  on  Mission  road,  at  the  intersection  of  Work- 
man street.  It  may  be  reached  by  the  Pasadena  electric 
cars,  although  the  East  Main  street  cars  pass  within  about 
three  blocks  to  the  north  of  the  main  entrance.  Many 
trained  nurses  are  employed,  and  three  graduates  from  the 
medical  college  are  accepted  each  year  as  internes.  The 
buildings  and  premises  cover  several  acres,  and  the  situa- 
tion and  general  arrangement  are  good. 

Hollenbeck  Home. — Situated  on  Boyle  avenue,  in  Boyle 
Heights,  occupying  a  most  picturesque  site,  overlooking 
beautiful  Hollenbeck  Park,  is  a  good  Home  for  Aged 
People.  It  is  called  Hollenbeck  Home,  and  represents 
one  of  the  efforts  of  a  most  generous  woman  to  make  happy 
and  bright  the  declining  years  of  some  of  her  fellow  crea- 
tures. The  Home  was  built,  is  conducted,  and  all  expenses 
paid  through  the  instrumentality  of  Mrs.  E.  Hollenbeck. 
The  building  is  large  and  set  in  spacious  grounds,  most 
park-like  in  appearance.  Everything  shows  the  utmost 
care  and  solicitude  on  the  part  of  Mrs.  Hollenbeck  that 
the  inmates  should  be  happy  and  enjoy  life  to  the  fullest 
possible  extent.  She  has  succeeded  in  her  most  laudable 
ambition,  and  to  her  is  due  all  praise. 

Receiving  Hospital. — Is  situated  on  the  south  side  of 
First  street,  between  Broadway  and  Hill  streets. 

Churches  — There  are  many  and  various  places  of  worship 
in  Los  Angeles  and  every  sect  and  denomination  has  its 
followers  and  is  apparently  well  represented.  Those  most 
prominent,  with  their  respective  locations,  are  as  follows : 

Cathedral  of  St.  Vihiana. — This  Catholic  cathedral  was 
established  in  1876.  It  is  a  fine  old  red  brick  structure  on 
Main,  below  Second.  Mass  is  said  at  6,  7 :30  and  8 :30 
o'clock.     Solemn  pontifical  mass  is  celebrated  at  10:30. 

First  M.  E.  Church  —The  First  M.  E.  Church,  situated 


i66 

on  the  northeast  corner  of  Sixth  and  Hill  streets,  is  the 
largest  structure  of  its  kind  in  the  city,  and  probably  no 
church  in  Southern  California  has  as  large  a  seating  ca- 
pacity or  is  so  well  attended.  The  building  is  composed 
principally  of  pressed  brick,  and  its  architectural  appearance 
is  exceedingly  good. 

Advent  Churches. — Advent  Christian — 140  Avenue  22. 

Seventh  Day  Adventist — 141  Carr  street. 

Baptist  Churches  — American  Baptist — Orchard  avenue, 
S.  W.  corner  W.  29th. 

Berean  Baptist — 812  Stephenson  avenue. 

Bethel  Baptist — E.  25th,  S.  E.  corner  of  Central  avenue. 

Central — Corner  W.  Pico  and  S.  Flower  street. 

East  Los  Angeles — Corner  S.  Workman  and  Manitou 
avenue. 

First — 727  S.  Flower  street. 

First   (German) — Corner  E.  8th  and  Maple  avenue. 

First  (Swedish) — 717  W.  8th  street. 

Memorial — S.  Grand  avenue,  between  W.  22d  and  W.  23d 
streets. 

Mount  Zion  (colored) — 719  Stevenson  avenue. 

New  Hope — 427  San  Pedro  street. 

Occidental  Heights — Hicks,  corner  1st  street. 

Orchard  Avenue — Orchard  avenue,  corner  29th  street. 

Second  (colored) — 740  Maple  avenue. 

St.  Pauls  (colored) — 400  E.  6th  street. 

Tabernacle  (colored) — 952  Hemlock  street. 

Catholic  Churches — Roman. — Cathedral  of  St.  Vibiana — 
E.  s.  S.  Main,  between  E.  2d  and  E.  3d  streets. 

Church  of  Oour  Lady  of  the  Angels — 535  N.  Main  street. 

Church  of  the  Sacred  Heart — N.  E.  corner  Sichel  and 
Baldwin  streets. 

St.  Joseph's — 1219  Santee  street. 

St.  Mary's — Corner  4th  and  Chicago  streets. 


i67 

St.  Vincent's — Corner  Grand  avenue  and  Washington 
street. 

Cliristian  Churches — Disciples  of  Clirist. — Broadway — 221 
N.  Broadway. 

Central — 3306  S.  Main  street. 

East  Eighth  Street — 1321  E.  Eighth  street. 

East  Los  Angeles — 151  N.  Workman  street. 

First — Corner  Hope  and  nth  streets. 

Christian  Scientist  Churches. — First  Church  of  Christ 
(Scientist) — Masonic  Temple,  431  S.  Hill  street. 

Second  Church  of  Christ  (Scientist) — 1338  S.  Figueroa. 

Congregational  Churches. — Bethelem  (Institutional) — 502 
Vignes  street. 

Central  Avenue — 1043  E.  2Sth  street. 

East  Los  Angeles — 140  N.  Daly  street. 

First — Corner  Hill  and  6th  streets. 

Olivet — Washington  and  Magnolia  avenue. 

Park — 1248  Temple  street. 

Pico  Heights — 1136  El  Molino  street. 

Pilgrim — 251  E.  Sth  street. 

Plymouth — 654  W.  21st  street. 

Swedish — 514  W.  Sth  street. 

Third — 1201  N.  Main  street. 

Vernon — 1276  E.  Vernon  avenue. 

West  End — Corner  Temple  and  Burtz. 

Episcopal  Churches. — Christ  Church — Corner  Pico  and 
Flower  streets. 

Church  of  the  Ascension — N.  St.  Louis,  near  Brooklyn. 

Church  of  the  Epiphany — 146  N.  Sichel  street. 

Church  of  the  Neighborhood — 9th  and  Wilson  streets. 

St.  Athanasins  Mission — Court  Circle,  head  of  Court. 

St.  Barnabas — Corner  Vernon  and  Central  avenue. 

St.  John's — 514  W.  Adams  street. 

St.  Paul's  Pro-Cathedral — 525  S.  Olive  street. 


i68 

Holiness  Cliurclics — East  Los  Angeles  Holiness — 1013 
Altura  street. 

Los  Angeles  Holiness — 2124  E.  9lh  street. 

Jewish  Synagogues. — Congregation  B'nai  B'rith — Wor- 
ships in  Synagogue,  corner  9th  and  Hope  streets. 

Congregation  Beth  Israel — Worships  at  131 J/2  S.  Spring. 

Lutheran  Churches. — First  English — 800  S.  Flower. 

First  German — 755  S.  Flower. 

Swedish — 425  W.  Tenth. 

Methodist  Churches. — African  Methodist  Episcopal — 
Zion,  122  San  Pedro  street. 

Evangelical  Association  (German  Methodist) — 718  S. 
Olive  street. 

Stevens  African  Methodist  Episcopal — 312  Azusa  street. 

Swedish  jMcthodist — 717  S.  Los  Angeles  street. 

Methodist  Episcopal  Churches. — Asbury — 146  N.  Work- 
man street. 

Boyle  Heights — 200  N.  St.  Louis  street. 

Centennial — Washington  and  Hoover  streets. 

Central — 131  W.  15th  street. 

Central  Avenue — Corner  Central  and  Vernon  avenues. 

Epworth — Bellevue  avenue  and  Centennial. 

First  German — Olive,  near  5th  street. 

First — Hill  and  6th  streets. 

Garvanza — Avenue  66  and  Pasadena  avenue. 

Grace — 235  Hewitt  street. 

Harmony — Figueroa  and  La  Joya  streets. 

Haven — 929  E.  27th  street. 

Nazarenc — Santee  and  8th  streets. 

Newman — Towne  avenue,  near  7th  street. 

Norwegian  and  Danish — Denver  avenue,  corner  loth 
street. 

Pico  Heights — Fedora  and  W.  Pico  streets. 

Union  Avenue — 301  N.  Union  avenue. 


i6g 

University — 1020  W.  Jefferson  street. 

Vincent — 119  E.  29th  street. 

Wesley  Chapel  (colored) — 603  Maple  avenue. 

Westlake — 8th  street  and  Burlington  avenue. 

Bellevue  Avenue — 1035  Bellevue  avenue. 

Mateo  Street — 2001  E.  Sixth  street. 

Trinity — 845  S.  Grand  avenue. 

West  End — 1809  S.  Union  avenue. 

Presbyterian  Churches. — Bethany — Corner  Bellevue  ave- 
nue and  Holliday  street. 

Bethesda — Central  avenue  and  9th  street. 

Boyle  Heights — 132  N.  Chicago  street. 

Central — 209  S.  Broadvi^ay. 

Church  of  the  Redeemer — Jefferson  and  Vermont  avenue. 

Chinese  First  Presbyterian — 214  Wilmington. 

Cumberland — loth  and  Union  avenue. 

First — 20th  and  Figueroa  streets. 

Grand  View — Vermont  avenue  and  23d  street. 

Highland  Park — Marmion  Way  and  Avenue  50. 

Immanuel — Figueroa  and  loth  streets. 

Divine  Memorial  Mission — 1049  Avenue  33. 

Knox — 134  W.  30th  street. 

Second — Downey  avenue  and  Daly  street. 

Third — Corner  Hill  and  i6th  streets. 

Welch — 436  Crocker  street. 

Reformed  Presbyterian — 430  E.  21st  street. 

Spanish  Presbyterian — 1039  Macy  street. 

United  Presbyterian  Churches. — First — 754  S.  Hill  street. 

Second — Santee  and  Washington  streets. 

Unitarian. — Church  of  the  Unity — 927  S.  Flower  street. 

Independent  Church  of  Christ — 734  S.  Hope  street. 

Miscellaneous. — Church  of  the  Nazarene — 526  S.  Los 
Angeles  street. 


170 

Dunkards  (Tiinkcrs-Gcrman  Baptists)  Brethren  Cluircli 
— 234  South  Hancock. 

Gospel  Tabernacle — 4361^2  S.  Spring  street. 

Latter  Day  Saints  (reorganized) — iith  and  Wall  streets. 

Latter  Day  Saints  (reorganized  church) — 516  Temple. 

New  Christian  Church  (Swcdenborgian) — 515  E.  9th. 

Peniel  Mission  (undenominational) — 227  S.  Main  street. 

United  Brethren  Church — Pico  and  Hope  streets. 

Volunteers  of  America — 128  E.  ist  street. 

Seventh  Day  Adventist — 141  Carr  street. 

Salvation  Army. — Headquarters  and  Corps  No.  i — 3275/2 
S.  Spring  street. 

Corps  No.  2 — 103   San  Pedro  street. 

Salvation  Army  Shelter — loi  San  Pedro  street. 

Missiojis. — Channing  Street  Mission  (German) — 1356 
Channing  street. 

Chinese  Children's  School   (Presbyterian) — 766  Juan. 

Chinese  Mission  (Baptist) — 608  N.  Main  street. 

Chinese    Mission    (Congregational) — 109^2    Commercial. 

Chinese  Mission   (Presbyterian) — 214  Wilmington  street. 

Chinese  Mission  (Methodist  Episcopal) — 208  N.  Lo.= 
Angeles  street. 

Pacific  Gospel  Union — 323  E.  2d  street. 

San  Fernando  Street  Mission — 1512  San  Fernando. 

Spanish  Mission  (Presbyterian) — 1039  Macy. 

Benevolent  Organizations. — Associated  Charities,  rooms 
11-12  Court  House. 

California  Children's  Home  Society  Receiving  Home, 
1 105  E.  25th  street. 

Catholic  Ladies'  Aid  Society,  Cathedral  Hall. 

Christian  Hospital  Association  of  Los  Angeles,  1022  S. 
Flower  street. 

Florence  Home  of  Los  Angeles  fox  Girls,  1632  Santee 
street. 


171 

Flower  Festival  Boarding  Home,  125  E.  Fourth  street. 

French  Benevolent  Society,  913  Castelar  street. 

German  Ladies'  Benevolent  Association,  Mrs.  W.  T. 
Grosser,  Secretary. 

Hebrew  Benevolent  Society,  room  109  Hellman  Bldg. 

Hollenbeck  Home  for  Aged  People,  Boyle  avenue,  be- 
tween Fifth  and  Sixth  streets. 

Home  of  the  Guardian  Angel  for  Little  Children,  333  S. 
Figueroa  street. 

Home  of  Peace  Society,  Mrs.  V.  Katz,  Secretary. 

Industrial  Home  and  School  for  Spanish  Girls,  182 
Hewitt  street. 

Italian  Mutual  Benevolent  Association,  ']'^(i  Buena  Vista 
street. 

King's  Daughters  Day  Nursery,  Florence  A.  Tatham,  Sec- 
retary. 

Ladies'  Auxiliary,  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  Y.  M.  C.  A.  Bldg. 

Lark  Ellen  Home  for  News  and  Working  Boys,  808  San 
Pedro  street. 

Los  Angeles  Mercy  Home  for  Old  Women  and  Working 
Girls,  Z2(i  Boyd  street. 

Los  Angeles  Orphan  Asylum,  Boyle  and  Stephenson 
avenues. 

Los  Angeles  Orphans'  Home  Society,  809  Yale  street. 

Ransome  Home,  134  E.  First  street. 

Salvation  Army  Headquarters,  327  S.  Spring  street. 

Salvation  Army  Rescue  Home,  330  Griffith  avenue. 

W.  C.  T.  U.,  Temperance  Temple. 

Y.  M.  C.  A.,  209  S.  Broadway. 

Y.  M.  C.  A.,  2iii/i  W.  Second. 

Hotels. — Los  Angeles  is  better  provided  with  hotels  than 
any  other  city  of  its  size  in  the  world.  Centrally  located 
are  a  dozen  well-known  hotels,  where  a  large  trancient 
tourist  as  well  as  commercial  traveling  clientage  is  handled. 


172 

Skirting  tlic  business  district  on  tlic  l)ranch  numeral  streets 
and  along  Hill  street  are  many  family  hotels.  In  the  out- 
lying residential  districts  at  intervals  of  every  five  or  six 
blocks  arc  fine-appointed  establishments  with  handsome 
landscape  surroundings. 

Abbey,  232  S.  Hill  street. 

Angelus,  Fourth  and  Spring  streets. 

Abbotsford  Inn,  801  S.  Hope  street. 

Aldine,  326  S.  Hill  street. 

Arcade  Depot  Hotel,  900  E.  Fifth  street. 

Beacon,  The,  720  Beacon  street. 

Burlington  Hotel,  235  E.  Second  street. 

Baltimore,  427  W.  Seventh  street. 

Bellevue  Terrace,  545  S.  Figueroa  street. 

Broadway,  429  Broadway. 

Brunswick,  602  S.  Hill  street. 

Buckley,  734  S.  Hill  street. 

California,  331  W.  Second  street. 

Catalina,  439  S.  Broadway. 

Clarendon,  406  S.  Hill  street. 

Colonade,  328  S.  Hill  street. 

Columbia,  612  S.  Broadway. 

Corona,  227  W.  Seventh  street. 

Fremont,  cor.  Fourth  and  Olive  streets. 

Grand  Central,  326  N.  Main  street. 

Gray  Gables,  cor.  Seventh  and  Hill  streets. 

Gray  Hotel,  274  S.  j\Iain  street. 

Hollenbeck  Hotel,  S.  W.  cor.  Spring  and  Second  streets. 
•   Hollingsworth,  506  S.  Hill  street. 

Johnson,  123  E.  Fourth  street. 

Lillie,  534  S.  Hill  street. 

Lincoln,  207  S.  Hill  street. 

Lakeview,  N.  E.  cor  W.  Sixth  and  Sherman  streets. 

Livingston,  635  S.  Hill  street. 


173 

Mt.  Pleasant,  cor  E.  First  and  Boyle  avenues. 

Nadeau,  First  and  Spring  streets. 

Natick  House,  io8  W.  First  street. 

National,  430  N,  Main  street. 

Palms,  615  S.  Broadway. 

Rosslyn,  Main  street,  opposite  Postoffice. 

Raniona,  305  S.  Spring  street. 

St.  Elmo,  343  N.  Main  street. 

St.  Charles  Hotel,  314  N.  Main  street. 

Van  Nuys,  Main,  N.  W.  cor.  Fourth  street. 

Vera,  405^  S.  Broadway. 

United  States,  168  N.  Main  street. 

Van  Nuys,  Broadway,  416-420  S.  Broadway. 

Westlake  Hotel,  720  Westlake  avenue. 

Westminster,  cor.  Fourth  and  S.  Main  streets. 

Rooming  and  Boarding  Houses. — There  are  a  vast  num- 
ber of  these  in  Los  Angeles,  but  as  they  are  of  so  varied  and 
changing  a  character  a  full  list  cannot  be  published.  A 
directory  may  be  consulted  in  any  drug  store,  or  the  ad- 
vertisements seen  in  the  local  daily  newspapers. 

Foreign  Consuls. — The  consuls  located  in  Los  Angeles 
are  as  follows : 

Belgium,  V.  Ponet,  102  N.  Main. 

Chili,  C.  S.  Walton,  2201/2  S.  Spring. 

Ecuador,  T.  L.  Duque,  corner  N.  Main  and  Spring. 

France,  Auguste  Fusenot,  221  S.  Broadway. 

Great  Britain,  C.  White  Mortimer,  71  Temple  Bldg. 

Central  America,  T.  L.  Duque,  corner  N.  Main  and 
Spring. 

Mexico,  G.  Andrade,  218  N.  Main. 

United  States  Government  Officials. — The  following  is  the 
list  of  federal  officials  in  Los  Angeles : 

U.  S.  Circuit  Court — Tajo  Building,  First  and  Broadway, 
Judge  E.  M.  Ross. 


174 

U.  S.  District  Court — Tajo  Building,  First  and  Broadway, 
Judge  Olin  Wellborn. 

U.  S.  Attorney — L.  II.  Valentine,  E.sq. 

U.  S.  Commissioners  and  Clerks — Wm.  II.  Van  Dyke,  E. 
II.  Owen. 

Crier  and  Interpreter — Ralph  J.  Dominguez. 

Deputies — Wm.  Rector,  Henry  Duing,  Ed.  Wailing. 

U.  S.  Marshal — H.  Z.  Osborne.  Geo.  McCulIough,  Deputy ; 
H.  T.  Christian,  Office  Deputy. 

U.  S.  Secret  Service — John  F.  Cronin,  213  Lankershim 
Building. 

U.  S.  Weather  Bureau — G.  E.  Franklin,  Trust  Building, 
Second  and  Spring. 

U.  S.  Collector— J.  C.  Cline,  222^^  N.  Main. 

U.  S.  Custom  House — 222J/2  N.  Main. 

U.  S.  Land  Office— Arthur  W.  Kinney  and  A.  J.  Crook- 
shank,  Potomac  Building. 

U.  S.  Internal  Revenue — Bullard  Block. 

Forest  Superintendent — S.  P.  Allen,  Potomac  Building. 

U.  S.  Engineer Capt.  Jadwin,  Bradbury  Building. 

U.  S.  Marine  Hospital — Wilcox  Building. 

Transportation  Facilities. — Three  railroads  afford  trans- 
portation for  Los  Angeles.  The  branches  and  divisions,  if 
counted  separately,  would  multiply  the  number  by  seven. 

No  less  than  twenty  railroad  lines,  steam  and  electric, 
enter  the  city  of  Los  Angeles.  Here  is  a  city  of  140,000 
to  150,000  inhabitants,  set  in  the  heart  of  a  valley  only 
about  200  miles  long  in  its  greatest,  extent,  from  San  Diego 
to  Santa  Barbara,  and  not  exceed  seventy-five  miles  wide 
at  its  widest  point. 

Of  the  steam  lines,  the  Sunset  route  via  New  Orleans, 
the  Santa  Fe  route  via  Kansas  City,  and  the  Southern 
Pacific  via  Ogden  are  all  transcontinental  systems.  The 
Southern  Pacific  has  two  branches,  one  via  the  San  Joaquin 


175 

Valley,  the  other  up  the  coast,  via  Santa  Barbara.  This 
system  stretches  north  to  Portland,  Ore.,  to  Puget  Sound, 
British  Columbia,  and  from  these  points  east  by  three 
great  lines. 

Besides  these  various  transcontinental  lines,  there  is  the 
San  Pedro,  Los  Angeles  and  Salt  Lake  road.  The  Salt 
Lake  route  has  made  material  progress  during  the  year 
just  closed.  It  is  now  completed  to  Riverside  and  San 
Bernardino.  It  is  eventually  to  go  on  to  Salt  Lake  City. 
The  Union  Pacific  extension,  from  Salt  Lake  southwesterly 
to  the  city,  has  made  but  little  progress  during  the  year. 
Its  owners  still  insist  that  it  is  to  be  built  to  Los  Angeles 
closely  paralleling  Senator  Clark's  Salt  Lake  route  road. 

The  steam  lines  which  enter  Los  Angeles  handle  a  total 
of  eighty  passenger  trains  a  day.  More  than  thirty  of  these 
are  continental  trains.  About  two  hundred  and  twenty-five 
trains  come  and  go  daily  on  steam  lines.  This  includes 
freight  and  passenger,  local  and  transcontinental  trains. 
The  pay  rolls  of  these  companies  foot  up  over  $400,000  per 
month.  For  regular  pay  rolls  and  construction  crews  the 
monthly  disbursements  in  and  about  this  city  are  not  far 
from  $600,000. 

The  railroad  men  of  all  classes,  who  find  employment 
regularly  or  otherwise,  in  and  around  Los  Angeles,  would 
number  close  to  4,000.  With  their  families,  they  would 
count  probably  6,000  souls. 

The  reasons  for  all  this  activity  in  railroading  in  Los 
Angeles  and  Southern  California  are  these:  It  is  estimated 
that  climatic  and  other  considerations  draw  here  not  less 
than  75,000  people  a  year.  Most  of  these  return  to  their 
eastern  homes  after  a  longer  or  shorter  stay;  the  products 
of  Southern  California  soil  sent  East  amount  to  about 
30,000  carloads  a  year;  much  of  the  food  consumed  here, 
and  the  clothing,  most  of  the  household  goods  and  imple- 


176 

ments  and  machinery,  wagons  and  other  vehicles,  are 
brought  in  from  the  East. 

Southern  Pacific. — G.  A.  Parkyns,  Asst.  Gen.  Freight  and 
Passenger  Agent.     General  offices,  261  South  Spring  street. 

Santa  Fe. — A.  G.  Wells,  Gen.  Manager;  John  J.  Byrne, 
Gen.  Passenger  Agent.  General  offices.  Conservative  Life 
Insurance  Building,  Third  and  Hill  streets. 

San  Pedro,  Los  Angeles  and  Salt  Lake. — J.  Ross  Clark, 
Second  Vice-President;  office  325  Douglas  Building.  R. 
E.  Wells,  Gen.  Manager;  First  and  Myers  streets. 

Railroad  Directory. — General  agents  of  foreign  lines : 

California  Eastern :  R.  S.  Scibert,  212  Currier  Bldg.,  Tel. 
John  1,701. 

Chicago  and  Alton  :  G.  M.  Page,  109  Stimson  Bldg.,  Tel. 
Main  714. 

Chicago,  Burlin,gton  and  Quincy ;  W.  W.  Elliott,  222  S. 
Spring  street,  Tel.  Main  1,003. 

Chicago,  Milwaukee  and  St.  Paul;  P.  E.  Fisk,  in  Stim- 
son Bldg.,  Tel.  Main  1,024. 

Chicago  and  Northwestern ;  W.  D.  Campbell,  247  S. 
Spring  street,  Tel.  ATain  628. 

Chicago,  Rock  Island  and  Pacific;  F.  A.  Miller,  237  S. 
Spring  street,  Tel.  Main  960. 

Erie  Railroad ;  B.  S.  Harkness,  126  Stimson  Bldg. 

Gila  Valley,  Globe  and  Northern ;  Wm.  Garland,  313 
Stimson  Bldg.,  Tel.  IMain  1,438. 

Grand  Trunk;  W.  H.  Bullen,  302  Wilcox  Bldg.,  Tel. 
Main  123. 

Illinois  Central ;  C.  Haydock,  238  S.  Spring  street.  Tel. 
Main  1,616. 

Judson  Alton  Excursions;  Geo.  W.  Page,  109  Stimson 
Bid- 
New  York  Central ;  F.  L.  Byron,  324  Broadway,  Tel. 
Main  1,339. 


177 

Northern  Pacific;  C.  E.  Johnson,  125  W.  Third  street, 
Tel.  John  2,491. 

Pennsylvania  Lines ;  G.  B.  Tedrick,  P,  O.  Box,  371. 

Piedmont  Air  Line  (Southern  Ry.)  ;  A.  M.  Barum, 
Pacific  Coast  Passenger  Agent,  207  W.  Third  street. 

Raymond  &  Whitcomb's  Excursion  Agency;  324  S.Broad- 
way, Tel.  Main  1,339. 

Santa  Fe  and  Arizona  Southern ;  E.  J.  Carter,  302  Wil- 
cox Bldg. 

St.  Louis  and  San  Francisco;  J.  F.  Edwards,  208  Stim- 
son  Bldg. 

Texas  and  Pacific;  T.  J.  Fitzgerald,  230  S.  Spring  street, 
Tel.  Main  392. 

Thos.  Cook  &  Sons;  Hugh  B.  Rice,  230  S.  Spring  street, 
Tel.  Main  392. 

Union  Pacific;  G.  F.  Herr,  250  S.  Spring  street,  Tel. 
Main  598. 

Wabash ;  Ross  C.  Cline,  Stimson  Bldg. 

Railroads  Depots. — Arcade  Depot —  (S.  P.)  Fifth  street 
and  Central  avenue. 

Pasadena — (Electric),  316  W.  Fourth  street  and  6th  and 
Main. 

Redondo  Ry.  Depot. — Jefferson  street  and  Grand  avenue. 

River  Station. —  (S.  P.),  1501  San  Fernando  street. 

Salt  Lake  Route  Depot — First  and  Meyers  streets. 

San  Gabriel  and  Alhambra   (Electric),  Sixth  and  Main. 

San  Pedro — (Electric),  runs  up  Third  street. 

Long  Beach — (Electric),  Sixth  and  Main. 

Monrovia  and  Baldwin's  Ranch — (Electric),  Sixth  and 
Main. 

Santa  Fe  (La  Grande)  Depot — Santa  Fe  Avenue,  be- 
tween First  and  Second  streets. 

Santa  Monica — (Electric),  316  W.  Fourth  street. 


178 

University  Station — (S.  P.),  Vermont  Avenue  and  Santa 
Monica  avenue. 

Whittier — (Electric)   Sixth  and  Main  streets. 

Street  Railways. — Los  Angeles  has  a  street  railway  sys- 
tem equal,  if  not  superior,  to  that  of  any  first-class  city 
in  the  country.  In  the  city  and  suburban  lines,  there  arc 
about  300  miles  of  electric  railway,  and  to  operate  the  sys- 
tem an  army  of  men  is  required.  Most  of  the  cars  are  ca- 
pable of  high  speed  and  are  models  of  comfort  and  conven- 
ience. 

During  the  year  much  work  has  been  done  in  building 
new  electric  lines  to  many  points.  The  Huntington-Hell- 
man  syndicate  has  been  very  active.  The  Pasadena  cut-off 
has  been  completed,  shortening  the  distance  between  that 
city  and  Los  Angeles.  A  branch  from  this  has  been  con- 
structed to  Alhambra,  and  on  to  San  Gabriel.  This  line 
has  also  been  extended  south  of  Pasadena  to  Monrovia,  a 
distance  of  sixteen  miles  from  Los  Angeles. 

The  Los  Angeles  and  Pacific  road  has  built  via  The 
Palms  and  Ocean  Park  to  Santa  Monica,  making  its  line 
a  belt  of  sixteen  miles  or  more  on  each  lap. 

The  Traction  Gampany  has  built  a  new  line  to  San  Pedro, 
nearly  twenty  miles  long,  paralleling  the  new  Long  Beach 
line  of  the  Huntington  system.  In  all,  close  to  100  miles  of 
new  electric  road  have  been  built  during  the  year. 

The  Redondo  road  has  constructed  an  electric  line  from 
Redondo  to  Los  Angeles,  and  converted  their  old  steam  road 
to  a  combination  steam  and  electric,  making  a  loop  of 
about  sixteen  miles  on  each  side. 

Inside  the  city  the  two  companies  operating  street  cars 
have  made  great  improvements.  The  Los  Angeles  Rail- 
road Co.  has  built  several  important  short  branches,  and 
has  reconstructed  about  ten  miles  of  ito  old  lines,  practically 
rebuilding  all  this  mileage;  and  has  built  over  five  miles  of 


179 

new  track,  single.  This  company  has  now  in  operation,  in 
round  numbers,  in  the  city  lOO  miles  of  single  track.  A 
great  many  new  cars  have  been  added,  and  the  company  is 
now  operating  not  less  than  300  cars  a  day.  This  company 
has  just  converted  nearly  three  miles  of  the  old  Temple 
street  cable  road  into  a  thoroughly  modern  electric  road. 
The  company  also  contemplates  much  new  building  during 
the  year  1904.  Its  sister  company,  the  Pacific  Electric,  is 
operating  over  100  miles  of  single  track  at  present. 

At  one  point  in  Los  Angeles,  the  corner  of  Spring  and 
First  streets,  upward  of  .3,200  cars  pass  in  a  day. 

The  Pacific  electric  shops  built  during  the  year  cover 
nearly  six  acres  of  ground,  and  constitute  one  of  the  finest 
modern  systems  of  shops  in  the  countr}'.  The  company  is 
now  engaged  in  the  erection  of  a  great  central  depot  in 
the  heart  of  the  city,  where  all  its  interurban  lines  will 
converge.  It  will  be  a  great  structure,  twelve  stories  high. 
It  will  not  be  completed  in  less  than  a  year. 

The  Traction  people  are  also  putting  up  large  shops  and 
a  new  power-house,  to  meet  the  demands  of  their  growing 
system. 

The  electric  roads  centering  in  Los  Angeles  handle  near- 
ly 600  cars  a  day.  The  men  regularly  employed  number 
about  2,000.  The  pay  of  all  men  and  officers  amounts  to 
more  than  $100,000  per  month.  The  construction  crews 
amount  to  nearly  1,000  men,  and  the  disbursements  are 
nearly  $50,000  per  month. 

General  offices  of  the  Los  Angeles  Railway  Co.,  corner 
Sixth  and  S.  Main  streets.    J.  A.  Muir,  general  manager. 

Pacific  Electric  Co.,  Sixth  and  S.  INIain  streets.  Epes 
Randolph,  manager. 

Los  Angeles-Pacific  Electric,  316  W.  Fourth  street.  E. 
P.  Clark,  manager. 


i8o 

Lf)S  Angeles  'IVaction  Co.,  Georgia  and  Girard  streets. 
W.  S.  Hook,  manager. 

Los  Angeles-Rcdondo  Electric  Co.,  217  W.  Second  street. 

LOS    ANGEI.ES    RAILWAY    CO. 

Southern  Pacific  Depot  Line  connects  with  all  trains  at 
Arcade  Station,  and  runs  via  Fifth,  Fourth,  Main  and 
Spring  streets  to  the  Plaza,  and  all  the  leading  hotels 
First  car  from  the  Depot  at  5  :45  a.  m. ;  last  car  from  thf 
Depot  at  12:20.  Going  from  the  Depot  transfer  south  at 
Fifth  and  San  Pedro  streets;  south  at  Fourth  and  'Main 
streets ;  south  on  Spring  and  Broadway  at  Fourth  and 
Spring  streets ;  west  at  Second  and  Spring  streets ;  to  Belt 
Line  west,  at  First  and  Spring  streets;  to  Boyle  Heights 
east ;  to  all  north-bound  cars  at  Temple  Block.  South 
bound  at  Temple  Block  to  south-bound  cars  on  Main  street ; 
at  First  and  Spring  streets  to  cars  east  and  west  bound ;  at 
Second  and  Spring  streets  to  east  and  west-bound  cars;  at 
Fourth  and  Spring  streets  to  south-bound  cars  on  Spring 
street;  at  Fifth  and  Central  avenue  south-bound. 

University  Line  runs  through  the  business  section  on 
Spring  street  from  University  station  of  the  Southern  Pa- 
cific and  Agricultural  Park  through  to  East  Los  Angeles,  to 
Daly  St.  Cars  run  every  four  and  a  half  minutes.  First 
car  from  each  end  6  a.  m. ;  last  car  from  Daly  street,  12:52; 
from  Agricultural  Pa>k.  t  o'clock;  from  First  and  Spring, 
at  12:30.  Transfer  north-bound  at  Washington  and  Estrel- 
la  avenue  west  and  north ;  at  Pico  and  Flower  streets  west 
at  tenth  and  Grand  avenue  north  and  south ;  at  Ninth  and 
Main  streets  to  E.  Ninth  street ;  at  the  Postoffice  "stop- 
overs" ;  at  Fifth  and  Spring  streets  to  Maple  avenue ;  at 
Fourth  and  Spring  streets  to  Southern  Pacific  Depot ;  at 
Second  and  Spring  streets  to  Santa  Fe  Depot  and  Westlakc 
Ccirs ;  at  First  and  Spring  streets  to  west-bound  Belt  Line 


i8i 

cars  and  east-bound  Boyle  Heights  cars;  at  Temple  Block 
lo  all  north-bound  cars.  South-bound  at  the  Plaza  to  Belt 
Line  cars  east-bound;  at  Temple  Block  to  south-bound 
cars  on  Main  street;  at  First  and  Spring  streets  to  east  and 
west-bound  First  street  cars;  at  Second  and  Spring  streets 
to  Santa  Fe  Depot,  Vernon  and  Westlake  cars ;  at  Fourth 
and  Spring  streets  to  Southern  Pacific  Depot ;  at  Fifth  and 
Spring  streets  to  Washington  street  and  Maple  avenue;  at 
Ninth  and  Spring  streets  to  W.  Ninth  and  E.  Ninth  street; 
at  Tenth  and  Grand  avenue  south ;  at  Washington  and  Es- 
trella  west;  at  Pico  and  Flower  streets  west. 

Westlake  Park  car  starts  from  Second  and  Spring  streets 
via  Second,  Olive,  First  and  Alvarado,  to  Westlake  Park. 
Cars  run  every  seven  minutes.  First  car  from  Second  and 
Spring  streets  5  :40  a.  m., ;  first  car  from  Westlake,  6  a.  m. ; 
last  car  from  Second  and  Spring  streets  12:30;  last  car  from 
the  Park,  12:48.  Issue  transfers  at  Second  and  Broadway 
to  south  and  north-bound  cars ;  at  Second  and  Spring  streets 
to  all  cars  north,  south  or  east-bound ;  at  Seventh  and  Alva- 
rado streets  to  west-bound  cars. 

Pico  Heights  Line  cars  operate  from  Temple  Block  via 
Main,  First,  Broadway,  Tenth,  Flower  and  Pico  to  Coun- 
try Club  and  golf  grounds.  Cars  every  five  minutes.  First 
car  from  Second  and  Spring  streets  5 :30  a.  m. ;  first  car 
from  Pico  Heights  terminus  6  a.  m. ;  last  car  from  Temple 
Block  12:30;  last  car  from  Pico  terminus  i  o'clock.  Trans- 
fer east  bound  at  Pico  and  Figueroa  streets  north  and 
south ;  at  Pico  and  Flower  streets  south ;  at  Tenth  and 
Grand  avenue  north  and  south ;  at  Ninth  and  Broadway 
to  E.  Ninth  street ;  at  Fifth  and  Broadway  to  Maple  avenue ; 
at  Fourth  and  Broadway  to  Southern  Pacific  Depot;  at 
Second  and  Broadway  to  Westlake;  at  First  and  Broadway 
to  Belt  Line ;  at  First  and  Spring  streets  to  east-bound 
Boyle  Heights  cars ;  at  Temple     Block  to  all  north-bound 


1 82 

cars.  South  bound  at  Second  and  Broadway  to  Wcstlake 
cars  west;  at  Fifth  and  Broadway  to  Washington  street;  at 
Sevcntli  and  Broadway  to  W.  Seventh  street;  at  Tenth  and 
Grand  avenue  south ;  at  Pico  and  Florence  streets  south ;  at 
Pico  and  Figueroa  streets  south. 

Boyie  Heights  and  Seventh  Street  Line  through  busi- 
ness section  via  First,  Broadway  and  Seventh  to  Rampart 
street  and  Westlake  Park  on  the  west,  and  Evergreen 
Cemetery  on  the  east.  Cars  every  five  minutes.  First  car 
from  each  terminus  6  a.m.;  last  car  from  center  of  the 
city  12:30;  last  car  from  each  terminus  12:50.  Transfer 
east  bound  at  Seventh  and  Alvarado  streets,  north ;  at 
seventh  and  Figueroa  streets  north  and  south ;  at  Seventh 
and  Grand  avenue  south ;  at  Fifth  and  Broadway  to  Maple 
avenue;  at  Fourth  and  Broadway  to  Southern  Pacific 
Depot;  at  Second  and  Broadway  to  Westlake;  at  First 
and  Broadway  to  Belt  Line;  at  First  and  Spring  streets 
to  north-bound  cars ;  at  First  and  Main  streets  to  south- 
bound cars;  at  First  and  Santa  Fe  avenue  to  E.  Ninth 
street  cars ;  at  First  and  Cummings  streets  to  Cummings 
street.  Issue  west-bound  at  Cummings  street  south ;  at 
First  and  Santa  Fe  avenue  south  to  E.  Ninth  street;  at 
First  and  Main  streets  south ;  at  First  and  Spring  streets 
to  west-bound  Belt  Line  cars,  to  all  north  and  south-bound 
cars  on  Spring  street ;  at  Second  and  Broadway  to  West- 
lake;  at  Fifth  and  Broadway  to  Washington  street  west; 
at  Seventh  and  Broadway  to  Pico  Heights  south-bound ; 
at  Seventh  and  Grand  avenue  south ;  at  Seventh  and 
Figueroa  streets  south. 

Cummings  Street  Line. — Cars  on  this  line  connect  at 
First  and  Cummings  streets  with  the  Boyle  Heights  and 
Seventh  street  line  and  run  direct  to  Hollenbeck  Park, 
HoIIenbeck  Home  and  Los  Angeles  Orphan  Asylum.  First 


i83 

car  6  a.  m. ;  last  car  12:30.  Transfer  cast  and  west  at 
First  and  Cummings  streets. 

IVest  Ninth  Street  Line  cars  operate  from  Temple 
Block  via  Main,  First,  Spring  and  Ninth  streets  to  Grand 
View  avenue.  Cars  every  five  minutes.  First  car  from 
Second  and  Spring  streets  5 :45  a.  m. ;  first  car  froih 
Grand  View  avenue  6  a.  m. ;  last  car  from  Temple  Block 
at  12:30;  last  car  from  Grand  View  avenue  12:52.  Trans- 
fer east-bound  at  Ninth  and  Figueroa  streets  north  and 
south;  at  Ninth  and  Grand  avenue  south;  at  Ninth  and 
Spring  streets  south  to  Main  street  cars  (only)  and  E. 
Ninth  street;  at  the  Postoffice  "stop-overs;"  at  Fifth  and 
Spring  streets  to  Maple  avenue;  at  Fourth  and  Spring 
streets  to  Southern  Pacific  Depot;  at  Second  and  Spring 
streets  to  Santa  Fe  Depot  and  Westlake;  at  First  and 
Spring  streets  to  east-bound  Boyle  Heights  and  Belt  Line 
cars  west-bound ;  at  Temple  Block  to  all  north-bound  cars. 
South-bound  at  Second  and  Spring  streets  to  east  and  west- 
bound cars  on  Second  street;  at  Fourth  and  Spring 
streets  to  Southern  Pacific  Depot;  at  Fifth  and  Spring 
streets  to  Maple  avenue  and  Washington  street;  at  Ninth 
and  Spring  streets  to  E.  Ninth  St. ;  at  Ninth  and  Grand 
avenue  south;  at  Ninth  and  Figueroa  streets  south. 

Grand  and  Dozmiey  Avenue  Line. — This  trunk  line 
passes  through  the  main  arteries  of  the  city  from  Jeffer- 
son street  and  Grand  avenue  via  Grand  avenue,  Seventh, 
Broadway,  First,  Spring,  Main,  San  Fernando  streets, 
Downey  avenue  and  Pritchard  street  to  Eastlake  Park. 
Cars  every  five  minutes.  First  car  from  each  terminus  6 
a.m.;  last  car  from  Jefferson  street  12:56;  last  car  from 
Eastlake  Park  at  12 :54.  Last  car  from  First  and  Spring 
street  at  12 :30.  Transfer  north-bound  at  Tenth  and  Grand 
avenue  to  west-bound  cars  at  Ninth  and  Grand  avenue 
west;   at  Seventh  and   Grand  avenue  west;   at  Fifth  and 


i84 

Hroadvvay  to  Maple  avenue;  at  Fourth  and  Broadway  to 
Southern  Pacific  Depot ;  at  Second  and  Broadway  to 
Westlake ;  at  First  and  Broadway  to  west-bound  Belt 
Line ;  at  First  and  Spring  streets  to  east-bound  Boyle 
Heights;  at  Temple  Block  to  all  north-bound  cars.  South- 
bound at  the  Plaza  to  Belt  Line  east-bound;  at  Temple 
Block  to  south-bound  cars  on  Main  street;  at  First  and 
Spring  streets  to  west-bound  Belt  Line  cars,  all  south- 
bound cars  on  Spring  street,  east-bound  Boyle  Heights 
cars ;  at  Second  and  Broadway  to  west-bound  Westlake 
cars;  at  Fifth  and  Broadway  to  west-bound  Washington 
street  cars ;  at  Seventh  and  Broadway  to  Pico  Heights 
south ;  at  Seventh  and  Grand  avenue  to  W.  Seventh  street 
cars ;  at  Tenth  and  Grand  avenue  to  west-bound  cars. 

Washington  Street  Line  operates  from  the  Santa  Fe  (La 
Grande)  Station  via  Third,  Second,  Spring,  Fifth,  Olive, 
Sixth,  Figueroa  and  Washington  streets  to  Rosedale  Ceme- 
tery and  Western  avenue.  Cars  every  seven  minutes. 
First  car  from  Santa  Fe  Depot  6  a.  m. ;  first  car  from 
Western  avenue  6  a.  m. ;  last  car  from  Santa  Fe  Depot 
7:50  p.m.;  last  car  from  Second  and  Spring  streets  12:30; 
last  car  from  Western  avenue  I  o'clock.  Transfer  east- 
bound  at  Washington  and  Estrella  to  south  and  north- 
bound University  cars ;  at  Pico  and  Figueroa  streets  west ; 
at  Ninth  and  Figueroa  streets  east  and  west;  at  Seventh 
and  Figueroa  streets  east  and  west;  at  Fifth  and  Broad- 
way north ;  at  Fifth  and  Spring  streets  to  Maple  avenue ; 
at  Fourth  and  Spring  streets  to  Southern  Pacific  Depot; 
at  Second  and  Spring  streets  west  to  Westlake  cars,  and 
to  all  north-bound  cars;  at  Santa  Fe  Depot  to  E.  Ninth 
and  Mateo  street  cars  south.  West-bound  at  Second  and 
Central  avenue  south;  at  Second  and  Main  streets  south 
and  north ;  at  Second  and  Spring  streets  north-bounfl  cars 
and  Westlake;  at  Fourth  and  Spring  streets  to  Southern 


i85 

Pacific  Depot;  at  Fifth  and  Spring  streets  to  south-bound 
cars  on  Spring  street  and  to  Maple  avenue  cars;  at  Fifth 
and  Broadway  to  south-bound  cars  on  Broadway;  at 
Seventh  and  Figueroa  streets  west;  at  Ninth  and  Figueroa 
streets  west;  at  Pico  and  Figueroa  streets  west;  at  Wash- 
ington and  Estrella  south. 

Main  Street  Line  cars  leave  Temple  Block  every  five 
minutes  via  Main  and  Jefferson  and  Wesley  avenue  to 
Agricultural  Park,  passing  Westminster  and  Van  Nuys 
hotels  and  chutes.  First  car  from  each  terminus  6  a.  m. ; 
last  car  from  Temple  Block  12:30;  last  car  from  Agricul- 
tural Park  12 :58.  Transfer  north-bound  at  Ninth  street 
to  W.  and  E.  Ninth  street;  at  Eighth  and  Main  streets 
Postoffice  "stop-overs"  (good  only  on  Main  street  cars)  ; 
at  Fifth  and  Main  streets  east  to  Blue  Line  cars  (only)  ; 
at  Fourth  and  Main  streets  east  to  Southern  Pacific  Depot; 
at  Second  and  Main  streets  east  to  Santa  Fe  Depot;  at 
First  and  Main  streets  east  to  Boyle  Heights  cars,  west 
to  Boyle  Heights  and  Pico  Heights  cars ;  at  Temple  Block 
to  all  north-bound  cars.  South-bound  at  First  and  Main 
streets  to  east-bound  Boyle  Heights  cars ;  at  Second  and 
Main  streets  to  east-bound  Vernon  and  Washington  street 
cars;  at  Ninth  street  to  E.  Ninth  street. 

Maple  Avenue  and  Eastlake  Park  Line  cars  leave  Thir- 
ty-second street  and  Maple  avenue  via  Maple  to  Fifth, 
Spring,  Temple  Block  and  N.  Main  to  Eastlake  Park. 
First  car  from  each  terminus  6  a.  m. ;  last  car  from  center 
of  the  city  12:30;  last  car  from  Eastlake  Park  12:50;  last 
car  at  Thirty-second  street  12:50.  Transfer  north-bound 
at  Ninth  and  Maple  avenue  east  and  west ;  at  Fifth  street 
to  east-bound  Blue  Line  cars  (only)  ;  at  Fifth  and  Spring 
streets  to  west-bound  Washington  street  cars  and  south- 
bound cars  on  Spring  street ;  good  at  Fifth  and  Broadway 
on    south-bound    cars;    at    Fourth    and    Spring    streets    to 


i86 

Southern  Pacific  Depot;  at  Second  and  Spring  streets  to 
Santa  Fe  Depot  and  Westlake;  at  First  and  Spring  streets 
to  east-bound  Boyle  Heights  and  west-bound  Belt  Line 
cars;  at  Temple  Block  to  all  north-bound  cars.  South- 
bound at  Main  and  Macy  streets  to  east-bound  Belt  Line 
cars ;  at  Temple  Block  to  south-bound  cars  on  Main  street ; 
at  First  and  Spring  streets  to  all  east  and  west-bound  cars 
on  First  street;  at  Second  and  Spring  streets  to  east  and 
west-bound  cars  on  Second  street;  at  Fourth  and  Spring 
streets  to  Southern  Pacific  Depot;  at  Fifth  and  Spring 
streets  to  west-bound  Washington  street  cars  and  south- 
bound cars  on  Spring  street;  at  Ninth  and  Maple  avenue 
to  E.  Ninth  street  cars. 

Vernon  Cars  leave  Second  and  Spring  streets  every 
seven  minutes  via  Second  street  and  Central  avenue  to 
Vernon,  passing  Southern  Pacific  station  (Arcade),  offices, 
power  house  and  shops  of  the  Los  Angeles  Railway 
Company.  First  car  from  each  terminus  6  a.  m. ;  last  car 
from  Second  and  Spring  streets  12:30;  last  car  from 
Vernon  terminus  i  o'clock.  Transfer  north  bound  at 
Ninth  street  to  E.  Ninth  street  cars;  at  Fifth  street  to 
Southern  Pacific  Depot  cars;  at  Second  and  Central  avenue 
to  east-bound  Washington  street  and  east-bound  Boyle 
Heights  cars ;  at  Second  and  Main  streets  to  north-bound 
cars ;  at  Second  and  Spring  streets  to  north-bound  cars 
and  Westlake  cars.  South-bound  transfer  at  Ninth  street 
to  E.  Ninth  street  cars. 

San  Pedro  Street  Line  cars  leave  Temple  Block  every 
seven  minutes  via  Main,  Fifth  and  San  Pedro  to  Thirtieth 
street.  First  car  from  each  terminus  6  a.  m. ;  last  car  from 
Temple  Block  12:30;  last  car  from  Thirtieth  street  12:50. 
Transfer  north  bound  at  Ninth  street  to  E.  Ninth  street 
cars;  at  Fifth  and  San  Pedro  streets  to  east  bound  cars  to 
Main  to  east  bound  Washington  street  cars;  at  First  and 


187 

Main  street  to  east  bound  Boyle  Heights  and  west  bound 
Boj'le  Heights  and  Pico  Heights  cars;  at  Temple  Block 
to  all  north  bound  cars.  South  bound  at  First  and  Main 
streets  to  east  bound  Boyle  Heights  cars;  at  Second  and 
Main  streets  to  east  bound  cars ;  at  Ninth  and  San  Pedro 
streets  to  E.  Ninth  street  cars. 

East  Ninth  and  Mateo  cars  leave  Ninth  and  Main  via 
Mateo  to  First  and  Santa  Fe  avenue.  First  car  leaves 
Ninth  and  Main  streets  and  First  and  Santa  Fe  avenue  at 
6  a.  m. ;  last  cars  from  same  points  connect  with  last  cars 
from  up  town.  Transfer  south  bound  at  Ninth  and 
Mateo  streets  to  south  bound  Mateo  street  car;  at  Ninth 
and  Tennessee  streets  to  broad  gauge  cars ;  at  Ninth  and 
Central  avenue  to  Vernon  cars;  at  San  Pedro  street  to 
San  Pedro  street  cars;  at  Maple  avenue  to  Maple  avenue 
cars ;  at  Ninth  and  Main  streets  to  all  cars  north,  south 
and  west  bound.  From  Ninth  and  Main  streets  issue 
transfers  to  Maple  avenue,  San  Pedro  street  and  Vernon 
cars;  at  Ninth  and  Tennessee  streets  to  east  bound  cars; 
at  Ninth  and  Mateo  streets  to  Mateo  street  cars ;  at  Third 
and  Santa  Fe  avenue  to  Washington  street  cars ;  at  First 
and  Santa  Fe  avenue  to  Boyle  Heights  cars  east  and  west 
bound. 

PACIFIC    ELECTRIC    RAILWAY    COMPANY. 

Blue  Line. — First  car  leaves  Arcade  depot  at  5  :50  a.  m. 
via  Fifth  and  Main  street  to  Temple  Block;  last  car  leaves 
Temple  and  Main  streets  I2  -.2$  a.  m.  Transfers  at  Fifth 
and  San  Pedro  going  south  on  San  Pedro  street  line ;  Fifth 
and  Maple  south  on  Maple  street  line ;  Fifth  and  Main 
south  on  Main  street  line ;  First  and  Main  for  Boyle 
Heights. 

Belt  Line. — First  car  leaves  at  6  a.  m. ;  from  Evergreen 
Cemetery   to    W.    Temple   and    Sugg   street   via    Brooklyn 


avenue,  Bridge,  Macy,  Main,  First  and  Broadway,  Cali- 
fornia, Boston,  Figucroa,  Alpine,  Sisters'  Hospital,  Bellc- 
vuc  avenue.  Echo  Park  and  W.  Temple  to  terminus.  First 
car  leaves  Sugg  and  Temple  streets  at  6  a.  m.  via  above 
route;  last  car  leaves  in  either  direction  from  First  and 
Broadway  at  12:18  a.  m.  Transfers  issued  to  Los  Angeles 
Railway  as  follows :  First  and  Broadway  to  all  cars  going 
south  on  Broadway;  First  and  Spring  from  east  bound 
cars  to  Boyle  Heights;  First  and  Spring  to  all  south 
bound  cars ;  Temple  Block  on  all  south  bound  Main  street 
cars ;  at  Plaza  to  University,  Grand  and  Downey  and 
Maple  avenue  and  Eastlake  Park  north  bound.  Trans- 
fers issued  to  Pasadena  and  Alhambra  line  north  bound  to 
city  limits  at  Main  and  Macy  streets,  also  to  Alhambra 
cars  at  Gallardo  and  Macy  streets.  Distance  from  Ever- 
green to  Sugg  street  terminus,  6.25  miles.  Fare,  5  cents. 
This  route  goes  through  the  largest  oil  district  in  the  city. 

General  offices,  Pacific  Electric  Co.,  corner  Sixth  and 
Main  streets.  J.  B.  Rowray,  superintendent,  ofiice,  old 
Temple  street  power  house,  Edgeware  road  and  Temple 
street. 

Temple  Street  Line  from  Temple  and  Spring  to  W. 
Temple  street  terminus.     Now  under  construction. 

TR.VCTION  COMPANY. 

Main  Line  (Yellow  Cars). — Leave  Le  Grande  Station 
via  Santa  Fe  avenue.  Third,  Hill,  Eighth,  Figueroa, 
Eleventh,  Georgia,  Sixteenth,  Bush,  Hoover,  Twenty-fourth 
and  Vermont  avenue  to  University  station.  First  car  from 
University  station  5  -.$2  a.  m. ;  last  car  leaves  University 
station  11:45  P-  ™- !  first  car  leaves  Santa  Fe  station  6 
a.  m. ;  last  car  leaves  Santa  Fe  Station  12 :22  a.  m. ;  last 
car  leaves  Third  and  Spring  streets  for  University  12:30 
a.  m.     Crosses  the  city  east  and  west. 


Westlake  Line  (White  Cars). — Leave  Arcade  depot  via 
Central  avenue.  Third  and  Hill,  Eighth,  Lake,  Seventh 
(passing  Westlake  Park),  Hoover,  Wilshire  Boulevard 
and  Commonwealth  avenue  to  First.  First  car  from 
Seventh  and  Hoover  streets  6  :o6  a.  m. ;  first  car  from  First 
and  Virgil  streets  6  -.07  a.  m. ;  first  car  from  Arcade  depot 
6:06  a.  m. ;  last  car  from  First  and  Virgil  streets  11:52 
p.  m. ;  last  car  from  Arcade  depot  10  First  street  12 :22 
a.  m. ;  last  car  leaves  Third  and  Spring  streets  for  First 
and  Virgil  12:30  a.  m. 

Boyle  Heights  Line  (Green  Cars). — Leave  Evergreen 
Cemetery  via  Fourth,  Hollenbeck  Park,  Third,  Hill,  Six- 
teenth, Bush,  Hoover,  Twenty-fourth,  Normandie  and  W. 
Adams.  First  car  Evergreen  Cemetery  to  W.  Adams 
street  6  a.  m. ;  first  car  W.  Adams  to  Boyle  Heights  6  -.oy 
a.  m. ;  last  car  Evergreen  Cemetery  to  W.  Adams  street 
12:08  a.  m. ;  last  car  W.  Adams  street  to  Boyle  Heights 
11:18  p.  m. ;  last  car  from  Third  and  Spring  streets  for 
Boyle  Heights  11  :^y  p.  m. ;  last  car  from  Third  and  Spring 
streets  to  W.  Adams  12  :30  a.  m. 

San  Pedro  Line  connects  with  yellow  cars  at  University 
Station.  Cars  pass  Rosecrans,  Gardena,  Moneta  and  Avery 
en  route  to  San  Pedro. 

LAST   AND    FIRST    CARS. 

The  following  last  and  first  cars  leave  at  time  given 
below.  On  all  other  lines  it  will  be  found  under  its  par- 
ticular head : 

Last  car  for  Pasadena  from  Fourth  and  Spring  streets 
at  12:15  a.  m. ;  first  car  6  a.  m. 

Last  car  for  San  Gabriel  and  Alhambra  from  Fourth 
and  Spring  streets  11  :30  p.  m. ;  first  car  6:30  a.  m. 

Last  car  for  Mt.  Lowe  from  Fourtli  and  Spring  streets 
at  3  :30  p.  m. ;  first  car  8  a.  m. 


190 

Last  car  for  Long  Beach  from  Ninth  and  Main  11:45 
p.  m. ;  first  car  6  a.  m. 

Last  car  from  Long  Beach,  12  midnight. 

Last  car  for  Hollywood  from  326  W.  Fourth  street, 
12:45  3-  iTi- ;  first  car  6:45  a.  m. 

Last  car  for  Colegrove  from  326  W.  Fourth  street,  12:15 
a.  m. ;  first  car  6:15  a.  m. 

Last  car  for  Santa  Monica  from  326  W.  Fourth  street 
11:35  P-  ™-;  first  car  6:35  a.  m. 

Last  car  for  Redondo  from  Second  and  Spring  streets 
II  :30  p.  m. ;  first  car  8 :30  a.  m. 

Cemeteries. — Los  Angeles  has  several  cemeteries.  The 
old  Odd  Fellows'  Cemetery,  situated  near  the  High  School 
building  on  California  street,  and  the  Old  Calvary  (Catho- 
lic) Cemetery  on  Buena  Vista  street,  have  long  since  been 
condemned  as  places  of  burial,  and  are  fast  going  to  ruin 
and  decay.  Those  which  are  at  present  used  are  the  Jewish, 
located  on  Fernando  street ;  Evergreen,  on  First  street,  in 
Boyle  Heights ;  Rosedale,  on  Washington  street,  in  the 
suburb  of  Rosedale,  and  the  Odd  Fellows  and  New  Cal- 
vary, situated  on  the  road  which  leads  to  Downey  and  Whit- 
tier.  Of  these.  Evergreen  and  Rosedale  are  most  beautiful 
as  cemeteries,  having  grass  plots,  shrubs  and  trees  and  nice 
walks  and  drives ;  the  two  others  have  not  been  laid  out 
nearly  so  long  and  are  not  as  yet  in  such  an  admirable 
state  as  regards  the  condition  of  the  grounds  and  surround- 
ings. Evergreen  may  be  reached  either  by  the  Traction  or 
Boyle  Heights  cars,  and  Rosedale  by  the  Washington  and 
Santa  Monica  street  cars. 

Oil  Wells. — There  is  a  vast  difference  between  the  oil 
produced  in  California  and  that  of  the  Eastern  States.  Cal- 
ifornia oil,  as  a  rule,  is  very  heavy,  has  an  asphalt  base. 
and  is  almost  exclusively  for  fuel ;  while  the  eastern  oil 
is  light,  has  a  paraffine  base,  and  is  used  principally  as  an 


illuminant,  although  it  may  be  used  for  many  and  various 
purposes. 

For  years  the  business  men,  manufacturers  and  investors 
have  been  puzzling  over  the  problem  of  the  reduction  of 
the  price  of  fuel  in  Los  Angeles,  that  being  the  only  efficient 
drawback  to  the  establishment  of  foundries,  factories  and 
manufacturing  establishments  generally  on  a  large  scale 
throughout  the  city.  It  would  now  appear  that  the  dis- 
covery and  development  of  petroleum  in  quantities  in  Los 
Angeles  county  has  well-nigh  proved  its  solution.  A  total 
of  1,500  wells  have  been  drilled  in  the  city  of  Los  Ange- 
les, and  the  total  estimated  output  for  the  State  for  1900  is 
4,500,000  barrels,  nearly  one-third  of  it  being  produced 
in  Los  Angeles  county. 

The  city  oil  fields  are  situated  within  a  radius  of  two 
miles  from  its  center,  and  are  divided  by  breaks  into  what 
are  termed  the  east,  central,  and  west  fields.  The  depth 
of  the  wells  varies  from  250  to  1,400  feet,  and  the  cost  is 
increased  with  the  depth.  Some  wells  cost  only  about  $800 
or  $1,000,  while  others  show  an  expenditure  of  from  $4,500 
to  $5,000.  It  is  safe  to  say  that  a  fair  average  cost  of  a 
first-class  well  in  the  city  would  not  be  far  from  $2,500. 

The  yield  is  something  at  which  it  is  extremely  difficult 
to  arrive  with  any  degree  of  certainty.  A  well  may  start 
in  with  fifty  or  sixty  barrels  a  day,  but  as  soon  as  the 
"head"  is  "pumped  off"  fall  to  twenty  or  twenty-five  bar- 
rels, and  may  finally  settle  down  to  a  ten  or  fifteen-barrel 
well,  which  is  considered  very  good. 

The  petroleum  industry  of  Los  Angeles  has  been  and 
probably  will  continue  to  be  of  the  greatest  importance.  It 
has  brought  nearly  six  millions  of  dollars  into  the  circula- 
tion of  the  city  from  the  sale  of  oil  alone,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  business  which  has  been  stimulated  and  produced 
solely  through  its  influence.    More  than  300  men  are  direct- 


1 92 

ly  employed  at  an  average  daily  wage  of  $3.00,  and  the 
number  of  persons  who  are  indirectly  aflfectcd  and  who 
procure  employment  in  Los  Angeles  through  the  influence 
of  the  petroleum  industry,  in  the  railway  business,  factories 
foundries,  etc.,  is  certainly  very  large,  as  there  is  a  known 
monthly  consumption  of  oil  in  the  city  of  Los  Angeles  of 
nearly  100,000  barrels. 

TJie  Southern  California  Academy  of  Sciences  was  or- 
ganized in  1891  and  numbers  at  the  present  time  (1903) 
about  250  members.  On  the  first  Monday  evenings  of  each 
month  general  meetings  are  held,  free  to  the  public,  at  which 
popular  lectures  on  scientific  subjects  are  given,  as  free  from 
technical  treatment  as  the  nature  of  the  subjects  will  per- 
mit. The  academy  has  four  working  sections.  Astronomical, 
Geological,  Biographical,  and  Botanical,  the  members  of 
which  also  meet  once  a  month  on  stated  evenings  and  read 
papers  which  are  the  outcome  of  scientific  research.  Syn- 
opses of  the  lectures  and  papers  read  at  the  various  meet- 
ings are  published  in  the  Monthly  Bulletin.  The  meetings 
are  held  at  the  Women's  Club  House  on  Figueroa 
street,  Los  Angeles.  Prof.  B.  R.  Baumgardt,  116  North 
Broadway,  has  been  the  secretary  since  1893. 

A  City  of  Beautiful  Homes. — The  chief  attraction  of  Los 
Angeles  to  new  arrivals,  lies  in  its  beautiful  homes.  The 
rare  beauty  of  the  grounds  surrounding  the  attractive  homes 
of  Los  Angeles,  Pasadena  and  other  Los  Angeles  county 
cities,  is  a  constant  theme  of  admiration  on  the  part  of 
Eastern  visitors.  Other  cities  can  show  grander  business 
blocks,  but  when  it  comes  to  gardens,  Los  Angeles  is  facile 
j>rinceps.  The  mildness  of  the  climate  permits  the  most 
delicate  plants  and  trees  to  flourish  in  the  open  air  all 
through  the  winter.  At  Christmas  may  be  seen  hedges, 
of  calla  lilies,  geranium  bushes  ten  feet  and  more  in  height, 
and  heliotrope  covering  the  side  of  a  house,  while  the  jas- 


193 

amine,  tuberose  and  orange  make  the  air  hea\^  with  their 
delicious  perfume.  Giant  bananas  wave  their  graceful  leaves 
in  the  gentle  breeze,  and  often  ripen  their  fruit ;  the  fan  and 
date  palm  grow  to  mammoth  proportions,  and  roses  of  a 
thousand  varieties  run  riot.  A  majority  of  the  residences 
stand  in  spacious  grounds,  a  lot  of  50x150  feet  long  being 
the  smallest  occupied  by  a  house  of  an}'  pretension,  even- 
within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  business  streets.  Many  have 
from  one  to  five  acres  of  ground,  all  in  a  high  state  of  cul- 


tivation,  with  well  kept,  verdant  lawns,  upon  which  the 
fig,  orange  and  palm  cast  a  grate'ful  shade.  Along  the  sides 
of  the  streets  shade  trees  are  also  the  rule,  the  favorite 
varieties  being  the  graceful  pepper  which  grows  to  a  great 
size,  the  eucalyptus,  and  the  grevilla. 

The  most  universal  material  for  residences  in  Southern 
California  is  wood — pine  and  redwood,  the  latter  being 
used  altogether  for  outside  and  largely  for  inside  finish. 
This  material,  while  amply  sufficient  for  the  climate,  lends 
itself  to  graceful  decoration  undreamed  of  by  those  who 
have  been  accustomed  to  houses  of  brick  or  stone. 


194 

A  great  variety  of  arcliitccture  is  lOniul  among  tlie  resi- 
dences of  Los  Angeles.  'Ilic  picturesque  and  comfortable 
early  Mission  style  of  architecture,  which  should  have  been 
more  extensively  adopted  long  ago  by  the  American  sett- 
lers, is  at  length  coming  into  vogue.  Some  of  the  more  pre- 
tentious of  these  residences,  in  the  Mission  style  of  archi- 
tecture, have  spacious  tiled  court-yards,  covered  with  glass, 
in  which  fountains  plash,  flowers  bloom  and  birds  warble. 

It  costs  much  less  to  build  in  Southern  California  now 
than  it  did  in  the  boom  days.  Again,  a  $10,000  residence 
here  is  as  good  as  a  $20,000  residence  in  the  East. 

One  of  the  most  attractive  features  about  a  home  in  this 
season  is  the  wonderful  rapidity  with  which  vegetation  of 
all  kinds  grows,  so  that  instead  of  having  to  wait  years  for 
a  new  residence  to  assume  a  settled  and  homelike  appear- 
ance, the  owner  only  has  to  wait  a  few  months  until  his 
house  is  surrounded  with  thrifty  plants  and  climbing  vines, 
while  even  some  trees,  as  in  the  case  of  the  eucalpytus, 
grow  up  to  a  responsible  size  from  the  seed  within  a  j'ear, 
and  can  be  planted  around  the  lot  while  less  rapidly  grow- 
ing trees  are  attaining  size,  thus  obviating  the  bare,  hard 
appearance  which  attaches  to  new  residences  in  less  fa- 
vored climates,  however  beautiful,  architecturally,  the 
buildings  may  be. 

The  population  of  Los  Angeles  is  cosmopolitan.  During 
the  past  ten  years  it  has  received  accessions  to  its  population 
from  every  State  in  the  Union,  and  from  almost  every 
countiy  in  the  world.  For  instance,  a  statement  published 
in  the  Los  Angeles  Times  showed  that,  five  years  ago,  of 
the  53,413  voters  on  the  great  register  of  Los  Angeles 
county,  only  5,244,  or  less  than  10  per  cent.,  were  natives 
of  California.  There  were  5,048  from  New  York  State, 
4,530  from  Ohio  4,106  from  Illinois,  3,070  from  Pennsylva- 
nia. 2,237  from  Iowa,  2,179  from  Missouri,  ^nd  the  balance 


195 

from  43  other  States  and  Territories,  including  Hawaii.  Of 
I  he  foreign  born  voters,  numbering  10,430,  or  nearly  20 
per  cent,  of  the  total,  2,446  were  from  Germany,  1,747  from 
England,  1,581  from  British  America,  1,576  from  Ireland, 
and  the  balance  from  27  other  foreign  countries.  Papers  are 
published  in  the  German,  French,  Spanish,  Italian,  Basque 
and  Chinese  languages.  There  are  several  thousand  Chi- 
nese in  and  around  Los  Angeles,  who  are  engaged  in  rais- 
ing vegetables,  or  employed  in  housework.  They  have  a 
residence  section  of  their  own,  adjoining  the  old  Plaza,  in 
the  geographical  center  of  the  city. 

"Seeing  Los  Angeles." — For  the  benefit  of  those  whose 
time  and  opportunities  are  limited  the  Los  Angeles  Rail- 
way Company  has  arranged  for  two  trips  a  day  on  special 
cars,  leaving  the  main  office  daily  at  10  a.  m.,  and  2  p.  m. 

"Seeing  Los  A)igeles"  Cars  provide  a  quick  but  thorough 
means  of  gaining  specific  knowledge  of  the  city  and  its 
surroundings.  The  route  is  arranged  to  avoid  tiresome 
repetition,  and  is  so  timed  that  fatigue  does  not  result. 
One  by  one  places  of  interest  are  pointed  out  with  terse, 
comprehensive  historical  data,  by  guides  who  are  especially 
skilled  and  abundantly  informed. 

These  cars  wind  throughout  the  business  thoroughfares, 
the  residence  streets  and  many  interesting  portions  of  the 
Los  Angeles  of  to-day  and  the  Sonoratown  of  a  century 
and  a  half  ago.  From  these  cars  are  seen  buildings 
over  120  years  old,  standing  side  by  side  with  the  newer  de- 
velopment of  the  present. 

These  trips  are  conducted  upon  the  highest  plane  of  per- 
fect transportation,  affording  a  divertisement  which  appeals 
to  intelligent  travelers  from  ail  parts  of  the  world.  Object- 
-ionable  features  are  entirely  eliminated  from  the  service. 


p 


J- 


An  Ostrich  and  Her  Nest  of  Eggs. 


CHAPTER  X. 

THE   CAWSTON    OSTRICH    FARM. 

South  Pasadena,  reached  on  Main  Line  of  Pasadena 
Electric  Cars,  fare  from  Los  Angeles  lo  cents,  from  Pasa- 
dena 5  cents.  Charge  for  admission  25  cents.  Open  all 
the  year  round. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  sights  in  the  world. 
There  are  now  upwards  of  two  hundred  ostriches,  large 
and  small,  at  the  farm.  Mr.  Edwin  Cawston,  the  pro- 
prietor, thus  tells  the  story  of  his  experiences  in  bringing 
the  birds  to  their  American  home : 

"Among  the  many  varied  investments  I  have  made  none 
gave  me  such  personal  inconvenience  and  anxiety  as  that  of 
some  six  thousand  dollars  in  ostriches  at  their  Natal  colony 
in  South  Africa.  Various  shipments  of  ostriches  had  taken 
place  from  Africa  to  Australia  and  South  America;  accounts 
of  these  induced  me  to  invest  what  spare  funds  I  had  at  the 
time  in  this  class  of  biped  for  export  to  the  United  States. 
for  I  diagnosed  that  the  climate  of  California  would  be  quite 
well  adapted  for  tlie  cultivation  of  the  Strnthio  Camelus,  or 
true  African  ostricli.  Taking  a  steamer  from  London  I  ar- 
rived at  Durban  in  the  colonj^  of  Natal;  here  I  sought  the 
society  of  some  ostrich  farmers  for  the  purpose  of  purchas- 
ing sufficient  ostriches  for  a  shipment  to  the  United  States. 

"After  considerable  bartering  I  obtained  a  herd  of  fifty- 
two  ostriches  and  then  turned  my  attention  to  the  posses- 
sion of  a  suitable  conveyance  for  these  creatures  from  Dur- 
ban to  Galveston.  Texas.  I  chartered  a  sailing  vessel,  the 
Swedish  barque.  Krona.  some  SOO  tons  burden.  This  vessel 
had  to  be  fitted  for  the  reception  of  the  ostriches;  I  first  or- 
dered conveyed  into  the  hold  some  hundred  tons  of  sand, 
upon  which  the  ostriches  could  stand,  perhaps  perpetrating 
upon  their  imaginations  the  innocent  deception  that  they 
still  walked  the  sands  of  their  native  desert.  Fifty-two  pens 
were  erected,  twentj^-six  on  either  side  of  the  ship;  these 
were  about  five  feet  higli  and  four  feet  wide;  each  pen  was 
carefully  padded  so  that  the  ostriches  in  falling  over,  would 
not  suffer  injury:  the  entire  outfit  was  carefully  whitewashed. 
Between  the  two  rows  of  pens  a  large  space  was  left  covered 
with  sand,  upon  which  to  exercise  the  ostriches  durin.g  the 
voyage.  Three  hundred  pounds  of  carbolic  powder  was  taken 
on  board  for  the  purpose  of  purifying  the  surroundings  of  the 


ic>8 

liiiils,  for  11h:s(!  creatures,  like  all  wild  animals,  are  haunted 
liy  certain  tribes  of  insects. 

••For  provision  I  had  placed  in  the  hold  four  tons  of  corn, 
two  thousand  cabbages,  forty  sacks  of  sweet  potatoes,  large 
Mihintiiies  of  miscellaneous  vegetables,  such  as  carrots,  beets, 
turnips,  and  lastly,  a  ton  of  pumpkins,  although  these  last 
were  found  subsequently  absolutely  useless  for  the  purpose 
intended.  The  ship  chartered,  the  pens  built,  the  food  stored, 
we  were  ready  for  the  ostriches;  each  was  blind-folded  and 
duly  driven  into  crates  and  landed  in  the  hold  one  by  one; 
soon  after  we  cast  anchor  and  started  upon  our  monotonous 
voyir^ge  across  the  restless  Atlantic. 

■'Our  fiist  disaster  occurred  after  leaving  the  Cape.  So 
sti-ong  1jI<w  the  gale  and  so  violent  the  motion  of  the  ves- 
sel that  three  of  the  ostriches  either  from  terror  or  laying 
upon  their  long  necks  as  they  fell  to  the  ground  departed 
this  life  and  were  given  a  sailor's  burial.  Some  of  the  os- 
triches refused  to  eat  as  soon  as  they  found  themselves  on 
the  water;  we  were  therefore  compelled  to  force  food  down 
their  gullets,  nolens  volens;  by  this  drastic  treatment  we 
eventually  reconciled  them  to  their  lot.  One  unfortunate  os- 
trich became  afflicted  with  an  unnatural  appetite;  instead  of 
refusing  everything  offered  to  him,  as  was  the  habit  of  some 
of  nis  companions,  he  devoured  all  he  could  reach;  a  sack  of 
potatoes  left  beside  his  pen  by  a  careless  attendant  vanished 
in  the  gloaming;  the  next  day  his  funeral  was  held.  In- 
dulgence in  his  case  had  proved  more  dangerous  than  ab- 
stinence. 

'•Our  next  stopping  place  was  the  Barbadoes,  where  we 
(jVjtained  another  supply  of  fresh  vegetables,  consisting  of 
green  sugar  cane,  sweet  potatoes,  beets  and  corn;  from  this 
place  to  Galveston  land  was  visible  all  the  time;  there,  after 
three  months'  solitary  sail  with  our  peculiar  cargo,  the  jour- 
ney was  ended.  Between  Saint  ITelena  and  the  Barbadoes 
three  more  ostriches  followed  the  example  of  their  friends 
who  perished  in  the  gale  at  the  Cape;  they  were  all  found 
dead  with  their  necks  imder  their  bodies.  With  forty-five 
energetic,  full -sized  African  ostriches  we  entered  the  port  of 
Galveston.  While  transferring  the  creatures  from  the  hold 
of  the  vessel  to  dry  land  one  more  ostrich  died,  but  whether 
from  extreme  joy  at  once  more  beholding  terra  firma  or  pure 
home-sickness  none  of  us  were  able  to  tell.  Ver>'  probably  it 
was  so  frightened  that  its  heart  was  affected.  With  the  re- 
maining forty-four  ostriches,  therefore.  I  requisitioned  two 
railway  cars  and  started  across  the  deserts  from  Galveston. 
Texas,  to  Los  Angeles,  California. 

•'The  present  .\merican  ostrich  population  is  the  descend- 
ant of  those  forty-four  compulsory  emigrants.  Soon  after 
iTiy  voyage  with  the  birds  the  Natal  government  imposed  an 
almost  prohibitive  duty  of  five  hundred  dollars  per  ostrich 
upon  all  birds  taken  from  the  land.  I  have  subsequently, 
however,  at  groat  expense,  obtained  some  young  wild  os- 
triches from  the  Nubian  desert,  many  leagues  away  from 
tlie  Natal  colony  and  far  from  the  power  of  its  legal  enact- 
ments.    These  are  here  now  at  this  Pasadena  ostrich  farm." 


lyy 

]\Iore  errors  have  probably  been  written  about  ostriches 
than  about  any  other  living  thing.  Since  Mr.  Cawston  has 
established  this  ostrich  farm  he  has  had  an  opportunity  to 
study  the  habits  of  these  strange  birds  and  to  find  out 
what  is  really  true  concerning  them.  It  has  been  said  that 
an  ostrich  lays  her  eggs  in  the  sand  and  leaves  them  there 
for  the  sun  to  hatch,  but  this  is  distinctly  false. 

Ostriches  pair  at  the  age  of  four  years,  when  they  are 
worth  $500  a  pair.  At  that  age  they  commence  laying.  The 
female  bird  scoops  out  a  hole  in  the  sand  in  which  she  lays 
from  twelve  to  fifteen  eggs,  after  which  she  sits  on  them 
with  great  regularity,  being  relieved  at  night  by  the  male, 
who  takes  her  place  and  sits  until  9  a.  m.,  and  also  an 
hour  at  noon,  when  the  female  goes  in  search  of  food. 
The  habit  of  the  bird  to  scratch  a  little  sand  over  the  eggs 
to  protect  them  from  the  fierce  heat  has  probably  given  rise 
to  this  absurd  notion. 

The  male  is  exceedingly  ferocious  when  guarding  this 
precious  nest,  though  peaceable  at  other  times.  The  pe- 
culiarity of  their  mating  lies  in  the  singular  fact  that  when 
an  ostrich  finally  selects  a  mate,  and  he  is  very  particular 
in  his  choice,  he  cleaves  to  her  and  her  alone  as  long  as 
life  lasts — something  like  seventy  years.  This  connubial 
constancy  should  put  to  shame  many  marriages  made  by 
intelligent  men  and  women. 

But,  stranger  still,  another  marked  peculiarity  of  the 
ostrich  is  the  lack  of  parental  love  shown  their  offspring. 
When  a  young  ostrich  begins  his  interesting  career,  it  is 
without  the  protective  care  of  the  parent  bird.  He  is  the 
most  independent  young  creature  in  existence,  and  spends 
his  time  careering  up  and  down  the  grass  in  the  warm 
sunshine,  searching  always  for  something  to  satisfy  his 
everlasting  appetite.  Incubators  are  employed  in  rearing 
the  young  birds,  as  well  as  the  primitive  mode  of  a  nest 


scooped  out  of  the  ground.  The  young  chicks  arc  fed  on 
green  alfalfa. 

The  average  increase  to  the  stock  each  year  is  between 
fifteen  and  twenty  ostriches  to  a  pair.  Some  have  been 
known  to  produce  as  many  as  thirty-seven  in  a  year. 

From  an  egg  weighing  three  pounds  to  a  bird  weighing 
three  hundred  pounds,  standing  eight  feet  upon  his  four 
toes  (the  African  ostrich  has  two  toes  only),  and  reaching 


the  mature  age  of  seventy  years,  is  a  long  transition ;  yet 
that  is  the  average  size  and  age  of  the  ostrich.  They 
are  about  the  size  of  frying  chicken  when  hatched,  and 
grow  at  the  rate  of  one  foot  a  month.  It  is  a  wonderful 
sight  to  watch  these  ungainly  baby  ostriches  tumble  awk- 
ardly  out  of  their  shells.  They  subsist  on  alfalfa,  and 
later  come  corn  and  sugar  beets,  with  oranges  by  the 
wagon  load  for  dessert.  A  full  grown  bird  will  eat  from 
nine  to  thirty-two  oranges  at  a  meal,  swallowing  them 
whole  and  as  fast  as  they  are  tossed  to  him.  What  a 
wanton  waste  of  the  delectable  fruit !   There  are  many  small 


boys  in  colder  climes  who  would  not  object  to  changing 
places  with  the  California  ostrich  when  dessert  is  brought 
on.  I  presume  the  ostrich  took  kindly  to  this  American 
innovation,  for  desserts  must  have  been  rare  on  the  African 
veldts ! 

Their  sight  is  very  keen,  and  they  are  the  fastest  runners 
among  living  things,  though  their  speed  is  not  sixty  miles 
an  hour,  as  has  been  asserted.  Twenty-five  miles  is  their 
usual  rate,  though  there  are  instances  on  record  of  slightly 
greater  rapidity. 


-"^^ 


They  do  not  lie  down  and  put  their  heads  out  of  sight, 
thinking  that  they  are  thus  hiding  their  whole  bodies,  as 
has  often  been  stated,  but  they  often  do  lie  flat  on  the 
ground,  when  it  is  very  difficult  to  see  them  at  a  long 
distance. 

Their  legs  are  very  strong,  and  a  blow  from  one  of  them 
is  able  to  kill  a  man.  As  the  bird  strikes  at  a  height  of 
three  feet  from  the  ground,  it  is  afraid  of  small  dogs,  which 
are  out  of  the  reach  of  its  blow. 

The  eggs  weigh  three  pounds  each,  and  are  as  good  in 
taste  as  the  egg  of  a  hen,  to  thirty  of  which  one  ostrich 


egg  is  c(|ual.  Tlioiigli  tlic  Ijird  wears  one  thousand  feathers, 
its  leg,  neck,  thighs  and  other  portions  of  its  body  are  bare. 

Perhaps  the  most  interesting  of  all  the  sights  on  the 
ostrich  farm  is  that  of  "plucking,"  or  rather  removing,  the 
plumes  that  go  to  adorn  my  lady's  hat,  to  fashion  those 
lovely  feather  boas  and  fans  that  are  the  admiration  of  the 
fair  sex.  The  first  crop  of  feathers  is  secured  when  the 
ostrich  is  eight  months  old,  and  from  then  on  every  nine 
months,  and  the  feathers  are  worth  about  $30  at  each 
plucking,  though  prices  vary  greatly.  The  process  of  re- 
moving the  plumes  is  not  at  all  like  the  proverbial  task  of 
"picking  the  old  gray  goose."  This  novel  sight  draws 
tlirongs  of  visitors,  who  are  always  notified  through  the 
papers  of  the  important  event. 

The  ungainly  birds,  taller  than  a  man,  stronger  than  a 
horse  and  weighing  as  high  as  350  pounds,  are  not  to  be 
coerced  into  parting  with  their  plumes ;  strategy  is  em- 
ployed, and  the  process  made  as  pleasant  as  possible.  The 
birds,  not  in  the  best  of  humor  at  this  time,  are  coaxed 
into  a  corner,  for  they  can  easily  strike  a  blow  that  will 
kill  a  man.  Then  a  hood  or  bag  is  drawn  over  the  big  bird's 
cpieer.  naked  little  liead,  and  the  "picking"  begins.  One 
man  liolds  the  bird,  while  another  carefully  clips  away  the 
long,  white,  black  or  gray  plumes  that  are  so  highly  prized 
in  the  millinery  world,  taking  care  to  leave  an  inch  or  so 
of  quill,  which  is  easily  removed  after  the  juices  and 
vitality  have  been  absorbed  by  the  new  growth.  The  small 
tluffy  feathers,  ordinarily  called  "tips."  are  really  plucked. 
The  entire  process  is  without  the  slightest  degree  of  pain 
to  the  ostriches,  and  those  who  harbor  conscientious  scru- 
ples in  regard  to  wearing  the  plumage  of  birds  that  have 
been  slain  to  gratify  the  vanity  of  the  human  race,  need 
have  no  compunctiiMis  in  adorning  themselves  with  the 
ostrich  plumes. 


The  Desperate  Fray  of  McKinley  and  Bryan. 


204 

At  tlic  Pasadena  Ostrich  Farm  the  plumes  are  made  up 
and  sold  to  visitors  on  the  spot,  hence  it  is  not  an  out-of- 
the-way  hint  to  suggest  that  those  who  desire  to  purchase 
ostrich  plumes  go  prepared  to  do  so  when  they  make  their 
visit. 

Though  generally  peaceable,  there  are  times  when  the 
male  birds  are  exceedingly  quarrelsome,  and  consequently 
dangerous.  Some  years  ago  (during  the  McKinley-Bryan 
campaign)  the  inhabitants  of  Southern  California  were 
horrified  to  read  in  their  morning  paper  the  startling  head- 
line "McKinley  kills  Bryan !"  Further  reading  revealed 
the  fact  that  it  was  two  male  birds  at  the  Ostrich  Farm 
that  had  gotten  into  a  dispute,  with  the  fatal  result  named. 
Tt  is  the  whim  of  the  proprietor  to  name  the  principal 
birds  after  American  and  English  notables,  principal  of 
which  are  McKinley,  Washington,  King  Edward  and  Lord 
Roberts. 


Going  for  Supplies  for  the  Mines 


CHAPTER  XL 


THE   MOUNT   LOWE   RAILWAY. 


The  Mount  Lowe  Railway  occupies  the  enviable  position 
of  being  pronounced  the  most  wonderful  feat  of  engineer- 
ing skill  in  the  construction  of  railroads,  and  affords  the 
grandest  and  most  thrilling  scenery  and  views  obtainable 
in  the  world.  In  making  this  trip,  one  ascends  from  a  val- 
ley of  a  tropical  climate,  with  its  characteristic  fruits 
and  flowers,  and  enters  the  higher  zone  where  all  trace  of 
these  are  lost,  and  in  their  place  we  find  the  stalwart  pines 
of  northern  countries.  To  accomplish  all  this  in  the  short 
space  of  a  few  hours  and  in  comfort  and  luxury,  surely  is 
a  trip  that  no  one  can  afford  to  miss.  Starting  from  Los 
Angeles  we  go  through  the  beautiful  "San  Gabriel  Valley" 
with  its  many  attractive  homes  and  scenes,  over  the  "Ar- 
royo Seco,"  where  a  grand  view  of  Pasadena  in  the  dis- 
tance is  obtained,  and  still  further  on  are  the  beautiful 
Sierra  Madre  Mountains.  Passing  by  the  Ostrich  Farm, 
which  contains  many  full  grown  birds  and  chicks,  and  which 
is  always  a  resort  for  tourists,  we  pass  through  the  beau- 
tiful   city   of   Pasadena,    with    its    many   handsome   homes 


■AikI"' 


%^%itn 


'  V'-  J:- 


207 

and  gardens,  on  to  Altadena,  where  the  Mount  Lowe  car 
is  in  waiting,  and  we  are  already  climbing  the  foothills. 
At  Rubio  Canyon,  where  we  meet  the  incline  car,  we  have 
ascended  2,100  feet  in  our  ride  from  Los  Angeles.  To 
stand  at  the  foot  of  the  "incline"  and  look  up  to  the  next 
part  of  our  trip  is  a  thrilling  experience  and  not  soon 
forgotten. 

The  grades  of  this  incline  are  60,  62,  58  and  48  per  cent., 
and  in  a  distance  of  3,000  feet  we  ascend  an  altitude  of 
1,300  feet.  It  is  the  most  wonderful  railway  in  the  world, 
and  one  of  the  many  attractive  features  is  the  steepest 
bridge  ever  built,  being  200  feet  in  length  and  the  upper 
end  being  120  feet  higher  than  the  lower  end.  The  road 
is  made  absolutely  safe  by  ample  safety  devices,  and  affords 
many  thrilling  experiences. 

This  great  product  of  science  and  genius,  seems  at  first 
an  impossible  fact,  but  as  we  ascend  and  seemingly  leave 
the  earth  a  broader  and  better  view  of  the  valley,  the 
cities  and  surrounding  country  is  obtained,  we  marvel  at 
the  achievements  of  science  and  the  glorious  scenes  about 
us.  We  step  out  of  the  car  upon  Echo  Mountain,  3,500 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  behold  a  perfect  panorama  of  land 
and  ocean.  At  this  point  is  situated  the  Echo  Mountain 
Chalet,  commanding  such  a  view  of  the  Incline  Railway  as 
to  observe  all  of  the  different  grades;  the  Casino,  Lowe 
Observatory,  presided  over  by  Prof.  Edgar  L.  Larkin.  This 
observatory  contains  one  of  the  largest  and  most  powerful 
telescopes  in  the  world,  weighing  three  and  one—half  tons, 
and  being  twenty-two  feet  in  length  and  sixteen  inches  in 
diameter.  In  the  evening  the  great  World's  Fair  search- 
light bursts  forth  casting  its  rays  upon  the  distant  cities, 
revealing  some  special  object,  then  changing  its  course 
toward  the  mountains,  making  as  light  as  day  the  Great 
Circular    Bridge    and    other    points    of    interest    along   the 


20« 

railway,  tlicn  down  into  the  bottomless  pits  of  tiie  can- 
yons. These  features  furnish  great  amusement  and  pleas- 
ure. After  we  have  searched  out  some  of  the  points  of 
interest  we  then  visit  the  observatory.  Here,  also,  is 
obtained  a  commanding  view  of  the  San  Gabriel,  La  Can- 
yada  and  the  San  Fernando  valleys;  Altadena,  Pasadena, 
Los  Angeles,  the  Pacific  Ocean,  Santa  Catalina,  San  Cle- 
mente,  Santa  Barbara  and  the  San  Nicholas  Islands.  It 
is  an  interesting  object  to  watch  the  sun  set  in  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  and  observe  the  shades  of  night  settle  over  the 
beautiful  San  Gabriel  Valley,  far  below,  and  as  the  dark- 
ness of  the  night  approaches,  instantly  there  appears  in  the 
distance  a  multitude  of  sparkling  jewels  —  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  realize  that  they  are  the  electric  lights  of  the  cities 
of  Los  Angeles,  Pasadena  and  Santa  Monica,  some  thirty 
miles  and  more  away. 

From  Echo  Mountain  to  Alpine  Tavern  one  travels  over 
the  grandest  mountain  scenery  in  the  world.  Constantly 
ascending  higher  and  higher,  winding  around  the  edges  of 
beautiful  canyons,  looking  down  their  steep  and  precipitous 
sides,  observing  still  another  canyon  just  beyond  us,  and 
soon  coming  to  a  point  which  a  few  minutes  previous  was 
directly  beneath  us,  revealing  many  loops  of  the  winding 
road.  Soon  we  are  upon  the  Great  Circular  Bridge,  which 
strands  a  beautiful  canyon,  making  a  circle  around  the  spur 
of  the  mountain.  Los  Flores  Canyon,  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
Millard  Canyon,  Live  Oak  Grove,  Gut  Heil  Loop,  Cir- 
cular Bridge,  Sunset  Point,  Granite  Gate,  Grand  Canyon, 
Alpine  Park  and  Mount  Lowe  Springs  are  beautiful  and  in- 
viting points  of  interest  which  are  seen  in  succession  after 
leaving  Echo  Mountain  en  route  to  Ye  Alpine  Tavern. 
Beautiful  scenes  of  sunrise  and  sunset  as  seen  in  the  moun- 
tains and  canyons  are  grand  beyond  description,  and  must 
be  seen  to  be  thoroughly  appreciated. 


209 

We  reach  Alpine  Tavern,  S,ooo  feet  above  sea  level,  the 
view  of  which  is  suddenly  thrust  before  us  as  we  round  the 
last  curve  of  this  winding  mountain  railway.  Ye  Alpine 
Tavern  is  the  starting  point  of  many  beautiful  and  exceed- 
ingly interesting  trips.  From  this  point  ponies  may  be  se- 
cured for  the  ascent  to  the  summit  of  Mount  Lowe,  along 
the  trail  which  affords  an  experience  in  mountaineering. 

Ye  Alpine  Tavern  is  situated  at  the  upper  terminus  of 
the  mountain  trolley  line,  5,000  feet  above  the  sea,  in  a  for- 
est of  mammoth  pines  and  oaks.  It  is  delightfully  located 
in  a  charming  and  picturesque  spot  at  the  head  of  Grand 
Canyon,  and  it  is  modeled  after  the  Swiss  style  of  archi- 
tecture, being  a  combination  of  granite  and  pine,  and  is  a 
first-class  hostelry  in  every  respect,  with  its  renowned 
social  hall,  which  contains  a  mammoth  fire-place.  From 
Ye  Alpine  Tavern  are  numerous  trails  which  take  one 
over  many  pleasant  trips  in  the  mountains,  affording  grand 
scenes  and  views  which  it  is  not  within  our  power  to  por- 
tray. 

There  are  a  number  of  tent  cottages  located  adjacent  to 
"The  Tavern'  for  the  benefit  of  those  desiring  to  live  out 
of  doors. 

The  cars  for  Mount  Lowe  leave  Los  Angeles  at  regular 
hours  from  Sixth  and  Main  streets. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

SANTA   CATALINA    ISLAND. 

Hardly  three  hours  and  a  half  from  Los  Angeles,  South- 
ern California,  is  Santa  Catalina,  an  island  twenty-two 
miles  long,  a  park  in  the  Pacific,  a  mountain  range  at  sea; 
a  bit  of  the  world  by  itself,  which  in  its  climate,  natural 
beauties  and  opportunities  for  sport  comes  as  near  per- 
fection as  one  can  find.  It  abounds  in  beautiful  and  lofty 
mountain,  deep  gorges,  stupendous  rock  cliffs  and  precipi- 
piccs.  Its  south  and  west  coast  has  the  surf  and  a  bracing 
climate;  its  north  and  east  is  a  region  of  calms,  little  bays 
with  grass-like  surfaces  reflecting  the  rocks  and  mountains. 

There  are  cottages,  shops,  hotels  and  boarding  houses, 
while  a  city  of  tents  affords  the  lovers  of  camping  out 
under  ideal  conditions  every  opportunity.  The  Metropole, 
the  principal  hotel,  up-to-date  in  every  respect,  is  situated 
directly  on  the  bay. 

Santa  Catalina  Island  is  connected  with  the  mainland 
by  the  daily  steamers  of  the  Wilmington  Transportation 
Company  from  San  Pedro,  and  is  reached  from  Los  An- 
geles by  both  the  Southern  Pacific  and  Salt  Lake  Rail- 
ways.. 

Climate. — Santa  Catalina  is  a  natural  sanitarium,  com- 
bining all  that  is  best  in  the  Madeira  Islands  and  the  fa- 
mous Riviera.  Even  in  mid-winter  the  days  are  mild,  frost 
being  unknown  in  many  of  the  valleys;  the  Island  is  then 
a  flower  garden.  It  has  valuable  sulphur  springs,  and  the 
opportunities  for  salt  baths  and  enjoying  the  remarkable 
varieties  of  climate  make  it  an  ideal  resort.  In  winter  the 
Metropole  is  visited  by  tourists  from  all  over  the  world. 


The  average  temperature  of  July  days  at  Avalon  is  65 
degrees.  In  August  the  highest  mean  temperature  ob- 
served at  six  in  the  morning  was  72  degrees,  the  highest 
at  noon  78  degrees,  the  lowest  69  degrees.  Water  tempera- 
ture at  noon  76  degrees.  Avalon,  while  on  the  water,  is 
very  dry.  The  relative  humidity  for  the  year  is  67  degrees, 
that  of  Asheville,  N.  C,  ^2  degrees,  Jacksonville,  Fla.,  70 
degrees,  Philadelphia,  70  degrees,  showing  a  remarkable 
dryness  over  these  places. 


Golf. — Santa  Catalina  Island  has,  in  Grand  Canyon, 
the  finest  links  on  the  Pacific  Slope,  and  experts  have  pro- 
nounced them  the  most  picturesque  in  America.  Here  the 
Santa  Catalina  Golf  Club  holds  forth,  extending  its  courte- 
sies to  visitors  at  its  well-equipped  club  house,  standing 
on  a  mesa  overlooking  the  links  which  wind  away  up  the 
beautiful  canyon  and  among  the  slopes  of  the  mountains. 
There  are  also  well-kept  tennis  courts  in  connection. 

Sximmcr  Camp  Life. — Santa  Catalina  Island  has  perfect 
sanitary  regulations,  the  whole  under  the  supervision  of  a 
resident  physician  and  health  officer.  There  are  exten- 
sive arrangements  for  the  convenience  of  campers.  Camp 
lots  front  on  hard  macadamizd  streets  and  are  supplied 
with  modern  flush  closets  connected  with  an  outfall  sewer 


'I'lic  streets  arc  cleaned  and  sprinkled  and  all  garbage  is 
iiinovid   from  the  premises  daily. 

I'lic  Wurld's  Record  for  Rod  and  Reel  Fishing. — Santa 
Catalina  Island  is  the  home  of  the  black  sea  bass,  the  king 
of  the  bass  tribe.  The  record  is  held  by  Mr.  Edward  Lle- 
wellyn, who  took,  with  rod  and  reel  and  21  thread  line, 
a  425-pound  black  sea  bass — a  catch  which  attracted  the  at- 
tention of  the  world  of  anglers. 

In  Scribner's  Magazine,  Chas.  Frederick  Holder,  describ- 
ing the  capture  of  one  of  these  fish,  says :  "Ten  feet  gained, 
and.  Whiz-zee !  as  many  more  are  lost.  In  it  comes  once 
more,  fighting  hard,  the  holder  of  the  rod  bending  this  way 
and  that,  trying  to  preserve  a  balance  and  that  tension 
which  would  prevent  a  sudden  break.  Now  the  fish  darts 
to  one  side  tearing  the  water  into  foam,  leaving  a  •heet  of 
silvery  bubbles,  and  swinging  the  boat  around  as  on  a 
pivot.  Now  it  is  at  the  surface — a  fleeting  vision  followed 
by  a  rush  that  carries  the  very  gunwale  under  water.  This, 
followed  by  a  sudden  slacking  of  the  line,  sends  despair 
to  the  heart ;  he  is  gone,  the  line  floats.  No,  whizz !  and 
he  is  away  again.  All  the  tricks  of  the  sturdy  black  bass 
this  giant  of  the  tribe  indulges  in,  except  the  mid-air  leaps. 


^^^g^^^^-^c"^  \>-^ 


'^^^^^rfe^M^ 


213 

which  gladden  the  heart  of  the  angler.  Quick  turns,  down- 
ward rushes,  powerful  blows,  mighty  runs,  this  gamey 
creature  makes,  fighting  inch  by  inch,  leaving  an  impression 
upon  the  mind  of  the  fisherman  that  is  not  soon  for- 
gotten." 

Some  of  the   famous  rod-and-reel  black-sea-bass  catches 
here  are  as  follows : 

Pounds. 

Mrs.  A.  W.  Barrett,  Los  Angeles  416 

F.  S.  Schenck,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y 384 

T.  S.  Manning,  Sierra  Madre,  Cal 370 

Col.  R.  A.  Eddy,  Pasadena  362 

F.  V.  Rider,  Pasadena  327 

Dr.  H.  H.  Pease,  Tucson,  Arizona  320 

Gail  Borden,  Los  Angeles 268 

N.  B.  Mead,  Swinwick,  Ct 256 

George  Only,  N.  Y 237 

N.  F.  Wilshire,  Los  Angeles 200 

C.  J.  M.  Beard,  N.  Y 200 

Dr.  H.  K.   Macomber,  Pasadena,  Cal 150 

Maj.  Chas.  Viele,  U.  S.  A 148 


A  Santa  Catalina  Wild  Goat. 


214 

The  Tozvn  of  Avalon,  with  its  picturesque  cottages  and 
homes  on  the  hill  sides,  is  built  on  a  beautiful  half-moon- 
shaped  bay,  with  fleets  of  boats  and  yachts  of  all  sizes 
moored  here  and  there. 

For  boating  and  batiiing  Catalina  Island  is  unexcelled. 
Its  perfect  climate  and  sanitation,  its  smooth  bays,  its  fa- 
cilities for  safe  boating  and  bathing  render  it  the  ideal 
place  for  ladies  and  children.  The  little  bays  are  crowded 
with  boats — fishing,  sailing,  launches,  yachts,  all  provided 
for  the  public  pleasure.  The  glass-bottomed  boats  are  es- 
pecial features. 

Glass  Aquarium  and  Zoological  Station. — A  remarkable 
display  is  made  in  glass  tanks  of  living  plants  and  animals 
of  Avalon  Bay.  This  exhibition  is  one  of  the  most  inter- 
esting features  of  the  island  and  furnishes  a  rare  opportu- 
nity for  the  study  of  marine  life. 

Marine  Gardens — Glass-Bottom  Boats. — The  beauties  of 
Santa  Catalina  are  given  their  due  by  the  eloquent  editor 
of  the  Parisian  journal  "Le  Figaro,"  jM.  Huret,  in  an  ar- 
ticle in  that  journal  under  date  of  October  29,  1903: 

"Floating  over  the  green  and  blue  water  in  the  glass- 
bottom  boats,  one  sees  the  goings  and  comings  of  aquatic 
life.  The  boatman  names  to  you  the  marine  plants  and 
the  fish,  and  tells  you  the  different  depths.  One  is  astoun- 
ded, one  questions,  one  exclaims.  Here  are  shell-encrusted 
rocks,  fish,  red,  green,  gold,  rig-zagging  leisureh'  among 
the  waving  foliage,  the  seaweed  gracefully  balancing  with 
the  tide;  on  the  clear  bottom  the  sea  throws  beautiful  re- 
flections; here  are  real  trees  with  long  branches  waving  as 
on  land  by  a  tempest ;  great  fish  of  all  shapes  appear  as 
in  an  artificial  aquarium,  the  sea  stars  (star  fish)  shine  in 
the  shadows  of  the  rocks;  then  more  luxuriant  foliage, 
with  branches  bearing  clusters  cf  fruit  resembling  olives. 
One   would   think   these  were   fertile  fields   suddenly  sub- 


215 

merged  by  a  tempest.  Leaning  over  the  transparencies  in 
the  bottom  of  the  boats,  the  people  go  into  ecstacies." 

Few  people  can  imagine  the  exquisite  delight  of  going 
out  in  a  gently  gliding  boat,  which  moves  as  by  magic,  so 
still  and  silent  is  the  machinery,  and  then  gazing  through 
the  glass  bottom  into  the  limpid  ocean  underworld.  Here 
are  the  secrets  of  the  sea.  Pure,  blue,  crystal,  clear  water, 
with  long  kelp  banners  fiying  to  and  fro,  over  gardens  full 
of  sea  grasses,  mosses,  plants,  shrubs,  trees  and  blooming 
flowers.  The  purple  ocean-pansy  and  the  sea  anemone, 
with  the  weeds  scattered  everywhere  in  rich  dark  browns 
and  glorious  ambers  drive  away  all  thoughts  of  this  being 
an  ocean.  You  imagine  there  must  be  caverns,  with  pearl- 
encrusted  portals  in  which  dwell  mermaids  and  mermen, 
sporting  in  brilliant  halls  where  columns  of  coral  and  pearl 
and  emerald  glisten  and  shine  in  the  crystal  clear,  which 
throbs  and  pulses  with  the  golden  sun's  rays  from  above. 

Then  the  fish — ah !  how  delightful  to  see  them  free  and 
unafraid  in  their  own  element.  Shoals  of  goldfish,  brilliant 
silvery  sardines,  barracouda,  yellowtail,  black  bass,  the  great 
June  fish  and  a  thousand  and  one  varieties  and  kinds  that 
dart  hither  and  thither  unaware  that  their  human  foe  is 
watching  their  every  movement  with  keenest  interest. 

The  Leaping  Tuna. — Santa  Catalina  Island  is  the  home 
of  the  famous  leaping  tuna;  it  is  caught  nowhere  else  with 
rod   and   reel. 

The  Hotel  Metropole  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Tuna 
Club,  of  150  members,  who  gather  here  from  all  over  the 
world  to  enjoy  this  exciting  sport.  Here  is  the  famous  tuna 
book,  containing  the  pictures  of  the  members  and  their 
catches,  and  here  is  exhibited  the  gold  medal  of  the  Tuna 
Club,  which  is  fished  for  each  season,  and  open  to  any 
angler.  He  who  holds  it  becomes  president  of  the  Tuna 
Club,  and  may  be  said  to  hold  the  world's  record  for  the 


2l6 

liardcst  fighting  game  fish  on  rod  and  reel,  one  tuna  being 
the  equal  to  two  or  three  tarpons,  in  point  of  strength. 
Some  of  the  rod-and-reel  leaping  tuna  records  are  as  fol- 
lows : 

Pounds. 

Col.  C.  P.  Morehouse,  Pasadena  (the  record) 251 

Mrs.  E.  N.  Dickinson  216 

John  E.  Stearns  197 

Chas.  F.  Holder,  Pasadena  183 

G.  G.  Eraser,  San  Francisco 176 

Adj.  Gen.  A.  W.  Barrett,  Los  Angeles,  Gal 164 

W.  F.  Loud,  Pomona,  Cal 156 

E.  L.  Doran,  Avalon,  Cal 153 

M.  C.  Annot,  Elmira,  New  York 148 

W.  J.  Landers,  San  Francisco  138 

]\Irs.  J.  Gardner,  Avalon,  Cal 136 

Fitch  Dewey,  Detroit,  Michigan 136 

Clifford  S.  Scudder,  St.  Louis,  Missouri  130 

J.  M.  Studebaker,  South  Bend,  Indiana 115 

This  fishing  is  at  once  sensational  and  exciting.  Boats 
are  towed  from  one  to  twenty  miles  before  the  fish  is 
brought  to  gaff,  and  from  thirty  minutes  to  seven  hours 
has  been  consumed  by  anglers  before  the  fish  is  landed. 
The  fish  are  taken  within  a  few  hundred  feet  of  the  shore  in 
smooth  waters,  making  the  sport  at  once  novel  and  delight- 
ful. 

The  rushes  of  this  fish  during  the  summer,  and  flight  of 
the  flying  fishes  in  attempting  to  escape  are  features  of  the 
locality.  The  tuna  strikes  on  the  rush,  bounding  into  the 
air  somtimes  ten  or  fifteen  feet — a  magnificent  spectacle; 
then  makes  a  rush  that  often  takes  six  hundred  feet  of  line 
before  the  brake  stops  it.  The  boat  is  dragged  through  the 
water  as  though  a  tug  was  towing  it,  the  fish  sometimes 


217 

fighting  for  hours  before  it  will  surrender.  When  a  school 
of  tuna  is  chasing  the  flying  fish,  numbers  may  be  seen  in 
the  air  at  the  same  time,  rising  like  silver  arrows,  and 
turning  gracefully,  catching  their  prey  literally  on  the 
wing,  and  sending  others  whirling  into  the  air.  No  greater 
game  awaits  the  skilled  wielder  of  the  rod  than  this  acro- 
bat of  the  sea. 

Yellozvtail. — The  game-fish  of  Catalina  Island  is  the  yel- 
low tail,  having  some  resemblance  to  the  salmon,  but  a 
much  harder  fighter,  ranging  from  17  to  80  pounds.  Four 
or  five  twenty  or  thirty  pounders,  taken  on  a  bass  rod  of 
twelve  or  fifteen  ounces,  generally  satisfies  the  angler  for 
the  day,  as  each  fish  will  fight  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes 
on  a  light  rod  before  coming  to  the  gaff. 

Some  of  the  best  catches  are  as  follows :  Col.  R.  F. 
Stocking,  48  pounds ;  F.  V.  Rider,  41  pounds ;  Geo.  Cheney, 
40  pounds ;  Col.  C.  P.  Morehouse,  40  pounds. 

Sea  Bass. — Ranging  next  to  the  yellowtail  as  a  game- 
fish  is  the  white  sea  bass,  which  attains  a  weight  of  eighty 
pounds,  the  average  catch  being  from  thirty  to  fifty  pounds. 
The  largest  sea  bass  caught  in  Avalon  Bay  was  taken  by 
a  lady.  This  fish,  which  weighed  eighty-four  pounds, 
towed  the  boat  back  and  forth  for  an  hour.  Some  of  the 
famous  catches  in  Avalon  Bay  are  as  folows:  May  i,  Mr. 
E.  Barnett,  of  Colorado  Springs,  Colo.,  thirteen  sea  bass ; 
50  pounds,  35  pounds,  40  pounds,  35  pounds,  40  pounds,  38 
pounds,  43  pounds,  42  pounds,  34  pounds,  65  pounds,  54 
poimds,  27  pounds,  65  pounds.  2\Iay  3,  J.  R.  Adams,  of  Chi- 
cago, five  sea  bass:  36  pounds,  37.  pounds,  23  pounds  43 
pounds,  2S  pounds,  70  pounds. — all  on  a  rod. 

Hunting. — On  the  south  end  of  the  island  is  the  hunting 
preserve,  the  home  of  the  Catalina  Island  Wild  Goat,  which 
affords  fine  sport,  enticing  the  sportsman  from  peak  to  peak, 
and  down  into  deep  canyons,  through  a  beautiful  and  pic- 


2l8 


turcsqiic  country.  About  10,000  acres  have  been  set  aside 
for  this  purpose.  The  sport  is  followed  on  horseback, 
horses  familiar  with  the  sport  and  country  being  available. 

Permission  may  be  obtained  and  guides  procured  by  ap- 
plication to  the  Superintendent  at  Avalon. 

Empire  Quarry. — About  twelve  miles  from  Avalon  arc 
quarries  of  a  fine  green,  serpentine  stone  which  is  used  for 
mantels,  bases,  switch-boards,  and  many  other  useful  and 
ornamental  purposes.  It  is  capable  of  being  turned  into 
the  most  delicate  vases  and  cups.  The  ancient  inhabitants 
used  this  stone  for  household  vessels  and  for  implements, 
and  its  durability  is  demonstrated  by  the  work  in  this 
material  which  the  Indians  left  on  the  Island,  possibly 
hundreds  of  years  ago,  and  which  are  being  continually 
discovered. 

The  varied  formation  of  the  island  affords  a  very  in- 
teresting study  to  the  geologist. 

The  botanist  will  also  find  that  some  very  interesting 
excursions  can  be  inade  to  the  various  canyons,  where  quite 
a  variety  of  ferns  are  to  be  found,  such  as  maiden-hair, 
sword-fern,  etc.,  while  flowers  abound  in  the  spring  time. 

Wireless  Telegraphy. — At  Santa  Catalina  one  may  see 
the    marvelous    message-sending   by    the    Pacific    Wireless 


^-'^^ 


On  the  Tally-Ho  Drive,  Santa  Catalina. 


219 

Telegraph  Companj'.  The  building  is  in  a  niche,  high  up 
on  the  island.  All  the  observer  sees  is  a  room  where  the 
ordinary  telegraphic  key  is  in  sight,  but  behind  are  the  deli- 
cate instruments  which  aid  in  the  transmission  of  messages. 
Chief  of  these  is  the  induction  coil  composed  of  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty-five  miles  of  fine  insulated  wire.  By  means 
of  this  and  other  instrunients  flashes  of  invisible  lightning,  in 
long  or  short  pulsations,  are  thrown  into  the  atmosphere. 
"Passing  through  the  air  with  the  speed  of  light  they  find 
their  affinity  in  the  wire  suspended  from  the  poles  of  the  re- 
ceiving station,  and  passing  down  this  wire  on  its  way  to  the 
earth,"  the  wave  gives  pulsations  in  the  receiver,  where  the 
operator  notes  them  just  as  is  done  with  the  ordinary  tele- 
graphic machine.  Messages  can  be  sent  to  Los  Angeles  and 
answers  received  in  thirty  minutes.  As  far  as  I  know  this 
is  the  first  commercial  demonstration  of  the  wireless  tele- 
graph in  California. 

Fa7-es. — Regular  fare  from  Los  Angeles  to  Catalina  Is- 
land and  return,  $2.75.  Excursion  rate,  good  going  Saturday 
or  Sundaj^  returning  same  days  or  following  Monday,  $2.50. 
Saturday  and  Sunday  tickets  will  be  extended  sixty  days 
from  date  of  purchase  upon  payment  of  25  cents  additional 
to  captain  or  purser  of  the  steamers  of  the  Wilmington 
Transportation  Company. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

THE  CLIMATE  OF   SOUTHERN   tALlFOKNIA. 

Ever  since  Joaquin  Miller  wrote  his  "First  Families  of 
the  Sierras,"  the  "glorious  climate  of  California"  has  been 
noted  the  world  over.  That  so  many  thousands  should 
have  come  under  its  spell  is  proof  that  there  is  a  marvelous 
witchery  about  it,  and  this  no  one,  however  he  may  argue, 
can  deny. 

In  climate,  as  in  fruits  and  flowers,  California  may  well 
be  the  wonder  of  the  world,  for  it  has  not  its  equal  in  the 
world  for  variety  and  equality.     . 

There  are  several  misapprehensions  in  regard  to  Cali- 
fornia climate  that  it  is  well  to  correct. 

First.     As  to  the  rainy  season. 

Second.    As  to  the  heat  of  the  summer  climate. 

Third.  As  to  the  enervating  effect  of  the  everlasting 
sunshine. 

Nearly  twenty  years  of  residence  and  study  of  the  cli- 
matic conditions  entitle  me  to  speak  as  one  who  knows 
definitely  as  to  these  misapprehensions. 

The  Rainy  Scaso}i. — The  term  "rainy"  as  applied  to  a 
Southern  California  season  of  any  kind  is  a  misnomer.  It 
is  merely  local  phrase  to  distinguish  the  time  when  rain 
falls,  however  slightly,  from  the  time  when  none  falls. 
During  the  summer  months,  say  from  May  to  October,  and 
often  as  late  as  November,  no  rain  falls,  as  a  rule:  net  a 
drop.  Then,  in  October  or  November,  and  until  the  end  of 
April,  rain  may  be  expected  any  time.  But  how?  Not  as 
rain  falls  in  the  East,  but  in  gentle  showers,  seldom  last- 
ing long,  and  often  in  the  night  time,  so  that  a  common 
average  for  a  wJioIe  zinnter's  rain  will  be   from    15  to  20 


221 

inches.  Some  years  have  given  but  7  inches.  Now  it  is 
no  uncommon  thing  to  have  a  rainfall  of  6  or  7  inches  in 
one  week  in  any  of  the  States  of  the  East  or  Middle  West. 
Hence,  it  can  readily  be  seen  that  to  call  a  season  that  gives 
but  from  7  to  20  inches  of  rain  a  "rainy  season,"  is  mislead- 
ing. 

The  Heat  of  Summer. — In  regard  to  this  I  quote  from  a 
circular  issued  by  the  Los  Angeles  Chamber  of  Commerce. 

"Strangers  argue  that  if  the  weather  is  so  pleasantly  mild 
at  midwinter,  it  must,  in  summer,  be  something  like  a  fiery 
furnace,  as  the  name  of  Southern  California  was  formerly 
supposed  to  indicate.  Recently,  at  a  convention  of  a  relig- 
ious body  in  the  East,  when  the  question  of  selecting  the 
next  place  of  meeting  came  up,  one  of  the  delegates  said 
it  would  never  do  to  meet  in  Los  Angeles,  because  in  May 
it  would  be  so  hot  that  all  the  delegates  would  become  sick. 
Such  a  statement  as  this  may  well  excite  a  smile,  from  those 
who  are  acquainted  with  the  climatic  conditions  of  South- 
ern California.  It  is  true  that,  away  from  the  ocean,  the 
thermometer  sometimes  registers  a  high  figure,  but  the  ex-, 
ceptional  dryness  of  the  atmosphere,  facilitating  perspira- 
tion, makes  a  vast  difiference,  so  that  a  temperature  of  90 
degrees  in  Los  Angeles  is  more  comfortable  than  one  of  75 
degrees  in  the  humid  atmosphere  of  Chicago  or  New  York. 
Again,  in  Southern  California,  the  nights  are  invariably 
cool.  There  is  scarcely  a  night  in  the  year  in  which  blan- 
kets are  not  necessary  for  sleeping,  however  warm  the  pre- 
ceding day  may  have  been.  This  is  a  point  which  will  be 
appreciated  by  those  who  have  sufifered  the  discomfort  of 
hot  nights  in  the  East,  which  involve  positive  torture.  In 
short.  Southern  California  possesses  that  rare  thing,  an 
'all-the-year-round'  climate." 

Perpetual  Sunsiiine  Enervating. — As  to  the  enervating 
effect  of  the  monotonous  sunshine  and  perpetually  pleasant 
weather.     The  best  answer  is  not  to  argue  or  theorize,  but 


222 

to  point  to  llic  marvelous  progrcs";  made  in  tlic  building  up 
of  all  the  cities  of  Southern  California  during  tlic  past  few 
years.  Los  Angeles  has  as  much  energy,  vim,  push,  and 
business  enterprise  for  its  size,  and  more,  than  Chicago, 
Boston  or  New  York.  Men  work  as  hard,  and  as  many 
liours  as  in  the  East,  riic  climate  does  not  enervate.  It 
stimulates  and  invigorate?.  But  more.  It  is  .so  equable  that 
one  is  not  exhausted  l)y  liattling  to  keep  v/arm  in  winter 
and  struggling  to  overcome  the  heat  of  summer.  He  re- 
tains all  the  physical  power  he  can  generate  for  his  work, 
be  it  brain  or  physical  labor.  And  only  those  who  know  the 
sapping  and  wasting  of  the  energies  that  come  from  an 
excess  of  heat  or  cold  can  comprehend  to  the  full  what  it 
means  to  live  in  a  climate  where  the  exhausting  drafts  upon 
the  powers  of  a  man  are  no  longer  made. 

It  is  a  well  known  fact  that  a  sudden  fall  or  rise  in  tem- 
perature is  very  injurious  to  the  aged,  or  those  w'ho  are 
in  any  way  weekly.  In  Southern  California  these  sudden 
meteorological  changes  are  practically  unknown,  so  that 
the  semi-invalid  and  the  aged  who  wish  to  conserve  all 
their  powers  are  enabled  to  do  so. 

A  powerful  argument  against  the  idea  that  the  mild  cli- 
mate of  Southern  California  is  emasculating  is  found  in  the 
marvelous  endurance  of  all  native  bred  animals.  The  Cali- 
fornian  wild  horse  performs  feats  of  endurance  that  no 
Eastern  horse  can  possibly  equal.  And  stable  bred  horses, 
like  those  of  Lucky  Baldwin,  L.  J.  Rose  and  Senator  Stan- 
ford, demonstrate  what  the  race  horse  of  California  can 
accomplish.  As  to  the  strength  of  the  native  aborigine  the 
stories  told  of  the  Yuma  and  Mohave  Indians  in  tracking 
on  the  hot  deserts  almost  surpass  belief,  for  they  go  far 
beyond  the  achievements  of  the  most  carefully  trained  athe- 
letes  of  the  East. 

Climate  and  Beauty. — There  is  no  denying  that  an  equable 
climate  is  conducive  to  the  production  of  the  highest  type 


223 

of  beauty  in  both  male  and  female.  Perfect  beauty  is  per- 
fect health.  The  better  the  conditions  for  health  the  more 
assured  is  beauty. 

Climate  and  Children. — Does  it  need  any  argument  to 
show  that  such  a  climate  as  this  of  Southern  California 
makes  the  land  a  perfect  paradise  for  children?  Able  to 
live  out  of  doors  practically  every  day  in  the  year;  lungs, 
heart,  brain,  body  everywhere  brought  in  contact  with  the 
healthful,  invigorating,  sun-laden  air  of  "God's  great  out- 
of-doors,"  surrounded  by  flowers,  trees,  plants  of  every 
kind  exhaling  their  balmy  and  soothing  odors,  what  wonder 
that  the  children  are  beautiful,  healthful  and  happy. 

Climate  and  Longei'ity. — Pages  upon  pages  could  be 
written  of  facts  to  show  the  effects  of  such  a  climate  as 
ihat  of  Southern  California  in  promoting  longevity.  In- 
dians, Mexicans,  Spaniards  and  Americans  alike  have  dem- 
onstrated the  fact.  Indians  of  130  years  old  are  by  no 
means  infrequent.  Dr.  Remondino  in  his  learned  and  in- 
teresting paper  "Longevity  and  Climate,"  published  in  1890, 
lells  of  an  Indian  on  the  Sweetwater,  who  was  one  hundred 
and  fifteen  years  old,  who  "thoroughly  enjoyed  a  joke  and  is 
a  great  talker.  He  is  wonderfully  active  and  a  great  walker, 
and  always  on  the  go.  A  fifty  mile  trip,  going  and  return- 
ing from  the  mountains  for  a  bag  of  acorns  which  he  packs 
on  his  back,  is  a  matter  of  no  moment  for  the  old  gentle- 
man." 

Climate  and  Disease. — Equable  climate,  congenial  sur- 
roundings, healthful  conditions  have  much  to  do  in  enabling 
invalids  to  overcome  disease.  Those  who  are  feeble  or 
beginning  to  be  sick  should  remove  from  a  too  hot,  or  a 
too  cold,  or  a  too  variable  climate  at  once  and  come  to 
Southern  California.  Here  they  may  be  out  of  doors  in  the 
open  air  all  day  throughout  the  year  and  sleep  in  the  balsam- 
laden  woods  in  the  open  all  through  the  summer,  and  in 
tents  all  through  the  winter.    Clear  skies  and  sunshine  have 


224 

a  directly  tonic  effect,  and  a  climate  wlicrc  fresh  fruits  may 
l)e  piircliased  in  open  market  and  eaten  every  day  in  the 
year  is  a  godsend.  Then,  too,  the  cool,  bracing  night  air, 
when  blankets  are  needed  even  through  the  summer,  is  con- 
ducive to  sleep,  and  thus  "Nature's  balmy  restorer"  aids  in 
the  great  work  of  building  up  the  health  of  the  enfeebled, 
and  conserving  the  failing  powers  of  the  aged. 

For  specific  diseases  there  can  be  no  question  whatever 
but  that  in  pulmonary  troubles,  all  nervous  diseases,  all 
asthmatic  afflictions  certain  localities  of  Southern  California 
are  wonderfuly  helpful. 

Hot  Springs,  Bathing,  Etc. — As  will  be  found  on  con- 
sulting the  index,  there  are  many  hot  springs,  etc.,  all  of 
which  are  aids  to  climate  in  restoring  health. 

Causes  of  Climate. — Dr.  Norman  Bridge  thus  scientifi- 
cally explains  the  glory  of  our  remedial  climate : 

"Given  on  the  one  side  an  enormous  body  of  deep,  cold 
water — cold  because  enormous  and  deep — the  everlasting 
ocean ;  on  the  other,  and  not  far  inland,  a  valuable  line  of 
lofty  mountains ;  between  them  an  irregular  inclined-plane 
of  earth  reaching  from  the  base  of  the  mountains  to  the  sea, 
from  one  to  sixty  miles  away ;  this  surface  looking  southerly 
toward  the  sun;  and  the  whole  situated  far  south  in  lati- 
tude— and  you  have  a  set  of  circumstances  that  make  the 
statements  set  forth  about  inevitable.  No  other  result  would 
be  at  all  possible. 

"The  southern  sun  warms  the  earth  and  heats  the  air 
stratum  just  above  it;  the  air,  of  course,  rises  toward  the 
heavens,  but  it  cannot  rise  much  without  some  air  flowing 
in  to  take  its  place.  It  is  more  convenient,  and  means  less 
resistance,  for  the  air  from  the  level  stretch  of  the  ocean  to 
come  in  to  take  its  place,  than  for  the  air  from  the  desert 
beyond  the  mountains  to  rise  above  the  peaks  and  come  over 
to  accomplish  this  purpose.  Hence,  the  breeze  from  the 
ocean  during  the  sunshine  hours  of  the  day;  and  it  must 


be  cool,  for  the  ocean  is  cold.  It  is  only  on  rare  occasions 
that  meteorological  conditions  arise  that  interrupt  the  regu- 
larity of  this  daily  ocean  breeze  blowing  inland  during  the 
last  four-fifths  of  the  sun-seen  day. 

"Then  as  soon  as  the  sun  sets,  the  air  becomes  rapidly 
cooler,  so  great  is  the  radiation  of  the  heat  from  the  earth. 
The  radiation  is  greater  than  on  the  Atlantic  coast  because 
the  atmosphere  is  drier,  the  so-called  diathermancy  of  the 
air  is  greater;  hence  the  earth's  surface  gets  cooled  more 
quickly.  The  greatly  elevated  surfaces,  like  mountain  tops, 
become  cool  more  rapidly  and  more  extremely  than  lower 
points.  The  cool  peaks  and  ridges  chill  the  air  that  touches 
them,  which  becomes  at  once  more  concentrated  and  heavier, 
and  so  it  flows  by  its  own  weight  down  the  mountain  side 
into  the  valleys  and  lowlands,  exactly  as  water  flows  down 
hill.  As  the  higher  lands  are  cooler  than  the  plain,  this  pro- 
cess continues  mostly  throughout  the  night,  and  hence  the 
cool  night  breeze  from  the  mountain. 

"During  all  the  warm  months  of  the  year  this  see-sawing 
of  air  currents  constantly  goes  on  with  only  occasional 
interruptions  by  unusual  wind  elements.  A  sea  breeze  dur- 
ing the  day  and  a  zephyr  from  the  mountains  at  night  is  a 
rule  with  only  rare  exceptions.  If  you  will  open  a  north 
and  a  south  window  of  a  house  and  watch  a  lighted  candle 
set  in  one  of  them,  you  shall  see  its  blaze  tip  sharply  toward 
the  north  nearly  all  day  long,  and  if  the  window  opening 
be  narrow,  it  may  be  blown  out.  At  about  sunset  it  will 
begin  to  straighten  up,  and  presently,  for  a  time  may  be 
seen  to  indicate  a  perfectly  still  atmosphere ;  it  will  burn 
straight  and  erect,  but  soon  it  will  tip  gently  toward  the 
south,  and  so  remain,  with  some  flickerings  and  irregulari- 
ties, till  morning." 

Writing  of  the  advantages  of  California's  summer  climate 
one  says  in  Sunset :    "Consider  a  few  of  the  virtues  possess- 


226 

L(l  l)y  out-of-door  California  during  the  summer  months, 
litre  are  a  dozen  of  them: 

1. — You  may  camp  without  fear  of  rain. 

2. — Nights  arc  cool  and  blankets  comfortable. 

3. — Sunstroke  and  heat  prostrations  are  unknown. 

4. — Flowers  and  fruits  are  everywhere. 

5. — Away  from  the  coast  the  air  is  extremely  dry,  with 
absence  of  all  humidity  at  night. 

6. — Pests  of  mosquitoes  and  gnats  and  the  like  are 
rarely  found. 

7. — The  air  of  the  mountain  and  the  pine  forests  is  so 
invigorating  that  all  coolies  must  be  hired  by  season's 
contract  less  abnormal  appetites  appal  them. 

8. — There  are  more  stretches  of  sandy  beaches  where  the 
surf  of  the  Pacific  meets  the  swimmer  more  than  half 
way  and  makes  sea-bathing  a  delight. 

9. — There  are  lakes  and  rivers  and  forests  where  sports- 
men may  keep  busy  with  rod  and  gun  under  happiest 
conditions. 

ID. — There  arc  hundreds  of  hotels  and  hospitable  resorts 
dotting  the  State  from  mountain  to  sea-shore,  nearly  all 
with  open  door  greetings  the  entire  year. 

A  Word  of  Caution. — One  word  of  caution  is  needed. 
Owing  to  the  small  amount  of  moisture  in  the  Southern 
California  atmosphere  but  little  heat  is  conveyed  into  the 
shade.  So  that  it  is  no  uncommon  thing  to  stand  in  the 
sun  and  be  uncomfortably  hot,  and  then  move  but  a  distance 
of  three  feet,  into  the  shade,  and  there  speedily  become 
chilled.  Easterners  cannot  comprehend  this.  Yet  is  is  a 
most  serious  matter.  Beware  of  sitting  in  the  shade  unless 
well  provided  with  wraps.  Again,  when  you  go  for  walk  or 
drive  in  the  snnshinc  remove  some  of  your  wraps.  When 
you  return  home  or  get  into  the  shade  put  them  on  again 
until  your  body  has  become  used  to  the  reduced  tempera- 
ture. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

IRRIGATION   IN   SOUTHERN   CALIFORNIA. 

He  is  but  a  poor  reader  of  ancient  literature,  history  and 
ruins,  who  does  not  therein  find  much  food  for  thought 
on  the  subject  of  "irrigation."  Palestine  has  many  irriga- 
tion reservoirs  and  aqueducts  to-day,  which  remain  as  a 
memorial  of  ancient  irrigation  systems.  In  Egypt,  Syria, 
South  America,  China,  India,  Ceylon,  Greece,  Rome,  Mexi- 
co, Arizona,  are  found  the  remains  of  extensive  irrigation 
systems. 

Southern  California  is  the  first  country  in  modern  times 
to  restore  the  ancient  methods,  on  improved  plans,  and 
thus  compel  the  otherwise  arid  and  barren  soil  to  yield  up 
its  rich  treasures  of  agricultural,  horticultural  and  floral 
wealth. 

ADVANTAGES  OF  IRRIGATION. 

The  advantages  of  irrigation  are  now  no  longer  a  ques- 
tion for  discussion.  It  is  forever  established  that  irriga- 
tion gives  almost  absolute  control,  and  power  of  regulation 
over  the  moisture  supply,  to  the  owner  of  the  land.  In 
corn  and  alfalfa,  as  well  as  oranges  and  apricots,  the  ad- 
vantages of  a  certain  crop  and  larger  yield  are  secured  by 
irrigation.  Every  farmer,  who  relies  upon  irrigation  for  the 
success  of  his  endeavors,  knows  that  the  work  of  a  season 
cannot  be  brought  to  naught  by  a  week's  drought.  The 
elements  and  seasons  are  practically  under  his  control.  An- 
other advantage  is  that  the  fertilizing  properties,  washed 
down  from  the  mountains  and  held  in  solution  by  the  water, 
are,  by  irrigation,  properly  distributed  over  the  land  for 
its  enrichment  and  renovation. 

The  art  of  irrigation   in   Southern   California   has  been 


228 


hrniijiilu  lo  a  lii^licr  state  of  perfection  than  it  lias  ever  at- 
tained in  any  other  Age,  or  any  other  part  of  the  world.  In- 
deed tlie  marvelous  growth  of  the  country  during  the  past 
fifteen  years  is  almost  entirely  due  to  this  one  fact. 

'i'lic  processes  of  irrip:ation   in   Southern   California  may 


y 


'^:^^9?'i-u- 


Irrtydio^ 


be  classed  under  three  heads:  (i)  Frequent  irrigation  with 
rare  cultivation;  (2)  medium  irrigation  with  medium  cul- 
tivation; (3)  rare  irrigation  with  frequent  cultivation.  The 
first  may  be  termed  the  method  of  the  pioneer,  the  second 
the  method  of  experience,  the  third  the  method  resulting 
from  education.  The  primitive  Mexican  farmer  wasted  as 
much  w'ater  in  growing  a  half  acre  of  beans,  corn  and  mel- 
ons, as  is  now  found  ample  to  thoroughly  irrigate  tw-enty 
to  forty  acres  or  oranges  or  muscat  grapes.  The  change  has 
been  brought  about  by  experience,  education,  and  a  free 
use  of  the  cultivator. 

Anaheim,  Riverside,  Pasadena,  Ontario,  Pomona,  Red- 
lands,  Highlands,  Alessandro,  Chula  Vista,  San  Jacinto, 
Hemet,  Imperial,  and  many  other  cities  and  regions  all  owe 
their  marvelous  and  unexampled  prosperity  to  the  proper 
irrigation  of  the  soil. 


229 


To  attempt,  in  this  hand-book,  any  description  of  tlie 
many  irrigation  systems  of  Southern  California  would  be 
impossible,  yet  there  are  a  few  of  them  that  all  who  are  in- 
terested in  the  subject  should  endeavor  to  A'isit. 

These  are:  The  Bear  Valley  System,  with  a  dam  60  feet 
high.       This  is  situated  in  the  San  Bernardino  mountains. 

The  Sweetwater  Dam,  in  San  Diego  County,  has  been  so 
often  visited  and  described  that  it  is  world-renowned.  It 
is  the  largest  of  its  kind  ever  constructed,  and  its  reservoir 
covers  700  acres,  with  a  storage  capacity  of  six  billions  of 
gallons. 

The  Hemet  System  is  another  great  undertaking,  in  Riv- 
erside  County,   situated   in  the   San   Jacinto   mountains. 

The  Lake  Hemet  Water  Co.  in  the  year  1890  began  the 
construction  of  the  great  Hemet  Dam  across  the  South 
Fork  of  the  San  Jacinto  River,  at  a  point  4,400  feet  above 
sea  level  and  2,800  feet  above  the  town  of  Hemet.  This 
dam  is  the  largest  piece  of  solid  masonary  in  the  West,  and 
was  completed  in  1895.  It  is  250  feet  long,ioo  feet  thick 
at  the  base,  and  1221^ feet  high,  or  about  the  height  of  an 
ordinary  ten-story  "sky-scraper"  building. 


flume     .t  R,^cr^.'j-       '  •      ■y'^'Ml!-^ 


2.30 

Tlic  watcr-slied  supplying  Lake  Hemet  contains  over  loo,- 
000  acres.  From  its  altitude  and  the  fact  that  it  consists 
of  wild,  uninhabited  mountain  wastes,  there  can  be  no  con- 
tamination of  the  water  supply.  From  the  dam  the  water 
flows  for  ten  miles  through  a  natural  channel,  the  rocky 
bed  of  a  gorge  or  canyon,  where  it  enters  the  pipes,  flumes 
and  cement  ditches  of  the  water  system,  to  be  conducted  to 
the  homes  of  the  residents  of  the  valley. 

Palm  Springs.  Banning,  Beaumont,  Redlands.  Highlands, 
ctr.,  all  have  fine  irrigation  systems. 

Perhaps  the  most  extensive  irrigation  system  of  Southern 
California,  is  that  of  Imperial,  referred  to  elsewhere.  Tn 
1896  the  California  Development  Company  was  organized, 
which,  in  IQOO,  began  the  work  of  excavating  canals  for 
its  vast  irrigation  svstem.  The  main  canal  is  seventy  feet 
Avide  and  eight  feet  deep.  It  purposes  to  irrigate  500.000 
acres  of  land  in  the  United  States  and  300,000  in  Lower 
California.  All  the  land  is  desert  land,  and  many  thousands 
of  acres  still  remain  that  may  be  taken  up  from  the  gov- 
ernment by  any  settler  at  $1.25  per  acre.  The  present  price 
of  the  water  right  is  $20  per  acre  additional.  The  climate 
is  thus  referred  to  by  the  Imperial  Land  Company. 

"Tn  summer  time  for  four  or  five  months  the  maximum 
temperature  ranges  all  the  way  from  90  to  115  above  zero, 
with  a  very  few  days  in  which  a  still  higher  record  is  made 
up  to  ITQ.  During  this  period  the  minimum  temperature 
ranges  from  60  to  7=;.  There  are  no  nights  in  summer  that 
are  too  warm  for  comfortable  sleeping  and  rest.  In  winter 
the  maximum  temperature  ranges  from  55  to  85,  and  the 
minimum  ran.ges  from  24  to  55.  The  avera.ge  minimum 
temperature  in  December,  tqot.  was  40.  and  the  same  fig- 
ures also  apply  to  January,  1902.  The  average  maximum 
temperature  for  December  was  72-  and  for  January,  70. 
There  are  very  few  nights   in  winter  too   cold   for  citrus 


231      . 

fruits,  but  these  few  are  apparently  fatal  to  citrus  fruit  cul- 
ture in  the  main  portions  of  the  valley.  There  is  a  mesa  on 
the  southeast  side  of  the  valley  not  yet  irrigated,  where  a 
frostless  belt  will  be  found." 

It  is  stated  that  the  annual  rainfall  is  about  two  inches, 
hence  it  will  be  seen  that  all  the  farming  must  be  done  by 
irrigation. 

Of  the  vast  irrigation  systems  soon  to  be  undertaken  by 
the  National  Government  it  is  too  soon  to  write.  In  later 
editions  of  this  volume  this  work  will  be  fully  described  as 
it  progresses. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

EXPERIMENTAL   AGRICULTURE   IN   SOUTHERN'   CALIKORNiA. 

Tlic  U.  S.  Government  is  wisely  fostering  and  seeking  to 
enlarge  the  scope  of  its  agricultural  interests.  In  1839  the 
national  appropriation  for  agriculture  was  $1,000;  in  1901, 
$3,305,500.  The  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture  is  a  most 
stupendous  organization  with  divisions  covering  animal  in- 
dustry, chemistry,  botany,  entomology,  biological  survey,  for- 
estry, vegetable  physiology  and  pathology,  agrostology,  for- 
eign markets,  pomology,  soils,  seeds,  weather  and  others. 
In  1888  experimental  stations  were  established  on  a  line 
with  Washington's  and  other  suggestions.  Lincoln,  on  May 
5,  1862,  created  the  independent  Department  of  Agriculture 
and  on  July  2.  of  the  same  year,  signed  the  Morrill  Land 
Grant  Act,  which  gave  to  each  State  for  colleges  devoted 
to  agriculture  and  the  mechanic  arts  thirty  thousand  acres 
of  land  for  each  senator  and  representative.  In  1887  the 
Hatch  Act  added  $15,000  a  year  to  each  State  for  experi- 
mental stations,  and  in  1890  the  Morrill  Act  added  an- 
other $28,000  per  year. 

The  stations  of  California  are  under  the  control  of  the 
Professor  of  Agriculture  at  the  head  station  at  Berkeley, 
Cal.,  Prof.  E.  W.  Hilgard  in  charge. 

In  Southern  California  there  is  a  station  at  Pomona,  and 
a  forestry  station  at  Santa  IMonica.  A  new  forestry  station 
is  also  established  on  Mount  Lowe,  under  the  direction  of 
Professor  T.  P.  Lukens  of  the  San  Gabriel  Forest  Re- 
serve. 

Special  investigations  are  made  as  to  the  treatment  of 
alkali  soils,  arid  lands,  irrigation,  the  various  methods  of 


233 

culture,  and  a  thorough  survey  of  all  the  soils  and  fer- 
tilizers of  the  State  is  being  made.  Analyses  of  water  for 
irrigation  and  domestic  purposes  are  constantly  being  made, 
as  well  as  studies  of  the  fruits  and  fruit  products,  the  in- 
fluence of  climate  and  location  on  different  varieties.  ''In- 
vestigations of  citrus  fruits,  wines,  olives,  sugar-beets,  can- 
aigre  and  other  crops,  particularly  those  best  resisting 
droughts  or  alkali,  have  been  very  extensive.  Studies  of 
foods  and  dietaries  for  human  beings  and  domestic  ani- 
mals have  been  carried  on  for  years.  Weeds,  plant  diseases, 
and  injurious  insects  have  received  constant  attention.  Dis- 
tribution of  new  and  rare  seeds  and  plants  have  been  made 
annually.  Classes,  lectures,  laboratory  work,  correspond- 
ence, original  investigations  into  problems  of  California 
agriculture  fill  the  time  of  these  busy  workers." 

While  Luther  Burbank,  the  wizard  of  the  plant,  does  not 
live  in  Southern  California,  his  home  being  at  Santa  Rosa, 
it  is  appropriate  briefly  to  refer  to  his  work,  which  is 
world-famed,  as  it  suggests  similar  possibilities  to  those 
of  like  spirit.  By  careful  and  reverent  study  of  nature's 
methods  he  has  developed  some  wonderful  results.  The 
giant  prune  has  come  from  the  French  prune  ;  berries  four 
times  as  large  as  the  old  varieties;  the  prolific  improved 
peachplum;  the  exquisite  Shasta  daisy;  the  pineapple 
quince;  the  new  fruit,  the  plumcot,  a  mixture  of  apricot  and 
plum;  the  peach  almond;  and  a  score  or  more  of  flowers. 
His  fame  began  when  he  developed  the  potato  that  bears 
his  name, —  the  Burbank.  Good  cultivation  and  persistent 
selection  are  his  watchwords.  In  the  cross  pollenation  or 
hybridizing  of  flowers  his  achievements  sound  like  magic, 
yet  they  are  only  the  results  of  scientific  methods  persistently 
followed. 


CHAPTER  XVr. 

EDUCATION    I.V    SOUTHERN    CALIFORNIA. 

The  mental  calibre  of  a  community  or  a  State  can  well 
be  tested  by  the  educational  opportunities  it  provides  for  its 
sons  and  its  daughters.  Of  the  public  schools  of  this  por- 
tion of  the  State  it  is  not  necessary  to  say  more  than  that 
per  capita  more  money  is  expended  here  for  public  education 
than  in  any  other  center  in  the  world. 

While  the  two  great  educational  institutions  of  the  State, 
viz. :  the  State  University  at  Berkeley,  and  the  Leland  Stan- 
ford, Jr.,  University  at  Palo  Alto  are  in  the  northern  part 
of  the  State  they  are,  of  course,  open  to  the  youth  of  the 
South  with  those  of  the  North,  for,  as  I  have  elsewhere  re- 
marked there  is  in  California  no  north  and  no  south  except 
as  a  local  phrase  of  convenience. 

In  Los  Angeles  and  San  Diego  are  State  Normal  Schools, 
both  conducted  with  that  high  degree  of  efficiency  re- 
quired by  the  exacting  educational  conditions.  The  build- 
ings are  new,  modern  and  well  equipped,  as  are  all  the 
various  departments. 

The  Methodists  control  the  University  of  Southern  Cali- 
fornia, which  is  located  in  the  western  part  of  the  city  of 
Los  Angeles.     Its  president  is  Dr.  George  Bovard. 

Its  art  department  is  the  finest  in  the  South,  and  is  under 
the  control  of  Professor  W.  L.  Judson,  the  dean,  who  him- 
self is  an  artist  of  growing  international  fame.  This 
school  is  imique  in  California  and  has  received  the  highest 
commendations  and  endorsements  from  the  eminent  art  ed- 
ucators from  Eastern  cities  who  have  visited  Southern 
California  from  time  to  time.  It  is  essentially  modern  in 
its   methods   and   principles,    practical    and   eminently   sue- 


23^ 

ccssful  in  ils  results,  (uniiiiK  out  not  merely  craftsmen,  Init 
artists,  imbued  with  the  true  artistic  spirit.  It  is  located 
at  Garvanza,  one  of  the  suburbs  of  Los  Angeles,  on  the 
electric  line  to  Pasadena. 

The  Presbyterians  control  the  Occidental  College  occupy- 
ing a  fine  new  classical  building  on  Pasadena  Avenue,  Los 
Angeles. 

The  Roman  Catholics  have  St.  Vincent's  College,  an  in- 
stitution with  an  enviable  record.    It  is  also  in  Los  Angeles. 

The  Congregationalists  support  Pomona  College  at  Clare- 
mont,  which  is  a  rapidly  growing  institution  under  the  pre- 
sidency of  Dr.  Gates,  formerly  of  Grinnell,  Iowa. 

The  Dunkards  have  a  good  school  at  Lordsburg,  and  the 
Theosophical  School  of  Ancient  Mysteries,  etc..  at  Point 
Loma,  near  San  Diego,  is  renowned  throughout  the  world. 

Throop  Polytechnic  Institute,  at  Pasadena,  is  one  of  the 
best  equipped  of  manual  and  technical  training  schools  and 
its  president  and  professors  are  honored  as  leading  expon- 
ents of  their  art  throughout  the  whole  country. 

Of  lesser  schools  pages  might  be  written.  Among  the 
principal  of  them  are  the  Harvard  Military  Academy,  Dob- 
inson's  school  of  Dramatic  Art,  ^liss  Marsh's  School  for 
Girls,  Girls'  Collegiate  School,  Mrs.  Addison  Murphy 
Griggs's  School  of  Oratory,  McLeod's  College  of  Fine  Arts, 
all  in  Los  Angeles,  and  Miss  Orton's  School  for  Girls  in 
Pasadena.  Another  well  known  school  is  that  of  Dr. 
Thacker  in  the  Ojai  Vallej',  where  bojs  are  given  an  out- 
door life,  under  military  drill. 

Every  city  and  town  of  the  State,  also,  has  its  private 
kindergartens  and  schools,  thus  aflFording  adequate  facili- 
ties for  the  education  of  children  of  both  sexes  and  all 
ages. 


CHAPTER  XVI r. 

SOUTHERN  CALIFORNIA  ARTISTS. 

This  is  essentiall}'^  the  artist's  paradise.  Italy,  Spain,  the 
Mediterannean  are  not  more  alluring  in  physical  aspect  than 
California  and  the  Pacific.  The  mountains,  sky-piercing, 
snow-crowned,  slope-forested,  flower-carpeted,  canyon- 
seamed,  stream-vivified,  leading  to  foothills,  valley,  sandy 
heach,  wide  expanse  of  pearly  blue  ocean  and  far  away 
islands,  swimming  in  a  glorious  fog  or  purple  haze,  the 
whole  overarched  with  a  sky  of  perfect  cobalt,  afford  a 
surpassing  background  for  man  and  his  achievements. 

Hence  a  school  of  artists  is  awakening  to  life  here  that 
will  eventually  be  as  noted  and  world-renowned  as  any  of 
the  old  schools  of  Europe.  Later  I  shall  write  more  fully 
of  these  artists.  Here  I  can  but  cusorily  mention  them. 
Judson,  dean  of  the  art  department  of  the  University  of 
Southern  California,  is  one  of  its  foremost  leaders,  both 
as  practical  artist  and  successful  teacher.  His  canvasses 
have  a  strength  and  power  that  render  them  peculiar- 
ly attractive  to  those  who  have  been  allured  by  the 
nature  of  California  and  its  adjoining  Arizona.  In  his 
Grand  Canyon  pictures,  with  the  sunrise  and  sunset  effects 
upon  the  glowing  walls  of  red,  no  other  artist  has  ever 
caught  so  perfectly  the  life  and  spirit  as  he.  His  Yosemites, 
Seascapes,  Old  Missions,  trees,  etc.,  are  all  powerful  and 
pleasing  and  have  already  made  a  definite  place  for  them- 
selves in  the  great  world  of  art. 

Sauerwin  has  made  notable  pictures  of  Indians  and  des- 
ert life.  Several  lengthy  visits  to  the  Navahoes,  Hopis  and 
other  tribes  and  a  careful  studying  of  the  Arizona  plains. 


238 

niouiilains  and  clcserls  in  all  llicir  varying  moods  have 
given  him  a  knowledge  which  his  fearless  brush  has  util- 
ized to  fine  advantage. 

Brown  is  another  of  this  new  school.  He  loves  the  pur- 
ples of  the  mountains,  the  blue  of  the  sky  flecked  with 
clouds,  and  the  quietly  pastoral  scenes  of  the  valley,  and  he 
produces  pictures  that  will  live  and  grow  in  fame. 

Gardner  Symons  is  a  vigorous,  robust,  wide-sweeping 
soul  that  dares  and  achieves.  He  soars  high,  even  to  the 
banner  clouds  that  float  from  our  highest  mountain  sum- 
mits, and  then  dives  into  deepest  canyon  depths,  and  al- 
ways with  a  vivid  power  that  makes  mountains,  clouds, 
canyons  live  and  palpitate  before  you. 

Of  the  vivid  colorist  effects  of  Paul  de  Longpre's  flowers 
the  world  itself  has  already  said  its  say.  Located  perman- 
ently now  at  Hollywood,  surrounded  by  flowers  as  he  never 
was  in  La  Belle  France,  we  may  look  for  further  achieve- 
ments from  this  talented  brush  that  will  far  eclipse  any- 
thing he  has  yet  done. 

Alex.  F.  Harmer,  of  Santa  Barbara,  has  won  his  way  to 
fame  by  persistent,  consistent  labor  and  faith  in  his  own 
genius.  As  a  depicter  of  the  Indians  of  Arizona  and  Cali- 
fornia, no  man  living  is  so  well  equipped  for  the  work. 
When  a  mere  lad  he  began  his  study  of  them.  Twenty  or 
more  years  ago  he  was  on  the  frontier  campaigning  with 
Crook,  and  associating  with  Bourke  and  other  Indian  ex- 
perts. He  is  one  of  the  few  artists  of  the  world  who  has 
visited  the  Havasupai  Indians  in  their  native  habitat,  the 
wonderful  Havasu  Canj'on  in  which  are  waterfalls  more 
exquisitely  beautiful  than  those  of  the  Yosemite.  He  paints 
the  old  life  of  the  padres,  Indians  and  Spanish  at  the  mis- 
sions, as  well  as  produces  upon  leather  in  his  own  fash- 
ion artistic  effects  depicting  "The  Passing  of  the  Nations," 
for  the  library  of  Attorney  General  Knox,  at  Pittsburg. 


239 

Bond  Francisco  is  well  known  as  artist  and  manipulator 
of  the  magic  bow.  As  violinist  or  artist  he  excels.  His 
work  shows  that  keen  appreciation  of  the  gentle,  peaceful, 
pastoral  that  places  him  as  an  artist  side  by  side  with  Row- 
land Sill  as  a  poet. 

In  flowers  Edith  White  has  gained  well  deserved  fame, 
many  of  her  canvasses  having  been  purchased  for  Euro- 
pean galleries  and  homes.  With  a  passionate  love  for  flow- 
ers she  has  developed  a  poetic  conception  of  their  life  which 
she  depicts  in  conscious  power  for  others. 

Ellen  B.  Farr  also  excels  in  this  line,  and  also  as  South- 
ern California's  chief  fish  painter.  By  heredity  or  choice 
she  must  be  a  favorite  disciple  of  the  shade  of  Isaak  Walton 
for  she  expatiates  upon  the  "Noble  Art"  of  angling  in  a 
way  that  reveals  her  natural  aptitude.  Only  such  an  one 
could  paint  fish  as  she  has  done.  They  live  under  her 
brush,  and  delight  nature  lovers  who  are  not  fishermen  as 
well  as  those  who  are.  She  has  also  marked  success  in  her 
pepper  tree  paintings.  These  are  essentially  Southern  Cali- 
fornian  and  carry  with  them  the  lacy  leaves,  creamy  blos- 
soms, vivid  berries  and  grateful  surroundings  wherever  they 
go. 

Carl  Eytsl  is  a  rising  young  artist  who  has  the  true  stuff 
in  him.  For  fourteen  years  he  has  made  a  special  study  of 
the  Colorado  Desert,  the  wild  cattle  thereupon  and  the 
palms  in  the  canyons  near  Palm  Valley.  He  is  destined  to 
make  his  mark,  for  no  man  can  live  on  the  desert  as  he 
lias  done  unless  his  heart  is  aflame  with  love  for  its  color- 
ings, its  silences,  its  mysteries,  and  is  desirous  of  pre- 
senting them  to  others.  His  cattle  scenes  are  true  to  life 
especially  when  he  pictures  the  rugged  side  of  their  life, 
as  in  his  painting  of  the  two  bulls  of  the  desert  in  a  duel 
to  the  death. 


240 


Elmer  Waclitcl  is  another  Los  Angeles  arlist  hose  work 
in  landscapes  is  strong  and  full  of  poltic  feeling. 

Mrs.  C.  Dalton  Bond  came  to  Los  Angeles  from  Europe 
and  for  sixteen  years  has  worked  here  successfully  in 
porcelain,  oil  and  water-color.  Her  porcelain  head  of 
Cleopatra  has  gained  her  much  renown. 

N.  J.  Newark,  who  settled  in  Santa  Barbara  in  1874,  is 
making  special  studies  of  the  Old  Missions  and  early  Cali- 
fornia life. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

THE  WILD   FLOWERS   OF   SOUTHERN    CALIFORNIA. 

This  makes  no  pretence  to  being  a  complete  botanical 
chapter.  It  is  merely  a  suggestion  for  the  general  reader. 
The  student  will  find  several  good  books  on  the  subject  m 
any  first-class  bookstore. 

During  the  summer  the  plains,  foothills  and  mountain 
slopes  are  not  outwardly  rich  in  floral  treasures,  but  when 
tlie  winter  rains  come,  in  November,  flowers  spring  up 
everywhere  like  magic.  Baby-blue-eyes,  opening  their  inno- 
cent lids  to  the  sun;  forget-me-nots,  pale  blue  and  white; 
the  small  yellow  daisy  growing  in  legions  among  violets  and 
ijuttercups,  by  clustering  hyacinths,  at  the  feet  of  the 
bluebell — up  the  hillside  and  under  the  rocks,  hiding  awhile 
with  the  delicate  fern.  The  larkspurs  and  lupines  abound, 
and  most  prized  of  all,  beds  of  acres  of  the  copa  de  oro,  the 
cup  of  gold,  the  California  poppy.  In  April  or  May  it 
seems  as  if  nothing  could  surpass  the  broad  vistas  of  heath- 
ery chemosal,  or  grease-wood,  powdered  like  snow  with  its 
racemose  panicles  of  tiny  white  blossoms ;  then  you  are 
attracted  to  the  snowy  lilybells  or  harebells  or  white- 
globe  tulips,  whose  three  petaled  white  globes  are  of  so 
delicate  a  texture  as  to  be  almost  translucent;  only  to  be 
driven  out  of  mind  when  you  catch  sight  of  the  styrax, 
whose  pure  white  vies  in  loveliness  with  the  orange-blos- 
soms of  the  valleys.  Here  are  brilliant  scarlet  Indian 
pinks  and  bugle-shaped  penstemons,  yellow  buttercups  and 
creamcups,  dandelions,  mimulus,  tree  poppies  and  sunflow- 
ers. Yonder  are  purple  brodias,  which  delight  the  eyes  of 
strangers  at  our  flower  carnivals.  By  the  streams  are  to 
be  seen  scores  of  tiger  lilies,  flaunting  their  riotous  color 
banners  before  the  eye,  as  if  jealous  of  the  stately  dignity 
and  calm  serenity  of  the  gigantic  yuccas  with  their  cream- 


242 

wliitc  distaffs,  well  named  by  the  old  priests  "The  Candle- 
sticks of  Our  Lord."  The  wild  honeysuckle  gives  out  its 
fragrance  and  clusters  of  everlasting  flower,  a  member  of 
the  edleweiss  family,  puts  forth  its  crowded  clusters. 

Earlier  in  the  winter  one  sees  the  waxed  flowers  of  the 
manzanita  and  now  the  trees  are  laden  with  the  little  ap- 
ples which  give  the  plant  its  name.  The  wild  morning 
glories,  with  snow  white  funnels,  look  upon  the  love-plant 
the  hateful  dodder,  that  spreads  its  reddish  brown  threads 
over  other  plants  to  strangle  out  their  life.  Everywhere  is 
the  white  sage  making  the  air  redolent  with  its  fragrance. 

Of  the  lily  family  are  the  mariposa  tulip  of  several  varie- 
ties. Yonder  is  the  blazing  star,  a  surpassingly  beautiful 
blossom,  its  slender,  lemon-yellow  petals  of  the  texture  of 
a  primrose. 

One  of  the  hardy  evergreen  shrubs  that  ever  delights  the 
eye  is  the  toyon,  or  California  holly.  In  midsummer  it  is 
covered  with  showy  large  clusters  of  white  flowers :  in 
winter  with  vivid  scarlet  berries. 

A  general  favorite  found  only  in  the  remote  canyons  is 
the  matilija  poppy  (pornounced  ma-til-ly-hah),  the  Romneya 
Coulteri.  This  is  a  shrubby  plant  perhaps  ten  feet  high 
and  as  many  across.  The  Spanish  children  call  the  flowers 
Los  Hcrmanitas,  the  little  sisters,  because  the  white  waving 
petals  suggests  to  them  the  spreading  bonnets  of  the  Sisters 
of  Charity. 

Who  can  forget  H.  H.'s  description  of  the  wild  mus- 
tard, once  planted  by  the  Spanish  priests  to  line  the  path- 
way from  mission  to  mission.  "Coming  up  out  of  the 
earth,  so  slender  a  stem  that  dozens  can  find  starting-point 
in  an  inch,  it  darts  up,  a  slender,  straight  shoot,  five,  ten. 
twenty  feet,  with  hundreds  of  fine  feathery  branches  lock- 
ing and  interlocking  with  all  the  other  hundreds  around  it. 
till  it  is  an  inextricable  net  work  like  lace.  Then  it  bursts 
into  yellow  bloom  still  finer,  more  feathery  and  lace-like. 


243 

Tlie  stems  arc  so  infinitesmally  small  and  of  so  dark  a 
green,  that  at  a  short  distance  they  do  not  show,  and  the 
cloud  of  blossoms  seems  floating  in  the  air ;  at  times  it 
looks  like  golden  dust.  With  a  clear,  blue  sky  behind  it,  as 
it  is  often  seen,  it  looks  like  a  golden  snow  storm." 

But  the  butter-cups,  the  wall-flower  and  the  pop-corn, 
the  Johnney-jump-up,  the  hollyhock,  the  gilia  and  the  layia, 
lead  the  eye  to  the  flowering  shrubs,  the  California  holly, 
the  cornus,  the  coffee-berry,  the  wild  rose  and  the  islay, 
or  holly-leaved  cherry,  while  overhead  towers  the  pepper, 
the  acacia  and  the  exquisite  flower  cups  of  the  eucalyptus, 
whose  creamy  blossoms  no  garden  flower  can  equal,  much 
less  surpass. 

On  the  hill  sides  are  cowslips,  blue  violents  and  magenta 
rock-cress,  while  a  little  lower  are  the  iris  both  the  longi- 
petala  and  the  Douglasii,  their  beautiful  gowns  alluring  the 
flitting  insects.  Still  lower  are  the  sunflower  and  the  thistle, 
the  golden  rod,  the  deadly  night-shade  and  the  currant,  the 
pink  Collinsia  and  the  snowy  star  of  Bethlehem,  the  red 
columbine  and  a  score  of  others. 

In  the  ravines  the  trillium,  the  true  Solomon's  Seal,  and 
Its  false  sister,  the  frittilaria,  and  the  shooting  star,  seek 
shelter.  In  the  water  course  is  the  veronica,  the  smart- 
weed,  the  silver-weed  and  the  flea-bane.  Here  and  there 
the  convolculus  and  the  pea  support  themselves  on  their 
stronger  brothers,  while  under  the  shade  of  shrubs  the  violet 
nemophila  and  the  Dutchman's  pipe  clamber  up  for  the 
sun's  rays,  and  the  dainty  yerba  buena  clings  close  to  the 
earth. 

In  the  woodsides  the  delicate  anemone  and  the  beautiful 
bleeding-heart  hide  away,  while  on  the  sands  of  the  coasts 
one    may    revel    in    asters,    abronias,    tornitas    and    lupines. 

Everywhere  in  the  plains  is  the  delicate  "filaree,"  the  al- 
fileria,  which  is  as  beautiful  and  graceful  to  the  eye  as 
cattle  find  it  to  the  taste. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

SOUTHERN   CALIFORNIA    FOR  THE   SPORTSMAN 

This  is  the  sportsman's  paradise,  or,  at  least,  so  say 
Theo.  S.  Van  Dyke,  Charles  Frederick  Holder  and  a  score 
of  other  sportsmen  of  international  fame. 

Duck  Hunting. — The  home  dwellers  of  the  duck  family 
are  the  mallard,  gadwell,  or  glay  duck,  and  the  wood 
duck.  The  sprig,  the  cinnamon,  or  blue-winged  teal,  and  a 
few  green-winged  teal  resort  to  the  rivers  and  marshes. 
The  migratory  ducks  include  the  widgeon,  canvas-back, 
red-head,  bluebill,  spoonbill  and  the  nomad  families  of 
sprig  and  teal. 

Every  duck  known  to  frequent  the  temperate  zone  and  all 
varieties  of  birds  that  feed  upon  the  waters  and  margins 
of  streams,  even  the  gigantic  pelican,  are  found  here.  The 
most  numerous  are  the  widgeon,  teal,  sprig,  gadwell, 
canvas  back,  red-head,  butterball,  ruddy,  bluebill,  black- 
jack, cinnamon  teal,  sawbill,  Mexican  tree  duck,  brown- 
head  or  whistler,  mallard  and  spoonbill.  These  with  the 
curlew,  avacet,  murlin,  bullhead  plover,  black  ibis,  yellow- 
leg,  English  jack-Snipe  and  other  spray- footed  water  fowl, 
make  up  a  select  assortment  that  cannot  be  equaled  even 
in  the  famous  hunting  grounds  of  Chesapeake  Bay  or  the 
Everglades  of  Florida. 

October,  November,  December  and  January  are  the  favo- 
rite and  open  months  for  duck  hunting. 

Feathered  game,  such  as  doves,  mountain  quail,  grouse 
and  sagehens  abound.  As  one  goes  over  the  mountain  and 
valley  roads  he  will  constantly  see  bevies  of  quail,  bright- 


245 

eyed  videttes  of  the  wildwood  army  of  occupation,  strutting 
in  single  file  ahead  or  to  one  side  of  him. 

Deer,  Antelope,  Bear,  etc. — Van  Dj-ke's  "Still  Hunter" 
and  his  other  books  on  Southern  California  hunting  give 
all  the  information  that  is  necessary  upon  these  subjects. 
Here  are  fields  that  expert  hunters  say  are  better  than  the 
generality  of  the  classic  hunting  fields  of  the  United  States. 

Trout  Fishing. — There  are  many  streams  teeming  with 
trout  (the  Salmo  iridens)  in  Southern  California.  Out 
from  Pasadena,  San  Diego,  Pomona,  Ontario,  and  especially 
up  the  San  Bernardino  range  in  the  headwaters  of  the 
Santa  Ana,  fine  fishing  streams  are  to  be  found.  Here 
trout  find  congenial  habitat,  plenty  of  cold,  pure,  running 
water  and  almost  ideal  spawning  grounds.  The  brook 
trout  (Salmo  fontanalis)  is  plentiful.  Good  casts  used 
are  Benn's  royal  coachman  as  a  dropper,  a  black  gnat- 
body  with  a  royal  coachman  wing  for  the  middle  fly,  and 
Benn's  professor,  grizzly  king,  or  a  light-winged  caddis  for 
the  top.    Tie  these  flies  on  a  No.  8  sproat. 

From  an  article  in  Sunset  magazine,  written  by  Edgar  D. 
Peixotto,  I  extract  the  following: 

Matters  pertaining  to  the  fish  and  game  of  California 
are  under  the  supervision  and  control  of  what  is  officially 
termed  the  State  Board  of  Fish  Commissioners,  three  in 
number,  appointed  by  the  governor  of  the  State,  with 
the  consent  of  the  senate,  and  hold  office  during  the  gov- 
ernor's pleasure.  The  position  is  honorary,  carrying  no 
compensation. 

The  present  commissioners  (1903)  are  H.  W.  Keller,  of 
Santa  Monica,  president  of  the  commission ;  W.  W.  Van 
Arsdale,  San  Francisco,  and  W.  E.  Gerber,  Sacramento. 
The  chief  deputy  commissioner  is  Charles  A.  Vogelsang. 

The  powers  and  duties  of  the  State  Board  of  Fish  Com- 
missioners are  briefly :    To  see  that  the  laws  for  the  preser- 


246 

vation  of  fisli  and  game  arc  strictly  enforced,  and  for  that 
purpose  they  may  employ  such  assistants  as  they  may  deem 
necessary,  which  assistants  shall  have  the  powers  and  au- 
thority of  sheriffs  to  make  arrests  for  violation  of  the  fish 
and  game  laws;  to  establish  fish  hatcheries  for  stocking  the 
waters  of  the  State  with  foreign  and  native  fish ;  to  purchase 
and  import  spawn  and  ova  of  fish  suitable  for  food,  and  to 
stock  with  such  spawn  the  waters  of  the  State ;  to  employ 
persons  skilled  in  fish  breeding  to  assist  them  in  their 
duties  and  to  plan,  direct  and  compel  the  construction  and 
repair  of  fish  ladders  and  ways;  open  dams  and  obstruc- 
tions ;  to  provide  for  the  distribution  and  protection  of 
game  birds  imported  into  this  State  for  the  purpose  of 
propagation ;  and  to  make  a  biennial  report  to  the  governor 
of  their  transactions  and  disbursements. 

The  commission's  work  was  at  first  largely  taken  up  with 
the  protection  and  propagation  of  fish,  and  some  of  the 
most  amazing  results  have  been  accomplished  through  their 
labors.  Foremost  among  the  protected  fish  of  California  is 
the  salmon.  By  the  legislation  and  restriction  in  regard  to 
this  fish,  its  supply  has  not  only  been  preserved,  but  very 
much  increased,  and  the  wholesale  price  in  the  market  has 
been  kept  as  low  as  from  five  to  eight  cents,  the  supply 
being  abundant  both  for  the  market  and  for  the  many 
canneries  maintained  in  California. 

Striped  bass  is  an  excellent  illustration  of  the  accom- 
plishment of  the  commission.  This  fish,  like  shad,  was 
entirely  unknown  in  the  waters  of  California.  About 
eighteen  years  ago,  four  hundred  striped  bass  (fingerlings). 
brought  from  the  East,  were  planted  near  Benicia  in  the 
Straits  of  Carquinez,  and  to-day,  from  a  commercial  stand- 
point, striped  bass  stands  next  to  salmon  as  a  food  fisli 
of  this  State.  Last  spring  striped  bass  was  the  cheapest 
fish  sold  on  the  Sacramento  River,  bringing  from  one  to 


247 

one  and  a  half  cents  per  pound,  while  sahnon  was  sold  for 
from  five  to  six  cents. 

The  legislature  of  1901  made  June  a  closed  season  for 
striped  bass  and  reduced  the  weight  limit  to  one  pound. 
This  act  was  not  found  to  be  effective  by  the  commission, 
and  on  its  recommendation  the  legislature  of  1903  restored 
the  former  law  of  no  closed  season  for  striped  bass  and 
restored  the  weight  limit  to  not  less  than  three  pounds. 

The  propagation  of  shad  has  met  with  similar  success, 
and  it  is  a  fact  that  the  shad  which  have  been  propagated 
in  the  waters  of  California  have  attained  a  considerably 
larger  growth  than  the  shad  in  the  eastern  waters. 

As  an  antithesis  to  striped  bass  and  as  an  example  of 
destruction  by  lack  of  prohibitive  laws,  the  decreasing  of 
the  supply  of  sturgeon  may  be  cited.  Sturgeon,  from  being 
so  abundant  in  the  waters  about  California  as  to  have  little 
or  no  market  value,  by  reason  of  unrestricted  capture  and 
destruction,  became  one  of  the  highest  priced  fish,  so  high 
as  to  be  prohibited  to  the  masses.  As  the  flesh  of  sturgeon 
and  the  roe  for  caviar  are  important  food  products,  the 
legislature  of  1901,  under  the  recommendation  of  the  Fish 
Commission,  passed  a  law  prohibiting  at  all  times,  for  an 
indefinite  period,  the  taking  of  sturgeon.  When  this  fish 
will  have  again  come  into  abundance  no  doubt  the  re- 
striction will  be  modified. 

In  no  part  of  the  world  may  be  found  finer  shrimps  or 
crabs  than  those  found  in  the  waters  of  California.  Gour- 
mets from  all  over  the  world  acquiesce  in  this.  The 
abundance  seemed  unlimited  and  the  price  was  so  trifling 
that  shrimp  and  crab  were  given  away  as  a  trimming  in 
many  of  the  restaurants.  But  the  inroads  of  the  Chinese 
and  the  destructive  market  hunter  soon  had  their  effect 
upon  what  seemed  to  be  an  inexhaustible  supply,  and 
legislation  became  necessary.     Shrimps  have  now  a  closed 


248 

season  from  May  ist  to  August  1st,  and  crabs  from  Sep- 
tember 1st  to  October  ist,  and  at  no  time  can  a  crab 
measuring  less  than  six  inches  across  the  back,  be  taken. 

Under  the  laws  of  California  it  is  at  all  times  unlawful 
to  buy,  sell,  offer  for  sale,  barter  or  trade,  at  any  time, 
any  quail,  pheasant,  grouse,  sage  hen,  ibis,  plover,  or  any 
deer  meat  or  deer  skins;  also  to  have  in  possession  doe 
or  fawn  skins ;  to  take  cr  kill  at  any  time  does,  fawns, 
elk  or  antelope ;  to  take  or  kill  pheasants  or  bob-white  quail ; 
to  run  deer  with  dogs  during  the  closed  season ;  to  shoot 
half  hour  before  sunrise  or  half  hour  after  sunset;  to  trap 
game  of  any  kind  without  written  permission  from  the 
Board  of  Fish  Commissioners;  to  take  or  destroy  nests  or 
eggs  of  game  birds ;  to  ship  game  in  concealed  packages  or 
without  the  name  and  address  of  the  shipper  being  distinctly 
marked  thereon ;  to  buy  or  sell  trout  less  than  one-half 
pound  in  weight ;  to  take  at  any  time  sturgeon  or  female 
crabs ;  to  take  abalones  less  than  fifteen  inches  in  ciraim- 
ference;  to  take  trout  or  black  bass  except  with  hook  and 
line ;  to  take  salmon,  shad  or  striped  bass  with  a  net  less 
than  seven  and  a  half  inch  mesh ;  to  fish  with  boat  and 
net  without  a  license;  to  fish  for  salmon  with  nets  Satur- 
day and  Sunday;  to  at  any  time  use  a  set  net;  to  take  fish 
at  any  time  or  in  any  manner  within  fifty  feet  of  a  fish 
way ;  to  take,  buy  or  sell  striped  bass  less  than  three  pounds 
in  weight ;  to  at  any  time  shoot  meadow  larks  or  to  shoot 
on  enclosed  land  without  permission  of  the  owner. 

In  addition  to  the  work  of  protection  here  outlined,  the 
commission  maintains  and  operates,  under  the  laws  of 
California,  numerous  fish  hatcheries,  the  principal  being  at 
Sisson.  What  has  been  accomplished  by  these  hatcheries 
is  best  shown  by  a  brief  quotation  from  the  last  report  of 
the  commission,  as  follows  : 

Our  State  already  ranks  high  in  the  matter  of  fish  propa- 


249 

gation.  We  desire  to  maintain  that  standing.  Our  work 
furnishes  a  cheap  food  supply  to  thousands.  The  poor 
people  of  our  State  are  more  largely  benefited  than  any 
other  class.  In  San  Francisco  our  markets  are  selling  food 
fish  every  day  in  the  year,  at  retail,  twenty-five  per  cent, 
cheaper  than  they  are  selling  in  New  York  markets  at 
wholesale. 

In  the  face  of  increased  demand,  our  salmon  supply  is 
steadily  increasing,  since  artificial  propagation  began.  At 
the  beginning  of  the  present  "close  season,"  September  lo, 
there  was  the  largest  run  of  salmon  in  the  Sacramento  and 
San  Joaquin  Rivers  known  in  ten  years. 

This  commission  planted  four  hundred  striped  bass 
(fingerlings)  near  Benicia,  in  the  Straits  of  Carquinez,  some 
eighteen  years  ago.  We  are  now  marketing,  of  this  delic- 
ious food  fish,  about  two  million  pounds  per  annum  in  San 
Francisco.  We  have  brought  about  the  same  conditions  in 
the  planting  of  shad.  We  are  planting  millions  of  trout 
fry  annually,  which  afford  not  only  food,  but  also  healthful 
sport  for  thousands  of  our  people.  We  are  devoting  more 
attention  to  the  propagation  of  Eastern  brook  trout  (fon- 
tinalis),  a  most  desirable  food  and  game  fish,  one  that  will 
flourish  in  the  smaller  streams,  especially  in  the  meadows 
of  our  high  plateaus,  where  no  other  trout  will  remain. 
We  are  maintaining  and  increasing  the  supply  of  rainbow 
trout  in  the  headwaters  of  the  Sacramento  and  in  the  Mc- 
Cloud  and  Truckee  Rivers,  three  of  the  famous  trout 
streams  of  the  world,  that  bring  to  their  attractive  banks 
anglers  from  all  parts  of  the  Union. 

The  planting  of  black  bass  has  not  received  the  attention 
it  deserves,  because  of  lack  of  funds.  This  valuable  fish 
.should  be  more  widely  distributed  through  the  barren  lakes 
and  reservoirs  of  the  State  at  the  lower  elevations,  where 
trout  will  not  flourish,  so  that  a  desirable  and  convenient 


250 

food    supply    would    be   placed   within    the    reach    'ii    in.iiiy 
more  of  our  people. 

The  game  laws  are  practically  condensed  in  the  following; 
Ofycn  Season  1903- 1904 — 

Deer,  July  15  to  September  15. 

Doves,  July  i  to  February  15. 

Mountain   quail,   grouse,   sage  hen,   September   I   to   Feb- 
ruary 15. 

Valley  Quail,  Ducks,  Ibis,  Curlew,  Plover,  Rail,  October 
15  to  February  15. 

Tree  squirrels,  August  i  to  February  i. 

Trout,  April  i  to  November  i. 

Steelhead  trout,  April  i  to  September  10,  and  October  16 
to  February  i. 

Lobster  or  crawfish,  August   15  to   April    i.      (Not  less 
than  nine  and  one-half  inches  long.) 

Black  bass,  July  i  to  January  i. 

Shrimp,  September  i  to  Ivlay  i. 

Crab,  November  i  to  September  i.     (No  crab  taken  less 
than  six  inches  across  back.) 

Fine  for  violation  game  laws,  $25  to  $500,  and  imprison- 
ment. 

Fine   for  violation   fish   laws,  $20  to  $500,  and   imprison- 
ment. 

Smallest  fine  for  using  explosives  to  take  any  fish,  $250, 
and  imprisonment. 
It  is  Always  Unlazvful 

To  have  in  possession  doe  or  fawn  skins. 

To  take  or  kill,  at  any  time,  does,  fawns,  elk  or  antelope. 

To  take  or  kill  pheasants  or  bob-white  quail. 

To  run  deer  with  dogs  during  the  close  season. 

To  shoot  half  hour  before   sunrise,   or  half  hour  after 
sunset. 

To  take  or  destroy  nests  or  eggs  or  game  birds. 


251 

To   ship   game   in   concealed   packages   or   without   your 
name  and  address. 
Bag  Limit — 

Quail,   grouse,   snipe,   curlew,   ibis,   plover,   twenty-five  in 
one  day. 

Doves,  ducks,  fifty  in  one  day. 

Rails,  twenty  in  one  day. 

Deer  (male),  three  in  one  season. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

THE    OKNlTHOLOOISr    IN    SOUTHER.V    CALIFORNIA. 

Written  especially  for  this  Handbook  by  Professor  Joseph 
Grinncll,  of  Tliroop  Polytechnic  Institution,   Pasadena. 

The  ornithologist  in  Southern  California  has  a  field  for 
almost  unlimited  study.  There  is  a  great  variation  of 
topography  in  a  small  territory,  so  that  he  has  easy  access 
in  a  short  time  to  the  haunts  of  the  different  families  of 
birds.  The  seashore,  the  marsh,  the  prairie,  the  oak  forest, 
the  mesa,  the  mountain,  and  the  desert,  all  have  their  char- 
acteristic avian  inhabitants.  Nearly  three  hundred  and 
fifty  species  of  birds  are  found  in  Southern  California. 

To  the  casual  observer  in  our  suburban  towns,  probably 
the  most  noticable  is  the  mocking-bird.  This  famous  singer 
is  common  about  gardens  and  'orchards.  It  sings  from 
morning  till  night,  and  at  intervals  from  evening  till  morn- 
ing, as  the  housewife  is  willing  to  testify.  She  may  be 
an  amateur  chicken-raiser,  and  is  suddenly  awakened  in 
the  dead  of  night  by  a  muffled  squaking  and  peeping.  She 
rushes  out,  grabbing  a  broom  as  she  stumbles-  down  the 
back  stoop,  fully  expecting  to  encounter  a  coyote.  But 
everything  is  quiet  about  the  coop.  There  is  the  peeping 
again !  But  it  comes  from  a  mockingbird  in  the  depths  of 
a  cypress. 

The  linnet,  or  house  finch,  has  the  same  general  habits 
here  as  the  English  sparrow  in  the  East.  (As  yet  we  are 
not  pestered  by  the  latter  bird.)  The  linnet  builds  its  nest 
in  any  convenient  nook  or  vine  about  the  house,  and  he 
sings  a  delightfully  rollicking  air.  He  is  somewhat  dis- 
liked by  the  nursery  man  and  fruit  grower,  as  he  eats  a 


253 

good  deal  of  fruit  and  buds,  but  he  also  makes  away  with 
a  great  quantity  of  weed  seeds,  and  this  latter  advantage 
to  a  large  extent  compensates  for  the  former  disadvantage 
of  his  presence. 

Another  bird  abundant  about  Southern  California  towns 
is  the  fearless  little  goldfinch  or  wild  canary,  with  his  sad 
plaintive  note  and  yellow  or  green  plumage.  A  pretty  cup- 
shaped  nest  is  built  on  the  leafy  bough  of  some  shade  tree, 
often  only  two  or  three  feet  from  a  frequently-used  foot- 
path. The  female  lays  five  light-blue  eggs,  and  is  not  aided 
in  incubating  by  the  male.  The  latter  spends  his  time  sing- 
ing, while  the  female  often  answers  him  from  the  nest  with 
a  melancholy  twitter  of  her  own. 

Southern  California  is  comparatively  new,  so  that  but 
few  of  our  native  birds  have  become  accustomed  to  the 
society  of  man.  To  see  the  bird-life  of  California  one  must 
visit  the  lonely  wildernesses. 

On  the  dry,  cactus-covered  mesas,  such  as  portions  of 
San  Fernando  Valley,  one  will  find  the  cactus  wren  and 
road-runner  at  home.  The  cactus  wren  is  a  shy  bird  with 
a  low  wavering  note  something  like  the  hiss  of  a  snake. 
The  nest  is  conspicuously  placed  among  the  spiney  stems 
of  the  cactus,  about  three  feet  above  the  ground,  as  if  to 
taunt  with  its  inaccessibility  the  expectant  marauder.  The 
parent  birds  know  full  well  that  no  snake  or  other  animal 
ever  attempts  to  reach  this  fortress,  they  of  course  not 
counting  on  the  small  boy  with  a  long  stick.  The  nest  is  a 
large  purse-shaped  structure  with  the  entrance  in  one  side. 
The  main  materials  used  are  long  fine  grasses,  though  the 
nest-cavity  is  thickly  lined  with  feathers.  Five  salmon- 
colored  eggs  are  laid. 

The  rocky  canyon,  with  its  rushing  stream  and  many 
cascades,  affords  a  home  for  the  water  ouzel  and  canyon 
wren.      The   former   bird   is   the   very   spirit   of   the   ever- 


254 

phiiijiiiiK  I)r<)<>k.  lie  has  a  nervous  air,  and  is  never  con- 
tented with  one  perch  for  a  moment.  He  has  a  twitchy 
"bob,"  or  "tilt,"  which  he  indulges  in  at  every  change  of 
position,  this  being  exceedingly  often.  The  water  ouzel 
lias  a  hoarse,  resounding  note  which  he  utters  at  short  in- 
tervals, as  he  bounces  from  rock  to  rock  through  the  spray 
at  the  foot  of  the  falls.  His  nest  is  a  dome-shaped  affair 
with  an  opening  in  one  side.  It  is  composed  of  moss,  and 
is  placed  on  some  projecting  rock  under  a  waterfall,  often 
where  the  spray  keeps  it  constantly  damp.  Four  or  five 
white  eggs  arc  laid.  The  water  ouzel,  or  dipper,  as  it  is 
sometimes  called,  is  of  a  plain  dark-brown  color,  and  about 
the  sii:e  of  a  robin. 

The  canyon  wren  has  much  the  same  mien  as  the  dipper, 
l)ut  lie  is  smaller  and  differently  colored.  He  is  bright 
■  chestnut-red,  with  a  pure  white  throat.  A  number  of  can- 
yon wrens  arc  always  to  be  seen  in  Rubio  Canyon  on  the 
Mount  Lowe  railway  where  the  stairs  and  walks  wind 
over  Ribbon  Rock  Falls.  The  nests  are  placed  far  up  in 
niches  of  the  canyon-wall.  The  canyon  wren  has  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  of  bird  songs.  It  is  a  delightful  whist- 
ling melody  composed  of  a  series  of  clear  undulating  notes, 
beginning  on  a  high  key,  and  descending  regularly  to  an 
abrupt  low  note.  The  common  call-note  is  harsh  but 
resonant. 

The  vircos  compose  a  family  by  itself.  They  are  verj' 
shy  and  dull-colored,  having  a  dark-green  plumage.  There- 
fore they  remain  quite  unnoticed,  though  abundant,  and 
have  no  local  name.  There  are  four  species  in  Los  Angeles 
County,  and  there  are  one  or  two  more  in  the  desert 
mountains  of  the  southeastern  part  of  the  State.  The 
vireos,  though  so  dully  colored,  are  beautiful  singers,  and 
one  may  hear  them  on  every  side,  but  not  see  a  single  one. 
They  like  thick-foliaged  trees  such  as  oaks  and  alders,  and 


255 

ill  these  the  neat,  pensile  nest  is  hung.  They  dislike  to 
iliave  their  homes  disturhed  in  the  least,  and  often  desert 
the  nests  if  they  are  touched.  I  once  found  a  Least  vireo's 
nest  suspended  from  a  twig  of  the  poison  oak  or  sumach, 
two  feet  above  the  ground.  The  female  bird  was  sitting 
and  I  had  to  make  considerable  racket  to  scare  her  off, 
without  touching  the  nest.  There  were  only  two  eggs. 
Three  days  later  I  revisited  the  nest  and  the  bird  was  there, 
but  on  the  ground  under  the  nest  were  the  two  eggs, 
broken.  I  scared  the  bird  off,  and  found  two  other  eggs 
in  the  nest.  The  bird  seemingly  thought  that  the  first  two 
eggs  were  spoiled  because  I  had  looked  at  them,  and  so  she 
had  flung  them  out. 

The  Californian  thrasher,  or,  as  it  is  more  commonly 
called,  the  sickle-billed  thrush,  is  one  of  our  best  song 
birds.  It  inhabits  the  foothills  and  canyon  sides,  where 
there  is  a  straggling  growth  of  chaparral.  The  nest  is  a 
large  structure  composed  of  coarse  sticks,  and  lined  with 
horse  hair.  It  is  placed  in  a  thick  low  bush.  The  eggs  are 
three  in  number,  blue,  dotted  with  reddish.  The  curve- 
billed  thrush  is  in  reality  nearly  as  much  of  a  "mocking- 
bird" as  the  one  bearing  that  name.  He  imitates  the  cries 
and  songs  of  other  birds,  and  often  intermingles  them  with 
his  own  notes,  thus  producing  a  very  harmonious  song.  One 
day  in  the  spring  I  was  going  through  a  bunch  of  willows 
and  oaks  in  an  arroyo,  when  I  heard  ahead  of  me  two  birds 
singing.  At  first  thought  I  concluded  that  they  were  both 
thrashers,  but  on  listening  again  I  decided  the}'  were  mock- 
ingbirds. On  stealing  through  the  foliage  till  I  had  a  full 
view,  I  found  that  one  was  a  mockingbird  and  the  other  a 
Californian  thrasher.  I  stood  listening  as  each  bird  went 
through  with  his  particular  repertoire.  On  the  whole,  I 
could  detect  no  essential  difiference  in  the  songs.  But,  as 
a  usual  thing,  the  thrasher's  song  is  the  softer  and  prettier 


256 

of  llic  two.     The  Californian  tliraslicr  is  a  brownish  bird 
with  a  long  curved  bill. 

Southern  California  has  six  species  of  hummingbirds. 
All  are  small  with  iridescent  plumage.  Most  of  the  "hum- 
mers" reside  here  only  in  the  summer;  but  one  species  re- 
mains throughout  the  winter  also.  They  build  beautiful 
little  nests  attached  to  twigs  far  out  at  the  extremities  of 
swaying  branches.  Two  white  eggs  are  laid,  each  less  than 
half  an  inch  in  length.  The  females  do  all  the  nest-build- 
ing, incubating,  and  even  the  feeding  of  the  young.  The 
'hummers"  are  much  more  persistent  in  protecting  their 
homes  than  the  vireos.  I  will  relate  one  instance.  Last 
February,  about  the  twentieth,  I  discovered  a  humming- 
bird building  her  nest  far  out  on  a  horizontal  limb  of  a 
pepper  tree.  The  nest  was  finished  and  in  due  time  con- 
tained two  eggs.  The  weather  had  been  fine  so  far,  and  I 
fully  expected  that  the  bird  would  be  successful  in  raising 
her  brood.  But  one  day  about  IMarch  first  a  heavy  wind 
arose.  At  noon  I  went  out  to  see  how  my  "hummer"  was 
getting  along.  I  found  the  nest  was  becoming  much  torn. 
The  rim  next  to  the. wind  was  blown  up,  and  had  puffed 
out  over  the  head  of  the  bird,  who  was  patiently  sitting  on 
the  eggs.  Part  of  the  nest  seemed  in  immediate  danger  of 
being  torn  away.  So  I  sat  down  awaiting  results.  A  sud- 
den gust  of  wind  did  nearly  carry  the  nest  away,  but  dur- 
ing the  lull  that  followed  the  bird  flew  off  to  a  spider  web 
on  the  sheltered  side  of  a-  hedge.  She  plucked  a  few 
strands,  and,  returning,  commenced  to  bind  the  nest  down 
to  the  limb.  This  she  repeated  two  or  three  times  before 
the  next  gust.  I  thought  that  she  would  keep  her  home 
safe  after  all,  and  toward  evening  I  again  visited  the  nest. 
The  wind  was  blowing  harder,  but  every  few  minutes  the 
hummer  would  leave  the  nest  for  more  web.  Next  morn- 
ing the  wind  had  died  away,  and  I  found  her  contentedly 


257 


sittin.E^  on  the  nest  which  she  had  partially  rebuilt.  Two 
clays  later  I  noticed  that  the  "hummer"  was  not  on  the  nest, 
and  after  waiting  around  awhile,  I  climbed  up  to  it.  The 
eggs  were  cold  and  dead,  as  probably  the  exposure  during 
the  wind  while  the  bird  was  mending  the  nest  had  chilled 
them  beyond  restoration.  A  week  later  another  nest  was 
commenced  in  a  tree  near  by,  and  I  am  glad  to  say  that  I 
last  saw  the  owner,  I  am  sure  the  same  hummingbird,  feed- 
ing the  3'oung,  which  were  fully  fledged  and  flying  about. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

DRIVING   IN    SOUTHERN    CALIFORNIA. 

Few  countries  in  the  world  afford  as  good  opportunities 
for  delightful  driving,  no  matter  in  what  kind  of  a  con- 
veyance, as  Southern  California,  I  have  driven  thousands 
of  miles  over  all  parts  of  the  State.  Of  course  in  the  dry 
summer  it  is  not  so  pleasant  as  in  the  delicious  coolness  of 
the  winter  and  spring,  when  the  rains  have  quenched  all 
of  the  dust,  and  all  shrubs,  trees  and  vegetable  life  have 
renewed  their  youth  and  clothed  themselves  afresh  in  vernal 
joyousness.  From  Los  Angeles  and  Pasadena  there  are 
many  drives,  as  for  instance,  to  Santa  Monica,  Long  Beach, 
San  Pedro,  Redondo,  or  any  other  of  the  coast-side  resorts. 
In  round  figures  the  distances  are  in  the  neighborhood  of 
20  miles,  thus  keeping  the  drive  well  within  the  compass  of 
a  long  day's  outing.  The  drives  to  Baldwin's  Ranch,  tak- 
ing in  the  San  Gabrial  winery,  Alhambra,  the  Mission,  and 
all  the  points  of  interest  at  Baldwin's,  is  world-famed.  It 
is  also  a  pleasant  drive  up  to  San  Fernando  Mission.  From 
Pasadena  a  good  drive  is  through  La  Canyada  to  San  Fer- 
nando, or  by  Eagle  Rock  and  Verdugo  to  Glendale. 

I  have  driven  from  Pasadena  to  Warner's  Ranch,  going 
by  way  of  Pomona,  Claremont,  San  Bernardino,  Redlands 
to  Hemet.  Thence  into  Strawberry'  Valley,  with  a  side  trip 
to  the  great  Hemet  Dam  and  lake,  over  into  the  Cahuilla 
Valley  where  dwells  Ramona,  then  to  the  Hot  Springs  by 
way  of  Oak  Grove.  Returning,  one  may  cross  the  moun- 
tains into  the  beautiful  Pala  Valley  and  out  by  San  Luis 
Rey,  thence  to  Oceanside  and  home  by  the  coast,  passing 
through  San  Juan  Capistrano  and  San  Gabriel. 


259 

Scores  of  people  annually  drive  from  Los  Angeles  to  the 
Yosemite  Valley,  camping  out  on  the  way.  Others  make 
arrangements  beforehand  to  stop  at  towns  or  wayside  hotels 
and  thus  free  themselves  from  much  care  of  carrying  food, 
bedding  and  all  other  needful  camping-out  equipage. 

From  San  Diego  there  afe  many  beautiful  drives,  such  as 
out  to  the  Old  Mission  around  by  Pacific  Beach  to  Point 
Loma,  to  La  Jolla,  to  Chula  Vista  and  the  Sweetwater  Dam, 
The  drive  into  El  Cajon  Valley  and  to  Lakeside  is  delight- 
ful, as  is  the  ride  to  Warner's  Ranch,  passing  through  San- 
ta Ysabel,  where  the  little  brush  chapel  of  the  Indians  still 
remains. 

Riverside  has  several  noted  drives  as  also  has  Redlands, 
and  Ontario,  Pomona,  Santa  Barbara,  Long  Beach,  Santa 
Monica  and  all  the  rest.  Indeed,  nowhere  in  the  United 
States,  at  least,  are  there  better  opportunities  offered  of 
climate,  scenery,  foliage,  beauty  in  floral  displays,  surround- 
ings of  mountains,  foothills,  ocean,  islands  and  valleys  as 
here,  hence  the  wise  traveler  will  plan  beforehand  to  de- 
vote some  of  his  time  in  this  favored  land  to  driving. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

I'ETROI.EUM     IN    SOUTHERN    CALIFORNIA. 

Oil  is  no  new  thing  to  California.  Even  as  early  as  1852 
Governor  Pico  distilled  oil,  and  in  1855  Morrell  established 
a  plant  in  Santa  Barbara.  In  1865  there  were  sixty-five 
oil  companies,  with  a  nominal  capital  of  $45,000,000  in  the 
State,  with  stock  wliich  actually  sold  as  high  as  $1,000  and 
$1,500  per  share. 

The  earliest  practical  work,  however,  was  done  by  the 
Puente  Oil  Company,  near  Puente,  Los  Angeles  Co.,  and 
at  Newhall.  It  was  in  1892,  however,  that  oil  development 
began  with  a  vigor  purely  Californian.  Oil  was  discovered 
that  year  in  Los  Angeles,  and  by  1901  i,3CX)  companies  had 
been  organized,  witli  a  nominal  capital  of  $400,000,000. 
There  is  now  no  doubt  but  that  the  whole  of  California  is 
a  petroleum  bed. 

One  portion  of  Los  Angeles  residence  district  has  been 
entirely  destroyed  by  the  unsightly  oil  derricks  needed  for 
boring,  and  travelers  visit  this  section  daily,  where  vast 
quantities  of  oil  are  being  pumped  up  daily.  Around  the 
freight  depots  and  yards  vast  areas  are  covered  with  im- 
mense storage  tanks,  and  passengers  on  the  cars  will  notice 
the  constant  passing  of  long  trains  of  oil  cars  and  the  fact 
that  practically  every  engine  in  Southern  California  burns 
oil  instead  of  coal.  The  advantages  of  this  are  many. 
There  are  no  ashes  and  cinders  and  the  smoke  is  far  less 
dense  and  constant. 

The  oil  wells  at  Summerland  have  been  elsewhere  referred 
to.    See  index. 

The   State    Mining   Bureau   has   had    its   experts    in    the 


field,  studying  the  theories  of  the  scientists  and  collecting 
every  possible  kind  of  facts.  The  chief  of  these  is  Pro- 
fessor W.  L.  Watts,  to  whose  several  interesting  and 
instructive  monographs  the  curious  traveler  is  referred  for 
further  information.  A  newspaper  is  also  published  in 
Los  Angeles  devoted  to  this  industry. 

CALIFORNIA     MINERAL    PRODUCTS. 

(Reprinted  from  Sunset  ]Magazine.) 

State  ^lineralogist  Lewis  E.  Anbury  reports  the  yield 
and  value  of  the  mineral  substances  of  California  for  1901 
as  follows,  according  to  returns  received  at  the  State  Mining 
Bureau,  San  Francisco,  in  answer  to  inquiries  sent  to 
producers : 

Product.  Yield.  Value. 

Antimony 50  $8,350 

Asbestos,  tons    no  4,400 

Asphalt,  tons   21,364  312,219 

Bituminous  rock,  tons  24,052  66,354 

Borax  (crude  and  refined),  tons.  22,221  982,380 

Cement,  tons 71,800  159,842 

Chrome,  tons   130  i,950 

Brick,    thousand    130,766  860,488 

Pottery,  tons    55,679  39,144 

Coal,  tons    150,724  401,772 

Copper,  pounds    34-931,785  5,501,782 

Fullers'  earth,  tons   1,000  I9,500 

Glass  sand,  tons   4,500  I5,750 

Gold    ....  16,989,044 

Granite,  cubic  feet  214,943  519,285 

Graphite,  tons    64  4,480 

Gypsum,  tons  3,875  38,750 

Lead,  pounds  720,500  28,820 


dG2 

Product.  Yield.  Value. 

Lithia  mica,  tons    i.ioo  27,500 

Lime,  barrels   317,383  334,688 

Limestone,  tons  l(>,^y7  99.445 

Macadam,  tons    360,883  313,974 

Manganese,  tons   425  4,405 

Magncsite,  tons    4,726  43,057 

Marble,  cubic  feet    2,945  4,630 

Mineral  paint,  tons  325  875 

Mineral  water,  gallons   1,555,328  559,057 

Natural  gas    ....  92,034 

Paving  blocks,  thousand   1,920  41,075 

Petroleum,  barrels   7,710,315  2,961,102 

Platinum,  ounces    250  3,200 

Pyrites,  tons   4o78  18,429 

Quartz  crystals,  pounds   4,000  I7,500 

Quartz  sand,  tons    500  500 

Quicksilver,  flasks   26,720  1,285,014 

Rubble,  tons  169,513  327.063 

Salt,   tons    126,218  366,376 

Sandstone,  cubic  feet 226,741  192,132 

Serpentine,  cubic  feet   89  890 

Soda,  tons    8,000  400,000 

Silver   1,229,356 

Slate,  squares    5,ioo  38,25c 

Soapstone,  tons   10  119 

Tourmaline,  pounds    500  20,oor 

Turquoise,  pounds    500  20,000 

Total    $34,355,981 

In   1900  the  total  product  was  valued  at  $32,622,945.  so 
that  the  increase  for  1901  is  $1,733,036. 
The  mineral  production  of  California  for  the  fifteen  years 


203 

from  1887  to  1901  is  as  follows,  as  compiled  especially  for 
Sunset  from  the  records  of  the  State  Mining  Bureau  by 
Professor  G.  E.  Bailey: 


Product.  Amount. 

Antimony,  tons   680 

Asbestos,  tons   582 

Asphalt,  tons   189,323 

Bituminous  rock,  tons..  563,538 

Borax,  tons   123,536 

Cement,  tons    116,576 

Chrome    .... 

Brick,   thousand    932,824 

Pottery,   tons    867,352 

Coal,  tons    1,557,582 

Copper,  pounds 136,464,680 

Fullers'  earth,  tons  ....  2,120 

Gold    

Granite    .... 

Graphite,  tons   64 

Gypsum,  tons   41,094 

Infusorial   earth,   tons.  .  145 

Iron  ore,  tons    450 

Lead,  tons    7,266 

Lithia  mica,  tons   1,664 

Lime  and  limestone.  ...  .... 

Macadam,  tons  4,186,435 

Magnesite,    tons 22,867 

Manganese,  tons  7,730 

Marble    

Mineral  paint,  tons  ....  6,221 

Mineral  water,  gallons.  14,047,814 

Natural   gas    .... 


No.  of 

Years 

Value. 

Retrns. 

79,805 

II 

27,800 

13 

2,919.964 

15 

2,044,173 

15 

10,458,649 

15 

789,248 

10 

304,750 

12 

6,111,005 

9 

674,279 

15 

4,069,548 

15 

19,788,337 

15 

35,650 

4 

213,990,369 

15 

7,885,185 

15 

4,480 

I 

361,096 

15 

5,575 

4 

3,500 

3 

552,467 

15 

43,100 

4 

5,210,070 

15 

3,336,125 

10 

228,786 

15 

69,646 

15 

671,282 

15 

100,035 

12 

3,835480 

IS 

870,402 

14 

264 

No.  of 
Years 

Product.                           Amount.  Value.  Retrns. 

Onyx     91,400  10 

Paving  blocks    ....  72,71 1  9 

Petroleum,  barrels 25,323.307  22,375,808  15 

Platinum,  ounces   3,3(^7  18,501  15 

Pyrites,   tons    19,620  98,182  4 

Quartz  crystals    ....  35,500  2 

Quicksilver,  flasks    ....          434,977  17,918,249  15 

Rubble,  tons  3,344,941  3,124,771  9 

Salt,  tons    809,080  2,225,576  15 

Sand  glass,  tons   10,200  21,950  4 

Sandstone    ....  1,574,381  15 

Serpentine,  cubic  feet.  .             9,689  20,390  7 

Silver    ....  12,531,466  15 

Slate,  squares  32,860  207,739  13 

Soapstone,  tons   435  18,244  3 

Soda,   tons    37,430  1,096,500  8 

Sulphur,  tons   2  50  i 

Tin,   pounds    287,289  59,964  2 

Tourmaline    ....  20,500  2 

Turquoise,  pounds    ....       1,000,000  40,000  2 

Total    $346,023,688 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

BEES  FOR  PROFIT  IN  SOUTHERN  CALIFORNIA. 

By  Bertha   H.   Smith. 
Extracted  from  "Sunset"  Magazine,  August,  1903. 

There  is  hardly  a  hillslope  of  Southern  California  but 
boasts  its  few  colonies  of  bees.  The  more  favored  places, 
those  where  sage  thickets  bloom  and  other  wild  flowers 
grow  in  profusion,  have  carefully  tended  apiaries  of  sev- 
eral hundred  colonies.  Thanks  to  superior  natural  advan- 
tages, California  has  become  the  leading  honey-producing 
section,  not  only  of  this  country,  but  of  the  world. 

Bee  culture  is  a  typical  California  industry.  Its  simplicity 
appeals  to  the  leisure-loving  spirit  of  the  true  Californian, 
who  finds  in  it  not  only  an  easy  way  of  making  a  living, 
but  the  fullest  opportunity  for  leading  an  outdoor  life. 
During  eight  months  of  the  year,  from  the  last  of  July  until 
the  first  of  April,  there  is  little  for  the  bee-keeper  to  do. 
One  man  can  give  necessary  care  to  two  hundred  colonies 
by  working  one  or  two  days  a  week. 

Except  in  especially  dry  and  unfortunate  years  the  bees 
can  always  find  honey  enough  for  food  throughout  the  en- 
tire winter  season.  This  is  perhaps  the  chief  advantage 
California  offers,  for  in  all  other  sections  it  is  necessary  to 
feed  bees  during  that  time. 

When  the  early  winter  rains  have  changed  the  summer 
browns  to  green  and  spread  the  hills  with  a  first  bright 
carpet  of  wild  flowers,  there  is  increased  activity  among  the 
busy  bees.  The  foraging  workers  bustle  importantly  into 
lIu'  hive  with  uncommonly  large  loads,  after  having  been 
gone  but  a  little  time ;  the  home-keepers  present  their  queen 


266 

with  a  larger  supply  of  royal  food;  and  her  majesty,  in 
grateful  response,  increases  her  efforts  from  the  laying  of 
a  few  hundred  eggs  a  day  to  the  busy  season  number  of 
three  or  four  thousand. 

Then  the  wise  bee-keeper  provides  himself  with  new 
hives  and  equipment  for  the  swarms  which  will  shortly  ap- 
pear. Early  in  April  a  swarming  fever  seizes  upon  the  bees, 
and  work  has  begun  in  earnest  for  the  bee  man.  Every 
bright  day  will  call  out  from  one  to  fifteen  swarms.  The 
bees  pour  in  a  dark  stream  from  the  hive,  and  make  for 
some  camping  spot  selected  by  their  advance  agents.  Usual- 
ly they  cluster  upon  a  well-trimmed  tree  which  the  apiarist 
has  reserved  for  that  purpose  near  the  apiary. 

The  hive  in  common  use  is  a  two-story  affair.  The  two 
boxes  contain  ten  frames  each,  which  the  bees  fill  with 
comb  as  they  need  it.  The  lower  box  is  the  brood 
chamber  and  contains  the  queen,  her  dutiful  and  attentive 
court,  and  the  nurse  bees. 

Surrounding  the  queen  is  a  commissary  detachment  of 
workers,  who  supply  her  with  a  partly  digested  and  very 
rich  food.  In  three  days  the  egg  hatches  into  a  worm-like 
bit  which  must  be  fed.  The  nurse  bees  keep  the  babies 
warm  and  feed  them  a  mixture  of  honey  and  pollen. 

Meanwhile,  other  workers  are  scurrj-ing  among  the  flow- 
ers, sipping  the  perfumed  sweets.  The  nectar  clings  to  tiny 
hairs  on  the  honey-gathering  tool,  which  is  rolled  to  the 
mouth,  the  nectar  passing  into  a  first  stomach,  the  honey 
bag.  There  it  changes  from  nectar  to  honey.  Returning 
to  the  hive  with  a  load,  the  bee  reverses  the  gathering  pro- 
cess, leaving  the  honey  in  a  food  cell.  Some  of  the  am- 
bitious fellows  bring  in  a  double  load,  both  honey  and  pol- 
len, and  drop  at  the  hive  entrance,  staggering  witli  the 
weight. 

In  former  davs  the  bee  was  allowed  to  make  the  entire 


267 

cell  as  well  as  the  honey ;  but  as  it  takes  twenty-five  pounds 
of  honey  to  make  one  pound  of  wax,  the  bee  man  has 
learned  to  make  the  foundations  for  the  cell  work  and 
place  them  in  frames  for  the  bees.  This  foundation  is  a 
thin  layer  of  pure  beeswax  with  each  side  stamped  with  the 
little  six-sided  cell  foundation.  Some  bee-keepers  fill  but 
half  the  frame  with  foundations,  leaving  the  other  half  for 
the  bees  to  finish. 

The  up-to-date  bee-keeper  prevents  over  swarming  by 
providing  his  colonies  with  ample  room  and  foundations  for 
building  comb,  for  food  and  for  honey  storing. 

The  upper  part  of  the  hive  is  the  store  house.  When  the 
bees  begin  to  fill  it,  the  bee-keeper  must  get  his  honey  house 
ready  for  use.  Once  a  week  the  bees  have  their  treasure 
house  full  of  stolen  gold,  and  just  that  often  must  the  bee 
man  rob  it.  Three  men  can  do  the  work  of  two  hundred 
colonies. 

.  All  day  long  one  man,  veiled  and  gloved,  goes  with  a 
wheelbarrow  from  hive  to  hive.  First  giving  the  bees  a  puff 
of  smoke  to  improve  their  manners,  he  takes  the  cover  from 
the  upper  box  and  removes  the  frames  of  honey.  These  he 
places  in  a  box  on  the  barrow  and  takes  to  the  nearby 
honey  house.  There  the  frames  are  hung  across  a  long, 
zinc-lined  box  on  legs,  and  a  man  with  a  sharp  two-edged 
knife  makes  a  deft  stroke  on  each  side  of  the  comb,  re- 
moving the  cell  cover.  This  wax  and  a  little  honey  fall 
into  the  box  and  are  drained  into  a  tub.  The  honey  is 
then  strained  and  put  into  the  honey  tank,  while  the  wax 
is  melted  and  saved  for  making  new  foundations  or  for  mar- 
ket. 

The  uncapped  frames  of  honey  are  put  into  the  extractor. 
This  is  a  circular  affair  in  which  the  frames  of  honey  are 
revolved  by  a  hand  crank,  the  circular  motion  causing  the 
honey  to  fly  out  of  the  cells  against  the  sides.     The  honey 


268 

drains  from  the  extractor,  is  strained  and  placed  in  large 
tanks,  where  it  stands  for  a  few  days  to  ripen.  After  the 
watery  liquid  has  risen  to  the  top  and  been  skimmed  off 
the  honey  is  put  into  cans  for  shipment.  The  frames  with 
tiicir  empty  cells  are  returned  to  the  hives  to  be  filled  again 
with  honey  and  capped  by  the  bees. 

From  the  middle  of  May  to  the  end  of  July  there  is  no 
break  in  this  bee  ranch  routine.  Fifteen  pounds  of  honey 
per  week  during  the  best  part  of  the  season  and  ten  during 
the  remainder  will  be  taken  from  each  colony ;  and  from  two 
hundred  colonies  the  ten  weeks'  yield  of  honey  is  frorn  fif- 
teen to  thirty  thousand  pounds,  which  at  from  four  to  six 
cents  per  pound  nets  a  neat  profit  with  small  investment  and 
little  labor.  In  fact,  the  percentage  of  profit  is  very  great  as 
an  apiary  of  two  hundred  colonies  of  bees  in  good  condi- 
tion is  worth  about  one  thousand  dollars. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

A  FEW   MINOR  INDUSTRIES. 

Of  the  major  industries  of  California  little  need  be 
written  in  this  handbook.  They  have  been  well  described 
in  a  hundred  publications  devoted  especially  to  them. 
Grain,  fruit,  lumber,  mineral,  wine,  and  other  industries  are 
well  known.  This  chapter  is  to  suggest  some  of  the  won- 
derful variety  of  possibilities  Southern  California  affords 
in  lesser  fields. 

Pampas  Flumes. — At  Santa  Barbara,  Whittier,  etc.,  pam- 
pas plumes  are  grown  for  profit.  The  plant  is  a  hardy  one, 
growing  in  masses  or  hills,  and  sometimes  attains  the 
height  of  twenty  feet,  with  a  diameter  equally  large,  with 
a  weight  of  a  full  ton.  The  plants  are  produced  from  seed, 
or  by  dividing  the  female  plants — those  that  grow  the 
plumes.  Young  plants  of  two  or  three  years  of  age  pro- 
duce the  best  plumes.  They  are  trimmed  early  in  Sep- 
tember, before  the  plumes  appear.  When  cut,  the  husk  is 
removed  and  the  plumes  are  then  spread  in  long  rows  on 
the  drying  ground,  where  they  remain  for  about  three 
days,  being  turned  and  shaken  daily.  They  are  then  packed 
away  in  the  drying  sheds,  where  they  remain  for  ten  days 
to  two  weeks,  when  they  are  graded,  packed  and  sent  to 
market. 

The  market  value  is  about  $14.00  per  thousand. 

Groiving  Tannic  Plants  and  Trees. — The  rapid  exhaus- 
tion of  the  trees  whose  bark  has  hitherto  been  used  for 
tanning  has  demanded  the  discovery  of  substitutes.  One  of 
the  best  of  these  is  canaigre,  or  tanners'  dock.  For  two 
centuries  its  tanning  qualities  have  been  known  and  appre- 
ciated in  Mexico,  yet,  though  it  is  indigenous  to  California, 
it  is  but  recently  it  has  been  grown  and   utilized  to  any 


270 

cxtciU.  IL  grows  wild  throughout  the  whole  of  Southern 
California  and  can  easily  and  readily  be  domesticated.  It 
does  best  on  low,  sandy  and  gravelly  soils  near  rivers  or 
water  courses.  The  plant  rises  from  one  to  three  feet 
high,  and  the  roots  grow  in  clusters  of  three  or  four.  It 
stands  drought  like  cactus,  remaining  dormant  for  several 
seasons  and  then  growing  again.  The  old  roots  are  black 
and  rich  in  tannic  acid.  Three  tons  of  green  root  will 
make  one  of  dry,  and  thus  yields  half  a  ton  of  extract, 
holding  from  sixty  to  sixty-five  per  cent,  of  tannin.  There 
is  great  scope  for  this  industry  in  Southern  California  for 
intelligent  and  patient  farmers. 

The  wattle  (acacia)  gives  a  bark  that  is  twice  as  rich 
in  tannin  as  oak  bark.  That  shipped  from  Australia  com- 
mands a  price  of  from  $32  to  $42  per  ton.  Much  arid 
land  in  Southern  California  could  well  be  utilized  by 
growing  these  tannin  bearing  acacias.  The  wood-  will  find 
a  ready  market  and  the  bark  also. 

Reptile  a)id  Insect  Souvenirs — To  call  this  an  industry 
may  seem  peculiar  to  manj-,  yet  it  is  a  great  source  of 
revenue  to  many  people.  It  requires  from  five  to  eight  or 
even  ten  thousand  horned  toads  to  meet  the  Pasadena  de- 
mand alone.  It  is  not  difficult  to  catch  them.  They  are 
peaceable  and  oflfer  no  resistance  and  are  perfectly  harmless. 
The  largest  specimens  are  often  six  to  eight  inches  from 
head  to  the  tip  of  the  scraggy  tail,  while  the  smallest  are 
but  an  inch  long.  They  vary  in  color,  those  found  on  the 
Mohave  Desert  being  lighter  than  those  of  darker  ground. 
They  are  a  mottled  brown  and  tan,  while  the  stomach  is 
an  ochre  yellow. 

Put  in  a  jar,  chloroformed,  cut  open,  thoroughly  cleansed, 
cured  with  a  preparation  of  arsenic,  stuffed  with  sawdust 
(the  tails  and  legs  with  cotton),  put  aside  to  cure  for  two 
months,    mounted    and    offered    for    sale    is    their    histor>'. 


271 

The  scientific  name  of  the  horned  toad  is  phrynosoma,  or 
crowned  tapayain. 

Gathering  TaranUdas,  etc.,  for  Souvenirs. — Mrs.  Helen 
Lukens  Jones,  in  Sunset,  says  gathering  curious  insects  by 
tlie  thousand,  putting  them  through  a  process  of  taxidermy 
and  merchandising  them  for  the  edification  of  curiosity 
seekers,  is  one  of  the  most  unique  developments  of  Hfe  in 
the  far  west. 

The  headquarters  of  this  remarkable  industry  is  located 
in  Pasadena,  California,  and  from  an  unpretentious  and 
entirely  experimental  beginning  several  years  ago,  the 
business  has  expanded  into  immense  proportions,  over  ten 
thousand  bugs,  insects  and  snakes  are  disposed  of  each 
year,  yet  the  demand  exceeds  the  supply. 

From  early  spring  till  late  fall  this  strange  craft  is  in  the 
height  of  activity,  and  a  whole  year's  accumulation  of  re- 
pellant  nature  creatures  are  harvested,  the  crop  being  dried 
and  stored  quite  as  seriously  and  carefully  as  fruit  and 
grain  are  prepared  for  market.  The  stock  in  trade  con- 
sists of  centipedes,  scorpions,  tarantulas,  tarantula  hawks, 
trap-door  spiders,  horned  toads  and  rattlesnakes,  the  skin 
of  the  latter  being  used  for  belts,  purses  and  various  other 
things  supposed  to  enhance  the  charm  of  the  feminine  toilet. 

The  work  of  collecting  these  formidable  bugs  is  usually 
turned  over  to  the  small  boys  of  Southern  California,  who 
enter  into  the  spirit  of  the  chase  with  great  enthusiasm,  for 
it  means  a  jaunt  in  the  vine-tangled,  rock-piled  bed  of  the 
arroyo  seco,  where  centipedes  and  scorpions  hide  in  damp 
shadows,  a  pilgrimage  over  foothills,  through  luxuriant 
meadows,  or  into  canyon  depths  where  rattlesnakes  bask 
on  the  sun-warmed  boulders,  or  a  tramp  across  the  wild 
flower  fields  where  horned  toads  play  hide  and  seek  among 
the  blossoms.  Late  in  summer  these  youngsters  animate 
the  sun-scorched  adobe  areas  where  tarantulas  wade  through 


272 

tlic  liot  black  (lust,  and  tarantula  bawks  skim  through  the 
air  in  search  of  prey.  Besides  the  actual  pleasures  of  an 
expedition,  the  financial  proceeds  are  considerable,  for  an 
active  boy  can  easily  catch  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  bugs 
a  day.  The  lads  get  five  cents  each  for  centipedes,  and 
about  two  cents  each  for  tarantulas,  horned  toads,  scor- 
pions and  tarantula  hawks.  The  trap-door  spiders  bring 
considerably  more,  while  rattlesnakes  are  worth  from  fifty 
cents  to  one  dollar  and  a  half,  according  to  the  size  and 
quality  of  the  skin. 

There  are  certain  seasons  for  gathering  bugs  as  well  as 
for  harvesting  fruit,  and  in  March,  April  and  May  the 
centipede  crop  is  reaped.  The  young  hunter's  artillery 
consists  of  a  pair  of  home-made  wooden  pinchers  about 
eighteen  inches  in  length,  and  a  five-gallon  oil  can  with 
the  top  thrown  half  open.  Centipedes  in  captivity  have  a 
moral  antipathy  for  one  another,  killing  and  eating  their 
own  kind  with  the  most  unscrupulous  abandonment.  To 
avoid  complete  destruction  of  the  catch,  the  boys  line  the 
bottoms  of  their  cans  with  scraps  of  paper,  and  into  this 
rustling  heap  the  worms  are  placed,  the  paper  forming 
barricades  that  effectually  separate  the  enemies. 

The  search  for  centipedes  is  carried  on  systematically, 
and  the  rock  clothing  of  Mother  Earth  is  tossed  about  and 
disheveled  with  a  most  deliberate  unconcern.  No  stone 
or  boulder  is  passed  without  being  rolled  over,  unless  it 
is  too  big  and  obstinate  for  the  youngsters  to  manage. 
Sometimes  three  or  four  small  boys  will  pull  and  tug  at  an 
immense  rock,  while  another  stands  in  readiness  to  nab 
the  astonished  centipede  with  his  pinchers.  Uniting  their 
efforts  they  make  the  adamant  boulder  fairly  stand  on  its 
haunches.  Underneath,  on  the  damp,  cool  earth,  the  youth- 
ful hunters  find  myriads  of  creeping,  crawling  things,  and  it 
is  in  such  places  that  the  largest  centipedes  are  found. 


273 

California  centipedes  are  from  six  to  eight  inches  in 
length,  and  average  fort3'-two  legs  and  twenty-one  seg- 
ments. Each  leg  is  terminated  by  a  formidable  brown 
thorn,  and  if  the  worm  is  angered  he  simultaneously  thrusts 
every  thorn  into  the  flesh  of  his  victim,  causing  excruciat- 
ing pain.  The  effect  is  that  of  having  a  red-hot  needle 
drawn  over  the  skin,  and  the  crimson  markings  caused  by 
the  poisonous  feet  do  not  dim  in  hue  for  many  months. 
The  weapons  that  do  the  most  mischief,  however,  are 
formed  from  the  second  pair  of  feet,  which  are  modified 
into  a  pair  of  powerful  claws,  terminated  by 'a  sharp, 
strong  hook  in  each  side,  which  are  perforated  and  traversed 
by  a  little  channel  leading  from  the  poison  gland.  These 
claws  come  together  under  the  flesh  with  a  hold  so  tenacious 
that  the  centipede  sometimes  has  to  be  torn  to  pieces  before 
he  will  loosen  his  grip. 

When  the  boys  arrive  at  the  shop  in  Pasadena,  after  a 
prosperous  hunt,  their  cans  brimming  with  the  wriggling 
harvest,  the  worms  are  removed  and  immersed  in  chloro- 
form, some  other  liquid  being  added  to  keep  them  from 
turning  black. 

The  trap-door  spiders,  though  exceedingly  poisonous,  are 
undoubtedly  the  most  clever  and  intelligent  of  the  anthro- 
pods.  Large  num.bers  of  these  interesting  specimens  are 
gathered  every  year  and  mounted  on  cards  along  with  their 
silk-lined  homes.  These  spider  abodes  are  marvelous  es- 
tablishments, the  construction  of  which  would  puzzle  a 
human  architect.  They  average  six  or  eight  inches  in 
depth,  are  circular  in  form  and  about  one  inch  in  diameter. 
They  are  lined  and  padded  with  white  silken  web,  and  are 
secured  from  intrusion  by  a  snug-fitting  door,  which,  when 
danger  threatens,  is  hurriedly  pulled  shut  and  held  fast  by 
the  muscular  arms  of  the  spider. 

During   the   tarantula   season,    including   the   months    of 


July,  August  and  September,  small  hoys  in  cotton  sliirl- 
and  jumpers  dot  the  foothills  and  dry  fields  like  punctua 
tion  marks,  all  intent  upon  capturing  these  dangerous  liugs. 
The  intrepid  youth  has  fitted  himself  out  with  tin  cans  and 
glass  jars  with  covers,  a  pail  of  water  and  a  pair  of  pinch- 
ers. Some  of  the  boys  are  more  elaborately  equipped  for 
the  business,  being  supplied  with  long  steel  pinchers  and  a 
box  especially  made  for  storing  spiders,  with  small  parti- 
tions and  tightly  fitting  cover. 

Tarantulas  live  almost  exclusively  in  uncultivated  adobe 
areas,  where  the  soil  is  black,  corresponding  in  color  to 
their  dusky  hue,  and  they  can  prowl  about  with  less  fear  of 
being  discovered  by  their  enemies. 

The  location  of  a  tarantula's  home  is  always  indicated  by 
a  white,  silken  web  that  outlines  the  rim  of  the  hole,  and  if 
for  any  reason  the  spider  moves  into  new  quarters  he  in- 
variably removes  the  web  from  the  doorway  of  the  old 
home  when  he  departs.  If  the  boys  do  not  discover  their 
prey  running  at  large,  they  look  about  for  the  spider  estab- 
lishments. When  they  find  them  they  pour  in  a  quantity 
of  cold  water,  giving  Mr.  and  Mrs.  spider  an  impromptu 
bath  that  quite  upsets  the  equilibrium  of  their  domestic 
affairs  and  they  rush  above  ground  to  discover  the  cause  of 
the  disturbance.  Here  their  reception  is  unpropitious,  for 
they  are  immediately  grabbed  by  the  pinchers  and  placed 
in  prison,  there  to  await  their  doom.  Like  the  centipedes, 
they  fight  in  captivity  and  must  be  kept  apart. 

These  tarantulas  are  of  the  species  Mygale  avicularia, 
and  in  size  are  immense,  sometimes  covering  a  space  as  large 
as  a  man's  hand.  They  are  formidable  and  courageous 
fighters,  capable  of  overcoming  enemies  several  times  their 
size.  There  is  one  enemj',  however,  of  which  they  stand 
in  mortal  terror,  and  that  is  the  pompilidae,  more  commonly 
known  as  the  tarantula  hawk.    It  is  a  huge  wasp,  two  inches 


2/5 

long,  with  bright  blue  body  and  golden  wings.  When  it 
darts  from  boulder  to  leaf  it  is  a  brilliant  speck  of  life, 
glittering,  iridescent  and  translucent  as  a  sunbeam.  It 
keeps  up  an  incessant  buzzing  caused  by  the  vibration  of 
its  wings,  and  is  a  gray  tormenter,  darting  close,  then  tak- 
ing an  upward  flight  and  seeming  to  laugh  at  the  spider's 
discomforture.  At  last,  tiring  of  the  play,  she  strikes  the 
fatal  blow,  then  retires  to  a  near-by  boulder  to  watch  de- 
velopments. The  poison  paralyzes  but  does  not  kill  the 
spider,  and  when  he  is  still,  the  wasp  drags  him  to  some 
subterranean  burrow  and  deposits  an  egg  on  his  back. 
Then  covering  her  victim  with  a  layer  of  dirt,  she  gives  a 
buzz  of  satisfaction  and  leaves  the  embryo  to  develop.  The 
prospective  w^asp  makes  its  first  appearance  in  the  world 
as  a  grub,  and  until  it  undergoes  a  transformation  and  be- 
comes large  enough  to  battle  with  life,  it  feeds  on  the 
carcass  of  the  spider  on  which  it  was  hatched.  The  mother 
wasp  never  deposits  but  one  egg  at  a  time,  and  so  in  order 
to  propagate  and  raise  her  numerous  progeny  she  must 
necessarily  reap  a  big  harvest  of  tarantulas. 

The  taxidermist  kills  the  spiders  by  emptying  them  into 
a  tub  of  gasolene  and  turpentine.  Chloroform  is  sometimes 
used,  but  is  objectionable  because  it  loosens  the  fuzz  of  the 
spider,  which  if  dropped  on  the  hands  often  causes  an  irri- 
tation of  the  skin.  Long  pinchers  are  invariably  used  to 
handle  the  bugs,  and  under  no  conditions  are  they  touched 
with  the  hands. 

When  these  gruesome  anthropoids  have  passed  through 
the  process  of  taxidermy,  they  are  pinned  on  boards  and 
placed  in  the  sun  to  dry,  just  like  so  many  trays  of  raisins. 
When  they  are  sufficiently  cured  they  are  mounted  on  cards, 
or  arranged  under  glass  paper  weights,  those  on  cards 
ranging  in  price  from  twenty-five  to  fifty  cents,  according 
to  the  size  and  quality  of  the  specimen,  while  the  paper 
weights  retail  at  seventy-five  cents  each. 


276 

Sardines. — Sardines  swarm  off  the  shores  of  Southern 
Qilifornia  being  found  in  great  numbers.  It  is  part  of  the 
Ixjunty  of  heaven  bestowed  upon  this  favored  region — a 
provision  of  Nature  for  the  teeming  population  that  will 
shorth-  fill  our  fat  valleys. 

And  this  little  slippery  denizen  of  our  mild  Pacific  is 
genuine.  Maine  has  its  sardine  fisheries,  but  the  catch  is 
only  a  small  herring  or  a  young  menhaden.  The  English 
coast  has  the  sprat  which  passes  for  a  sardine,  but  is  not. 
The  chientific  name  of  the  sardine  is  clupca  pilchardus 
and  the  sprat  is  clupca  spratliis.  The  sardine  has  scales, 
while  the  sprat  has  a  smooth  skin  and  is  entirely  innocent 
of  scales.  It  belongs  to  the  same  family  as  the  shad,  her- 
ring and  pilchard.  Our  sardine  is  neither  sprat  nor  men- 
haden. It  is  Simon  pure,  as  genuine  as  the  article  we  ex- 
port from  Mediterranean  shores,  and  it  is  packed  moreover 
in  pure  olive  oil,  a  product  from  our  own  orchards. 

The  cannery  at  San  Pedro  has  been  established  about 
ten  years  and  is  large  enough  to  handle  one  hundred  and 
forty  tons  every  month. 

A  small  vessel  called  the  Alpha  flits  with  white  wings  up 
and  down  the  coast,  ranging  not  far  in  anj-  direction,  per- 
haps not  over  thirty  miles.  A  favorite  feeding  ground  is 
Catalina  Island,  and  fifty  tons  have  been  estimated  in  one 
school.  Over  against  Catalina,  in  the  placid  Bay  of  Avalon, 
famous  for  its  giant  tuna  and  hosts  of  yellowtail,  perhaps 
the  best  and  most  prolific  and  exciting  fishing  grounds  in 
the  world,  the  sardine  are  found  in  great  numbers.  "The 
more  we  catch,  the  more  there  appears  to  be."  the  crew  of 
the  Alpha  say,  and  they  limit  their  catch  only  by  their 
ability  to  pack  and  dispose  of  them.  The  net  used  is  what 
is  known  as  a  purse  seine,  and  is  seven  hundred  feet  long 
by  fifty  feet  deep.     It  holds  about  thirty  thousand  pounds, 


277 

and  is  almost  carried  away  at  times  by  the  weight  and 
rush  of  the  finny  tribe. 

Deposited  in  the  great  packing  house,  built  out  toward 
deep  water  on  piles,  the  fish  are  spread  out  on  tables  and 
carefully  cleaned.  After  washing  in  several  waters  they 
are  transferred  to  wire  screens  to  dry.  They  are  then 
placed  in  huge  wire  baskets  and  cooked  in  hot  cotton  seed 
oil.  This  is  then  carefully  drained  off,  and  our  picnic  and 
luncheon  delicacy  is  packed  for  shipment  in  pure  olive  oil. 
The  cooking  is  not  yet  finished,  however,  for  after  packing 
closely  and  pouring  oil  into  the  interstices,  they  are  sub- 
jected to  a  final  steaming,  the  last  drop  of  solder  is  added,  and 
the  cans  are  ready  for  the  label  and  the  market.  The  oil  is 
absolutely  pure,  a  product  of  California  orchards  and  mills, 
and  the  cans  are  made  in  the  port  where  the  fish  are  packed. 
Many  girls  and  women  are  employed  in  dressing  and  pack- 
ing, as  they  are  found  to  be  neat  and  skilful  and  quick 
fingered.  The  sardines  are  graded  in  size  and  in  their 
preparation.  There  are  quarter-pound  cans  and  two-pound 
cans,  the  smallest  and  the  largest.  The  chief  difficulty  met 
with  is  to  find  the  small  or  medium  sizedfish,  the  over- 
growth of  the  little  fellow  being  perhaps  a  California  habit. 
Sardines  are  believed  to  reach  their  greatest  size  at  two 
years  of  age. 

About  forty  tons  are  handled  every  week,  this  meaning 
one  thousand  cases  of  one  hundred  cans  each.  This  enter- 
prise, which  began  modestly  and  without  any  blowing  of 
horns,  has  grown  steadily,  and  now  distributes  its  output 
in  nearly  every  part  of  the  country.  Chicago,  Boston,  New 
York  and  other  cities  furnish  a  growing  market.  There 
is  room  for  great  enlargement  of  the  business.  So  far  as 
the  quantity  of  fish  is  concerned  there  is  no  reason  why  a 
dozen  more  canneries  should  not  !)e  in  operation  on  our 
coast. — A.  J.  JJ'ells,  in  Sunset. 


278 

Squab  Raising. — With  ten  thousand  pigeons  and  two 
acres  of  river  bottom  an  enterprising  Los  Angeles,  Cali- 
fornian,  man  is  making  a  fortune  at  squab  raising,  says 
Bertha  II.  Smith,  in  Sunset. 

This  ranch  supplies  practically  all  the  squabs  used  in  San 
Francisco  and  Los  Angeles  during  the  entire  year. 

The  farm  is  novel  enough  to  be  worth  a  visit,  but  for- 
tunately for  both  the  pigeons  and  their  keeper,  it  is  some- 
what off  the  beaten  track  of  the  tourist,  being  hidden  away 
behind  a  hill  in  a  rather  inaccessible  angle  of  the  Los  An- 
geles River,  and  the  arroyo  seco  that  skirts  Los  Angeles 
and  Pasadena.  The  owner  of  the  ranch  does  not  court 
sightseers,  as  pigeons  are  not  fend  of  strangers,  and  there 
is  no  inclosure  to  prevent  their  leaving  home  at  any  time. 

The  raising  of  squabs  for  market  is  a  ticklish  business. 
More  than  one  man  has  tried  it  and  failed.  The  growth 
of  this  ranch,  which  started  three  years  ago  with  a  stock 
of  two  thousand  birds,  shows  what  pigeons  think  of  Cali- 
fornia climate,  and  that  is  one  of  the  secrets  of  its  success. 

The  pigeons  live  entirely  in  the  open  except  when  they 
are  hatching.  All  day  long,  and  all  night,  too,  they  perch 
upon  the  roofs  of  sheds  built  for  nesting  places,  flying  about 
only  to  pick  their  food  from  the  ground  or  go  for  a  drink 
or  a  bath  to  shallow  pools  in  the  broad  and  but  partly  used 
river  bed.  The  endless  cooing  and  whir  of  wings  makes  a 
strange  sound  that  can  be  heard  at  a  great  distance. 

There  are  eight  sheds,  each  with  tier  upon  tier  of  fruit 
boxes  converted  into  rooms  just  big  enough  for  two.  The 
boxes  must  not  be  too  new.  The  birds  seem  to  dislike  the 
look  and  odor  of  now  boards,  and  the  boxes,  are  allowed  to 
stand  around  in  the  weather  until  the  newness  is  worn  off. 

In  the  mating  season  there  is  a  general  rush  of  house- 
hunting. The  male  bird  takes  possession  of  a  place  that 
suits   him,   and   having   settled  himself  proceeds   to   spend 


279 

much  time  in  the  doorway  preening  his  coat  and  trying  to 
attract  the  attention  of  house-hunters  of  the  other  sex. 
When  one  seems  to  take  notice  he  coaxes  her  in,  only  to 
whip  her  out  again  in  a  most  inhospitable,  not  to  say  un- 
loverlike  manner.  This  he  repeats  three  or  four  times; 
and  if  the  female  bird  shows  the  necessary  persistence,  he 
finally  yields  and  allows  her  to  stay.  If  she  resents  this 
masculine  rudeness,  he  lets  her  go  and  begins  putting  his 
best  feathers  forward  for  another;  while  she,  nursing  a 
justifiable  resentment,  flies  away  in  answer  to  the  love- 
notes  of  another  householder. 

Once  mated,  these  birds  set  a  fairly  good  example  of 
domestic  life.  The  male  helps  build  the  nest,  and  shares 
the  responsibility  of  the  family  by  taking  a  turn  at  sitting 
on  the  nest.  About  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning  the  female 
leaves  her  nest,  and  the  male  goes  on  for  an  hour  or  two 
while  the  female  picks  up  a  breakfast  and  stretches  her 
wings  a  bit. 

About  every  forty  days  the  hens  lay  a  nest  of  eggs,  usually 
two.  It  requires  about  eighteen  days  to  hatch  them;  and 
in  from  three  weeks  to  twenty-five  days  the  squabs  are 
ready  for  market.  Two  hundred  and  fifty  dozen  a  month 
is  a  fair  average,  the  only  appreciable  falling  ofif  in  the 
number  being  at  moulting  time,  which  is  three  months  in  the 
fall.  Then  there  are  only  about  one  fourth  as  many  squabs. 
Two  dollars  a  dozen  is  the  usual  market  price,  and  the 
demand  for  them  is  always  equal  to  the  supply.  Sometimes 
a  slight  difference  in  the  demand  is  noticeable  in  quail 
season. 

The  feeding  of  ten  thousand  pigeons  is  no  small  item. 
It  costs  between  $200  and  $250  a  month.  The  daily  allow- 
ance is  a  wagonload  of  screenings,  two  sacks  of  wheat, 
about  twelve  gallons  of  boiled  meat;  and  once  a  week 
three  barrels  of  stale  bread  soaked  in  water. 


28o 

Tliis  liberal  food  supply  is  a  guarantee  against  desertion 
by  members  of  the  flock ;  and  it  often  tempts  strange 
pigeons  to  leave  a  roving  life  and  fettle  down  here  to  find 
ease  and  plenty.  Boys  and  rats  are  the  chief  concern  of 
the  man  who  owns  the  ranch.  Six  watch  dogs  help  to  keep 
tlie  boys  away,  while  eternal  vigilence  and  rat  traps  serve 
to  keep  the  place  clear  of  rats. 

Two  men  are  kept  busy  all  the  time  skinning  squabs  and 
preparing  them  for  market.  These  are  the  only  assistants 
required  by  the  owner,  unless  the  six  dogs  and  one  horse 
are  counted.  This  is  the  entire  equipment  of  this,  the 
largest  pigeon  ranch  in  the  world. 

Turkey  Raising. — There  are  a  thousand  and  one  places 
in  Southern  California  where  this  industry  can  be  carried 
on  by  a  poor  man  or  woman.  On  the  foothill  region  the 
Spanish  poleo,  a  kind  of  mullein,  grows  abundantly.  It  is 
a  small,  harsh,  unlovely  plant,  with  prickly  capsules.  These 
are  full  of  farinaceous  seeds,  upon  \vhich  the  young  turkeys 
feed  greedily.  There  are  also  crickets,  bugs  and  grass- 
hoppers'. With  a  small  cabin  and  a  few  simple  accessories 
one  may  soon  have  a  large  flock  of  turkeys,  for  which  there 
is  a  constant  market  at  a  good  price. 

Celery. — In  Orange  County  celery  growing  has  become  a 
remarkably  profitable  venture.  In  1890  D.  E.  Smelzer,  of 
Kansas  City,  and  E.  A.  Curtis  tried  it  in  the  almost  useless 
peat  lands.  At  first  the  experiments  were  failures.  Then 
eighty  acres  were  planted  at  a  cost  of  $6,000  and  j'ielded 
a  profit.  The  bog  was  drained  by  a  big  ditch,  each  field 
having  a  smaller  ditch.  The  peat  is  of  vegetable  origin, 
consisting  of  roots  and  fibres  in  every  stage  of  decomposi- 
tion, from  natural  wood  in  the  first  stage  of  decay  to  the 
clear,  black  vegetable  mould.  The  land  was  bought  from 
the  "Swamp  Angels,"  who  cut  the  peat  for  fuel,  at  $10  per 
acre.     It  is  now  worth  twenty  times  that.     The  ploughing 


28 1 

is  done  by  heavy  horses  wearing  large  wooden  shoes  about 
a  foot  and  a  half  square,  which  prevent  them  from  miring. 
These  are  fastened  on  by  strong  iron  clamps.  The  celery 
is  started  in  seed-beds  and  transplanted,  when  grown  to 
the  proper  size,  in  rows  about  four  feet  apart.  It  is 
cut  in  October  and  marketed  all  through  the  winter.  The 
average  output  is  ten  carloads  a  day  for  several  months. 
It  is  shipped  from  Nova  Scotia  to  South  America,  from 
Victoria  to  New  York  and  Boston. 

These  are  a  few  of  the  novel  minor  industries  of  Southern 
California,  and  there  are  many  others  that  the  intelligent 
and  observant  traveler  will  discover  for  himself. 


CHAPTER   XXV. 

FROM     THE    COLOKADO    RIVER    TO     THE    PACIFIC    OCEAN    ON    THE 
SOUTHERN   PACIFIC. 

A  writer  in  The  Cosmopolitan  Magazine  says  that: 
"The  Southern  Pacific  Company  is  organized  under  the 
laws  of  Kentucky.  It  embraces,  by  construction,  or  lease 
or  purchase,  nineteen  distinct  railway  concerns,  and  gener- 
ally speaking,  as  appears  from  the  map,  four  divergent 
lines  of  road — one  from  Ogden  to  San  Francisco,  a  dis- 
tance of  875  miles;  the  second,  from  New  Orleans  to  San 
Francisco,  2,492  miles;  the  third,  from  Portland,  Oregon, 
to  San  Francisco,  772  miles ;  the  fourth,  from  Spofford, 
Texas,  to  Durango,  Mexico,  521  miles;  and  besides  these 
forty-four  smaller  branches  and  connections  along  the  main 
lines,  the  grand  total  of  track  aggregating  6,782  miles. 

"In  addition  to  these  railroads,  the  company  also  owns 
and  controls  steamship  lines  covering  water  routes  of  7,276 
miles,  making  a  grand  total  of  14,058  miles. 

"Tlie  Southern  Pacific  road,  from  San  Francisco  to  El 
Paso,  through  Arizona  and  New  Mexico,  was  built  directly 
by  the  magnates  of  the  Central  Pacific  Company — Stanford, 
Huntington,  Crocker  and  Hopkins — and  embraces  2,055 
miles." 

From  El  Paso  the  company  purchased  the  Morgan,  Lou- 
isiana and  Texas  R.  R.,  which  reaches  to  New  Orleans, 
and  which  carried  with  it  the  Morgan  line  of  steamers  from 
Galveston  and  New  Orleans  to  New  York. 

Suppose  the  traveler  is  coming  to  Southern  California 
on  this  Southern  Pacific  line  from  New  Orleans.  As  soon 
as  he  reaches  Yuma,  on  the  Colorado  River,  he  can  direct 
his  attention  to  our  "Land  of  the  Sun  Down  Sea." 


283 

YUMA: 

Population,  1,000,  estimated.  Elevation,  140 
feet,  S.  P.  Survey.  To  Los  Angeles,  250  miles. 
To  San  Francisco,  734  miles.  To  New  Orleans, 
1,757  miles. 

Yuma  itself  is  fascinating  in  quaint  old  picturesqueness, 
but  Arizona  has  the  honor  of  its  possession. 

Yuma  is  situated  on  the  Colorado  River,  just  below  its 
confluence  with  the  Gila.  Few  people  can  realize,  as  they 
gaze  upon  the  Colorado  River  at  Yuma,  that  were  it  not 
for  the  enormous  amount  of  absorption  by  evaporation  as 
this  river  journeys  through  the  arid,  desert  lands,  and  the 
porous  sand  for  hundreds  of  miles  along  its  banks,  it  would 
have  quite  as  large  a  volume,  and  be  as  majestically  flowing 
a  river  as  the  Columbia. 

Here  one  will  meet  with  the  Yuma  Indians,  who  hold  a 
large  territory  of  excellent  bottom  land  along  the  Rio 
Colorado. 

Its  hotels  are :  Southern  Pacific,  capacity  25,  $2.50  per 
day,  $12.00  per  week,  L.  F.  Laeger;  Gandolfo,  capacity  30, 
$1.50  to  $3.00  per  day,  C.  D.  Baker. 

Here  are  the  Territorial  penitentiary,  and  on  the  Cali- 
fornia side  is  Old  Fort  Yuma,  now  used  as  the  U.  S.  Indian 
School,  Superintendent,  J.  S.  Spear,  with  a  large  corps  of 
teachers  and  agency  physicians. 

Below  Yuma,  five  miles,  a  large  tract  of  land  was  re- 
cently thrown  open  to  settlement.  It  is  already  well  under 
cultivation  and  has  a  growing  population. 

From  Yuma  north  for  some  distance  the  country  is  dry, 
flat  and  sandy,  the  only  feature  in  the  landscape  at  all 
worthy  of  notice  being  the  purple  hills  far  away  to  the 
west,  and  the  mirage-haunted  plains  between. 

There  are  great  snowy  windrows  of  sand,  sea-washed 
and  clean,  that  glisten  in  their  rounded,  windswept  dunes, 


284 

rcnmaiilb  of  the  ancient   sea  that  once  occupied  this  great 
basin. 

There  seems  little  doubt  but  that  the  Gulf  of  California 
formerly  extended  to  the  neighborhood  of  San  Gorgonio 
Pass,  which  was  cut  off  by  the  detritus  of  the  Colorado 
River,  or  some  of  the  other  slow,  silent  forces  of  Nature, 
leaving  a  great  body  of  salt  water,  150  miles  long,  by  forty 
to  fifty  miles  wide.  This  residue  of  brine,  for  some  in- 
comprehensible reason,  retained  an  existence  as  an  inland 
sea  for  some  time,  finally  drying  up,  leaving  bodies  of  salt. 

OGILBY; 

To  Los  Angeles,   234  miles.     To  San  Francisco, 
718  miles.     To  New  Orleans,   1,773  miles. 

Is  the  mining  station  for  an  important  mining  district, 
Hedges,  a  large  mining  camp,  being  but  a  few  miles  away. 
This  section  has  bright  prospects  which  are  in  a  fair  way 
for  realization. 

The  traveler  is  now  well  in  the  heart  of  the  Colorado 
Desert.    Paul  Shoup  has  beautifully  w-ritten  of  it: 

"Vaguely  described  as  'The  Desert,'  the  wilderness  be- 
tween the  mountains  and  the  Colorado  River  has  many 
points  of  interest  all  its  own.  It  is  a  desert  w-ith  the  treas- 
ures of  King  Solomon's  jMines ;  it  is  a  desert  with  more  salt 
of  the  earth  than  any  other  in  the  world ;  it  is  a  desert  with 
oases  that  have  the  atmosphere  of  life;  it  is  a  desert  w-ith 
mountains  miles  high  and  basins  tw'O  hundred  feet  below 
the  surf  of  the  Pacific ;  it  is  a  desert  of  sand  and  yet  of 
luxuriant  vegetation;  it  is  a  desert  so  unique  in  both  animal 
and  vegetable  life  as  to  be  of  endless  interest. 

Plere  lives  the  sand  terrapin,  almost  a  counterpart  of  the 
common  mud-turtle,  but  an  absolute  teetotaler.  Water 
to  him  is  an  unknown  quality  that  no  algebraist  could  make 
him  appreciate  the  value  of.    Yet  the  turtle  veed  that  grows 


285 

in  baked  sand  in  the  fierce  direct  and  refracted  rays  of  the 
sun,  with  moisture  neither  in  air  nor  land,  gathers  within 
its  leaf  a  drop  of  water.  Tiny  rabbits  frisk  about  under- 
neath the  mesquite  tree — a  tree,  liy  the  way,  that  in  the 
desert,  springing  from  one  stem,  buries  its  limbs  in  the 
sand,  whence  it  grows  again,  forming  an  almost  impene- 
trable chaparral.  Miniature  quail,  too,  live  in  this  arid 
land.  Long  reefs  that  may  be  traced  for  miles  mark  sea 
level  on  the  sides  of  the  basins,  shells  that  were  once  of  the 
ocean  lying  amid  a  wilderness  of  sand.  Cacti  of  fantastic 
forms,  volcanic  creations  of  curious  shapes,  bare,  gaunt 
mountains,  levels  of  seemingly  endless  sand,  with  which 
the  winds  play,  and  where  sudden  thunder  storms  break 
violently — these  are  of  the  desert." 

OLD  BEACH: 

To  Los  Angeles,  188   miles.     To   San  Francisco, 
672  mile.s.      To  New  Orleans,   1,819  miles. 

This  is  the  junction  point  for  the  new  region,  known  as 
The  Imperial  Country.  The  history  of  this  region  reads 
like  a  romance.  Under  an  arrangement  with  the  United 
States  and  Mexican  Governments,  the  California  Develop- 
ment Co.  and  the  Imperial  Land  Co.  organized  for  the  pur- 
pose of  conveying  water  from  the  Colorado  River  to 
vast  tracts  of  land  and  aiding  colonists  to  settle  upon 
them.  In  four  or  five  years  the  results  have  been  nothing 
less  than  marvelous. 

During  the  season  of  1903,  there  were  under  cultivation 
50,000  acres  of  land,  and  the  population  in  the  valley  was 
conservatively  estimated  at  4,000.  It  is  now  known  that 
about  125,000  acres  will  he  cultivated  during  1904,  and 
that  probably  100,000  acres  of  this  area  will  be  devoted  to 
wheat  and  barley,  which  is  expected  to  yield  an  average 
of  one  ton  of  grain  to  the  acre,  giving  a  total  yield  of 
100,000  tons,  or  10,000  carloads. 


286 

Under  proper  rrmdilions  this  land  is  very  fertile.  It  i*^ 
essentially  a  grain  and  stock  country.  Alfalfa  can  he  cut 
six  to  eight  times  each  season,  yielding  from  one  to  two 
tons  of  cured  hay  per  acre  at  each  cutting.  Wheat,  harley, 
milo  maize,  sorghum,  kaffir  corn  and  millet  grow  excel- 
lently. These  make  the  region  unsurpassed  for  cattle  and 
hog  raising,  which  hring  good  prices  in  Los  Angeles. 

Seedless  sultanas,  the  date  of  commerce,  sugar  beets, 
rice  and  early  vegetables  also  do  well. 

IMPERIAL: 

To  Los  Angeles,   216  miles.     To  San  Francisco, 
700  miles.     To  New  Orleans,  1,791  miles. 

This  was  the  first  town  started  in  the  Imperial  Valley 
in  1901.  It  is  now  incorporated,  has  a  bank,  brick  blocks, 
newspaper,  water  system,  telephone,  ice  plant  and  no 
saloons.  Nine  miles  north  of  Imperial,  on  the  Imperial 
branch  of  the  Southern  Pacific,  is 

BRAWLEY. 

This  town  has  already  become  well  established.  It  has 
many  good  buildings  erected  and  in  process  of  erection, 
including  a  large  hotel — the  largest  in  the  Valley,  a  bank 
building  in  which  has  been  established  a  bank,  several 
business  houses,  and  a  number  of  residences.  The  house? 
are  mostly  made  of  adobe,  and  they  are  pronounced  the 
finest  adobe  buildings  to  be  found  on  the  coast. 

The  town  of  Brawley  is  backed  by  17,500  acres  of  Im- 
perial Water  Companj'^  No.  4,  all  of  which  is  taken  by 
settlers,  20,000  acres  of  Imperial  Water  Company  No.  5. 
10,000  acres  of  which  have  been  taken  by  settlers,  and 
40,000  acres  of  No.  8,  over  half  of  which  is  already  taken 
by  settlers.  In  order  to  show  what  the  projectors  expect 
I  quote  from  their  circular  about  other  towns. 


287 

"Calcxico  is  a  busy  town  on  the  United  States  side  of 
the  boundary  line,  just  east  of  Cameron  Lake,  and  a  town 
is  laid  out  on  the  Mexican  side  of  the  line  just  south  of  and 
adjoining  Calexico,  to  be  known  a.s  Mexicali.  Calexico 
has  a  post  office,  and  it  is  the  headquarters  of  the  California 
Development  Company. 

"Silsbee  is  to  become  the  pleasure  resort  for  the  entire 
Valley,  as  well  as  a  business  center,  for  the  country  to  the 
southwest  of  Imperial.  It  is  located  on  the  east  shore  of 
Blue  Lake,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  that  is  well  stocked 
with  fish.  The  lake  is  surrounded  by  mesquite  trees,  and 
around  the  lake  has  been  laid  out  a  drive  that  will  be  well 
shaded. 

"A  new  town  to  be  known  as  Hchcr  will  be  located  about 
midway  between  Imperial  and  Calexico,  as  soon  as  the 
railroad  is  definitely  located  betw-een  those  two  points. 

"The  town  of  Eastside,  to  be  located  in  the  southern  por- 
tion of  township  15  south,  range  15  east,  will  be  platted  at 
once,  and  thus  a  business  center  will  be  created  on  the  east 
side  of  Alamo  River,  east  of  the  town  of  Imperial." 

There  are  now  five  school  districts  in  the  Imperial  Val- 
ley, having  a  total  of  370  school  children  last  June.  These 
districts  are  known  as  Imperial,  Calexico,  Silsbee,  Brawley 
and  Eastside.  The  Imperial  District  has  voted  $10,000 
bonds  with  which  to  build  school  houses.  Arrangements 
are  being  made  to  vote  additional  school  bonds  as  follows : 
Calexico,  for  two  school  .houses,  $3,000;  Brawley,  $2,500; 
Silsbee,  $1,500;  and  Eastside,  $1,500.  This  shows  that  the 
people  are  making  arrangements  to  educate  their  children 
and  develop  a  higher  civilization  equal  to  the  best  sections 
of  the  State. 

Returning  now  to  the  main  line,  the  next  place  of  im- 
portance to  be  reached  is 


288 


Sy\LTON ; 


To  Los  Angeles,  155  miles.     To  San  Francisco, 
637  miles.     To  New  Orleans,  1,851  miles. 

Cactus,  the  name  of  the  mere  stopping  place  75  miles 
furtlier  back,  is  395  feet  above  sea  level,  and  Salton  is  263 
feet  below. 

Here,  for  fifteen  miles  square,  the  earth  is  covered  with  a 
layer  of  salt  from  four  inches  to  a  foot  thick.  The  first 
glimpse — and  many  another  glimpse — fails  to  reveal  to 
you  that  it  is  anything  but  a  large  lake,  and  you  wonder 
at  its  brilliant,  dazzling  surface.  The  salt  works — houses 
and  sheds — appear  as  if  a  visual  fiction — a  mirage — or  per- 
haps as  if  built  on  piles,  or  suspended  in  the  air  by  some 
magic  means. 

It  is  common  to  find  the  mercury  here  as  high  as  105 
degrees  Fahrenheit  in  the  shade  and  even  ten  degrees 
higher,  and,  in  the  full  sun's  rays  130  degrees  and  140 
degrees  and  even  150  degrees  and,  singular  to  say,  the 
workmen  in  this  unique  harvest  field,  toiling  laboriously  for 
ten  hours  a  day,  do  not  suflfer  so  much  from  the  heat  as 
many  workmen  in  the  Illinois  or  Kansas  corn  and  grain 
fields.  The  salt  is  almost  pure  and  undergoes  no  refining 
processes.  It  is  "harvested"  by  steam  power,  the  plough 
cutting  a  furrow  eight  feet  in  width.  Seven  hundred  tons 
a  day  are  thus  scraped  up,  ground  and  sacked  ready  for 
market. 

But  to  gaze  on  this  salt  ocean  during  the  daytime  is  ex- 
ceedingly trying  on  the  eyes,  and  blue  or  green  spectacles 
— goggles — are  necessary  to  preserve  the  eyes  of  the  on- 
looker from.  pain.  But  the  Indians  despise  all  such  outward 
aids,  the  only  eye-preserver  they  use  being  a  little  mud  or 
axle  grease  which  they  smear  under  the  lozccr  eyelashes. 

Whence  comes  all  this  salt? 

There    arc    numerous    springs    throughouly    impregnated 


289 

with  pure  chlorine  in  the  adjacent  foothills  and  this  water 
flowing  into  the  salt  sea  quickly  evaporates  and  leaves  a 
fresh  layer  of  salt. 

Similar  works  exist  near  the  Pyramid  Lake  in  Nevada, 
but  there,  instead  of  nature  supplying  the  salt  water  in 
springs,  it  has  to  be  pumped  out  from  wells. 

The  aseptic  properties  of  this  atmosphere,  impregnated 
by  the  chlorine  gases  constantly  arising  in  the  process  of 
evaporation,  can  be  well  understood,  and,  although  the 
distinct  traces  of  it  are  lost  ere  it  reaches  the  orange  groves 
on  the  other  side  of  the  mountains,  the  purifying  properties 
are  still  retained  and  do  their  share  in  the  manufacture 
of  our  healthful  Southern  California  climate. 

TJie  Saltan  Sea. — In  the  year  1891,  on  the  23d  day  of 
June,  a  large  volume  of  water  was  discovered  flowing  into 
the  Salton  Basin  some  thirty  miles  south  of  the  salt  works. 
At  first  it  was  supposed  this  flow  was  caused  by  cloud- 
bursts, which,  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year  are  not  in- 
frequent in  a  region  still  further  away,  but,  as  the  water 
increased  in  volume  and  flowed  steadily  this  supposition 
was  abandoned. 

A  new  theory  was  advanced  owing  to  the  cessation, 
about  that  time,  of  the  flow  of  one  of  the  large  artesian 
wells  at  Indio,  twenty  miles  away,  and  it  was  assumed  that 
the  underground  stratum  of  water  had  found  a  new  outlet 
into  the  Salton  region.  But  in  a  few  days  the  difficulty 
with  the  artesian  well  was  discovered  and  the  flow  restored. 

The  manager  of  the  New  Liverpool  salt  works  at  Salton 
— Mr.  George  Durbrow — being  now  interested,  determined 
to  thoroughly  investigate  the  phenomenon,  and  discovered 
that  when  the  Colorado  River  rose  in  February  of  that 
year  it  had  overflowed  its  banks  below  Yuma  for  a  dis- 
tance of  some  twenty  miles.  Some  portions  of  this  over- 
flow found  its  way  back  to  the  river  by  way  of  a  bed  known 


2fjO 

as  llardic's  Colorado,  Init  quite  a  quantity  found  its  way 
In  the  many  depressions  tliat  exist  between  Indian  Wells 
and  Salton.  In  June  another  overflow  of  the  Colorado 
River  took  place,  and  these  small  lakes  formed  by  the 
February  overflow  were  now,  in  turn,  overflowed,  the  sur- 
plus waters  united  and  formed  a  channel  which  emptied 
into  the  Salton  Basin.  Thus  the  Salton  Lake  was  formed, 
ten  miles  wide  by  thirty  miles  long,  and  about  five  feet  deep 
in  the  deepest  part. 

Mr.  Durbrow  is  assured  that  no  permanent  lake  can 
exist  here.  Evaporation  is  so  rapid,  that  the  waters  speedily 
disappear,  although  scientific  investigation  has  shown  that, 
were  the  conditions  at  all  ordinary',  a  lake  of  twenty  feet 
depth  might  exist  here  from  the  overflows  of  the  Colorada 
River  since  the  monster  breaks  in  its  banks. 

VOLCANO  SPRINGS: 

Elevation,  225  feet,  S.  P.  Survey.  To  Los  An- 
geles, 179  miles.  To  San  Francisco,  663  miles. 
To  New  Orleans,   1,827  miles. 

A  few  miles  east  from  the  salt  works  are  a  number  of 
famous  mud  volcanoes,  which  only  await  further  explora- 
tions and  the  pens  of  enthusiastic  scientists  and  tourists 
to  make  more  famous  than  the  Napa  Valley  geysers. 

Inadequate  attempts  at  exploration  have  been  made,  but 
the  ground  is  so  treacherous  that  hitherto  no  one  has  had 
courage  enough  to  complete  the  surveys.  Professor  Hanks, 
the  State  mineralogist,  at  one  time  undertook  the  work, 
but  was  severely  injured  by  breaking  through  the  burning 
crust.    Twenty-five  miles  distant  from  Salton  is 

INDIO: 

Population,  100,  estimated.  Elevation.  20  feet, 
S.  P.  Survey.  To  Los  Angeles,  129  miles.  To 
San  Francisco,  613  miles.  To  New  Orleans,  1,S77 
miles. 

Located  in  a  valley,  some  portions  of  which  are  below 


291 

sea  level.  This  valley  is  in  the  heart  of  the  desert,  and  is  a 
wonderful  example  of  newly  created  oasis.  A  quarter  of 
a  mile  below  the  surface  of  burning  sand,  is  a  subterra- 
nean stream  that,  tapped  by  artesian  wells,  has  given  to 
Indio  the  bloom  of  tropical  life.  It  is  a  cottage  resort,  and 
has  all  modern  conveniences.  Those  afflicted  with  lung 
troubles  find  its  climate  very  beneficial. 

There  are  five  flowing  and  four  pumping  wells  in  the 
valley — one  flowing  well  a  mile  above  Indio;  one  at  the 
station ;  two  at  South  Indio,  three  miles  south  of  the  sta- 
tion ;  and  one  at  Walters,  twelve  miles  south.  There  are 
two  pumping  wells  one-half  mile  west  of  Indio  and  two 
at  the  station. 

There  are  also  tv/o  ranches  under  cultivation  near  Indio, 
one  within  half  a  mile  of  the  station,  the  other  three  miles 
south  at  South  Indio,  on  the  line  of  the  railroad  from 
Indio  to  Yuma.  These  ranches  have  b^en  largely  experi- 
mental in  their  character,  having  been  planted  in  vines  of 
numerous  varieties,  apricot,  fig,  olive,  date  and  other  trees. 
These  places  are  now  well  advanced  and  afford  an  object 
lesson  of  what  can  be  accomplished  here  by  the  aid  of  ir- 
rigation. 

PALM  SPRINGS: 

Population,  200.  Elevation,  550  feet,  S.  P.  Sur- 
vey. To  -Los  Angeles,  145  miles.  To  San  Fran- 
cisco, 629  miles.     To  New  Orleans,  1,899  miles. 

Is  the  next  station,  but  it  is  merely  the  stopping  place  for 
the  stage  which  takes  you  to  Palm  Valley.  This  little  settle- 
ment is  five  miles  from  the  Southern  Pacific  station.  There 
is  a  stage  and  telephone  to  connect  them.  This  stage  meets 
all  trains.  The  village  consists  of  post  office,  general  store, 
a  school  house,  church,  cottages  and  tents  and  the  Palm 
Springs  Hotel,  that  will  accommodate  sixty  persons.  Rates 
$2.oo  per  day  and  $io.oo  per  week.    Dr.  Welwood  Murray 


292 

is  tlic  proprietor.  The  village,  with  its  tiny  houses,  em- 
bowered in  cottonwoods,  mesquite,  figs,  and  fan  palms,  is 
built  around  the  old  Indian  spring  of  Agua  Calientc. 
George  Hamlin  Fitch  says:  "This  spring  is  unparalled 
on  the  coast,  and  perhaps  in  the  world.  Through  a  central 
shaft,  of  the  dimensions  of  an  ordinary  well,  the  hot  water 
and  sand  rise,  sometimes  spurting  high  in  air  like  a  geyser, 
but  usually  bubbling  over  the  surface.  The  water  spreads 
around  in  a  circular  pool  about  six  feet  by  ten,  to  a  general 
depth  of  three  or  four  inches.  The  bottom  is  hard  sand 
until  one  reaches  the  shaft.  Then  the  bather  sinks  wMth  a 
swift  motion  that  makes  his  heart  leap.  The  warm,  liquid 
sand  closes  in  around  the  body,  and  one  goes  down  to  the 
armpits.  Then  with  a  mighty  recoil  the  limbs  are  thrown 
out  and  the  pool  once  more  becomes  placid." 

Here  we  see,  too,  in  the  canyons  a  few  miles  away,  the 
monster  date  palms,  which  are  indigenous  to  this  region. 
Sixty,  eighty  and  even  150  feet  high,  they  tower  aloft,  as 
if  attracting  your  attention  to  the  beautiful  land  you  are 
about  to  enter.  They  are  not  archangels,  with  flaming 
swords,  refusing  you  admittance,  but  welcoming  friends, 
bidding  you  enter  and  take  full  possession.  They  are  in 
reality  a  good  foretaste  of  semi-tropical  Southern  California, 
for  in  park,  yard,  garden  or  home  enclosure  they  abound 
from  San  Bernardino  to  the  sea. 

Their  large  fan  leaves  and  monster  bunches  of  dates  are 
always  attractive,  and  in  their  solemn  grandeur  they  attest 
the  dignity,  beauty  and  fruit  fulness  of  the  Eden  over  the 
range. 

Not  more  than  a  thousand  yards  or  so  from  the  spring 
the  massive  wall  of  the  San  Jacinto  Mountain  rises — a 
perfect  wall,  perpendicular  and  straight — "looking  as  though 
it  had  been  cut  and  squared  by  prehistoric  stone  masons." 
Riding  along  beneath  its  vastness  one  easily  sees  the  way 


293 

in  which  the  Colorado  Desert  and  the  mountains  combine 
to  assist  the  Climate  Manufacturer  in  His  purpose  to  make 
Southern  California  the  new  Eden.  What  a  wonderful 
drop  it  is  I  From  the  summit  of  San  Jacinto  to  the  desert, 
a  distance  of  over  ten  thousand  feet,  in  a  little  over  five 
miles!  What  wonder  that  the  hot  air  ascends  from  this 
heated  desert,  high  into  the  upper  current  regions  when 
shut    in   by   such    a   gigantic   wall.     After   many  years   of 


Dr.  Murray's  Hotel  at  Palm   Springs. 

personal  experience  and  study  of  climatology  I  can  un- 
hesitatingly commend  Palm  Valley  to  all  who  are  begin- 
ning to  suffer  from  pulmonary  or  bronchial  troubles.  The 
tragedy  of  so  much  of  this  kind  of  disease  is  that  intelligent 
people  wait  until  it  is  too  late.  As  soon  as  the  first  symp- 
toms appear,  drop  everything  and  spend  a  few  months  or 
a  year  here  and  you  can  then  begin  life  afresh. 

The  impression  has  gone  out  that  Dr.  Murray's  Palm 
Springs  Hotel  is  a  sanatarium,  where  people  in  advanced 
consumption  are  treated.  This  is  entirely  an  error.  No 
one  who  even  coughs  enough  to  disturb  the  most  sensitive 


2Q4 

is  ciUL-rtaincd  at  this  hotel.  There  arc  places  in  the  valley, 
however,  where  they  can  be  accommodated.  Dr.  Murray's 
liotel  is  a  delightful  place  for  the  "run  down"  and  wearied 
to  go  to  for  rest  and  recuperation,  and  in  the  genial 
society  of  the  learned  and  interesting  host  and  his  dear 
and  kind  hearted  wife  the  most  refined  and  cultured  can 
find  a  delight  and  pleasure  seldom  found  anywhere.  Fogs, 
winds  and  storms  are  unknown  here;  rain  falls  seldom; 
there  arc  no  fleas,  and  the  fruit  is  free  from  every  kind 
of  unclean  parasite. 

Nineteen  miles  from  Palm  Springs  is 

BANNING : 

Population,  500.  r;ievation,  2.317  feet.  S.  P.  Sur- 
vey. To  T^os  Ang:eles,  87  miles.  To  San  Fran- 
cisco, 571  miles.     To  New  Orleans,  1,919  miles.  _^ 

'l"o  those  interested  in  the  Mission  Indians,  as  they  are 
called,  good  opportunities  for  visiting  them  in  their  homes 
are  afforded  in  this  region. 

On  the  southern  slope  of  San  Gorgonio,  the  snow- 
crowned  peak  and  towering  monarch  of  the  San  Bernar- 
dino range  is  an  unusually  fertile  spot,  where  an  exquisitely 
beautiful  mountain  stream,  flowing  merrily  along  and  send- 
ing out  its  vivifying  moisture  to  percolate  through  the 
porous  soil,  produces  perennial  growth  in  great  variety  of 
grasses,  flowers,  trees  and  shrubs.  This  is  "Potrero."  or 
"opening,"  an  Indian  village  of  about  a  hundred  inhabitants. 

Twenty-five  years  ago  only  a  few  Indians  were  camped 
here,  when  some  Mexican  cattle  men  and  sheep  herders 
discovered  the  fertile  spot.  Soon  they  intermarried,  and 
now  ragged  little  urchins  and  sturdy  little  maidens  of 
Mexican-Indian  parentage  watch  the  sheep  and  cattle  as 
they  enjoy  the  rich  pasturage  so  abundantly  provided. 

There  is  no  regular  stage  line  running  to  Potrero.  but 
livorv   hire   is    reasonable.      Distance   from    Bannincr.    three 


295 

miles.  The  U.  S.  Indian  School  has  been  in  existence 
several  years ;  present  teacher,  Miss  Sarah  Er  Morris. 
A  Moravian  Mission  for  the  Indians  also  is  located  here, 
presided  over  by  Rev.  Wm.  H.  Weinland. 

Banning  is  a  most  picturesque  town,  nestling  in  the  pass, 
between  the  San  Bernardino  Mountains  on  the  right,  and 
the  San  Jacinto  Mountains  on  the  left.  It  has  a  right  to 
boast  of  its  wonderful  scenery  and  unequaled  location.  For, 
with  the  desert  at  its  feet,  it  still  gazes  nearly  all  through 
the  year  upon  the  snow-clad  summits  of  the  highest  moun- 
tains of  Southern  California. 

Being  thus  located  it  has  a  first-class  water  supply,  both 
in  purity  and  quantity.  The  former  virtue  is  a  great  in- 
ducement to  those  who  are  invalids,  and  who  need  the 
dry  antiseptic  qualities  of  the  desert,  and  the  latter  blessing 
is  of  incalculable  benefit  in  reclaiming  thousands  of  other- 
wise barren  acres  and  making  of  them  beautiful  and  profit- 
able orchards. 

Banning  has  churches,  schools,  livery  stables,  stores  and 
hotels,  and  is  growing  and  progressive.  The  chief  hotel 
is  the  "Banning,"  with  a  capacity  of  25  persons.  Rates 
per  day,  $2.50;  per  week,  $10.00  to  $12.00.  Mrs.  Fraser, 
manager. 

A  court  of  Independent  Order  of  Foresters  is  well  estab- 
lished, and  here  is  located  St.  Boniface's  Industrial  School 
for  Indians,  with  an  attendance  of  120  boys  and  girls.  It 
is  under  the  management  of  the  Brothers  of  St.  Joseph, 
Rev.   Father   B.   Florian   Hahn,   superintendent. 

Six  miles  from  Banning  is 

BEAUMONT: 

Population,  ,500.  To  T>os  Angeles,  SI  miles.  To 
San  Francisco,  56.5  miles.  To  New  Orleans,  1,925 
miles. 

It  is  situated  in  the  broadest  part  of  the  San  Gorgonio 


296 

Pass,  at  an  altitude  of  2,560  feet,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
favored,  as  far  as  soil  and  climate  are  concerned,  of  all 
the  young  colonies  of  Riverside  County,  in  which  it  is 
located.  It  has  a  full  quota  of  churches,  schools,  business 
houses  and  town  hall. 

Farming  is  extensively  carried  on  and  it  is  probable  that 
over  100,000  acres  of  wheat  and  barley  are  planted  out  this 
season.  Fruit  raising  is  also  of  great  importance  to  this 
district. 

There  are  two  good  hotels,  the  "Beatty,"  Capacity  for  30 
persons.  Rates,  per  day,  $1.00;  per  week,  $7.00;  W.  A. 
Beatty,  manager,  and  the  "Del  Paso,"  with  a  capacity  for 
30  persons,  rates,  per  day,  $r.oo;  per  week,  $7.00.  Mrs. 
M.  M.  Fisher,  manager. 

The  mountain  streams  and  canyon  falls  near  here  have  a 
far  reaching  reputation  for  their  beauty  and  picturesque- 
ness. 

Three  miles  nearer  to  Los  Angeles  is 

EL  CASCO : 

Population,  75.  Elevation,  1,874  feet.  To  Los 
Angeles,  73  miles.  To  San  Francisco,  557  miles. 
To  New  Orleans,  1,934  miles. 

This  is  a  small  station,  but  the  country  round  about 
contains  some  of  the  best  farms  in  the  State,  and  stock 
raising  and  dairying  are  carried  on  to  a  large  extent.  There 
are  three  creameries  at  present  doing  a  large  business,  and 
one  public  school,  centrally  located. 

Another  nine  miles  traveled  and  the  visitor  is  fairly 
within  Southern  California's  more  sheltered  and  especially 
favored  region,  at 

REDLANDS  JUNCTION : 

Population,  300.  Elevation,  1,101  feet,  S.  P. 
Survey.  To  Los  Angeles,  64  miles.  To  San  Fran- 
cisco, 548  miles.     To  New  Orleans.  1,943  miles. 

The  chief  industry  of  this  district  is  orange  and  lemon 


297 

raising.     In  1903  375  cars  of  oranges  were  shipped.    Three 
packing  houses  are  kept  busy  with  this  work. 

Redlands  proper  will  be  described  elsewhere.    See  Index. 

Three  miles  further  and  the  train  stops  at 

LOMA  LINDA: 

Here  is  one  of  Southern  California's  fine  hotel  and 
pleasure  resorts.  The  beautiful  main  building  with  its 
turrets,  balconies  and  porches,  is  set  upon  a  commanding 
mound  that  ends  in  the  mountain  wall  to  its  back.  On 
either  side  the  land  slopes  gently  down  to  the  San  Bernar- 
dino Valley.  To  the  northward  is  one  of  the  lovely  scenes 
of  Southern  California.  In  the  foreground  the  old  orange 
groves  of  the  Mission  ;  be3^ond  the  Santa  Ana  River  and 
farther  yet  the  city  of  San  Bernardino  and  its  tree-sheltered 
environs  spreading  northward  to  that  artistically  outlined, 
majestic  mountain  wall,  the  San  Bernardino  Range.  To  the 
left,  Colton  town  glistens  in  the  sunlight. 

COLTON : 

Population,  2,000.  Elevation,  965  feet.  To  Los 
Angeles,  58  miles.  To  San  Francisco,  542  miles. 
To  New  Orleans,  1,948  miles. 

Is  three  miles  from  San  Bernardino,  and  seventy  miles 
east  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  This  is  a  prosperous  and  growing 
city,  and  is  reached  also  by  the  Santa  Fe.  It  has  good 
water  and  electric  li.ght  systems,  three  hotels,  good  schools, 
four  churches,  an  opera  house,  the  largest  fruit  cannery  in 
Southern  California,  an  extensive  flouring  mill,  large  ce- 
ment works,  and  good  live  active  newspapers.  The  State 
Citrus  Fair  is  also  held  here  annually. 

Not  far  from  the  line  of  the  Southern  Pacific  at  Declez, 
near  Colton,  is  a  quarry  of  good  building  granite.  This 
stone  weighs  about  175  pounds  per  cubic  foot,  and  is  very 
hard,  tough,  compact,  uniform,  durable  rock,  pure  granite. 


298 

The  buttes  of  nearly  bare  rock  rise  out  of  the  plain  to  a 
height  of  300  to  400  feet.  This  quarry,  it  is  said,  could  be 
worked  on  two  faces,  each  about  one-fourth  mile  in  length. 
There  is  estimated  to  be  in  this  quarry  six  billion  cubic 
yards  of  rock. 

The  famous  marble  staircase  in  the  Academy  of  Design 
in  San  Francisco  is  one  of  the  choicest  marble  specimens 
from  Colton's  marble  quarry,  situated  near  the  Slover 
Mountain.  I  have  seen  some  fine  varieties  of  marble,  from 
the  purest  while  to  almost  black,  from  this  quarry. 

Colton's  high  altitude  and  its  immunity  from  fogs,  makes 
it  a  desirable  place  for  those  afflicted  with  pulmonary 
troubles. 

The  best  hotel  is  the  Capital,  capacity  for  40  persons. 
Rates,  per  day,  $2.00;  per  week,  $6.00.  Mr.  J.  Johnson, 
manager. 

Grapes  for  raisins  and  wine,  oranges,  olives,  and  figs  are 
the  chief  horticultural  products,  while  the  apricot,  peach, 
pears  and  pomegranates  do  well. 

Passing  Bloomington,  which  is  the  station  for  a  rapidly 
growing  horticultural  and  canaigre  growing  region,  fifteen 
miles  from  Colton, 

CUCAMONGA  is  reached. 

Population.  1.193.  Elevation.  952  feet.  S.  P. 
Survey.  To  Los  Angeles,  43  miles.  To  San  Fran- 
cisco, 527  miles.     To  New  Orleans.  1,964  miles. 

Although  this  place  is  known  as  the  "home  of  the  noble 
grape,"  owing  to  the  diversity  of  soil  and  abundance  of 
water,  it  produces  staples  such  as  haj%  grain,  potatoes, 
etc..  also,  as  well  as  many  varieties  of  fruits.  The  Cu- 
camonga  wineries  are  famous,  having  been  established 
many  years.  There  are  now  3,000  acres  of  vineyard,  in- 
cluding all  varieties  of  raisin,  wine  and  table  grapes.  Some 
of   these   vineyards   require   no   irrigation   whatever.     Add 


299 

to  this  vineyard  property  2,000  acres  of  orchard  trees 
(mostly  orange  and  lemon)  and  one  begins  to  get  some 
idea  of  the  importance  of  the  area  known  as  Cucamonga, 
which  extends  from  the  two  Cucamonga  peaks  in  the  north, 
ten  miles  south,  and  embraces  a  strip  five  miles  wide.  In 
the  town  of  Cucamonga  there  are  a  church,  schools,  two 
stores,  two  blacksmith  shops,  a  pharmacy,  several  good 
physicians,  post  office,  livery  stable,  brick  yard  and  every- 
thing necessary  for  a  thriving  town.  There  are  many 
beautiful  homes  in  and  near  the  place.  It  is  often  spoken 
of  as  "the  place  of  many  springs,"  getting  this  name  from 
the  many  small  springs  of  the  country. 
Four  miles  from  Cucamonga  and  we  reach 

ONTARIO : 

Population,  2,805.  Elevation.  981  feet,  S.  P. 
Survey.  To  Los  Angeles,  39  miles.  To  San  Fran- 
cisco, 523  miles.     To  New  Orleans,  1,968  miles. 

In  1882  the  Ontario  lands  were  purchased  by  the  Chaf- 
fey  Brothers,  two  energetic  Canadians,  by  whom  the,  as 
yet,  unborn  town  was  named. 

In  December  of  that  year,  before  the  city's  roads  were 
graded  or  pipe  lines  laid,  a  few  enterprising  purchasers  ap- 
peared and,  during  the  first  ten  days  after  the  platting 
of  the  colony  was  partially  completed,  L.  S.  Dyar,  J.  S. 
Calkins,  S.  W.  Strong,  Daniel  Nicholl  and  others  had 
purchased  $28,000  worth  of  Ontario  lands.  Rough  as  the 
appearance  of  the  place  was  then,  the  situation  captivated 
those  far  seeing  men.  Prices  at  that  time  ranged  from 
$150  to  $200  per  acre.  Some  of  the  early  buyers  im- 
proved their  lands  during  the  first  year  of  the  colony's 
existence,  gaining  in  this  way  the  bonus  which  Ontario's 
founders  at  that  time  offered  to  settlers. 

The  first  two  decades  of  Ontario's  life  have  been  like 
the    transformation    produced    by    the    touch    of    a    fairy's 


300 

wand,  as  compared  witli  the  normal  growth  of  settlements 
on  the  other  side  of  the  continent.  When  a  new  arrival 
sees  the  four  rows  of  evergreen  trees  which  align  On- 
tario's  "Euclid  Avenue,"  200  feet   wide   and   seven   miles 

long,  one  end  of  which  he  sees  distinctly  from  the  other, 
many  of  the  trees  towering  higher  than  a  church  steeple, 
with  a  girth  of  trunk  equaling  the  most  corpulent  of  men, 
and  he  is  told  that  less  than  twenty  years  ago  they  were 
tender  little  plants  protected  by  a  girth  of  shingles  from 
the  marauding  jack  rabbit,  a  smile  of  incredulity  plays 
around  his  face  showing  that  he  doesn't  believe  a  word  of 
it,  and  yet  it  is  perfectly  true. 

He  boards  the  avenue  electric  cars,  rides  to  the  top,  sees 
the  palatial  residences  there,  surveys  the  panorama  of 
orchards,  vineyards  and  dwellings  spread  before  his  be- 
wildered vision.  He  then  re-enters  the  car  and  flies  past 
seven  miles  of  almost  continuous  orange  groves  stretch- 
ing on  either  side,  laden  almost  to  breaking  with  their 
golden  fruit.  The  snow-covered  pinnacles  of  the  rugged 
San  Bernardino  range,  11,000  feet  high,  are  but  a  span's 
distance  apparently  behind  him,  while  the  San  Jose  Hills, 
covered  with  emerald  verdure,  are  in  front  of  him. 

Here  the  attractive  garden  scenes,  the  lovely  parks, 
masses  of  flowers  and  magnificent  avenues  burst  upon  him 
like  a  dream  of  beauty.  Owing  to  the  elevation  of  Euclid 
Avenue  the  enraptured  spectator  gets  a  panoramic  view  of 
scenery  at  once  bewilderingly  beautiful  and  grand.  So 
transparent  is  the  atmosphere  that  mountains  over  a  hun- 
dred miles  distant,  or  islands  in  the  ocean,  appear  to  be 
almost  within  a  stone's  throw.  Southward  looms  up  the 
Santa  Ana  range.  To  the  southeast  Mount  San  Jacinto 
rears  its  head  in  supernal  loftiness,  while  in  the  west  the 
entire  San  Gabriel  range,  with  its  oflFshoots,  and  the 
shimmering  waters  of  the  Pacific  are  descried. 


301 

Ontario's  water  supply  is  derived  from  the  snow-man- 
lled  summit  of  San  Antonio.  This  supply  is  most  abund- 
ant and  can  be  reckoned  upon  as  being  everlasting  as 
the  mountain  from  which  it  flows,  and  the  underground 
system  for  its  distribution  is  as  perfect  as  can  be  devised. 
A  spring  of  water  can  be  made  at  any  time  to  bubble  up  at 
the  will  of  the  owner  of  the  soil  from  the  highest  corner 
of  any  irrigated  tract. 

Along  Euclid  Avenue  there  are  now  guite  a  number 
of  handsome  residences,  and  these  are  constantly  on  the 
increase.  During  1893  over  fifty  residences  were  erected, 
ranging  in  cost  from  $1,500  to  $8,000,  and  the  present 
year  (1903)  has  seen  new  packing  houses,  new  churches, 
new  business  blocks,  new  school  houses  and  many  new 
homes. 

The  best  hotel  is  the  "Ontario,"  capacity  for  60  persons. 
Rates  per  day,  $2.50;  per  week,  $8.00  to  $12.00.  C.  Prank- 
ish, manager. 

Ontario  has  an  excellent  system  of  public  schools,  and 
there  is  an  atmosphere  of  culture  and  refinement  about  the 
town  and  its  people.  It  has  several  banks  and  is  a  bust- 
ling, active,  business  community  with  a  good  number  of 
first-class  stores. 

Under  present  civic  government,  there  are  no  saloons 
in  Ontario.  Further  particulars  will  be  given  about  On- 
tario .and  its  tributary  district  under  the  heading  North 
Ontario. 

CHINO: 

Population,  1,920.  Elevation,  716  feet,  S.  P. 
Survey.  To  Los  Angeles,  45  miles.  To  San  Fran- 
cisco, 529  miles.       To  New  Orleans.    1,962  miles. 

Five  miles  southward,  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the 
Chino  Ranch,  and  though  only  thirteen  years  old  (in 
1903)    is  prosperous  and  growing.     It  is  reached  directly 


302 

Iiy  llic  Soullicni  Pacific  Railway  and  also  liy  the  Chino 
Valley  K.  R.  from  Ontario.  It  has  good  schools,  churches, 
hotels,  the  Star,  capacity  12  persons,  rates  $1.00  per  day,  Mrs. 
M.  E.  Birgamin;  the  Chino,  capacity  12  persons,  rates 
per  day,  $1.00,  E.  W.  Bradley;  People's  Hotel,  capacity  19 
persons,  rales  $1.00  per  day,  $5.00  per  week,  J.  W.  Saw- 
yer, manager;  business  houses  and  a  live  newspaper  well 
edited.  The  Chino  Ranch,  on  which  the  town  is  located, 
contains  50,000  acres  of  land,  a  large  portion  of  which  is 
sold,  or  being  offered  for  sale,  to  settlers.  The  ranch 
joins  Ontario  on  the  north  and  Pomona  on  the  west. 

Five  thousand  acres  here  are  devoted  to  the  culture  of 
ihe  sugar  beet,  and  the  largest  beet  sugar  factory  in  the 
United  States  is  in  operation  at  the  town  of  Chino,  with 
a  capacity  for  handling  one  thousand  tons  of  beets  per 
day.  Formerly  the  crude  sugar  was  shipped  for  refining 
to  San  Francisco,  but  refining  apparatus  is  now  added  to 
the  works  and  the  crop  is  handled  to  the  finish.  Directly 
and  indirectly  this  wealthy  plant  furnishes  employment 
to  two  thousand  people  in  and  about  Chino. 

Chino  is  essentially  a  beet  growing  community,  on  ac- 
count of  the  sugar  factory,  but  large  quantities  of  alfalfa 
are  also  grown. 

Six  miles  from  Ontario  is 

POMONA : 

Population,  6,000.  Elevation.  S57  feet,  S.  P. 
Survey.  To  Los  Angeles,  33  miles.  To  San  Fran- 
cisco, 517  miles.     To  New  Orleans,  1,973  miles. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  prosperous  cities  of  Southern 
California.     It  was  founded  in  1881-2. 

According  to  the  statistics  of  the  State,  it  is  a  fifth  class 
city.  The  name  Pomona,  the  goddess  of  fruits,  suggests 
the  idea  of  luxury  and  effulgent  growth,  peach  aroma 
and  orange  glow  and  rich  bearing  vintage  kissing  the 
earth  with  its  great  clusters  of  amethystine  gems. 


303 

It  is  one  of  the  most  charming  and  fertile  spots  of  its 
own  valley.  In  its  widespread  orchards  there  does  not 
appear  to  he  one  neglected  tree  and  they  swell  in  their 
individual  beauty  as  though  individually  loved.  Beauty 
loving  indeed  were  those  who  first  chose  the  location,  at 
the  foot  of  San  Antonio  Mountain.  This  section  was  once 
known  as  the  San  Jose  Valley  and  a  little  range  of  hills, 
destined  for  a  future  park,  is  still  called  San  Jose  Hills. 

The  streets  are  well  graded  and  watered  and  in  all  direc- 
tions for  miles  and  miles  continuous  rows  of  orchards, 
in  their  profuse  growth,  almost  hide  the  nestling  homes 
of  their  owners.  A  tract,  which  twenty  years  ago  was  a 
desert,  now  yields  almost  two  millions  of  dollars  annuallv 
for  horticultural  products.  While  olives  are  most  gener- 
ously cultivated,  oranges,  apricots,  peaches  and  prunes 
also  yield  large  incomes. 

The  irrigation  of  Pomona  consists  largely  of  mountain 
seepage,  but  artesian  wells  furnish  delicious  and  whole- 
some water,  a  new  domestic  water  system  having  just 
been  established,  for  all  domestic  and  irrigating  purposes. 
A  mountain  stream  in  San  Antonio  Canyon  is  utilized 
by  the  San  Antonio  Electric  Light  and  Power  Company 
to  furnish  light  and  electricity  to  Pomona,  and  also 
throughout  the  valley  to  Los  Angeles,  Pasadena,  etc. 
Oiie-half  of  the  water  of  this  canyon  is  carried  in  con- 
crete pipes  three  and  one-half  miles  to  be  distributed  to 
all  points  necessary.  The  numerous  cienegas,  supplied  by 
seepage  or  subterranean  streams  are  hardly  required  with 
the  wealth  of  artesian  water  already  developed.  In  one 
spot  there  is  a  cluster  of  twelve  artesian  wells  rushing 
out  in  a  massive  liquid  flow  that  has  not  diminished  for 
ten  years.  Pomona  Valley  owns  about  sixty-seven  of  these 
wells  and  Ijeing  free  from  alkaline,  saline  or  other  minerals, 


«»,  -, 


'*;■*? 


41,    w73r-,:_'  ,.:K'^ 


305 

it  is  especially  sanitary.  The  Pomona  Land  and  Water 
Company  sells  the  perpetual  right  to  use  irrigating  water 
with  the  land,  in  ratio  of  one  inch  of  water  to  ten  acres 
of  land,  hence  there  is  not  a  foot  of  soil  that  has  not  ample 
water  for  all  cultivating  purposes. 

A  large  and  popular  tourist  resort  is  Hotel  Palomares, 
presenting  a  frontage  of  260  feet,  and  surrounded  by  palms, 
pines  and  magnolia  trees.  This  handsome  three-story 
building  was  built  at  the  cost  of  $110,000.  Its  wide  veran- 
das, surrounding  almost  the  entire  building,  and  the  little 
park  encircling  it,  give  it  a  retired,  homelike  effect,  es- 
pecially pleasing  to  family  travelers,  who  desire  accommo- 
dations that  suggest  home. 

Here  the  balmy  fragrance  of  the  rose  and  lemon 
verbana  fills  the  air  with  constant  sweetness,  while  the 
rustling  and  tinkling  of  the  leaves  of  palm  and  pine 
radiate  tender  music. 

From  its  high  towers  may  be  seen  a  view  as  inspiring 
as  it  is  romantic.  Four  lofty  mountain  peaks  lift  their 
heads  up  into  the  blue  of  heaven  seeming  to  vie  with  one 
another  in  the  protection  of  the  nestling  town  in  the  valley 
below.  This  rugged,  colossal  quartet  consists  of  the  two 
Cucamonga  peaks,  San  Antonio  and  San  Bernardino, 
11,000  feet  high.  No  visitor  should  miss  the  broad  view 
gained  of  the  country  from  this  handsome  building. 

The  name  of  this  hotel  has  a  musical  Spanish  sound, 
and  as  one  might  suspect,  was  that  of  one  of  the  original 
grantees  of  the  San  Jose  Ranch.  Among  the  three  Span- 
iards concerned,  Ygnacio  Palomares,  Richardo  Vejar  and 
Louis  Arenas,  the  first  was  most  popular  on  account  of  his 
staunch  devotion  to  the  real  interests  of  the  country.  He 
was  made  godfather  of  this  hotel  when  it  was  established 
by  a  stock  company  of  six  in  the  year  1887.  It  is  now 
under  able  management. 


3o6 

There  arc  several  smaller  hotels,  with  good  accommo- 
dations and  central  location  combined,  so  one  may  find 
in  Pomona  every  grade  of  service,  from  the  finest  hostelry 
down  to  the  ordinary  restaurant.  These  have  rates  from 
$1.00  to  $1.25  per  day  and  from  $4.00  to  $G.oo  by  the  week. 

All  branches  of  business  are  undergoing  rapid  develop- 
ment, and  costly  business  blocks  are  erected.  There  are 
three  flourishing  banks,  the  First  National,  the  National, 
and  the  People's  Bank.  All  lines  of  commercial  business 
are  represented  and  street  railway  lines  facilitate  travel. 
Its  wineries  are  in  full  operation,  making  sweet  wines  that 
are  becoming  known  in  England  as  well  as  in  America. 
Large  vineyards  here  yield  from  five  to  ten  tons  per  acre. 
The  Pomona  Cannery  employs  from  three  to  five  hundred 
men,  women  and  children  during  the  season  of  preparing 
deciduous  fruits  for  market.  ^^lanufacturing  possibilities 
are  also  developing,  and  a  very  successful  firm  now  deals 
in  brass  and  iron  goods,  marketed  all  over  the  United 
States. 

One  of  the  leading  features  to  testily  to  Pomona's 
progress  is  the  Carnegie  public  librarj',  well  built  and 
splendidly  equipped,  with  all  modern  appointments,  and 
illuminated  with  electricity.  An  association,  by  the  aid  of 
flower  festivals,  contrived  to  get  a  capital  basis  for  a 
library,  establishing  it  in  1887.  In  1890  it  was  made  a 
city  library,  with  ^Irs.  E.  P.  Bartlett,  one  of  its  original 
charter  members,  as  librarian.  The  books  are  well  selected. 
A  feature  of  no  little  importance,  that  might  in  point  of 
utility  be  suggested  to  other  libraries,  is  a  nucleus  for  a 
mineral  and  conchological  collection. 

Pomona  has  four  newspapers,  two  of  them  ranking  high 
in  the  journalistic  scale  of  the  State.  These  are  The 
Times  and  The  Progress. 

The   public   schools   of   Pomona   are    managed   with   es- 


307 

pecial  care,  and  stand  on  a  par  with  any  in  the  State. 
Two  large  hrick  buildings  costing  $40,000  have  been  erect- 
ed, and  forty  teachers  are  employed,  besides  six  who  do 
kindergarten  work. 

The  Pomona  College  also,  which  is  fully  described  in 
the  chapter  on  the  '"Kite  Shaped  Track,"  is  one  of  the 
educational  institutions  of  Pomona,  of  which  the  city  is 
justly  proud. 

A  comprehensive  view  can  be  gained  of  Pomona  and 
vicinity  by  ascending  the  San  Jose  Hills  on  their  western 
portion.  These  graceful  hills  are  the  accepted  region  for 
a  future  park,  and  to  realize  the  beauty  and  fertility  of 
Pomona  one  should  ascend  this  winding  driveway  and 
feast  the  eye  upon  the  unrolling  valley,  where  link  after 
link  of  fragrant  gardens  and  orchards  rise  in  magical 
succession.  Here  one  may  encompass  an  expanse  from 
the  mountains  on  one  side  to  the  foothill  range  on  the 
other,  and  from  Azusa  at  one  end  to  Ontario  on  the  other. 

These  San  Jose  Hills  are  most  enviable  points  for  resi- 
dences, and  nature  has  already  supplied  picturesque  ad- 
juncts in  artless  groups  of  live  oaks  and  spicy  wild 
flowers,  while  at  their  base  the  running  stream  is  kissed 
by  great  healthy  clusters  of  willows. 

There  is  a  saying  among  farmers,  "Plant  vineyards  for 
your  children,  orange  orchards  for  your  grandchildren,  and 
olives  for  posterity."  Pomona  has  done  all  three  most 
energetically,  and  its  success  has  been  demonstrated  to  the 
world  by  the  prizes  won  at  the  State  Citrus  Fair,  held  at 
Los  Angeles,  under  the  auspices  of  the  State  Horticultural 
Commission. 

One  of  the  largest  single  orange  groves  in  this  region 
is  owned  by  Mr.  Seth  Richards,  of  Boston,  comprising 
300  acres. 

There  are  a  number  of  120  acre  tracts,  but  the  average 


3o8 

consisis  of  forty  or  fifty  acres,  the  whole  making  a  total 
of  nearly  0,ooo  cultivated  acres  at  and  around  Pomona. 
Among  the  fruits  are  lemons,  figs,  peaches,  apricots,  nec- 
tarines, prunes,  apples,  pears,  plums,  cherries,  quinces, 
grapes  and  berries.  Almonds,  walnuts  and  chestnuts  also 
thrive  well.  But  the  acme  of  all  its  horticulture  upon 
which  Pomona's  temperature  rises  with  eloquence  of  praise 
is  the  olive. 

Two  miles  from  the  center  of  the  city  is  located  the 
U.  S.  Experimental  Station,  which  is  also  well  worth 
visiting. 

There  are  tW'O  routes  on  the  Southern  Pacific  from 
Pomona  to  Bassett,  one  the  older,  going  by  way  of  Spadra, 
Puente,  etc.,  and  the  newer  by  way  of  Lordsburg,  San 
Dimas,  Covitia.  Let  us  take  the  new  and  more  northern 
route  first,  and  then  the  lower  one. 

Lordsburg  is  a  Dunkard  settlement  with  a  new  broom 
air,  neatness  and  thrift  being  evident  everywhere.  Sheer 
force  of  great  advantages  has  added  largely  to  its  popula- 
tion in  the  last  few  years.  A  Dunkard  college  is  main- 
tained. These  generous  and  honorable  people  are  building 
an  ideal  colonj'.  But  the  Gentile  is  not  absent ;  his  eager 
eye  has  noted  Lordsburg's  prosperity.  The  orchards  of 
citrus  and  deciduous  fruits  and  of  walnuts  are  wonderfully 
productive — partly  due,  no  doubt,  to  wonderful  care.  Large 
packing  houses  will  be  observed  here  as  well  as  at  Covina 
and  San  Dimas. 

San  Dimas  and  Lordsburg  are  both  on  the  Kite-Shaped 
Track.     See  that  chapter  for  further  particulars. 

San  Dimas. — Four  miles  further  is  San  Dimas,  a  smaller 
edition  of  Covina.  It  possesses  scenic  advantages,  in- 
cluding a  romantic  waterfall.  On  the  material  side  pros- 
perity is  shown  in  a  fine  packing  house,  a  sign  of  the  times 
at  all  the  fruit  colony  stations. 


309 

Covina  is  the  largest  berry  district  in  Southern  Cali- 
fornia, but  it  is  great  not  alone  in  small  things.  In  orange 
shipments  it  is  among  the  three  or  four  leading  points  in  the 
State,  and  modestly  says  little,  either  of  that  or  of  its  large 
returns  from  deciduous  fruits  and  agriculture.  There  is  a 
growing  suspicion  that  the  good  people  of  Covina  are 
quietly  getting  rich  without  taking  the  outside  world  into 
their  business  confidence.  It  is  acquiring  metropolitan  airs, 
and  is  destined  to  be  one  of  the  largest  of  the  interior 
Southern  California  cities.  More  will  be  said  about  Co- 
vina in  the  chapter  on  the  Kite-Shaped  Track. 

Let  us  now  return  to  the  other  route. 

SPADRA: 

Elevation,  705  feet,  S.  P.  Survey. 

A  town  named  by  its  founders  for  their  former  home 
in  Missouri.  It  is  thirty  miles  east  of  Los  Angeles,  and 
is  located  in  a  rich  hay,  grain  and  oil  country.  Ten  miles 
nearer  to  Los  Angeles  is 

PUENTE: 

Elevation,  323  feet,  S.  P.  Survey.  To  Los  An- 
geles, 19  miles.  To  San  Francisco,  503  miles.  To 
New  Orleans,  1,988  miles. 

Also  a  small  town,  located  just  below  the  Puente  Hills, 
where  the  oil  wells  of  the  Puente  Oil  Company  are  in  ac- 
tive operation.  The  soil  of  this  region  is  as  rich  and 
fruitful  as  any  in  Southern  California,  and  is  destined  to 
supply  homes  for  many  thousands  of  prosperous  people.  It 
is  a  great  agricultural  locality,  and  large  amounts  of  grain, . 
hay  and  other  produce  are  shipped  annually.  The  "Puente" 
is  a  good  hotel,  with  a  capacity  for  lo  persons.  Rates  $i.oc 
per  day;  $6.oo  per  week.    H.  Heinze,  manager. 


310 

MONTE: 

Elevation.  286  feet,  S.  P.   Survey.     To  Los  An- 
Rolos,  14  miles.    To  San   Francisco,   498   miles.     To 
New  Orelans,  1,993  miles. 

The  oldest  American  colony  in  Southern  California,  was 
established  July  4,  1852,  by  immigrants  from  Arkansas  and 
Texas.  Here  the  Baptists  founded  their  first  church.  For 
a  long  time  there  was  trouble  over  the  land  titles,  by  reason 
of  ATcxican  grants.  Nearly  all  the  pioneers  have  died  or 
moved  away,  and  most  of  their  children  have  gone,  yet  there 
is  still  a  goodly  population.  Hotel  "El  Monte."  capacity 
12.    Rates  by  week,  $5.00.    W.  R.  Dodson. 

The  name  literally  means  a  mountain,  but  by  some 
process  it  is  here  understood  to  mean  woods,  as  a  forest 
of  willow  once  covered  all  the  lowlands  of  Monte. 

These  lowlands  are  situated  at  the  lower  end  of  the  San 
Gabriel  valley,  just  north  of  the  Paso  del  Eartolo,  through 
which  the  San  Gabriel  river  flows  into  the  Los  Angeles 
valley.  They  are  about  four  miles  wide,  east  and  west, 
by  eleven  miles  long,  north  and  south.  They  are  quite 
damp  and  moist,  from  the  fact  that  the  water  comes  up 
close  to  the  surface  everywhere  on  them.  Irrigation  is  a 
thing  not  needed.  For  this  reason  alfalfa  and  maize  grow 
luxuriantl}^,  and  horses,  neat  cattle  and  hogs  have  abundant 
feed.  The  blue  gum  tree  also  yields  a  large  supply  of  fire 
wood.  Melons,  squash,  and  other  vegetables  do  remarkably 
well. 

This  section  being  low  and  moist,  has  more  frost  than 
the  dry  uplands;  hence  citrus  fruits  are  barred. 

A  mile  west  is 

SAVANNAH : 

Elevation.  296  feet.  S.  P.  Survey.  To  Los  An- 
.sreles,  12  miles.  To  San  Francisco,  496  miles.  To 
New  Orleans,  1,995  miles. 

A   hamlet    possessing   all   the    characteristics    of    Monte. 


311 

Hops  are  largely  grown  in  this  region,  all  of  which  are 
used  by  the  Los  Angeles  brewers. 

The  relic  hunter  with  his  kodak  can  find  no  more  invit- 
ing field  than  the  surrounding  country.  A  half  a  dozen  or 
more  old  houses,  built  in  the  southern  style,  forty  years 
ago,  at  great  cost,  with  lumber  bought  of  the  Mormons 
at  San  Bernardino,  lend  an  air  of  antiquity  to  its  rural 
scenes. 

After  leaving  Savannah  the  next  town  is 

Rosemead,  with  the  same  surrounding  country  and  nearly 
the  same  characteristics. 

Two  miles  further  on,  the  traveler  looks  upon  one  of 
the  oldest  towns  in  Southern  California. 

SAN  GABRIEL: 

Population,  2,501.  Elevation,  409  feet,  S.  P. 
Survey.  To  Los  Angeles,  10  miles.  To  San  Fran- 
cisco, 494  miles.     To  New  Orleans,  1,997  miles. 

was  founded,  as  I  have  already  shown  in  the  chapter  on 
the  Missions,  by  the  indefatigable  Padre  Junipero  Serra. 
A  quarter  of  a  mile  west  of  the  Southern  Pacific  depot  is 
the  old  Mission.  The  electric  car  system  of  Los  Angeles 
has  a  line  which  passes  through  the  centre  of  the  little  town 
and  has  its  terminus  at  the  Mission.  San  Gabriel  is  a 
quaint  and  picturesque  old  town,  strangely  old  and  strange- 
ly modern.  The  ancient  church,  the  Mexican  adobes,  the 
dark-faced  Mexican  men,  women  and  children,  are  in  one 
eye,  while  the  other  surveys  one  of  the  finest  hotels  of 
Southern  California,  the  "Raymond."  together  with  the 
luxurious  homes  and  ranches  of  cultured  Americans.  Let 
the  interested  reader,  reperuse  what  I  have  written  on  the 
Mission  of  San  Gabriel,  and  the  Historical  Chapter,  and  he 
will  not  fail  to  look  upon  this  ancient  village  with  keener 
enjoyment  and  greater  delight. 
Of  the   larger   industries,    San    Gabriel   has   three   large 


312 

packing  houses.  The  Golden  Gate  Fruit  Co.  also  manufac- 
tures fruit  juice.  Here  also  is  the  San  Gabriel  Sanitarium 
for  nervous  diseases,  with  fifty-five  patients  at  the  present 
date.     (1903.) 

Interested  sight-seers  will  enjoy  a  drive  up  the  San 
Gabriel  Boulevard,  which  is  lined  on  either  side  with  pep- 
per trees  and  ancient  eucalyptus  trees  in  the  center.  Here, 
also,  is  found  the  oldest  orange  grove  with  the  largest 
orange  trees  in  the  country. 

The  San  Gabriel  Hotel  furnishes  good  accommodations 
at  the  rate  of  $3.00  per  day. 

A  pleasant  mile's  drive  from  San  Gabriel  is  the  celebrated 
Sunny  Slope  Vineyard  and  Winery,  now  owned  by  a 
wealthy  English  syndicate,  and  close  to  Sunny  Slope  is 
Rosemead,  a  noted  stock  farm  and  race  track,  where  a  num- 
be  of  well  known  racers  have  been  bred  and  trained. 

One  mile  from  San  Gabriel  is  the  flourishing  little  town  of 

ALHAMBRA: 

Population,  1,182.  Elevation,  425  feet,  S.  P. 
Survey.  To  Los  Angeles,  9  miles.  To  San  Fran- 
cisco, 493  miles.     To  New  Orleans,  1,998  miles. 

This  is  a  beautiful  residence  settlement  amongst  orange 
groves  and  peach  orchards,  population  1,182,  many  of  these 
being  owned  by  wealthy  settlers,  or  well-to-do  business 
men  of  Los  Angeles,  who  prefer  to  reside  in  this  attractive 
surburban  town.  There  are  three  church  buildings,  two 
other  denominations  holding  their  services  in  a  public  hall. 
The  public  schools  are  good.  A  well  printed  newspaper  is 
published  in  the  city.  The  "Alhambra"  is  a  good  hotel, 
with  a  capacity  for  50  persons,  rates  per  day  $1.50,  per  week 
$7.00.     Mrs.  Furstenfeld,  manager. 

Alhambra  also  has  a  shoe  factory,  which  is  rapidly  grow- 
ing in  size  and  capacity.     It  is  thoroughly  equipped  with 


313 

the  latest  improved  machinery,  and  everything  in  its  ap- 
pointments is  first-class.  It  has  already  more  than  quad- 
rupled its  original  capacity,  and  yet  it  was  only  opened  in 
January,  1893.  Alhambra  shoes  are  now  sent  all  over  the 
Pacific  Coast,  from  Mexico  to  Oregon,  and  as  far  east  as 
Arizona,  Nevada  and  New  Mexico.  The  company  makes 
eighty-five  different  styles  of  men's  and  boys'  shoes. 

Leaving  Alhambra,  a  short  ride  brings  the  tourist  to  the 
city  limits  of  Los  Angeles.  This  city — the  metropolis  of 
Southern  California — has  already  been  fully  described  in 
a  chapter  devoted  to  it.  The  Southern  Pacific  train  upon 
which  we  have  ridden,  discharges  its  local  passengers  at 
several  city  depots,  on  its  way  to  the  handsome  and  com- 
modious "Arcade,"  situated  at  the  junction  of  Fifth  Street 
and  Maple  Avenue. 

From  this  depot  we  will  continue  our  journey  on  one  of 
the  local  trains  of  the  Southern  Pacific  to  the  Sea  at  Santa 
Monica,  where  this  railway  has  built  the  longest  wharf  in 
the  world. 

Passing  Central  Avenue  and  Winthrop  Stations 

UNIVERSITY 

Is  reached.  This  is  really  West  Los  Angeles,  but  it  re- 
ceives its  name  from  the  "University  of  Southern  Califor- 
nia," the  chief  buildings  of  which  are  established  here. 
University  is  an  educational  suburb,  largely  composed  of 
intelligent  and  religious  people,  many  of  them  belonging  to 
the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  to  which  organization  the 
LTniversity  owes  its  origin. 

Leaving  University,  a  wide,  open  valley,  well  cultivated 
and  fairly  populated,  is  entered,  and  a  few  miles  further 
along,  twelve  miles  west  from  Los  Angeles,  a  pretty  settle- 
ment named 


314 

THE  PALMS 

Population,    1,000.      Klevation.    1J4    feet,    S.    P. 
Survey.     To  Los  Anpelcs,  12  miles. 

and  chiefly  known  for  its  deciduous  fruits  is  reached. 
The  place  is  named  from  the  number  of  large  palms  which 
dot  the  region  for  quite  a  distance  near  the  Southern 
Pacific  depot.  It  is  laid  out  in  a  tasteful  style,  and  the 
settlement  being  on  rolling  land,  in  full  view  of  the  ocean 
and  mountains,  is  both  picturesque  and  healthful.  This 
little  town  consists  of  stores,  post  office  and  other  necessary 
business  houses  for  a  place  of  this  size. 

The  "Palm  Villa"  hotel  is  open  the  year  around.  Rates, 
per  day,  $2.00. 

The  chief  industries  are  farming  and  fruit  raising. 

Three  miles  before  reaching  Santa  Monica  the 

NATIONAL  SOLDIERS'  HOME 
To  Los  Angeles,  17  miles. 

is  passed.  This  costly  and  pernjanent  structure  stands 
in  300  acres  of  ground,  which  were  donated  for  the  pur- 
pose. The  building  is  capable  of  accommodating  over  1,500 
old  soldiers  and  already  over  one  thousand  are  sheltered 
within  its  hospitable  walls.  The  home  is  connected  with 
Santa  Monica  and  all  outside  points  by  the  electric  car 
system  and  the  suburban  lines  of  the  Southern  Pacific.  It 
w'ill  be  more  fully  described  in  the  chapter  on  Santa 
Monica. 

Sauia  Monica  is  sixteen  miles  west  of  Los  Angeles,  and 
is  the  southern  terminus  of  the  Southern  Pacific  on  the 
Pacific  shore.  A  special  chapter  is  devoted  to  Santa 
!\Tonica. 


CHAPTER    XXVI. 

SANTA   MOXICA. 

A  beautiful  town  with  broad  streets,  overarched  with  a 
canopy  of  branches ;  a  town  spread  out  on  the  broad  bank 
of  an  upland  and  peering  out  through  a  fine  grove  upon  the 
Pacific ;  a  town  with  homes  flower-embowered ;  a  town 
surrounded  by  a  picturesque  country  given  over  to  green 
fields  and  large  orchards,  with  a  background  of  green  hills 
that  swell  into  purple  mountains,  such  is  Santa  Monica. 

From  the  edge  of  the  bluff  is  seen  one  of  America's  great 
playgrounds,  a  magnificent  beach,  a  broad  expanse  of  glis- 
tening sand  that  affords  fine  surf-bathing.  Ofif  to  the  right 
the  great  ocean  pier  at  port  Los  Angeles  reaches  a  mile 
out  into  the  ocean ;  to  the  left  a  rugged  headland  marks 
the  bay's  domain. 

On  the  bluff  and  overhanging  it  the  landside  smiled  up 
to  b}'  a  beautiful  park  of  trees  and  grass  and  flowers,  its 
ocean  face  to  the  setting  sun,  and  overlooking  a  great  ex- 
panse of  sapphire  sea,  is  Hotel  Arcadia.  Around  this  great 
hotel,  with  its  broad  verandas,  its  beautiful  grounds  and 
its  fine  ocean  views,  linger  many  pleasant  memories. 

For  many  years  Santa  ■Monica  has  been  the  most  popular 
of  Southern  California  seaside  resorts.  This  is  easily 
understood,  for  to  go  swimming  in  this  pleasant  surf,  to  sail 
upon  the  pellucid  waters  of  the  bay,  to  fish  from  the  fine 
pleasure  wharf  or  the  ocean  end  of  its  great  commercial 
neighbor,  to  dream  upon  the  moonlit  beach  with  the  air 
moving  gently  to  the  music  of  the  surf,  to  drive  among  the 
wooden  canyons  of  the  mountains  or  tramp  beneath  the 
clear  dawn  along  the  far  stretches  of  the  beach,  and  to 


3i6 

feast  in  cijicurcan  style  in  the  famous  fishgrill  of  tlie  Ar- 
cadia, are  indeed  experiences  to  be  desired. 

Here  upon  the  beach  in  December,  one  may  watch  the 
bathers  dancing  through  the  surf,  with  the  odor  of  roses 
in  the  air. 

Santa  Monica  is  but  seventeen  miles  from  Los  Angeles. 
The  Southern  Pacific  railway,  and  the  Los  Angeles  and  Pa- 
cific electric  railway  connect  the  cities.  Electric  cars  take 
passengers  between  the  Hotel  Arcadia  and  the  business 
center  of  Los  Angeles  every  half  hour,  giving  the  choice 
of  three  routes — one  via  the  foothills  and  Hollywood,  an- 
other through  the  blooming  Cahuenga  Valley,  and  a  third 
through  a  beautiful  part  of  the  metropolis,  past  club  houses 
and  golf  links.  The  time  is  about  fifty  minutes.  The 
Southern  Pacific  maintains  fast  local  service  with  uptown 
stations  at  both  ends,  the  trains  running  through  in  about 
thirty  minutes.  The  round-trip  rate  between  the  cities  is 
fifty  cents.  Ten-ride  party  tickets  are  sold  for  $1.50  on  the 
steam  lines  and  $2.00  on  the  electric  railway. 

There  is  good  fishing  at  Santa  Monica,  for  between  the 
Channel  islands  and  the  Southern  California  coast  is  the 
best  salt  water  rod-and-reel  fishing  in  the  world.  The  game 
tuna,  the  great  sea  bass,  yellow  tail,  albicore,  barracuda, 
and  many  kinds  of  surf  fish  afford  rare  sport.  Hunting  is 
excellent,  and  many  nimrods  make  the  neighboring  valleys 
and  mountains  the  scenes  of  their  exploits.  In  the  Santa 
Monica  mountains  are  deer  and  bear,  and  up  among  the 
pines  are  mountain  quail  and  gray  squirrels,  with  an  oc- 
casional bob  cat.  The  valleys  are  well  stocked  with  doves 
and  valley  quail,  to  say  nothing  of  rabbits,  which  are  ex- 
ceedingly plentiful.  Winter  duck  grounds  are  not  far  dis- 
tant. 

Yachting  and  boating  on  the  bay  are  favorite  pastimes  of 
visitor.^  and  midwinter  surf  bathing  is  a  delightful  pastime. 


It  is  interesting  to  note  the  struggle  a  newcomer  has  to 
divest  himself  of  the  idea  that  the  name  January  necessarily 
connotes  cold  sea  water.  For  those  who  do  not  care  for 
the  surf  in  winter  and  yet  wish  to  enjoy  a  plunge,  there  is 
the  magnificent  North  Beach  bathhouse,  with  all  kinds  of 
hot  water  baths.  The  great  cement  plunge  with  the  water 
heated  to  a  pleasant  temperature,  is  very  popular 

Santa  Monica  is  the  great  gathering  place  for  the  tennis 
players  of  Southern  California.  The  annual  tournaments 
are  held  here  every  year.  The  fine  golf  links  have  given 
it  the  lead  in  that  sport  also.  Santa  Monica  has  admittedly 
the  best  polo  grounds  in  the  south,  and  has  some  ardent 
devotees  of  the  game. 


ClIAI'TKR    XX\1I. 

FROM   LOS   ANGELES   OVER  THE  TEHACHEPF   MOUNTAINS  ON  THE 
SOUTHERN    I'ACIFIC    RAILWAY. 

Both  Bakersfield  and  Santa  Barbara  arc  on  the  Southern 
Pacific.  The  former  is  northeast,  and  the  latter  northwest 
from  Los  Angeles.  To  reach  both  places  one  travels  on  the 
same  line  as  far  as  Saugus,  where  the  road  forks.  Bakers- 
field  is  on  the  main  line  between  Los  Angeles  and  San 
Francisco. 

Leaving  Los  Angeles  from  Arcade  depot,  and  passing 
First  Street,  Commercial  Street  and  the  River  Stations,  the 
Southern  Pacific  leaves  the  point  where  the  Santa  Fe  and 
Terminal  Railways  join  with  itself  to  form  steel  bands 
along  the  Los  Angeles  River,  and  at  once  enters  the  Val- 
ley of  San  Fernando. 

TROPICO: 

Population,  425.  Elevation,  42S  feet,  S.  P.  Sur- 
vey. To  Los  Angeles,  4  miles.  To  San  Francisco. 
480  miles. 

This  is  one  of  the  children  of  the  boom  and  has  flourished 
Avell,  having  quite  a  number  of  thriving  ranches  and  com- 
fortable homes  and  hotels,  also  a  good  grammar  school. 

^^■EST.  GLENDALE : 

Population,  357.  Elevation,  460  feet,  S.  P.  Sur- 
vey. To  Los  Angeles,  8  miles.  To  San  Fran- 
cisco,  476  miles.     To  New  Orleans,   2,013  miles. 

This  is  the  west  portion  of  the  town  of  Glendale,  which 
is  situated  a  little  to  the  northeast.  The  town  is  more 
fully  described  elsewhere.    See  index. 

Scpulveda.  One  mile  further,  nine  miles  from  Los 
Angeles,  this  station,  located  in  the  midst  of  vineyards, 
orange,  olive  and  peach  orchards,  is  reached. 


319 

BURBANK: 

Population,  3,048.  Elevation,  558  feet,  S.  P. 
Survey.  To  Los  Angeles,  11  miles.  To  San 
Francisco,    473   miles. 

Two  miles  from  Sepulveda  is  a  thriving  town  of  con- 
siderable pretentions.  It  is  situated  in  a  fine  location,  has 
innumerable  advantages  of  soil  and  climate,  and  lands  sell 
for  a  good  figure.  The  town  is  laid  out  on  the  east  side 
of  the  railroad  and  slopes  up  towards  the  mountains.  It 
has  a  fine  hotel,  good  business  houses,  a  seven-thousand-dol- 
lar sclioolhouse,  three  churches  and  a  bank.  Here  fine  de- 
ciduous fruits,  potatoes  and  grain  are  raised  in  abundance. 
The  mountains  overlooking  Burbank  are  the  Verdugo,  and 
in  driving,  riding  or  walking"  many  an  exquisite  spot  may 
be  visited  in  the  canyons,  valleys  and  mountain  nooks  be- 
tween the  town  and  the  Sierra  Madre  range. 

CHATSWORTH  PARK: 

Elevation,  925  feet,  S.  P.  Survey.  To  Los  An- 
geles, 31  miles. 

Has  a  population  of  about  fifty  families.  It  is  reached 
from  Burbank  l:)y  a  short  branch  line  twenty  iniles  long,  of 
the  Southern  Pacific,  and  is  soon  to  be  on  the  main  line 
from  Los  Angeles  to  San  Francisco. 

It  is  a  picturesque  settlement  among  groves  of  live  oaks. 
Its  chief  industries  are  fruit,  stock  and  grain  raising.  A 
quarry,  from  which  the  rock  is  taken  for  building  the 
breakwater  at  San  Pedro  harbor,  is  located  here.  The 
Santa  Susana  tunnel,  on  the  Coast  Line  of  the  Southern 
Pacific,  7,300  feet  long,  is  near  here. 

The  Chatsworth  Hotel  can  accommodate  40  persons 
Rates  $1.50  per  day,  $7.00  per  week.    D.  jMead,  manager. 

Tcjnnga  and  Paconia  are  respectively  sixteen  and  nineteen 
miles  from  Los  Angeles,  their  elevation  is  837  feet  and 
1,007  feet.,  S.  P.  survey,  and  are  small  stations  and  settle- 
ments, picturesque  and  attractive.     These  towns  are  in  the 


320 

"graiiiaiy  of  I>os  Angeles  County,"  this  being  one  of  tlic 
liest  grain  growing  sections  in  tlic  worlrl. 

SAN  FERNANDO: 

Population,  500.  Elevation,  1,060  feet,  S.  P. 
Survey.  To  Los  Angeles,  21  miles.  To  San 
Francisco,  4G3  miles. 

Two  miles  from  Pacoma  is  this  old  and  historic  settlement, 
receiving  its  name  from  the  Franciscan  Mission,  established 
a  century  ago.  The  mission  is  about  a  mile  from  the  town, 
the  more  modern  part  of  which  has  sprung  up  within  the 
past  few  years — during  the  boom  days.  The  fine  building 
to  the  right  as  one  rides  north  is  the  theological  seminary 
building,  founded  by  ex-Senator  JNIcClay,  to  whom  a  large 
portion  of  the  old  San  Fernando  ranch  belonged.  The 
building  still  remains,  but  the  seminary  is  closed,  never 
again  to  be  opened,  probably,  for  the  work  for  which  it 
was  built. 

Near  by  are  to  be  seen  the  extensive  underground  dams 
of  the  company  owning  the  San  Fernando  lands.  These 
are  most  interesting  to  those  who  sagely  question  the  fact 
that  "Southern  California  rivers  flow  underground."  I 
have  not  space  for  a  full  description,  but  the  works  may 
be  understood  if  the  idea  is  conceived  of  an  underground 
river,  dammed  up,  so  that  it  flows  again  to  the  surface, 
where  it  is  piped  to  the  needed  locations. 

The  water  is  pure  and  abundant  and  when  used  upon 
the  soil  makes  it  very  productive.  There  are  good  artesian 
wells  also,  which  furnish  an  additional  water  supply. 

The  town  is  small,  but  prettily  located.  There  are  several 
stores,  a  Methodist  church,  post  and  express  offices,  also 
the  Hotel  Fernando,  capacity  for  6o  persons,  rates  $i.oo 
per  day,  $6.oo  per  week.     Manager,  H.  A.  Lehndorff. 

During  the  wheat  harvest  San  Fernando  is  exceedingly 
busy.  From  lOO  to  250  six  and  eight-horse  teams,  loaded 
with  the  grain  drive  in  and  unload. 


321 

The  olive  orchard  planted  by  the  padres,  is  in  a  good 
state  of  preservation,  some  of  the  trees  being  two  feet  in 
diameter.  A  few  palms,  too,  planted  at  the  same  time,  have 
grown  to  a  great  height,  hence  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at 
that  San  Fernando  is  found  to  be  an  excellent  place  for 
the  growth  of  citrus  and  deciduous  fruits.  One  orchard 
alone,  of  65,000  trees,  has  been  planted  out,  and  fine  oranges, 
peaches,  lemons  and  olives  are  grown  there.  The  valley  is 
bounded  by  the  San  Fernando  Mountains  on  the  east 
and  north,  the  Coast  Range  on  the  west,  and  the  Sierra 
Santa  Monica  on  the  west  and  south.  While  much  of 
it  is  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  the  railway  here  and 
there  passes  through  grease  wood,  cactus  patches,  and  small 
clumps  of  cedars  and  mesquite  bushes,  and  other  portions 
quite  barren  and   desolate. 

The  cacti  are  the  most  interesting  of  the  objects  passed. 
The  pad  cactus,  one  of  the  opuntias,  grows  extensively 
and  is  sometimes  seen  twenty  feet  high.  In  the  wash  of 
the  Tejunga,  near  San  Fernando,  are  beautiful  specimens 
of  the  Agave  Americano,  the  most  remarkable  of  all  the 
agaves.  It  is  the  iiiaguay  of  the  Mexicans,  commonly 
called  the  American  aloe,  or  century  plant. 

At  Fernando  the  passenger  and  freight  trains  take  on 
another  engine  and  after  traveling  five  more  miles  down  the 
San  Fernando  Creek,  light  is  almost  excluded  and  the 
train  goes  into  perfect  midnight.  The  traveler  has  entered 
the  San  Fernando  Tunnel,  6,967  feet  long,  timbered  all 
the  way,  at  an  elevation  of  1,469  feet  above  the  sea.  On 
the  north  side  of  the  tunnel 

Andreii's  is  passed,  and  two  miles  further, 

NEWHALL: 

Population,  442.  Elevation,  1,265  feet,  S.  P. 
Survey.  To  Los  Angeles,  30  miles.  To  San 
Francisco,   454   miles. 


322 

This  place  gains  its  name  from  a  former  proprietor  of 
the  50,000  acre  ranch,  through  which  the  railway  passes. 
He  owned  thonsands  of  cattle  and  sheep,  which  roamed  at 
will  through  his  vast  and  unfenced  estate. 

Newhail  has  a  large  hotel,  school  and  church,  and  an 
abundance  of  good  water,  both  for  domestic  and  agricultu- 
ral purposes. 

Three  miles  away  is  the  Placerita  Canyon,  where  hydrau- 
lic mining  is  still  carried  on.  It  was  in  this  neighborhood 
that  gold  was  first  discovered  by  the  padres,  and  miners 
are  still  at  work  washing  out  the  precious  metal. 

Honey  is  also  shipped  in  large  quantities  from  Newhail. 

Two  miles  away  are  the  Newhail  oil  fields,  which  arc 
both  extensive  and  productive.  There  are  many  oil  spring - 
scattered  over  the  land.  There  are  also  large  masses  of 
oil  rock,  or  brea,  while  quantities  of  oil  may  be  seen 
oozing  from  the  rock  strata,  this  region  being  so  strongly 
impregnated  with  gas  and  oil  that  the  escaping  gas  can 
be  plainly  detected  as  it  issues  from  the  ground.  One  oil 
well  here  produces  pure  petroleum  which  is  claimed  to  be 
specific  for  rheumatism. 

SAUGUS : 

Elevation,    1.159    feet,    S.    P.    Survey.      To    Los 
Angeles,   32  miles.     To  San  Francisco,   452  miles. 

Is  a  somewhat  dreary  and  desolate  place  at  the  depot. 
R.  R.  Eating  House,  rates  $3.00  per  day;  proprietor,  M. 
Wood.  The  road  to  Santa  Barbara  diverges  to  the  left 
here.     Proceeding  northward  on  the  main  line  we  reach 

LANG : 

Elevation,    1,682    feet,    S.    P.    Survey.      To    Los 
Angeles,   44  miles.     To  San  Francisco,    440  miles. 

This  is  a  small  station,  situated  about  half  a  mile  west  of 
where  the  "last  spike"  was  driven,  September  5,  1876,  that 
united   the   two   lines,   bnildins::   from   Los   Angeles   to   San 


Francisco,  and  San  Francisco  to  Los  Angeles.  Not  far 
from  the  station  is  a  group  of  ten  white  sulphur  springs  of 
great  virtue. 

As  a  health  resort  for  those  who  love  the  wilds  of  nature, 
this  is  an  ideal  spot,  and  Dr.  Walter  Lindley,  in  his  "Cali- 
fornia of  the  South"  grov/s  quite  enthusiastic  over  its  many 
advantages. 

RAVENA: 

Elevation,     2,262     feet.       To       Los     Angeles,     54 
miles.     To  San  Francisco,  480  miles. 

This  small  village  is  largely  composed  of  ]\Iexicans, 
log,  sod  and  stone  houses  being  the  prevailing  styles  of 
architecture.  At  one  time  is  was  a  common  saying  that 
here  "moss  agates  and  grizzly  bears  abounded."  About 
a  mile  below  Ravena,  on  the  right,  high  up  on  the  side  of 
the  mountain,  and,  possibly,  6oo  feet  above  the  cars,  is  a 
huge  rock,  called  "George  Washington,"  from  the  alleged 
likeness  it  bears  to  the  "father  of  our  country." 

From  Lang  to  Acton  the  train  winds  its  waj'  through 
the 

Solcdad  Canyon.  As  the  cars  pass  through  this  canyon 
of  solitude  it  is  well  to  look  out  and  enjoy  its  rugged 
wonders.  It  is  a  deep  gorge,  with  towering  mountain'  cliffs 
rising  on  the  south  side,  in  places  from  500  to  2,000  feet 
above  the  bed  of  the  canyon.  These  cliffs  seem  as  if  they 
had  been  furiously  cleft  into  deep  narrow  ravines,  and  then 
left  to  despair  and  desolation,  for  they  are  as  wild,  gloomy 
and  dismal  gorges  as  the  most  vivid  imagination  could 
conceive.  It  is  about  twenty-five  miles  in  length,  and  is 
inhabited  largely  by  ^lexicans.  For  many  years  the  noted 
robber  and  outlaw  Vasquez  made  this  his  home,  until  he 
was  captured  and  executed  at  San  Jose,  March  19,  1875. 
The  head  of  the  pass,  near  Acton,  is  known  yet  as  the 
"Robber's  Roost."    Three  miles  from  Ravena 


324 

ACTON : 

Elevation,  2.670  feet,  S.  P.  Survey.  To  Los 
Angeles,  57  miles.     To  San   Francisco,  427  miles. 

Is  reached.  Acton  is  becoming  prominent  as  a  health 
resort,  its  altitude,  equable  temperature,  dry  climate,  and  in- 
teresting surroundings  making  it  a  first-class  place  wherein 
to  laugh  and  grow  fat.  At  no  place  in  California  can  tour- 
ists see  with  less  trouble  gold  mines  in  operation  than  here. 
There  are  about  twenty  gold  mines,  one  extending  750 
feet  underground,  and  many  of  them  very  productive. 

Acton  is  the  gateway  to  the  new  resort  on  Mt.  Gleason, 
destined  to  be  one  of  the  great  popular  pleasure  places  on 
the  coast.  From  its  6000-foot  elevation  may  be  seen  moun- 
tain, desert,  valley,  ocean.  Trees  up  there  are  200  feet  high ; 
but  if  you  do  not  care  for  climbing,  hunting,  exploring, 
and  quartz-collecting  are  enjoyable  pastimes.  Hotel  Arton, 
capacity  for  25  persons.  Rates,  per  day,  $1.50;  per  week, 
$8.00.     F.  E.  West,  manager. 

Five  miles  before  the  summit  of  Soledad  Pass  is  crossed, 
at  an  altitude  of  3,211  feet,  stands 

VINCENT: 

To  Los  Angeles,  63  miles.  To  San  Francisco. 
422  miles. 

Acton  and  Vincent  are  mere  way-side  stations,  although 
in  the  country  round  about  considerable  farming,  honey 
producing  and  mining  are  carried  on.  Seven  miles  from 
Vincent  is 

PALMDALE : 

Population,  85.  Elevation,  2,658  feet.  S.  P. 
Survey.  To  Los  Angeles,  69  miles.  To  San 
Francisco,  415  miles. 

Here  the  traveler  begins  to  enter  the  region  of  desert 
palms, — Yuccas  as  the  Giant  Cactus,  the  Ccreus  Giganteus 
is  often  improperly  named.    Who  that  has  crossed  the  des- 


325 

erts  of  Arizona  and  Soullicaslern  California  is  not  familiar 
with  these  astonishing  trees,  thousands  of  which  stand 
like  an  army  of  bristling  giants,  guarding  the  sands  that 
give  them  life.  Many  of  them  attain  great  height,  fifty, 
sixty  and  even  seventy  feet  being  sometimes  reached. 

The  Hotel  Grove  at  Palmdale  has  a  capacity  for  25  per- 
sons. Rates  $1.25  per  day;  $6.50  per  week.  Mrs  A.  C. 
Colton,  manager. 

From  Palmdale  to 

LANCASTER: 

Population,  85.  Elevation,  2,350  feet,  S.  P. 
Survey.  To  Los  Angeles,  78  miles.  To  San 
Francisco,    407  miles. 

Is  nine  miles.  Lancaster  is  a  growing  little  town,  being 
the  trading  point  for  many  sheep  and  cattle  men,  as  well  as 
miners  in  the  outlying  districts.  It  has  a  church,  a  school, 
and  a  number  of  stores.  Near  by,  is  the  fertile  Antelope 
Valley,  which  during  the  past  few  years  has  come  into 
considerable  notice  as  an  excellent  place  for  the  growth  of 
almonds.  This  valley  is  destined  to  make  homes  for  thou- 
sands of  people,  the  lands  being  cheap  and  well  irrigated. 
Some  of  the  finest  wheat,  in  large  quantities,  is  raised  here, 
and  cherries  and  raisin  grapes  do  remarkably  well.  The 
water  for  irrigation  is  mainly  secured  from  a  wide  artesian 
well  belt  which  is  found  to  exist,  and  almost  in  every  place 
where  boring  is  done  water  is  easily  found.  Snow  occa- 
sionally falls  here  in  winter,  but  it  does  no  damage,  and, 
indeed,  is  found  to  be  a  help  in  the  growing  of  cherries  and 
apples. 

Antelope  Valley  is  about  seventy-five  miles  long  by  ten 
to  twenty  miles  wide,  and  it  has  70,000  acres  sown  to  grain 
and  nearly  5,000  acres  planted  to  fruit.  It  has  four  irriga- 
tion districts,  eight  incorporated  water  companies,  seventy- 
six  artesian  wells,  fourteen  post  offices,  ten  school  districts, 


326 

nine  stores,  a  good  hank,  one  railroad,  six  Iiotels,  abund- 
ance of  alfalfa  land,  produces  the  earliest  fruit,  is  sur- 
rounded hy  mountains  hearing  silver,  gold,  ashcstos,  marble, 
lime,  gj'psum,  is  unequaled  for  health,  and  has  a  population 
of  about  2,500. 

We  now  leave  Los  Angeles  County,  and,  just  before 
reaching 

Rosamund,  enter  Kern  County.  This  is  a  small  and  un- 
important station,  though  near  by,  we  may  obtain  an  inter- 
esting view  of  the  deceptive  Mirage  Lake.  It  appears  as 
if  of  water,  but  is  mostly  white  sand  and  alkali.  We  are 
now  in  the  heart  of  the 

Mohave  Desert,  where  "the  dry  beds  of  ancient  lakes, 
which,  being  covered  with  salt,  soda  and  borax,  glitter  in 
tile  bright  sunlight  like  sheets  of  burnished  metal,  or  the 
rii)p!ing  waters  that  once  covered  them.  Here  especially 
may  be  witnessed  the  w^eird  and  deceptive  'mirage,'  which 
creates  before  the  vision  of  the  tired  and  thirsty  wayfarer 
enchanting  pictures  of  ponds  and  lakes,  bordered  with  shady 
trees  and  turf,  only  to  dissolve  them  upon  nearer  approach 
and  leave  in  their  place  salty  desolation,  which  seems  all  the 
more  desolate  for  the  fleeting  vision  of-  beauty.  But  man 
untiringly  wrests  from  even  these  unfriendly  wastes  their 
stores  of  wealth — borax  and  salt. 

"The  desert  shows  a  great  variety  of  the  most  attractive 
scenery  in  its  ever  changing  hues,  cliffs,  canyons,  extinct 
volcanoes,  lava  beds  and  sandy  plains.  A  landscape  painter 
would  find  abundant  material  for  striking  pictures  every- 
where, but  especially  among  the  gulches  and  precipices  of 
■Red  Rock'  and  'Iron'  canyons,  which  have  but  recently 
been  brought  most  prominently  to  public  notice  by  the  dis- 
covery of  e.xtensive  and  rich  gold  placers." 


CHAPTER    XXVIII. 

FROM    LOS    ANGELES    TO    SANTA    BARBARA    ON    THE    SOUTHERN 
PACIFIC   RAILWAY. 

The  trip  from  Los  Angeles  to  Saugus  is  the  same  as 
described  in  the  last  chapter.  Here  we  take  the  Coast 
Line  of  the  Southern  Pacific.  The  first  place  of  import- 
ance reached  is 

Cainulos,  now  made  famous  as  the  home  of  Ramona. 
"The  richly-sculptured  San  Fernando  Mountains  hem  it 
in  on  the  south,  the  foothills  of  the  'Sierra  de  San  Rafael' 
on  the  north,  and  through  the  pleasant  little  valley  between, 
runs  the  Santa  Clara  River.  On  its  margins  are  clumps 
of  willows  and  groves  of  wide-spreading  sycamores,  and 
near  where  its  clear  waters  run  by  the  old  homestead,  may 
be  seen  the  'artichoke  patch,'  and  the  'flat  stone  wash- 
boards, on  which  was  done  all  the  family  washing." 

"The  house,  as  described  by  Mrs.  Jackson,  was  the  rep- 
resentative house  of  the  half-barbaric,  half-elegant,  wholly 
generous  and  free-handed  life  led  there  by  Mexican  men 
and  women  of  degree  in  the  early  part  of  this  century.' 
The  foothill  pasture  lands,  the  sheep  carrols,  the  vine- 
yards, olive  yards  and  orchards,  the  old  Chapel,  etc.,  etc., 
are  all  to  be  seen  just  as  they  are  described  in  this  interest- 
ing book.  Mrs.  Jackson's  descriptions  of  Southern  Cali- 
fornia scenery  are  exceedingly  fine,  and  it  is  not  a  matter 
of  wonder  that  she  chose  this  beautiful  spot  as  the  home 
of  her  charming  Ramona." 


PIRU: 


Population,  161.  Elevation,  700  feet,  S.  P.  Sur- 
vey. To  Los  Angeles,  49  miles.  To  San  Fran- 
cisco,  435  miles.     To  New  Orleans,   2,055   miles. 


328 

Tt  is  licrc  thnt  D.  C.  Cook,  a  publislicr  of  Sunday  School 
prriodicals,  lias  an  extensive  ranch  of  14,000  acres,  of  which 
1,000  acres  are  in  frnit  trees  and  vines.  The  chief  industries 
are  farming  and  oil.  A  large  number  of  oil  wells  have 
been  sunk  this  season  (1903)  by  the  Union  Oil  Company. 
The  Southern  Pacific  Company  has  opened  up  a  new  terri- 
tory for  oil  wells  and  a  large  tank  sufficient  to  hold  twenty- 
five  cars  of  oil  has  been  erected  at  the  station.  The  Piru 
River  is  a  trout  stream  and  many  go  up  to  enjoy  its  beau- 
tiful scenery  and  mountain  air,  as  well  as  the  fishing. 
Although  Piru  has  tlie  cooling  breeze  of  the  ocean  to 
modify  its  climate,  fogs  are  rare  and  its  days  and  nights 
are  alike  dry.  A  new  schoolhouse  of  two  rooms  has  just 
been  completed  and  furnished.  There  are  two  good  hotels, 
the  "Piru,"  with  a  capacitj^  of  20  persons,  rates  $1.25  per 
day,  $6.00  per  week,  F.  E.  Burnham,  manager ;  the  Dune- 
den,  capacity  sixteen  persons,  rates  $1.50  per  day,  $6.00  per 
week ;  R.  Dunn. 

FILLMORE: 

Population,  3S7.  Elevation,  469  feet,  S.  P.  Sur- 
vey. To  Los  Angeles,  57  miles.  To  San  Fran- 
cisco, 427  miles.  To  New   Orleans,    2,062   miles. 

A  new  and  prosperous  town  well  laid  out,  facing  the 
high  crags  of  the  San  Fernando  Mountains  on  the  south, 
keeps  three  large  citrus  fruit  packing  houses  busy,  also  a 
fruit  cannery  has  been  erected  and  is  doing  a  good  busi- 
ness. The  chief  products  of  the  country  are  fruit,  honey, 
and  oil.  The  sulphur  springs  and  mountain  sccnerv-  up  the 
Sespe  Canj'on  are  "of  interest.  There  is  good  fishing  and 
deer  and  bear  hunting. 

SANTA  PAULA: 

Population,  3,583.  Elevation,  286  feet,  S.  P. 
Survey.  To  Los  Angeles,  67  miles.  To  San 
Francisco,  417  miles.  To  New  Orleans,  2,072 
miles. 


329 

Is  situated  in  the  beautiful  and  fertile  Santa  Clara  Val- 
ley. The  town  was  laid  out  in  1875,  and  has  grown  rapidly, 
especially  since  the  development  of  the  oil  industry.  There 
are  a  large  number  of  profitable  oil  wells  in  the  immediate 
neighborhood,  and  pipe  lines,  storage  tanks  and  refinery  are 
"all  fully  utilized.  Much  of  the  oil,  after  being  refined, 
flows  through  a  four-inch  pipe  to  Hueneme  wharf,  eighteen 
miles  distant,  where  it  is  received  in  specially  constructed 
steamers,  and  thence  transported  to  the  San  Francisco 
market.  This  oil  industry  gives  the  town  a  promise  of  a 
steady  growth,  which  is  strengthened  by  the  fruit  industry 
of  the  surrounding  country.  It  has  the  "Petrolia"  hotel, 
with  a  capacity  for  50  persons ;  rates  $2.00  per  day,  $9.00  to 
$12.00  per  week;  Mrs.  Berringer,  manager.  Also  the  Cot- 
tage, capacity  25,  $1.25  per  day,  $5.00  per  week.  Mrs. 
Wood,  proprietor. 

Leaving  Santa  Paula  we  pass  through  beautiful  groves  of 
eucalyptus  trees,  and  fine  orange  orchards,  with  here  and 
there  extraordinary  English  walnut  orchards.  Lemons, 
limes  and  apricots  also  do  well,  but  corn  and  beans  are  the 
chief  products.  Beans  yield  from  1,500  to  2,000  pounds  to 
the  acre,  and  have  been  known  often  to  give  as  high  as 
2,500  pounds  to  the  acre.  Indeed,  Ventura  is  the  greatest 
bean-producing  county  in   Southern   California. 

SATICOY: 

Population,    1,163.      To    Los    Angeles,    74    miles. 
To   San    Francisco,    410    miles. 

Is  in  the  center  of  a  rich  agricultural  and  horticultural 
district.  The  valley  here  opens  to  about  ten  miles  in  width, 
and  is  so  fertile  that  grain,  corn,  beans,  potatoes,  other 
vegetables,  and  all  kinds  of  fruit,  except  oranges,  grow  in 
profusion.  It  is  noted  for  its  twenty  acres  of  sparkling 
springs  and  its  artesian  wells.     Its  hotel  is  "The  Charles," 


.330 

witli  a  capacity  for  seven  persons;  rates  $1.50  per  day,  $5.00 
per  week. 

Hucucmc  is  an  important  shipping  point  in  Ventura 
County,  and  may  be  seen,  ten  miles  away  to  our  left,  as 
we  journey  forward.  Here  are  large  oil  tanks  filled  by 
pipe  line  from  Santa  Paula,  a  long  wharf,  and  a  lighthouse 
with  a  revolving  light.  The  town  is  in  the  midst  of  an 
artesian  belt,  hence  there  is  an  abundance  of  good  water 
and  as  there  are  over  300,000  acres  of  land  under  cultiva- 
tion, large  quantities  of  grain,  fruit  and  vegetables  are 
shipped  to  other  markets. 

Just  back  of  Hueneme  is  a  rich  territory  of  several  hun- 
dred thousand  acres,  a  great  portion  of  which,  until  recent- 
ly w^as  virgin  soil,  never  having  been  utilized  for  anything 
but  grazing  purposes.  One  of  the  largest  of  these  ranches 
is  the  Simi  ranch  of  98,000  acres,  which  is  now  subdivided 
and  a  large  portion  sold  to  settlers.  It  is  the  subdivision  of 
these  great  ranches  that  is  destined  to  make  the  whole  of 
Southern  California  rich  and  densely  populated. 

A  [OX  PAL VO: 

Population,    426.      To   Los   Angeles,    7S   miles. 

Is  a  comparativeh'  recent  town,  and,  being  well  located 
and  w^ith  a  rich  country  to  back  it  up,  is  destined  to  grow. 
Nearby  is  an  apricot  orchard  containing  1,500  acres,  and 
there  are  many  walnut  orchards  also. 

It  is  one  of  the  principal  shipping  points  of  the  coast 
line,  and  is  the  junction  of  the  Southern  Pacific  branch  to 

OXNARD : 

Population,    nearly    2.000.      To   Los    Angeles,    S3 
miles.      To   San    Fi'ancisco,   400   miles. 

It's  site  four  years  ago  was  an  ordinary  productive  ranch. 
To-day  it  has  fine  brick  business  blocks,  beautiful  homes, 


331 

four  churches,  400  school  children,  school  huildings  cost- 
ing $48,000,  good  hotels,  a  hank  and  one  of  the  largest 
beet-sugar  factories  in  America.  The  factory  can  crush 
2,000  tons  of  beets  dail3^  It  produced  last  year  several 
hundred  carloads  of  sugar,  a  hundred  carloads  of  beans,  and 
a  large  amount  of  grain,  nuts  and  potatoes.  Several  thou- 
sand head  of  cattle  are  being  successfully  fed  on  beet  pulp. 

Oxnard  has  a  fine  avenue  to  a  fine  ocean  beach,  thirty 
minutes'  drive.  It  is  well  located  in  the  fertile  Santa  Clara 
Valley  (not  to  be  confused  with  the  larger  Santa  Clara 
Valley  of  whicli  San  Jose  is  the  center) 

The  Oxnard  factory  was  built  five  years  ago  at  a  cost  of 
$2,000,000.  It  covers  a  tract  of  one  hundred  acres,  upon 
which  stand  factory  buildings,  offices,  boilers  and  sugar- 
houses,  rotary  lime  kilns,  vertical  lime  kilns,  oil  and  stor- 
age tanks,  etc.,  while  the  twin  smokestacks,  one  hundred 
and  fifty-five  feet  high  and  the  ninety-five  feet  high  lime 
kilns  form  notable  landmarks. 

The  raw  beets  are  dumped  into  great  storage  bins,  then 
they  are  well  washed  and  conveyed  on  belts  to  the  top  of 
the  building  to  drop  into  automatic  scales,  which  weigh 
half  a  ton.  From  the  scales  they  drop  into  the  slicers,  round 
bins  with  sharp  knives  set  in  revolving  disks  which 
cut  them  into  long,  slender  strips.  An  endless  belt  con- 
veys the  sliced  beets  to  the  dift\ision  batteries,  where  the 
saccharine  matter  is  extracted,  and  the  piece,  passing  into 
tanks,  undergoes  a  series  of  processes  both  chemical  and 
mechanical  until  it  is  ready  for  the  vacuum  pans.  The 
juice  after  being  clarified  and  evaporated  and  filtered,  is 
l)oiled  at  a  low  temperature  in  these  pans,  three  in  number, 
each  with  a  capacity  of  five  hundred  and  fifty  barrels  of 
sugar.  After  boiling,  the  crystalizers  and  then  the  mixers 
prepare  the  syrup  for  the  centrifugals.  The  Steffins  pro- 
cess is  used  for  extracting  the  sugar,  which,  after  passing 


332 

llirougli  the  gramilators  and  dried,  is  packed  into  one  hnn 
drcd  pound  sacks  and  is  ready  for  market. 

Last  year  the  company  handled  two  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  tons  of  beets,  which  netted  the  farmers  over  a 
million  and  a  quarter  dollars,  and  the  employes  another  half 
million. 

Somis,  on  the  Oxnard  branch  now,  but  within  a  year  to 
be  on  the  new  main  coast  line.  Somis  is  to  be  a  town  of 
importance.  From  an  elevation  of  250  feet  it  overlooks 
the  pretty  Las  Posas  Valley  and  the  ocean,  eleven  miles 
away.  Beans,  nuts,  citrus  and  deciduous  fruits  all  do 
well  here,  and  fine  crops  of  barley,  corn,  w-heat  and  oats  are 
grown. 

VENTURA : 

Population,  2,470.  To  Los  Angeles,  83  miles.  To 
San  Francisco,  400  miles.  To  New  Orleans,  2,081 
miles. 

Is  the  ancient  town  of  San  Buenaventura.  It  is  the  county 
seat  of  Ventura  County,  and  of  late  years  has  aroused  itself 
and  is  now  rapidly  growing  and  improving.  A  new  building 
restriction  that  prohibits  wooden  buildings  being  erected 
on  Main  Street  helps  to  keep  the  town  in  a  progressive 
state.  It  is  lighted  with  electricity  furnished  by  the  Ven- 
tura Water,  Light,  and  Power  Company.  This  company 
owns  the  city  waterworks,^which  supplies  the  city  with  good 
water.  The  water  rates  are  regulated  by  the  city.  Be- 
sides the  stores  and  business  houses  necessary  to  a  city  of 
this  size,  Ventura  has  two  halls.  Armory  and  Union,  a 
city  hall,  public  library,  fire  department,  public  school 
buildings — the  grammar  with  fourteen  teachers  employed, 
and  the  L^nion  high  school,  with  seven  teachers.  There 
are  seven  churches,  as  follows :  Presbyterian,  on  Oak 
Street,  Rev.  C.  B.  Burtham,  pastor;  M.  E.  Church,  on  Oak 
Street,    Rev.    J.    S.    Morrison,    pastor;    Episcopal,   on    Oak 


333 

Street,  Rev.  C.  B.  Rogers ;  Congregational,  Santa  Clara 
Street,  Rev.  C.  N.  Queen,  pastor;  Christian  Church,  Santa 
Clara  Street,  Rev.  J.  C.  Wickham,  pastor;  M.  E.  South, 
Main  Street,  Rev.  Wade  Hamilton,  pastor;  Catholic  Church, 
Rev.  P.  Gorgan,  pastor.  The  four  banks  are :  The  Bank 
of  Wm.  Collins  &  Sons,  D.  E.  Collins,  president;  J.  S.  Col- 
lins, cashier;  Bank  of  Ventura,  E.  P.  Foster,  president, 
J.  A.  Walker,  cashier;  Ventura  Savings  Bank,  E.  P.  Foster, 
president;  J.  H.  Chaffe,  cashier;  First  National  Bank. 

Ventura  has  the  county,  or  Bard,  memorial  hospital.  This 
and  the  Rose  Hotel  are  two  of  the  most  prominent  build- 
ings of  the  place. 

Among  the  societies  of  Ventura  are  the  Knights  Templar, 
E.  T.  and  A.  M.,  Eastern  Star,  R.  A.  Masons,  K.  P.,  Rath- 
bons,  M.  W.  A.,  A.  O.  U.  W.  Fraternal  Brotherhood,  A.  O. 
Foresters,  W.  C.  T.  U.,  Y.  AI.  C.  A.,  and  Y.  W.  C.  A. 

The  city  officials  are :  City  attorney,  Ed.  M.  Silby ;  city 
clerk,  E.  W.  R.  Isensee;  city  marshal,  J.  M.  Kaiser;  city 
treasurer,  Mrs.  H.  R.  McDonell ;  night  watchman,  Henry 
Arillanes. 

The  city  trustees  are :  President,  J.  S.  Collings,  S.  N. 
Shaw,  N.  Vickers,  A.  Carret,  and  W.  H.  Wild.  The  board 
meets  the  first  Alonday  of  each  month. 

The  library  trustees  are:  J.  A.  Walker,  J.  E.  Reynolds, 
P.  W.  Kaufifman,  J.  B.  Wagner,  and  D.  J.  Ruse. 

The  tax  rate  of  the  city  is  $2.40;  county  tax  $2.00. 

The  city  has  good  telephone  and  telegraph  systems,  and 
two  newspapers,  the  Free  Press,  and  Ventura  Democrat. 

It  is  a  stopping  place  for  the  steamers  of  the  Pacific 
Coast  Steamship  Company,  and  with  its  wharf,  large  ware- 
houses, a  flour  mill,  and  cannery  it  employs  many  men.  It 
ships  beans  from  its  vast  and  fertile  fields  by  the  trainloads. 
The  town  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  Ventura  River,  and 
lies  on  a  slope  of  the  foothills  of  a  mountain  ridge,  which 


334 

rises  to  an  elevation  of  1,500  to  2,000  feet  above  the  sea. 
Tiic  town  faces  the  ocean  towards  the  west.  The  side- 
walks of  the  business  streets  are  cemented. 

The  beach  affords  an  enjoyable  pleasure  resort,  and  sea- 
bathing is  indulged  in  all  throughtut  the  year.  There  i  = 
also  good  salt  water  fishing  and  trout  fishing  in  the  Ven- 
tura River.  Excursion  parties  arc  often  made  up  to  visit 
the  group  of  the  Santa  Barbara  Islands,  which  lie  in  the 
channel  in  full  view. 

The  San  Buenaventura  Mission,  founded  in  1782  and  mori_- 
fully  described  in  the  Chapter  on  Missions  should  be  re- 
membered, and  visited  by  the  traveler  for  around  these 
old  scarred  walls  lies  much  of  the  early  history  of  San 
Buenaventura. 

Off  to  the  west  from  Ventura  is  the  Ojai  Valley  branch  of 
tlic  Soutiicni  Pacific  A  ride  on  this  road  is  highly  com- 
mended to  the  attention  of  the  intelligent  traveler. 

Tlie  Ojai  Valley.  The  climate  of  this  world  famed  val- 
ley being  a  happy  medium  between  the  heavy  and  often  fog- 
ladened  air  of  the  immediate  coast,  and  the  extreme  light- 
ness and  dryness  of  the  more  interior  mountain  heights, 
is  to  a  verj'  great  degree  beneficial  to  people  afflicted  with 
throat  or  lung  trouble  or  rheumatism.  The  Ojai  Valley  has 
been  rightly  called  the  "Asthmatic's  Paradise,"  because  there 
are  few  people  afflicted  with  this  distressing  and  whimsical 
ailment,  who  cannot  here  take  a  long,  deep  breath  of  good 
pure  air  without  wheezing. 

The  Ojai  X'aliey  is  a  general  term  given  to  two  small  hill 
valleys — the  Lower  Ojai  and  the  Upper  Ojai — the  two  being 
connected  by  a  good  graded  and  well  kept  road.  The  vil- 
lage of  Nordhoff  is  in  about  the  center  of  the  lower  val- 
ley, which,  in  size,  is  about  ten  miles  long  and  three  miles 
wide,  and  has  a  mean  elevation  of  nearly  i.ooo  feet.  The 
Upper  Ojai  is  much  smaller,  and  has  an  altitude  of  from 


335 

i,ioo  to  1,300  feet;  it  was  first  settled  up,  however,  and 
has  several  large  and  very  rich  farms  or  ranches  under 
thorough  cultivation  and  producing  large  annual  crops  of 
fruits  which,  are  known  for  quality  and  variety.  A  can- 
nery of  recent  date  is  of  importance.  Grains  and  general 
dairy,  farm  products  and  hogs  are  other  sources  of  revenue. 

The  name  "Ojai,"  is  of  Indian  derivation,  and  while  its 
meaning  is  not  certain,  it  is  presumed  to  signify  "nest."  It 
is  not  difficult  to  imagine  either  of  the  valleys  to  be  greatly 
enlarged  birds'  nests,  from  their  general  shape  they  being 
mountain-locked.  The  name  spelled  "Ojai,"  is  pronounced 
"Oh-hi, — but  very  good  authority  on  Indian  lore  says  it 
should  be  pronounced  "Oh-ha-hee,"  which  is  certainly  more 
musical  than  the  shorter  "Oh-hi." 

Besides  the  wonderfully  bracing  air,  which  is  of  so  much 
benefit  to  people  out  of  health,  the  Ojai  offers  much  to 
pleasure-seekers  and  to  home-seekers.  In  the  valley,  and 
within  an  hour's  or  two  hours'  ride,  are  some  of  the  choicest 
bits  of  scenery  enraptured  artists  ever  depicted  upon  canvas ; 
botanists,  geologists,  mineralogists,  and  especially  anchasol- 
ogists,  find  here  a  rich  field  for  their  labors.  The  Ojai 
is  a  most  desirable  home  place,  not  alone  because  the 
climate  and  soil  combined  will  grow  almost  anything  the 
sun  shines  upon,  nor  altogether  because  land  is  still  com- 
paratively cheap  and  the  climate  gives  one  promise  of  a 
full  life,  but  very  largely  because  no  better  class  of  people, 
who  are  cosmopolitan,  form  any  community  anywhere, 
The  village  of 

NORDHOFF: 

Population,  402.     To  Los  Angeles,  99  miles.     To 
San    Francisco,   383   miles. 

Is  neither  large  nor  pretentious,  but  is  a  b.omelike,  pleas- 
ant place,  built  under  the  protecting  branches  of  kingly 
live-oak  trees,  which,  being  left  undisturbed  in  the  streets 


336 

or  wherever  lliey  chance  to  grow,  give  the  place  a  decided- 
ly distinctive  feature.  The  trees  were  here  first,  and  the 
people  either  go  under  ^hem  or  around  them.  Many  of  the 
conveniences  of  larger  places  are  lacking,  it  is  true,  but  still 
there  are  good  stores,  carrying  surprisingly  large  stocks, 
there  is  a  good-sized  hotel — the  Ojai  Inn — with  a  capacity 
for  50  persons.  Rates  $2.00  per  day;  $8.00  to  $12.00  per 
week.  Proprietor,  Mrs.  J.  B.  Eason.  There  is,  besides,  a 
first-class  boarding  house,  three  churches — Congregational 
Christian  and  Holiness — a  livery  stable,  a  drug  store,  meat 
market,  lumber  yard,  modern  laundry,  a  free  library,  two 
blacksmith  shops,  a  bright,  clean,  literary-newspaper.  The 
Ojai,  which  is  working  unceasingly  for  the  good  of  the 
Ojai  Valley.  The  NordhofF  school  district  has  erected  a 
$9,000  school-house.  Nordhoff  is  supplied  with  pure  water, 
piped  from  the  mountains  on  the  north  side  of  the  valley, 
and  with  artesian  water,  piped  from  wells  a  short  distance 
east  from  the  village.  About  a  mile  east  of  Nordhoff,  on 
Ojai  avenue,  on  the  main  thoroughfare  through  the  valley, 
is  the  Presbyterian  church,  and  quite  near  the  popular  hotel, 
Gally's  Cottages.  Capacity  for  65  persons;  $2.00  per  day, 
$10.00  to  $14. ai  jie'  week.  Pniprietor,  Mrs.  M.  Gaily.  An 
asphallum  sidewalk  is  laid  to  connect  these  two  places  with 
the  village.  There  are,  also,  one  or  two  first-class  boarding 
houses  in  the  valley,  including  Dr.  E.  Pierpont's  Sani- 
tarium, besides  several  of  the  ranches  which  occasionally 
accommodate  boarders. 

Located  on  high  ground  at  the  eastern  end  of  Lower 
Ojai  Valley,  is  Mr.  Sherman  D.  Thackers  Casa  Piedra 
Ranch  School,  a  boarding  and  day  school,  where  young 
men  are  prepared  for  any  college  or  university  in  the 
United  States.  The  school  is  one  of  the  institutions  of 
which  the  Ojai  Valley  is  justly  proud. 

From  Nordhoff  one  may  easily  and  enjoyably  reach  the 


337 

pines  of  the  mountains  at  an  elevation  of  over  4,500  feet, 
and  within  a  day's  horseback  ride  is  Pine  Mountain,  a  most 
popular  resort. 

At  the  northwestern  corner  of  the  Lower  Ojai  Valley  is 
Matilija  Canyon,  quite  a  popular  resort,  where  a  number  of 
mineral  springs  are  found.. 

From  Santa  Barbara,  the  "Flower  Festival"  city,  the  Ojai 
Valley  is  reached  by  a  carriage  drive  of  thirty-seven  miles, 
which  can  be  easily  made  in  the  daylight  hours  of  one  day, 
with  mid-day  rest  and  refreshment  at  Shepard's  Mountain 
View  House,  situated  about  half  way  between  the  two  places. 
The  distance  of  this  drive  is  offset  by  a  charming  scenic 
panorama,  wdiich  dozens  of  writers  have  described  in  glow- 
ing pen-pictures.  The  famous  Montecito  and  Carpenteria 
valleys,  and  the  Casitas  (little  houses)  Pass  are  traversed, 
and  at  about  twenty-five  miles  from  Santa  Barbara  the 
Ventura  River  is  crossed  and  the  road  from  Ventura  to 
Nor;lhoff  can  be  made  over  a  choice  of  two  roads — the 
■'grade"  road,  a  fairly  good  road  with  pleasant  scenery,  or 
the  "creek"  road,  which  follows  the  meanderings  of  San 
Antonio  creek,  and  presents  the  most  charming  "wood  and 
water"  scenes — the  most  abrupt  and  unexpected  pictures,  of 
any  road  the  writer  is  acquainted  with. 

Nezv  Jerusalem. — This  is  a  twenty-year-old  settlement, 
and  is  situated  about  seven  miles  due  east  from  Santa  Clara 
River.  There  is  a  small  though  growing  population  with 
post  and  express  offices,  hotel,  stables,  general  merchandise 
stores,  etc.  The  land  around  about  is  exceedingly  fertile 
and  profitable. 

CARPINTERIA: 

Population,  about  500.  To  Los  Angeles.  100 
miles.  To  San  Francisco,  .384  miles.  To  New 
Orleans,  2,10fi  miles. 


338 

And  now  leaving  Ventura,  wc  will  proceed  on  our  way  to 
Santa  Barbara.  Skirting  the  ocean  on  one  side  and  high 
mountains  on  the  other,  through  cactus,  sage  brush  and 
grassy  nooks,  with,  now  and  then,  perpendicular  cliffs  of  i,ooo 
feet  height  to  our  left;  by  numerous  Mexican  cabins,  where 
we  may  see  wooden  plows,  old  carretas,  burros,  goats,  bare- 
footed, black-eyed  babies,  wc  journey  for  seventeen  miles 
to  the  old  Spanish  settlement  of  Carpinteria,  located  pret- 
tily in  the  midst  of  large  and  thriving  fruit  and  walnut 
orchards,  strawberry  beds,  and  bean  fields.  The  Walnut 
Growers'  Association  have  a  fine  dipping  plant  and  ware- 
house and  the  lemon  growers  have  a  curing  house.  The 
walnut  business  is  growing  rapidly  and  is  very  profitable. 

Here  is  located  the  great  grapevine  which  is  known,  and 
has  been  pictured  throughout  the  world.  It  is  8  feet  6 
inches  in  circumference,  and  is  undoubtedly  the  largest  in 
the  world,  outclassing  the  celebrated  English  vine  at  Hamp- 
ton Court.  The  branches  cover  an  arbor  of  over  lOO  feet 
square.  It  bore  in  1896,  10  tons  of  grapes.  Mr.  Wilson, 
the  owner,  has  from  time  to  time  received  flattering  offers 
for  this  great  vine,  but  being  his  chief  pride  it  is  not  for 
sale.  It  is  over  sixty  years  old.  Travelers  will  enjoy  a  visit 
to  Shepard's  Inn,  also  a  mountain  pleasure  resort  and  hotel. 
J.  E.  Shepard,  proprietor,  also  Shepard's  Camp  grounds — 
sulphuric  springs  for  bathing,  etc.  J.  H.  Shepard.  proprie- 
tor. The  beach  is  fine  for  bathing  and  driving.  Franklin's 
Canyon,  which  is  a  beautiful  wooded  canyon,  is  also  worthy 
a  visit. 

In  Carpinteria  the  Hotel  Daerr  will  accommodate  6  per- 
sons;  $1.25  per  day;  $4.00  per  w^eek.  Phill.  Daerr,  proprie- 
tor. The  Presbyterian,  ^Methodist,  Baptist,  Episcopalian, 
Holiness  and  Catholics  have  church  buildings  and  hold  reg- 
ular services.  Five  organized  societies  are  well  represented : 
Woman's  Club,  Farmers'  Club,  Modern  Woodmen,  K.  of 


339 

P.  and  Debating  Club.  A  new  industry  of  this  enterprising 
lown  is  the  excavations  at  the  wharf  for  manufacturing 
salt  from  ocean  water. 

SUMMERLAND : 

Population,  425.  To  Los  Angeles,  105  miles. 
To  San  Francisco,  379-  miles.  To  New  Orleans, 
2,111  miles. 

Possesses  a  fine  hotel,  two  restaurants,  two  groceries,  a 
drug  store  and  a  candy  store.  It  has  also  a  postoffice, 
transfer  and  livery,  an  express  office,  a  barber  shop,  a 
blacksmith  shop  and  a  paint  shop. 

It  is  a  community  of  spiritualists,  and  here  the  peculiar 
tenets  of  this  religious  body  are  given  free  scope,  as  it  is 
the  religion  of  the  major  portion  of  the  inhabitants. 

Here  is  the  most  remarkable  oil  field  in  the  world.  The 
sailors  first  noticed  an  oily  film  on  the  surface  of  the  water 
of  the  Pacific  in  these  parts.  Later,  deposits  of  petroleum 
along  the  shore  where  Snmmerland  now  stands  were  dis- 
covered. It  was  not  until  long  after  the  settlement  of  the 
town  and  natural  gas  had  been  discovered  and  used  for  fuel 
and  light  that  the  oil  wells  were  opened  up.  At  first  the 
prospectors  restricted  themselves  to  land  wells,  but  finally 
is  was  found  that  the  oil  field  extended  into  the  ocean. 
Wharves  were  built  and  they  commenced  to  bore  for  oil 
under  the  sea.  Now  there  are  something  like  a  dozen 
wharves  with  derricks  and  pumping  machinery  and  all 
necessary  paraphernalia  for  refining  oil.  These  wharves 
are  from  250  to  300  feet  long  and  24  feet  wide.  There  are 
300  wells  at  Summerland,  some  of  them  yielding  from  15  to 
20  barrels  a  day. 

IMONTECITO  : 

Population,    640.      To   Los   Angeles,    lOS   miles. 
Although  this  charming  and  picturesque  spot  is  reached  on 


340 

the  railway  some  tlirec  miles  before  arriving  at  Santa  Bar- 
bara, it  is,  in  reality,  one  of  its  suburbs.  Rev.  E.  P.  Roe, 
the  gifted  writer,  speaks  of  Montecito  as  "a  villa  region  of 
blossoming  gardens  and  green  lawns."  Here  grew  the 
monster  grapevine  that  was  cut  down  and  removed  to  the 
Centennial  Exhibition  at  Philadelphia.  This  vine's  trunk 
was  eighteen  inches  in  diameter,  and  its  foliage  covered  an 
area  equal  to  10,000  square  feet.  It  has  produced  in  one 
year  12,000  pounds  of  grapes.  There  is  another  vine  grow- 
ing here  which  bids  fair  to  equal  the  parent  vine. 

It  is  one  of  the  enjoyments  of  travelers,  staying  for  a 
while  in  Santa  Barbara,  to  drive  -to  Montecito.  The  private 
residences,  surrounded  by  orchards,  well-kept  grounds  and 
flowers  galore,  are  a  great  source  of  interest,  and  as  one 
catches  new  vistas  all  the  time  of  mountains,  valley,  ocean 
and  islands,  the  variety  becomes  more  than  ordinarily  at- 
tractive. 

The  Grove  House  is  pleasantly  situated,  and  surrounded 
by  a  fine  grove  of  oak  trees,  affording  shelter  on  the  hottest 
day,  and  where  a  cool  breeze  from  the  ocean  at  all  times 
may  be  enjoyed. 

Another  pleasant  resting  place  at  Montecito,  is  Miramar. 
This  beautiful  home  is  located  in  a  charming  spot,  and  is 
embowered  in  a  rose-garden  where  semi-tropical  foliage 
abounds.  On  the  one  hand  is  the  ocean  beach,  with  its 
innumerable  attractions,  and  where  bathers  may  be  seen 
sporting  in  the  surf  almost  every  day  in  the  year;  on  the 
other  hand,  the  glorious  Santa  Ynez  mountains,  with  the 
famous  Hot  Sulphur  Springs,  only  2j^  miles  distant. 


CHAPTER    XXIX. 

SANTA    BARBAKA. 

Santa  Barbara  was  founded  in  1782  and  of  the  old  Pres- 
idio, no  trace  remains  save  some  sliglit  mounds  where  the 
walls  crumbled  away  years  ago.  It  stood  near  the  intersec- 
tion of  Santa  Barbara  and  Canyon  Perdido  streets,  and 
around  it  in  the  early  days  clustered  the  adobe  dwellings 
of  the  first  residents,  for  it  was  a  frontier  garrison  of  old 
Spain,  and  the   Spanish  flag  floated  over  the  walls.     This 


The  Potter  Hotel,  Santa  Barbara, 

section  of  the  city  is  still  largely  inhabited  by  Spanish- 
speaking  people  who  comprise  about  one-fifth  or  one-sixth 
of  the  city's  population.  Here  are  still  found  the  quaint 
adobe  homes,  some  of  them  perhaps  a  century  old.  They 
form  a  most  picturesque  portion  of  the  city,  for  they  were 
built  before  the  streets  were  laid  out  and  were  arranged 
without  regard  to  the  points  of  the  compass  in  a  delight- 
fully hap-hazard  way. 


342 

Just  off  tlic  city's  main  street  and  facing  the  City  Hall 
Plaza,  is  the  former  residence  of  Governor  Dc  la  Guerra, 
still  occupied  by  his  family.  It  is  quite  a  large  building, 
being  some  150  feet  in  length  with  wings  of  100  feet  each, 
extending  toward  the  street  and  partially  enclosing  a  court- 
yard or  patio.  Here  in  the  olden  days  was  the  society  cen- 
ter of  town,  and  here  took  place  the  remarkable  series  of 
festivities  so  pleasantly  described  by  Dana  in  his  "Two 
Years  Before  the  'ast."  At  the  corner  of  State  and  Car- 
rillo  streets  is  the  building  occupied  by  Gen.  Fremont  as 
headquarters  after  his  capture  of  Santa  Barbara  in  1846. 
It  is  also  of  adobe,  and  although  once  pretentious,  is  now 
going  to  decay.  Along  the  business  streets  still  remain 
some  of  these  old-time  structures,  the  quaint  tile  roofs  look- 
ing antique  enough  beside  their  new  neighbors  in  pressed 
brick  or  stone. 

But  of  all  the  memorials  of  by-gone  days  none  equal  in 
interest  the  grand  old  Mission  elsewhere  fully  described. 

Santa  Barbara  is  on  the  main  coast  line  of  the  Southern 
Pacific  Railway,  no  miles  west  of  Los  Angeles  and  373 
miles  sovitheast  of  San  Francisco.  By  means  of  the  fine 
vessels  of  the  Pacific  Coast  Steamship  Company,  Santa 
Barbara  has  steamship  connection  north  and  south  with  all 
Pacific  Coast  points,  there  being  a  steamer  every  other  day. 

The  city  has  a  most  excellent  street  car  system,  with  fre- 
quent service,  and  all  kinds  of  carriages  are  available  for 
taking  a  ride  over  the  many  drives  about  the  city  and  sub- 
urbs. A  feature  of  Santa  Barbara  is  its  coaching  and  tal- 
ly-ho parties.  These  are  an  attraction  at  all  times  of  the 
year,  but  especially  during  the  winter  season. 

The  church  facilities  of  Santa  Barbara  are  exceptionally 
good,  all  the  leading  denominations  being  represented.  All 
the  fraternal  societies  are  represented,  some  with  large  and 
influential  memberships. 


343 

One  of  the  foremost  institutions  in  the  city  is  a  most  ex- 
cellent free  public  library  of  some  15,000  volumes,  com- 
fortably and  conveniently  located. 

Santa  Barbara  is  eminently  a  social  city,  and  in  addi- 
tion to  church  and  fraternal  society  fellowship,  has  many 
social  clubs.  The  principal  of  these  latter  organizations  are 
the  Country  Club,  with  most  delightful  headquarters  and 
grounds  about  two  miles  east  of  Santa  Barbara  on  the 
shore  of  the  bay,  and  the  Santa  Barbara  Club,  with  com- 
modious quarters,  centrally  located  in  the  city. 

An  Island  Wonderland. — Across  the  Channel  from  Santa 
Barbara  and  forming  a  part  of  that  county  are  the  moun- 
tainous islands  of  San  Miguel,  Santa  Rosa,  Santa  Cruz  and 
Anacapa,  in  the  order  named,  beginning  at  the  west  end 
of  the  group.  San  Miguel  and  Anacapa,  the  western  and 
eastern  outposts,  are  owned  by  the  United  States,  but  the 
two  larger  islands  are  the  property  of  private  persons. 
Santa  Cruz  and  Santa  Rosa  are  nearly  equal  in  area,  con- 
taining over  50,000  acres  each,  but  Santa  Cruz  is  the  more 
interesting  and  picturesque,  owing  to  the  very  mountainous 
character  of  much  of  its  surface  and  the  wonderful  caverns 
and  chambers  which  the  winds  and  waves  through  many 
ages  have  hollowed  out  along  the  precipitous  shores. 

Anacapa,  the  smallest  of  the  group,  has  been  eaten  into 
three  portions  by  the  action  of  the  waves  and  mighty  col- 
umns and  arches  which  at  the  eastern  extremity  is  all  that 
is  left  of  what  was  formerly  the  solid  earth,  show  how  the 
island  is  gradually  being  devoured  by  the  insatiable  sea. 

These  islands  are  growing  in  popularity  as  most  desira- 
ble places  for  a  summer  outing,  and  parties  are  frequent- 
ly made  up  at  Santa  Barbara  for  a  week's  or  a  month's  so- 
journ amid  this  wonderful  group.  Yachts,  schooners  and 
launches  ply  across  the  channel  and  an  opportunity  may  be 
had  at  any  time  to  visit  these  remarkable  remains  of  vol- 


344 

caiiic  upheaval.  The  waters  thereabouts  teem  with  fish  of 
many  species,  prominent  among  them  being  the  gamey  tuna. 
Whales  and  sharks  also  disport  themselves  in  the  trans- 
parent waters,  and  the  whole  locality  is  a  paradise  for  the 
lovers  of  piscatorial  sports. 

Amid  the  Peaks. — Island  and  bay,  shore  and  foothills,  are 
not  the  whole  story  of  Santa  Barbara's  charms.  There  are 
heights  and  beauties  beyond  and  the  towering  Santa  Ynez, 
that,  like  a  mighty  wall  guards  this  happy  valley  from  Bo- 
reas' chilling  breath,  holds  within  its  canyons,  gorges,  and 
defiles,  a  never-ending  series  of  delights.  Though  but  4,000 
feet  in  height,  yet  so  near  are  the  mountains  to  the  sea, 
that  in  apparent  elevation  they  vie  with  peaks  of  twice  that 
height  located  farther  inland.  From  every  spur  as  one 
mounts  towards  their  rocky  crests,  the  widening  scene  grows 
more  grandly  beautiful  until  the  culmination  is  reached  at 
La  Cumbre's  pinnacle  and  the  mighty  panorama  of  ocean, 
island,  valley,  city  and  foothill,  is  spread  below. 

This  grand  mountain  range  is  now  a  part  of  the  gov- 
ernment system  of  Forest  Reserves,  and  is  henceforth  to  be 
a  great  park  of  the  people.  Trails  lead  up  to  its  heights 
and  traverse  its  summits,  and  at  the  San  Marcos  Pass,  14 
miles  west  of  Santa  Barbara,  a  wagon  road,  famous  for  the 
beautiful  scenery  along  the  way,  crosses  to  the  valley  be- 
yond. 

Highzvay  and  Trail. — Visitors  at  Santa  Barbara  find  in 
the  numerous  drives  and  trails  great  attraction.  These 
avenues  leading  in  every  direction  through  the  valley, 
threading  the  shady  recesses  of  innumerable  canyons,  climb- 
ing spur  and  crag  and  peak,  offer  to  the  traveler  and  sight- 
seer, endless  trips  of  constantly  changing  interest. 

Through  the  Santa  Ynez  Forest  Reserve  the  government 
has  built  a  fine  system  of  trails,  one  of  the  most  important 
being   the    summit   trail    which    follows    the    ridge    of   the 


345 

range  from  the  Ojai  to  the  Refugio,  a  distance  of  between 
70  and  80  miles.  To  connect  with  this  system  the  citizens 
of  Santa  Barbara,  by  private  subscription,  in  1902,  construct- 
ed an  excellent  trail  from  the  Mountain  Drive,  one  of  the 
most  popular  thoroughfares  near  Santa  Barbara.  From 
the  city  to  the  summit  the  distance  is  about  12  miles,  be- 
tween eight  and  nine  of  which  is  in  the  mountains.  The 
path  runs  along  the  walls  of  canyons,  over  lofty  spurs, 
across  picturesque  ridges,  through  groves  of  pine,  till  the 
summit  is  reached. 

Surf  and  Plunge. — One  of  the  chief  summer  delights  is 
the  bathing,  both  surf  and  plunge,  for  Santa  Barbara  has 
now  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  complete  bathing  estab- 
lishments on  the  Pacific  Coast,  the  popularity  of  which, 
though  only  erected  in  1901  at  a  cost  of  $40,000,  has  al- 
ready made  necessary  two  additions  to  its  size. 

Population. — Santa  Barbara  has  a  permanent  population 
of  between  8,D00  and  10,000  persons,  but  during  the  winter 
season  this  number  is  swelled  by  the  presence  of  several 
thousand  visitors. 

Tlie  Potter  Hotel.- — The  magnificent  hostelry  erected  in 
1902  on  the  shore  of  the  bay,  has  supplied  the  need  long 
felt  for  a  commodious  hotel  with  a  service  of  sufficient  ele- 
gance to  meet  the  demands  of  twentieth  century  luxury. 
This  colossal  caravansary  of  comfort,  though  only  opened 
for  guests  in  January,  1903,  is  already  filled  to  its  utmost 
capacity  of  a  thousand  visitors,  by  people  from  all  parts  of. 
the  nation.  It  is  a  marvel  of  comfort,  elegance  and  safe- 
ty. Every  room  is  an  outside  exposure  with  direct  light. 
The  view  from  its  windows,^  north,  east,  south  and  west, 
covering  the  fairest  landscape  in  America,  is  unequalled. 
At  night,  ten  thousand  electric  lights  are  the  enchantment 
that  puts  to  flight  eevry  suggestion  of  darkness. 

The  famous  Arlington,  for  many  years  the  best  hotel  in 


346 

Soulhcrn  California,  ofTcrs  exceedingly  comfortable  quar- 
ters, a  most  excellent  cuisine  and  good  service.  Recent  im- 
provements and  additions  make  it  a  most  satisfactory  home, 
cither  for  the  transient  or  the  steady  guest. 

In  the  business  section  the  New  Morris  and  the  Mascarcl 
meet  the  requirements  of  those  who  desire  good  sub- 
stantial accommodations  at  moderate  figures. 

In  addition  to  the  hotels,  Santa  Barbara  has  a  large  num- 
ber of  private  boarding  houses  of  superior  excellence.  To 
name  them  all  would  exceed  our  space,  but  Islamar,  The 
De  la  Vina,  The  Upham,  Mrs.  Rainey's,  Mrs.  Crane's, 
Baxter  Terrace,  Miss  Martin's  and  Miss  Lampson's  are 
fairly  representative. 

There  are  also  many  rooming  houses,  and  furnished 
rooms  can  be  secured  in  all  parts  of  the  city.  The  cost  of 
living  is  somewhat  higher  than  in  the  east,  owing  largely 
to  the  greater  cost  of  service.  The  necessaries  of  life,  how- 
ever, compare  favorably  in  price  with  the  same  articles  in 
any  part  of  the  country.  Rents  are  a  little  higher  than  a 
year  ago,  but  are  still  moderate.  Furnished  cottages  rent 
for  $25  per  month  upward.  Unfurnished  houses  from  $12 
to  $50  per  month. 

Climate. — Temperature  tables  are  important.  The  follow- 
ing is  the  thermometer's  record  for  the  last  ten  years : 

— Temperature. —  — Temperature. — 

Highest.  Lowest.  Highest.  Lowest. 

Year.  Degrees.  Degrees.  Year.  Degrees.  Degrees. 

1892 97  37  1897 93  32 

1893 88  38  1898 95  34 

r894 94  33  1899 93  29 

1895 91  37  1900 96  40 

1896 98  39  1901 96  35 

Only  once,  as  shown  above,  has  the  mercury  dropped  be- 


347 

low  freezing  during  the  last  ten  years,  and  then  but  three 
degrees  just  before  sunrise.  The  noon  temperature  of  the 
same  day  was  52  degrees.  During  these  ten  years  the  ther- 
mometer registered  above  89  degrees  on  210  days,  or  an  av- 
erage of  but  21  days  in  the  year.  The  number  of  days 
above  90  degrees  was  but  13  in  the  ten  years,  or  a  frac- 
tion over  one  day  per  year.  The  warmest  night  in  ten 
years  was  67  degrees,  and  there  were  but  two  of  those. 
Persons  who  think  our  summers  must  be  hot  because  our 
winters  are  so  mild,  will  read  the  above  figures  with  in- 
terest. The  rare  occasions  of  a  high  temperature  for  a  few 
nours  only,  once  or  twice  a  year,  are  accompaniments  ot  c 
dry  atmosphereic  current  from  the  interior,  and  consequent- 
are  devoid  of  the  oppressiveness  of  a  humid  eastern  at- 
mosphere at  a  like  temperature. 

The  average  velocity  of  the  wind  is  four  miles  per  hour, 
being  3.6  miles  for  the  winter  months,  4.5  for  the  spring 
months,  4.4  for  the  summer  months  and  3.4  for  the  fall 
months. 

This  low  wind  movement  is  responsible  in  a  measure  for 
the  low  humidity  of  the  atmosphere  in  Santa  Barbara,  some- 
thing without  a  parallel  for  a  shore  climate.  This  humidi- 
ty has  an  annual  average  of  71  per  cent.  The  humidity  of 
the  winter  months,  when  a  high  degree  would  chill,  is  only 
67  per  cent.,  and  in  the  foothill  districts  but  53  per  cent. 

Tlie  Bay  of  Santa  Barbara  is  as  renowned  for  its  beauty 
as  that  of  famed  Naples  which  it  so  much  resembles.  From 
Point  Santa  Barbara  where  the  lighthouse  stands  like  a  sen- 
tinel in  white,  eastward  to  Rincon,  the  shore  sweeps  in  a 
great  circle  of  uniform  curve,  fifteen  miles  in  length,  now 
with  wave-lapped  sandy  shore,  then  rising  into  low  bluffs 
that  bound  oak-dotted  mesas.  Small  sail-boats  and  yachts 
lie  at  anchor  the  year  round.  The  bay  opens  to  the  wide 
Channel  of  Santa  Barbara,  so  named  long  before  the  town 


348 


The  Arlington  Hotel,  Santa  Barbara. 


existed.  East  and  west  this  important  body  of  thermal 
waters  is  some  seventy  miles  in  length  with  a  width  of 
from  twenty-five  to  thirty  miles.  It  is  the  speedway  of 
Uncle  Sam's  warships  when  they  are  tested  by  a  trial  run. 
For  yachting  or  boating  the  Santa  Barbara  Channel  offers 
ample  sea-room  yet  so  protected  by  the  mountainous  island 
chain  on  the  south  and  the  elevated  shore  of  the  main- 
land on  the  north  as  to  be  entirely  safe  at  all  times. 


CHAPTER   XXX. 

FROM    LOS  ANGELES    TO   SAN   PEDRO  ON  THE   SOUTHERN   PACIFIC 
RAILROAD. 

The  towns  on  the  San  Pedro  and  Long  Beach  branch 
of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  to  be  here  described  are 
Florence,  Lynwood,  Compton,  Long  Beach,  Wilmington 
and  San  Pedro.     Five  miles  from  Los  Angeles 

Florence  is  reached.  This  growing  little  village  is  situ- 
ated in  the  heart  of  a  rich  agricultural  country,  and  used 
to  be  one  of  the  finest  wine-growing  regions  in  Southern 
California.  It  comprised,  among  the  large  ranches,  Nad- 
eau's  Vineyard  of  3,000  acres,  one  of  the  largest  in  the 
world.  It  has  good  schools,  a  church,  stores,  etc.,  and  an 
excellent  water  supply. 

Lymvood  is  a  small  way  station,  nine  miles  from  Los 
Angeles,  where  there  are  large  agricultural  and  dairy  in- 
terests. 

Compton  (population,  655),  ten  miles  from  Los  Angeles, 
has  fine  school  houses,  including  a  $15,000  brick  high 
school,  well  attended  churches,  good  stores  and  all  the 
needful  shops,  etc.,  which  make  up  an  independent  town. 
A  cheese  factory,  large  dairies  and  a  paper  mill,  all  doing 
a  large  business,  are  in  full  operation.  There  are  about 
6,000  acres  in  beet.  The  principal  soil  is  alluvial.  There 
are  fine  artesian  wells,  and  good  crops  are  generally  as- 
sured. The  apples  grown  here  are  of  fine  flavor  and  large 
size.  Most  of  the  secret  orders  have  a  lodge  with  goodly 
memberships.  The  "Enterprise"  is  the  weekly  paper,  edi- 
ted by  Jas.  H.  Bennett.  The  "Compton"  is  the  hotel, 
rates  $1.25  per  day. 

Wilmington  is  twenty  miles  from  Los  Angeles  and  two 


350 

miles  nortiicast  of  San  Pedro.  This  town  was  founded 
by  the  late  General  Phineas  Banning,  in  1858,  who  was  so 
intimately  connected  with  the  development  of  Los  Angeles 
County.  Tt  has  a  population  of  upwards  of  one  thousand 
people,  with  several  churches,  schools,  stores  of  every  kind, 
and  is  a  lively  and  progressive  little  town. 

San  Pedro  is  twenty-two  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  and  is 
the  Pacific  Coast  terminus  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Rail- 
road. San  Pedro  is  a  city  of  the  sixth  class,  and  a  large 
amount  of  shipping  and  freighting  is  done.  Readers  of 
Dana's  "Two  Years  Before  the  Mast,"  will  remember  his 
interesting  descriptions  of  this  place.  The  first  steamer 
to  enter  the  harbor  was  "The  Gold  Hunter,"  in  1849.  Paci- 
fic Coast  steamers,  plying  up  and  down  the  coast,  land 
passengers  and  freight  at  San  Pedro.  The  town  is  well 
provided  with  stores,  a  weekly  newspaper,  public  school, 
churches  and  large  lumber  yards.  Yachts  are  to  be  found 
in  the  harbor  and  much  boating  is  indulged  in. 

San  Pedro  Harbor. — This  is  the  largest  work  of  the  kind 
now  in  progress  on  the  American  coast.  Congress  has 
voted  $2,000,000  for  the  outer  break-water,  and  the  work 
is  already  so  far  advanced  that  the  bay  feels  the  sheltering 
effect.  The  bay  of  San  Pedro  is  almost  a  natural  harbor, 
and  with  the  break-water  a  large  area  is  enclosed  where 
ships  of  any  tonnage  ma}'  ride  at  anchor. 

In  addition  to  this,  Congress  has  recently  voted  $375,000 
for  the  initial  expenses  of  the  Inner  Harbor,  where  docks 
are  to  be  excavated  and  wharves  erected. 

This  great  national  undertaking  has  directed  the  atten- 
tion of  the  continent  to  this  locality.  Here  is  to  be  the 
great  sea  port  of  the  southwest.  It  is  nearer  to  the  pro- 
posed Isthmian  canal ;  it  is  the  terminus  of  the  shortest 
line  across  the  continent;  it  is  on  the  direct  route  to  our 
eastern   possessions,   to   the   Australias,   and   to   the   great 


351 

nations  of  the  Orient.  In  short,  San  Pedro  is  the  coming 
seaport  of  the  Pacific,  and  the  Pacific  is  the  Mediterra- 
nean of  the  future.  Our  National  Government  has  shown 
its  confidence  in  these  anticipations  by  the  enormous  grants 
of  public  monej'  which  it  has  made  on  the  strength  of 
them. 

From  the  Los  Angeles  Times  of  November  i,  1903,  I 
extract  the  following: 

"Work  on  the  great  sea  wall  was  commenced  April  26, 

1899.  It  lagged  in  its  early  stages  on  account  of  the  in- 
ability of  the  original  contractors,  Messrs.  Heldmaier  & 
Neu,  of  Chicago,  to  dump  the  rock  as  fast  as  the  govern- 
ment required  them  to  do.  The  contract  was  next  awarded 
to  the  California  Construction  Company  of  San  Francisco, 
on  more  favorable  terms.     It  commenced  work  August  24, 

1900,  and  has  steadily  carried  it  forward  to  the  satisfaction 
of  the  government  engineers.  At  the  present  rate  of  pro- 
gress it  will  take  about  three  years  more  to  finish  the  great 
break-water,  which  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  United 
States. 

Up  to  October  i,  there  had  been  delivered  1,235,456  tons 
of  rock  for  the  substructure,  and  27,000  tons  for  the  su- 
perstructure, or  top  dressing  of  the  wall.  The  deliveries 
for  the  present  month  will  increase  the  figures  to  about  a 
round  1.300,000,  and  by  December  i,  the  contractors  will 
have  earned  just  about  one-half  of  the  contract  price, 
$1,187,773,  the  whole  amounting  to  $2,375,546.  Their  earn- 
ings up  to  October  i  amounted  to  $1,126,253,  but  until  the 
contract  is  half  completed,  10  per  cent,  of  the  amount 
earned  is  held  back  by  the  government  as  protection  against 
loss  in  case  of  abandonment  of  the  contract  before  com- 
pletion of  the  job.  The  substructure  is  completed  for  a 
distance  of  about  6,200  linear  feet,  with  only  about  2,300 
feet  more  to  do. 


352 

The  sea  wall  begins  i.QCX)  feet  from  shore,  and  will  Ijc 
8,500  feet  long  when  completed.  The  trestle  from  which 
the  rock  is  dumped  is  completed  for  6,620  feet  of  this  dis- 
tance. Piles  for  the  remaining  1,880  feet  will  not  driven 
until  the  break-water  is  practically  finished  to  the  spot 
where  the  trestle  now  ends. 

The  superstructure  of  the  San  Pedro  breakwater  has  been 
completed,  with  the  exception  of  the  top  layer,  for  a  dis- 
tance of  730  feet  on  the  ocean  side  and  918  feet  on  the 
harbor  side  of  the  wall.  The  contract  price  for  the  sub- 
structure is  84.4  cents  per  ton,  and  $3.10  per  ton  for  the 
superstructure. 

The  mean  low  water  depth  is  24  feet  at  the  shore  end 
of  the  breakwater,  and  it  increases  in  depth  gradually  to 
48  feet  at  about  one-third  of  the  distance  from  the  shore 
end,  and  averages  50  feet  depth  the  remainder  of  the  dis- 
tance to  the  sea  wall  end  of  the  wall.  At  50  feet  depth 
the  base  of  the  wall  is  igi  feet  in  breadth. 

The  substructure,  which  consists  chiefly  of  sandstone 
from  the  Chatsworth  and  Catalina  Island  quarries,  dumped 
at  random,  is  38  feet  wide  at  the  top.  On  the  harbor  side 
it  has  the  natural  slope  of  i  vertical  to  i  1-3  horizontal. 
On  the  ocean  side  the  slope  is  only  i  to  3,  down  to  the 
plane  of  rest,  12  feet  below  mean  low  water;  from  there  on 
it  is  the  natural  slope  of  i  to  i  1-3. 

The  superstructure,  only  a  small  section  of  which  has 
been  laid  as  yet,  is  to  consist  of  granite  blocks,  roughly 
rectangular  in  shape,  laid  in  the  form  of  steps — four  cours- 
es of  them  on  the  ocean  side  and  seven  courses  on  the 
harbor  side.  The  blocks  on  the  ocean  side  must  weigh  not 
less  than  16,000  pounds  each ;  those  on  the  harbor  side,  6,000 
pounds  each.  The  crest  of  the  superstructure  is  to  be  20 
feet  in  width  and  14  feet  above  the  top  of  the  substructure. 
The  granite  used  for  the  top  dressing  comes  from  the  De- 


353 

clez  and  Casa  Blanca  quarries,  and  is  very  expensive  in 
handling.  It  is  much  harder  to  spHt  in  square-faced  chunks 
than  the  eastern  granite,  which  has  regular  lines  of  cleav- 
age, while  the  Southern  California  granite  is  of  the  "curly" 
variety,  and  will  not  split  evenly. 

One  thing  that  interests  visitors  to  the  breakwater  is  the 
display  of  marine  life  on  the  protected  side  of  the  wall. 
The  newly  dumped  stones  are  already  covered  with  sea 
urchins,  sea  anemones,  sea  cucumbers,  star  fish  and  other 
tenacious  creatures,  while  an  occasional  crawfish  and  my- 
riads of  the  smaller  members  of  the  fifiny  tribe  are  nearly 
always  in  evidence.  On  the  ocean  side  of  the  wall  a  mile  or 
-  two  of  kelp  is  lashed  about  by  the  waves  that  spend  their 
fury  in  buffeting  the  granite  buttresses. 

While  work  is  progressing  on  the  breakwater  to  make 
the  outer  harbor  a  safe  haven  of  refuge  and  afford  dock- 
age for  ships  of  the  deepest  draught,  there  are  also  things 
doing  in  the  inner  harbor  at  San  Pedro.  The  work  of 
deepening  the  interior  basin  by  dredging  has  "been  in  pro- 
gress for  a  long  time  under  contract,  but  the  government 
is  now  having  its  own  dredge  built,  and  will  soon  be  ready 
to  put  its  own  crew  to  work  in  scooping  out  the  bottom  of 
the  bay  according  to  the  plans  recommended  by  the  late 
Captain  Meyler  and  approved  by  the  Chief  of  Engineers, 
United  States  Army,  and  for  the  accomplishment  of  which 
Congress  has  made  an  appropriation. 

Raymond  A.  Perry  of  San  Francisco,  who  has  the  con- 
tract for  deepening  the  channel  from  the  entrance  to  the  in- 
ner harbor  to  and  in  front  of  the  principal  wharves  to  a 
depth  of  20  feet  at  mean  low  tide,  has  but  recently  finished 
removing  250,000  cubic  yards  of  dirt  with  the  20-inch  suc- 
tion dredge  Olympian,  which  was  burned  in  the  upper 
harbor.  The  sand  and  mud  removed  by  thi  Olympian 
was    deposited    behind    bulkheads    built    along    the    harbor 


554 

lines,  and  considcra1)le  new  land  was  thus  created  along  the 
San  Pedro  water  front. 

A  mile  out  from  San  Pedro,  on  the  peninsula,  is 

Point  firmin  Lighthouse,  where  a  pleasant  afternoon 
may  be  spent.  The  lighthouse  is  in  charge  of  most  court- 
eous attendants  who  find  pleasure  in  describing  the  man- 
ipulation of  the  lights  to  visitors. 

The  S.  P.  R.  R.  divides  into  two  parts  at  Thenard  Junc- 
tion, four  miles  from  San  Pedro,  one  portion  reaching 
that  port  and  the  other  making  a  curve  to  the  left,  and  in 
four  miles  reaching 

Long  Beach,  at  a  distance  of  22  miles  from  Los  Angeles. 
This  pretty  little  town  is  fully  described  in  the  chapter  on 
the  Salt  Lake  Railway. 


^^^>'W^' 


CHAPTER   XXXI. 

FROM   LOS  ANGELES  TO   WHITTIER^  SANTA  ANA  AND  TUSTIN  ON 
THE   SOUTHERN    PACIFIC. 

There  is  little  of  anything  new  to  describe  on  the  line 
of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  to  Whittier,  until 

Downey  is  reached,  eleven  miles  from  Los  Angeles.  This 
town  was  first  laid  out  in  1873,  when  the  Southern  Pacific 
was  built  to  Santa  Ana.  It  has  a  small  but  growing  popu- 
lation,-largely  agricultural.  The  soil  is  mostly  of  a  moist 
character,  so  that  no  irrigation  is  needed.  The  products 
are  chiefly  walnuts,  apricots,  vegetables,  with  quantities  of 
butter  and  eggs. 

The  whole  region  is  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  growth  of 
walnuts,  and  the  traveler,  driving  through  the  country,  will 
be  astonished  at  the  large  number  of  walnut  groves  in  ex- 
cellent condition  to  be  found. 

The  town  has  schools,  churches  and  stores,  and  two 
hotels. 

Shidebakcr,  fifteen  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is  a  settle- 
ment named  after  the  great  carriage  builders  of  Indiana, 
who  have  bought  considerable  property  in  the  neighborhood. 

Fulton  IVells  and  Santa  Fe  Springs  are  practically  the 
same.  The  name  was  given  to  the  springs  because  the 
wells  were  bored  by  Dr.  Fulton,  who  organized  and  con 
ducted  the  sanitarium  built  for  the  benefit  of  invalids.  Com- 
fortable cottages,  a  large  hotel  and  an  excellent  bath  house 
have  been  erected. 

Los  Nietos,  seventeen  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is  in  the 
midst  of  a  farming  and  dairy  region,  and  large  quantities 
of  walnuts  are  shipped. 

Whittier,  elevation,  239  feet;  population,  5,000.  To  Los 
Angeles,    twenty    miles,    is    a    beautifully    located    town, 


356 

stalled  in  1889  by  a  body  of  Quakers  from  Indiana,  Illin- 
ois and  Iowa,  wlio  named  their  town  after  the  beloved 
Quaker  poet,  and  said  "there  we  will  make  our  home."  It 
is  on  the  southwestern  slope  and  end  of  the  Puente  Hills. 

In  the  fifteen  years  that  have  passed,  five  thousand  people 
traveling  through  Southern  California  have  passed  that 
same  way,  and  repeated  those  same  words.  What  a  trans- 
formation in  that  tract  lying  by  the  Puente  foothills !  Where 
fields  of  barley  or  patches  of  mustard  grew,  or  great  mesas 
stretched  barren  and  lifeless  save  where  some  lonely  shep- 
herd followed  his  wandering  flock,  now,  with  her  head 
pillowed  in  the  lap  of  the  foothills,  her  skirts  in  great  plaids 
of  green  spread  over  the  valley,  lies  the  fair  city  of  Whit- 
tier. 

Whittier  has  almost  doubled  her  population  in  two  years, 
from  one  thousand  five  hundred  and  sixty  in  1900,  to  three 
thousand  in  1902.  In  the  same  time  bank  deposits  in  the 
cily  have  increased  from  $90,000.00  to  $275,000.00.  It  is  a 
fact  that  in  the  last  six  months  more  than  $90,000.00  have 
been  invested  in  buildings;  a  $12,000.00  church,  two  $12,- 
000.00  school  buildings,  a  $15,000.00  Odd  Fellows'  Hall, 
besides  scores  of  beautiful  residences.  A  fire  department 
has  been  organized,  a  building  erected  and  an  ample  equip- 
ment secured.  The  city  has  been  lighted  with  electricity 
and  25,000  feet  of  gas  main  have  been  laid.  A  complete 
system  of  interurban  electric  railway  is  in  operation,  the 
Pacific  Electric,  giving  half  hourly  service  to  Los  Angeles. 
A  new  $25,000.00  high  school  building  within  the  year,  a 
city  hall,  and  a  dozen  miles  of  cement  sidewalks  are  not  far 
in  the  future.  There  is  no  city  of  its  size  in  the  world 
which  has  a  greater  wealth-producing  territory  tributary 
to  it.  The  10,000  acres  of  orchards  which  lie  in  a  great 
crescent  at  its  feet,  would  alone  assure  permanent  prosperi- 
ty. 


357 

It  is  very  generally  granted  that  the  San  Gabriel  Valley 
district,  which  adjoins  the  City  of  Whittier,  is  the  finest 
Englrsh  walnut  region  in  California.  The  products  this 
year  will  reach  50,000  sacks,  a  valuation  of  $450,000.00.  The 
walnut-growers  are  strongly  associated  for  mutual  protec- 
tion, and  so  able  is  the  management  that  this  district  prac- 
tically controls  the  walnut  prices  of  America. 

It  IS  another  significant  fact  that  the  first  car  of  Cali- 
fornia oranges  shipped  this  year  was  packed  in  Whittier. 
Last  year  200  carloads  of  oranges  and  150  of  lemons  were 
shipped,  and  the  output  this  year  will  make  an  increase  of 
50  to  100  cars.  Three  leading  companies  alone  disbursed 
$135,000.00  to  growers  of  citrus  fruits  in  this  district  the 
past  season.  Ten  acres  of  ten-year-old  citrus  or  walnut 
trees  afford  an  ample  competency,  yielding  an  average  an- 
nual income  of  $2,000,00  to  $3,000.00.. 

Whittier  orchards  have  never  known  the  touch  of  frost. 
Amid  the  walnut  and  citrus  groves  flourish  peaches  and 
apricots  and  pears  and  apples  and  plums.  Underneath  the 
spreading  branches  are  gardens  which  make  the  house- 
keeper's task  easy — tomatoes,  peas,  beans  and  strawberries, 
even  in  January;  lettuce  and  radishes  fresh  every  day  in 
the  year — and  flowers!  roses,  carnations,  lilies,  English 
violets  and  golden  poppies. 

Oil  was  discovered  six  years  ago.  Though  the  field  is 
scarcely  entered  yet,  the  monthly  output  has  reached  60,- 
000  barrels.  As  the  shallow  wells  of  the  first  drilling  are 
being  deepened  to  2,200  feet,  still  greater  reservoirs  of  still 
better  oil  are  being  tapped,  and  the  store  is  shown  to  be 
practically  exhaustless. 

There  are  nine  churches,  and  no  saloons  in  Whittier. 
The  interest  in  schools  and  the  difficulty  of  furnishing  fa- 
cilities to  keep  pace  with  that  interest  is  shown  in  the  two 
commodious  grammar  school  buildings  just  completed;   in 


358 

the  bonds  voted  for  a  magnificent  new  home  for  the  high 
school  which  has  grown  so  rapidly  since  its  inception ;  in 
the  royal  way  Whitticr  College  has  been  supported  and  biiil' 
up  until  it  affords  opportunities  for  higher  education  un- 
excelk'd  by  any  like  institution. 

Whittier  has  good  hotels  open  the  year  through.  These 
are  the  Grcenleaf,  capacity  for  50  persons.  Rates,  $2.00  per 
day,  $7.00  per  week.  C.  W.  Harvey,  manager.  Hotel 
Whittier,  capacity  for  24  persons.  Rates,  $1.00  per  day, 
$6.00  per  week.  W.  L.  Stafford,  manager.  The  Thompson, 
capacity  for  ID  persons;  $1.00  per  day,  $5.00  per  week.  \V. 
O.  Thompson,  manager. 

The  Whittier  State  School,  one  of  the  two  reform  schools 
in  California,  is  situated  near  the  town  of  Whittier,  twelve 
miles  southeast  of  Los  Angeles. 

One  hundred  and  sixty  acres  of  highly  cultivated  land 
belong  to  the  school.  The  grounds  are  laid  out  in  lawns, 
groves,  playgrounds,  vegetable  and  flower  gardens,  and  or- 
chards of  various  kind,  citrus  and  deciduous. 

The  main  buildings  are  twelve  in  number.  The  Admin- 
istration building  contains  the  Superintendent's  apartments 
and  offices,  Trustee's  rooms,  assembly  hall,  library  rooms, 
containing  four  thousand  volumes,  school  rooms,  officers' 
aportmcnts,  boys'  dormitories,  play  rooms,  lavatories,  hos- 
pital rooms,  etc.  The  Administration  building  will  accom- 
modate three  hundred  boys.  The  Refectory  building  con- 
tains the  Commissary  department,  officers'  and  boys'  din- 
ing rooms,  kitchen,  bakery,  butcher  shop  and  milk  room. 
The  Trades  building  contains  the  boiler  room,  electric  light 
plant  of  three  dynamos,  laundry,  carpenter,  tailor  and  shoe 
shops,  band  room  and  printing  office  with  its  power  press- 
es. The  photograph  gallery,  paint  and  blacksmith  shops 
occup3^  separate  buildings.  The  barns,  horse,  cattle  and  pig 
sheds  and  corrals  and  hay  sheds  are  isolated  and  grouped 


359 

by  themselves.  There  are  twenty  head  of  horses,  forty 
cows,  and  two  hundred  pigs.  Butchering,  dairying,  stock 
raising,  pruning  trees  and  the  propagation  of  plants  are  also 
taught.  The  small  boys  are  kept  by  themselves  on  the  cot- 
tage plan,  having  their  own  teacher,  captain  and  matron, 
playroom,  lavatory,  school  room,  etc. 

The  Girls'  Department  consists  of  two  brick  buildings  on 
the  cottage  plan  and  a  trades  building.  Each  building 
contains  dormitory,  lavatories,  dining  room,  kitchen,  school 
room,  reception  room,  officers'  quarters,  etc.  The  Trades 
building  contains  sewing,  dressmaking  and  laundry  de- 
partments.. 

All  the  buildings  are  heated  by  steam  and  lighted  by  elec- 
tricity. All  wearing  apparel  is  made  by  the  pupils  except 
hats  and  hosiery.  The  pupils  attend  school  half  a  day  and 
work  half  a  day  the  year  round.  There  is  a  fine  band  of 
twenty  pieces  with  modern  instruments  and  a  boys'  or- 
chestra the  services  of  which  are  in  great  demand  outside 
the  school. 

The  "Whittier  Boys'  and  Girls'  Magazine"  is  published 
and  printed  by  the  pupils  of  the  school  and  now  ranks 
among  the  first  in  the  country.  Military  training  and  dis- 
cipline is  made  a  special  feature.  Visitors  are  admitted  any 
day  between  ten  and  four  o'clock,  except  Saturday  and 
Sunday. 

The  trustees  are :  Dr.  Walter  Lindley  of  Los  Angeles, 
president,  Hon.  James  Clarke  of  Pasadena,  and  Hon.  Chas. 
Prager  of  Los  Angeles.  The  Superintendent,  Sherman 
Smith,  Assistant  Superintendent,  Dr.  W.  V.  Coffin.  Ad- 
dress, Whittier,  California. 

Now  continuing  our  journey: 

Nomalk,  fifteen  miles  from.  Los  Angeles,  is  the  first 
town  reached.  This  is  a  small  village  with  its  usual  quota 
of   churches    and    schoolhouses,   where   numerous   artesian 


wells  supply  water  for  irrigating  alfalfa  and  corn  quite  ex- 
tensively. Thoroughbred  stock  is  largely  raised,  and  but- 
ter, milk,  eggs  and  cheese  largely  exported.  It  has  good 
stores,  livery  stable  and  lumber  yard. 

Bticna  Park,  twenty-one  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is  an- 
other of  the  newer  towns,  made  necessary  by  the  settling  up 
of  the  surrounding  agricultural  region.  The  soil  here  is 
damp  and  well  adapted  to  all  agricultural  purposes.  What- 
ever the  farmer  may  desire  to  grow  can  be  produced  here. 

Anaheim  (elevation  133  feet),  twenty-five  miles  from  Los 
Angeles,  is  the  mother  colony  of  this  county.  It  is  the 
oldest  settlement  in  Orange  County,  and  is  now  second  in 
population  and  commercial  importance.  It  was  laid  out 
by  wealthy  Germans  from  San  Francisco  in  1857,  for  the 
purpose  of  testing  its  wine-growing  power,  and  for  thirty- 
five  years  or  more  it  was  one  of  the  largest  wine-produc- 
ing sections  in  the  State.  A  large  tract  of  land  was 
purchased,  planted  out,  and  divided  into  lots  of  twenty 
acres  each.  These  were  eventually  distributed,  the  stock- 
holders drawing  lots  in  order  to  decide  the  location,  each 
person  receiving  a  town  lot  in  addition  to  his  own  lot,  leav- 
ing fourteen  for  public  purposes. 

The  residents  of  Anaheim  have  been,  and  are,  an  indus- 
trious, hard-working  class  of  people.  They  have  erected 
beautiful  and  comfortable  homes,  embowered  them  in  flow- 
ers, planted  avenues  of  pepper  trees,  acacias,  sycamores  and 
eucalyptus,  but  thej'^  have  not  sought  or  desired  a  great 
"boom,"  which  would  disturb  their  quiet  and  peaceful  vil- 
lage life.  But  the  advent  of  two  railroads  has  made  a 
great  change,  and  now,  by  the  infusion  of  new  blood,  the 
city  is  more  modernly  progressive,  and  its  population  is 
growing  rapidly. 

At  Mirailores,  twenty-seven  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  the 
road  again  branches,  one  portion  going  on  to  Santa  Ana, 


^6: 


the  other  to  Tustin.  Taking  the  direction  of  Santa  Ana, 
the  first  town  reached  is 

Orange,  thirty  miles  from  Los  Angeles.  It  is  an  incorpo- 
rated town  full  of  beautiful  homes,  surrounded  by  orange 
and  lemon  groves,  which  yield  their  fortunate  owners  a 
bountiful  income.  The  orange  grows  here  to  perfection. 
Peanuts  also  are  a  large  and  profitable  crop,  and  potatoes, 
being  grown  on  the  same  ground  in  the  same  year,  make 
the  land  yield  heavy  returns.  jNIost  of  the  land  is  divided 
into  farms  of  from  five  to  forty  acres,  and,  as  on  each  one 
of  these  farms  is  a  beautiful  or  homelike  residence,  the 
country  round  about  looks  more  like  a  vast  park  than  a 
farming  region.  The  town  itself  is  well  laid  out,  has  first- 
class  stores,  churches,  schools  and  banks.  Its  hotels  are 
good,  and  it  has  a  growing  public  library,  as  well  as  two 
well-edited  newspapers.  The  water  systems  are  good.  A 
street-car  line  connects  Orange  with  Santa  Ana,  Tustin  and 
El  Modena.    Two  miles  from  Orange  is 

Santa    Ana,    the    county    seat    of    Orange    County,    and 


t, 


'  y  r's 


'•^^^Sk^ 


362 

tliirly-four  miles  from  Los  Angeles.  It  is  an  incorporated 
city  and  lias  a  population  of  6,000.  The  station  lays  siege 
lo  the  tourist'  artistic  sense  by  a  rich  parterre  of  flowers 
kept  refreshed  and  blooming  tlie  year  through.  This  spot 
is  characteristic  of  the  entire  town  which  abounds  in  wide 
thoroughfares  bordered  by  lofty  and  graceful  trees  of  va- 
rious climes. 

•Santa  Ana  is  a  great  trading  town,  being  the  centre  of 
numberless  orange  orchards  and  vineyards.  There  arc 
three  street  railway  lines,  several  hotels,  two  banks  and  an 
opera  house. 

The  city  is  lighted  by  electricity,  and  there  are  several 
churches,  all  well  supported  and  attended.  There  are  pack- 
ing-houses, a  planing-mill,  small  gasworks  and  other  in- 
stitutions that  demonstrate  the  progressive  spirit  of  the 
place. 

The  Southern  Pacific  Railway  has  a  branch  line  running 
to  Newport  Beach. 

The  town  of  Santa  Ana  was  laid  out  in  1869,  by  Mr. 
W.  H.  Spurgeon,  and  it  has  continued  to  grow  ever  since. 
Its  advantages  are  well  set  forth  by  three  weekly  and  one 
daily  newspaper.  It  has  a  good  sized  public  librarj',  and  is, 
in  all  respects,  a  progressing  and  growing  city. 

Returning  now  to  Miraflores,  we  take  the  Tustin  branch 
of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway,  passing  through  a  rich 
agricultural  and  fruit-growing  countr\',  to  McPherson,  Vil- 
la Park,  Wanda  and  El  Modena. 

Wanda  is  a  small  station,  thirty-five  miles  from  Los  An- 
geles. I  do  not  know  whether  the  great  novelist,  Ouida, 
had  anything  to  do  with  naming  this  place,'  one  of  her 
novels  bearing  the  same  name,  but  I  know  that  no  pen  other 
than  hers  could  do  full  justice  to  the  charm  and  beauty  of 
the  ranches  not  far  way. 

Villa  Park  is  a  growing  and  progressive  little  settlement, 


3^3 

there  being  excellent  schools  and  the  nucleus  of  an  ideal 
Southern  California  colony. 

While  situated  in  the  valley  there  cannot  be  a  more 
beautiful  location  for  an  ideal  ranch  home. 

Three  miles  further,  and  thirty-eight  from  Los  Angeles, 

Tusihi  is  reached.  This  is  one  of  the  finest  orange  re- 
gions in  all  the  sunny 'southland.  The  groves  are  numerous 
and  excellent.  Stretching  for  miles  in  every  direction  the 
land  rolls  gently,  and  is  supplied  with  abundance  of  water 
from  irrigating  ditches.  The  town  is  in  the  centre  of  a 
community,  whose  inhabitants  are  known  for  their  culture 
and  industry.  Here  are  broad,  shaded  avenues,  leading  to 
beautiful  residences,  surrounded  by  all  that  wealth,  refine- 
ment and  culture  could  provide  and  desire. 

Tustin  has  good  schools,  churches,  stores  and  a  well- 
conducted  hotel.  Few  places  can  be  better  for  those  who 
wish  to  enjoy  country  life  with  city  advantages,  and  the 
opportunity  of  studying  the  various  methods  of  irrigation 
used  in  Orange  County. 


CHAPTER    XXXII. 

FROM    THE    NEEDLES    TO    SAN    BERN ARDINO    ON    THE    SANTA     IF 
RAILWAY. 

NEEDLES : 

Population,    2,500.      To  Los   Angeles,    .310   miles. 
To  Chicago,   1,954  miles. 

Just  before  reaching  this  place  on  the  transcontinental 
trip  on  the  Santa  Fc  System — the  largest  railway  .system 
in  the  world,  and  which  owns  its  tracks  from  Chica- 
go, via  Kansas  City,  to  the  Pacific  Ocean — the  traveler 
crosses  the  elegant,  new  cantilever  bridge  over  the  slow 
Colorado  River,  which  at  this  point  gives  no  suggestion  of 
the  "cribb'd,  cabin'd,  confin'd"  turbulence  which  dashes 
with  roar  and  splash  and  turmoil  through  the  crystalline 
mica  schists  of  the  great  canyon  in  Arizona.  Here  it 
sleeps  after  its  exhaustive  race  of  five  hundred  miles, 
chased  by  demons  and  fiends,  and  tossed  from  underneath, 
to  and  fro,  by  giants  and  strong. 

It  is  as  dirty  and  slow  as  the  Mohave  Indians  who  live 
in  their  wicker  kaits  or  houses  along  the  river,  and  who 
congregate  at  the  Needles  to  greet  us  and  wheedle  from 
us  what  small  coins  we  can  spare.  The  remnant  of  a  once 
powerful  and  warlike  tribe,  we  see  only  the  degraded  and 
filthy  of  them.  Their  naked  pappooses  sitting  astride  their 
hips,  or  engaged  in  drawing  nourishment  from  the  mater- 
nal fount,  are  often  picturesque  enough,  and,  to  see  a  dozen 
more  youngsters  of  both  sexes  scampering  through  the 
bushes,  clothed  with  not  even  a  smile,  gives  us  a  singular 
feeling  of  immediate  contact  with  "the  heathen"  we  al- 
ways imagine  to  live  somewhere  else  than  in  our  own  coun- 
try. 

If  odors    strong  and   overpowering   and    insect    life   ob- 


365 

noxious  do  not  appeal  to  you,  go  into  some  of  their  wicki- 
ups. In  one,  not  far  from  the  depot,  you  will  find  four 
generations.  The  old  grand  dame  appears  as  if  she  could 
count  over  a  hundred  years,  and  her  semi-nude  form  is 
certainly  of  tanned  leather  or  elephant  skin.  Her  once 
rounded  breasts  are  flat,  flabby  and  filthy  and  give  her  an 
absolutely  hideous  appearance,  while  her  eyes  squint  hor- 
ribly through  suppurated  lids. 

Their  wickiups  are  made  of  wicker  work,  willows,  co- 
tonwood  poles  and  rawhide.  These  Indians  were  bad 
enough  ere  the  worse  fate  befell  them  of  meeting  with 
white  men  who  degraded  them.  And  yet  those  who  have 
studied  them  and  lived  in  contact  with  them  know  that 
there  are  as  true  and  noble  hearts,  even  yet,  to  be  found 
amongst  them  as  amongst  any  people. 

Contact  with  the  whites  has  demoralized  their  men  and 
debased  their  women,  and  now  they  are  drunkards,  sen- 
sualists of  the  lowest  type,  and  beggars  who  would  dis- 
count Irish  and  Italian  professionals,  both  in  cunning  and 
persistence. 

Their  pappooses  are  made  into  sources  of  revenue. 
Strapped  to  and  wrapped  up  in  their  ''pabeeches,"  swung 
onto  the  mother's  back,  their  faces  are  covered  up,  and 
only  on  the  gift  of  a  "neekle"  or  a  dime  can  you  get  a 
glimpse  of  the  fat,  podgy,  clay-smeared  youngster  beneath. 

Some  of  the  squaws  have  bows  and  arrows,  crude  (and 
rude)  pottery,  necklaces-  of  agate,  obsidian  and  petrified 
wood,  and  various  nick-nacks  for  sale,  but  they  have 
learned  of  some  white  men  to  ask  all  they  can  get  for  arti- 
cles, their  value  being  determined  solely  by  the  length  of 
purse  of  the  buyer. 

Only  occasionally  will  you  see  the  best  of  the  men. 
Some  of  them  are  gigantic  in  size,  robust  and  muscular, 
and  are  noted  for  their  speed  and  staying  qualities  as  run- 


366 


ncrs.  I  have  known  two  or  three  of  them  to  make  from 
sixty  to  eighty  miles  in  one  day  of  twenty-four  hours,  on 
foot,  and  over  the  hot  desert. 


.-feci:- 


Giant  Cactus  and  Yucca  on  the 
Mohave  Desert. 


The  Needles  themselves  ought  not  to  be  overlooked. 
Seen  by  the  clear  moonlight,  which  here  sheds  a  soft, 
more  mellow  radiance  than  ever  seen  in  the  East,  the  se- 
ductive twinkling  stars  in  the  far  away  distance,  hanging 
as  glory  spots  over  them,  the  perfectly  clear  sky  forming 
a  delicious  background  for  them,  they  stand  out  with  a 
clear  boldness  as  if  a  whole  race  of  cathedral  spires — Milan 
and  Cologne  cathedrals,  Santa  Sophia's  minarets,  Kremlin's 
towers,   St.   Peter's  domes,  with  here  and  there  an   Egj-p- 


367 


The  Colorado  River  and  the  "  Needles." 


tian  obelisk,  a  Jain  temple,  or  a  Japanese  kiosk — were  on 
exhibition  awaiting  the  choice  of  the  gods. 

The  strength  of  the  town  lies  in  her  great  railroad  fa- 
cilities, surrounding  agricultural  and  mining  country,  all 
of  which  industries  are  rapidly,  steadily  and  healthily 
growing.  In  the  past  four  years  her  population  has 
doubled,  and  now  is  safely  estimated  to  have  2,500  people. 
A  division  point  for  the  Santa  Fe  railroad,  with  shops 
employing  over  300  men,  the  only  point  for  a  distance  of 
250  miles,  either  east  or  west,  where  a  suitable  and  suffi- 
cient water  supply  can  be  obtained  to  warrant  the  sustain- 
ing of  such  shops;  situated  in  close  proximity  to  the 
banks  of  the  Colorado  river,  the  waters  of  which  are 
being  used  by  the  river  steamers  in  transporting  freight 
and  passengers ;  thus  it  can  be  determined  that  Needles 
becomes  the  natural  distributing  point  for  ai  vast  area  of 
country,  the  mineral  wealth  of  which  is  becoming  known 
in  every  mining  center  in  the  United  States. 


As  a  mining  center,  Needles  is  young  in  years  and  small 
in  stature,  yet  many  thousands  or  dollars'  worth  of  mininp 
supplies  have  been  distributed  from  her  stores  dtiring  the 
past  four  or  five  years. 

The  Murphy  Ice,  Light  and  Water  company  has  $40,000 
invested  in  its  ice  plant,  which  has  a  capacity  of  thirty  tons 
per  day.  Contract  has  already  been  made  whereby  th' 
plant  will  be  increased  to  seventy-five-ton  capacity.  Th' 
same  company  also  has  $25,000  invested  in  a  pumping 
plant  which  supplies  the  city  with  nearly  a  million  gal- 
lons of  water  every  twenty-four  hours. 

The  schools  of  Needles  are  among  the  best  of  the  state 
and  their  enrollment  has  increased  exceptionally  fast. 
There  are  also  churches,  reading  rooms  and  libraries,  and 
the  local  paper,  the  Needles  "Eye." 

The  Santa  Fe  Division  officers  are :  John  Denair,  super- 
intendent;  W.  H.  Mills,  trainmaster;  J.  P.  Jones,  chief 
dispatcher;  J.  W.  Wood,  general  foreman,  bridge  and 
building  and  water  service ;  Hugo  SchaflFer,  master  me- 
chanic ;   J.  F.  Creel,  local  agent. 

Masonic  -Lodge — F.  AL  Kelly,  W.  M. ;  John  Armantage. 
secretary.  Knights  of  Pythias — John  Armantage,  C.  C. ; 
H.  J.  Kane,  K.  of  R.  and  S.  Conductors — Guy  Carpenter, 
master ;  Walter  Copsey,  secretary.  Engineers — S.  W. 
Thompson,  C.  E. ;  D.  E.  LaLonde,  F.  A.  E.  Firemen — 
Roy  Lampson,  master;  E.  B.  Gilbert,  secretarj'.  Train- 
men— M.  J.  Moriartj%  master;  W.  H.  Strong,  secretary. 
School  Directors — B.  W.  Tasker,  James  Carroll  and  S.  J. 
Lewis.  M.  E.  Church — Rev.  David  Roberts,  pastor. 
Catholic  Church — Rev.  Father  Brady,  pastor.  Supervisor — 
J.  H.  West.  Justice  of  the  Peace— L.  V.  Root.  The  Nee- 
dles Eye — L.  V.  Root,  editor  and  publisher. 

From  the  Needles  onwards,  perhaps  it  is  not  to  be  won- 
dered at  that  to  most  travelers  it  is  not  interesting.     Yet 


369 

a  friend  of  mine  once  remarked,  as  we  entered  the  lava 
bed  region,  "The  only  way  to  contemplate  this  desolate 
and  barren  region  is  with  an  eye  to  the  wonderful  dis- 
pensation of  things."  You  ask  yourself  why  it  is  thus? 
Thousands  of  square  miles  of  arid  land.  My  friend  after- 
wards wrote  in  his  diary :  "I  have  said  there  is  no  beauty 
in  this  country.  The  casual  observer  would  turn  from 
it  in  disgust,  as  I  am  now  tempted  to  do,  though,  if  cir- 
cumstances permitted,  I  could  write  a  book  on  the  feelings 
inspired  by  this  same  desolate  region,  especially  when 
they  are  whetted  by  the  conversation  of  a  man  who  has 
made  a  study  of  the  geological  conditions  and  can  carry 
you  from  effect  to  cause  and  explain  the  why  and  where- 
fore of  present  appearances." 

And,  indeed,  who  can  look  upon  these  numberless  ex- 
tinct volcanoes,  with  their  adjacent  beds  of  black  lava, 
which  have  flowed  out  in  every  direction,  covering  hun- 
dreds of  square  miles ;  these  miles  of  Sahara,  where  wind 
storms,  fiercer  than  Arabian  simoons,  carry  the  desert 
sand  with  such  force,  and  in  such  quantities  as  to  stop 
the  express  trains  and  even  carve  the  sandstone  and  igne- 
ous rock  into  strange  and  weird  shapes  to  afford  scope 
to  the  pencils  of  generations  yet  to  see  them  as  to  how 
they  were  there  carved ;  upon  the  dried  up  beds  of  alkali 
lakes,  and  beaches,  upon  which  the  waves  of  long  extinct 
inland  seas  restlessly  tossed ;  upon  the  acres  of  shells  left 
there  within  the  final  upheaval  of  the  mountain  chains  of 
the  Pacific  Slope  shut  off  this  section  from  the  great  ocean 
outside ;  upon  these  fantastic  desert  trees — the  cacti — 
some  shaped  like  barrels,  others  like  giant  candelabra, 
.sixty  or  more  feet  high,  or,  when  seen  at  night  time,  like 
hideous  forms  of  the  past,  reaching  out  towards  you, 
and  following  you,  as  if  they  would  seize  and  tear  you 
from   the   happy   present.      I    say,   who   can   gaze   upon   all 


3/0 

this  and  not  feci  a  deep  and  profound  interest  in  the  work- 
ing forces  of  Nature  and  a  desire  to  comprehend  the  pro- 
cesses by  which  worlds  are  made. 

Here  the  wonderful  mirage  can  be  studied,  as  probably 
nowhere  else  in  the  world.  The  frenzied  prospector  or 
traveler,  perishing  with  thirst  and  afterwards  discovered 
and  saved,  will  willingly  describe  to  you  the  horrors  of 
his  approaching  death  and  the  ecstatic  joy  he  felt  to  see 
in  the  near  distance  a  silvery  stream,  lined  with  waving 
trees  and  rich  grass.  Cool  and  delicious  it  seemed,  and  he 
hastened  on  toward  it,  his  tongue  black  and  thick,  lolling 
out  of  his  mouth,  his  lips  cracked  and  baked,  frenzied  for 
water;  only  to  find  a  burning  alkali  desert  in  the  place 
of  his  long  sought  oasis. 

Right  in  the  heart  of  the  desert  is  the 

Calico  Mining  District,  so  named  from  the  singular 
coloring  and  general  appearance  of  the  hills,  which  appear 
more  as  if  they  had  been  dropped  upon  the  sand  than 
heaved  through  it.  The  hills  are  exceedingly  rich  in 
gold  and  silver,  and  countless  victims  have  been  lured 
from  safety  to  terrible  death  by  the  fascinations  these 
singular  hills  possess.  In  their  rich  grays,  browns,  reds, 
purples  and  greens,  they  remind  us  of  the  old-fashioned 
calicoes  worn  by  long  past  generations,  but  that  quaint  and 
picturesque  figure  of  the  west, — the  prospector, — roamed 
over  them,  digged  and  scraped,  hammered  and  picked 
with  no  thought  of  his  maternal  ancestry.  All  his  desire 
was  centred  on  present  wealth,  and  with  feverish  anxiety 
he  sought  for  traces  of  the  gold  bearing  rock  which  alone 
could  quench  the  burning  fever  of  that  desire. 

Reaching  Goffs,  the  Barnwell  branch  of  the  Santa  Fe 
leaves  here  and  runs  north  into  a  very  rich  mineral  coun- 
try, with  a  terminus  at  Ivanpah.     By  this  means  Vander- 


371 

bilt,  Manvel,  Searchlight,  Goode  Springs  and  several  other 
important  mining  camps  are  reached. 

Daggett  is  a  junction  point  with  the  Salt  Lake,  Los 
Angeles  and  San  Pedro  Railway,  work  having  already 
commenced  at  that  point  to  connect  with  the  line  at  River- 
side. Daggett  is  the  shipping  point  of  the  Pacific  Coast 
Borax  company.  This  company  is  a  large  shipper  of  borax 
from  Teel's  marsh  in  Death  Valley.  In  1872  ]\Ir.  F.  I\L 
Smith  discovered  the  borax  deposits  and  he  and  his 
brother  organized  a  company  to  work  the  claims.  They 
finally  obtained  sole  control  of  Teel's  marsh  by  buying 
out  over  one  hundred  locators,  and  in  clearing  up  all 
adverse  claims.  The  property  then  passed  to  the  Pacific 
Coast  Borax  company,  about  twelve  years  ago.  From  that 
time  on,  the  growth  of  the  industry  has  been  rapid.  The 
product  in  1864  of  twelve  tons  was  worth  $780  a  ton  or 
thirty-nine  cents  a  pound.  In  1874  914  tons,  worth  four- 
teen cents  a  pound.  In  1884,  1,019  tons,  worth  about  ten 
cents  a  pound.  In  1894  the  product  was  5,770  tons,  worth 
seven  cents  a  pound.  In  1901,  10,815  tons,  worth  seven 
cents  a  pound.  In  other  words,  during  the  first  ten  years 
the  output  increased  from  an  average  of  a  ton  a  month 
to  seventy-six  tons. .  In  the  next  decade  this  was  in- 
creased to  eighty-five  tons.  In  the  third  decade  it  was  in- 
creased to  480  tons,  and  at  the  present  time  the  product  is 
over  1,000  tons  per  month.  While  the  Teel's  marsh  was 
important,  it  was  probably  the  development  of  the  borax 
fields  of  Death  Valley  in  1880  that  brought  Mr.  Smith  the 
reputation  which  made  his  name  a  household  word  all 
over  the  world. 

It  is  impossible  to  give  a  pen  picture  of  the  difificultie? 
encountered.  The  bottom  of  Death  Valley  is  nearly  400 
feet  below  sea  level.  In  1880  the  operating  point  was  over 
50  miles   from   San  Bernardino,  the  base  of  supplies.     In 


372 

that  distance  tlicrc  was  scarcely  a  spring;  or  a  droi)  of  wa- 
ter, yet  lumber,  horses,  wagons  and  supplies  had  to  be 
taken  through.  Houses  were  built  fast,  the  work  of  mak- 
ing borax  went  right  on,  and  the  "Twenty-Mule  Team" 
became  a  houshold  word.  The  wagons  usually  used  for 
bringing  borax  from  the  desert  were  the  largest  and  most 
economical  ever  built,  holding  ten  tons  each,  and  drawn  by 
eighteen  mules  and  two  horses,  and  steered  by  a  single 
"jerk"  line.  This  "jerk"  line  or  single  rein  by  which  the 
gigantic  team  was  guided  was  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  feet  long.  Two  of  these  wagons  held  a  carload  of 
borax.  In  the  picture  of  them,  familiar  to  everyone,  will 
be  seen  a  huge  water  tank  trailing  along  behind.  The 
route  of  this  wagon  was  over  one  of  the  most  rugged  and 
precipitous  mountain  ranges  in  the  world,  namely,  the 
Panamint  Mountains. 

For  eight  years,  or  until  1888,  the  work  was  maintained. 
With  the  discovery  of  colemanite  in  the  Calico  Moun- 
tains, near  Daggatt,  the  scene  of  operations  was  changed. 
This  colemanite,  which  is  a  borate  of  lime,  lies  in  veins 
and  is  mined  just  as  gold  quartz  would  be  mined.  Owing 
to  the  scarcity  of  water  at  Daggatt  for  manufcturing  pur- 
poses, the  crude  material  is  shipped  to  the  Alameda  Re- 
finery for  supplying  the  Pacific  Coast  market,  and  to 
the  huge  refinery  at  Bayonne,  New  Jersey,  which  supplies 
the  entire  borax  trade  in  the  East. 

The  distance  from  Needles  to 

Barsfozv  is  169  miles,  and  here  we  are  142  miles  from 
Los  Angeles.  The  stations  passed  on  the  way  are 
Blake,  Fenner,  Bagdad  and  Daggett,  the  latter  being  the 
shipping  point  for  the  Calico  Mines  and  also  for  many 
other   interesting   inland   points. 

The  San  Francisco  branch  of  tlio  Santa  Fc  leaves  from 


373 

this  point  and  goes  to  the  Golden  Gate  metropolis  by  wa}' 
of  Mohave,  Fresno  and   Stockton. 

Barstow  itself  is  an  nnimportant  town  on  the  sontlu-rn' 
border  of  the  Mohave  desert.  It  is  the  distributing  point 
for  a  large  section  of  mining  country,  but  has  no  agri- 
cultural- or  manufacturing  interests.  There  are  round- 
houses here  and  small  repair  shops  belonging  to  the  rail- 
road, also  a  fine  eating-house. 

Bye  and  bye  the  Mohave  river  comes  in  sight,  and  how 
delightful,  refreshing  and  consoling  it  is.  For  quite  a  dis- 
tance the  cars  follow  its  winding  towards  its  source  in 
the  San  Bernardino  mountains,  then,  just  about  where  it 
branches  off  to  the  southeast  and  the  railroad  to  the  south- 
west, the  traveler  reaches  the  station  of 
Vicor,  and  a  little  further  on, 

Hesperia.  These  two  towns  are  on  the  northern  water- 
shed of  the  San  Bernardino  range,  at  an  altitude  of  3,200 
feet,  overlooking  the  vast  Mohave  desert,  and  lie  in  a  pe- 
culiar semi-basin  or  valley,  which  has  received  the  name 
of  Hesperia  Valley.  The  San  Bernardino  range  on  the 
south,  and  the  Hesperia  mountains  on  the  north,  both 
snow-clad  for  several  months  in  the  j'ear,  on  one  side,  and 
the  great  Mohave  desert  on  the  other,  give  a  local  pe- 
culiarity to  the  climate  of  Hesperia  seldom  found  in  South- 
ern California.  Here  the  air  warm  and  dry  from  the  desert, 
laden  with  the  odor  of  the  pine  and  fir  from  the  moun- 
tains and  cooled  by  contact  with  the  snow-banks,  and 
bathed  in  ozone  from  the  ocean,  meet  and  eddy  and  circle 
and  mix  together,  thus  forming  a  region  which  for  some 
kinds  of  disease  is  unequalled.  Nearly  all  throat  and  lung 
diseases  readily  succumb  to  Hesperia  climate  without  any 
extraneous  medication  whatever,  and  for  asthma  there  are 
few  places  on  the  continent  equal  to  it.  The  coolness  from 
the  mountains  and  ocean  prevents  the  atmosphere  from  be- 


coming  healed  by  proximily  lo  ihc  desert,  and  yet  tli' 
desert  air  dries  and  makes  aseptic  the  moisture-laden  air 
it  commingles  with.  Therefore  it  is  healthful  and  invig- 
orating under  almost  all  circumstances. 

Botli  settlements  are  small,  but  growing  constantly,  and 
are  especially  worthy  the  consideration  of  those  seeking 
health. 

Here  the  tourist  sees  vast  areas  of  monster  cacti,  like- 
gigantic  trees,  covered  with  rough  velvet,  which  has  been 
frayed  by  the  rains  and  storms  until  it  looks  dilapidated 
and  tattered. 

Ascending  the  San  Bernardino  Mountains,  with  the 
land  of  flowers  and  orange  groves  before,  and  the  w^ide 
sandy  desert  behind,  this  is  the  dividing  line,  and  still, 
before  leaving  the  desert,  it  is  only  fair  to  say  that  its 
winter  climate  is  one  of  the  most  delightful  en  route. 
The  traveler  who  cares  not  for  cities  and  crowds,  and  the 
companionship  of  men,  but  who  loves  to  know  nature, 
wmU  find  here  a  delicious,  equable  atmosphere,  seldom  be- 
low 60  deg.  Fahr.,  with  a  constant,  bright,  beautiful  sun- 
shine, never  hot  and  never  cold.  The  desert  becomes 
carpeted  over  with  flowers,  as  rich  and  rare  as  any  garden 
ever  boasted,  and  no  one  would  dream  at  such  a  time  that 
this  was  the  great  American  Sahara. 

Summit  is  fift3'--six  miles  from  Barstow,  on  the  road  to 
Los  Angeles,  and  six  miles  further  along 

Cajon  is  reached.  These  are  both  small  stations,  con- 
taining nothing  of  special  interest  to  the  tourist.  The  ob- 
servant traveler  will  notice,  however,  between  Summit  and 
Cajon,  a  curious  bit  of  engineering.  For  several  years, 
during  the  rainy  season,  traffic  used  to  be  interrupted  by 
land  slides  in  the  Cajon  Pass.  The  earthen  sides  of  deep 
cuts,  softened  by  the  torrents  poured  from  the  mountain- 
side falling  on  the  track,  sometimes  blocked  it  for  miles.    A 


375 

former  general  manager  of  the  Santa  Fe  overcame  this 
difficulty  by  an  ingenius  contrivance,  consisting  of  a  series 
of  roofed  terraces  on  the  sides  of  deep  gorges,  arranged 
laterally  with  the  track  so  as  to  carry  the  accumulated 
water  away  in  several  streams  to  the  end  of  the  cut,  in- 
stead of  allowing  it  to  fall  perpendicularly  from  the  high 
banks. 

Irvington,  seventy-three  miles  from  Barstow,  and  sixty- 
nine  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is  a  small  station,  but  it  is 
interesting  here  to  note  the  bee  ranches  and  deciduous 
fruit  orchards,  tucked  away  in  little  nooks  and  corners 
on  the  mountain  side. 

San  Bernardino  is  the  county  seat,  with  a  population  of 
over  10,000.  Since  the  extension  of  the  city  limits  San 
Bernardino  takes  on  quite  a  metropolitan  air.  It  is  also 
reached  by  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad,  via  Colton. 

It  is  the  oldest  of  California  towns,  as  it  was  settled  in 
1851  by  Mormon  colonists.  It  was  not,  however,  placed 
in  direct  railroad  connection  with  the  East  until  1886,  when 
the  Santa  Fe  System  was  extended  to  the  Coast.  This 
city  is  the  divisional  headquarters  of  the  Santa  Fe  Rail- 
way, and  contains  round  house,  car  shops,  machine  shops 
and  storehouses  of  the  companj'.  The  offices  of  chief  en- 
gineer and  superintendent  of  machinery  are  also  located 
here. 

The  city  has  good  hotels,  three  banks  which  do  a  pros- 
perous business,  canning  factories,  large  lumber  yards,  a 
flour  mill,  foundry,  carriage  works,  and  numerous  other 
grow'ing  industries. 

San  Bernardino  is  at  an  elevation  of  1,025  feet,  and  is 
well  supplied  with  good  water.  Pure  artesian  water  springs 
from  about  six  hundred  wells  in  the  city  and  vicinity. 
The  ordinary  depth  of  these  wells  is  about  two  hundred 
feet,  and  they  range  from  two  to  seven  inches  in  diameter. 


376 

The  average  rainfall  in  San  Bernardino  Valley  for  twenty 
years  exceeds  seventeen  inches  annually.  It  falls  at  a  tem- 
perature of  fifty  degrees.  At  an  elevation  of  6,800  feet  is 
Bear  Valley  Lake,  which  is  the  first  and  foremost  of  the 
water  reservoirs,  not  only  in  San  Bernardino  County,  but 
in  California.  Having  been  originally  a  mountain  lake, 
the  narrow  mouth  of  which  became  cut  out  by  floods,  it 
was  again  dammed,  ten  years  ago,  by  solid  masonry.  Three 
other  storage  systems  for  this  section  are  now  being  con- 
structed. The  Arrowhead  Reservoir  Company  has  ex- 
pended already  an  aggregate  of  more  than  $350,000  for 
reservoir  sites,  tunnels,  grading,  etc. 

San  Bernardino  is  to  a  considerable  extent  headquar- 
ters for  prospectors  and  mining  operations  generally.  The 
Times-Index,  one  of  the  best  dailies  of  Southern  Cali- 
fornia, makes  a  specialty  of  reporting  the  mining  news. 
This  county  possesses  varied  and  extensive  deposits  of 
mineral  wealth.  The  vast  desert  wastes,  with  their  rugged 
mountains,  gulches  and  rocky  ravines,  contain  untold  mil- 
lions of  treasure,  in  gold,  silver,  copper,  lead,  zinc,  iron, 
manganese,  borax,  salt,  soda,  baryta,  gypsum,  sulphur, 
marble,  etc.  Persistent  prospecting  is  carried  on  all  the 
time,  and  on  some  of  the  street  corners,  occupied  all  the 
time  by  animated  groups  of  prospectors,  the  uninitiated 
passer-by  catches  fragments  of,  to  him,  an  unknown  lan- 
guage as  the  conversation  waxes  warm  on  the  subject  of 
mining,  prospecting,  crushing  and  smelting  of  ores. 

San  Bernardino  County  has  over  two  million  orange 
trees  within  here  border;  many  of  them  are  young  trees 
as  yet,  but  what  a  promise  for  the  future  is  there  in  this 
one  industrj'. 

The  city  has  many  fine  buildings  worthy  of  note,  too 
numerous  to  dwell  upon  in  detail,  and  is  growing  in  this 
respect  every  daj'.   There  are  five  handsome  churches,   at 


y77 

least  ten  fine  hotels,  and  a  high  school  building  erected 
at  a  cost  of  $75,000.  The  city  is  well  equipped  for  edu- 
cational purposes,  employing  thirty-three  teachers  and  pos- 
sessing numerous  handsome  school  houses.  Four  good 
newspapers  are  published  in  the  city,  two  of  which  are 
dailies.  The  Chamber  of  Commerce  is  now  soliciting  the 
co-operation  of  capitalists,  with  a  view  to  the  establish- 
ment of  several  new  enterprises  which  are  needed  and 
warranted  by  the  prosperous  conditions  of  the  city. 

The  scenery  around  San  Bernardino  is  indescribably 
grand.  Range  after  range  of  mountains  are  in  view,  with 
a  view  as  far  as  the  horizon  of  the  verdant  San  Gabriel 
Valley,  San  Bernardino,  San  Gorgonio,  Santiago,  San  An- 
tonio, the  Cucamonga  Peaks  are  all  in  sight,  and  during 
the  winter,  when  clothed  in  their  robe  of  purest  white, 
they  present  a  scene  not  surpassed  by  any  view  in  the 
Alps,  when  taken  into  consideration  with  the  richly  green 
valleys  at  their  feet. 


CHAPTER    XXXIII. 

OVER  THE   KITE-SHAPED  TRACK  ON   THE  SANTA   FE  ROUTE 

The  two  loops  that  form  this  line  of  railroad  give  the 
route  its  name.  The  larger  loop  extends  from  Los  An- 
geles to  San  Bernardino  over  two  routes,  and  the  smaller 
from  San  Bernardino  to  Redlands,  likewise  over  two 
routes.  The  visitor  to  Southern  California  sees  more 
country  and  a  greater  variety  of  scenery  on  this  trip  than 
any  other  one  route  of  the  South.  He  is  taken  through  the 
center  of  a  wonderful  fruit  growing  country,  with  the 
great  Sierra  Madre  Mountains  on  the  one  side  and  the 
rolling  valley  on  the  other.  This  is  the  famous  Kite- 
Shaped  Track  of  the  Santa  Fe. 

After  leaving  the  architecturally  unique  "La  Grande" 
depot  at  Los  Angeles,  with  its  picturesque  and  fragrant 
gardens,  we  enter  the  less  picturesque  suburbs. 

Only  a  few  years  ago,  the  occasional  Mexican  cluster  of 
houses  by  the  wayside,  whose  dry  swept  sunbeaten  gardens 
found  their  only  adornment  in  the  dusky  litter  of  small 
humanity  growing  up  like  weeds  in  uncared  for  freedom, 
alone  gave  fugitive  greeting  from  time  to  time.  Otherwise 
latent  nature  held  absolute  sway.  But  now  we  travel  over 
well  paved  roads,  or  with  all  the  comfort  of  the  Pullman 
luxuries,  from  one  station  to  another,  discovering  an  un- 
dreamed of  round  of  resources  and  wealth  of  industry  that 
comes  with  the  infusion  of  art  and  human  thought  into 
nature. 

At  Dozvney  Avenue  the  train  touches  the  East  Los  An- 
geles division  of  the  city,  lying  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
Arroyo  Seco.  This  suburb  is  connected  with  the  city  by 
several  arched  bridges  which  are  crossed  by  electric  and 


379 

cable  lines.  It  is  provided  with  its  own  post  office,  com- 
mercial houses,  schools  and  churches.  Its  main  street,  or 
Downey  Avenue,  presents  quite  an  arboreal  appearance, 
with  its  long  lining  of  mature  pepper  trees,  extending  their 
graceful  fern  tipped  branches  over  the  broad  walks. 

Sycaviore  Grove,  a  large  group  of  aged  sycamores,  af- 
fording generous  shelter,  and  occasionally  put  to  the  use  of 
picnic  grounds.  The  individuality  of  these  trees  is  re- 
markable. There  is  a  fertile  range  of  suggestions  in  con- 
tortions and  attitudes  so  human  that  they  might  be  styled 
"crystallized  feelings."  There  is  something  tragic  in  the 
bearing  of  these  sycamores.  Singly  or  in  groups  they 
appeal  to  the  imagination ;  they  fear,  hope,  implore  and 
writhe  in  true  Doresque  fashion,  like  the  souls  condemned 
by  Dante  to  tree  life.  In  fact,  they  all  but  speak,  and  a 
poet's  ear  might  fill  in  the  scene  with  the  whispering 
tempo  of  their  leaves  and  interpret  the  drama  in  all  its 
fullness. 

Four  and  one-half  miles  from  the  station,  but  still  in 
the  city  of  Los  Angeles,  we  meet 

Highland  Park,  which  records  a  distinct  rise,  being  530 
feet  in  elevation  above  the  sea.  It  is  still  a  small  settlement 
inhabited  chiefly  by  live  oaks,  and  rugged  trees  that  march 
up  the  broad  hillside  in  caravan,  forming  a  cool  shelter  for 
the  clustered  little  houses.  Then  canyons  ".ucceed  cerillos 
(small  round  hills)   in  picturesque  ascent  until 

Garvauca  (the  last  station  in  Los  Angeles  city)  is 
reached,  a  broad  plateau  about  556  feet  elevation  above  sea 
level.  Here  there  are  several  trade  houses  and  a  hotel, 
with  a  commanding  outlook  upon  the  mountains  and  Pasa- 
dena heights.  Nenr  Sunset  the  ■R.nvmnnd  Hotel  from  this 
point  looks   likp   n    sold    pmhlnzonerl   rn^tlo 

Here  is  located  the  Art  Building  of  the  Art  Department 
of  the  University  of-  Southern  California.     It  is  a  pictur- 


38o 

esque  building  witli  fine  outlook,  well  equipped  within  for 
the  teaching  of  all  the  various  dcpartmcniM  of  legitimate 
art.  Its  designer  was  W.  L.  Judson,  who  is  also  the  dean 
of  the  College  of  Art.  His  work  as  an  artist  has  already 
gained  him  an  international  reputation,  especially  his  poetic 
interpretations  of  Western  scenes  and  the  Grand  Canyon 
of  the  Colorado  in  Arizona. 

The  river  bed  in  this  district  affords  an  extensive  range 
of  Chinese  vegetable  gardens  which  contribute  largely  to 
the  daily  supply  of  Pasadena  tables.  Seven  and  one-half 
miles  from  Los  Angeles  is 

SOUTH  PASADENA: 

Elevation,   674  feet.     To  Los  Angeles,   7  miles. 
To   Chicago,   2,257   miles. 

It  is  difficult  to  find  the  line  that  separates  these  fertile 
suburbs  of  Pasadena,  only  that  orchard  succeeds  orchard 
in  growing  profusion  and  in  all  directions.  Oranges, 
lemons,  walnuts,  almonds,  pears,  olives,  and  peaches  rank 
among  the  favorites.  Washington  navels  and  apricots  take 
the  lead  in  quantity.  The  largest  ranch  of  this  district  is 
that  of  the  Raymond  Improvement  Company,  consisting  of 
360  acres,  largely  planted  in  oranges,  walnuts  and  vine- 
yards. The  site  of  the  great  Raymond  Hotel  was  originally 
a  part  of  this  land,  but  was  presented  by  the  company  for 
the  purpose  of  establishing  an  unrivaled  site  for  Southern 
Californian  travelers.  An  old  adobe  still  survives  this 
ranch,  although  supported  here  and  there  by  some  modern 
additions.  It  is  inhabited  by  the  zanjero  of  the  ranch  and 
is  located  near  the  reservoir  at  the  foot  of  the  Raymond 
hill. 

The  soil  of  South  Pasadena  is  exceedingly  rich,  bemg 
sandy  loam,  and  requires  little  irrigation.  Five  and  a  half 
acres  of  land  have  produced  700  boxes  of  oranges  at  $50 
tost,  sold  for  $1,100. 


38i 

The  season  for  rain,  allhongh  nsually  between  November 
and  May,  is  variable  for  different  years.  In  1884  the  record 
was  the  highest  known,  amounting  to  37  inches,  and  in  1876 
the  lowest,  being  only  five  inches.  With  a  remarkable  uni- 
formity of  temperature  for  successive  seasons,  there  is  an- 
equally  remarkable  diversity  in  the  amount  of  moisture. 

South  Pasadena  has  a  post  ofifice,  a  good  schoolhouse, 
three  churches,  and  pretentious  business  blocks.  There  is 
also  a  live  and  active  newspaper,  called  The  Pasadenan, 
furnishing  social  news  and  industrid  reports  weekly. 
Since  the  advent  of  Mr.  H.  E.  Huntington's  Interurban 
Electric  lines,  especially  the  "Short  Line"  to  Pasadena, 
South  Pasadena  has  rapidly  been  improving. 

Two  miles  beyond  South  Pasadena  station,  after  passing 
through  a  confusion  of  fruit-bearing  groves  that  in  their 
ripening  season  delight  the  eye  of  the  artist,  the  palate  of 
the  epicure  and  the  purse  of  the  "monopolist"  who  owns 
them,  we  finally  halt  at  an  architecturally  graceful  building 
of  red  brick — the  station  for  the  famous 

"Raymond"  Hotel  that  stands  out  in  colossal  proportions 
on  the  hill  to-  the  right  of  the  traveler. 

Pasadena  is  fully  described  in  its  own  chapter. 

LAMANDA  PARK: 

To    Los   Angeles,    13    miles.      To    Chicago,    2,251 
miles. 

From  station  to  station  we  encounter  one  long  series  of 
orchards,  citrus  and  deciduous  fruits  and  berry  fields. 
No  one  can  pass  through  these  regions  in  swift  succession 
and  not  wonder  at  the  marvelous  productiveness  of  earth, 
the  magic  of  chemistry,  that  flic  almost  invisible  germ  pro- 
duces the  vigorous,  fruit-dispensing,  towering  tree,  with 
branches  1ient  to  the  ground  with  its  generous,  life-preserv- 
ing gift.  Here  the  same  soil  and  moisture  woos  the 
northern  and  southern  fruits  into  ripeness.    The  deciduous 


3^3 

apple,  the  corraline  cherry,  the  sour  lemon  and  sweet 
persimmon,  all  grow  in  close  neighborhood  and  fraternal 
harmony,  no  one  detracting  from  the  flavor,  size  or  beauty 
of  the  other. 

We  are  now  in  the  midst  of  the  live  oak  region,  and  at 
Lamanda  Park  they  are  grouped  in  large  masses,  beauti- 
ful in  their  ruggedness  and  irregular  strength.  At  one 
time  there  was  a  great  forest  of  these  noble  trees,  but,  little 
by  little,  they  have  been  utilized  by  the  tiller  of  the  soil, 
for  fuel.  The  needs  of  civilized  man  do  not  respect  the 
hoary  age  of  trees.  The  Indian,  more  humanelj',  cuts  only 
the  branches  of  the  tree  for  fuel,  but  holds  the  trunk  and 
root  sacred.     At 

SANTA  ANITA : 

To    Los    Angeles,    15    miles.      To    Chicago,    2,249 
miles. 

the  traveler  lands  at  the  great  Baldwin  ranch,  which  main- 
tains hundreds  of  workmen.  Here  are  groves,  orchards, 
cattle,  horses  and  all  the  appointments  that  convert  sandy 
loam  and  adobe  into  a  prolific  and  profitable  fruit-bearing 
region.  The  entire  ranch  comprises  about  49,000  acres. 
A  favorite  drive  extends  from  this  homestead  to  Los 
Angeles,  lined  with  orchards,  vineyards,  fertile  wheat  and 
barley  fields.  Race  stables  and  a  winery  are  also  drawing 
features  of  this  ranch  and  some  of  the  best  blood  stock 
of  Southern  California  may  be  found  among  "Lucky  Bald- 
win's." 

Sierra  Madre  is  a  beautiful  little  village  at  the  very  foot 
of  the  mountains  bearing  the  same  name.  Picturesque  for 
situation,  healthful  and  always  inviting,  Sierra  Madre  has 
long  enjoyed  a  most  enviable  reputation.  It  has  good 
scliools  and  churches  and  is  quietly  progressive. 

Wilson's  Peak.    An  ideal  camp  life  can  be  enjoyed  in  the 


3H4 

j^rcat  pine  forests  on  the  snmmit  of  tlic  Sierra  Madrc  at 
Wilson's  Peak.  During  the  summer  this  grand  natural 
park  is  open  for  campers.  Comfortable  cottage  tents  have 
been  erected  and  may  be  rented  furnished  or  unfurnished, 
liy  tlic  week  or  month.  A  superintendent  is  in  charge  of 
the  camp  who  will  give  attention  to  locating  guests  and 
supplying  them  with  such  groceries  and  provisions  as  they 
desire.  All  camp  lots  are  nicely  graded  and  so  located  as 
to  have  plenty  of  shade  and  fine  outlook. 

Martin's  Camp,  a  summer  and  winter  resort,  is  about  a 
mile  below  the  summit.  This  well  known  resort  has  been 
conducted  for  a  number  of  years,  and  is  visited  by  thou- 
sands annually.  It  is  a  most  unique  little  village  with  its 
main  buildings,  cottages  and  tents  nestled  in  among  the 
trees.  Water,  cold  and  clear  as  crystal,  is  piped  to  the 
camp  from  springs  nearly  six  thousand  feet  high.  The 
camp  now  consists  of  a  large  dining  hall  and  kitchen,  ladies' 
sitting  room  with  a  large  stone  fireplace,  bath  room,  and 
numerous  cottages  and  tent  houses.  From  here  well  graded 
bridle  roads  and  walks  lead  in  all  directions.  The  camp 
is  on  a  divide  between  Mt.  Wilson  and  Mt.  Harvard,  with 
the  great  Santa  Anita  Canyon  on  the  east  and  Eaton's 
Canyon  on  the  west.  The  air  is  always  cool,  bracing  and 
dry.  The  table  is  the  best,  and  the  "mountain  train,"  ar- 
riving daily  from  the  valley  below,  comes  laden  with  the 
choicest  meats,  fresh  vegetables  and  fruits  the  market 
afifords. 

Hcnningcr's  Flats.  About  one-third  of  the  distance  up. 
the  road  passes  through  Henninger's  Flats,  a  mesa  contain- 
ing a  large  area  of  tillable  land,  where  an  old-time  Cali- 
fornian.  "Capt.  Henninger,"  lived  a  hermit  life  for  many 
ve:ir>^.  .\  good  supply  of  water  is  piped  from  a  canyon 
near  by.  The  next  settlement  is  the  Half-way  House  in  a 
beautiful    grove   of   mountain   oaks.     The   proprietor,    Mr. 


385 

Schneider,  will  furnish  you  with  refreshments  and  lodgin_ 
if  desired.  From  here  to  the  summit  much  of  the  way  is 
through  the  magnificent  mountain  forests.  A  trip  over  the 
road  in  winter  is  never  to  be  forgotten.  From  "roses  to 
snow"  in  a  few  hours'  time  and  return  the  same  day  if 
desired. 

How  to  get  from  Los  Angeles  to  Wilson's  Peak  via  Old 
Trail.  Take  the  Santa  Fe  train  to  Santa  Anita  (i6  miles). 
Then  take  the  Twycross  'Bus  to  foot  of  trail  (2  miles). 
Then  you  take  a  sure-footed  burro  for  a  ride  of  eight  miles 
over  the  old  Wilson  trail,  and  at  the  end  you  find  yourself 
on  Wilson's  Peak  among  the  big  pines. 

How  to  get  from  Los  Angeles  and  Pasadena  to  Wilson's 
Peak  via  toll  road  of  the  old  Wilson  trail : 

Take  any  car  to  Pasadena.  Call  at  Morgan's  livery  stable, 
44  South  Raymond  avenue,  or  telephone  in  advance.  Main 
56,  to  engage  animals  and  stage.  Stage  daily  to  foot  of 
either  trail  8  A.  M.  and  2  P.  M.  Stage  leaves  foot  of  trail 
for  return  11  A.  M.  and  5  P.  M.,  but  must  be  telephoned  in 
advance  and  leaves  promptly  on  stated  hours.  Other  hours 
than  the  above  regular  livery  rates  will  be  charged.  Tickets 
for  stage  and  animals  can  be  procured  only  at  the  above 
num'ber,  and  tickets  only  can  procure  animals  at  foot 
of  trail.  For  further  information  call  upon  Tourist  In- 
formation Bureau,  211  West  Fourth  street,  telephone  John 
2566,  or  Chas.  Grimes,  South  Fair  Oakes  avenue,  Pasadena, 
telephone  Red  1183. 

Sierra  Madre  Villa  is  one  of  the  landmarks  of  Southern 
California.  For  many  years  it  was  the  leading  tourist  and 
health  resort  of  the  State,  and  while  it  has  lost  none  of  its 
own  attractiveness,  it  has  merely  yielded  to  its  more  noisy 
city  competitors. 

Arcadia,  immediately  adjoining  Baldwin's  ranch,  betrays 
the   occult   secret  of  native   prosperity.     It   is   one   broad, 


386 

wliolcsnmc  nursery,  licaring  over  one  hundred  thousand 
trees  of  citrus  and  deciduous  fruits.  There  is  a  hotel  of 
red  brick  at  this  point,  bearing  the  name  "Arcadia,"  where 
generous  supplies  of  cooked  viands  are  served. 

All  through  this  section  the  healthy  young  sprigs  of 
orange,  lemon,  peach  and  apricot  border  the  railroad  lands. 
It  is  some  of  the  choicest  citrus  land  and  is  held  at  high 
value,  both  because  of  its  situation  and  excellent  facilties 
for  irrigation. 

Here  a  town  has  recently  been  (1903)  incorporated. 
Considerable  opposition  to  this  was  manifested  at  the 
time  and  it  was  claimed  that  Baldwin's  intention  was  to 
start  a  "wide  open"  gambling  resort  that  would  outrival 
the  notorious  gambling  places  of  Europe. 

After  leaving  Arcadia  we  meet  strong  contrasts,  long 
areas  of  wild  land  showing  strenuous  cultivation  of  weeds 
and  stones,  characteristic  of  the  Mexican's  indolent  love 
of  "nature  unadorned."  Beyond  this  the  blooming  groves 
of  IMonrovia  come  as  a  new  revelation.  One  spot  definitely 
summarises  the  capricious  neighboring  of  rugged  earth  and 
man's  tillage.  Tl  is  illustrated  by  an  immense  wild  cactus 
bed,  covering  an  acre  or  more,  an  abode  of  lizards,  ser- 
peftts  and  all  creeping  things,  touching  close  upon  a  w'ide 
velvety  expanse  of  fresh  alfalfa,  which  in  its  luscious,  in- 
describable wealth  of  green  shows  the  most  careful  culti- 
vation. 

A  pleasing  effect  of  perspective  is  gained  in  looking  up  to- 
wards the  foothills  on  entering 

MONROVIA : 

Population.  1,205.  Elevation.  51S  feet.  S.  P. 
Survey.  To  Los  Angeles,  IS  miles.  To  Chicago, 
2,246   miles. 

Two  magnificent  avenues  stretch  from  station  to  foot- 
hills in  gradual  ascent.     Handsome  houses  nestle  along  the 


387 

base  of  the  mountains  among  fertile  orchards.  All  lines 
of  business  are  conducted  in  the  thrifty  business  center. 
There  are  several  banks,  extensive  fruit  drying  establish- 
ments, seven  churches,  public  library,  a  grammar  and  high 
school.  Electric  cars  connect  the  town  with  Los  Angeles, 
running  every  half  hour.  The  Grand  View  Hotel  (or  La 
Vista  Grande),  capacity  150;  rates  $2.00  to  $3.00  per  day; 
$5.00  to  $12.00  per  week;  A.  E.  Cronenwett,  proprietor,  is 
located  on  the  higher  foothills  and  a  magnificent  view 
is  presented  of  the  exquisite  scenery  of  the  world-famed 
San  Gabriel  Valley.  It  is  first-class  in  its  appointments, 
there  being  electric  bells,  baths,  gas,  etc.  Also  Hotel  Mon- 
rovia, capacity  25,  rates  $1.00  per  day;  $5.00  to  $7.00  per 
week. 

From  here  the  home  seeker  may  drive  around  amongst 
the  orange  and  lemon  orchards,  and,  if  he  is  inclined  to 
mountaineering,  enjoy  rambles  into  the  heart  of  the  majestic 
mountains  which  form  the  northern  boundary  of  the  city. 
He  will  find  the  streets  of  Monrovia  clean,  dry  and  well 
drained,  owing  to  its  sloping,  foothill  location,  and  that  it 
well  deserves  its  title  "the  gem  of  the  foothills." 

DUARTE : 

Population,  644.  Elevation,  502  feet,  S.  P. 
Survey.  To  Los  Angeles,  20  miles.  To  Chicago, 
2,244    miles. 

Is  a  somewhat  smaller  town,  mainly  a  fruit  raising  and 
farming  community.  Its  oranges  are  of  a  superior  quality. 
It  is  furnished  with  one  hotel,  schools  and  stores.  Leaving 
Duarte  we  cross  the  river  1)cd  of  the  San  Gabriel  River. 
In  the  mountains  to  our  left  is  the  San  Antonio  Canyon. 
This  canyon  is  some  60  miles  in  length,  and  is  fast  becoming 
a  favorite  summer  haunt.  Tents  may  be  seen  to  dot  its 
rugged  breadth  for  miles  during  the  summer  season.  There 
is  good  fishing  and  hunting.     Here,  too,  the  electric  works 


388 

arc  stationed,  which  furnish  electric  light  to  Pomona,  On- 
tario and  vicinity,  as  the  power  supplied  by  water  is  uni- 
form the  year  round. 

In  the  summer  this  river  would  answer  the  definition 
given  by  some  traveler  who  declared  that  California  rivers 
differed  from  those  of  the  East  in  that  the  water  was  below 
and  the  bed  on  top,  but  in  the  rainy  season  it  rushes'  forth 
from  the  canyon  in  terriffic  torrents,  carrying  great  bould- 
ers for  miles  down  into  the  valley  lands. 

In  1901  a  scries  of  singular  facts,  which  demonstrate 
the  strange  actions  of  some  Southern  California  rivers, 
was  observed  in  the  San  Gabriel.  At  the  tunnel,  up  the 
canyon,  there  were  ten  thousand  inches  of  water.  At  the 
crossing  of  the  Santa  Fe  railroad,  a  mile  or  so  below  the 
canyon,  there  was  still  a  good  flow;  but  at  the  Southern 
Pacific  crossing,  a  mile  or  two  below  that,  not  a  drop  of 
water  was  to  be  seen.  A  quarter  of  a  mile  below  this, 
however,  the  water  began  to  reappear,  and  four  miles 
below  there  was  said  to  be  even  more  water  than  in  the 
tunnel.  Thus,  within  a  few  miles,  a  flow  of  ten  thousand 
inches  of  water  entirely  disappeared,  and  then  reappeared 
in  increased  volume. 

On  both  sides  of  this  river  bed  there  are  stretches  of  arid 
land,  because  of  the  dangerous  might  of  its  winter  flow, 
but  three  miles  beyond  Duarte  is 

AZUSA : 

To    Los   Angeles,    24   miles.      To    Chicago,    2.210 
miles. 

A  thriving  town.  It  owns  some  of  the  largest  orchards, 
and  does  more  fruit  shipping  than  any  other  station  be- 
tween Pomona  and  Los  Angeles.  Strawberries  are  a 
specialty  of  this  region. 

There  are  a  number  of  business  blocks,  an  excellent 
weekly   newspaper   called   the   Pomo-Tropic,   which   is   the 


3S9 

leading  horticultural  organ  of  Southern  California,  a  bank, 
an  ice  and  cold  storage  factory,  where  30  tons  of  ice  art 
made  every  twentj'-four  hours,  and  several  hotels.  Azusa 
was  established  in  1887,  but  it  is  only  during  the  past 
decade  and  a  half  that  it  has  grown  to  any  extent. 

The  history  of  Azusa  is  interwoven  with  the  early  history 
of  the  State.  As  a  fertile  and  productive  part  of  one  of 
the  old  Spanish  grants,  it  was  some  of  the  favorite  property 
of  Luis  Arenas,  one  of  the  leaders  to  obtain  land  from  the 
new  Republic  of  ^Mexico.  In  1844,  five  years  previous  to 
the  gold  excitement,  Henry  Dalton — of  sad  history — pur- 
chased the  ranch,  then  including  4,431  acres.  It  soon 
became  a  trading  settlement  with  a  small  winery  and  black- 
smith shop  and  ''tortilla"  foundr}'.  Here  Indians  and 
Spaniards  plied  their  trades,  the  former  in  spinning,  weav- 
ing, cart  and  saddle-making,  the  latter  in  hunting,  herding 
and  planting.  Azusa  is  therefore  one  of  the  most  ancient 
as  well  as  one  of  the  most  modern  towns,  and  any  traveler 
who  chooses  may  visit  a  little  old  adobe  that  still  stands 
as  a  pitiful  remnant  of  the  old  Dalton  homestead,  where 
the  energetic  young  English  merchant  lived  with  the  Spanish 
belle  of  his  choice,  Senorita  Zamereno,  whose  parents  emi- 
grated from  Spain.  Little  by  little  the  Dalton  lands  were 
divided  and  grazing  lands  converted  to  orchards. 

The  first  schoolhouse  of  Azusa  was  built  in  1865,  the 
ground  floor  of  the  establishment  being  of  good  mother 
earth.  The  walls  of  this  primitive  seat  of  learning  were 
tiers  of  brush,  pinioned  between  sticks,  roofed  with  shakes 
and  willows,  and  here  the  Mexican  youth  was  taught  his 
elements  of  knowledge  in  an  ample  apartment  12-40  feet. 
This  unique  adaptation  to  circumstances  has  long  served  to 
warm  some  native  hearth,  and  in  its  place  there  are  now 
some  handsomely  equipped  buildings,  the  most  stately  being 
the  city  high  school,  erected  in   1889,  at  a  cost  of  $9,000. 


390 

TIio  vallrv  sclmols  arc  minicrous,  hut  none  more  important 
llian  llir  free  kindergarten  school  of  Aziisa,  where  the 
j.M()vvin)4  ])owers  of  observation  are  directed  into  the  most 
useful  clianncls  and  where  the  child  is  taught  from  nature, 
rather  tliaii  from  books,  the  riches  and  utilities  of  life. 
TIuTf  arc  also  several  fraternal  societies,  and  five  churches. 
l'<il!o7^''s  Camp  is  picturesquely  located  on  a  mesa  alxjvc 
tlic  main  San  Gabriel  River,  fifteen  miles  from  Azusa,  and 
in  the  heart  of  the  Sierra  Madre.  It  is  comfortable  and 
homelike  and  is  headquarters  for  miners,  hunters  and 
fishormcn.  The  stage  ride  to  the  camp  is  interesting,  and 
from  il  one  may  equip  for  the  ascent  of  Mount  San  Anto- 
nio, a  climb  that  reveals  much  of  grandeur  and  beauty. 

CO  VINA: 

Population,    1,32S.      Elevation,    560    feet,    S.    P. 
Survey.      To    Los   Angeles,    23   miles. 

Tiie  unfoldmcnt  of  Covina  began  in  1887,  when  a  few 
pioneers  realized  that  the  barley  field  of  the  Phillips  Tract 
had  an  excellent  soil,  and  began  planting  trees.  At  the 
center  of  the  citrus  belt  of  this  valley,  about  twenty-five 
miles  northeast  of  Los  Angeles,  with  unsurpassed  thermal 
conditions,  it  presents  one  of  the  most  exuberant  and 
fertile  fruit  advantages  in  the  country.  There  are  a  num- 
ber of  business  firms,  two  large  fruit  packing  and  shipping 
houses,  drug,  dry  goods  and  hardware  stores,  carriage  shop 
and  livery  stables,  news  stand,  public  library  and  reading 
room  and  jeweler,  and  a  restaurant.  There  resides  here 
a  happy  and  an  industrious  class  of  people,  rapidly  building 
up  its  educational  opportunities. 

Covina  has  a  well  conducted  school  system  and  almost 
every  denomination  is  represented  among  the  churches. 
There  are  two  good  banking  houses,  a  building  and  loan 
association,  and  a  very  much  alive  newspaper.     Also  two 


391 

hotels,  the  Vendome,  capacity  35,  rates  $1.50  to  $2.50  per 
day,  $8.75  per  week,  managed  by  Villenger  Bros. ;  Covina 
House,  capacity  24,  rates  $1.00  to  $1.50  per  day,  $5.50  to 
$6.00  per  week.  Covina  is  a  town  famous  for  its  clubs  and 
societies.  The  possibilities  of  Covina  are  many,  and  it 
impresses  one  like  a  wide,  boundless  garden,  with  all  its 
blossoms  in  the  bud. 

VINELAND : 

Population,  1,871.     To  Los  Angeles,  25  miles. 

Situated  about  four  miles  southwest  of  Azusa  is  another 
promising  settlement,  elsewhere  described. 
The  next  station  eastward  from  Azusa  is 

GLENDORA : 

Elevation,   747  feet.   Sante   Fe  Survey.     To   Los 
Angeles,   26  miles.     To  Chicago,   2,238   miles. 

A  pretty  little  village  at  the  very  base  of  the  mountains. 

The  locality  is  totally  frostless  and  vegetables  and  berries 
are  cultivated  in  great  quantities  in  winter  for  Eastern 
trade.  Nestling  between  rising  footliills,  there  is  a  remark- 
able mildness  which  ripens  the  orange  one  month  earlier 
than  other  localities.  It  has,  also,  a  most  complete  system 
of  water  circulation,  pipes  being  laid  over  the  whole  terri- 
tory. There  are  churches  and  excellent  schools ;  also  hotel 
and  all  the  business  houses  essential  to  the  supplying  of 
the  town. 

SAN  DIMAS : 

To   Los    Angeles,    31    miles.      To    Chicago,    2,233 
miles. 

Although  only  four  miles  from  Glendora,  stands  200  feet 
above  it,  having  an  elevation  of  nearly  1,000  feet  above  sea 
level  and  abounds  in  healthy  young  orchards.  It  stands 
upon  the  dividing  line,  or  ridge,  between  the  San  Gabriel 


302 

and  roniuiia  Valleys,  with  an  iiiicqiialcd  view  of  the  lower 
slopes  and  horticultural  gardens. 

The  first  point  entering  Pomona  Valley  is 

LORDSBURG: 

I'opiilation,     ".00.       Elevation,     1,021     feet.     Santa 
Fe  Survey.     To  Los  Angeles,   33  miles.     To  Chi- 
cago, 2,231  miles. 

A  handsome,  stately  building  greets  the  traveler's  eye  as 
the  most  significant  pole  of  enterprise.  With  its  four- 
storied,  admirable  architecture  it  testifies  to  the  optimism 
prevailing  during  the  boom  .season  of  California  (1887) 
when  a  complete  hotel  at  any  geological  point  stood  for  an 
illustrious  town.  However,  the  hazardous  venture  in  this 
case  was  not  in  vain,  as  the  building  is  now  utilized  as  a 
college  by  the  Brethren,  or  Dunkards.  These  people  are  a 
thriving  and  generous  sect,  establishing  missions  at  various 
points  in  Southern  California  and  not  limiting  their  schools 
to  followers  of  their  own  creed.  Large  packing  houses  are 
found  here  to  care  for  and  ship  the  citrus  and  deciduous 
fruits  which  are  raised  in  the  many  surrounding  orchards. 

Leaving  this  quiet  little  center,  with  its  chiefly  mental 
interests  and  pursuits,  we  plunge  into  quite  a  different 
atmosphere,  when  we  come  into  contact  with 

NORTH  POMONA: 

Population,    6,000.      To   Los   Angeles,    34    miles. 
To   Chicago,   2,230   miles. 

From  North  Pomona  we  take  an  electric  car  line  that 
flies  over  two  miles  of  golden  rose  and  purple  fruit  or- 
chards to  the  heart  of  the  city  which  has  already  been  de- 
scribed in  another  chapter.  But  a  visit  to  Pomona  would 
be  incomplete  without  seeing  an  olive  oil  factory  in  opera- 
tion. 

Tlie  ripe  olives  are  spread  on  trays  and  allowed  to  dry 


393 

until  tliey  begin  to  shrivel ;  they  are  then  put  into  a  large 
iron  basin,  within  which  revolve  two  vertical  iron  wheels 
which  work  the  olives  into  a  pulp  without  crushing  the 
pits.  The  pulp  is  then  put  into  rush  sacks,  after  the 
Italian  method,  which  are  piled  up  in  the  press  and  sub- 
jected to  a  low  pressure.  The  oil  and  water  from  the  pulp, 
as  it  runs  from  the  press,  is  collected  in  tin  vessels  from 
which  the  oil  is  then  skimmed  off,  put  into  tin  tanks  and 
allowed  to  stand  several  weeks  to  clarify.  When  ready 
it  is  filtered  by  straining  through  white  filter  papers,  which 
are  put  into  funnels,  set  in  the  top  of  tanks,  in  which  the 
oil  is  collected.  From  this  receptacle  the  oil  is  drawn  off, 
bottled,  and  is  now  ready  for  the  market. 

CLAREMONT: 

Tearing  ourselves  reluctantly  away  from  Pomona  and  its 
many  attractions,  each  calling  for  attention  and  exciting  an 
interest  that  would  cause  us  to  linger  too  long  in  this 
highly  favored  vicinity,  we  resum  our  flight  over  th  Kite- 
Shaped  Track.  A  mile  from  North  Pomona  and  Claremont 
is  reached,  the  site  of 

Pomona  College,  the  pride  of  its  intellectual  progenitors. 
The  building  itself  is  another  one  of  those  still  born  hotels 
of  the  ephemeral  boom,  but  it  is  charmingly  adapted  for 
school  uses.  An  electric  railway  is  to  connect  the  college, 
around  which  the  little  settlement  of  Claremont  has  been 
gathering,  with  the  city  of  Pomona  that  supports  and 
mothers  it. 

As  Pomona  is  the  center  of  traffic,  the  spot  chosen  for 
the  school,  being  remote  and  quiet,  will  become  popular  as 
a  residence  site  for  its  people.  It  occupies  a  magnificent 
slope — a  locality  not  to  be  surpassed  at  the  foothills  for 
breadth  of  view. 

Here  the   student   has   a   constant  panoramic   display  at 


394 

liis  conimand,  as  varied  as  the  moods  of  nature,  a  ^yntliesis 
of  mountain,  vale  and  sea. 

With  the  donation  of  $50,000  a  second  building  was 
erected,  efficiently  equipped  by  competent  teachers  to  render 
a  iii'-;li  standard  of  education.  The  college  is  steadily 
.throwing,  under  tiic  enterprising  and  wise  management  of 
President  Gates. 


CUCA^IONGA 

was  the  settlement  on  the  old  stage  road  between  Los 
Angeles  and  San  Bernardino.  There  are  now  three  Cuca- 
mongas — Old,  North  and  South.  Looking  towards  the  two 
fine  mountain  peaks,  each  ten  thousand  feet  high,  "The 
Cucamonga  Peaks."  The  settlements  are  seen  north  of 
the  railway.  All  the  water  is  conveyed  through  pipes, 
which  is  both  healthful  and  economical. 

ETIWANDA 

is  also  north  of  the  station,  and  located  about  150 
feet  higher.  This  was  laid  out  by  the  Chaffey  Bros, 
before  they  laid  out  Ontario,  so  that  it  is  a  pioneer  settle- 
ment of  these  later  days.  Fine  raisin  grapes  grow  well  here. 
There  is  practically  no  town  here,  the  colony  system  being 
to  place  the  population  upon  orchard  tracts  of  from  five 
to  ten  acres  each. 


395 


NORTH  ONTARIO 

is  a  station  four  miles  further  on,  located  in  the  On- 
tario Colony  Tract.  This  station  is  connected  with  the 
business  center  of  the  citj'  of  Ontario  proper  by  an 
electric  street  car  line  which  traverses  the  famed  Euclid 
Avenue.  The  Ontario  Hotel  has  a  capacity  for  60  per- 
sons. Rates  $2.00  per  day,  $8.00  to  $12.00  per  week.  C. 
Prankish. 


''jyi.jk . 


Onl^Pi 


RIALTO: 

Elevation,    1,201    feet.      Population,    about    1,000.      To 
Los  Angeles,   56  miles.     To  Chicago,    2,20S   miles. 

It  is  distant  only  four  miles  from  San  Bernardino  and 
is  the  principal  town  of  what  is  known  as  the  Empire 
Colony,  a  tract,  of  about  30,000  acres  of  rich  soil.  Here 
are  men  and  women  of  energy  from  Ohio,  Indiana,  Illinois, 
Kansas  and  Nebraska  absorbed  in  the  task  of  making  for 
themselves  and  children  beautiful  and  profitable  homes. 

There  are  two  churches  organized  here,  and  each  has  a 
building  finely  furnished  and  paid  for.  Rialto  has  also  a 
$15,000  hotel,  which  is  conducted  in  good  style,  a  first-class 
well-edited  weekly  newspaper,  and  several  stores.  It  is  a 
promising  town  surrounded  as  it  is  with  fine  land,  coming 


396 

rapidly  under  cultivation.  Several  thousand  acres  have 
been  planted  to  canaigre,  which  is  already  largely  used  in 
tanning. 

A  short  run  of  fcnir  miles  further  lands  us  in  San  Ber- 
nardino, which  has  already  been  fully  described.  This  is 
the  crossing  point  of  the  Kite-Shaped  Track,  the  upper 
and  smaller  circle  being  made  from  here. 

Leaving  San  Bernardino  six  miles  north, 

ARROWHEAD  STATION 

is  reached.  This  is  the  "getting-ofif-place"  for  the  world- 
famed  Arrowhead  Hot  Springs,  located  at  an  elevation  of 
2,035  feet.  These  springs  were  famous  for  their  medicinal 
virtues  with  the  aboriginal  tribes  long  before  the  coming 
of  the  adventurous  pioneers  of  the  white  race  to  the  coast. 
The  hot  springs  burst  from  the  slopes  of  the  San  Bernard- 
ino range  one  thousand  feet  from  their  base.  A  bench  of 
land,  or  shelf-like  mesa,  projects  here  from  the  mountain 
containing  one  hundred  acres,  bounded  on  the  east  and 
west  by  two  enormous  canyons.  Down  the  ravine  on  the 
east  flows  a  mountain  stream  of  pure  cold  water,  while 
the  one  on  the  west  contains  a  stream  from  the  boiling 
springs  so  hot  that  it  fills  the  air  with  steam  and  sulphur- 
ous gas.  The  panoramic  views  from  this  point  are  ex- 
quisitely charming  and  beautiful.  An  immense  scope  of 
country  can  be  seen,  including  the  towns  of  San  Bernardino. 
Riverside,  Colton,  Redlands  and  a  wide  sweep  of  the 
valley  for  many  miles. 

An  analysis  of  the  water  of  these  springs  shows  their 
properties  to  be  almost  identical  with  those  of  the  famous 
Carlsbad. 

The  mud  bath  is  given  here  with  great  success,  and  it  is 
scarcely  to  be  doubted  that  it  benefits  more  cases  than  any 
other  form  of  bath  known. 


397 

On  the  face  of  the  mountains,  discernible  for  miles,  is 
the  figure  of  a  wonderful  arrowhead. 

This  arrowhead  is  eleven  hundred  and  fifteen  feet  in 
length  and  three  hundred  and  ninety-six  feet  in  width.  It 
is  perfect  in  shape,  and  this  has  led  many  to  believe  that 
it  was  artificially  made.  A  careful  survey  of  it,  however, 
scarcely  allows  this  hypothesis.  The  material  of  which  it  is 
composed  is  different  in  formation  from  that  of  other  por- 
tions of  the  mountain  side.  It  is  principally  of  disintegrated 
white  quartz  and  light  gray  granite,  sustaining  a  growth 
of  short  white  grass  and  weeds.  The  surrounding  earth  and 
shrubbery  is  dark,  thus  throwing  the  arrowhead  into  high 
relief. 

A  little  further  on  we  see  a  striking  building  to  the  left, 
from  which  the  station  gets  its  name.     This  is 
ASYLUM, 

A  structure  with  considerable  architectural  pretensions, 
and  which  is  a  model  institution  of  its  kind.  Then  fol- 
low in  rapid  succession,  the  little  stations  of  Messina, 
Molino,  East  Highlands  and  Aplin.  This  part  of  the 
valley  is  known  collectively  as  Highlands,  and  is  similar 
in  every  respect  to  Redlands. 

As    the    train   steams    up    to   the    pretty    little    station    at 

HIGHLANDS, 

the  traveler  alights  and  looks  about  him  with  exclama- 
tions of  pleasure.  Here,  again,  he  is  greeted  by  beautiful 
scenery  and  vast  stretches  of  orange  groves  on  every 
hand.  In  this  vicinity  the  orange  attains  as  great  propor- 
tions as  anywhere  in  the  State.  Highlands  is,  in  every 
sense  of  the  word,  a  picturesque  little  town,  and  the 
people  are  ever  busy  in  a  matter  of  fact  kind  of  way,  which 
denotes  a  sureness  of  the  future  and  contentment  with  the 
past. 


398 

Tlic  population  of  East  and  West  Highlands  is  about 
1,000,  and  constantly  increasing.  'J  he  people  are  filled  with 
the  genuine  Southern  California  spirit  of  enterprise,  in- 
dustry and  hope.  In  and  near  this  place  are  1,700  acres  of 
oranges  and  185  acres  of  lemons.  There  are  four  good 
schools  in  Highlands  and  two  churches,  with  the  needful 
stores  to  make  a  self-dcpendcnt  town. 

The  next  station, 

MENTONE, 

situated  at  the  extreme  point  of  the  smaller  elipse  of 
the  Kite-Shaped  Track ;  it  is  the  pivotal  point  of  our 
journey.  It  is  situated  in  orange  groves,  and  has  out- 
looks over  beautiful  scenes  of  mountains,  foothills  and  val- 
leys, with  thriving  groves  in  ever\'  direction.  Mentone  has 
a  fine  hotel,  several  stores,  and  a  post  office,  and  is  a  rapidly 
growing  little  town.  William  Winter,  the  author,  and  the 
celebrated  actor,  Richard  Mansfield,  have  homes  at  Mentone. 

After  leaving  Mentone  the  journey  continues  first  south- 
ward, and  then  gradually  more  and  more  westward,  de- 
scribing a  part  of  the  smaller  loop  of  the  Kite-Shaped  track. 

Three  miles  further  along  and  the  beautiful  and  pros- 
perous town  of 

REDLANDS: 

Population,  6,000.  Elevation,  1,.352  feet.  To 
Los  Angeles,  66  miles.  To  San  Francisco,  548 
miles.     To  Chicago,   2,213  miles. 

Is  reached — Redlands,  the  aggressive  and  progressive, 
known  far  and  wide  for  the  astonishing  growth  it  has 
made  since  it  was  begun,  only  seventeen  years  ago.  This 
little  giant  of  the  citrus  region  bids  fair  to  rival  some  of 
our  larger  cities  in  a  few  years. 

This  beautiful  city  was  chosen  by  Governor  Gage  as 
the    most    appropriate    place    where    President    McKinley 


399 

should  receive  his  first  impressions  of  California  on  the 
occasion  of  his  visit  to  the  Pacific  coast  in  May,  1901,  and 
where  he  and  his  distinguished  party  should  be  officially 
welcomed  to  the  State. 

The  streets  in  the  business  part  of  the  city  have  been 
paved  with  vitrified  brick,  and  excellent  cement  sidewalks 
provided.  The  streets  are  provided  with  shade  trees — pep- 
pers, palms,  olives,  grevillias,  eucalyptus  and  other  varie- 
ties of  a  semi-tropic  character.  The  city  presents  a  hand- 
some appearance,  and  is  a  desirable  spot  for  a  home. 


^mllit^  ISpiVb 


The  mountains  close  in  upon  the  city  on  the  north,  east 
and  south ;  on  the  west  the  valleys  lie  open  to  the  sea, 
a  distance  of  about  eighty  miles.  The  mountain  ridge  to 
the  north  and  Ciist  averages  about  5,000  feet  in  height,  with 
San  Antonio  10,000  feet;  San  Bernardino,  11,800  feet; 
San  Gorgonio,  over  12,000  feet,  and  far  off  in  the  southeast 
the  majestic  San  Jacinto  rises  11,000  feet.  The  business 
section  of  Redlands  is  i,,350  feet  above  sea  level,  many  of 
the  finer  residences  and  newer  orange  groves  are  along  the 
foothills,  at  an  average  elevation  of   1,600  feet,  while  the 


400 

famuiis  Canyon  Crest  Park,  "Smiley  Heights,"  is  up  about 
1,750  feet. 

With  one  exception  Redlands  is  tlie  castermost  city  of 
California,  and  its  distance  from  the  coast  gives  it  a  rela- 
tively dry  climate,  while  the  protection  of  the  encircling 
mountains  gives  it  that  peculiar  immunity  from  frosts  that 
is  of  such  prime  importance  to  the  orange  grower,  as  well 
as  to  those  in  search  of  a  climate  where  an  outdoor  life 
can  be  led  the  year  round.  The  annual  rainfall  averages 
about  twelve  inches.  The  average  temperature  of  the 
"winkr"  days  is  70°  and  of  the  nights  40°;  in  summer  the 
temperature  occasionally  gets  over  100°  in  the  middle  of 
the  day,  but  the  oppressive  humidity  of  the  Eastern  "hot 
spell"  is  entirely  absent,  and  early  every  afternoon  the 
cool  breeze  comes  in,  reducing  the  night  temperature  to  an 
average  of  56°. 

The  land  available  for  fruit  culture  in  the  city's  area  of 
17/^  square  miles  is  rapidly  being  set  out  to  oranges,  grape- 
fruit and  lemons ;  and  the  future  growth  of  Redlands  will 
probably  continue  to  be  as  a  city  of  homes  and  orange 
groves.  The  first  car  of  oranges  was  shipped  from  Red- 
lands  in  January,  1885 ;  the  total  shipment  for  the  season  of 
1901-1902  exceeded  2,500  cars,  or  over  three  quarters  of 
a  million  boxes.  The  annual  shipments  will  continue  to 
increase  as  the  young  groves  come  into  bearing,  and  the 
older  trees  reach  full  growth.  The  oranges  are  shipped 
East  by  a  dozen  different  packing  houses. 

The  man  with  a  moderate  capital  will  find  at  Redlands 
opportunity  to  buy  at  from  $500  to  $1,500  an  acre,  bearing 
orange  groves,  ten  acres  of  which  will  support  him  com- 
fortably through  life.  The  best  groves  yield  a  gross  return 
of  as  high  as  $300  to  $400  an  acre  to  the  grower.  Fruits 
and  vegetables  of  every  kind  may  be  grown  on  one's  own 
ground    for    private    use.      Peaches,    apricots,    olives    and 


401 

almonds  are  grown,  although  in  Redlands  security  from 
frosts  makes  the  orange  the  most  profitable  product. 

The  water  supply  from  Bear  Valley  Dam,  constructed  by 
Frank  E.  Brown,  a  wonder  of  engineering  skill,  is  ordinarily 
more  than  sufficient  to  meet  the  demands,  and  is  supple- 
mented by  the  supply  from  the  many  private  and  corpora- 
tion pumping  plants. 

Redlands  has  eleven  churches,  with  2,000  members,  and 
a  sixty  thousand  dollar  public  library,  which  with  the 
surrounding  park  was  the  gift  of  Mr.  A.  K.  Smiley.     The 


library  contains  over  6,000  volumes,  and  has  over  2,000 
regular  readers.  The  Y.  M.  C.  A.  owns  a  spacious  building. 
The  schools  of  Redlands  compare  favorably  with  those  of 
any  city  east  or  west,  and  maintain  a  very  high  standard  of 
excellence.  There  are  eighteen  secret  societies,  several 
social,  literary  and  musical  clubs,  prominent  among  which 
are  the  Contemporary  Club,  the  Spinet  and  the  Fortnightly. 
An  attractive  country  club  house  and  eighteen-hole  golf 
h'nks  have  just  been  completed  on  the  Heights,  overlooking 
I  lie  entire  valley.  The  recently  organized  board  of  trade 
has  about  300  members,  and  maintains  a  bureau  of  informa- 
tion and   reading  room,   where  visitors  are  cordially  wel- 


402 

corned.  'J'licrc  arc  tlircc  banks,  a  daily  newspaper,  The 
Pads,  and  two  weekly  sheets,  77k?  Citograph  and  the 
RcviciiK 

Tlierc  is  an  anniscnient  hall  on  the  grounds,  where  a 
bowling  alley,  billiard  and  pool  tables,  shuffle  boards  and 
other  indoor  amusements  are  provided.  Croquet  grounds, 
children's  play  ground,  and  "clock  golf"  green,  are  located 
on  the  premises.  Electric  cars  run  at  frequent  intervals 
from  the  Casa  Loma  through  the  city  to  the  Country  Club 
and  Canyon  Crest  Park. 

The  Baker  House,  opposite  the  post  office,  furnishes 
good  accommodations  at  moderate  prices,  and  there  are  a 
number  of  first-class  boarding  houses.  Redlands  has  ample 
railway  facilities  in  the  many  trains  of  the  Southern  Pacific 
and  Santa  Fe  companies.  The  new  Salt  Lake  Railroad 
will  pass  directly  through  Redlands,  making  it  the  first 
stop  of  any  importance  in  California.  The  Redlands  Street 
Railway  Company  operates  about  eight  miles  of  electric 
car  service  between  the  Casa  Loma,  Terracina  and  the 
Country  Club.  The  San  Bernardino  Valley  Traction  Com- 
pany is  rapidly  completing  an  electric  road  between  all 
principal  towns  in  the  vicinity,  and  will  connect  with  the 
Redlands  electric  line,  making  a  scenic  route  around  the 
valley. 

Urbita  Springs,  a  pleasure  park  and  health  resort,  is 
located  on  the  main  line  of  this  road,  about  nine  miles 
from  Redlands.  Here  one  can  enjoy  a  plunge  in  the  fine 
large  swimming  pool,  or  take  sulphur  water  or  mud  baths 
under  the  direction  of  a  physician.  These  waters  have  a 
reputation  for  the  cure  of  rheumatism  and  kindred  aflFec- 
tions. 

Redlands  is  the  starting  point  for  many  enjoyable  coach- 
ing trips  and  horseback  rides  to  near-by  points  of  interest 
in  the  mountains  and  canvons.     The  Edison  Electric  Co. 


403 

furnishes  the  electricity  for  light  and  power  to  Redlands 
and  neighboring  cities,  having  two  large  water  power  plants 
in  Mill  Creek  Canyon  and  an  auxiliary  steam  plant  in 
Redlands,  with  a  total  capacity  of  over  2,000  horse  power. 
The  company  has  a  large  generating  plant  in  Santa  Ana 
Canyon  that  furnishes  electricity  to  Los  Angeles  and  Pasa- 
dena, eighty  miles  away. 

One  of  the  chief  points  of  interest  to  travelers  is  Canyon 
Crest  Park,  originally  the  winter  home  of  Messrs.  Albert  K. 
Smiley  and  Alfred  H.  Smiley,  of  Mohonk  fame.     The  park 


.f^^J^ 


contains  200  acres  of  rolling  hills,  kept  in  the  most  perfect 
state  of  cultivation,  with  over  1,000  varieties  of  trees  and 
shrubs,  and  a  constantly  blossoming  wealth  of  semi-tropical 
flowers  of  infinite  variety,  and  over  five  miles  of  fine  roads 
that  are  free  to  the  public. 

Among  the  points  of  interest  in  and  around  Redlands 
may  be  named  the  following :  Live  Oak  Canyon,  four 
miles;  Tremont  Park,  eight  miles;  Edison  Electric  Co., 
Santa  Ana  Canyon ;  Edison  Electric  Co.,  Mill  Creek  Can- 
yon;  Santa  Ana  Canyon,  Mill  Creek  Canyon   (Thurman's), 


404 

Oak  GIcii  F'ark,  via  Yucaipe  Valley,  Fredalba  Park, 
Squirrel  Inn,  via  Fredalba  Park,  Urbita  Hot  Springs,  Bear 
Valley,  via  trail,  BlufF  Lake,  Wilshire  Canyon,  Seven 
Oaks,  Skinner's  Mountain  Home,  Waterman  Canyon,  City 
Creek  Canyon. 

Leaving  Redlands,  continuing  our  journey  on  the  Kite- 
Shaped  Track,  and  passing  San  Bernardino, 

Colton  is  reached,  which  has  already  been  fully  described. 
We  are  now  returning  to  Los  Angeles  on  the  large  loop. 

East  Riverside  is  reached,  where  nearly  2,000  acres  are 
already  planted  to  oranges,  lemons  and  other  fruits,  and  the 
East  Riverside  Irrigation  District  has  been  organized  and 
provision  made  for  an  ample  supply  of  water  for  irrigating 
land  between  the  Gage  canal  and  the  foothills.  This  district 
embraces  over  3,000  acres  of  choice  land  of  exceptional 
richness  and  especially  adapted  to  the  culture  of  citrus 
fruits. 

A  public  school  building,  costing  in  the  neighborhood 
of  $15,000,  and  many  beautiful  homes,  containing  hundreds 
of  intellectual  and  prosperous  people,  occupy  what  was  only 
a  few  years  ago  an  arid  plain. 

Three  miles  further  and 

RIVERSIDE: 

Population,  7,973.  Elevation,  S75  feet.  S.  P.  Sur- 
vey. To  Los  Angeles,  66  miles.  To  Chicago,  2,215 
miles.     To  San  Francisco,  550  miles. 

presents  to  our  gaze  her  world-famed  orange  and  lemon 
groves,  and  interesting  Magnolia  and  Victoria  avenues. 
The  fame  of  these  magnificent  drives  has  not  been  exag- 
gerated. Twenty  miles  of  magnolia,  pepper,  palms,  eucalyp- 
tus and  grevilleas,  flanked  by  ten  thousand  acres  of  thriving 
orange  groves  stretch  before  us.  It  has  been  called  a 
"garden  plat  ten  miles  long."  Here  are  eucalyptus  trees 
sixty  feet  high,  almond  trees  in  bloom,  peaches,  pears,  apri- 


405 

cots,  figs,  etc.,  and  a  visit  to  Southern  California  would  be 
incomplete  without  a  drive  down  this  incomparable  avenue. 
When  the  tourist  learns  that  a  little  more  than  thirty  years 
ago  Riverside  was  but  an  arid,  dreary  waste  covered  with 
cacti  and  brush,  the  home  of  the  coyote  and  jack  rabbit,  he 
begins  to  realize,  if  not  before,  something  of  the  wonders 
that  can  be  accomplished  in  Southern  California  by  well- 
directed  efforts  in  irrigation,  for  Riverside  is  the  child  of 
irrigation. 


The  city  of  Riverside  is  the  center  of  a  valley  irregular 
in  shape,  over  twenty  miles  in  length  and  from  twelve  to 
eighteen  in  width.  This  valley  is  broken  at  intervals  by 
hills  that  only  add  to  the  variety  and  beauty  of  the  land- 
scape, and  is  hemmed  in  on  every  side  by  mountain  ranges. 
There  are  a  number  of  points  from  which  you  can  see  at 
the  same  time  the  highest  mountains  in  Southern  Cali- 
fornia :  San  Gorgonio,  San  Bernardino,  the  Cucamonga 
peaks,  Santa  Ana  and  San  Jacinto. 

In  the  canyons  and  in  the  forests  on  the  summits  of  the 
mountain  ranges  snow  always  lies  deep  on  the  ground,  but 
it  is  not  visible  from  the  valleys.  When,  however,  the  win- 
ter rains  fall  the  mountains  are  crowned  with  white  and 
sometimes  their  fleecy  mantles  extend  down  to  the  foothills. 


4o6 

I  lie  grandeur  of  Riverside  scenery  lies  in  its  extent  and 
variety.  It  is  not  confined  to  a  single  landscape  or  to  a 
single  peak  of  groat  beauty.  The  valley  is  circled  by  a  hun- 
dred miles  of  mountains,  each  one  possessing  characteristics 
of  its  own  and  each  one  changing  with  every  dififercnt  view 
point. 

Bv  climbing  any  one  of  the  numerous  hills  that  rise  like 
watch  towers  through  the  valley  you  may  gaze  upon  a 
scene  of  surpassing  lovliness.  It  is  covered  with  orange 
groves.  It  is  clothed  with  prosperous  homes.  If  it  is 
winter  the  orange,  peerless  among  fruit  trees,  loaded 
with  its  golden  crop,  will  be  a  constant  source  of 
wonderment  and  pleasure.  Here  and  there  in  the  orchards 
the  orange  pickers  may  be  seen  at  work.  In  some  places 
you  will  notice  that  the  rows  of  trees  are  separated  by  sil- 
ver threads  showing  that  these  groves  are  undergoing  their 
monthly  irrigation.  An  orange  tree  is  like  a  horse :  to 
thrive  well  it  must  be  -veil  watered,  well  fed  and  well 
cared  for. 

Riverside  proper  is  traversed  in  every  direction  by  two 
hundred  miles  of  streets  and  avenues,  and  if  you  include 
the  valley  of  which  it  is  the  center  you  may  double  the 
mileage.  These  roads  are,  for  the  most  part,  well  con- 
structed and  well  kept  up.  There  are  very  few  steep  grades 
and,  as  the  annual  rainfall  averages  less  than  seven  inches, 
Riverside  is  a  paradise  for  bicyclists.  For  the  same  reason 
it  is  an  unusually  good  center  for  those  who  enjoy  the 
fascinating  automobile.  Not  to  mention  the  many  short 
rides,  there  are  a  number  of  fine  runs  of  from  twenty  to 
sixty  miles  over  good  roads  and  passing  through  interesting 
scenery. 

The  city  is  pre-eminent  by  reason  of  its  beautiful  drives. 
in  addition  to  Magnolia  and  Victoria  avenues,  its  Haward- 
cn  drive  along  the  foothills  south  of  the  city  and  overlook- 


407 

ing  the  splendid  groves  and  fine  residences  of  Arlington 
Heights;  its  Chase's  drive,  are  all  unsurpassed  for  the  va- 
riety, extent  and  grandeur  of  their  panoramic  views. 

Riverside  has  long  been  noted  for  its  freedom  from  sa- 
loons, its  excellent  schools,  its  numerous  churches  and  the 
general  intelligence,  culture  and  high  moral  tone  of  its 
people.  These  things,  taken  with  its  climatic  conditions, 
its  large  area  of.  fertile  land,  its  abundant  supply  for  all 
purposes  of  exceptionally  good  water  and  its  beautiful  scen- 
ery make  it  attractive  both  to  travelers  and  intending  set- 
tlers. Nevertheless,  until  about  four  years  ago  its  growth, 
though  steady,  was  slow.  Since  that  time,  however,  its 
progress  in  every  direction  has  been  very  marked  and  some- 
what remarkable.  The  orange  groves  have  more  than  doub- 
led, unimproved  lands  and  building  sites  have  increased  in 
value  from  fifty  to  a  hundred  per  cent,  and  even  more.  New 
buildings  have  risen  as  if  by  magic  in  every  direction.  The 
city  has  reason  to  feel  proud  of  its  Carnegie  library,  its  high 
school  building  and  its  court  house,  now  in  process  of  erec- 
tion. 

Among  the  many  improvements  two  are  worthy  of  more 
ihan  passing  notice.  The  Sherman  Institute,  named  after 
Congressman  Sherman  of  New  York,  chairman  of  the  Com- 
mittee on  Indian  Affairs,  is  one  of  the  great  schools  in  the 
United  States  for  the  education  of  the  Indian.  It  occupies 
an  ideal  location  fronting  on  Magnolia  avenue  and  adjoin- 
ing the  beautiful  Chemawa  Park.  Here  in  expensive  build- 
ings erected  by  the  federal  government  are  four  hundred 
young  people,  mostly  Mission  Indians. 

It  was  founded  July  i8th,  1901,  as  an  Indian  Industrial 
School.  The  first  appropriation  for  land  and  construction 
purposes  was  $235,000,  and  the  plans  include  designs  for 
twelve  buildings  of  brick  in  the  mission  style  of  archi- 
tecture. 


4o8 

Another  notable  feature  in  tlie  recent  development  of 
Riverside  is  the  new  Glenwood  hotel.  The  successful  com- 
pletion of  this  unique  and  magnificent  structure  is  due  to 
the  enterprise  and  energy  of  Frank  A.  Miller,  backed  by 
tlie  friendship  and  by  the  capital  of  H.  E.  Huntington  of 
Southern  Pacific  fame.  There  are  many  larger  hotels, 
many  more  costly,  many  that  in  some  special  feature  ex- 
cel this  one;  but  take  it  all  in  all  there  is  not  another  like  it 
in  all  the  land,  and  there  is  not  one  so  pervaded  by  the 
home-like  atmosphere  dear  to  many  a  pilgrim.  Mr.  Miller 
has  been  a  hotel  man  from  boyhood.  He  built  and  owned 
the  oldest  hotel  in  Riverside  and  his  personality  made  it  a 
success.  He  developed  it  along  original  lines  and  the  quaint 
old  structure  known  as  the  Glenwood  tavern  was  sought 
year  by  year  by  a  host  of  travelers  who  had  come  to  love 
it  as  a  home.  The  growing  demands  of  the  place  and  the 
increasing  volume  of  travel  made  more  extensive  and  more 
pretentious  accommodations  a  necessity. 

The  present  building  meets  this  necessity  and  is  the  con- 
summation of  a  long-cherished  dream.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Mil- 
ler have  put  heart  and  brain  into  it.  Everywhere  within 
and  about  it  are  evidences  of  their  skill  and  taste.  They 
have  dared  to  be  original  and  that  originality  makes  the 
unique  charm  of  this  great  hotel. .  The  mission  idea  is 
wrought  out  through  all  the  structure  even  to  the  finishing 
hardware.  There  is  not  a  door  knob  in  all  the  building. 
Every  door  is  opened  by  an  old-fashioned  iron  latch.  Mis- 
sion bells  hang  from  numerous  arches.  Guests  are  wel- 
comed and  meals  are  announced  by  sweet  chimes.  Even 
the  electric  lights,  never  dreamed  of  by  the  mission  fathers, 
shine  from  bell-shaped  fixtures. 

It  was  a  bit  of  sentiment  on  the  part  of  Mr.  Miller  in  sav- 
ing the  old  adobe  as  a  portion  of  the  New  Glenwood,  but  it 
was  a  most  worthy  one  and  will   do  much  to  attract  to 


409 

Riverside  and  the  new  hotel,  the  traveling  public.  Here 
will  be  seen  the  contrast  between  the  past  century  and 
the  coming  one. 

The  attractive  roof  of  the  old  adobe  is  not  the  modern 
steel  tile,  painted  red,  nor  is  it  the  modern  made  earthern 
brick  tile,  but  it  is  the  real  thing — tiles  under  which  thou- 
sands of  worshipers  have  gathered  to  hear  the  gospel  of 
peace  preached  by  the  early  fathers. 

A  few  facts  about  Riverside  that  will  stand  out  in  your 
memory  are  these:  It  was  located  in  1871.  The  area  with- 
in the  corporate  limits  of  the  city  is  fifty-six  square  miles 
and  the  colony  or  district  comprises  a  territory  almost 
twice  as  large. 

There  are  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles  of  graded  streets 
within  the  city  limits,  and  the  mileage  of  the  city  is  nearly 
double  that.  Eleven  miles  of  the  city  streets  are  paved  with 
asphalt  and  macadam.  The  natural  roads  are  the  finest  in 
all  the  world — never  muddy  and  very  little  dust. 

A  fine  electric  system  makes  every  portion  of  the  extensive 
grounds  of  the  city  easily  accessible. 

Riverside's  irrigation  systems  are  among  the  very  finest  in 
arid  America.  The  purity  and  amplitude  of  her  domestic 
water  supply  are  not  excelled  anywhere. 

In  the  city  park  may  be  seen  the  largest  and  finest  col- 
lection of  cacti  in  America,  if  not  in  the  world.  This  is 
the  testimony  of  experts  and  travelers. 

Riverside  is  the  richest  city  in  the  world,  has  the  largest 
per  capita  income.  Yet  it  has  no  millionaires  and  no  paup- 
ers. There  is  an  even  and  equitable  distribution  of  wealth 
naturally  incident  to  the  character  of  the  industries  in  which 
the  people  are  engaged,  resulting  in  almost  ideal  social  con- 
ditions. 

In  respect  of  health  and  pleasure,  Riverside  stands  pre- 
eminent.    It  is  a  place  where  one  can  literally  live  out  of 


4^0 

doors.  Ilie  altiUuJc  is  ideal,  ranging  from  850  to  1,000  feet. 
The  tcmpcratnrc  is  equable,  air  dry,  rainfall  minimum,  most 
s-unsliinc — these  are  government  records.  Such  conditions 
make  the  place  a  paradise  for  invalids  and  sportsmen.  There 
are  half  a  dozen  or  more  golf  clubs,  several  lawn  tennis 
clubs,  lacrosse  clubs,  ball  clubs,  polo  clubs,  cricket  clubs, 
gun  clubs,  wheeling  clubs,  all  occupying  foremost  rank  in 
the  State.  The  Riverside  Country  Club  has  a  beautiful 
home  of  its  own ;  also  the  Casa  Blanca  Lawn  Tennis  Club. 
The  Rubidou.x  Club,  a  gentlemen's  social  organization,  has 
elegant  permanent  quarters.  The  Riverside  wheelmen  own 
a  fine  athletic  park.  The  Woman's  Club  ranks  high  among 
the  organizations  of  its  kind.  Every  phase  of  social  and 
physical  life  here  reaches  the  highest  development.  The 
general  conditions  are  such  as  to  produce  the  best  type  of 
all  round  manhood  and  womanhood,  a  fact  fully  attested  by 
the  moral  and  physical  standard  of  the  community. 

The  suburbs  of  Riverside  are  East  Riverside,  already 
described,  West  Riverside  and  Arlington  Heights.  Both  of 
these  latter  places  partake  of  the  general  character  of  the 
mother  city,  and  are  residence  and  orange-growing  sec- 
tions, picturesquely  located.  Our  railroad  runs  through  and 
along  the  Arlington  lands  for  six  miles,  and  there  are  three 
stations  within  the  tract  on  the  Santa  Fe  line. 

Leaving  Riverside  the  next  town  of  importance  is 

CORONA : 

Population,  2,000.  Elevation,  697  feet.  U.  S.  Geo- 
logical Survey.  To  Riverside,  15  miles.  To  Los 
Angeles,  55  miles.     To  Chicago,  2,229  miles. 

This  town  was  originally  called  South  Riverside,  but  a 
few  years  ago  the  writer  of  this  handbook  suggested  the 
name  Corona  which  the  city  afterwards  adopted.  It  is  the 
center  of  some  15,000  acres  of  smooth,  but  gently  sloping 
mesa,  which  is  sheltered  from  the  fogs  of  the  ocean  by  the 


411 

Santa  Ana  mountains.  Corona  is  upon  the  same  side  of  the 
great  San  Bernardino  Valley  as  are  Riverside  and  Redlands, 
the  largest  and  most  successful  orange-growing  centres  in 
existence.  Fifteen  years  ago  the  land  laid  dormant  and 
useless  as  it  had  lain  for  ages,  except  for  its  regular  winter 
growth  of  grass  and  flowers,  upon  which  occasional  bands 
of  sheep  gained  temporary  sustenance.  Now  orange  and 
lemon-growing  have  made  necessary  the  building  of  a  most 
creditable  business  section,  where  also  are  located  fine 
school  buildings,  churches,  banks,  and  other  edifices  de- 
manded  in   a  thriving   modern   community. 

It  is  but  fifteen  years  since  Corona  was  laid  out  for  set- 
tlement. The  value  of  the  location  induced  many  experi- 
enced orange-growers  to  purchase  and  plant,  and  as  a  re- 
sult the  young  colonj'  avoided  some  of  the  mistakes  com- 
mon to  the  inexperienced,  and  within  a  few  years  over 
3,500  acres  were  planted  to  oranges  and  lemons,  beside  a 
considerable  acreage  in  olives,  alfalfa,  and  other  things 
adapted  to  the  country.  These  orchards  are  now  reaching 
maturity,  and  the  production  of  citrus  fruits,  which  has 
already  reached  seven  hundred  car-loads  in  a  single  season, 
is  certain  to  double  within  a  year  or  so  by  reason  of  the  in- 
creasing age  of  the  trees,  and  the  more  liberal  use  of  irri- 
gating water  made  possible  by  recent  water  developments, 
in  which  over  $1,800,000  have  been  spent. 

Corona  has  a  good  public  library  with  about  1,150  vol- 
umes. Miss  Grace  L.  Taber,  librarian.  The  city  is  incor- 
porated and  governed  by  a  board  of  five  trustees.  It  has 
several  fine  packing  houses,  and  a  large  manufactory  of 
sewer  and  water  pipe,  fire  brick,  etc.  There  are  lodges  of 
Masons,  Fraternal  Brotherhood,  Fraternal  Aid  Association, 
Woodmen  of  the  World,  Modern  Woodmen,  A.  O.  U.  W., 
Sons  of  Veterans,  and  G.  A.  R.  The  churches  are  Con- 
gregational, Christian,  Baptist,  Methodist,  Episcopal,  Catho- 


412 

lie,  and  Clirislian  Science.  Hotel,  The  Corona;  rates, 
$1.50  per  day. 

Glen  Ivy  Resort. —  This  resort,  nine  miles  from  Corona, 
and  at  an  elevation  of  1,300  feet,  is  located  at  the  entrance 
to  Cold  Water  Canyon,  the  largest  canyon  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Coast  Range  of  mountains.  The  canyon  is  a 
lovely  place  and  is  visited  by  hundreds  of  picnic  parties 
every  year,  both  in  the  summer  and  winter.  Glen  Ivy  is 
very  popular  with  Los  Angeles  business  men  who  like  to 
get  away  for  a  rest  and  a  few  days  shooting,  as  rabbits, 
quail  and  doves  abound  in  the  vicinity.  There  is  a  fine 
large  bath  house  containing  dressing  rooms  and  large  plunge 
into  which  flows  a  continuous  stream  of  six  inches  of  hot 
sulphur  water.  The  hotel  has  accommodations  for  a  large 
number  of  guests  as  there  are  a  number  of  fine  cottages 
erected  on  the  grounds.  This  is  not  a  sanitarium  and  in- 
valids are  not  wanted. 

Crary,  four  miles  further  along. 

Yorba,  another  twelve  miles, 

Olive,  three  miles  still  nearer  to  Los  Angeles,  are  all 
shipping  points  for  local  produce,  and  where  alfalfa  and 
grain  are  grown  in  large  quantities.  Olive  has  an  extensive 
flouring-mill. 

Following  the  windings  of  the  Santa  Ana  River, 

Orange  is  reached,  the  junction  point  of  the  Surf  Line. 

Atiaheim  follows.  It  is  described  in  another  part  of  this 
book. 

Fullcrton. — Three  miles  from  Anaheim ;  is  the  young- 
est town  in  Orange  County.  The  land  surrounding  the 
town  is  very  fertile,  and  oranges,  lemons,  walnuts,  olives, 
deciduous  fruits  and  vegetables  are  raised  on  a  large  scale. 
The  town  of  Fullerton,  although  only  ten  years  old,  has 
had  such  a  remarkable  growth  that  it  is  frequently  spoken 
of  as  the  metropolis   of  the   northern  portion   of  Orange 


413 

County.  Being  -the  shipping  point  and  business  center  of 
the  rich  and  well-cultivated  districts  of  Placentia,  La  Ha- 
bra  and  Orangethorpe,  it  is  steadily  growing  and  increasing 
its  business.  This  is  shown  by  the  fact  that  when  the  Santa 
Fe  Railway  officials  recently  offered  prizes  to  the  agents  of 
their  whole  system  for  the  stations  showing  the  greatest 
increase  in  business  during  the  first  six  months  of  the  year, 
as  compared  with  the  corresponding  period  of  the  previous 
year,  Fullerton,  although  the  youngest  competitor  on  the 
list,  was  awarded  fifth  prize.  Near  Fullerton  are  a  number 
of  productive  oil  wells  owned  by  the  Southern  California 
Railway  and  others. 

La  Miranda. — Six  miles  from  Fullerton;  has  a  handsome 
depot  building,  in  the  Mission  style  of  architecture.  Here 
several  Eastern  gentlemen  of  wealth  and  culture  have  pur- 
chased large  tracts  of  land,  which  they  are  improving  in 
a  systematic  manner,  with  extensive  plantations  of  olives, 
lemons,  oranges  and  other  trees,  and  attractive  homes  sur- 
rounded by  beautiful  grounds.  One  of  these,  the  Winder- 
mere ranch,  is  a  striking  example  of  the  benefits  of  irriga- 
tion. When  the  owner  bought  this  land — about  2,400  acres — 
there  was  no  water  on  it,  nor  did  there  seem  to  be  any  water 
available.  It  had  been  used  as  sheep  ranch  for  over  lob 
years,  with  occasional  crops  of  grain.  The  owner  pros- 
pected for  artesian  water,  and  found  it  in  abundance,  and 
some  five  years  ago  started  tree  planting  on  it.  There  are 
now  miles  of  shade  trees  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  high, 
and  lemon  orchards,  each  tree  of  which  will  yield  two  boxes 
of  lemons  a  year.  From  an  Eastern  standpoint  the  general 
appearance  of  the  ranch  would  indicate  a  tree  growtlf  of 
at  least  twenty  years  although  the  trees  had  been  out  of 
the  nursery  only  a  little  over  six  years. 

Santa  Fe  Springs. — It  is  a  pleasant  ride,  through  fields  of 
waving  green  and  vineyards,  down  the  three-quarter  stretch 


4M 

from  Fnllcrlon,  in  Oranj;jc  County,  past  Norlham,  to  Santa 
Fc  Springs,  in  Los  Angeles  County,  a  pleasure  resort  and 
sanitarium.  Tlie  one  thing  more  than  another  that  has  made 
Santa  Fc  Springs  famous,  not  only  in  California,  but 
throughout  Arizona  and  the  northern  Coast  States,  is  its 
sulphur  springs.  People  from  almost  every  locality  in  the 
State  and  from  almost  every  State  in  the  Union  have  visited 
these  springs,  until  its  reputation  now  rivals  that  of  the 
Arkansas  Hot  Springs  or  the  famous  Blue  Lick  waters  of 
Kentucky.  In  addition  to  the  baths,  the  drinking  water 
will,  it  is  claimed,  cure  most  cases  of  dyspepsia,  catarrh  and 
many  diseases  of  the  kidneys,  skin,  blood  and  liver,  and  its 
medicinal  qualities  are  equal  to  those  of  any  of  the  above 
mentioned  health  resorts. 

Passing  from  Santa  Fe  Springs  one  notes  Whittier, 
beautifully  located  on  the  slopes  of  the  Puente  Hills  (else- 
where described.) 

Los  Nietos  lies  twelve  miles  from  Los  Angeles  and  con- 
sists mainly  of  farming  country. 

Ten  miles  from  Los  Angeles. 

Rivera  is  encountered,  a  productive  walnut  section  with 
orchard  chasing  orchard,  of  regal  massive  trees.  There 
are  also  some  citrus  and  deciduous  fruits  and  a  recent  an- 
nual shipment,  on  record,  mentions  fifty  car-loads  of  or- 
anges. The  soil  is  rich  and  the  site  is  one  of  the  most 
easily  developed. 

The  walnut  shipments  from  Rivera  exceed  those  of  any 
other  section  in  Southern  California,  the  peculiar  soil  of 
this  region  being  especially  adapted  fof  the  successful  grow- 
ing* of  walnuts. 

Rivera  has  good  schools,  churches  and  stores  and  is 
a  thriving  little  town. 

And  now,  but  three  miles  from  Los  Angeles  we  come  to 

Manhattan. — This  little  village  is  of  recent  birth  and  the 


415 

population,  as  yet,  small,  but  with  two  railway  lines,  con- 
necting it  with  Los  Angeles,  its  prospects  are  equal  to  those 
of  all  Southern  California  towns,  both  in  farming  and  hor- 
ticulture. 

Thus,  after  a  most  delightful  trip,  with  a  wonderful 
variety  of  scenery,  all  of  which  is  full  of  charm  and  inter- 
est, our  ride  over  the  famous  Kite  Shaped  Track  is  ended. 

Excursion  tickets  around  the  Kite  Shaped  Track,  in- 
cluding Pasadena,  Santa  Anita,  North  Pomona,  Claremont, 
Upland,  San  Bernardino,  Redlands,  Highlands,  Colton, 
Riverside,  Casa  Blanca,  Orange,  Anaheim,  Fullerton  and  La 
Miranda,  may  be  purchased  from  any  agent  along  the  line 
of  the  "Kite,"  good  returning  to  point  from  which  tickets 
are  purchased.  Limited  to  thirty  days  from  date  of  sale. 
and  allowing  stop  over  privileges  at  pleasure  within  limit 
of  tickets,  at  $4.10. 


CHAPTER    XXXIV. 

ON    THE    SUKK    LINE    (SANTA    FE)     FROM    LOS    ANGELES    TO    SAN 
DIEGO. 

The  famous  surf  line  on  the  Southern  California  Rail- 
way (Santa  Fe  route)  runs  from  Los  Angeles  to  National 
City,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  thirty-one  miles. 
Work  on  this  branch  of  the  Santa  Fe  System  was  first 
begun  as  early  as  1883,  but  was  not  carried  through  until 
in  August,  1888. 

In  the  cliarm  of  varied  and  manifold  views,  with  flowery 
and  beautiful  valleys,  interlaced  by  great  gorges,  fugitive 
canyons,  mountains  and  the  white-capped  azure  of  the  sea, 
this  line  has  no  equal  on  the  Western  Coast. 

After  leaving  Los  Angeles,  the  tourist  passes  through 
a  perfect  maze  of  rich  orchards  of  orange,  walnut,  prune, 
apple,  peach,  as  well  as  fertile  grain  fields,  and  low.  moist 
grazing  lands.  Station  after  station  presents  its  flowering 
or   fruit-bearing  trees   according  to   season. 

From  Los  Angeles  to  Orange  the  ride  has  already  been 
described  in  the  chapter  on  the  Kite-shaped  Track. 

Two  miles  from  Orange  Santa  Ana  is  reached. 


Weather-worn  Cliffs  on  the  Surf  Line. 


417 

Irvine,  forty-two  miles  from  Los  Angeles.  This  is  a 
town  still  in  embryo,  thinly  populated  and  mainly  de- 
voted to  stock  raising.  It  has  a  large  warehouse,  however, 
and  ships  considerable  grain.  Some  seasons  of  the  year 
this  section  is  beautiful,  with  sloping  green  hills,  where 
vast  herds  of  horses,  cattle  and  sheep  are  left  to  graze. 

Modjeska,  forty-six  miles,  on  the  road,  has  much  the 
same  character  as  Irvine.  It  was  named  after  the  great 
Polish  actress,  because  she  has  invested  in  a  large  ranch, 
near  the  station,  and  built  a  summer  home  in  a  charming 
nook  of  the  Santiago  Canyon.  Here  she  camps  several 
months  in  the  ^ear  in  true  American  fashion,  gives  tea 
parties,  rides  and  drives  to  the  beach,  and  rests  from  her 
arduous  work  on  the  stage.  She  loves  the  retirement,  but 
welcomes  her  friends  heartily,  and  extols  the  beauty  of  the 
climate,  which  has  drawn  many  health  and  home  seekers 
into   this  vicinity. 

The  next  settlement. 

El  Toro,  is  forty-seven  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  a  highly 
fertile  location,  and  one  of  the  most  prosperous  towns  of 
Orange  County.  It  lies  in  one  of  the  moist  belts,,  where 
irrigation  is  not  a  necessity  to  profuse  horticultural  growth. 
It  was  first  settled  in  1891  by  an  English  colony  of  about 
one  dozen  families,  who  were  induced  to  locate  there  by  a 
young  English  capitalist,  Dewitt  Whiting.  He  has  pur- 
chased eleven  thousand  acres  of  the  El  Toro  district,  which 
he  began  at  once  to  put  into  cultivation.  Another  large 
single  ranch  is  that  of  E.  D.  Cook,  consisting  of  one  thou- 
sand acres,  mainly  in  vineyards  and  farming  land.  There 
are  now  orchards  of  prunes,  apples  and  apricots  in  rich 
annual  bearing. 

El  Toro  is  entirely  without  frost  and  sheltered  from  the 
north  winds  by  the  Santa  Ana  range  of  mountains.  It 
lies   four   hundred   feet   above  the   sea,  but   its   winters   are 


4i8 

tempered  and  summers  are  cooled  by  the  proximity  of  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  which  lies  eight  miles  to  the  west.  Two 
stages  daily  meet  trains  at  El  Toro  to  carry  passengers 
to  the  seaside,  a  charming  drive  over  hills  and  through  a 
canyon  to  Laguna  Beach  and  Arch  Beach. 

One  may  be  accommodated  with  lodgings  at  a  little  hotel 
near  the  station.  The  settlement  is  still  immature  as  a 
commercial  center,  and  there  is  only  one  church  of  Presby- 
terian denomination,  and  two  or  three  stores.  The  moun- 
tain canyons  east  of  El  Toro  are  of  interest  to  hunters,  as 
they  abound  in  deer,  mountain  lions,  and  smaller  game.    At 

San  Juan  Capistrano,  about  fifty-eight  miles  from  Los 
Angeles,  one  passes  within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  famous 


old  Mission,  after  which  the  town  is  named.  It  was 
founded  by  Father  Junipero  Serra,  in  1776.  The  sad, 
weird  history  of  the  tragic  death  of  forty  people  in  this 
building  is  given  more  in  detail  in  the  chapter  on  the 
Missions.  Although  its  massive  walls  were  never  wholly 
rebuilt,  they  still  reveal  much  architectural  beauty,  and 
artists  gnd  a  profitable  pleasure  in  sketching  these  crumb- 
ling remains  of  one  of  the  historical  landmarks  of  Southern 
California's  pioneers. 

The  depot,  built  after  the  Mission  style,  was  opened  in 
the  fall   of   1894.     The   town   of   Capistrano   is   populated 


419 

largely  by  Spaniards  and  Mexicans,  between  two  or  three 
hundred  in  number.  Bull-fights  were  continued  as  an  en- 
tertaining sport,  with  all  their  barbaric  equipment,  until 
very  recently,  the  last  having  taken  place  in  1889.   ^ 

There  is  now  a  spirit  of  age  and  repose  about  Capis- 
trano,  perhaps  a  reflection  of  the  Mexican,  whose  life 
is  mainly  spent  in  loitering  about,  herding  sheep  and  im- 
bibing sunshine.  Still,  there  is  some  appearance  of  indus- 
try in  horticulture  and  stock-raising,  especially  in  horses, 
which  are  their  passion,  and  which  they  mount  and  treat 
like    Turks.      ]\'Iuch    corn    is    also    grown,    which    attains 


/^Jix/H^ 


^na.ht~l-^c^^  'n/4/"'^7i7^ 


■^^i,n,     T^/V/l'''^ 


the  mammoth  height  often  of  eighteen  feet.  Some  of  the 
olive  and  pear  trees  planted  by  the  thrifty  Franciscans  are 
still  bearing,  and  are  a  source  of  large  revenue.  There  is 
a  comfortable  and  well  conducted  hotel  at  Capistrano. 

Branching  out,  the  road  leads  directly  to 

San  Juan  by  the  Sea,  the  point  where  the  ocean  first 
reveals  itself.  It  is  a  dreary,  uninhabited,  quiet  site,  yet 
having  many  heroic  traditions  dating  back  over  a  century. 


420 


It  is  characterized  by  a  wide,  sandy  beach,  with  a  long 
reef  projecting  out  into  the  sea  on  the  north.  The  cliffs 
here  are  precipitous  and  imposing.  Within  a  few  hundred 
feet  rises  Dana's  point  to  the  height  of  nearly  three  hun- 
dred feet.  This  was  once  a  popular  trading  point  with  the 
Indians,  but  the  only  modern  improvements,  so  far,  are  a 
pavilion  for  day  excursionists  and  a  little  bath  house. 

A  drive  up  through  an  adjacent  valley  has  many  charms, 
and  lands  one  at  the  thermal  baths  of 

San  Juan  Hot  Springs. — To  the  tourist,  en  route  to  San 
Diego,  the  concentrated  palpable  beauty  of  the  surf  line 
begins  at  San  Juan.  The  serpentine  road  is  tantalizing  in 
its  serial  touches  of  the  ocean,  and  return  to  the  inland 
curves,  for  the  rippling  lights  on  the  waves,  on  a  clear 
day,  hold  the  eye  like  the  glow  of  a  magic  mirror.  There 
is  an  unnamable  something  about  the  Pacific  shore  that 
soothes  and  pacifies  and  expresses  the  full  quality  of  its 
name.  It  steals  like  a  silent  influence  over  the  Land  of  the 
Sun  Down  Sea  and  rejuvenates  the  energies  wasted  in 
the  friction  of  the  ambitious  industrial  world.  From  the 
azure  singing  dawn  to  the  rambling  rose  and  gold  of  sun- 


421 

set  it  reaches  out  to  caress,  mother  and  revive  the  warm 
earth.  Hence  the  fame  of  the  scenic  surf  hue,  with  its 
salt  sea  atmosphere,  its  occasional  ghmpses  of  fair,  if  not 
fairy  isles  of  Catalina  and  Clemente,  and  its  transit  through 
fertile,  aromatic  valleys  and  over  lofty  foothills. 

Six  miles  beyond  San  Juan  lies 

Occansidc,  an  ambitious  little  town  with  several  hotels, 
a  lively  beach  and  a  wharf.  There  is  also  a  flouring  mill 
and  a  planing  mill.  It  is  built  upon  a  high  bluff,  and  has 
well  graded  roads  that  afford  attractive  drives  into  the 
surrounding  valleys.  Of  chief  interest  is  the  four  mile 
ride  to  San  Luis  Rey  Mission.  In  Oceanside  there  are 
well  filled  stables,  and  various  trades  are  represented. 

The  hotel  managed  by  M.  Pieper  is  comfortable  and 
home-like.    Rates  $2.50  and  upwards  per  day. 

From  Oceanside  a  branch  line,  twenty-two  miles  long, 
reaches  out  to 

Escondido,  100  miles  from  Los  Angeles.  This  branch 
passes  through  the  San  Marcos  and  Escondido  Valleys. 
The  name  Escondido  signifies  "the  hidden  one."  The  ride 
from  Oceanside  is  most  enjoyable,  the  land  adjoining  the 
railway  being  low  rolling  mesa,  and  though  only  a  part  is 
under  cultivation,  the  whole  valley  has  the  appearance  of 
well  kept  farms  in  the  State  of  New  York,  being  almost 
free  from  sage  brush  and  the  rough,  uneven  surface  of 
nearly  all  wild  land  in  this  county.  The  San  Marcos  and 
Escondido  Valleys  are  old  Mexican  grants. 

The  City  of  Escondido  contains  a  population  of  about 
1,200,  or  city  and  valley  combined  about  2,500.  Brick  pre- 
dominates as  a  building  material,  and  gives  the  place  a 
substantial  aspect.  There  are  four  hotels,  no  saloons,  a 
bank,  six  churches  and  six  school  buildings,  waterworks 
and  fair  grounds.  The  chief  products  of  the  valley  are 
grapes,  grain,   oranges  and  lemons.     Bounding  Escondido 


422 

on  the  north  arc  sleep  cliff-like  hills  that  separate  the  main 
valley  from  a  number  of  small  pocket  valleys,  each  con- 
taining four  or  five  large  farms.  There  is  therefore  much 
territory  directly  tributary  to  Escondido  not  included  in 
ilu-   main   valley. 

.V  large  flouring  mill  is  just  constructed,  and  electric 
light  and  extensive  irrigation  systems  will  soon  be  in 
operation.  The  people  of  Escondido  are  a  well-to-do,  cul- 
tured class,  mainly  from  the  Eastern  and  Middle  States. 

Fallbrook.  Another  branch  line  runs  from  Oceanside  to 
Fallbrook,  a  picturesque  fruit-growing  section,  twenty 
miles  away  in  the  mountains. 

Returning  to   Oceanside,   we  continue   our  journey   until 

Carlsbad  is  reached,  eighty-eight  miles  from  Los  An- 
geles. Carlsbad  stands  upon  a  commanding  bluff,  with  a 
broad  smooth  beach  one  hundred  feet  below.  It  fur- 
nishes several  valuable  mineral  springs  and,  with  true  Cal- 
ifornian  sanguineness,  hopes  to  rival  its  German  prede- 
cessor in  fame.  It  has  a  commodious  hotel  that  will  ac- 
commodate 125  people.  Accommodations  for  families  are 
excellent,  and  camping  on  the  bluff  is  freely  invited  at  all 
seasons. 

Los  Costa  and  Leucadia  are  still  but  small  flag  stations. 

Encinitas,  ninety-seven  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is  a 
rapidly  growing  seaside  resort,  and  has  a  very  picturesque 
shore  line.  There  are  inany  pretty  cottages,  general  im- 
provements and  several  hotels.  The  Encinitas  House  has 
capacit}'  for  thirty  people. 

The  Derby  House  can  serve  twenty  tourists  with  comfort. 
Camping  in  this  vicinity  is  free,  with  excellent  water. 

On  the  same  pleasant  little  strip  of  coast,  running  be- 
tween Oceanside  and  San  Diego,,  on  which  Encinitas  is 
located,  lies 

Del  Mar.     The  superb  view  of  the  curving  cliffs  make 


423 

it  a  beautiful  site  for  a  pleasure  resort.  The  bathing 
pool  affords  good  bathing  for  women  and  children  who  do 
not  care  to  go  into  the  surf  as  do  the  men  and  boys.  The 
beach  at  low  tide  affords  a  fine  driveway  300  feet  broad 
and  twenty  miles  long.  The  eucalyptus  groves  form  a 
charming  back  ground  to  the  little  town.  There  is  a  good 
though  small  hotel ;  also  church  and  schoolhouse. 

Morena,  121  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  gives  a  royal  view 
from  its  height  of  the  waters  of  the  San  Diego  Bay  and  the 
first  glimpse  of  the  pride  of  our  Southern  Coast,  the  Ho- 
tel Del  Coronado,  San  Diego  Bay  aiid  the  cloud-piercing 
light-houses  on  Point  Loma. 

Old  Toivn  was  the  ancient  site  of  San  Diego.  It  was 
the  first  spot  chosen  for  a  permanent  town  by  the  Spanish 
missionaries.     The  Indians  named  it   Cosaj'. 

Leaving  Old  Town,  we  enter 

San  Diego  proper,  127  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  the  sec- 
ond city  in  magnitude  and  industrial  probabilities  of 
Southern  California.       (See  next  chapter.) 

In  the  exhibit  rooms  of  the  San  Diego  Chamber  of  Com- 
merce is  a  bronze  cannon,  which  was  cast  at  Manila  in  1873, 


The  House  where  H.  H.  Located  the  Marriage  of  Ramona. 


424 

Iiaving  been  brought  to  San  Diego  as  a  part  of  the  pueblo's 
defense  when  all  this  land  was  under  the  dominion  of 
Spain.  The  San  Diego  of  those  days  is  now  spoken  of  as 
Old  i  own,  where  may  be  seen  a  few  modern  buildings  sur- 
rounded by  many  ruined  adobes.  The  old  Mission  bells 
are  suspended  from  a  wooden  frame  near  the  little  church, 
not  far  from  which  is  the  fairly  preserved  building  in  which 
Ramona  was  married.  About  three  miles  up  the  valley 
Father  Junipera   Serra   founded   the  first  mission   in   Cali- 


-^'fez:: 


fornia,  July  i6,  1769.  To-day  the  Sisters  of  St.  Joseph  main- 
tain a  school  for  Indian  children  there,  and  are  always  ready 
and  willing  to  show  visitors  around  the  crumbling  ruins  of 
the  old  mission  buildings,  where  are  the  first  olive  trees 
planted  in  California,  the  scions  of  many  hundred  orchards; 
the  picturesque  old  dam  across  the  San  Diego  River,  built 
by  the  early  fathers ;  the  long  tunnel  leading  from  the  mis- 
sion buildings  to  a  point  in  the  valley  where  water  could  be 
obtained,  the  excavation  of  w^hich  was  made  necessarj-  for 
the  protection  of  the  padres  and  their  converts  at  a  time 
when  the  place  was  surrounded  and  besieged  by  hostile  In- 
dians. 


425 

Between  Old  San  Diego  r.nci  the  entrance  to  the  bay  is 
La  Playa,  the  landing  place  for  San  Diego  described  in 
Richard  Henry's  Dana's  "Two  Years  Before  the  Mast,"  now 
a  Portngnese  fishing  village,  which  you  will  want  to  visit. 


*^"ilP2lPlli?^^''1^*5^ 


The  Brush  Chapel  at  Santa  Ysabel. 


.-'iihyM 


^;^pimx^ 


CHAPTER    XXXV. 

SAN    DIEGO    AND   CORONADO. 

The  modern  City  of  San  Diego  was  founded  by  A.  E. 
Horton,  Esq.,  in  1867.  The  wisdom  of  his  selection  is  fully 
justified  by  years  of  steady  growth,  the  population  to-day 
being  nearly  20,000.  The  situation  is  not  only  sanitary  and 
attractive,  with  its  foothills  and  slopes  following  the  curves 
of  the  beautiful  bay,  so  well  protected  by  Point  Loma,  but 
it  is  also  admirably  adapted  for  the  ocean  commerce  that 
is  now  beginning  to  find  its  Avay  through  the  Silver  Gate. 
Numerous  wharves  extend  into  deep  water,  and  in  their 
neighborhood  may  be  found  yards,  planing  mills,  ware- 
houses, foundries,  etc. ;  then  come  the  retail  business  blocks, 
many  of  them  very  handsome  structures,  and  beyond  these, 
spreading  out  north,  east  and  south,  over  the  undulating 
hill  land,  is  the  residence  portion  of  the  city.  Hundreds  of 
charming  homes  fill  up  block  after  block,  the  commanding 
positions  being  occupied  by  stately  residences,  whose  view 
takes  in  the  ocean,  bay,  and  not  only  the  hills  and  mesas 
of  our  own  land,  but,  in  the  distance,  towards  the  south, 
may  be  seen  the  m.ountains  of  Old  Mexico.  The  electric 
railway  system  throughout  the  city  covers  a  large  area,  and 
is  one  of  the  best  and  most  complete  to  be  found  anywhere. 


427 

All  of  San  Diego,  however,  cannot  be  seen  from  the  car 
lines,  and  the  visitor  should  not  leave  the  city  without  first 
having  driven  through  the  residence  sections,  Florence 
Heights,  Golden  Hill,  and  other  favored  localities  where 
are  so  many  beautiful  homes.  Water,  pure  and  wholesome, 
is  provided  in  abundance,  the  supply  and  distribution  being 
controlled  by  the  municipality.  The  sewerage  system  v.-as 
wisely  planned,  and  is  ample  for  a  population  of  one  hun- 
dred thousand.  The  streets  of  the  city  are  well  lighted  by 
electricity. 

San  Diego's  schools,  private  and  public,  have  an  excellent 
reputation.  The  most  imposing  Normal  School  building 
of  the  State  is  located  here,  and,  what  is  more  to  the  point, 
the  good  work  of  the  institution,  and  San  Diego's  peerless 
climate,  is  attracting  students  not  only  from  different  parts 
of  California,  but  from  many  other  States.  An  attractive 
Carnegie  library  building,  supplemented  by  the  library  of 
the  citizens  of  San  Diego,  has  just  been  completed.  A  large 
and  handsome  Opera  House,  perfect  in  its  appointments,  is 
on  the  circuit  of  the  very  best  theatrical  and  operatic  com- 
panies. The  different  religious  organizations  worship  in 
attractive  edifices ;   secret  societies  and  benevolent  associa- 


Los  Banos— the  Baths — at  San  Diego. 


429 

tions  have  their  lodge  rooms;  numerous  musical  and  liter- 
ary clubs  are  supported  by  an  active  membership  of  ladies 
and  gentlemen.  Three  daily  papers,  one  morning  and  two 
evening,  afford  a  local  and  general  news  service  that  is  com- 
plete and  reliable.  The  Country  Club,  a  prosperous  in- 
stitution, maintains  extensive  and  well-kept  golf  grounds. 
San  Diego  is  pre-eminently  a  social  town;  the  population 
is  naturally  cosmopolitan,  every  State  in  the  Union  being 
represented.  You  are  sure  to  find  some  one  here  from  your 
old  home. 

There  are  several  strong  banking  institutions  in  the  city, 
and  a  large  number  of  excellent  retail  stores,  where  the  va- 
riety, quality  and  prices  in  all  lines  of  goods  will  satisfy  the 
most  economical  and  particular.  The  housekeeper  will  al- 
ways find  the  markets  well  supplied  with  meats,  game,  fish, 
vegetables  and  fruit. 

The  hotel  accommodations  of  the  city  are  excellent,  and 
there  are  a  numl^er  of  sunny,  modern  lodging-houses,  where 
rooms  may  be  obtained  at  reasonable  rates,  wliile  the  res- 
taurants of  the  city  are  noted  for  their  cheapness  and  ex- 
cellence. 

Houses,  large  and  small,  furnished  and  unfurnished,  may 
be  had  at  reasonable  rentals. 

For  invalids  and  those  reciuiring  special  medical  and  sur- 
gical care  there  are  pleasantly  situated  within  the  city  limits 
several  sanitariums,  thoroughly  modern  in  their  arrange- 
ments with  experienced  physicians  and  trained  nurses  in 
constant  attendance. 

The  Bay  of  San  Diego. — Curving  along  the  eastern  shore 
of  Point  Loma,  then  trending  to  the  south  for  a  distance  of 
some  ten  miles,  separated  from  the  ocean  for  the  great- 
er part  of  the  distance  by  a  narrow  stretch  of  sand  run- 
ning from  the  mainland  to  Hotel  del  Coronado  and  the  head 
of  the  peninsula,  just  beyond,  is  the  beautiful  bay  of  San 


430 

Diego,  having  an  area  of  over  twcnly-two  square  miles  large 
enough  and  deep  enough  to  anchor  the  navies  of  the  world, 
and  suited  in  every  way  to  the  demands  of  commerce.  Be- 
ing free  from  high  winds  and  fully  protected  by  Point  Loma, 
this  broad  sheet  of  smooth  water  is  an  ideal  place  for  fish- 
ing ,  swimming,  boating  and  yachting.  A  number  of  yachts 
are  owned  by  residents  of  San  Diego  and  trials  of  skill  and 
speed  are  frequent.  Along  the  water-front  may  be  found  a 
number  of  boatmen  who  have  good  row  boats  and  sloops  to 
be  let  at  reasonable  rates  by  the  day,  week  or  month.  There 
are  several  young  ladies'  boat  clubs,  the  members  of  which, 
dressed  in  their  natty  uniforms,  present  a  very  attractive 
appearance  as  tliey  bend  to  the  oars,  speeding  along  in  the 
best  man-of-war  fashion,  their  bright  faces  plainly  evidenc- 
ing the  healthfulness  of  the  exercise.  The  San  Diego  Row- 
ing Club  has  a  membership  of  over  one  hundred  and  fifty, 
owns  a  handsome  and  commodious  club  house,  and  does 
much  to  encourage  bay  sports.  There  are  several  excellent 
bath-houses  along  the  water  front,  maintaining  large  swim- 
ming tanks,  where  the  more  timid  may  enjoy  a  plunge 
and  swim  in  salt  water,  learning  their  strokes  and  gathering 
confidence  and  strength  which  will  enable  them  in  a  short 
time  to  forsake  the  narrow  limits  of  the  tank  for  the  liberty 
of  the  bay.  A  swimming  party  is  quite  the  thing,  and  af- 
fords a  merry  and  enjoyable  outing  every  month  in  the  year, 
the  temperature  of  the  water  being  always  comfortable.  For 
an  extended  trip  around  the  bay  you  can  secure  one  of  the 
numerous  power  launches — swift  boats,  nicely  fitted  up.  in 
which  a  large  party  may  make  the  entire  circuit  with  com- 
fort and  enjoyment  and  at  little  cost.  This  trip  on  a  moon- 
light night,  with  a  musical  quartette  aboard,  is  a  pleasure 
long  to  be  remembered. 

Point  Lo»ia. — To  the  geologist,  or  the  lover  of  nature. 
Point  Loma,  the  time-worn,  grand  old  ridge  guarding  San 


431 

Diego  Ba}-,  calls  for  many  visits.  The  road  is  one  of  the 
best  in  the  Bay  region,  and  affords  a  delightful  outing. 
From  near  the  old  lighthouse  on  the  heights  above  Fort 
Rosecrans  you  have  a  view  of  the  peninsula  of  Coronado, 
with  its  big  hotel,  surrounded  by  charming  seaside  homes. 
A  narrow  thread  of  golden  sand  runs  south  from  Hotel  del 
Coronado  to  the  head  of  the  bay,  beyond  which  the  most 
notable  feature  of  the  landscape  is  Table  Mountain  in  Mexi- 
co. Dotted  in  the  sea,  off  the  Mexican  coast,  are  the  Coron- 
ado Islands ;  Corpus  Christi,  with  its  sarcophagus-like  form, 
attracting  immediate  attention.  Directly  at  your  feet  is  the 
entrance  to  the  bay,  the  channel  quickly  widening  out  into 
a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  miles  in  length,  with  scarcely  a 
ripple  to  mar  its  surface.  Along  the  eastern  shore  of  the 
bay  the  business  blocks  and  homes  of  San  Diego  trend  up^ 
ward,  covering  the  slopes  and  crowning  the  hills  over  a 
large  area.  Beyond  the  city  the  land  gradually  rises  to  the 
mesas  and  mountains — one  of  the  grandest  views  the  world 
over. 

Along  the  ridge,  nortl;  of  the  Government  Reservation, 
the  Theosophists,  under  the  leadership  of  Katherine  Ting- 
ley,  have  purchased  an  extensive  tract  of  land,  upon  which 
they  have  built  a  large  hotel  of  Moorish  architecture,  open 
to  the  general  public.  Seaward  of  the  hotel  is  a  temple  of 
music  of  unique  design,  surmounted  by  an  immense  glass 
dome,  circling  which  is  a  wide  balcony  commanding  an  un- 
rivaled view  of  ocean,  bay,  mesa  and  mountain.  One  of  the 
gulches  near-by  has  been  transformed  into  a  huge  am- 
phitheatre for  the  reproduction  of  Greek  plays  on  an  elabo- 
rate scale.  A  large  amount  of  money  has  also  been  expen- 
ded in  improving  the  grounds,  which  are  extensive  and 
beautiful.  A  number  of  conveniently  arranged  buildings 
provide  comfortable  quarters  for  the  scores  of  orphan  child- 
ren being  cared  for  by  this  society.     To  witness  the  com- 


432 

iiKiidablc  efforts  Ijciiig  put  forth  for  tlicse  little  ones  will 
enlist  your  sympalliics  and  add  great  pleasure  to  the  visit. 
Amid  such  grand  surroundings,  and  with  such  forces  at 
work,  Point  Loma  Homestead,  as  the  resort  is  called,  must 
soon  take  its  place  as  one  of  the  great  attractions  of  the 
Southwest. 

The  Coroiiado  Islands. — One  of  the  greatest  charms  of 
life  in  San  Diego  is  that  all  your  days  may  be  spent  out-of- 
doors;  and  it  is  well  that  this  is  so,  there  is  so  much  to 
be  seen,  so  much  to  do.  A  delightful  change  from  the  ordi- 
nary routine  may  be  had  by  choosing  a  day  when  the  ocean 
is  in  a  peaceful  mood — it  is  seldom  otherwise — securing  the 
services  of  an  experienced  boatman,  and  making  up  a  party 
for  a  trip  to  the  wonderful  marine  gardens  on  the  lea  of 
the  Coronado  Islands.  Take  your  lunch  along,  for  the  en- 
tire day  will  be  consumed  in  making  the  trip  and  viewing 
the  wonders  of  the  deep  from  the  glass-bottomed  boat  which 
will  be  placed  at  your  service.  You  have  often  visited  a 
conservatory  and  admired  the  beautiful  plants  and  flowers 
growing  in  such  profusion,  but  attractive  as  it  may  be,  the 
marine  life  here  seen  is  vastly  more  interesting.  Sea-mosses 
and  kelp,  beautiful  in  color  and  forms,  and  in  endless  va- 
riety, reach  upward  from  the  ocean's  depth,  floating  in  and 
out  of  which  are  huge  jelly-fish,  giving  forth  all  the  colors 
of  the  rainbow,  w^hile  darting  here  and  there  may  be  seen 
brilliantly-colored  members  of  the  finny  tribe.  The  trip 
will  also  afford  you  an  excellent  opportunity  to  study  bird- 
life,  as  thousands  of  sea-gulls  make  these  islands  their 
home.  What  lends  additional  interest  to  the  outing  is  the 
fact  that  the  islands  belong  to  Mexico,  and  in  visiting  them 
you  have  made  a  trip  by  sea  to  a  foreign  country.  Be 
sure  and  carry  your  fishing  tackle  along,  for  you  are  likely 
to  have  some  sport;  and  do  not  forget  your  kodak,  as  many 
opportunities  for  taking  some  unusually  pretty  marine  views 


433 

will,  in  all  likelihood,  present  themselves ;  perhaps  you  can 
transfix  a  flying-fish  on  the  wing.  Do  not  let  thoughts  of 
seasickness  interfere  with  your  plans,  for  that  is  a  complaint 
practically  unknown  in  this  region  of  sunny  skies  and  calm 
seas. 

Park  Dcz'clopiiiciif  in  San  Diego  is  receiving  a  great  deal 
of  careful  attention.  Besides  several  smaller  areas,  the  city 
has  1,400  acres  in  one  body,  a  magnificent  stretch  of  land 
centralh'  situated,  a  plan  for  the  improvement  of  which 
is  now  being  prepared,  under  the  auspices  of  the  San  Diego 
Chamber  of  Commerce,  b}'  Samuel  Parsons,  Jr.,  landscape 
architect  for  Greater  New  York.  Quite  a  large  fund  has 
been  secured  for  the  improvement  of  the  park,  and  the  work 
of  development  will  commence  just  as  soon  as  the  plans  are 
fully  completed,  and  will  be  continued  unremittingly  until 
San  Diego's  Park  has  become  one  of  the  most  unique  and 
beautiful  to  be  found  the  world  over. 

The  varieties  of  sea-weed  to  be  found  off  this  coast  are 
most  beautiful  in  form  and  coloring.  Days  and  weeks  may 
be  spent  by  the  interested  collector  in  securing  and  mount- 
ing specimens  for  his  cabinet. 

The  following  account  of  San  Diego's  climate  was  writ- 
ten by  Ford  A.  Carpenter,  Observer  U.  S.  Weather  Bureau : 

TIic  Climate. — Four  elements  enter  into  a  consideration 
of  the  climate  of  San  Diego.  Named  according  to  their 
importance,  they  are  as  follows:  (i)  Distance  from  the 
northern  storm  tracks,  and  the  southern  storms  of  the  Low- 
er California  coast;  (2)  proximity  to  the  ocean  on  the  west; 
(3)  the  mountains  on  the  east;  (4)  the  great  Colorado  des- 
ert still  further  east.  The  number  of  northern  areas  of  low 
pressure  sufFicientb'  great,  and  moving  far  enough  south  to 
exert  an  influence  at  the  latitude  of  San  Diego,  are  com- 
paratively few;  not  one-tenth  of  these  "lows"  have  an  ap- 
preciable effect  on  the  climate.     The  storms  from  the  south 


434 

(Sonoras,  as  may  be  locally  known),  have  but  little  en- 
ergy, and  probably  average  two  a  year.  As  is  the  case  in 
all  marine  climates,  the  ocean  exerts  by  far  the  most  pow- 
erful effect.  This  is  noticed  in  the  slight  daily  variation  in 
temperature,  and  the  absence  of  either  hot  or  cold  weather. 
The  average  daily  change  in  temperature  from  day  to  day 
is  2  degrees,  and  the  extreme  in  temperature,  from  a  record 
of  29  years,  are  loi  degrees  and  32  degrees.  The  tempera- 
ture has  exceeded  90  degrees  nineteen  times  in  29  years, 
or  an  average  of  about  twice  every  three  years.  Four  times 
in  the  history  of  the  station  has  the  temperature  touched 
32  degrees,  but  it  has  never  fallen  lower.  Four  killing  frosts 
have  occurred  in  San  Diego  since  the  establishment  of  the 
station,  but  aside  from  blackening  tender  shoots  and  killing 
delicate  flowers  in  exposed  places,  no  damage  was  done. 

The  desert  winds  arc  responsible  for  temperature  above 
90  degrees,  and  they  are,  therefore,  accompanied  by  ex- 
tremely low  humidity.  Records  of  humidity  below  10  per 
cent,  are  not  uncommon  during  the  two  or  three  hours'  dur- 
ation of  the  desert  wind.  Three  per  cent,  is  the  lowest 
relative  humidity  ever  recorded  at  this  station.  As  the  sea 
breeze  is  stronger  than  the  desert  wind,  the  highest  point 
reached,  wherever  the  temperature  is  above  90  degrees,  us- 
ually occurs  about  11  a.  m.  At  this  time  the  sea  breeze 
overcomes  the  land  breeze,  and  the  temperature  drops  to  the 
normal. 

Nothing  so  clearly  illustrates  the  strictly  local  character 
of  the  climate  of  San  Diego  as  the  humidity.  While  the 
mean  annual  relative  humidity  is  78  per  cent,  at  the  Weath- 
er Bureau  station,  two  miles  north,  and  at  an  increase  of 
200  feet  in  elevation,  the  humidity  decreases  15  per  cent. 
Five  miles  away,  and  at  an  elevation  of  300  feet,  there  is 
a  further  decrease  of  5  per  cent.  The  temperature  i<5.  of 
course,  proportionately  higher. 


435 

The  maximum  amount  of  sunshine  occurs  in  November, 
and  the  minimum  in  May  and  June;  the  winters  being  us- 
ually bright  and  warm,  and  the  summers  cloudy  and  cool. 
The  photographic  sunshine  recorder  was  installed  in  1890, 
and  this  ten  years'  i-ecord  shows  an  average  of  but  three 
days  each  year  without  sunshine. 

There  is  a  difference  of  about  one  mile  an  hour  in  the 
average  hourly  velocity  of  the  wind  between  the  summer 
and  winter  months,  the  mean  annual  hourly  velocity  is 
5  miles.  While  the  wind  blows  from  every  point  of  the 
compass  during  a  normal  day,  the  land  breeze  is  very  light, 
averaging  about  3  miles  per  hour,  reaching  its  lowest  velo- 
city just  before  the  sea  breeze  sets  in.  The  records  show 
that  there  is  an  average  velocity  of  from  6  to  9  miles  from 
10  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.  During  the  summer  a  velocity  of  6 
miles  is  attained  at  9  a.  m.,  increasing  to  10  miles  at 
2  p.  m.,  reaching  6  miles  at  7  p.  m.  The  winter  months 
have  about  five  hours  of  wind  over  6  miles,  beginning 
shortly  after  noon.  Winds  of  from  25  to  30  miles  per  hour 
occur  infrequently,  the  average  annual  number  being  2. 
Winds  from  31  to  40  miles  have  an  average  of  less  than  i 
a  year.  The  highest  velocity  ever  attained  was  40  miles 
from  the  northwest,  in  February,  1878. 

Hotel  del  Cnronado. — Just  across  the  bay  from  San  Diego 
is  the  great  summer  and  winter  resort,  Coronado  Beach. 
The  peninsula  of  Coronado,  with  its  charming  environment, 
is  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  purposes  of  a  great  pleasure  re- 
sort. There  is  nothing  approaching  it  the  entire  length  of 
the  Pacific  Coast,  and  none  of  the  famous  Atlantic  resorts 
surpass  this  fair  spot  in  natural  attractions. 

Hotel  del  Coronado,  though  completely  equipped  for  a 
thousand  guests  when  built,  has  been  improved  each  year. 
Nothing  is  left  undone  by  the  management  that  can  in  any 
way  contribute   to   the   comfort   and   entertainment   of  the 


I    u 


437 


^^^  'S^  '  ..^/^^ 


La  Jolla  Sea  Caves. 


guests.  'J'he  chef  has  a  national  reputation ;  the  service  is 
perfect.  It  is  worth  journeying  across  the  continent  just  to 
spend  a  moonlight  evening  at  Coronado.  Seated  on  the 
south  veranda  of  that  queen  of  all  hotels,  you  can  see,  but 
a  short  distance  away,  the  smooth  surface  of  San  Diego 
Bay,  gleaming  like  a  lake  of  burnished  silver  in  the  moon- 
light ;  while  to  the  west,  but  a  stone's  throw  distant,  the 
rollers  of  the  Pacific  come  rushing  in.  Upward  curls  the 
water,  and  as  the  waves  break  each  drop  catches  a  moon- 
beam and  hurls  it  landward,  a  constant  shower  of  stars,  to 
which  the  booming  surf  lends  additional  interest.  'Tis 
grand,  beautiful  beyond  description.  Winter  or  summer, 
Coronado  is  equally  delightful. 

77; r  Tented  City. — In  accommodating  the  pleasure-loving 
public,  the  Coronado  Beach  management  has,  at  great  ex- 
pense, prepared  and  set  aside  a  portion  of  its  land  just 
between  bay  and  ocean,  about  half  a  mile  south  of  the 
Hotel,  as  a  special  resort  for  visitors  from  the  interior  and 
neighboring  States  who  do  not  care  for  hotel  life  and  yet 


438 

wish  to  enjoy  tlic  iiiaii>  privileges  ofTcrcd  at  this  attractive 
resort.  Here  you  may  pitch  your  own  tent,  or  rent  one  al- 
ready furnished,  and  proceed  to  enjoy  a  life  of  ease,  com- 
fort and  pleasure.  In  this  delightful  region,  summer  or 
winter,  you  may  indulge  in  walking,  golfing,  wheeling, 
driving,  fishing,  shooting,  boating,  swimming,  gaining  health 
and  strength  with  each  day's  sojourn. 

Trif>s  from  San  Diego  — One  of  the  most  interesting  trips 
the  tourist  can  take  while  in  San  Diego  is  on  the  cars  of 
the  San  Diego,  Pacific  Beach  &  La  Jolla  Railway  to 

La  Jolla  (pronounced  La-hoy-eli) ,  twelve  miles  from 
San  Diego.  It  is  almost  wholly  surrounded  by  hills.  There 
is  an  air  of  rugged  grandeur  and  zest  of  danger  about  the 
place  with  its  mammoth  caves  of  standstone,  which  fasci- 
nate and  attract  all  who  once  come  Avithin  their  influence. 
There  are  ten  in  all,  some  of  which  are  four  hundred  feet 
broad  and  two  hundred  feet  high,  with  a  depth  extending 
back  under  the  hills,  of  four  hundred  to  six  hundred  feet. 

Carved  out  by  the  resistless  action  of  the  restless  waves 
through  centuries  of  energy  they  suggest  a  gothic  temple 
erected  for  the  worship  of  the  giant  mermaids  and  mermen. 

The  western  cave  is  most  accessible,  its  entrance  being 
piled  level  with  the  sea  with  huge  boulders  worn  into  odd 
and  singular  shapes  by  the  constant  action  of  the  water. 
The  roof  of  the  mammoth  cavern  is  dome  shaped,  while  the 
sandstone  walls  and  roof  are  wonderfully  and  fantastically 
frescoed  in  nature's  prettiest  hues.  Farther  down  the  in- 
terior, where  the  walls  narrow,  a  passage  is  discovered  lead- 
ing to  the  adjoining  cavern,  through  which  the  waters  rush 
and  return  to  the  sea.  The  surf  breaking  upon  the  walls 
of  these  caves  and  the  rocks  at  their  portals  sounds  like  the 
distant  roar  of  cannons. 

Cathedral  Rock,  Alligator  Head,  and  the  Seal  Rock  Point, 
other  masses  of  sea-carved  sandstone,  are  of  interest,  while 


439 

for  children,  Gold  Fish  Point  has  a  thousand  charms. 
Numberless  gold  fish  flit  in  and  out  among  the  kelp  and 
mosses,  little  monarchs  oi  a  submarine  world. 

The  kelp  beds  are  very  extensive  and  form  a  breakwater 
for  the  shore.  The  coast  of  La  Jolla  is  entirely  unique  with 
its  clean  white  sand,  mysterious  caves  and  cozy  beaches. 

To  gather  sea  mosses  at  La  Jolla  is  one  of  the  chief 
delights  of  the  traveler.  The  varieties  found  are  so  rarely 
and  delicately  beautiful,  with  tints  so  exquisite  and  charm- 
ing, that  it  is  no  wonder  that  many  who  never  dreamed  of 
enjoying  sea-moss  gathering  become  enamored  of  it. 

Those  who  enjoy  good  fishing  or  trolling  can  find  plenty 
of  barracuda,  mackerel  and  yellow  tail,  which  abound  here. 
A  visit  to  La  Jolla  is  not  complete  without  going  for  a  ride 
in  the  hotel's  four-in-hand  to  the  "Torrey  Pines,"  the  only 
grove  of  its  kind  in  the  United  States.  The  ride  is  through 
the  most  picturesque  valley  in  California. 

El  Cajoii  Valley. — The  sightseer  and  homeseeker  should 
not  fail,  when  in  San  Diego,  to  take  a  ride  over  the  San 
Diego,  Cuyamaca  and  Eastern  Railway,  through  the  famous 
El  Cajon  Valley,  to  Lakeside. 

Leaving  San  Diego  at  the  depot,  foot  of  Tenth  street, 
the  North  Chollas  is  crossed,  and  then  into  and  through  the 
South  Chollas  Valleys,  where  there  are  several  hundred 
acres  in  lemon  and  orange  orchards  and  vines,  in  view  from 
the  train.  Skirting  Spring  Valley,  ten  miles  from  San 
Diego,  through  La  Mesa  and  into  El  Cajon  Valley,  parallel 
with  the  San  Diego  Flume — which  supplies  San  Diego  with 
pure,  soft  water,  brought  from  the  Cuyamaca  Mountains, 
sixty  miles  distant— then  nine  miles  through  the  Cajon, 
where  you  may  see  from  the  car  windows  over  three  thou- 
sand acres  in  vines  and  over  five  thousand  acres  in  fruit 
trees.  The  shipment  from  the  vines  in  this  valley  alone 
in  1893  was  1,000,000  pounds  of  grapes  and  over  3,000,000 


440 

l)i)uiuls  of  raisins,  all  of  wliicli  were  forwarded  to  the 
Eastern  cities. 

'J'iic  views  as  3'ou  journey  along  arc  exquisitely  beautiful 
and  piclurcscnie.  I  lie  wide  expanse  of  valley,  clothed  in 
its  rich  garment  of  different-hued  verdure,  divided  into  suit- 
able sized  ranches,  where  nestle  the  comfortable  homes, 
evidently  the  abode  of  peace  and  plenty,  the  signs  of  restless 
activity  which  must  improve  and  beautify, — the  whole  scene 
gazed  upon  by  giant  mountain  peaks,  which  in  sovereign 
benignity  look  down  over  so  pleasing  an  aspect — this  is  what 
the  onward  traveler  enjoys  until  and  after  he  reaches  Lake- 
side, at  the  upper  end  of  El  Cajon  Valley,  and  twenty  miles 
northeast  from  San  Diego. 

The  railway  was  built  in  1888  and  1889,  and  opened  April 
I,  1889.  Its  principal  office  and  terminus  are  at  the  foot 
of  Tenth  and  N  streets,  San  Diego.  Tiie  total  length  of 
the  road  is  25.37  miles.  Its  route  we  have  seen,  and  the 
El  Cajon  Valley,  which  is  the  chief  valley  passed,  contains 
some  5,000  acres. 

A  Trip  to  Mexico. — Leaving  San  Diego  on  the  '"Lemon 
Special"  over  the  National  City  &  Otay  Railway,  you  pass 
tlirough  National  City,  a  village  of  pleasant  homes,  the 
principal  industry  being  lemon  packing,  the  manufacture 
of  citric  acid,  oil  of  lemon,  komel  and  other  by-products  of 
the  lemon,  orange  and  pomelo.  Crossing  the  valley  of  the 
Sweetwater  you  are  in  Chula  Vista,  a  tract  containing  sev- 
eral thousand  acres  of  land  divided,  for  the  most  part, 
into  ten-acre  holdings,  which  are  set  out  to  lemons,  oranges 
and  grape  fruit.  By  a  contract  with  the  company  selling 
the  land,  the  houses  originally  built  were  not  to  cost  less 
than  $2,500,  hence  you  will  see  here  an  unusual  number  of 
handsome  residences. 

Another  thing  that  lends  interest  to  the  visit  is  the  fact 
that  you  are  in  the  lemon  belt  of  America,  the      largest 


441 

lemon  orchard  in  the  world  being  located  at  this  point. 
During  the  past  season  several  hundred  car-loads  of 
lemons  were  shipped  through  San  Diego  to  the  North 
and  Ifast. 

Five  or  six  miles  beyond  Chula  Vista,  after  having  passed 
through  the  villages  of  Otay  and  Nestor,  at  the  head  of 
the  bay,  both  favored  localities,  the  train  stops  at  the 
Monument  marking  the  boundary  line  between  the  United 
States  and  Mexico.  One  step  and  you  are  in  foreign  ter- 
ritory. Driving  or  walking  across  the  bed  of  the  Tijuana 
river,  which  generally  runs  upside  down,  you  arrive  at  the 
Mexican  village  of  Tijuana,  where  you  can  purchase  In- 
dian pottery,  Mexican  curios,  drawn  work,  cigars,  etc., 
write  a  postal  or  letter  to  your  friends  away,  and  thus 
afford  them  proof  of  your  trip  to  Mexico.  Returning  you 
will  have  an  opportunity  to  visit  the  famous  Sweetwater 
Dam  and  the  auxiliary  system  of  pumping  works,  which 
furnish  a  plentiful  supply  of  water  for  Chula  Vista  and 
National  City.  To  make  assurance  doubly  sure  in  the  way 
of  a  water  supply,  the  lands  above  described  have  been 
recently  connected  with  the  Otay  Reservoir,  a  part  of  the 
great  irrigation  system  being  built  by  the  Southern  Cali- 
fornia Mountain  Water  Company. 


"F^Jw 


CHAPTER    XXXVI. 

Tlin    TEMECULA    AND    SAN    JACINTO   PRANCllES   OF    THE    SANTA 
FE    RAILWAY. 

This  is  a  portion  of  tlie  first  line  of  tlie  Santa  Fc  System 
in  California,  and  originally  extended  from  East  Riverside, 
through  the  Temecula  Canyon  to  Oceanside  and  San  Diego. 
Heavy  rains  have  several  times  destroyed  the  tracks  in  the 
Canyon  and  it  was  finally  abandoned  after  the  floods  of 
1890.  The  line  now  reaches  Temecula  50  miles  south  of 
San  Bernardino. 

Leaving  East  Riverside,  which  has  already  been  described 
in  a  former  chapter, 

Bon  Springs,  13  miles  from  San  Bernardino,  is  reached. 
This  is  a  small  point  from  which  grain,  etc.,  is  shipped. 
It  is  situated  in  the  Moreno-Alessandro  Valley,  which  has 
an  altitude  ranging  from  1,400  to  1,800  feet  above  the  sea, 
and,  protected  by  the  great  mountain  ranges  and  the  rugged 
surrounding  foothills,  has  a  climate  unexcelled.  It  has 
long  been  known  as  a  section  whose  fertile  soil,  under 
proper  cultivation,  furnished  abundantly  of  grain,  the 
yield  of  the  entire  valley  averaging  thirteen  sacks  of  wheat 
and  barley  to  the  acre  before  the  development  of  the  irriga- 
tion system  brought  its  transformation  from  a  dry  and 
dusty  plain  into  what  is  to  be  another  duplication  of  River- 
side. 

The  entire  tract,  comprising  26,000  acres,  was  sub-divided 
into  ten-acre  lots  in  December,  1891,  water  from  the  Bear 
Valley  system  having  been  introduced  the  previous  year. 
In  1891  the  planting  of  trees  was  begun,  over  1,000  acres 
being  planted  the  first  year.  The  total  acreage  now  under 
cultivation    is   4,500,    about   two-thirds   being  citrus   fruits, 


443 

the  remainder  deciduous  fruits  of  various  kinds.  The  soil 
is  very  similar  to  that  of  Riverside,  the  best  for  citrus 
fruits  being  decomposed  granite.  Such  rapid  change  from 
the  desert  condition  has  not  been  exceeded  even  in  the 
early  history  of  Riverside,  Redlands  or  Ontario. 

Moreno,  the  principal  town  and  the  center  of  the  most 
extensive  improvements,  is  located  at  the  intersection  of 
Alessandro  and  Redlands  boulevards — fine  highways  a  hiui- 
dred  and  twenty  feet  wide.  The  land  here  is  very  level, 
and  well  sheltered  by  the  San  Timoteo  hills  on  the  north 
and   east,   and   Mt.    Russell   on   the    south.      Water   having 


Cutting,  Threshing  and  Sacking  Grain  in  One  Operation  in 
Southern  California. 


first  been  delivered  to  this  side  of  the  valley,  the  settlement 
was  naturally  more  rapid  than  in  any  other  portion,  and 
the  young  orange  groves  stretch  away  as  far  as  one  can 
see  in  nearly  every  direction.  At  the  center  are  four  brick 
buildings,  occupied  as  stores  and  ofiices,  a  fine  school  build- 
ing and  the  Hotel  de  Moreno,  the  latter  a  three-story  edi- 
fice of  tasteful  design,  and  managed  in  a  manner  not  ex- 
celled elsewhere  in  the  county.  The  young  town  has  its 
due  proportion  of  business  concerns,  blacksmiths,  con- 
tractors, etc. 

The  school   system  is  excellent,  and  there  is   a   Congre- 
gational church.     There  are  several  literary  and   fraternal 


444 

societies,  all  having  large  memberships.  The  private  resi- 
dences are  neat  and  tasteful  in  design. 

The  Clovcrdale  District  lies  northerly  from  Moreno, 
among  the  foothills,  and  is  being  rapidly  settled.  Ther' 
is  a  commodious  school  house,  with  a  good  attendance, 
and  religious  and  fraternal  societies  are  well  represented. 

To  the  westward  of  town,  across  Brown's  Hills,  is  the 
rich  section  known  as 

Midlands,  set  apart  as  a  separate  school  district.  Here 
are  some  of  the  finest  and  best  kept  orchards.  A  new 
school  house,  the  finest  in  the  valley,  has  just  been  erected, 
and  literary  and  social  organizations  are  numerous.  Mid- 
land is  not  yet  a  township,  but  has  aspirations  in  that  di- 
rection. The  people  are  justly  proud  of  their  pretty  homes 
and  are  characterized  by  that  love  of  their  own  section 
which  has  been  so  great  a  factor  in  tlie  upbuilding  of  this 
l)cautiful  valley. 

Alcssaiidro.  seventeen  miles  from  San  Bernardino,  in 
the  western  portion  of  the  tract,  has  been  laid  out  in  a 
unique  manner.  It  contains  the  Santa  Fe  railroad  station, 
a  well  kept  hotel,  school  house,  freight  depot,  luml-)er 
yards,  general  merchandise  store,  postofiice,  and  several 
neat  dwellings.  It  has  great  natural  advantages  and  only 
needs  the  carrying  out  of  the  plans  made  for  its  develop- 
ment to  make  it  the  superior  of  many  of  its  more  advanced 
neighbors. 

Lakeviezi: — Population,  62;  elevation,  1.440  to  1.860  feet. 
U.  S.  Government  Survey.  This  is  the  name  given  to  a 
new  tract  of  land,  containing  about  ten  thousand  acres. 
separated  from  Moreno  and  Alessandro  by  a  range  of  low, 
picturesque  hills.  It  lies  in  a  beautiful  valley,  eight  miles 
in  length,  and  ranging  from  two  to  four  miles  in  width. 
The  locality  has  been  occupied  for  years  by  farmers,  who 
cultivated  lar^e  areas  in  grain  by  a  system  of  dry  farming. 


445 


But  now,  artesian  wells  afford  an  abundant  supply  of  flow- 
ing water,  and  a  growing  and  prosperous  town  is  the 
result.  The  visitor  will  be  interested  in  the  flowing  hot 
well  112  feet  deep.  There  is  a  fair  hotel,  the  Hansen,  rates 
$1.50  per  day. 

Ferris,  twenty-four  miles  from  San  Bernardino,  is  a 
growing  town,  situated  in  the  Ferris  Valley.  This  valley 
is  located  midway  between  the  ocean  and  the  peak  of  San 
Jacinto,  being  forty  miles  from  both.  This  valley  contains 
upwards  of  forty  thousand  acres  of  tillable  land,  surround- 
ed by  low,  broken  hills  on  the  eastern  and  western  sides, 
and  open  on  the  north  and  south,  leading  to  continuous 
valleys,  which,  altogether,  encircle  over  300,000  acres  and 
form  the  San  Jacinto  plateau. 

The  town  of  Ferris  and  its  vicinity  contains  about  one 
thousand  people.  It  supports  three  churches,  one  bank,  a 
postoffice,  several  solid  business  houses,  a  school  of  one 
hundred  and  fifty  pupils,  with  four  teachers,  and  contains 
many  neat  and  attractive  homes.  It  is  rapidly  being  settled 
by  people  of  culture  and  means. 

Ferris  is  also  the  center  of  a  rich  section  of  mining  coun- 
try. At  the  Bernasconi  Hot  Springs,  six  miles  east  of 
Ferris  are  bath  houses  and  a  hotel. 

Elsinorc. — Elevation,  1,300  feet;  to  Los  Angeles  98  miles, 
is  beautifully  situated  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Elsinore,  sur- 
rounded by  mountains  with  many  picturesque  canyons  in 
the  immediate  vicinitv. 


440 


Tlic  liot  sulphur,  mineral  water  and  mud  baths  arc  fa- 
mous the  world  over  for  the  marvelous  cures  of  all  rheu- 
matic, stomach  and  kidney  troubles  and  skin  diseases. 

The  climate  of  Elsinore  is  absolutely  free  from  malari- 
ous conditions,  with  a  warm,  dry  atmosphere  and  pleasant 
surroundings  making  out  of  door  life  peculiarly  attractive. 
Countless  numbers  of  wild  ducks,  geese  and  other  aquatic 
birds  frequent  the  lake,  affording  the  hunter  unlimited 
opportunity  for  sport,  and  large  quantities  of  quail,  rab- 
bits and  larger  game  are  to  be  found  in  the  immediate 
vicinity. 

Elsinore  is  an  incorporated  town  of  the  sixth  class.  It 
has  excellent  public  schools,  churches,  a  bank  and  post- 
office,  besides,  three  hotels — the  "Lake  View,"  the  "Hoi 
Springs,"  and  the  "Elsinore" — whose  guests  can  be  pleas- 
antly accommodated  at  rates  from  $1.25  to  $2.00  per  da.\ 
In  the  Elsinore  Press  it  has  a  well  conducted  weekly 
newspaper  to  advertise  its  advantages,  and  several  business 
houses  supply  the  demands  of  the  local  trade. 

Apricots  and  prunes  constitute  the  main  crop  of  fruit 
raised,  and  the  quality  is  unexcelled.  On  the  higher  land 
near  the  mountains,  oranges  and  lemons  thrive,  for  they 
are  never  subjected  to  damage  from  frost.  Olive  orchards 
are  numerous  and  bear  large  crops.     Peaches,  pears,  plums, 


447 

all  kinds  of  berries,  and  garden  stuff  are  grown  to  per- 
fection. On  the  moist  lands  adjacent  to  the  lake  there  is 
quite  an  acreage  devoted  to  raising  alfalfa,  which  yields 
from  five  to  seven  crops  annuall}^ 

About  five  miles  west  of  Elsinore  there  are  immense 
deposits  of  clay  of  various  colors  and  blends,  which  have 
commercial  value.  These  clays  are  mined  and  taken  to 
Alberhill  station  to  be  loaded  on  the  cars  for  shipment  to 
Los  Angeles  and  Compton,  where  the  raw  material  is 
used  for  the  manufacture  of  terra  cotta  ornaments  for 
architectural  purposes,  tiling,  fire  brick,  vitrified  sewer 
pipe,  etc.  Shipments  of  these  clays  are  made  throughout 
the  year  and  aggregate  hundreds  of  carloads.  A  factory 
is  now  at  work  in  Elsinore  for  the  rnanufacture  of  these 
materials. 

At  Alberhill,  four  and  one-half  miles  from  Elsinore,  on 
a  spur  of  the  Southern  California  Railway,  is  situated  the 
only  coal  mine  in  operation  in   Southern  California. 

One  of  the  chief  attractions  of  Elsinore  is  its  springs. 
Tradition  tells  us  that  the  Indians  used  these  mineral 
waters  and  mud  as  a  bath  for  their  ills.  Thej'-  came  from 
all  directions,  even  the  extreme  east,  taking  many  moons 
to  accomplish  the  journey.  The  first  white  people  found 
them  here  in  vast  numbers.  Their  main  object  seemed  to 
be  to  use  the  medicinal  waters.  And,  too,  the  place  affords 
all  kinds  of  water  fowl  and  wild  game,  making  their  mode 
of  life  in  this  sunny  clime  a  most  happy  one. 

The  early  settlers  soon  learned  the  great  value  of  the 
springs  in  curing  all  manner  of  diseases,  and  so  down  to 
the  present  time  many  have  received  benefits  from  these 
valuable  waters. 

Diseases  of  the  nose,  throat  and  bronchial  tubes  are 
surely  and  quickly  relieved.  Asthma  is  unknown  here. 
Dj'spepsia  and  derangements  of  ihe  kidneys  and  liver  im- 


448 

prove  and  grow  rapidly  Ix-ttcr  without  exception.  The 
cures  in  nervous,  skin  and  specific  diseases  are  often  a 
surprise  to  both  physician  and  patient.  Patients  receive 
free  consuhation. 

The  hot  mud  and  mineral  water  baths  given  by  skilled 
attendants,  cure  la  grippe,  rheumatism,  skin  and  blood 
diseases,  kidney,  stomach  and  bladder  troubles.  The  hot 
water  taken  internally  is  also  most  beneficial. 

The  T.akc  View  Hotel  and  Baths  are  owned  by  C.  S. 
'l"r,il)hagcn  &  Son.  The  hotel  is  located  on  high  ground, 
commanding  a  view  of  the  lake  and  mountains ;  has  all 
modern  improvements,  gas,  electric  bells,  fine  floor  for 
dancing,  fine  parlors  and  offices. 


The  hotel  is  directly  opposite  to  Lake  Elsinore,  six  miles 
long,  and  two  and  one-half  miles  wide,  fringed  with  fruit 
orchards  and  grain  ranches,  back  of  which  mountains  rise 
al)ruptly,   making  a  panorama  of  scenic  beauty. 

riic  winter  rates  are  from  $8  to  $15  per  week,  for  room 
and  board,  according  to  location  of  room.  Summer  rates, 
.S8  to  $12.  .\  discount  for  families  and  by  the  month. 
Transient  rates,  $2  and  $2.50  per  day. 

The  Lake  \'^iew  bathing  establishment  is  very  complete. 
The  system  of  mud  baths  has  many  improvements  not  to 
be  found  at  any  other  springs.  The  treatment  here  con- 
sists  of   hot    mud,    mineral    water,    the    Ralston    bath,    oil, 


449 

alcohol  and  plain  massage,  in  fact  everything  needed  to 
aid  in  cnring  the  sick.  The  hot  mineral  water  of  Elsinore 
Springs  is  a  perfect  combination  of  sulphnr,  arsenic,  iron, 
potash,  soda  and  magnesia,  making  it  a  valuable  cure  of 
rheumatism  and  kindred  diseases.  Special  discount  on  all 
baths  to  guests  of  the  Lake  View  Hotel. 

Returning  now  to  Perris,  a  branch  line  runs  to 

IVildoiiiar,  seven  miles  south  of  Elsinore,  forty-six  miles 
from  San  Bernardino.  It  is  seventeen  years  since  the  tract 
was  first  located  upon,  by  people  from  Iowa  and  other 
Eastern  States.  The  new  comers  being  a  religious  and 
temperate  class,  the  church  and  school  have  from  the  first 
had  hearty  support.  Wildomar  is  a  "no  saloon"  colony, 
the  deeds  to  all  the  property  containing  a  prohibition 
clause.  A  hotel  and  general  merchandise  store  supply  the 
business  needs  of  the  place. 

Miirietta,  forty-six  miles  from  San  Bernardino,  is  a 
small  town  named  for  the  proprietor  of  the  ranch. 

It  is  a  prettily  located  little  town  and  was  laid  out  half 
a  dozen  years  ago.  There  is  a  good  hotel,  depot,  school 
house,  church  and  many  business  buildings. 

Tcmccida.- — Six  miles  down  the  valley  from  Murietta, 
and  at  an  altitude  of  i,ooo  feet,  lies  this  little  town.  About 
a  mile  south  of  Temecula  station  the  level  valley  is  first 
seen  and  is  a  sight  to  gladden  the  eyes  and  heart  of  any 
man.  The  valley  is  nearly  level.  Some  large  ranches  are 
in  this  neighborhood,  among  which  may  be  named  the 
"Pauba  Rancho,"  containing  27,0(X)  acres,  and  the  great 
Santa  Rosa  rancho,  containing  48,000  acres,  devoted  to 
cattle  raising.  There  is  also  the  Wolf  rancho,  of  4,400 
acres,  and  the  Little  Temecula,  of  2,500  acres. 

Temecula  is  the  site  of  an  old  Indian  \illagc,  the  history 
of  which  H.  H.  made  immortal  in  her  "Ramona."  The 
canvon  south  of  Temecula  is  vividlv  described  in  that  great 


450 

novd  ami  tlic  visitor  will  find  it  enjoyable  in   the  extreme 
to  see   its   wonders. 

The  San  Jacinto  Branch  of  the  Santa  Fe  leaves  Perris 
and  runs  easterly  to  the  city  of  San  Jacinto,  tapping  the 
greatest  grain  producing  section  of  Southern  California. 
This  line  is  about  twenty  miles  long.  After  leaving  Perris 
the  first  place  is 

Menifee,  a  small  shipping  station  for  grain  and  ether 
agricultural  products. 

Midway  between  Perris  and  San  Jacinto  is 
WincJiester,  a  typical  Southern  California,  inland-valley 
town.  Winchester  has  churches,  schools,  a  bright  weekly 
newspaper,  and  is  a  lively,  go-ahead  place.  It  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  San  Jacinto  and  Pleasant  Valley  Irrigation 
District,  and  is  one  of  the  largest  grain  shipping  points  in 
Southern  California,  being  surrounded  by  a  very  rich  and 
productive  country. 

All  that  section  of  the  great  San  Jacinto  Valley  lying  on 
the  "mesa"  is  known  as 

Hemet. — Its  location  is  unique.  It  lies  on  the  very  crown 
of  a  broad,  gently  sloping  mesa  and  is  central  to  upwards 
of  200,000  acres  of  choice  lands.  It  also  lies  on  the  line 
between  two  of  the  most  successful  water  companies  in 
the  county,  viz.,  the  great  Lake  Hemet  Water  Co.,  with  the 
highest  masonry  on  the  American  continent,  and  the  San 
Jacinto  and  Pleasant  Valley  Irrigation  District. 

It  has  a  good  water  system,  electric  lights  and  graded 
streets ;  its  beautiful  shade  trees,  handsome  buildings  and 
generally  well-kept  appearance,  presenting  a  pleasing  pic- 
ture to  the  traveler  as  he  alights  from  the  train. 

Among  the  more  prominent  buildings  is  the  High  School. 
The  Hemet  Grammar  School  is  also  a  fine  building.  The 
people  of  Hemet  take  a  special  interest  and  pride  in  their 
schools,    fully    realizing   the    importance   of   proper   mental 


451 

and  physical  training  for  ihe  young.  Large  shady  play- 
grounds, golf  links,  tennis  courts,  baseball  and  croquet 
grounds  are  at  the  disposal  of  the  students.  A  good  dis- 
trict school  is  located  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  Hemet 
Tract. 

The  Baptist  Church  is  a  neat  and  cmnmodious  edifice, 
while  the  Methodists  occupy  the  assembly  hall  of  the  High 
School   building. 

Hemet  has  a  good  hotel.  Hotel  Hemet  is  a  large  brick 
structure  of  beautiful  architectural  design,  and,  with  its  ex- 
pansive lawn,  beautiful  flowers  and  many  rare  trees  and 
shrubs,  would  be  a  credit  to  any  city  in  the  United  States. 
The  table  is  well  supplied  with  the  best  the  market  affords, 
fresh  fruits,  eggs,  butter,  cream  and  milk  being  secured 
daily  from  the  ranches  of  the  valley.  Guests  have  free  ac- 
cess to  convenient  golf  links  and  croquet  grounds,  while 
a  billiard  room  provides  indoor  amusement.  The  entire 
house  is  kept  at  a  comfortable  temperature,  winter  and 
summer. 

The  Hemet  Flour  Mills,  large  brick  buildings,  equipped 
with  the  latest  and  most  perfect  roller  process  machinery, 
turn  out  from  fifty  to  seventy-five  barrels  of  first-class 
flour   daily. 

The  "Hemet  News"  is  a  live,  eight-page  weekly  paper 
devoted  to  the  interests  of  Hemet. 

The  business  buildings  are  principally  of  brick,  the  larg- 
est of  which,  the  Whittier  Block,  contains  the  Bank  of 
Hemet,  the  general  offices  of  the  Hemet  Land  Co.  and  the 
Lake  Hemet  Water  Co.  The  stock  of  these  companies,  as 
well  as  that  of  the  bank,  is  held  by  the  citizens  of  Hcmel 
and  those  directly  interested  in  the  welfare  and  upl)uilding 
of  the  town  and  the  farming  country  surrounding  it.  Tliere 
arc  four  stores,  carrying  complete  lines  of  general  merchan- 
dise and  hardware,  and  first  class  meat  market  and  drug 


452 

slnrt'.  'Jlic  bnioiii  factorj-,  a  leading  industry  of  llic  val- 
ley, supplies  a  large  part  of  the  brooms  used  in  Southern 
California. 

The  I  Unui  Deciduous  Fruit  Association,  a  branch  of 
the  Southern  California  Deciduous  Fruit  Exchange,  which 
is  co-operative  in  character,  has  a  large  drying  establish- 
ment at  Hemet.  During  fruit  drying  season,  July  1st  to 
November  ist,  from  twtney-five  to  one  hundred  people  are 
employed  in  handling  the  fruit  of  the  valley. 

There  are  fully  3,000  people  within  a  radius  of  seven 
miles  of  Hemet.  The  town  itself  contains  a  population  of 
about  450.  Town  lots  for  residence  purposes  range  in 
price  from  $50  to  $125  each.  Business  lots  sell  for  $300  to 
$500  each.     There  are  no  saloons   in  Hemet. 

Along  the  different  forks  of  the  San  Jacinto  River  can 
be  found  the  picturesque  beauties  of  the  mountain  stream. 
The  water,  clear  as  crystal,  dashing  over  the  rocks  and 
through  the  steep-sided  canyons,  dodging  in  and  out  among 
the  trees  and  shrubs  that  thickly  line  the  margin,  offers 
such  charming  vistas  of  landscape  as  can  only  be  found 
in  mountain  regions.  Many  of  these  beautiful  nooks  may 
be  reached  by  from  one  to  three  hours'  drive  from  Hemet. 

The  North  Fork  Falls  is  a  favorite  resort  for  picnic  and 
pleasure  parties.  These  falls,  seven  in  number,  are  pro- 
nounced by  all  to  be  among  the  most  beautiful  to  be  found 
in  the  United  States.  The  waters  coming  from  the  melt- 
ing snows  on  San  Jacinto  Mountain  have  the  sparkling 
clearness  of  the  mountain  stream,  and,  in  their  course,  are 
dashed  over  one  precipice  after  another  until  they  are 
finally  plunged  into  a  great  stone  basin  or  bowl  formed  by 
the  towering  cliffs  on  every  side.  This  great  basin  is  lined 
with  stately  trees  and  the  rarest  shrubs,  ferns,  lichens  and 
mosses,  forming  a  beautiful  bower.  From  here  the  water 
escapes  through  a  narrow  opening  and  goes  tumbling  over 


453 

ihc  rocks  down  through  a  tliickly  wooded  canyon  to  the 
river  below.  During  the  winter  season  no  lovelier  spot  can 
be  found   for  a   picnic  or  pleasure  excursion. 

Higher  up  in  the  mountains,  at  an  elevation  of  5,250  feet. 
is  Straii'bci'ry  I  'alley,  the  famous  mountain  resort  of 
Southern  California.  This  valley  contains  several  hun- 
dred acres  and  is  surrounded  by  thickly  wooded  and  snow- 
capped peaks.  Flowing  through  it  is  Strawberry  Creek, 
another  of  those  charming  mountain  streams,  the  banks  of 
which  are  carpeted  with  wild  strawberry  vines,  from  which 
the  valley  takes  its  name.  Here  are  found  gigantic  forest 
trees,  peculiar  to  the  northern  portions  of  Michigan,  Wis- 
consin and  Minnesota,  with  a  climate  similar  to  those 
regions,  though  dryer  and  less  stormy.  Great  oaks,  ce- 
dars and  pines,  many  six  feet  in  diameter,  numerous  ferns 
and  many  varieties  of  wild  flowers,  lend  their  aid  in  form- 
ing a  charming  and  delightful  landscape.  The  fine  Idyll- 
wild  Hotel  is  located  in  this  valley ;  also  the  large,  lincly 
equipped  Sanitarium  of  the   California   Health   Resort   Co. 

The  Hciiict  Water  System. — The  Lake  Heniet  Water  Co. 
in  the  year  1890  began  the  construction  of  the  great  He- 
met  Dam  across  the  South  Fork  of  the  San  Jacinto  River, 
at  a  point  4,400  feet  above  sea  level  and  2,800  feet  above 
the  town  of  Hemet.  This  dam  is  the  largest  piece  of  solid 
masonry  in  the  West,  and  was  completed  in  1895.  It  is 
250  feet  long,  100  feet  thick  at  the  base  and  i22!/2  feet  high, 
or  about  the  height  of  an  ordinary  ten-story  "sky-scraper" 
building.  The  river  here  enters  a  deep  gorge  or  steep- 
sided  canyon,  flanked  on  either  side  with  almost  perpen- 
dicular cliffs  of  solid  granite.  A  wide  valley  extends  from 
this  point  back  several  miles  into  the  mountains,  forming 
the  bed  of  what  is  now  Lake  Hemet,  the  source  of  the 
water  supply  for  the  town  of  Hemet  and  the  Hemet  Tract. 

In  addition  to  the  great  reservoir,  the  Lake  Hemet  Wa- 


454 

tcr  To.  lias  ;i  ijarlially  (Icvil'ipcd  artesian  well  bolt,  sitii- 
alc'il  mar  llic  Iicad  of  llio  lake,  thai,  in  itself,  is  capable  of 
stipplN  inn  t-'iioiiuli  water  for  the  wbolc  tract.  Nineteen 
wrils  have  been  stnik  in  this  watcr-bcarinR  land,  and  have 
yielded  by  actual  lest  over  one  bnndred  inches  of  water 
continuous  flow. 

From  Hcmet  a  drive  should  be  taken  to  Cahuilla,  the 
interesting  Indian  village  described  by  H.  H.  in  '"Ramona," 
and  where  tile  licroine  of  that  part  of  her  story  that  de- 
scribes the  killing  of  her  hero  still  resides.  Good  teams 
can  be  had  from  the  livery.     The  distance  is  forty  miles. 

San  Jacinto,  forty-four  miles  from  San  Bernardino,  is 
the  second  city  in  the  county  in  population,  and  is  the 
oldest  of  the  towns  in  the  large  valley  which  bears  its 
name.  It  is  situated  near  the  foot  of  the  beautiful  San 
Jacinto  mountain,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  tract  of  semi- 
moist  land  admirably  adapted  for  general  farming  and  the 
growing  of  deciduous  fruits. 

The  town  is  incorporated  as  a  city  of  the  sixth  class, 
and  is  excellently  and  cheaply  governed.  It  has  thirty-six 
business  firms  of  all  kinds,  some  of  whom  occupy  fine 
brick  blocks.  It  has  a  good  progressive  newspaper  in  the 
IJ'cckly  Register,  edited  by  Arthur  G.  Mumm,  and  a  bank 
with  $100,000  capital.  The  churches  are  substantial  edifices 
and  the  schools  numerous  and  well  conducted. 

Its  export  is  largely  grain,  baled  hay — both  alfalfa  and 
wheat — wood,  fresh  and  dried  fruit  and  honey.  Fine  horses 
and  stock  are  raised  here  in  large  quantities.  An  electric 
light  plant,  fruit  cannery,  and  olive  oil  mills  have  just  been 
added  to  the  list  of  industries.  Hot  springs  and  mud  baths 
near  the  city  attract  many  infirm  and  suffering  people,  who 
find  relief  in  the  healing  qualities  of  the  baths.  The  Ma- 
sons, W.  of  W.,  Fraternal  Brotherhood.  Woodmen  Circle, 
etc.,  all  have  lodges. 


455 

The  hotels  are  the  Farmer  House,  rates  $1.50  per  day, 
Mrs.  Farmer,  proprietor;  and  the  Lockwood,  rates  $1.25 
per   day,    Mrs.    Lockwood,   proprietor. 

San  Jacinto  is  celebrated  in  H.  H.'s  "Ramona,"  and  in 
the  mountains  nearby  her  hero  met  his  death.  San  Jacinto 
Mountain,  11,500  feet  high,  is  reached  from  here,  good 
equipment  being  had  at  reasonable  rates  from  the  livery 
stable. 


Hauling  Lumber  from  Mount  San  Jacinto. 

The  San  Jacinto  Hot  Springs  have  recently  been  well 
developed  and  a  handsome  bath-house  erected,  under  the 
control  and  management  of  that  well-known  hotel  man, 
Colonel  Ritchie,  the  builder  of  the  Casa  Loma,  at  Redlands. 

At  old  San  Jacinto  still  resides  Mrs.  Jordan,  the  Aunt 
Ri  of  "Ramona."  She  is  a  genial,  kindly  lady,  glad  to  wel- 
come courteous  travelers  and  give  them  much  information 
of  her  personal   association  with  the   distinguished  author. 


CIIAI'TKR    XXXVII. 

I-KOM    I.OS    AN(;EI.ES    to    KKMflMK)   ON    TIIK    SANTA    FE. 

TIio  Santa  Fc  lias  a  line  from  Los  Angeles  to  Rcdondo. 
It  passes  through  a  heaiilifnl  section,  open  to  the  ocean, 
and  well   watered,  where  beautiful   homes  abound,  until 

IngJcwood  is  reached,  twelve  miles  from  Los  Angeles. 
This  is  an  attractive  little  town  in  the  center  of  the  fertile 
Centinela  Ranch,  of  13,000  acres,  with  some  handsome 
business  structures  and  a  number  of  pretty  homes.  There 
are  five  avenues  shaded  by  immense  eucalyptus  trees. 
Much  fruit  is  grown  around  here,  there  being  nearly 
a  thousand  acres  of  citrus  and  other  trees.  All  products 
except  citrus  fruits  are  raised  without  irrigation.  A  large 
brick-making  establishment  turns  out  a  superior  quality 
of  lirick,  whicli  is  in  great  demand.  The  soil  is  very 
fertile,  and  the  supply  o'f  water  for  irrigation — which  is 
already  large — is  about  to  be  greatly  increased  from  the 
Los  Angeles  River,  thus  making  possible  the  planting  of  a 
much    larger   area   to   valuable    horticultural    products. 

South  of  Inglewood,  toward  Redondo  Beach,  is  a  high 
mesa,  upon  which  many  persons  of  moderate  means  have 
made   productive  homes. 

Gardcna  is  noted  for  its  strawberries,  of  which  nearly 
i.ooo,coo  pounds  are  annually  shipped  to  Los  Angeles. 
The  lands  are  irrigated  from  flowing  wells  bored  on  the 
high  ground  between  Compton  and  Gardena. 

Moiteta  is  surrounded  by  fertile  lands  on  which  large 
crops  of  barley,  corn  and  hay  are  raised.  A  great  many 
new  orchards  of  deciduous  fruits  have  been  planted  dur- 
ing the  past  year  or  two.  HoAvard's  summit  is  in  the 
centre  of  the  large  holding  of  Messrs.  Howard  and  Bixbv. 


457 

Miicli  of  the  land  in  this  vicinity  is  given  U])  to  Iiarley; 
but  that  lying  to  tlie  west  is  irrigated  from  the  Los  An- 
geles River  and  sewer  system. 

Rcdoudo  is  twenty-two  miles  from  Los  Angeles  and  is 
one  of  the  chief  haunts  of  the  pleasure-seeker.  Tt  has  a 
wide  sandy  slope  with  a  terraced  ascent  to  the  town  site 
and  hotel. 

Redondo  was  established  by  the  co-operation  of  Captain 
J,  C.  Ainsworth  and  Mr.  R.  R.  Thompson. 

It  is  cosily  sheltered  from  winds  by  Point  \'incent,  Pa- 
los  Verdes  and  other  hills.  It  may  be  reached  directly 
from  San  Francisco  by  the  Pacific  Coast  Steamship  com- 
pany's   steamers. 

The  most  eminent  architectural  feature  of  Redondo  is 
its  hotel,  a  handsome  structure  of  four  stories,  erected  on 
a  high  terrace  that  grants  a  magnificent  visual  sweep  of 
the  sea.  A  richly  cultivated  garden  of  choice  flowers  and 
trees,  extending  down  near  the  very  lips  of  the  surf,  en- 
hances the  exterior  effect.  Ihe  hotel  is  built  in  the  shape 
of  the  capital  letter  Y,  which  arrangement  brings  the  sun- 
kis.sed  air  into  every  one  of  its  225  rooms.  The  court  is 
provided  with  rare  plants  and  is  a  charming  spot  for  in- 
valids. The  rooms  are  well  ventilated  and  heated  accord- 
ing to  the  demands  of  the  season  and  the  individual.  The 
entire  building  is  furnished  with  both  gas  and  incandescent 
lights  and  every  room  has  the  luxury  of  a  grate,  wdiile  the 
halls  and  lobby  are  thoroughly  heated  by   steam. 

There  is  the  inevitable  ball-room,  with  a  handsome  in- 
laid floor,  where  wa\'es  of  the  dance  compete  with  waves 
of  the  sea;  also  a  billiard  parlor  and  a  barber  shop. 

Being  an  annual  resort,  many  tourists  come  out  from  the 
bleak  East  in  December  to  taste  the  salt  spray  and  breathe 
the  rose  fragrance  of  Redondo  in  winter.  Surf  bathing 
may  be   enjoyed   here   all   tlie  vear   through,   and   as   there 


458 

is  less  raiiifnll  llian  in  llic  intorifir  country,  fishinp  niul 
hatliiiiK  may  he  indiiltjcd  in  willioiii  rcslriction  at  all  sea- 
sons. 

It  lias  one  of  llic  largest  hot  salt  water  tanks  on  our 
coast,  measuring  50x100  feet.  It  is  concrete,  and  has  a 
depth  varying  from  3  feet  to  to'/2  feet.  It  is  surrounded 
hy  hathers'  dressing  rooms  and  a  supply  of  porcelain  hath 
tubs  for  all  varieties  of  immersion.  There  are  also  trapeze 
and  other  appliances  to  tax  the  in.genuity  of  the  swimmer. 

For  those  who  prefer  a  drier  exercise  there  is  the  lawn 
tennis  court,  a  commodious  arrangement  lending  space  for 
three  simultaneous  games.  It  is  enclosed  by  a  high  fence 
and  accommodates  spectators  by  high  tiers  of  seats. 

There  is  a  marine  promenade  of  over  1,600  feet  in  length 
and  a  pebble  beach,  unequaled  in  beauty  anywhere  on  this 
coast.  This  beach  is  one  of  the  distinctive  features  of 
this  resort,  and  the  pebbles,  with  their  almost  satiny  polish, 
under  the  rushing  receding  waters,  present  an  opaline 
glow,  and  the  friction  of  their  myriads  with  the  splashing 
breaker  is  much  like  the  rippling  music  of  a  stream.  A 
handful  of  these  pebbles  has  proven  a  most  characteristic 
souvenir  of  Redondo  to  many  a  curio-gathering  traveler. 
Another  felicitous  possession  of  Redondo  is  its  sweet, 
pure  water,  which  is  drawn  from  wells  and  carried  in  a 
reservoir  having  a  capacity  of  one-half  million  gallons. 

There  are  a  number  of  elegant  residences  built  by  wealthy 
Southern  Californians,  who  prefer  the  sea  to  the  metrop- 
olis.    There  are  also  several  lodging  and  boarding  houses. 

Redondo's  commercial  importance  cannot  be  ignored,  as 
statistics  show  that  there  are  annually  shipped  over  80.000.- 
000  pounds  of  merchandise  by  way  of  this  port,  and  last 
year  about  20.000,000  feet  of  lumber.  Its  wharf  is  render- 
ing good  service  and  as  there  is  no  undertow  it  is  one  of 
the  most  easily  approached.     An  average  of  forty-five  ves- 


459 

sels  arrive  and  depart  from  it  eacli  month,  some  of  them 
being  deep  sea  vessels. 

Shipping  facilities  are  augmented  by  a  l)rick  railway 
depot,  car  shops,  round-house,  pumping  works,  stables 
and  a  warehouse.  Although  the  population  of  Redondo 
is  only  a  variable  two  thousand,  it  has  an  excellent  public 
school,  almost  every  kind  of  business  house  and  a  news- 
paper. 

Some  petroleum  deposits  have  been  found  and  are  being 
developed,  and  there  is  much  diatomacious  earth,  of  inter- 
est to  the  scientists  and  the  amateur  microscopist. 

The  carnation  gardens  of  Redondo  are  becoming  famous 
not  only  for  the  quantity  they  produce  but  the  remarkable 
quality  of  this  favorite  flower,  in  formation,  size,  and 
color,  which  reaches  the  greatest  perfection  in  the  soil  of 
these  extensive  gardens.  Ten  acres  of  carnations,  with 
extensive  hot  houses  where  the  finest  varieties  of  roses 
reach  their  utmost  beauty,  is  a  sight  well  worth,  in  itself, 
a  trip  to  Rodondo. 

As  a  fishing  resort  Redondo  is  noted.  It  is  a  picturesque 
sight  when  viewing  the  long  rows  of  men,  women  and 
children  with  their  forest  cvf  fish  poles  constantly  on  the 
flourish  at  different  points  of  the  perspective.  Visitors  wdio 
delight  in  yachting  and  trolling  for  fish  maj'  choose  from 
a  variety  of  "white  wings"  which  are  anchored  near  the 
piers. 

The  bathing  facilities  at  Redondo  Beach  arc  equal  to 
the  most  extensive  on  the  Pacific  Coast  in  general  conven- 
ience and  attractiveness.  There  are  two  bathing  pavilions, 
one  with  dressing  rooms  and  balconies  for  those  who  pre- 
fer a  frolic  in  the  surf,  the  other  having  an  immense  warm 
salt  water  swimming  tank  with  a  shute  and  plunge  acces- 
sories. An  electric  railway  also  connects  Redondo  with  Los 
Angeles.   Hourly   service. 


LiiAi-ri':k  XXXVI IF. 

TiiK  I  OS  a.\(;h;i.f.s,   san   PKimo  and  salt  lake  railway  to 

OLKNllALK,    LOXf;    I!KA<II.    SAN    I'EHkO   AND    I'ASAUF.NA. 

'Ilii-;  ijiipiilar  railway,  in  addition  to  its  main  line,  wliic'n 
runs  almost  parallel  with  the  Southern  Pacific  to  Pomona 
and  thence  to  Riverside,  also  diverges  from  Los  Angeles 
ill  throe  divisions,  viz.,  to  Long  Beach  and  San  Pedro,  to 
I'asackna  and  to  Glendale.  It  was  formerly  known  as  the 
Los  Angeles  Terminal,  hut  on  its  purchase  hy  Senator 
W.  A.  Clark  a  few  years  ago  its  name  was  changed. 

From  Los  Angeles  to  San  Pedro  the  country  traversed 
is  a  rich  agricultural  and  fruit  raising  section.  The  first 
l)lace  of  interest   reached   is  the 

Coiinly  Fanii. — Here  is  a  fine  and  well  erected  series  of 
hrick  linildings  which  have  been  established  for  care  of  the 
county's  poor.  The  station  overlooks  some  of  the  grounds, 
which  are  kept  by  the  inmates,  and  under  excellent  super- 
vision excellent  work  is  accomplished.  A  few  miles  fur- 
ther  along 

Clearwater  is  reached.  This  is  a  small  agricultural  set- 
tlement, which  gaiiLs  its  name  from  the  clear  water  flow- 
ing out  of  a  number  of  artesian  wells  recently  developed. 
This  region  is  well  watered  and  needs  no  irrigation. 

Signal  Hill  is  near  to  Long  Beach  and  is  so  named  be- 
cause it  has  often  been  u.sed  by  both  Indians  and  whites 
as  a  place  for  beacon  fires.  The  view  of  the  Los  .Angeles 
Valley  and  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  the  islands  from  this  hill 
is  exceedingly  interesting. 

Alamitos  is  a  growing  town,  situated  one  mile  from 
Long  Beach,  on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  and,  since  the 
advent  of  the  railway,  has  added  quite  a  number  of  thrifty. 


46 1 

industrious  people  to  its  already  numerous  population.  A 
large  sugar  factory  and  the  growing  of  acres  of  beets  for 
this  factory  are  the  great  industries  of  Alamitos. 

Los  Ccrrifus  Raiiclw. — The  first  grant  of  rich  valley 
land  along  San  Gabriel  and  New  Rivers  in  Los  Angeles 
and  Orange  counties,  and  extending  from  the  shore  of  the 
Pacific  Ocean  up  to  the  neighborhood  of  old  San  Gabriel 
Mission,  was  made  by  the  Spanish  Crown  early  in  the  cen- 
tury to  one  Nietos,  after  whom  was  named  the  valley  of 
Los  Nietos.  Among  the  ranchos  contained  in  this  grant 
were  Los  Cerritos,  Los  Alamitos,  Las  Bolsas,  La  Bolsa 
Chica,  La  Habra,  Santa  Gertrudes,  San  Antonio  and 
San  Pedro;  all  famed  for  their  abundant  pasture  and  flow- 
ing springs.  These  ranchos  at  a  later  day  came  to  be  di- 
vided up  among  the  heirs  of  Manuel  Nietos,  among  whom 
were  the  Cota  family,  whose  name  figures  in  the  genealogy 
of  some  of  the  most  prominent  of  Southern  California's 
native  families.  Don  Manuel  Dominguez,  who  when  he 
died  only  a  decade  ago.  was  ahnost  the  last  of  the  great 
Spanish  landed  proprietors  connected  In-  marriage  with 
this  family. 

Los  Cerritos  Rancho,  which  is  traversed  by  the  line  of 
the  Los  Angeles,  San  Pedro  and  Salt  Lake  Railway  from 
the  County  Farm  southward  to  Terminal  Lsland.  and  on 
which  are  located  the  prosperous  farming  settlements  of 
Clearwater,  South  Clearwater,  Bixby  Station,  and  Burnett, 
as  well  as  the  thriving  city  of  Long  Beach,  was  also  one 
of  the  possessions  of  the  Cota  family  and  was  purchased 
from  them  about  1842  by  Don  Juan  Temple,  a  Massachu- 
setts gentleman  who  came  to  the  Coast  with  the  Yankee 
hide  drogers,  a  young  man  in  search  of  fortune  and  adven- 
ture. Mr.  Temple  married  one  of  the  fair  daughters  of 
the  country  and  was  engaged  in  many  (.'Uterprises  both  in 
California   and    Mexico.     When    Mr.    'i"emi)le    died    in    1866 


4^2 

Suiillicrn    California    was    still    a    purely    pastoral    region, 
and  among  all  its  ranches  none  surpassed  in  fertility  tlii 
magnificent  home  ranch  of  Los  Ccrritos. 

The  old  adohc  house,  similar  to  many  in  the  country, 
was  built  by  Mr.  Temple  soon  after  he  purchased  the 
rancho.  Like  all  the  old  ranch  buildings  it  stands  on  an 
eminence  overlooking  the  valley  where  cool  ocean  breezes 
temper  warm  summer  days  to  the  fitting  enjoyment  of  the 
luxurious  Spanish  siesta.  This  old  ranch  house  was  for 
many  years  occupied  as  a  residence  by  Mr.  Jotham  Bixby, 
now  of  Long  Beach,  one  of  the  oldest  living  pioneers  of 
this  region  and  who  is  still  an  owner  of  a  large  portion  of 
this    famous   rancho. 

One  mile  further  along  is 

Long  Beach. — Born  in  the  days  of  the  boom,  for  several 
years  Long  Beach  remained  merely  a  summer  resort, 
very  much  thronged  during  three  months,  and  almost  de- 
serted for  the  rest  of  the  year.  In  1897  the  town  was  re- 
incorporated and  her  career  fairly  began.  A  position  better 
adapted  for  a  seaside  town  could  scarcely  be  imagined. 
The  beach  is  broad  and  level  (hence  the  name  of  the 
town),  and  when  the  tide  is  out  a  considerable  area  i- 
left  imcovered  between  the  cliff  and  the  sea.  The  most 
carefully  prepared  race  course  is  not  a  finer  driveway. 
It  feels  like  India  rubber,  smooth  as  asphalt,  pounded  firm 
and  even  by  the  waves.  Here  may  be  witnessed  in  all  its 
glory  that  unrivaled  phenomenon,  the  Pacific  surf.  The 
uniform  blowing  of  the  trade  winds  during  the  summer 
months  produces  a  heavy  swell  which  rolls  into  the  bay 
in  a  vast  but  gentle  undulation.  For  seven  miles  along  the 
city's  front  four  lines  of  breakers  thunder  upon  the  beach. 
In  the  foreground  are  groups  of  bathers,  including  the 
smallest  tots,  in  the  background  are  terraces  of  water  ris- 
ing higher  than  their  heads,  leaping  upward,  till  from  those 


463 

sitting  on  the  beach  the  horizon  is  obscured,  then  curling 
landward  they  break  into  wreaths  of  snowy  foam  and  fall 
into  a  hissing,  yeasty  wash  of  boiling  surf.  Clusters  of 
bathers,  male  and  female,  are  hoisted  several  feet  into  the 
air,  and  the  crash  of  the  breaking  comber  mingles  with 
their  shouts  and  laughter  as  they  are  tossed  by  the  playful 
giant. 

The  surf  is  crossed  by  a  pier  eighteen  hundred  feet  long, 
extending  out  to  deep  water  beyond  the  breakers.  Here 
is  a  wharf  for  the  use  of  a  fleet  of  pleasure  craft  by  which 
parties  are  taken  on  fishing  trips  or  on  excursions  to  various 
points  of  interest.  Good  angling  may  be  had  on  the  pier 
at  any  time,  and  occasionally  excitement  is  caused  by  a 
run  of  larger  fish.  Going  out  on  the  boats  one  may  have 
royal  sport  in  fishing.  Tuna,  jew-fish  and  sea-bass  are 
taken,  some  running  as  high  as  two  hundred  pounds. 

The  wind  that  produces  this  thundering  surf  seldom 
rises  above  a  good  sailing  breeze,  and  outside  the  breakers 
the  sea  is  generally  calm.  During  the  time  of  full  moon 
evening  excursions  on  the  sea  are  common. 

During  the  winter  now  the  place  is  crowded  like  any 
inland  resort.  Three  new  hotels  were  opened  last  winter, 
and  all  were  full.  There  was  scarcely  a  vacant  house  in 
town.  Hundreds  of  new  houses  have  since  been  built  to 
accommodate  the  increasing  crowd  of  newcomers. 

Long  Beach  is  the  home  of  the  Southern  California  Cha- 
tauqua  Assembly,  and  the  increasing  attendance  has  ren- 
dered necessary  the  building  of  a  large  new  auditorium. 
The  summer's  list  of  conventions  and  assemblies  covers 
the  greater  part  of  six  months. 

Long  Beach  is  also  becoming  the  favorite  place  for 
State  and  society  rei'.nions.  church  and  Simdny  school 
picnics,   and   public  excursions   of  all   kinds. 

The  growth   of  the  town  in  the  last  two  vears  has  been 


4f^ 

plK'iiDiiH-nal.  Iiiiildings  to  llic  vahit  of  $400,000  liavc  been 
completed  within  the  present  year,  1903;  buildings  to  half 
that  amomit  are  in  course  of  erection,  and  many  others 
arc  ])n)|)(isc(l.  Ten  miles  of  streets  have  been  graded 
witliin  tlic  year  costing  $30,000,  and  the  smoothness  of  those 
streets  is  ilic  praise  of  all  who  love  driving.  There  have 
also  been  laid  200,000  square  feet  of  cement  sidewalk  and 
40,000  feet  of  cement  curl). 

Its  schools  are  as  follows:  High  school  (a  fine  type  of 
Mission  architecture),  value  $22,000;  Grammar  School, 
value  $16,000;  Central,  value  $10,000;  West  Side  School 
(now  building),  value  $20,000;  Alamitos,  value  $4,000; 
Alamitos  Heights,  value  $1,200;  Burnett,  value  $1,000; 
Primary   building,   value   $900. 

Its  churches  are:  Methodist  Episcopal;  mcml)ers,  400; 
property  value,  $15,000.  Presbyterion ;  members,  216; 
property  value,  $10,000.  Baptist;  members,  igo;  property 
value,  $8,000.  Friends;  members,  200;  property  value,  $5,500. 
Episcopal;  members,  no;  property  value,  $5,000.  Congre- 
gational; members,  60;  property  value.  $10,000.  Metho- 
dist   Episcopal    South ;    members,    ;    property,    $ . 

Disciples;  members,  100;  property  value.  $4,000.  Two 
other  new  churches  are  now  in  the  process  of  building. 

There  are  no  saloons  in  Long  Beach. 

Local  manufactories  are  springing  up.  There  are  two 
gas  companies,  one  electric  company,  four  banks,  two 
lumber  companies,  a  canning  factory,  two  fruit  packing 
houses,  an  ice  factory,  and  a  manufactory  01  salt  from  sea 
water. 

The  city  has  thirty-five  miles  of  streets,  about  fifteen 
miles  of  cement  sidewalk;  two  semi-tropical  parks  com- 
prising si.xteen  acres,  a  mile  of  bluff  reserved  for  a  park, 
a  library  block,  a  city  hall,  a  reading-room  and  public 
library,   a   pier   eighteen   hundred    feet   long,   a   concert  pa- 


465 

vilion  measuring  200  feet  by  130  feet,  an  ocean  boulevard, 
and  a  beach  drive  ten  miles  in  length.  All  products  of  the 
temperate  and  semi-tropical  zones  are  grown  in  season, 
and  man}'   varieties   are  raised   all  the   year   round. 

Small  fruits  are  the  most  profiitable  crop,  being  easily 
handled  and  finding  a  ready  market  right  at  hand.  Mr.  R. 
E.  Linden,  who  lives  at  the  corner  of  Tenth  and  Linden 
streets,  has  raised,  on  one  acre  of  land,  strawberries  to  the 
value  of  $700  and  other  berries  to  the  value  of  $200  in  one 
season. 

The  outlook  for  further  growth  and  improvement  of 
Long  Beach  was  never  brighter.  Beside  the  daily  trains 
of  the  Southern  Pacific  and  Salt  Lake  routes,  the  cars 
of  the  Pacific  Electric  Railway  Company  make  the  run 
of  twenty  miles  from  Los  Angeles  in  thirty  minutes.  These 
cars  leave  Long  Beach  every  fifteen  minutes.  The  route 
is  practically  an  air  line  and  the  equipment  is  of  the  finest. 
This  company,  in  which  H.  E.  Huntington  is  most  prom- 
inently interested,  has  also  local  franchises  in  Long  Beach, 
and  will  soon  have  its  cars  running  on  some  of  the  prin- 
cipal streets. 

As  in  almost  every  other  place  in  California  at  present, 
the  building  contractors  of  Long  Beach  have  their  hands 
full.  Pretty  homes  of  varied  styles  in  architecture  are 
springing  up  everywhere  along  the  broad  streets,  all  of 
which  are  graded.  Three  fine  business  blocks  are  now  in 
course  of  erection  and  a  new  hotel  is  projected,  in  addition 
to  the  three  now  running,  to  cost  one  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  dollars.  Just  west  of  the  long  pier  stands  one  of 
the  finest  bathing  establishments  on  the  coast,  recently 
completed  at  a  cost  of  eighty  thousand  dollars.  The  build- 
ing is  a  combination  of  Grecian  and  Colonial  and  has  a 
facade  of  three  hundred  and  twenty  feet,  facing  the  white 
and    silver    shimmer    of   the    lireakcrs.      The   tiled    roof    is 


466 

broken  by  towers.  Beyond  the  central  entrance  from  llic 
peristyle  is  a  bathing  pool  sixty  by  one  hundred  and  twenty 
feet  in  size,  with  a  spacious  gallery  above  for  the  use  of 
spectators.  In  the  building  are  also  two  hundred  and  fifty 
rooms  for  hot  tub  and  Hammam  baths.  All  laundry  work 
is  done  on  tlic  premises.  The  west  end  of  the  bath  house 
is  occupied  by  the  ladies'  department,  with  a  plunge  twenty 
by  forty  feet,  eighty-one  dressing  rooms,  parlors,  etc.  Con- 
nected with  the  establishment  is  a  bowling  alley  with  mod- 
ern equipment.  A  wide  staircase  will  soon  be  completed 
leading  from  the  two-story  pavilion  at  the  shore  end  of 
the  pier,  directly  to  the  bath  house.  Every  day  in  the  year, 
alike  in  June  and  January,  may  be  seen  many  bathers  dis- 
porting in  the  surf.  The  air  is  mild  and  many  residents  take 
a  morning  dip  as  many  times  as  there  are  days  in  the  year's 
calendar.  Two  thousand  people  can  be  accommodated  at 
the  bathhouse  in  a  day,  between  the  hours  of  seven  a.  m. 
and  ten  p.  m. 

An  attractive  feature  are  the  band  concerts  at  the  pier 
jtavilion  every  afternoon  and  evening.  Three  nights  in  the 
week  throughout  the  year  dances  are  held  in  the  same 
pleasant  spot.  The  floor  space  is  one  hundred  and  seventy 
by  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet,  and  though  once  in 
a  while  rain  or  fog  may  be  outside,  the  drop  curtains  and 
awnings  cause  the  merry  waltzers  to  forget  discomfort 
and  care.  Pacific  Park,  fronting  the  sea,  is  another  of  the 
city's  greatest  attractions.  Filled  with  palms  and  other 
tropical  vegetation,  its  lawns  are  at  all  seasons  gay  with 
roses  and  blossoms.  The  mounted  skeleton  of  an  enor- 
mous whale  here  is  always  surrounded  by  a  crowd  of  won- 
dering visitors. 

The  population  of  Long  Beach  has  doubled  in  two  years, 
and  a  recent  official  census  gives  the  city  a  population  of 
four  thousand  three  hundred,  and  the  number  of  transient 


467 

winter  and  summer  visitors  must  be  twice  that  man3^ 
The  assessment  roll  of  the  city  has  nearly  doubled  in  the 
same  space  of  time,  and  the  year  ending  March  i,  1902, 
showed  an  expenditure  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 
dollars  for  improvements.  Among  other  progressive  move- 
ments a  new  outfall  system,  to  cost  thirty  thousand  dol- 
lars, is  soon  to  be  constructed. 

Two  miles  beyond  Long  Beach  is  Terminal  Island,  a 
place  of  growing  importance  as  the  seaside  home  of  many 
wealthy  Los  Angelenos.  Here  is  Ye  Terminal  Tavern,  a 
good  and  well  kept  hostelry.  Yachting,  boating,  bathing, 
gathering  of  sea  shells,  mosses,  etc.,  are  indulged  in  the 
year  round. 

The  new  wharf  extends  some  six  hundred  feet  into  the 
ocean,  making  an  admirable  place  for  fishing. 

A  new  improvement  is  the  promenade  walk  along  the 
beach  and  extending  some  several  miles  towards  Long 
Beach.  It  is  handsomely  lighted  with  incandescent  lights 
the  entire  length,  making  a  very  beautiful  effect  at  night 
time. 

San  Pedro  and  its  harbor  have  already  been  described. 
Vessels  are  continually  going  and  coming,  laden  with 
products  from  China,  Australia,  Japan,  East  Indies  and  all 
parts  of  the  world.  iNIillions  of  feet  of  lumber,  tons  of 
merchandise,  thousands  of  gallons  of  wines,  and  many 
other  commodities  in  as  great  quantity  pass  through  this 
port  annually,  making  it  the  most  important  on  the  South- 
ern coast. 

The  Pasadena  Division  conveys  the  passenger  over  prac- 
tically the  same  route  as  that  described  in  the  ride  from 
Los  Angeles  to  Pasadena,  on  the  Kite-Shaped,  Track. 

One  of  the  most  important  and  imposing  objects  on  the 
way  is  the  world  famous 

Ravmond    Hotel. — It    is    not    necessary    that    one    should 


468 

say  the  Raymond  Hotel.  "ilic  Raymond"  is  enough. 
Everyone  knows  what  you  mean.  There  is  but  one  Notre 
Danic,  but  one  Acropolis,  but  one  Colossus,  and  so  there  is 
hiu  line  "Raymond,"  when  Southern  California  is  men- 
tioned. 

The  charms  of  Pasadena  have  before  been  descrilx:d — in- 
deed a  thousand  pens  have  vied  one  with  another  to  ex- 
press in  words  the  emotions  of  pleasure  and  delight  this 
beautiful  "Crown  of  ihc  Valley"  city  has  awakened.  But 
many  are  not  aware  that  had  it  not  been  for  "The  Ray- 
mond" many  of  these  "tribute  writers"  would  never  have 
seen  the  glories  of  Pasadena, — might  never  have  heard  of 
the  delights  of  the  protecting  "mother  mountains," — might 
never  have  seen  the  Land  of  the  Sun-Down  Sea,  for 
Messrs.  Raymond  and  \\  hitconib,  when  they  decided  to 
bring  their  thousands  of  cultured,  refined  and  traveled 
tourists  to  Southern  California,  determined  to  make  a 
home  for  them  whilst  here.  A  careful  survey  of  the  land 
was  made,  and  the  San  Gabriel  Valley  chosen.  It  is  a  land 
where  God  smiles  perpetually  through  a  cobalt  sky  upon 
the   perpetually   blooming  flowers,   exquisite   exotic   shrubs 


469 


A  Pasadena  Residence. 


and  plants,  where  fly  and  warble  sweet  singing  birds,  and 
where  children  and  invalids,  old  and  young,  well  and  weak, 
may  alike  be  out-of-doors  in  invigorating  sunshine  almost 
every  day  in  the  year. 

Five  years  ago  the  Raymond  was  burned  down.  Three 
years  later  Mr.  Walter  Raymond  erected  the  new  hotel, 
which,  under  the  management  of  General  Wentworth,  is 
already   world   famed. 

About  a  mile  from  "The  Raymond"  and  nine  miles  from 
Los  Angeles,  the  Athens  of  Southern  California  is 
reached,  900  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

Pasadena  is  an  Indian  word  meaning  both  "key  of  the 
valley"  and  "crown  of  the  valley."  As  it  is  located  mainly 
on  high  points  the  interpretation  "crown  of  the  valley"  was 
chosen  as  the  most  fitting,  and  hence  it  is  universally  used 
to-day  by  all  who  come  to  criticise  their  romancing  friends, 
only  to  remain  and  worship  at  the  same  shrine  of  beauty. 
For  the  beauty  of  Pasadena  is  undeniable.  Materially,  so- 
cially and  morally  its  standard  leads  all  southern  cities. 

The  total  history  of  Pasadena  covers  a  period  of  thirty- 
one  years,  in  which  time  the  sheep  pasture  of  1873,  once 
purchased  by  a  few  capitalists  of  Indiana  for  six  dollars 
per  acre,  has  blossomed  into  a  city  of  the  fifth  class  and 


470 

is  now  one  great  cluster  of  Licanlifnl  homes,  quite  sugges- 
tive of  gems  ni  a  crown. 

Like  all  buoyant  cities  of  the  south,  Pasadena  lias  gone 
through  three  stages  of  development — the  pastoral,  the  agri- 
cultural and  the  horticultural. 

But  towering  above  the  surrounding  towns  in  population 
as  in  point  of  altitude  it  is,  in  its  rapid  growth,  taking  the 
lead  in  disrobing  of  vineyard  and  orchard,  for  finding  sites 
for  its  homes,  only  to  put  the  perennial  green  of  its  mantle 
upon  the  surrounding  lands  of  this  fertile  valley. 


v^- 


•ij^^lB-:zv^ 


Typical  Pasadena  Residences. 

From  a  little  horticultural  town  it  has  grown  to  a  pros- 
perous city  of  about  17,000  population,  with  m.anifold  in- 
dustries, and  offering  pre-eminent  facilities  for  the  edu- 
cation of  its  j^outh. 

There  is,  first  of  all,  a  fine  public  library,  whose  average 
annual  circulation  of  books  has  been  52,000  volumes,  but 
with  a  recent  purchase  its  shelves  hold  now  about  125,000 
volumes.  All  appointments  are  modern  and  the  s\-stems 
used  are  up-to-date  with  cataloguing  according  to  Cutter's 
rules  and  classification  according  to  Dewey.  This  library 
occupies  its  own  home  in  a  charming  gothic  building  of 
pale  green  sandstone  with  reddish  gray  trimmings.  It  is 
centrally  situated  on  Raymond  avenue  on  the  north  edge 
of  the   beautiful   Library   Park,   and   its   well   lighted  and 


471 

roomy  interior  presents  all  facilities  for  comfortable  men- 
tal research.  The  nucleus  for  this  library  was  first  estab- 
lished ten  years  ago  by  a  stock  company  as  a  private  cir- 
culating library,  but  in  1887  it  was  purchased  by  the  city, 
having  at  this  time  about  4,000  books.  It  is  now  supported 
in  the  most  popular  form  by  a  tax  levy  of  five  cents  on 
one  hundred   dollars'   worth   of  property. 

The  grounds  around  the  building  include  about  300 
square  feet,  the  gift  of  Mr.  Charles  Legge,  and  are  appro- 
priately ornamented  by  walnut,  pepper  and  palm  trees. 

The  librarian  is  Miss  Nellie  Russ,  with  an  able  corps 
of  assistants. 

Hotel  Green  is  one  of  the  greatest  caravansaries  of  the 
world.  Its  architectural  charm  is  produced  by  a  very 
harmonious  blending  of  the  Spanish  and  Moorish  styles, 
and  its  massive  fireproof  construction  of  iron,  stuccoed 
brick  and  stone  carried  to  the  height  of  five  stories,  makes 
the  most  imposing,  as  well  as  the  handsomest  of  Pasa- 
dena's public  buildings.  Its  many  balconies,  observatories, 
supporting  pillars  and  broad  arches,  with  the  roof  tilting 
suggestive  of  the  Missions,  gives  it  an  ensemble  wholly 
native  and  characteristic  of  Southern  California. 

In  its  educational  facilities  Pasadena  is  unequaled.  Not 
only  has  it  an  excellent  public  school  system,  with  high 
schools  and  kindergartens,  but  it  also  has  the  Throop  Poly- 
technic Institute,  founded  in  1891  by  the  Hon.  Amos  G. 
Throop,  formerly  an  honored  citizen  of  Chicago,  who  came 
to  spend  the  remaining  years  of  his  life  in  the  sunlit  pre- 
cincts of  Pasadena.  Soon  after  his  arrival  he  made  known 
his  plans,  and  set  apart  $200,000  for  the  purpose  of  found- 
ing an  institute  that  should  give  manual  training  to  both 
sexes. 

The  Throop  Polytechnic  is  the  educational  pride,  as 
''Father  Throop"  as  he  was  familiarly  called,  was  the  be- 


-*>    ^»    l^ 


.  t-  fc  --^  ,,'->*      -e-        »^       v^  -^*3 


i73 

loved  of  Pasadena.  His  deatli  in  the  earlier  part  of  1894 
was    nniversally    lamented. 

There  are  two  buildings  erected,  fully  equipped  with 
everything  necessary  for  the  manual  training  of  the  young. 
No  such  school  in  the  United  States  has  better  and  more 
improved  machinery,  and  the  accomplished  president.  Dr. 
W.  A.  Edwards,  working  with  his  capable  faculty  and 
board  of  trustees,  is  making  of  it  an  institution  of  which 
Southern   California  should   universally  be   proud. 

Pasadena  is  essentially  a  city  of  homes  and  churches. 
No  saloon,  gambling  den  or  brothel  finds  place  within  its 
carefully  guarded  precincts,  so  that  its  homes  are  undis- 
turbed, and  the  education  of  its  youth  unperverted.  To 
ride  down  Marengo  Avenue,  Colorado  Street,  the  world- 
famed  Orange  Grove  Avenue  and  a  score  of  other  ex- 
quisitely beautiful  shaded  avenues,  streets  and  drives  is  a 
treat  that  the  most  stolid  and  indifferent  would  enjoy. 
Few  cities,  in  internal  arrangements,  are  so  beautiful,  and 
the  close  proximity  to  the  rugged  Arroyo  Seco,  the  delec- 
table Sierra  Madre,  the  dimpling  San  Rafael  Hills,  and  the 
far-reaching  Valley  of  the  San  Gabriel,  render  the  effect 
of  city  and  surroundings   sesthetically  irresistable. 

Fruit  drying,  canning  and  crystallizing  are  carried  on 
extensively  in  Passadena,  and  there  are  also  several  ex- 
tensive and  important  manufacturing  establishments. 

North  Pasadena  is  independent  of  the  main  centre, 
having  its  own  water  supply,  a  school  house  at  the  cost 
of  $20,000  supporting  300  children,  and  a  fair  share  of 
handsome  homes.  The  highest  point  of  the  entire  citj'  lies 
back  of  La  Pintorecsa  Hotel,  a  knoll  rising  between  Ray- 
mond and  Fair  Oaks  avenues.  From  this  point  one  may 
view  the  entire  city  and  nearly  all  of  La  Canyada,  a  wide 
verdant  slope  to  the  northwest  of  the  city.  It  has  a  mild 
sunny   exposure   and   is   framed   away   from   winds   by   the 


474 


A  Pasadena  Residence. 

Verdugo,  Sierra  Madrc  and  San  Rafael  ranges.  Some 
of  the  cultivated  fruit  lands  number  hundreds  of  acres. 
There  are  many  lovely  homes  surrounded  by  orchards  of 
oranges,  lemons,  prunes,  apricots,  olives,  berries,  almonds, 
besides  all  varieties  of  vegetables  raised  without  irrigation. 

There  arc  few  hotels  in  .Southern  California  that  can 
boast  such  a  location  as  can  La  Pintoresca.  Situated  on 
the  heights  above  Pasadena,  so  that  the  whole  of  that  beau- 
tiful earthly  "Saint's  Rest"  is  spread  out,  at  its  feet,  sur- 
rounded In-  the  San  Rafael  Hills,  the  majestic  Sierra 
Madre,  and  in  the  distance  the  Mission  and  the  Puente 
Hills,  it  is  absolutely  sheltered  from  any  storms  or  fierce 
winds.  The  beauty  of  the  San  Gabriel  Valley  I  have  before 
described.  From  the  verandas  of  the  hotel  *this  exquisite 
vista  is  clearly  seen.  In  its  appointments  La  Pintoresca 
ranks  as  one  of  the  first-class  tourist  hotels  of  Southern 
California.  Its  reputation  has  always  been  good  from  its 
first  season,  and  the  fact  that  refined  and  cultured  people 
return  to  it  each  year,  and  send  their  friends  to  it,  is  proof 
sufficient  that  it  more  than  holds  its  own. 

The  Glcndale  Division  runs  through  a  fine  citrus  and 
deciduous  fruit  valley  to 

Glcndale,  founded  in  i8S6,  a  picturesque,  healthful  and 
beautiful  town,  with  churches,  school  houses,  stores,  etc. 
There  arc  numerous  orange  and  lemon  groves  and  vine- 


475 

yards,  and  one  of  the  largest  peach  orchards  in  the  State. 
A  little  further  on  is 

I'crdugo  Park  and  Canyon,  one  of  the  most  popular  pic- 
nic places  of  the  Los  Angeles  people.  The  canj-on  is 
rugged,  grand  and  picturesque,  and  a  most  enjoyable  day 
ma}'  be  spent  in  botanizing,  gathering  ferns,  mosses,  etc., 
and  climbing  the  steep  and  rocky  sides  of  the  precipitous 
canj-on. 


CHAPTER    XXX IX. 

THE   IJiSAin'ANTAGES. 

"Yes!"  exclaims  the  careful  and  conservative  man  or 
woman,  "1  have  read  all  you  have  written ;  1  hear  all  you 
say  of  the  advantages  of  coming  to  Southern  California,, 
but  you  have  not  said  one  word  as  to  the  disadvantages ! 
How  about  the  fleas,  the  earthquakes,  the  bed-bugs,  the 
sharks,  the  heat,  the  sand  storm,  the  insect  pests,  or  your 
snakes,  the  tarantulas,  the  stingarees,  the  octopuses,  the 
trees,  frost,  the  dust  of  summer,  the  fogs,  the  small  popula- 
tions, etc.,  etc." 

That  is  right,  my  conservative  friend,  I'm  glad  to  write 
a  little  upon  the  disadvantages  and  my  candidness  and  hon- 
esty upon  these  shall  be  commensurate  with  my  honor  and 
truthfulness  as  to  the  advantages. 

Fleas. — There  are  fleas  in  plenty.  We  joke  one  another 
about  going  down  to  the  beach  and  picking  up  a  handful 
of  sand  half  of  which  jumps  off.  It  is  useless  to  deny  that 
many  people  are  much  annoyed  by  them,  but  it  is  equally 
true  that  in  a  little  while  not  one  person  in  a  hundred 
thousand  ever  think  of  them.  The  person  either  becomes 
immune  or  the  fleas  recognize  him  (or  her)  as  an  old 
timer  and  seeks  fresher  fields  to  pasture  upon.  As  far  as 
my  own  personal  experience  goes  I  can  truthfully  say  I 
am  not  bothered  by  a  flea  once  a  year. 

Earthquakes. — Yes,  now  and  again  we  have  earthquakes. 
I  could,  if  I  cared  to,  give  a  history  of  all  the  earthquakes 
in  Southern  California,  since  the  tragic  one  that  destroyed 
the  tower  of  the  San  Juan  Capistrano  Mission.  I  have 
experienced  several.     A  few  years  ago  six  drunken  Indian 


477 

women  were  killed  by  the  falling  upon  them  of  an  adobe 
wall,  which  was  shaken  down  by  an  earthquake.  Yet  it 
is  equally  true  that  there  are  more  lives  lost  in  one  year,  and 
every  year,  by  sunstroke,  in  any  one  of  the  large  Eastern 
cities  than  have  been  slain  by  all  the  known  earthquakes 
of  California  for  over  a  century  and  a  quarter.  Hence  as 
a  practical  evil  no  one  who  has  remained  long  in  South- 
ern California  ever  gives  the  earthquake  a  thought. 

Bed-bugs. — Here  as  elsewhere  bed-bugs  are  indications 
of  indifferent  housekeeping.  There  are  absolutely  no  bed- 
bugs in  a  well  kept  house,  and  housekeepers  familiar  with 
the  Eastern,  Southern,  and  Middle  States  assure  me  that 
they  have  no  more  trouble  in  this  regard  in  Southern  Cali- 
fornia than  in  these  other  portions  of  the  United  States. 

Snakes  and  Tarantulas  may  be  placed  in  the  same  cate- 
gory. I  have  walked,  explored,  ridden  and  driven  over 
roads,  mountain  trails,  forests,  up  streams,  etc.,  for  over 
twenty  years  in  and  around  California  and  have  never  yet 
experienced  the  slightest  danger  from  snakes,  tarantulas  or 
.scorpions.  There  is  no  doubt  they  exist,  and  in  large  num- 
bers, too,  yet  the  former  invariably  flee  from  the  presence  of 
man,  and  the  hunt  for  the  latter  for  souvenirs  is  proceeding 
so  rapidly  as  to  drive  them  from  all  nearness  to  mankind. 

StUigarees  and  Octopuses. — The  former  are  the  sting  ray 
of  a  fish  that  has  sharped  barbed  spines  that  occasionally 
stick  into  the  foot  of  the  bather.  When  the  hundreds  of 
thousands  of  bathers  are  considered  and  that  fact  that  not 
once  in  ten  years  do  you  ever  hear  of  the  hurting  of  any 
one  by  a  "stingaree,"  there  is  little  need  to  fear  them, 
though  it  must  be  conceded  that  they  do  exist.  So  also 
with  the  octopus  and  the  shark,  but  as  far  as  T  can  learn 
there  has  never  been  a  case  of  injury  to  any  human  being 
by  one  except  in  the  lively  imagination  of  a  novelist,  that 
is,   of  course,   in   Southern   California  waters.     I   have  no 


478 

doubt  but  ibat  in  tropical  seas  there  is  flangcr  from  those 
two  devil-fishes. 

The  Ilcat  of  Summer. — As  I  have  shown  in  the  chapter 
on  climate  the  dread  of  California's  summer  heat  is  purely 
imaginary.  I  have  sufifered  more  from  heat  in  Chicago 
New  York,  Kansas  City  for  a  few  days,  than  from  years  of 
residence  in  Southern  California.  There  are  a  few  hot 
days  each  year,  but  even  then  the  nights  are  cool. 

The  Sand  Storms  are  here,  but  rare.  Now  and  again  a 
hot  sand  storm  will  blow  up  from  the  Mohave  or  the  Colo- 
rado Desert.  When  one  comes,  the  air  is  hot  and  laden 
with  tiny  particles  of  sand  that  penetrate  everything.  In 
some  portions  of  Southern  California  these  storms  never 
come,  and  in  the  others  they  last  seldom  as  long  as  three 
days.  Thej'  are  exceedingly  uncomfortable  while  they  last, 
and  those  who  cannot  escape  to  the  seashore  or  mountains 
do  not  have  an  enjoyable  time.  But  their  discomforts  are 
much  magnified  and  ihcy  occur  so  seldom  as  practically  to 
not  count  as  an  offset  to  the  advantages. 

The  Insect  Pests. — These  exist  elsewhere  as  well  as  Cali- 
fornia. Spraying  or  fumigating  the  trees  once  a  year  keep- 
them  well  under  subjection.  I  have  60  trees  on  my  homo 
place  in  Pasadena.  Their  verdure,  foliage  and  flowers  are 
a  perpetual  source  of  joy,  and  their  fruit  a  great  addition 
to  the  supplies  of  our  table.  Last  year  (1903)  they  cost  me 
$7.00  for  fumigation,  and  had  I  done  it  myself  the  cost 
would  have  been  not  one  third  of  that  amount. 

Frost. — Three  years  ago  a  frost  damaged  many  trees  in 
a  limited  area  in  the  region  of  Riverside.  No  trees  were 
killed  and  the  major  portion  of  the  crop  was  not  injured. 
This  is  the  most  serious  frost  Southern  California  has  ever 
known. 

Tlie  dust  of  summer  is  annoying  when  you  get  into  th< 
country   and  away   from  the   watered   streets  of  the   city. 


479 

Otherwise  one  would  scarcely  know  there  was  any  dust, 
for  Southern  CaHfornia  cities  are  as  well  kept  in  this  re- 
gard, and  with  less  direct  expense  to  the  resident,  than  in 
most  Eastern  cities. 

Fogs  here  are  entirely  different  from  Eastern  fogs.  They 
float  in  from  the  ocean  at  night  time,  and  are  not  cold, 
though  cool  They  invariably  disappear  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, seldom  remaining  as  late  as  nine  o'clock.  Thus,  in  sum- 
mer, they  cool  the  night  air  and  give  one  the  necessary 
temperature  for  the  sweetest  and  most  refreshing  sleep. 
After  one  season  few  Easterners  or  Soutlierners  complain  of 
the  fog.  Indeed  they  get  to  look  for  it,  and  regard  it  as  a 
benefaction  and  favor. 

Tlie  Sinallness  of  the  Population. — In  reply  to  this,  I 
but  say  as  did  the  Los  Angeles  Times  recently  to  a  fault- 
finder:  "We  c?in  assure  you,  madam,  that  every  man  in 
Southern  California  is  doing  his  best  under  the  latv  and 
constitution  to  remedy  this  defect."  As  population  flows  in 
constantly  from  all  parts  of  the  world  it  will  not  be  long 
before  this  cannot  be  pleaded  as  one  of  the  disadvantages 
of  life  in  Southern  California. 

Thus  to  the  best  of  my  knowledge  and  recollection  I  have 
presented  every  natural  disadvantage  to  living  in  Southern 
California.  To  those  who  have  spent  two  or  three  years 
there  while  some  of  these  things  are  still  real  to  them 
they  have  lost  all  power  to  disturb  the  mind.  They  are 
so  small  and  insignificant  compared  with  the  many  and  great 
advantages  as  to  be  unworthy  of  consideration,  and  there- 
fore have  no  weight  whatever  in  the  scale. 


CHAPTER    XL. 

.       SPANISH    NAMES,  THKIK    MEANING   ANIJ  I-KONCNC  I ATION. 

Name.  Meaning.  Pronunciation. 

Adobe,  sun-dried  brick .\li-do'-bay. 

Ague  Tibia,  warm  water .Ah'-vvah  Tce'-bee-ah. 

Alameda,    shady    walk     (from 

alamos,  poplars)   Ah-lah-may'-dah. 

Alamitos,   small   cottonwoods.  ..Mi-lah-mee'-tos. 

Alcatraz,  pelican .Al-cah-trahs'.    (In  Mexico  z 

is  pronounced  like  double 

J.    in     Spain    like    th     in 

think.) 

Albuquerque    Ahl-boo-kcr'kay. 

Alejandro,  Alexander,  or  Ales- 

andro Ah-Iay-hahn'-dr5. 

Aliso  City,  sycamore  city .\li-lce'-so. 

Almaden,  mine Ai-mah-den'. 

Alturas,  heights  .Ahl-too'ras. 

Alvardo,  Spanish  explorer -Xhl-vah-rah'-do. 

Amador,  lover   \h-mah-dor'. 

Anita,  Anna   Ah-nee'-tah. 

Antonio,  Anthony  \n-to'-nee-6. 

Arguello.  family  name Ahr-gwel'-lo. 

Arroyo  Scco,  dry  ravine   .A.r-row'yo      Say'-co      (with 

the  r  strongly  trilled.) 

Asfalto,  asphalt   .Vhs-fall'-to. 

Atascadero,  bog \h-tas-ka-dayr-o. 

Ballena,  whale Bahl-yee'-na. 

Balso  de  Chamisal   Rahl-so  day  Sham-ee-sal. 

P>ella  Vista,  beautiful  view.  . .  .P>el-la  Vees'-ta. 
r.crnalillo,  little  Bernal  Behr-nal-eel'-yo. 


48i 

Name.  Meaning.  Pronunciation. 

Bernardino,  little  Barnard Behr-nahr-dee'-no. 

Boca,  mouth   Bo'-cah. 

Bonita,  pretty  Bo-nee'tah. 

Buena  Vista,  good  view Bway'-nah  Vees'-tali. 

Cahuilla,  Indian  tribe  name.  . .  . Kah-wee'-ah. 

Cajon,  large  chest  or  box Cah-hon'. 

Calabasas,  pumpkins Kahl-a-bahs'-sahs. 

Calaveras,  skulls   Cah-lah-vay'-rahs. 

Qiliente,  hot   Cah-lee-en'-tay. 

Compo,  country  or  field Cahm'-po. 

Canyon  Diablo,  Devil  Canyon. Cahn-yon'   Dee-ah'-blo. 

Capistrano,  a  saint's  name Cah-pees-trah'-no. 

Carlos,   Charles    Car'-los. 

Carmencita,   little   Carmen Car-men-see'-tah. 

Casa  Blanca,  white  hou.se Cah'-sah    Blahn'-ca. 

Cayucos,  canoes  Ki-you'-kos. 

Centinela,  sentinel   Sen-tee-nay'-lah. 

Centro,  center Sain'-tro. 

Cerrillos,  little  hills    Ser-reel'-yos. 

Chico,  small   Chee'-ko. 

Chino,  curly   Chee'-no. 

Cienyga,  marsh  See-en'ah-gah. 

Cojo,  cripple  Ko'-ho. 

Colorado,  red   K6-l6-rah'-do. 

Conejo,  rabbit  Ko-nay'-ho. 

Contra  Costa,  opposite  coast.  .  .Kon'-trah  Kos'-tah. 

Cordero,   lamb    Ko-ro-nah'-do. 

Coronado,  crowned   (named  for 

explorer)    Kor-dayr'-o. 

Corral    Kor-rahl'. 

Corralitos,  small  enclosures.  . .  .Knr-rTlil-ee'-tos. 

Cota,   jacket    Kn'-tah. 

Covina,  small  cane   Ko-vec'-nah. 


482 

Name.  Meaning.  Pronunciation. 

Coyote,  prairie  \V(j]f   Ko-yo'-tay. 

Crcston,  big  chest  Krcs'-ton. 

Del  Norte,  of  the  nortli   Del  Nor'-tay. 

Del  Sur,  of  the  south Del  Soor'. 

De  Luz,  of  light  Day  Luce. 

Descanso,  resting  places  Day-skan'-so. 

Dos  Palmas,  two  palms Dos  Pahl'-mahs. 

Dulzura,  sweetness  Dool-zoo'-rah. 

El  Cajon,  the  large  box  El  Kah-hon'. 

El  Capitan,  the  captain  El  Kah-pee-tahn'. 

El  Casco,  the  hamlet El  Kahs'-ko. 

El  Dorado,  the  gilced   El  D5-rah'-d6. 

El  Morro,  the  castle  El  Mon'-tay. 

El  Monte,  the  hill  El  M6r-ro. 

El  Paso,  the  pass  El  Pah'-s5. 

El  Toro,  the  bull   El  T6'-r6. 

Encinitas,  evergreen  oaks En-see-nee'-tas. 

Encino,   oak    En-seen'-o. 

Escondido,  hidden . .  .Es-c6n-di'-do. 

Espada,  sward   Es-pah'-dah. 

Estero,  salt  marsh    Es-tayr'-o. 

Estrella,   star    Es-trel'-ya. 

Farallones,  small  islands,  high, 

rough  and  difficult  of  access. Fah'-ral-yon'-es. 

Fresno,  ash  tree   Fres'-no. 

Galisteo,  a  name   Gah-lis-tay'-o. 

Garbanza,  wild  pea  Gar-ban'-thah. 

Gardena,  garden  spot Gar-day'-nah. 

Goleta  point,  schooner  point.  .  .Go-lay'-tah. 

Graciosa,  graceful  G'^ah-see-o'-sah. 

Guadalupe,  a  name  Gwad-dah-loo'-pay. 

Hermesillo,  little  beauty  Er-mo-seel'-yo. 

Hornitos,  little  ovens  Hor-nee'-tos. 


483 

Name.  Meaning.  Pronunciation, 

Isleta,  little  island  Ees-lay'-ta. 

La  Canada,  the  valley,  glen.  ...Lab  Cahn-yah'-dah. 

Ladrillo,  brick   Lah-dreel'-yo. 

Laguna,  lagoon,  pond    Lab-goo'-nab. 

La  Joya,  tbe  jewel   Lab  Ho'-yab. 

La  Junta,  the  junction    Lab  Hun'-tah. 

La  r^Iesa,  tbe  talde-Iand Lab   May'-sah. 

La  Onda,  the  wave  Lab  Obn'-dab. 

La  Panza,  tbe  paunch   l.ali  Pantz'-ab. 

La  Patera,  tbe  goblet  Lab   Pah-tay'-rah. 

La  Punta,  the  point   Lab   Pun'-tab. 

Las    Animas,    souls    in    purga- 
tory     Las  Ah'-nee-mabs. 

Las  Casitas,  the  little  houses.. Labs   Cab-see'-tahs. 

Las  Cruces,  the  crosses Las  Crew'-ses. 

Las  Flores,  the  flov*'ers  Las  Flo'-res. 

I-as  Pasitas,  tbe  little  raisins.  .  .Las  Pab-see'-tahs. 

Las      Penasquitos,      the      smallLahs  Payn-ahs-kee'-tobs. 
cliffs    

Las  Vegas,  fertile  fields   Las  Vay'-gahs. 

Las  Virgenes,  the  virgins Labs  Vair-bay'-neys. 

Lerdo,  slow   Ler'-d(3. 

Linda  Rosa,  pretty  rose Leen'-dah  Ro'-sab. 

Linda  Vista,  beautiful  view. .  .Leen'-dah  Vis'-tab. 

Lobos,    wolves     Lo-bohs'. 

Loma  Alta,  high  hill   Lo'-mah   .Mil'-tah. 

Loma  Prieta,  black  bill   Lo'-mah   Prce-a'-tab. 

Lomas.    bills     ■  • Lo-mabs'. 

Los     Alamitos,     little     cotton- 
woods    .  •  • Lobs   Ab-lab-mec'-tos. 

Los  Alamos,  cotton  wood  trees.  Lobs  Ah'-lah-mos. 

Los  Berros,  tbe  water  crcoscs.Lohs  Bayr'-robs. 

Los  Cienegas,  the  marshes  . . .  .Lohs-See-ay'-nee-gahs. 


484 

Name.  Mcaiiinj^.  Pronunciation. 

Los  Coyotes,  the  prairie  wolvesLoli.s  Ko-yo'-tays. 

Los  Feliz,  tlie  liappy   Lohs  Fay-lees'. 

Los  Gatos,  the  cats  Lolis  Gah'-tos. 

Los  Nictos,  the  grandchildren. Lohs  Nee-a'-tos. 

Los  Olivos,  the  olive  trees.  ..  .Lohs  6-lee'-vos. 

Los    Palos    Vcrdes,    the    green 

trees    Lohs  Pah'-lohs  Ver-dase. 

Los  Perros,  the  dogs    ...••..  .Lohs  Payr-rohs. 

Los  Pueblos,  the  villages    ....Lohs  Poo-ay'-blos. 

Los  Valecitos,  the  little  val- 
leys     Lohs  Vahl-yay-cee'-tohs. 

Lugonia,  a  flower  Loo-go'-nee-ah. 

ATadera,  timber  wood    Mah-day'-rah. 

IManzana,  apple   Mahn-thah'-nah. 

Merced,  mercy    Afer-sed'. 

Mesa,  table,   table-land    ......  .May'-sah. 

Mesa  Encantada,  enchanted 
land    Alay'-sah    En-kan-tah'-dah. 

Mesquitc,  tree  of  that  name...  .Mes-quec'-tay.         (This      is 

far   more   commonly   pro- 
nounced mes-keet'.) 

Mira  Florcs.  flower  view   .  . .  .  .^lee-rah  Flo'-rays. 

Monserrate,  a  town  in  Spain 
and  a  ranch  near  San  Luis 
Rev     !Nfon-sayr-rah'-tey. 

^Tnntecito.   little   hill    Mon-tay-see'-to. 

Mnrrn.  tower  or  fortification.  .Mor'-ro   (r  strongly  trilled). 

Murrieta,  a  Spanish  family 
name     Moo-ree-ay'-tah. 

Nacion.  nation   Nah-see-6n'. 

Nuevo,   new    •  • Nway'-vo. 

Pajaro,  bird    Pah'-hah'-ro. 

Pampa,  plain    Pahm'-pah. 


48s 

Name.  Meaning.  Pronunciation. 

Paso    de    Robles,    pass    of    the 
oaks     Pah'-so-day  Ro'-bles. 

Pescadero,  fisherman Pays-kah-day'-ro. 

Picacho,    peak    Pee-kah'-cho. 

Pinacate,  pine  tree   Peen-a-ka'-tay. 

Pinde,  sweetened  corn  water.  .Peen'-day. 

Plumas,    feathers    Ploo'-mahs. 

Posa,  passing  bell    Poh'-zah. 

Posmo,  drone    Pohs'-mo. 

Potrero,   pasture ...Po-tray'-ro. 

Potrero  los  pinos,  pine  pasture.Po-tray'-ro  lohs  pee'-nos. 

Pozo,  a  well    Po'-so. 

Presidio,    garrison    Pray-see'-dee-o. 

Prietos,  black   (plural) Pree-ay'-tos. 

Providencia,  providence   Pro-vee-dayn'-see-ah. 

Pueblo,    village    Pway'-blo. 

Puente,  bridge   Pwen'-tay. 

Puerco,  a  hog,  hence  unclean. P\ver'-c(7i. 

Punta  de  la   Concepcion,   point Poon'-tah  day  lali  Kon-sayp- 
of   the   Conception    see'-on. 

Punta   de   la   Laguna,   point   of  Poon'-tah  day  lah  Lah-goo'- 
the  lake  nah. 

Punta  Gorda,  thick  point Poon'-tah    Gor'-dah. 

Purgatoire,    Purgatorio,   purga- 
tory     Poor-gah-to'-rio. 

Purisima,   immaculate    Poo-ree'-see-mah. 

Ranchito,  small  ranch   Rahn-chee'-to. 

Raton,  mouse   Rah-ton'. 

Redondo,    round    Ray-don'-do. 

Rincon,    corner    Rin-kon'. 

Rio,    river    Ree'-o. 

Rio  Vista,  river  view    Ree'-o  Vees'-tah. 

Rivera,   shore    Ree-vay'-rah. 


486 

Name.  Meaning.  Pronunciation. 

Kiililar,   oak   grove    Rolib'-Ialir. 

Rodeo,  cattle  ronnd-np   Roh-day-oli. 

Sacramento,    sacrament    Sah-krali-men'-to. 

Salinas,  salt  pits   Sah-lce'-nahs. 

San  Andres,  St.  Andrew Sahn  Ahn-dres'. 

San  Buena  Ventura,  St.  Bon- 
avenlure    (good  fortune) .  ..  .SahnBvvay'-nah  Ven-too'-rah 

San    Clemcnte,    St.    Clement. .  .Sahn  Klay-men'-tay. 

San  Diego,  St.  James  Sahn  Dee-ay'-go. 

San  Francisco,  St.  Francis. ..  .Sahn  Fran-sees'-ko. 

San  Jacinto,  St.  Hyacinth Sahn  Hah-seen'-to. 

San  Joaquin,  St.  Joachin Sahn  Hwah-keen'. 

San  Jose,  St.  Joseph  Sahn  Ho-say'. 

San  Luis  Obispo,  St.  Louis  the 
l)ishop   Sahn  Loo-ees'  O-bees'-po. 

San   Marcos,   Saint  Mark Sahn  Mar-kohs. 

San  Miguel,  St.   Michael Sahn  Mee-gell'  (hard  g.) 

.San  Pablo,  St.  Paul  .Sahn  Pah'-blo. 

San  Pedro,  St.  Peter Sahn  Pay'-dro. 

San  Rafael,   St.   Raphael Sahn  Rah-fah-ell'. 

Santa  Barbara,   St.   Barbara. .  .Sahn'-tah  Bar'-bah-rah. 

Santa  Catalina,  St.  Catherine.  .Sahn'-tah  Cah-tah-lee'-nah. 

Santa  Cruz,  holy  cross Sahn'-tah  Krooss'. 

Santa  Fe,  holy  faith   Sahn'-tah  Fay'. 

Santa  Gertrudes,  Saint  Ger- 
trude      Sahn'-tah  Hair-tru'-days. 

Santa  Maria,  Saint  ^Lary Sahn'tah  Mah-ree'-ah. 

Santa  Paula,  Saint  Pauline. ..  .Sahn'tah   Pau-lee'-nah. 

San<^H  Rosa,  St.  Rose   Sahn'-tah  Ro'-sah. 

Santa  Ynez,  St.  Inez   Sahn'-tah  E-ne'ss. 

Santa  Ysabel,   St.  Isabel    Sahn'-tah  E-sah-bell'. 

Santiago,    Saint  James    Sahn-tee-ah'-go. 

Saucelito,  little  willow   Sau-sav-lee'-to. 


487 

Name.  ^reaning.  Pronunciation. 

Savana,  vast  plain    (Sabana)  .  .Sah'-bah-nah. 

Sierra,  mountain  chain   See-er'-rah. 

Sierra   Madre,  mountain  range 

literally  mother  range   See-er'-rah   Mah'-dre. 

Sierra    Nevada,    snowy    range 

(saw-tooth)      See-er'-rah  Nay-vah'dah. 

Solano,  east  wind   Soh-lah'-no. 

Soledad,  solitude  So-lay-dad'     ((/    in    Spanish 

has  a  peculiarly  soft  sound 
like  th  in  the.) 

Tamalpais,   Tamal  Indians Tah-mahl-pais. 

Temecula,  Indian  name   Tay-may-coo'-lah. 

Tia  Juana,  Aunt  Jane  Tee'-ah  Hwah'-na. 

Todos  Santos,  all  saints  Toh-dohs  Sahn'-tohs. 

Tropico,   tropic    Tro-pce-ko. 

Valle,  valley  Vahl'-yay. 

Vallecito,  little  valley   Vahl-j^aj'-see'-to. 

Vallejo,  small  valley   Vahl'yay'-ho. 

Valle  Vista,  valley  view Vahl-yay  Vees'-tah. 

Vara,  pole  or  staff  (used  in 
early  Spanish  measure- 
ments)      Vah'-rah. 

Vaso,    glass    Vah'-soh. 

Ventura,    luck    Ven-too'-rah. 

Verde,    green    Ver'-day. 

Verdugo,  young  branch    Vayr-doo'-go. 

Vervain,   verbena    Vayr-vah'-een. 

Viejo,  old Vec-ay'-ho. 

Vista,  view   Vees'-tah. 

Ysidora,   Isidora    Yee-see-doh'-rah. 


488 

Northern  California, 


SOME  of  the  scenic  wonders  of  the  world  are  in  the 
Northern  or  Central  section  of  the  State.  Yosemite 
Valley  stands  alone  for  minj^led  beauty  and  sublim- 
ity ;  there  is  nowhere  in  Alps  or  Apenines  such  w  ild 
grandeur  as  may  be  seen  in  King's  River  Canyon  or  in  the 
Kern  River  Canyon  ;  nowhere  such  trees  as  are  found  in 
Mariposa  Grove  or  the  Giant  Forest  ;  nowhere  a  lake  so 
beautiful  as  Lake  Tahoe,  and  no  solitary  peak  anywhere 
finer  than  Mount  Shasta. 

And,  as  in  Southern  California,  the  productions  are 
unique  :  vast  orchards  of  prunes,  peaches,  cherries,  pears, 
figs,  oranges,  almonds,  apricots,  with  islands  of  asparagus, 
and  acres  and  miles  of  flower  farms,  and  hills  and  dells  full 
of  vineyards  as  any  part  of  France. 

The  publications  of  the  Southern  Pa.cific  will  show 
you  how  numerous  are  the  resorts  and  how  varied  the  in- 
dustries. Illustrated  Folders  are  reliable  guides  for  the 
visitor.  They  cover  all  the  famous  places,  and  the  Book- 
lets about  California  are  excellent  Handbooks  for  home- 
seekers  and  settlers.  The  Directory  for  Hotels  and 
Boarding-houses  will  be  useful.  Literature  free  of  Agents, 
of  G.  A.  Parkyens,  a.  G.  p.  A.,  261  South  Spring  Street, 
Los  Angeles,  or 

INFORMATION  BVREAV, 

613  Market  St..  Sa.n  Fra.ncisco 


48q 


THE 


LOS  ANGELES 
COLLEGE  OF 
FINE     ARTS 

is  situated  at  beautiful 
Garvanza.  It  is  a  fully 
equipped 

MODERN  ART  SCHOOL 
W.  L.  JuDSON,  Dean. 

The  Picture  Gallery  is 
open  to  visitors  on  Friday 
and    Sunday    afternoons. 


40O 


FREMONT     HOTEL, 


Cor.  FOURTH  and    OLIVE   STREETS,   LOS  ANGELES.  CAL. 


'3^^-' - 


The  newest  and  most  el ej^antly  appointed  Family  Hotel 
in  the  city.  Situated  two  blocks  from  Broadway,  on  an 
eminence  commanding  a  charming  vista  of  the  city,  and 
offering  to  its  patrons  the  benefits  of  purest  air,  prompt  and 
courteous  service,  and  a  cuisine  unequalled  in  points  of 
excellence  anywhere,  and  reasonable  rates. 

For  terais  address 

THOS.   PASCOE,   Proprietor. 


491 


RARE.    CURIOUS    OR    BEAUTIFUL. 


OUR      COLLECTION     REPRESENTS 
THE    WORK    OF    SIXTEEN    YEARS. 


3/3   SOUTH  SPRING   STREET,     LOS  ANGELES,    CAL. 


We  have  a  great  variety  of  fine  MISSION   and  INDIAN 
Photographs,  some  by  the  Writer  of  this  Guide  Book. 

ALSO    LANTERN    SLIDES. 


492 

WESNER, 

XTbc  Iphotoornpbcr, 

120    NORTH   SPRING   ST.,    near   FIRST, 
LOS  ANGELES,  GAL. 

I  can  personally  comraeud  Mr.  Wesner  as  a  faithful  and  conscien- 
tious photographic  artist  Almost  all  the  many  photographs  of  myself 
that  have  been  published  during  the  past  eight  years  were  made  by  him, 
and  I  can  truthfully  saj-  he  has  made  the  best  likenesses  of  all  the  artists 
for  whom  I  have  sat. 

He  makes  a  specialty  of  photographing  B.-\BIKS. 

Call  upon  him  and  have  your  photograph  made  in  the  clear,  pellucid 
atmosphere  of  Los  .\ngeles.     His  prices  are  very  reasonable. 

WESNER,  The  Photographer, 

120  North  Spring  St.,  near  First,  Los  Angeles,  Cal. 


A.  R.  Metcalfe,  President. 
Ernest  H.  May,  Vice-President. 


H.  I.  Stuart,  Cashier. 

S   F.  Johnson-.  Asst.  Cashier. 


(Lbt  Jtrst  Natinual  Sank, 

CAPITAL  $100,000 
SURPLUS  AND  PROFITS  $85,000. 


JJasallnta,  (Tal. 


DIRECTORS: 

H.  G.  BENNETT.  T.  EARLEY. 

A.  K.   MiQt'ILLING.       W.   R.  BARNES. 
ERNEST  H.  MAY.  H    C.    HOTAI-ING. 

A.  R.  METCALFE. 


"fc^riZH^f  PASADCNAQAL. 


493 

The  HoUeivbeck  Hotel, 

Corner    SECOND    and     SPRING    STREETS 

LOS     ANGELES. 


For  many  years  the  Hollenbeck  has  been  the  noted 
stopping  place  of  all  distinguished  travelers  and  visitors, 
and  while  newer  hotels  have  been  erected  this  has  not  lost 
one  particle  of  its  old-time  popularity. 

It  is  the  most  centrally  located  hotel  in  Los  Angeles, 
right  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  and  close  to  all  the  leading 
theaters,  churches,  etc.,  with  every  line  of  cars  for  both 
the  city  and  country  passing  within  one  block. 

It  has  never  before  attained  to  so  high  a  degree  of  suc- 
cess as  since  it  came  under  the  management  of  A.  C.  Bilicke 
&  Co.,  who  are  now  its  sole  proprietors. 

You  will  make  no  mistake  if  you  enter  the  'bus  at  any 
of  the  stations  and  ask  to  be  driven  to 

"The    Hollenbeck," 

Cor.  SECOND  &  SPRING  STS., 
LOS   ANCELES,   CAL. 

A.  C.  BILICKE  &  CO., 

PROPRIETORS. 


494 
T^WO     GFIEA.T    MOTELS. 

United  States  Hotel, 

BOSTON,    MASS. 

Broadway  Central  Hotel, 

667-677   BROADWAY,    NEW   YORK. 


He  who  commends  good  hotels  to  his  traveling  friends 
is  doing  them  a  great  kindness.  I  can  personally  commend 
both  the  United  States,  in  Boston,  and  the  Broadway 
Central,  in  New  York.  Both  are  historic  hotels,  ami  both 
were  bront^ht  to  their  present  high  state  of  perfection  by 
that  prince  of  hotel  keepers  and  most  royal  of  men,  Tilly 
Haynes,  the  well-beloved  of  all  American  travelers. 

The  United  States,  in  Boston,  is  located  within  two 
blocks  of  the  mammoth  South  Station,  so  that  one  may 
walk  to  it  in  a  few  minutes.  It  is  essentially  a  Home 
Hotel.  It  combines  all  the  conveniences  and  substantial 
comforts  of  a  pleasant  home,  free  alike  from  extravagant 
show  or  still  more  extravagant  charges.  It  is  conveniently 
located  to  the  business  centre,  churches  and  theatres,  with 
elevated  and  surface  cars  passing  the  door. 

The  Broadway  Central  is  exactly  the  same  to  New 
York.  All  the  Broadway  cars  pass  the  door,  and,  being 
ocated  in  the  heart  of  the  business  section  of  the  city, 
which  closes  at  six  o'clock,  it  is  absolutely  the  quietest 
hotel  in  the  city,  and  affords  opportunities  for  quiet  and 
sleep  and  rest  not  possible  in  the  up-town  hotels,  where 
noise  is  kept  up  until  the  small  hours  of  the  morning 

TILLY  HAYNES,  Proprietor 
United  States  Hotel,  Broadway  Central  Hotel, 

BOSTON.  NEW    YORK. 


495 


Santa  Barbara 


HAS  MORE  ATTRACTIVE  FEATURES 
AND  REQUIRES  MORE  TIME  TO 
VISIT  THE  DIFFERENT  POINTS  OF 
INTEREST  THAN  ANY  OTHER  SPOT 
IN  CALIFORNIA.  THE  ARLINGTON 
HOTEL  HAS  ACCOMMODATIONS 
FOR  FOUR  HUNDRED  GUESTS. 
WITH  FORTY  ADDITIONAL  BATH- 
ROOMS AND  NEW  PASSENGER  ELE- 
VATOR. IT  IS  THE  MOST  ATTRAC- 
TIVE AND  COMFORTABLE  HOTEL  IN 
THE  STATE.  THE  MANAGEMENT 
HAS  JUST  FINISHED  THE  BEST  GREEN 
TURF  GOLF  LINKS  IN  SOUTHERN 
CALIFORNIA,  FIVE  MINUTES'  STREET 
CAR   RIDE  FROM  THE  HOTEL.  ^  J- 


DESCRIPTIVE    BOOKLET    SENT    ON    APPLICATION    TO 

E.   P.  DUNN,    PROPRIETOR 

THE   ARLINGTON,   SANTA    BARBARA,  CAL. 


490 
NE^IV    BOOKS. 

The  Passenj^er  Ueparlniciil  of  Uic 

SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 

Has  just  issued  the  following  : 

Along  the  Coast, 

The  San  Joaquin  Valley, 

The  Sacramento  Valley. 

These  books  have  from  loo  to  130  pages  each,  are  fully 
illustrated,  and  are  careful  studies  of  the  great  Forest  and 
Farming  Regions  north  of  Tehachapi.  They  will  be  help- 
ful to  the  man  seeking 

A   HOME   IN   CALIFORNIA. 

Another  new  book  is  called 

The  New  Nevada, 

and  is  a  thoughtful  presentation  of  the 

AGRICULTURAL  WEALTH 

of  that  State,  specially  interesting  in  view  of  the  National 
Irrigation  Movement. 

There  are    Great   Opporltinitiej  in  fietiada. 

Free  of  Agents,  or  send  stamp  for  ])Ostage  to 

INFORMATION   BVREAV. 

613  Market  St  ,  SaLn  Francisco. 


497 


The  International  Colonizing  Company 
of  California, 

which  has  been  engaged  in  locating  colonies  since  October, 
1869,  and  assisted  in  locating  the  "RIVERSIDE"  Colony, 
"PASADENA,"  "ONTARIO,"  "POMONA,"  "RED- 
LANDS,"  "LOMPOC  COLONY,"  in  Santa  Babarba  Coun- 
ty; "THE  CENTRAL  CALIFORNIA  COLONY"  at  Fres- 
no, and  other  well  known  colonies,  has  determined  to  devote 
a  few  years  in  developing  the  great. 

CHOLAME    VALLEY,    SOUTHERN    CALIFORNIA. 

Estrella  Colony. — The  next  colony  tract  we  shall  offer 
the  public  located  in  Cholame  Valley,  is  the  well-known 
ESTRELLA  RANCH,  containing  about  32,000  acres. 

No  part  of  the  State  surpasses  it  in  raising  all  kinds  of 
grain,  walnuts  and  delicious  fruits.  The  rainfall  is  greater 
than  farther  south,  and  irrigation  is  almost  unknown.  No- 
where can  more  prosperous  farmers  be  found  than  in  this 
country,  and  scarcely  anywhere  such  diversity  of  production, 
all  paying.  It  proves  that  in  California,  as  well  as  else- 
where, all  the  farmer  needs  to  do  is  to  attend  to  business 
and  let  booms  alone  and  he  will  be  the  most  independent 
of  mortals. 

We  offer  the  first  settlers  land  in  this  colony  at  $15.00  to 
$20.00  per  acre — one-third  cash,  balance  in  one  or  two 
years. 

It  will  be  sub-divided  into  20  and  40  acre  farms,  and  its 
dairy  tracts  into  100  and  200  acre  tracts. 

The  soil  of  this  valley  is  unsurpassed  for  fertility  and  its 
climate  unequalled. 


498 

I'hc  Town  Silc. — In  laying  out  our  Town  Site  wc  shall 
adhere  to  our  old  established  rule  of  having  nothing  Ic- 
than  one  acre  lots — about  200x200  feet,  and  four  lots  in  n 
block.  These  lots  will  be  sold  at  the  very  low  price  of 
$25  per  lot,  each  lot  having  a  frontage  of  200  feet  on  two 
streets  or  avenues. 

One  of  the  main  objects  in  arranging  our  Town  Site  in 
this  way,  and  selling  the  lots  at  such  a  low  figure,  is  to  in- 
duce our  first  settlers  to  build  their  residences  in  the  town. 
thereby  creating  at  once  an  intelligent  settlement,  where 
churches,  schools,  town  hall  and  library  will  soon  be  built. 
We  arc  promised  a  first-class  country  hotel  capable  of  en- 
tertaining 100  guests,  and  it  will  no  doubt  be  patronized  by 
Eastern  Tourists,  who  may  be,  eventually,  induced  to  invest 
in  our  Colony  tract,  and  become  permanent  settlers. 

The  tract  of  land  is  located  near  Paso  Robles,  San  Luis 
Obispo  County,  on  the  main  line  of  the 

SOl'THERX    P.\CIFIC    RAILW.W, 

217  miles  south  of  San  Francisco,  265  miles  north  of  Los 
Angeles,  155  miles  north  of  Santa  Barbara.  Ten  miles 
from  railroad,  twenty-five  miles  from  the  ocean,  elevation 
T,ooo  feet  above  the  sea  level. 

This  property  is  located  near  PASO  ROBLES  HOT 
SPRINGS,  one  of  the  most  notable  health  resorts  in  Cali- 
fornia. 

Water  for  the  farms  and  watering  places  for  cattle  is 
piped  from  springs. 

The  EstrcUa  Rnn-  flows  through  this  property  the 
whole  year.  In  July  and  August  it  has  about  forty 
inches  of  water. 

To  the  first  100  settlers  we  shall  charge  $15.00  to  $20.00 
per  acre,  one-third  cash,  balance  in  cash  in  one  and  two 
years,  with  interest  at  6  per  cent,  per  annum. 


499 

Parties  desiring  to  locate  in  the 

"estrella  colony" 

can  get  full  particulars  by  addressing  our  Land  Commission- 
er. 

Hon.  Chauncey  M.  Depew,  United  States  Senator  from 
New  York  States,  says :  "We  found  ourselves  in  a  country 
of  magnificent  futures,  of  boundless  resources,  of  unex- 
ampled prospects.  Though  possessed  of  a  vocabulary  that 
had  never  before  staggered  when  confronted  by  the  neces- 
sities of  manifold  occasion,  I  find  the  English  language  too 
poor  to  portray  the  glories  of  California.  Here  is  a  country 
destined  to  drive  Italy  and  the  world  out  of  oranges,  lemons, 
olives,  prunes  and  wines.  Here  is  a  land  that  will  re- 
juvenate the  worn-out  pilgrim  from  the  East,  and  more. 
We  of  the  East  do  not  know  California  or  appreciate  the 
wonderful  future  that  is  before  it.  There  is  a  State  with  a 
population  of  a  million  and  a  half,  that  is  as  great  in  area 
as  France  with  its  35,000,000  people.  The  people  are  the 
most  prosperous  and  hospitable  in  the  world.  I  am  not 
speaking  of  cities,  but  all  through  California  you  see  no 
poverty.  Ten  acres  will  support  a  family,  I  was  told. 
Fruit  farming  is  the  way  the  land  is  utilized  to  achieve  such 
results. 

Can  you  do  better  than  to  follow  the  advice  of  Hon.  C. 
]\I.  Depew  and  Horace  Greeley?  We  think  not,  and  so  ask 
you  to  go  to  California,  and  do  not  locate  until  you  have 
been  in  the  Cholame  Valley,  and  have  talked  with  East- 
ern people  who  have  located  there.  They  go  from  every 
State  in  the  East  and  will  not  return. 

California  is  certainly  the  Slate  where  the  greatest  amount 
of  comfort  may  be  obtained.  This  is  due  In  Nature,  which 
has  given  us  a  summer  climate  in  the  winter  and  a  de- 
lightful year.     l\[r.  E.  O,   McCormick,  Traffic  INIanager  of 


500 

(Ik'  Suiillicni  Pacific  Railroad  Company,  tells  us  that  full 
returns  to  date  show  that  during  last  September  and  Octo- 
ber 25,000  people  took  advantage  of  the  cheap  rate  of  fare 
to  go  to  California.     There  is  plenty  of  room  for  you. 

Begin  to  pack  up  now  and  be  ready  to  take  advantage  of 
Ihc  special  railway  rates.  You  will  never  have  an  oppor- 
tunity to  go  there  any  cheaper,  and  just  think  what  the 
change  will  be  from  the  cold  winds  of  the  East  to  the  mild 
climate,  green  fields  and  blooming  flowers  of  this  golden 
State. 

Cheap  rates  of  fare  from  the  East  to  California  are  now 
in  force. 

Look  at  these  figures  and  see  how  cheaply  you  can  reach 
this  land  of  sunshine  and  promise: 

From  Chicago    $33-0O 

From  Omaha    25.00 

From   Kansas   City 25.00 

From    New    York 50.00 

"Remember  the  Maine"  thing  is  to  secure  a  home  in  a 
first-class  community  where  good  ideas  prevail,  and  at  the 
same  time  where  you  can  make  money. 

Two  hundred  cloudless  days  in  a  year  is  the  record  of 
the  Heart  of  California.  What  more  do  you  want?  Here 
is  a  fine  climate,  equalled  only  by  that  of  Italy,  where  you 
may  attain  health,  wealth  and  happiness. 

The  ample  rainfall  in  this  section  assures  large  crops. 
Well  authenticated  instances  are  recorded  of  a  yield  of  100 
l)ushcls  of  grain  per  acre;  the  average  yield  for  bottom  land 
being  about  sixty  bushels,  and  for  rolling  land  twenty-five 
to  forty  bushels. 

Beans  are  grown  extensively  on  the  bottom  lands  produc- 
ing crops  of  an  average  value  of  $30  to  $40  per  acre.    Sugar 


501 

beets  are  also  grown  on  the  richer  land,  yielding  a  hand- 
some profit. 

Apples,  walnuts  and  olher  orchard  trees  thrive  along  the 
coast  and  provide  income.  Some  of  the  finest  apples  and 
walnuts  grown  in  California  are  produced  there. 

Fodders  for  dairy  stock  produce  enormous  crops.  Sixty 
tons  of  pumpkins  were  produced  on  a  single  acre  on  the 
E.  W.  Steele  ranch ;  twenty-five  tons  of  green  fodder  corn 
were  grown  on  a  single  acre  of  the  same  ranch ;  stock  beets 
and  other  root  crops  produced  as  heavily. 

Onions  and  potatoes  are  also  very  profitable,  1,200  bushels 
to  the  acre  has  been  an  authenticated  record  of  onions. 

Berries. — Berry  raising  is  a  very  profitable  business,  and 
the  canyons  of  San  Luis  Obispo  County  are  dotted  with 
small  farms  devoted  almost  exclusively  to  the  raising"  of 
berries.  Strawberries,  loganberries,  blackberries  and  dew- 
berries thrive  well,  and  the  annual  yield  of  a  small  patch 
of  ground  is  almost  beyond  belief. 

J.  G.  Tatjes,  of  Davis  Canyon,  says  that  during  1901  one- 
half  an  acre  of  strawberries  produced  8,500  three-quarter 
pound  baskets  of  berries,  for  which  he  received  $450 — a 
practical  demonstration  of  what  can  be  done  there. 

Another  berry  raiser  told  the  writer  that  from  one-quar- 
ter of  an  acre  of  raspberries  he  cleared  $275  in  one  season 
from  plants  not  more  than  nine  months  old.  These  are 
not  theories,  but  facts. 

Poultry  Raising. — There  being  a  ready  market  for  poul- 
try and  eggs  there  can  be  no  question  as  to  the  outcome  of 
a  poultry  farm  established  there,  if  properly  conducted. 

G.  W.  Long,  who  owns  a  poultry  farm  about  a  mile  from 
San  Luis  Obispo,  has  proved  the  enterprise  a  paj'ing  prop- 
osition right  from  the  start.  Last  year  he  sold  $300  worth 
of  eggs  alone   from  about  350  hens,   at  the  same  time  in- 


S02 

creasing  his  slock  lo  over  400  liens.  In  addition  to  this 
he  sold  over  $100  worth  of  poultry  for  tahlc  use.  Nu- 
merous other  instances  might  he  cited  to  prove  that  a  prop- 
erly managed  poultry  farm  will  pay  there,  and  pay  well. 

Truck  Gardening. — Some  of  the  finest  garden  land  in  the 
State  is  to  be  found  near  Paso  Robles.  The  rich  alluvial 
soil  of  the  bottom  lands  that  extend  for  miles  between  San 
Luis  Obispo  and  Sycamore  Springs  is  especially  adapted  to 
vegetables. 

Potatoes,  beans,  onions,  cal)I)agc  and  tomatoes  yield  im- 
mense crops.  The  average  output  of  an  acre  of  potatoes 
may  ])c  placed  at  lOO  sacks,  and  there  are  seasons  when 
much  larger  crops  may  be  raised.  Onions  produce  from 
50  to  100  sacks  to  the  acre,  and  grow  to  be  very  large  size. 
In  the  bottom  lands  tomatoes  are  planted  about  ten  feet 
apart,  and  even  then  the  vines  literally  cover  the  ground. 
From  500  to  600  pounds  of  tomatoes  are  often  picked  from 
one  vine.  Cabbages  grow  to  an  enormous  size  and  will 
average  thirty-five  pounds,  and  often  tip  the  scales  at  fifty 
pounds.    Watermelons  are  also  produced  in  large  quantities. 

Fruit  Raising. — The  county  abounds  in  good  fruit-grow- 
ing land,  and  all  orchard  fruits  may  be  successfully  grown. 
The  immense  shipment  of  all  kinds  of  fruit  to  all  parts  of 
the  State  by  local  orchardists  demonstrates  the  possibilities 
of  this  section  in  fruit  raising,  and  it  is  only  a  matter  of 
time  when  the  orchard  will  be  as  common  as  the  grain  field 
in  this  county. 

Lemons  and  grapes  are  grown  successfully  in  the  foot- 
hills near  the  City  of  San  Luis  Obispo.  The  Dallidet  vine- 
yard, recently  divided  into  lots,  and  now  one  of  the  best 
residence  parts  of  the  city,  was  for  years  noted  for  its  im- 
mense annual  yield  of  grapes. 

Bee  Culture. — ^Ir.  James   M.   Brown,  a  resident  of  See 


503 

Can3'on  during  the  past  nine  j-ears,  liaving  been  engaged  in 
bee  culture  for  twenty  years,  may  be  considered  an  au- 
thority on  the  subject,  and  kindly  contributes  the  following 
information : 

"What  do  you  consider  the  annual  yield  of  a  colony?" 

"There  is  the  same  difference  between  colonies  as  be- 
tween individuals.  One  hive  might  only  produce  fifty 
pounds,  and  another  showing  more  thrift  and  governed 
by  a  better  queen  would  produce  from  300  to  400  pounds." 

"Where  did  you  first  raise  bees  ?" 

"In  the  State  of  Ohio." 

"What  comparison  do  you  make  between  Ohio  and  Cal- 
ifornia for  bee  culture?" 

"California,  or  this  part  of  it,  in  its  best  seasons  will  pro- 
duce from  its  flora  from  two  to  three  times  more  honey 
per  annum." 

"What  is  an  average  j'ield?" 

"Be  culture  in  California  is  very  much  like  stock  raising 
and  farming,  some  years  being  better  than  others.  With 
skill  and  proper  attention  the  average  yield  in  good  years 
would  be  about  100  pounds  per  hive  per  annum." 

"What  is  the  average  price  of  honey?" 

"About  5  cents  per  pound  for  extracted  honey  and  honey 
in  comb  10  cents  per  pound." 

"Was  last  year's  yield  good? 

"From  170  colonies  I  had  fourteen  tons  of  extracted 
honey,  besides  several  hundred  pounds  of  honey  in  comb." 

"What  is  the  value  of  a  colony  in  good  condition?" 

"About  $4." 

"How  many  colonies  can  one  man  properly  care  for?" 

"In  an  average  year  about  200  colonies." 

Dairying. — This  section  has  peculiar  advantages  for  dairy- 
ing not  enjoyed  by  any  other  county  of  the  State.     It  has 


504 

good  climate,  natural  grass  feed  and  pure  water,  and,  situ- 
ated as  it  is  about  half-way  between  San  Francisco  and 
Los  Angeles,  it  commands  the  very  best  prices  for  all  its 
products,  and  by  its  superior  shipping  facilities,  either  by 
rail  or  steamer,  via  Port  Harford,  has  not  only  choice  of 
markets,  but  is  assured  of  the  very  largest  net  returns  to 
the  producer. 

The  following  from  one  of  our  dairymen,  Mr.  Peter 
Tognazzini,  giving  his  experience  from  a  lOO-cow  dairy; 
Income  from  butter  sold,  $3,000;  hogs  sold,  raised  from 
skim  milk,  etc.,  $700.00;  receipts  from  calves  sold  $1,000.00; 
making  a  total  of  $4,700.00.  Total  expense,  including  labor, 
provisions  and  allowing  for  rent  of  land,  together  with  in- 
cidentals, $1,700.00,  leaving  a  net  profit  of  $3,000.00." 

"Is  this  not  an  exceptional  case?" 

"No;  we  can  refer  you  to  many.  Louis  and  Joe  Corvalli 
leased  for  last  season  eighty  cows,  and  rented  the  pasture 
land.  After  paying  all  obligations  they  had  for  their  labor 
the  handsome  profit  of  $1,600.  They  are  both  young  men, 
aged  twenty-seven  respectively." 

"We  can  give  the  names  of  many  who  began  as  wage 
workers  in  this  county  and  to-day  are  worth  from  $50,000 
to  $150,000." 

Cheese  Making  is  also  a  very  profitable  industry,  as  will 
be  seen  by  reading  the  following:  Mr.  Patrick  O'GDnnor, 
of  Los  Osos,  a  few  miles  north  of  San  Luis  Obispo,  has  for 
the  past  thirty  years  been  principally  engaged  in  cheese 
making.  To-day  he  is  one  of  our  well-to-do  citizens,  having 
acquired  a  sufficient  competency  on  which  to  retire.  His 
son  has  succeeded  him,  and  is  carrying  on  the  business. 
During  last  summer  the  average  dailj'  production  was  two- 
and  one-half  pounds  of  cheese  per  cow.  Thirty  cents  per 
day,  $9  per  month,  $54  for  the  season  of  six  months. 


505 

This  is  but  one  of  many  instances  of  what  has  been  done 
and  is  being  done  in  this  most  favored  section  for  cheese 
making. 

In  Conclusion. — To  enumerate  all  the  advantages  that 
California  in  general,  and  this  tract  of  land  in  particular, 
offers  to  the  industrious  farmer  and  horticulturist,  would 
occup}^  too  much  space,  ^^"e  may,  however,  select  a  few 
of  the  more  prominent  ones,  among  which  are,  a  virgin  soil, 
a  climate  of  perpetual  summer  and  perfect  healthfulness,  an 
abundance  of  water,  bountiful  crops  and  a  harvest  season 
of  five  months'  duration,  in  which  the  grain,  hay  and  other 
crops  may  be  left  in  the  field  without  fear  of  a  drop  of  rain 
to  injure  them.  Two  crops  a  year,  and  no  failure  of  crops, 
and  finally,  a  variety  of  crops  such  as  cannot  be  grown  any- 
where else  in  the  United  States. 

Parties  going  to  examine  this  property  must  not  expect 
to  find  a  country  covered  with  cultivated  farms,  oranges, 
lemons,  figs  and  almond  groves  in  every  direction,  and  na- 
ture revelling  in  a  growth  of  tropical  luxuriance,  for  direct- 
ly the  reverse  of  this  will  be  found  to  be  the  case.  They 
should  remember  that  it  is  but  recently  that  the  country 
has  been  reclaimed  from  the  thriftless  use  of  the  cattle  and 
sheep  owner,  and  that  it  is  only  within  one  year  that  a  rail- 
way has  been  constructed  to  enable  the  farmer  to  market 
his  crop. 

Further  information  may  be  had  by  applying  to 

WILLIAM  H.  MARTIN, 

71   Broadway,  N.  Y.  City. 

Large  Tracts  for  Sale. — We  have  for  sale  in  Southern 
California  an  entire  estate  of  32,000  acres,  rich  land,  all 
fenced  and  cross  fenced ;  good  stream  of  water  runs  through 


So6 

llic  center  of  property.  Fifteen  farms,  all  provided  with 
(lowing  water,  dwellings,  barns  and  granaries.  Ten  miles 
from  railroad,  25  miles  from  ocean;  elevation  1,000  feet 
above  sea  level,  climatfe  unexcelled.  Average  income, 
$30,000. 

Price,  including  2,000  head  of  graded  cattle,  20  saddle, 
buggy  and  draft  horses,  250  hogs  and  sundry  agricultural 
implements,  $300,000 — easy  terms. 

This  property  is  located  near  Paso  Robles  Hot  Springs, 
one  of  the  most  notable  health  resorts  in  California. 

Water  for  farms  and  watering  places  for  cattle  is  piped 
from  springs.  The  Estrella  River  flows  through  this  prop- 
erty the  whole  j'ear.  In  July  and  August  it  has  about  40 
inches  of  water. 

Also  in  San  Luis  Obispo  County,  8,000  acres,  well  im- 
proved and  watered,  $10  per  acre. 

Also  in  same  county,  4,000  acres,  well  improved,  at  $6 
per  acre. 

Also  in  same  county,  3,500  acres,  well  improved,  $30,000. 
Easy  terms. 

Ail  the  foregoing  good  for  stock  and  excellent  for  fruits 
and  grapes. 

U.  S.  Weather  Bureau. — The  following  tables  are  from 
the  published  reports  of  the  U.  S.  Weather  Bureau.  Five 
localities  are  taken  as  fair  representatives  of  the  State  south 
of  San  Francisco: 

AVER.VCE   TEMPERATURE   FOR    SIX    MONTHS. 

Average.          Fresno.  S.  F.  S.  L.  Ob'o.  Los.  Aug.  San  Di. 

3  winter  mos..4S     87  56    65      6^    29      64     72      63    28 

3  spring  mos..  .74    51  60    50      69    38      66    29      63     72 

6  months 64    69  58    08      66    34      65     51      63    60 

Comparative  records  of  the  mean  of  maximum  and  mini- 


507 

imim  temperatures  of  the  six  coldest  months  of  the  year  at 
tlie  most  famous  resorts  of  llic  world: 

Locality  and  Country.  Deg.  Fahr. 

San  Luis  Obispo,  California   56.15 

City  of  Mexico,  INIe.xico •  •  .  .56.03 

City  of  Lisbon,   Portugal    5470 

City  of  San  Remo,  Italy  •  ■ 53.80 

City  of  Mentone,  France  53-21 

City  of  Nice,  Italy 48.45 

Rainy  Days,  30. 

Cloudy  Days,  60. 

Partly  Cloudy  Days,  40. 

Clear  Days,  235. 

Southern  California  is  above  everything  the  land  of  out 
of  doors,  having  more  fine  days  in  the  year  than  any  other 
country  where  there  is  rain  enough  to  permit  the  highest 
degree  of  cultivation. 


INDEX  OF  CHAPTERS. 

CHAPTER  PACK 

Inlrodiiction     7 

I.     Southern    California    9 

II.     General  History  of  Southern  California.  .  15 

III.  The  Missions  of  Southern  California 65 

IV.  Topographical  Names  and  Their  Origin..  98 
V.     The    Story    of    Ramona :    Its    Scenes    and 

How  to  Reach  Them 114 

VI.     The  Indians  of  Southern  California 117 

VII.     Historic    Landmarks   and    How    to   Reach 

Them    120 

A'lir.     The  Seven  Counties  of  Southern  Califor- 
nia       126 

IX.     Los  Angeles — the  Metropolis  of  Southern 

California    137 

X.     The    Cawston    Ostrich    Farm 197 

XL     The   Mount   Lowe   Railway 205 

XII.     Santa  Catalina  Island 210 

XIII.  The  Climate  of  Southern  California 220 

XIV.  Irrigation    in    Southern    California 227 

XV.     Experimental      Agricidture     in      Southern 

California    232 

XVI.     Education  in   Snulheru   California 234 

XVII.     Southern  California  .\rtists 237 

XVIIL     The  Wild  Flowers  of  Southern  California.  241 

XIX.     Southern   California   for  the   Sportsman..  244 

XX.     The  Ornithologist  in  Southern  California.  252 

XXL     l)ri\-ing  in    Southern    California 25S 

XXTI.     Pelrolcum    in    Southern    California — Cali- 
fornia   Mineral     Products 260 


CHArTKK  I'AGE 

XXIir.     ]>ccs  for   Prrifit  in   Soiitliorn   California...   265 

XXTV.     A  Few  Minor  Industries 269 

XXV.     From   the   Colorado   River   to   the    Pacific 

Ocean  on  the  Sontlicrn  Pacific 282 

XXVI.     Santa   Monica    315 

XX\'II.     From    Los    Angeles    over    the    Tehachepi 

Mountains  on  the  Southern  Pacific.  .  .31H 
XX\'[1I.     I'>om  Los   Angeles  to  Santa   Barbara  on 

the    Southern    Pacific 327 

XXIX.     Santa    Barbara    341 

XXX.     From  Los  Angeles  to  San   Pedro  on  the 

Southern    Pacific    349 

XXXI.     From  Los  Angeles  to  Whittier,  Santa  Ana 

and  Tustin  on  the  Southern  Pacific. .  3S5 
XXXII.     From  the  Needles  to  San  Bernardino  on 

the    Santa    Fe    Railway 364 

XXX in.     Over  the  Kite-shaped  Track  on  the  Santa 

Fe   Route    378 

XXXIV.     On   the   Surf  Line    (Santa   Fe)    from   Los 

Angeles    to   San   Diego 416 

XXXV.     San   Diego  and   Coronado 426 

XXXVI.     Tlic  Temecula  and   San  Jacinto  Branches 

of  the  Santa  Fe  Railway 442 

XXX\'II.     From    Los    Angeles    to    Redondo    on    the 

Santa    Fe    456 

XXXVIII.  The  Los  Angeles,  San  Pedro  and  Salt 
Lake  Railwaj'  to  Glendale.  Long 
Beach.   San   Pedro  and   Pasadena....  460 

XXXIX.     The  Disadvantages    476 

XL.     Spanish  Names,  Their  Meaning  and  Pro- 
nunciation     480 


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